Soil for a greenhouse: the basics of soil preparation. Parameters for yield: soil temperature in the greenhouse What to lay the soil on for the greenhouse

How to prepare soil for greenhouses

In some areas it is impossible to do without greenhouses. It is important not only to build a greenhouse correctly, but also to understand what kind of soil is needed for it. You can buy ready-made soil mixture, but it is much more practical to make it yourself.

What to make soil for greenhouses from

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The soil for greenhouses needs to be updated annually.

Soil composition may vary. A lot here depends on what crop you plant in the greenhouse. For greenhouse soil the following are used:

Peat. Usually lowland. Its share can vary from 50 to 100%. It is an excellent antiseptic, creates an optimal temperature for the roots, absorbs moisture well and retains it in the soil. However, this component can compact and oxidize the earth. Therefore, it is recommended to add lime to it.
Composts. Their task is additional heating of greenhouse soil. They can have a different base: bird droppings, cow manure in its pure form or with the addition of straw.
River sand. This component is especially necessary when growing tomatoes. It reduces the acidity of the soil and gives it the necessary looseness. In addition, sand contains silicon, which affects the quality of the crop.
Wood waste. Typically sawdust or bark is used. They saturate the soil with carbon dioxide, increase looseness and breathability. But fresh sawdust cannot be taken. They contain a large amount of resins that can damage plant roots.
Clay. It compacts the soil a little, but increases its ability to absorb and retain nutrients.

If you decide to use purchased soil mixtures, do not forget: you need to update the soil every year to ensure high yields.

Soil preparation

First of all, you need to start forming the beds. To do this, you need to prepare a base that is laid under the ground. Leaves and branches will do. Sometimes straw and cardboard are added. When rotting, these substances release the heat necessary for the soil. Then the grass is laid. It is a source of nitrogen and retains moisture. Water the mixture with warm water and pour out the soil, carefully leveling it.

A properly composed soil mixture and adherence to preparation and cultivation technology are the key to a rich and early harvest.

Every gardener should know what kind of soil certain plants need. Of course, soil for a greenhouse can be purchased ready-made if you go to any specialized store. The finished soil contains all the components that are important for plants and crops. But such a purchase is quite expensive and not available to every summer resident, especially when the greenhouse has a large area. Most often, site owners try to prepare soil for a greenhouse with their own hands. We will talk about the types of soil and the rules for its preparation in this article.

When growing vegetables and other plants in a greenhouse, every summer resident should know some features and nuances.

Mixtures such as peat and peat-humus are not suitable for greenhouse soil. For mature plants, compositions in which peat can be one of the components are suitable;
The use of ready-made compounds in a greenhouse is an impractical solution, due to the low return on future harvest of such large expenses for the purchase of land. The correct and profitable option is to prepare the soil for the greenhouse yourself;
When using garden soil in a greenhouse, one should not forget about the need to fertilize the soil, which is characterized by rapid depletion;
It is important to remember that soil for greenhouse farming must be renewed periodically, usually once every 2 years. This is explained by the fact that repeated use of soil in a greenhouse over time leads to the loss of its beneficial properties, for the restoration of which fertilizers alone are not enough.

What are the types of mixtures by type and composition?

Land for a greenhouse can be compost, manure, leaf or turf.

Each type of soil differs in composition and purpose. So, for tomatoes you will need turf-type soil, a large proportion of the composition of which is occupied by field soil. Unlike tomatoes, cucumbers will produce more yield on compost soil, which contains peat, humus and turf components.

To determine the exact composition of the soil, you need to know what crops and plants will be grown on it.

Before preparing the soil for a greenhouse structure, you should familiarize yourself with the functions of each component of the greenhouse mixture. The components of the soil can be the following elements:

Peat. Peat is characterized by such properties as high moisture absorption and the ability to retain it over a long period of time. Such features of peat make it possible to maintain the optimal temperature level of greenhouse soil. Peat also has excellent antiseptic properties. In the soil for a greenhouse, peat can occupy a share of 50 to 90%. Due to the increased oxidability inherent in the peat element, it can be used in combination with another element, such as lime;
Compost. As for useful substances, it, like humus, is rich and saturated with them. This type of soil can be obtained through a process such as humus of organic substances. Resembling peat, compost has the ability to absorb moisture well and allow air to pass through. Such properties are aimed at structural improvement of the soil in the greenhouse and increasing its fertility;
Humus. To obtain such a natural product as humus in a greenhouse, you will need decomposed manure;
Soil from the garden. Its function is to ensure the balance of minerals, as well as stabilize acid levels;
River sand. Its functions: reducing the acid level of the soil and increasing soil looseness. According to the recommendations of experts, river sand should be used in combination with peat. Due to the presence of silicon in the composition, which has a beneficial effect on the level of productivity, river sand becomes necessary for tomatoes;
Wood-sawdust component. Due to the content of a large number of useful substances, it perfectly nourishes the soil. The function of sawdust is aimed at increasing soil looseness, as well as stabilizing temperature and such indicators as humidity;
Straw. The main task of this element is to add carbon dioxide and nitric acid to the soil.

The soil for a greenhouse is divided into light soil (among the constituent elements there is peat, compost or manure and deciduous soil), medium (the composition includes manure, turf, sand and peat) and heavy (turf with the addition of sand). Each gardener, in accordance with his preferences and needs, can change the ratio in the mixture.

What is needed to prepare the soil in autumn and spring?

Complete replacement of soil every two years is not an affordable procedure for every site owner.

This event requires a lot of time and money. This problem can be solved by seasonally preparing the soil in a greenhouse structure, namely in spring and autumn.

The beginning of autumn soil preparation will be the end of the harvest period. To carry out this procedure, you must go through the following stages of work:

Cleaning the soil from weeds and various roots;
Removing the top soil layer, the thickness of which should be at least 5 cm;
Digging the soil with a shovel. This must be done to remove mole cricket larvae;
Uniformly filling the greenhouse with new soil, which then requires watering (up to 8 liters of water will be required per 1 sq.m.);
Carrying out disinfection procedures for the greenhouse and soil. Alternatively, you can use sulfur bombs;
Ventilate the greenhouse and thoroughly wash its walls using ordinary water;
Fertilizing the soil with humus soil, sprinkling with ash and covering with straw material.

After the snow melts, spring soil preparation begins. First, the straw is removed, then the soil is watered with a special solution containing lime and water. To increase soil fertility, certain mixtures will be required to cover the area of the greenhouse structure. Such mixtures may include turf, sawdust, peat and compost. Next you need to start creating beds, which are then fertilized. Before planting plants and crops, it is recommended to treat the beds using liquid mullein.

The most profitable option when preparing the soil in a greenhouse will be compost prepared by yourself. If you take good care of the soil in a timely manner, you will be guaranteed a high harvest.

Preparing soil in a greenhouse plays an important role in obtaining a rich harvest. How and when should you prepare the soil for a greenhouse? How to get rid of pests? Warming up the greenhouse with manure in early spring, procedure. Which manure or others and at what time is it better to use? So, how to properly prepare the soil in a greenhouse or greenhouse, read the article.
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Preparing soil in a greenhouse

Autumn work, before frost

The soil in the greenhouse also needs to be prepared for the onset of frost. It is necessary to remove the soil from the beds from the greenhouse and scatter them in a layer of 60-80 centimeters. Then humus is added to the greenhouse in a layer of 15-20 centimeters. If the soil is not fertile, fertilizers are added to it and then also added to the greenhouse. At the end, you can spread mulch on the beds.

After the greenhouse survives the frost, by the time the plants grow there will be fertile and soft soil ready for planting.

How to get rid of a mole cricket. Greenhouse disinfection

Unfortunately, it is rare to find humus without mole crickets, so it is better to immediately get rid of this pest by spreading the treated seeds in the greenhouse a couple of days before the dive.

If the same crops are grown in a greenhouse, for example tomatoes, most likely various pests of these particular vegetables have already appeared in the soil. Therefore, before planting seedlings, it is worth spilling the soil with a hot (about 60 ° C) solution of potassium permanganate at the rate of 1 gram per 10 liters of water.

It is necessary to disinfect not only the soil, but also the greenhouse itself. To do this, all wooden structures are washed with copper sulfate, which destroys fungi, lichens and moss, and after a week they are coated with bleach.

To obtain the treatment agent, 400 grams of bleach are infused in 12 liters of water for 2-4 hours. Then the liquid is drained and the sediment is used for coating. If in the summer the greenhouse plants suffered any disease (for example, tomatoes suffered from brown spot), greenhouse structures and glass should additionally be sprayed with foundationazole or oxychome.

Warming up the greenhouse in early spring, preparing the soil

If the winter was harsh, with severe frosts, but you plan to use the greenhouse for planting in early spring, you need to start the process of its self-heating. To do this, after the snow melts, the ground is poured with plenty of hot water. And after a few days you can start planting!

But you can get the first greens in early spring or plant seedlings of cold-resistant crops in a greenhouse not only with the help of hot water. The soil can be heated in the tried and tested old-fashioned way - using biofuel or adding organic matter. This method can be used by those summer residents who have the opportunity to purchase fresh manure in early spring. The volume of manure applied should be 1/4 of the volume of the entire greenhouse soil. For example, a standard plot with two greenhouses and four greenhouses will require about half of KAMAZ manure.

Horse manure produces the optimal amount of heat in cold climates. In addition, it warms up the fastest. Pig manure, as well as rabbit and sheep manure, are not suitable for heating greenhouses - it is too hot for greenhouse plants.

How to prepare warming soil

So, preparing warming soil will require the following steps.

In the fall, organic residues are added to the greenhouse. This includes straw, grass clippings, plant tops, leaves and kitchen waste. This is necessary to make the soil looser and to allow the manure to burn in the spring.
In autumn and spring you need to add sawdust to the greenhouse. Thanks to them, the soil becomes loose, and nitrogen from fresh manure is absorbed. You need as much sawdust as manure was added to the greenhouse - the more manure, the more sawdust.
Lime is also added in the fall to normalize acidity, since organic residues during the decay process contribute to soil oxidation.
In the spring, fresh manure is brought into the greenhouse. This is the main source of heat and supplier of nutrients for future plants. If you do not add plant residues, the manure will not heat up very much. Therefore, it should be mixed with straw, sawdust and leaves.
In the spring, soil is poured into the greenhouse.
Ash is poured on top of the ground.
Mineral fertilizers are also scattered on top of the ground.

In order for all the above components to perform their warming function, it is necessary to prepare a “pie” from them. Tops and grass are laid as the bottom layer, straw and leaves are placed on top of them, then lime and sawdust. These components should be added to the greenhouse in the fall. In the spring, manure is scattered on top and sawdust is sprinkled on it. Using a fork, mix the ingredients. Thanks to mixing, the organic matter subsequently begins to overheat. Then the entire composition is poured generously with hot water. This speeds up the warming process.

After this, all components are covered with a layer of earth (about 25 centimeters), sprinkled with ash (1 cup per square meter), and complex mineral fertilizers, such as Nitrophoska, are added, and the entire bed is loosened. This is followed by another spill of hot water - and the soil is covered with film. In just a week the ground will be warm enough to begin planting.

What can be used instead of manure

If you couldn’t find fresh manure in early spring, you can try to do without it.

fertilizing soil in a greenhouse

In this case use:

spruce branches,
thin branches,
leaves from bath brooms,
hay,
chopped reeds,
green manure - in detail,
seaweed,
sawdust,
bark,
pond and river silt,
urea,
land,
lime,
ash,
mineral fertilizers.

All components are added in a certain sequence:

the bottom layer consists of large and long-rotting branches, brooms, spruce branches, and reeds;
then the following components are alternated and laid in thin layers;
urea and sawdust are added together (200 grams of urea per 3 buckets of sawdust);
then follows lime, the volume of which depends on the amount of leaves and sawdust;
sludge is used only for acidic soil;
the top layer consists of soil, ash and mineral fertilizers.

All layers, with the exception of ash, soil and mineral fertilizers, are applied in the fall, and these components in the spring.

The heating soil should not be prepared too early, otherwise it will not warm up to the desired temperature.

Some of the biofuel can be stored next to the greenhouse for freezing for the winter. To warm up all the components in the spring, you will need to cover them with double film and, as they thaw, lay them out in a greenhouse or greenhouse.

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Disinfection of the soil allows you to protect plants from diseases and. Some gardeners naively believe that during winter frosts all harmful microorganisms die. This is wrong.

Bacteria and fungi easily survive low temperatures, and in the spring they wake up and continue to develop intensively, causing irreparable damage to delicate greenhouse crops. So how to treat a greenhouse after winter?

Disinfection Disinfection of the greenhouse in the spring should minimize the risk of disease, but not damage the quality of the product.

Bleach treatment

Chloride of lime is used both in the fall, immediately after harvest, and in the spring.

This is one of the proven methods. In the fall, the soil for the greenhouse can be thoroughly shed with a concentrated solution of lime, but In spring you only need to spray lightly so that the composition does not harm the growth of future plants.

You need to dilute 400 g of lime in 10 liters of water and let it brew for 4 hours. After this, the resulting weak solution should be poured into a spray bottle for spraying the soil, and the thick sediment should be applied to the ceiling and walls of the greenhouse.

Bleach relieves:

black leg;
keels;
root-knot nematode;
late blight;
white rot.

Sulfur treatment

Fumigation of the greenhouse with sulfur– a common way to combat harmful microorganisms. As a result of the combustion of sulfur, oxides of sulfuric and sulfurous acids are released, which effectively fight bacteria. The only drawback of this method is that the resulting sulfur dioxide may not completely evaporate: it will remain in the soil and pass into the fruits of planted plants.

There are two ways to process sulfur:

Burning sulfur crystals. To treat 1 m3 of greenhouse you need to take 50–150 g of sulfur (depending on the number of pests last year). The crystals should be placed on metal trays, placed in different corners of the greenhouse, and then set on fire.

Use of special sulfur “checkers”. They need to be placed in the corners of the greenhouse and lit.

Important! Both methods require compliance with simple security measures. Fumigation must be carried out by a person wearing a gas mask and protective gloves. After lighting crystals or “checkers”, you cannot be in the greenhouse.

In the fumigated room, you need to maintain a low temperature - 10–15ºС. After treatment, the greenhouse should be closed and, after 3 days, ventilated.

Sulfur relieves:

fungi;
mold;
ticks;
slugs.

Disinfection with formalin solution

A month before planting the plants, you can treat the greenhouse 40% formaldehyde solution. Before the procedure, the temperature in the greenhouse must be reduced to 10–12ºС so that the formaldehyde does not evaporate. The treatment is carried out in a gas mask. After the procedure, the temperature in the greenhouse should be increased to 25ºС, and after a day the room should be ventilated.

Formalin destroys:

spider mite;
fungus;
mold;
whitefly

Copper sulfate treatment

Thorough processing copper sulfate is produced in the fall; in the spring you should spray the walls and ceiling of the greenhouse with a 10% solution of this substance.

Copper sulfate destroys:

late blight;
powdery mildew;
spider mite;
rot;
I'm scabby.

Treatment with special preparations

Stores now offer a large selection of drugs designed to combat with a certain type of bacteria, so gardeners can choose the one that best suits their greenhouse. Special compositions are also good because they do not require a long break: after them you can continue working in the greenhouse.

These drugs have a beneficial effect on soil fertility: they fix nitrogen, decompose pesticides, bind heavy metals, produce natural growth hormones.

Soil replacement

This the most radical and effective way combating pathogens: soil contaminated by bacteria is completely eliminated and replaced with new soil.

Replacing soil - activity difficult and expensive, therefore not suitable for large greenhouses.

Important! To reduce costs, you can replace only the top layer (5–7 cm), since this is where all the fungi and bacteria are concentrated.

Replacement of planted crops

Gardeners know that different plants are susceptible to different diseases. Therefore, sometimes the easiest way is to plant a new crop that is resistant to the pathogens present in contaminated soil.

Temperature method

Most germs can be eliminated if you carefully pour boiling water over the soil. After watering, the beds need to be covered with cellophane film so that the steam penetrates the lower layers of the soil and disinfects them.

Photo

Look at the photo: how to treat the greenhouse before planting

How to get rid of late blight?

Many gardeners are seriously concerned about the question: how to treat late blight in a greenhouse in the spring?

Late blight– every gardener’s nightmare. This is a fungus that affects all nightshade crops - tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, peppers. Late blight can destroy any plant from roots to fruits.

The fruits of a plant affected by late blight cannot be eaten, and the plant itself must be immediately pulled out and burned to prevent the disease from spreading to healthy bushes. However, such methods often do not bring results: once late blight appears, it can destroy half the crop.

Important! Prevention of late blight should begin in the fall. After harvesting, you need to carefully eliminate all plant remains and burn them outside the garden.

If an outbreak of late blight does occur in the greenhouse, you need to treat the soil with a special preparation - “Fitosporin”. Before the next planting of plants, treatment should be carried out at least 3 times.

What to do if the earth is “tired”?

Fatigue of the earth in the greenhouse is nothing more than a lack of fertility. Every year, plants take all the nutrients from the earth, depleting and weakening it. To get a new crop, you need nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium, potassium and much more. Therefore, reserves of useful substances should be replenished.

The easiest way to increase soil fertility is sow green manure in the greenhouse. This is the name of plants that form a large volume of green mass in a short time: phacelia, watercress, vetch, mustard, rye, oats, clover. Their shoots and roots become an excellent source of organic matter and soil microorganisms. 3 kg of such greenery replaces 1.5 kg of manure, which has always been considered the best fertilizer for the soil.

When green manure grows up and grows, they are cut off and then plowed into the soil to a depth of 2–3 cm. The dead roots of green manure become food for worms, which loosen the soil, improve its structure and saturate the soil with air. After 1–2 weeks, the main crops can be planted in the plowed area.

How to fertilize the soil?

When preparing a greenhouse for planting, soil fertilization plays an important role. A gardener can use either organic fertilizers or ready-made ones. mineral complexes, which contain all the necessary nutrients.

Organic fertilizers for greenhouses

As organic fertilizers river silt, peat, tree bark, reeds, humus, bird droppings, and algae are used. The undoubted advantage of such fertilizers is their naturalness.

They saturate the soil with nutrients and improve the functioning of beneficial microorganisms. In addition, only with their help can you easily warm up the soil, which will allow you to plant the first plants much earlier.

The most useful fertilizer for the soil is manure. It has all the nutrients. Soil fertilized with manure becomes loose, light, and airy.

Manure can be introduced into the ground both in autumn and spring. In the fall, you can use fresh material: before spring it will rot and turn into an excellent fertilizer for future plants. But in the spring it is better to use rotted manure: caustic substances contained in fresh material can damage the root system of seedlings.

Mineral fertilizers

Fertilizing the soil with mineral fertilizers contributes to a significant increase in plant productivity. But they should be used with caution: the wrong dosage can ruin the entire fertile layer of soil. A gardener who decides to fertilize greenhouse soil with mineral fertilizers should be sure to read the instructions.

There are fertilizers that supply the soil with a specific element: phosphorus, nitrogen or potassium. They are called simple. But they are more popular complex fertilizers, which provide seedlings with the entire set of nutrients at once.

Every gardener knows how important it is to prepare the soil in the greenhouse for planting. After all, only if all recommendations are carefully followed can you get a good harvest and provide your family with environmentally friendly products for the whole winter.

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Watch the video: how to prepare a greenhouse for spring planting, how to treat a greenhouse in spring

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When installing a greenhouse on a site, you will have to decide what to make the beds from, how to avoid depletion of the soil, how to prevent its infection by pathogenic organisms and pests, and how to disinfect it if infection does occur.

Probably the main incentive that encourages modern summer residents to grow vegetables is the desire to eat “environmentally friendly” salad , radishes , cucumbers And tomatoes . But the idea of getting a larger harvest with the help of fertilizers and modern plant protection products, coming from industrial vegetable growing, is also attractive. After all, in this case there is a greater chance of getting a guaranteed harvest. Therefore, most gardeners these days walk a fine line between organic and inorganic farming. Finding an equilibrium point given the limited greenhouse size and crops is quite difficult.

The principles of inorganic farming, most vividly embodied in the ideas of Jacob Mittlider, imply that plants can (and even need) to be grown on any neutral substrate - sand, perlite, expanded clay, sawdust, peat, etc., watering them with a solution of the necessary minerals (hydroponics), or without any substrate at all, irrigating the root system in the air with a solution of nutrients (aeroponics). Humus (fertile soil) is not required in this case, but careful control of all added nutrients is necessary. It is interesting that Mittlider developed and recommended his method for cases when for some reason there is no land at all, or it cannot be used (for example, due to contamination with harmful substances). Later, his recommendations began to be applied in less extreme situations. Inorganic farming has several significant disadvantages for personal plots:

high price of fertilizers (the better quality they are, the more expensive);
Excess fertilizers are more dangerous than their lack. Excess fertilizers, especially nitrogen ones, weaken plants; they are more easily and more susceptible to various diseases and pests;
It is almost impossible to control how fertilizers are absorbed by plants and affect the soil in the conditions of an average dacha that is not equipped with a research laboratory.

The most important thing is to clearly understand that in no book or on any website you will find ready-made recipes that are completely suitable for your specific case. In order to provide the plants with a suitable environment, and yourself with an environmentally friendly harvest (for which, in fact, everything was started), you will have to look for your own option. Its development may take several years, but the result will be worth it.

If you do not have the necessary ingredients, you can start on a plot of ready-made land. There are companies that produce soils based on the top fertile layer of soil removed from farmland before construction. It's fine as a base that you can improve over time. The second option is to prepare the mixture yourself, so that you know exactly what you are dealing with. Usually the following recipe is recommended for greenhouse beds: 1 part turf or garden soil, 1 part river sand, 2-3 parts humus and 5-6 parts peat. For 1 cubic meter of this mixture add 3-4 kg of lime. Garden soil is most likely available at the place where you are placing the greenhouse; you can use it as a basis by sending the sod for composting. The remaining components can be purchased not only from specialized companies, but also in garden supermarkets. The ratio of parts can be changed. The main thing is that the soil at the outlet meets the basic requirement - it is loose, water- and breathable. Lime neutralizes the acidic reaction of peat, so when reducing its amount, less lime will also be needed.

In industrial soil greenhouses used for mono-crops, it is recommended to completely replace the soil at least once every 5-6 years, which is very expensive. At the same time, part of the substrate is renewed annually and disinfection procedures are carried out - steaming, freezing, as well as treatments with fungicides, pesticides, and antibacterial drugs. This is inevitable, since the soil becomes compacted, including due to applied fertilizers. In addition, pests and pathogens accumulate that are characteristic of the main crop, which has been grown in the same place for years.

I would like to avoid all this in my own greenhouse. What can be done for this?

Alternate different vegetables. Don't grow the same thing for years, as different vegetables have different nutritional needs. This helps avoid soil fatigue. Over time, you will establish a rotation of predecessor, main and cover crops in the greenhouse depending on your family's tastes and vegetable needs.
All plants influence each other. Try to choose "suitable neighbors", for example, they grow well together tomatoes , sweet peppers And basil . It is believed that basil has beneficial phytoncidal properties and improves the taste of tomatoes. A dill- works well on nearby plants cucumbers . Among other things, this approach will help to use the greenhouse more efficiently.
There are plants with a repellent effect. For example, marigold And calendula repel nematodes and aphids. A nasturtium - aphids and whiteflies. Take the space for several specimens of such plants that protect your chosen crop from specialized pests. They will not only bring benefits, but also decorate the greenhouse.
Do not overuse fertilizers. Most sources indicate industrial application rates based on the principle of “the maximum possible yield from the smallest area.”
Be sure to mulch the beds. This will help maintain the structure of the soil without loosening, during which the roots of planted vegetables can be damaged, and will get rid of weeds. In addition, moisture will evaporate more slowly from the beds. The optimal mulch is humus compost. If you don’t have it, you can try straw or well-dried grass, which should be laid out in a fairly thick layer of 5-8 cm.

It is advisable to avoid sprinkling irrigation. It is better to water so that the moisture gets directly to the roots. If you water manually, you can, for example, dig a kind of “funnel” made of plastic bottles around the plants at the stage of planting seedlings.
Consider the possibility of sowing cold-resistant green manures in a greenhouse: watercress , mustard , phacelia . They can also be sown next to the main crop as compaction.
You can try replacing traditional mineral fertilizers with “green” liquid fertilizers. For example, infusion of nettle or comfrey. Such “fertilizers” not only maintain soil fertility, but also improve the health of plants.
Pay attention to EM drugs. With their help, you can improve and enrich the soil in the greenhouse without replacing it.