Mixer      10/19/2023

Build a garden house with your own hands. Inexpensive do-it-yourself country house. Approximate prices for country houses

Buying a summer cottage is a joyful event in the life of every person. And it’s good if there is already a good house on the site. However, even in the absence of a residential building, you can easily solve this problem by doing the construction of the house yourself. It doesn't have to cost a lot of money. There are interesting designs for country houses that allow you to build full-fledged residential buildings with your own hands from available materials.

The simplest country house can be built from logs, cement and sawdust. Even these basic materials make it possible to build a beautiful, reliable and warm structure. Moreover, such a house will be completely environmentally friendly and safe for human health. Instead of cement, you can use a mixture of clay, straw and sand.

First step

Make a foundation. The structure will weigh quite little, so a simple strip foundation or a columnar foundation, which is more preferable in such situations, will do.

Second step

Prepare the base for the house. For the bottom trim, it is recommended to use the highest quality timber possible. Before laying the timber, you need to lay reliable waterproofing on the foundation. Also, the beam of the lower trim must be waterproofed on top.

For additional rigidity, the strapping beam should be braided with wire. The load-bearing walls of the house are made of wooden pillars. At the end you should have a stable frame structure.

Third step

Place rollers of cement or clay-sand mortar on top of the waterproofing of the lower trim. Fill the gaps between such rollers with sawdust and begin laying out the firewood. Before laying, it is recommended to soak the firewood with an antiseptic composition.

Fourth step

Take a round knife and use it to spread the solution between the stacked firewood. Over time, the wood will dry out, and you will need to fill the gaps with mortar as they appear.

Fifth step

Lay the walls out of wood in layers. They laid a layer - filled all the existing gaps with sawdust - laid a new layer and so on until the end. As a result, you will have already insulated walls.

Sixth step

Sand the edges of the wood with sandpaper. Any kind of burrs will additionally retain moisture, so you need to get rid of them especially carefully.

At the end, all you have to do is assemble a simple rafter system and install the selected roofing material. Give preference to lightweight materials. For example, bitumen is well suited for the roof of such a house.

The inside of the wall can be plastered, lined with clapboard or finished at your discretion. The outside walls are usually left unchanged. In any case, it is recommended to carry out finishing work no earlier than after 1-2 years, because During this time the wood will shrink. You will have to fill all the cracks that appear with the previously mentioned materials.

The simplest hut house can be erected with minimal financial investment.

First stage. Make a standard pile foundation and tie it with prefabricated beams.

Second phase. Install the house floor beams. The basis of such a structure is represented by rafters in the form of the letter “A”. The rafters are installed on a pre-insulated floor. If the house has a large height, the elements of the rafter system are spliced ​​in height.

Third stage. Cover the outside walls of the house with OSB boards.

Fourth stage. Stretch wind- and moisture-proof material such as isospan over the sheathed walls.

Fifth stage. Cover the roof slopes with the OBS boards you are already familiar with. This cladding will be a good basis for rolled roofing material. If desired, you can install a standard sheathing on the roof and use other finishing materials - corrugated sheets, metal tiles, etc.

Before laying the finishing roofing material, the roof must be insulated. Typically, mineral wool is used for insulation. While performing this work, do not forget about the need to create ventilation gaps. To organize them, a counter-lattice is installed - it is enough to nail the transverse strips to the elements of the sheathing to create a small gap.

Install ventilation grilles from the bottom of the roof that will allow air to circulate normally in the under-roof space.

Excellent DIY earthen house

A house made of earth is one of the most ancient types of residential buildings known to mankind. If you follow the technology, you can get a durable, fire-resistant and fairly warm building from ordinary soil, which does not require almost any financial investment for its construction.

First stage

Prepare the foundation for your future home. At the same time, prepare the main building materials for the construction of the house in question - bags filled with compacted earth. For the foundation, dig trenches about 50-60 cm deep. Select the width individually - it should correspond to the width of the bags of earth.

Fill the prepared trenches with crushed stone. The backfill must be thoroughly compacted. Cover the entire area under the future earthen house with approximately a 20-centimeter layer of crushed stone.

Second phase

Place waterproofing material on the backfill.

Third stage

Draw the circles of the future walls using a construction compass. It is desirable that the house have a round shape. Of course, you can build an ordinary rectangular building from bags of earth, but it is the round walls that are characterized by the highest strength.

Fourth stage

Place the first layer of pre-prepared bags on top of the previously laid waterproofing material. The mixture in these bags should include soil, sand, cement powder and crushed stone.

Fill the bags to approximately 80-85% of the volume and compact them as thoroughly as possible. Each bag used should be shaped like a rectangle, like a brick. For better compaction, the mixture in the bag should be slightly moistened with water. Sew the valves of the bags with ordinary wire.

Be especially careful when laying out the first row of bags. Everything must be done in strict accordance with the previously applied markings. Compact the bags and moisten them a little with water.

Fifth stage

Lay 2 rows of barbed wire on the first layer of masonry. In this case, the barbed wire will take on the functions of a reinforcing layer. Immediately seal all punctures and tears in the bags with gray adhesive tape. This is waterproof plumbing tape.

Sixth stage

Start laying out the walls. Install door frames and window frames immediately. Line each row of earthbags with a double layer of barbed wire. Additionally, you can secure the wire using staples.

Seventh stage

Fill the seams between the individual bags with a mixture of sand, cement, chopped straw and lime.

The bags need to be laid with some displacement of the seams, approximately the same as with traditional brickwork.

Having reached the height of a person, you can begin to shift each row of laid material to increase the strength of the walls being built.

The laid walls are plastered. Before applying the plaster, the bags should be treated with cement laitance and allowed to dry. Plastering is carried out using a steel painting mesh.

At the junctions of the walls, perform additional reinforcement with the same barbed wire.

The interior decoration of an earthen house is usually limited to simple plastering.

Finally, all that remains is to arrange the roof of the earthen house. First install the beam supports - they need to be securely clamped between the bags. Cover the floors with OSB boards and lay the finishing material on top. The optimal coating option for this case is bitumen.

After completing all the basic work, you can cover the walls of your earthen house with finishing plaster or paint.

If desired, even an ordinary change house can be converted into a completely comfortable country house.

First stage. Prepare a strip concrete foundation. It is also possible to use a columnar foundation, but you must first make sure that the soil in the area is not subject to severe frost heaving.

Second phase. Allow the base concrete to gain at least half its original strength, and then install the cabin on the foundation. A crane will help you with this. Adjust the position of the change house using boards. Pre-treat the boards with an antiseptic and place them under the runners of the building.

Third stage. Assemble the frame of the extension to the shed. To do this, use a 10x5 cm beam. Install supports on the veranda and triple the horizontal purlins under the rafters.

Fourth stage. Sew siding or other selected material onto the outside of the cabin walls. For additional insulation, insert mineral wool into the sheathing and cover it with plastic film.

Insulate the floor and walls of the extension. The inside of the insulation must be covered with a vapor barrier material.

Fifth stage. Complete the exterior cladding of the house. It is more convenient and efficient to use vinyl siding for this.

Sixth stage. Lay out the roof. Metal tiles are best combined with siding. Otherwise, when choosing a finishing coating, be guided by your preferences and financial capabilities.

Seventh stage. Attach snow guards to roof slopes. Insulate the attic as desired.

Eighth stage. Finish the interior of the house. For example, the walls can be covered with plasterboard, covered with a couple of layers of putty and painted. Level the floors and install your preferred flooring.

As a result, after adding an additional room and simple finishing work, the old change house turns into a very comfortable house with a separate bedroom and a large living room-kitchen.

Thus, a wide variety of materials can be used to build country houses. Craftsmen have adapted almost everything found in nature, and even straw, for such work!

Now you know how to build from available and inexpensive materials, and you can build a reliable, safe and comfortable house on your summer cottage.

Good luck!

Video – DIY country house projects

People acquire dachas in different ways - they inherit them, buy plots with a house and remodel or complete them for themselves, or buy land in an almost open field and begin to develop virgin lands. One of our craftsmen, who decided to join country life, was puzzled by just such a process. And since the most effective way to save money is to do it yourself, that’s exactly what he did, starting small - with a summer house in the country “for the first time.”

  • Country house 6x6 with built-in terrace 4x3:
  • project;
  • foundation;
  • water supply;
  • box;
  • internal work.

Country house 6x6 with built-in terrace 4x3

Gonzik1

Last year I purchased a plot of land in a field (like a new holiday village). The poles were installed, electricity was supplied to the site (it took two months to complete the paperwork), a panel was installed on the pole with a meter, a machine and an outlet. This year, having saved up some money, I began construction. I decided to do everything myself, because it’s cheaper and more reliable.

DIY country house project

The craftsman created the dacha construction project with his own hands over the winter; according to his idea, this is the first module, to which he will later attach another one, combining both parts into a solid structure. Using a special program, I made a drawing that allowed me to accurately calculate the required amount of building materials.

Foundation

Since the house is lightweight, using frame technology and on one floor, Gonzik1 gave preference to a columnar foundation made of special concrete blocks (20x20x40 cm). His choice was also influenced by the low groundwater level (GWL) at the dacha and the excellent condition of similar foundations under neighboring buildings. Depending on the level, I used one or two blocks per pillar - removed the fertile layer, added a sand cushion, and laid the blocks. The plane was maintained using a hydraulic level. According to the craftsman, he appreciated this simple tool - it’s cheap and the measurement accuracy is excellent. The pillars were covered with roofing felt for waterproofing. With the help of relatives, the foundation was ready in three days.

Water supply

There is no place for a central water supply in the field, so the problem of water supply is a personal matter for each summer resident. Our craftsman initially planned to drill a well. Test drilling at thirty-six meters was unsuccessful - dense black clay came out instead of water. The drillers reported that only an artesian well about ninety meters long would help, and they announced an exorbitant price. Gonzik1 I got upset, imagining the scale of the problem, and decided to dig a well, as the foreseeable future has shown - the decision is the right one. Three days of work, ten rings - a column of water for one and a half rings, restored in an hour and a half.

Box

The strapping is two-layer - at the bottom there is a board 100x50 mm, at the top - 100x40 mm, impregnated with fire and biological protection, the strapping elements were connected to each other with nails (100 and 120 mm). The strapping was laid on top of the roofing felt and secured to the posts with anchors.

All frame posts were also assembled from 100x40 mm boards with nails; the walls were raised directly on site using temporary jibs. They collected only the ridge on the ground, then lifted it onto the roof. This stage took another four days.

The next thing was to install the rafters, wind boards, install the wind protection, and put the counter batten and sheathing on top. Our craftsman chose metal tiles as the roofing covering.

Gonzik1

I read that no matter which side the sheets are laid on, they are often laid from left to right. It turned out, no, the tiles are laid from right to left, otherwise the next sheet will have to be placed under the previous one, which is extremely inconvenient, especially when installing alone. The weather was not very good, it was drizzling, there was wind, it moved along the roof like a cat, trying to cling to the sheathing with its feet. All twelve sheets of tiles (115x350 cm) were laid in half a day.

After the tiles, we got to the grounding, due to which the floor joists were not completely laid. Gonzik1 I used a corner 50x50x4 mm, a connection from a metal strip 40x4 mm, plus a piece of self-supporting insulated wire (SIP).

Next, we covered the entire structure with a protective membrane, installed a door, laid floorboards on the terrace, and began covering the façade with imitation timber. The cash was immediately treated with protective impregnation. During the work, the craftsman made adjustments to the project - he made a third window, so there will be more light, and the view from the window is attractive.

Interior work

With the end of the holidays, the construction process slowed down as much as possible, since free weekends did not occur every week, but it continued. I finished with the floor - rough on OSB joists, a windproof membrane on top, stone wool slabs between the joists, sheathing, and OSB again on it. Linoleum is assumed to be the finishing coating. The house also got another window.

I brought electricity into the house, insulated the perimeter with stone wool, a vapor barrier on top and clapboard as cladding.

The finishing process continued according to the same algorithm; contrasting trim on the window openings added decorative value to the house. All internal walls will be covered with clapboard.

Gonzik1

There are no stoves planned, the house is for seasonal use - spring, summer, autumn. I plan to install electric convectors, I have no problems with electricity there, three phases, new substation, 15 kW per site.

For all those interested, the craftsman posted a calculation of materials (all used boards are 6 meters long):

  • foundation blocks 200×200×400 mm, 30 pieces;
  • board 50x100 mm, 8 pieces (for the bottom layer of strapping);
  • board 40x100 mm, 96 pieces - approximately 8 pieces left;
  • board 25x10 mm, 128 pieces - approximately 12 pieces left;
  • timber 100×100 mm, 3 pieces;
  • rail 25×50 mm, 15 pieces;
  • imitation timber 18.5×146, 100 pieces – approximately 15 pieces left;
  • insulation, stone wool 1200×600×100 mm, 28 packages (6 slabs each) – package left;
  • windproof membrane 1.6 m wide, 60 m² per roll, 3 rolls;
  • vapor barrier 1.6 m wide, 60 m² per roll, 3 rolls - approximately 0.5 rolls left;
  • OSB 3 2500×1200×9 mm, 15 pieces (rough and finishing floor) – approximately 1.5 slabs left;
  • metal tile 350×115 cm, 12 sheets;
  • lining 12.5x96 cm, 370 pieces (10 packs) - not sure it’s enough, partially used for toilet hemming, and the walls are not finished yet;
  • wooden windows 1000×1000 mm, 3 pieces;
  • entrance metal door 2050×900 mm, 1 piece;
  • protective impregnation for wood, 10 liters - 3 liters left, but the house is covered in only one layer.

Taking into account independent construction and finishing, the estimate turned out to be quite budgetary.

Gonzik1

  • Foundation - 2500 rubles.
  • Boards for the frame, wind protection, vapor barrier, imitation timber (exterior decoration), lining (interior decoration), insulation, etc. - 110,000 rubles.
  • Metal tiles - 20,000 rubles.
  • Door - 13,200 rubles.
  • Windows - 4,200 rubles x 3 = 12,600 rubles.
  • Forwarding SIP to the house - 3000 rubles (with the cable itself).
  • Impregnation - 3600 rubles.

I’m still planning to install electrical wiring around the house, I think I’ll spend 8-10 thousand. I don’t give the cost of nails, screws, staples for a stapler, etc., etc., because I no longer remember how much I purchased. Total: about 165,000 rubles.

For another short but fruitful vacation - I finished the electrical work, finished the interior paneling and painting, made a set for the kitchen, completed the terrace. I laid a 100x40 mm board on the terrace, took it unplaned, processed it with an electric planer, and then covered it with impregnation in two layers. Over the past winter, everything was in place, nothing moved, did not dry out or warp. The craftsman has plans to complete the second block, but this test of the pen is excellent - an excellent summer house for a family holiday.


Every person who has purchased a small plot of land for a summer cottage strives to build a house or a similar easily erected structure in a short time. To have a place to relax after a hard day at work, or to hide from inclement weather. Well, it’s natural to get settled in everyday life. Of course, it is advisable to build a house so that it can accommodate the whole family and guests who come for the weekend. The task is, of course, enormous, but quite doable if you have accumulated savings to build a country house, because a large amount of new building material will be required.

If possible, you can hire hired workers to build this structure.

Of course, this will significantly increase financial expenses for your family, and if this is not possible, you will have to build a country house with your own hands.

Mostly, dacha owners build their houses with their own hands in order to save money on hiring a construction team and invite relatives and friends to help with the construction, which naturally reduces the cost of the construction process.

Summer residents also sometimes use used materials, which can be purchased at half the price compared to market prices, but this will reduce the durability of the structure by half.

When building his country house, the author decided not to skimp on the basic material and buy everything on the construction market so that it would last for a century and the house would last a long time, delighting his family and his guests with its comfort and aesthetic appearance.

The main material for construction was, of course, wood, which could be better and more beautiful than wood. The author purchased bars and boards at a local sawmill, which turned out to be much cheaper than in a hardware store.

When starting construction, I first drilled holes for the supporting pillars, inserted them and filled them with cement mortar. I tied the poles with boards and left them for a day for the solution to dry. Then he began construction, step by step moving towards his cherished goal.

And so now let's take a closer look at how he built his country house, and what he needed for this.

Materials: board 30 mm, timber 100 by 100, timber 40 by 60, floorboard 50 mm, insulation, professional sheet, lath, fiberboard.
Tools: circular saw, drill, drill, screwdriver, hammer, shovel, electric plane, angle, ruler, tape measure, circular saw.

And so the first thing he did was invite his neighbor and together they drilled holes to install the pillars.


Then I installed the posts and filled the holes with cement mortar.


I made a screed at the bottom and top so that the pillars would stand level, and after a day, after the solution had gained hardness, I began further construction.


The author makes the top harness.


Then he moves on to creating the roof ridge.


















Next he makes the roof sheathing.






Shows the rafter attachment point.


The remains from sawing will also come in handy somewhere.


Next, he proceeds to installing the roof from a professional sheet.










Then he moves on to installing the floors of the house.














So we have a place to store boards from precipitation.


Prepares a batch of boards, cutting them apart on a circular saw.




And begins finishing the cornice.




She covers the walls with boards, and seals the gaps between the boards with slats.


Next we move on to the ceiling trim.

After you have purchased a small plot of six acres, it is extremely important to develop a design for the house and its location. In this case, it is necessary to plan everything in a complex, since different types of landscape design require certain conditions for the choice of material for building construction.

If living in a house is not expected during the cold season, it makes sense to consider options for building a small house. This will significantly save the area of ​​the site for planting or create a unique landscape design.

Before construction, it is important to study all the main requirements for the construction of objects on a land plot:

  1. Buildings should be located no closer than five meters from the border of the site and three meters from the neighbors’ territory.
  2. The distance between your house and neighboring buildings should not exceed six meters.
  3. Site fencing should be erected to a height of no more than one and a half meters.
  4. Toilet and cesspools can be located at a distance of no closer than fifteen meters from residential buildings or water sources (wells, boreholes).

Which house project to choose?

Before starting construction work, you need to decide on the size of the house. The most relevant size can be considered if the building contains:

  1. Living room (or several rooms).
  2. Kitchen.
  3. Terrace (open or closed veranda).

Conventionally, all house projects can be divided into three types:


Country house with a bathhouse under one roof

Projects for houses with a bathhouse are mainly made in two versions. Each of which must meet the main requirement - the combination of two buildings with different functions.

In the first option, the steam room and washing department are located on the first floor, and the rest room is located on the second.

When using the second method, a bathhouse is attached to a residential building. It can be placed directly next to the house or connected to it with a small vestibule.

What these methods have in common is the presence of one roof.

It is important to understand that when building such a structure it is necessary to use additional heat and waterproofing materials.

The undoubted advantage of such buildings is the possibility of creating a unified communication system. This will allow you to use the sauna all year round without the need to carry water and firewood.

Dimensions of residential buildings

The smallest residential country buildings are 4 by 4 m in size; there is no point in making houses with a smaller area. The layout of this option is very simple - one room.

Such houses can differ from each other only in the number of windows and location in relation to the cardinal directions. It is advisable to place doors in the middle or at the end of the building. Area about 16 square meters.

A building measuring 6 x 3 m will be slightly larger, approximately 18 square meters. You can already include a place for cooking in the layout.

The above options are unlikely to be optimal. Timber or log houses measuring 6 x 3 m are much more in demand among summer residents. This is explained simply - the length of the timber (log) is six meters.

In addition, you can already design a small kitchen in the house. In a country house measuring 6 x 4 m, you can build a small vestibule (or bathroom).

If we talk about residential buildings 6 x 4 m, then it is quite possible to place another room or living room.

Materials used to build country houses and their durability

  1. Frame houses.

The most common construction method. According to statistics, more than seventy percent of country houses are frame or panel. They are erected quite quickly, during the summer season. The minimum construction time, without finishing and installing the foundation, can be one and a half months.

The frame is sheathed on the inside and outside with inexpensive material (plywood, OSB or lining).

Insulation is placed between the sheathing material. Advantages - the ability to complete and rebuild the structure. A good option in terms of price/quality ratio. If construction technology is followed and regularly treated with special antiseptic compounds, it is quite durable.

  1. Log houses.

The second most common construction method. When purchasing a ready-made log house (taking into account the time required to build the foundation), it is realistic to build a house within 3-4 months.

Important! It will take approximately six months for the building to shrink.

You can build a house yourself; the process of constructing the structure is not complicated. Like any wooden building, the house can be easily completed or redesigned. Durable, subject to treatment with bioprotective materials. It is environmentally friendly and can last for decades if properly used.

Not a bad option. The truth will require close attention to the assembly process. If all recommendations of professionals are followed, the owner has the right to count on warm and reliable housing.

  1. Country houses made of timber.

A very popular method. Solid, profiled timber is used in construction.

Assembly is carried out from ready-made beams, so the construction period will be 2-3 months. Taking into account the laying of the foundation. As in the case of log houses, the time for shrinkage will be about six months. As a rule, houses are made and assembled by professionals.

If you decide to build such a house yourself, there is no guarantee from the manufacturer. Advantages – warm; reliable; do not require finishing; possibility of modernization; durability; environmental friendliness; beautiful appearance. The disadvantage is the high cost.

  1. Brick projects.

Brick structures are not afraid of temperature changes and unfavorable natural factors (precipitation, strong wind). However, this method has a number of disadvantages: brick is a rather expensive building material; The process of building a house can take a long time. Advantage - the service life of a brick cottage can be several decades without special preventive measures.

Important! When constructing such buildings, special attention must be paid to the optimal temperature conditions - high humidity is unacceptable.

In addition, due to the significant mass of bricks, the construction of a capital foundation is mandatory. The best option is a monolithic base.

  1. Houses made of gas silicate blocks.

The main reason for choosing this material is its low price. About twice as cheap as brick.

Important! The blocks are fragile, so you need to be especially careful when transporting them.

Used in the construction of external walls. External cladding will be required, since the appearance of a bare house is not presentable. It is best to use materials that have increased moisture resistance and resistance to deformation. For example: siding or facing clinker bricks.

Low price of material. The mass of the block directly depends on the quality of the cement mortar used in its production. The maximum number of floors is 2-3.

Advantages – frost resistance; safety; low thermal conductivity; ease of processing; acceptable sound insulation; speed of construction.

Flaws:

  • specific choice of finishing products; not all materials are suitable;
  • inability to screw in self-tapping screws, since the blocks have a cellular structure;
  • increased requirements for moisture insulation.
  1. Sibit houses.

Sibit is a type of aerated concrete. It is particularly durable and resembles wood in some of its properties. The material is lightweight and retains heat well. The thermal insulation properties are three times greater than brick.

  • low strength of the material;
  • Heavy cabinets and shelves should not be hung on partitions and walls (special fastenings will be required).

Thus, we can conclude that the most economical option is frame houses.

Approximate prices for country houses

When choosing the option with a frame or frame-panel house, the approximate price will be from 11 thousand rubles per square meter. Construction of a wooden house box will cost about 13,000 rubles. for one m2. For a building made of foam concrete blocks you will have to pay from 15 thousand rubles. for 1 m2. Brick house – 18,000/m2. Thus, knowing the total area of ​​the designed house, it will not be difficult to calculate the final cost of construction. But these are only the costs of building walls. To this amount it will be necessary to add funds for laying the foundation, insulation, costs of laying the roof, and interior decoration of the premises.

In Moscow and the Moscow region there are a huge number of offers for the sale of ready-made turnkey country houses. Example: a house with dimensions width/depth/height - 6000/6000/3020 made of laminated veneer lumber is sold at a price of 367,000 rubles.

The final cost of the house depends on your preferences regarding the choice of additional options and can double or even triple.

Choosing a foundation

  1. Columnar foundation- one of the most common. Consists of pillars buried in the ground. The upper part protruding outwards is aligned horizontally.

Poles should be installed at the corners of the building, under walls and partitions. It is recommended to maintain a distance between them of 1-2.5 meters. The pillars are usually made of bricks or concrete blocks. It is used in the construction of frame-panel structures, houses made of logs and timber.

  • efficiency;
  • speed of construction;
  • used only for light buildings;
  • cannot be used on moving soils.
  1. Strip foundation completely repeats the outline of the house, and ensures the stability and reliability of the structure. It is a strip of reinforced concrete or brick. One part of such a foundation is in the ground, the other on the surface. This allows you to build garages or cellars under the structure. But only if a recessed type of foundation is used. Conventionally, such a foundation is divided into shallow (50-80 cm) and deep (over 80 cm).

Used in the construction of any type of dachas.

  • reliability and durability;
  • high load-bearing capacity;
  • wide scope of application.
  • relatively high price:
  • labor intensity.

  • driving;
  • printed;
  • drilling;
  • screw.

They are driven or screwed into the soil until they rest against a dense layer of earth.

  1. Monolithic foundation– a reinforced base laid on a specially equipped bed of gravel and sand. Suitable for absolutely any soil, will withstand the load from any country house. There is only one drawback - the high price.


Good day, dear users of the site. The warm season is approaching and we cannot sit at home. Either gardening work or cleaning the garden plot. And you never know what worries you have on your plot in a village, town or country house. Sometimes, after righteous labors, you just want to sit down and relax, drink tea or coffee, listen to music, and so on. In your yard, you can simply take out chairs and sit, or it is better to build a structure specially equipped for relaxation. Therefore, I would like to present to your attention another summer guest house. This building is ideal for a summer holiday, and even in the cold season, if you install a stove in it, it will be quite cozy. The assembly process is quite simple and will not be difficult for those whose hands grow from the right place.

To begin with, the author of this building prepared a place for the construction of the structure. I started, as usual in such cases, from the foundation. The author made a columnar foundation. Each column required eight foundation blocks. This is what the finished foundation looks like. Easy to build and not very expensive. Bricks can be used instead of foundation blocks.


The author's next step is tying, i.e. erection of the foundation of a future structure on the foundation. For this, the author used a beam with a section of 150x150 mm. Before installation, treat the timber with fire protection.


After we have tied the foundation, we install more between the main bars. This is for the floor. Next, the author begins to lay the floor itself.



Please note that when making the floor, the author does not place it in the front part of the building, since there will subsequently be a small terrace with a porch there. The author decided to insulate it immediately, without erecting walls. For this I used Izospan B, 5 cm insulation.


Further, after the author has covered the “sub-floor” with insulation, he lays the main floor on top of it.


Next, the wall frame is assembled and installed on the base.



Next, the author installs ready-made doors, upholsters the frame of the walls on the outside with isospan and trims everything with imitation timber.


This is what the walls look like from the inside at this stage of construction.


The next step is preparing the roof. The author puts insulation and sews everything up with boards.


After the author has prepared the ceiling, he assembles and installs skates on the roof. He fastens them with construction corners.



Next, boards are nailed for subsequent installation of insulation and roof tiles on them.


After all the boards are filled, we insulate the roof on top with isospan-D


Now the author begins to insulate the interior of the future guest house. For this, materials such as Izospan A, insulation, and lining are used.