Construction of a hip roof with your own hands. We build a hip roof: the process from “A” to “Z.” Do-it-yourself hip roof for a gazebo

The hip roof is one of the varieties of hipped roofing structures. In terms of complexity of arrangement, hip roofs are superior to classic and gable roofs; placing four slopes on a house, exactly coordinated with each other and joined at the same angles, is not very easy. But with a strong desire, even the most difficult activities become understandable and simple. Read the guide and get started.

DIY hip roof

The hipped roofing system has a number of distinctive features. Thus, a hip roof includes a pair of long slopes, which have a pronounced trapezoidal shape, as well as a pair of short slopes, made in the form of inclined triangles.

Hip roof design

The main difficulties in arranging a traditional hip roof arise at the stage of erecting a truss structure, consisting simultaneously of slanted, ordinary and outer rafters.

Hip roofs perfectly withstand wind loads and generally have high performance characteristics. In order for the finished roof to serve as long and efficiently as possible, at the design stage it is necessary to resolve a number of important issues, namely:

choose the optimal material for arranging the roof structure;
determine the intensity of precipitation characteristic of the construction region;
set average and maximum wind loads.

Taking into account the above indicators, you can calculate the optimal values for the slope angles and the height of the roof structure.

Plane plan of a hip roof

To perform calculations and draw up a project, you can contact a specialist or find a suitable project in one of the many open sources. If you have the proper skills, you can handle the mentioned activities yourself.

Features of the hip design

The roof in question, as already noted, has a very interesting design. And if large slopes can be seen on almost all roofs, then short slopes make the system in question truly unique.

The design of the roofing system is such that the slopes do not cover the length of the house and the remaining free space is filled with two short hips.

Hip roof device

When drawing up a diagram of a hip roof structure yourself, you will need to use a marking strip and Pythagorean tables.

Calculation of materials for a hip roof

It is important that the roof design is as accurate as possible - this is the only way you can make the correct cuts from the rafter elements yourself and install all the components of the system yourself.

What do you need to know before starting work?

To ensure that the system fully meets all the requirements, remember the following recommendations:

the intermediate components of the hip roof rafter system are steeper when compared with the corner parts, therefore the boards used for arranging the intermediate elements must have a size of at least 5x15 cm;
fastening of short elements is carried out to the corner rafter components, and not to the ridge board. Intermediate boards must be fixed with the same slope as the short beams;
the ridge roof system and rafter elements must be made of the same material;
intermediate rafter legs are fixed at the edges of the ridge board. They must simultaneously connect to the upper end of the trim and to the ridge board;
rafter elements and ridge beams must be of equal thickness. Only if this rule is observed can you count on the reliability and strength of the roofing system. If any rafters are thinner, over time the roof frame will deform and the integrity of the system will be seriously compromised;
A hip roofing system can be of almost any height. However, when arranging a roof that is too low, it is necessary to use additional supports;
To ensure the longest service life of a hip roof, it is necessary to use carefully dried and high-quality softwood timber for its installation. Before assembling the structure, all wooden components must be treated with antiseptic impregnation.

Guide to constructing a hip roof

Start arranging the roof. Start by creating a construction site layout.

Marking

Layered rafters

Properly executed markings, correct drawings and the most reliable calculations are the three fundamental factors for successful construction. Carry out markings in accordance with the drawings. Follow the following sequence.

Hip roof frame calculation

First step. Mark the axis along the highest trim on the end side of the building;

Second step. Calculate 50% of the thickness of the ridge and determine the location of the first element of the rafter system.

Third step. Place one edge of the measuring stick against the previously marked line. Place the second end along the line of the side wall. This will establish the placement point for the intermediate rafter element.

Fourth step. Determine the length of the rafter overhang. To do this, place the beam with one edge on the outer corner of the wall, and install it with the other on the roof overhang.

Fifth step. Calculate the next component of the central rafters. Move the batten to the edge of the side wall and mark where the rafter will be attached. The element will be located between the top roof trim and the side wall.

Repeat for the remaining three corners. This way you will know where the intermediate rafter legs and ridge ends will be installed in the future.

Calculation

First step. Take the marking strip and determine the value of the horizontal projection of the intermediate rafter element. Using standardized documentation, find the appropriate roof slope for your situation and multiply the determined values.

Second step. Measure the length of the rafter. Do this from the sampling at the roof ridge to the sampling at the place where the support is fixed. Measure along the bottom line.

Third step. Determine the length of the overhang in the same way. To do this, multiply the horizontal projection value by the appropriate correction factor. You can use the Pythagorean theorem, known since school days: c2=a2+b2. In the situation under consideration, a is a vertical projection, and b, accordingly, a horizontal projection.

Fourth step. Proceed to the calculations of the angular components. On one side of the rafter legs there are oblique cuts, which ensure reliable fixation of the elements to the roof ridge. Directly at the ridge there is an undercut with a special double bevel, used for attaching corner components.

Corner rafter legs are calculated in the following order:

The length of the rafter element is measured from any corner of the house;
a projection is established equal to the squares of the length of the projections of the central rafter legs used, multiplied by each other;
the resulting value is multiplied by a correction factor, which allows you to determine the length of the corner rafter leg.

Installation of rafters

Hip roof installation

First step. Proceed with the installation of vertical posts that will support the ridge beam. Attach the elements to the central beam using a miter system.

How to attach rafters to the mauerlat

Installation of a hip roof truss system

Second step. Install diagonal rafters. All elements must be the same length. In the case of roof overhangs, the figure will vary from 500 to 700 mm. Pay special attention to the correct joining of the hip, diagonal rafter elements and the ridge.

Rafter connection

Third step. Install slanted rafters, and then ordinary rafters with a pitch of about 600 mm. Attach ordinary rafters to the mauerlat and ridge beam using the cutting method. To strengthen the fixation, use crossbars and ties.

Hip roof rafter system

It is important that ordinary rafters do not come into contact with the studs that secure the Mauerlat to the walls of the house.

Fourth step. Attach splices to each side of the diagonal strips, due to which the slanted rafters will be connected to the mauerlat.

Both ordinary rafter elements and frames must be mounted strictly perpendicular to the ridge.

Installation of the rafter system

Strengthening the truss structure

When choosing a method for strengthening rafters, focus primarily on the size of the building. Among the most popular methods of amplification, the following options should be highlighted:

At the corners of the roof, trusses with a special stand are fixed, which serves as a support for the diagonal rafter element. The sprengel in this situation is a beam that you need to throw between the two corner arms of the support mauerlat. If the truss installation has to be done at a great distance from the mentioned corner, professionals recommend installing a reliable truss truss;
The racks are placed on the reinforced concrete floor or by tightening. They will perform the function of the so-called. “shelf” supporting the rafters in the middle;
if the diagonal rafter elements are too long, double beams should be used instead of one beam.

Hip hip roof

Ventilation

To provide the required level of ventilation of the under-roof space, make a hole in the windproof film for air entry. It must be placed on top, closer to the roof ridge.

If the wind sheathing is made of wood, it is enough to simply fasten the boards with a gap of 2-3 mm. If plastic products are used to make the binder, the elements must first be perforated.

If the wind lining of the roof has already been assembled, you can install ordinary ventilation grilles into it. The standard diameter of such gratings is 50 mm. The mesh of the product can be of any color. Place the gratings along the entire length of the wind tunnel with a pitch of about 800 mm.

At the end, all you have to do is lay the insulation, arrange the waterproofing layer, fill the sheathing boards and install the selected finishing coating.

Structure of the rafter system

Now you know the main features and procedure for arranging a hip roof yourself. The work can hardly be called too easy, but using the knowledge gained in practice, you will be able to cope with all the related activities yourself.

Installing a roof on a hip roof

Good luck!

Video - DIY hip roof

A properly installed roof guarantees protection from precipitation and cold. Among the variety of architectural forms and types of roofs, the hip roof can be distinguished separately. It reliably protects from wind and precipitation. To erect this structure, they turn to qualified roofing specialists, since the construction of such a roof requires certain skills. But you can make a hip roof yourself, without outside help; for this you need to clearly and without deviation follow the construction instructions. Before making a hip roof with your own hands, it is worth carrying out certain calculations to calculate the load on the base of the house and calculate the required volume and assortment of lumber.

Hip roof design

In order to understand the structure of a hip roof, it is necessary to understand the principle by which such a structure is erected. Such a roof consists of four sides, two of which are triangle shaped and are called hips, and two sides are trapezoidal. To understand how such a structure is formed, imagine the construction of a gable roof, the gables of which are, as it were, inclined towards the inside of the house. The analogue of such “fallen” gables in a hip roof are precisely the hips.

When installing a hip roof, certain rules are used:

When building a hip roof, you should pay attention to the wood. For the rafters and ridge system, timber of the same cross-section is taken.
The central rafters rest against both the upper end of the trim and the ridge board.
When building a hip roof, central rafters are made, which are attached to the edges of the ridge board.
Intermediate elements are made steeper than corner elements. Accordingly, the size of the construction board should be at least 50*150 mm.

Advantages and disadvantages of the design

Hip roofing, like any other, has its pros and cons. The advantages of such a roof include the following aspects:

it practically does not deform due to the rigidity of the structure - the hips create the effect of supports and do not allow precipitation and winds to load the structure;
can withstand sharp gusts of wind, again due to the structure, which is essentially a shell;
on such a roof it is possible to make increased overhangs on all sides, which will protect the façade of the building from precipitation;
in places where eaves overhangs occur, fewer structural failures occur;
Visually, such a roof makes the building appear lower.

There are a number of disadvantages when using this design:

a hip roof is much more expensive than other roof structures; this is due to the complexity of calculations and installation. This minus does not matter if you make a hip roof with your own hands;
the attic space is significantly reduced due to the slope of the hips into the usable volume;
When precipitation occurs, water can enter through the attic windows into the room. This minus also does not matter if the attic space of your house is not used as an attic.

Roof calculation

Before building a hip roof, an accurate calculation of the entire structure is made in order to avoid further problems during operation. When developing a project, it is worth paying attention to some parameters.

Hip roof angle

In areas with strong winds and dry, hot climates, a structure with an inclination angle of around 15 degrees is made. In places where there is heavy snowfall, the angle of inclination is increased. The angle of inclination is calculated based on the parameters of the selected roofing material.

Hip roof rafter spacing

When designing a hip roof, the pitch of the rafters should be from 60 cm to 1 m. This is usually done not only for reasons of structural strength. This step is selected in accordance with the insulation, which will subsequently be laid between the rafters, and the standard width of the insulation is approximately 60 centimeters. Precisely adjusting the pitch of the rafters to future finishing materials allows you to significantly save money by eliminating unnecessary trimmings and trimmings.

Hip roof sheathing

Hip roof sheathing device. The sheathing of a hip roof is calculated based on the existing roof covering. For each type of roofing material, the lathing is calculated individually. We discussed in detail the structure of the roof sheathing and its dependence on various roofing materials in the article How to make a gable roof with your own hands.

Instructions for building a hip roof

Before installing the hip roof rafter system, markings are made. It is applied as follows:

On the top row of the trim along the end of the building, mark the horizontal axis.
Count ½ of the thickness of the ridge beam. This mark is used to determine the horizontal projection of the central rafter.
The position of the side rafters is marked using a proportional distribution of distances from the intended line along the perimeter of the wall.
Calculate the length of the overhang of the rafter system.

When all the calculations are prepared, construction of the hip roof begins. The steps for constructing the roof are given below:

The first step is the installation of vertical posts to support the ridge beam (purlin). The posts are attached to the central beam through a bevel system.
The second step is the installation of the main rafters. They are made the same length. In this case, the roof overhang is calculated in the range from 50 to 70 cm.
The third step is the installation of diagonal rafters that go from the ridge to the corners of the building. An important element in the construction of a hip roof is the junction of three elements: the hip, the ridge and the diagonal rafters. To strengthen the diagonal rafters, crossbars and ties are used.
The fourth step is to install the rafts (short rafters) to the corner diagonal rafters. For this element, the installation step is the same as for the rest of the rafters.

The fifth step is installation of the roofing pie. It includes:

Installation of vapor protection;

Installation of sheathing;

Laying insulation (if necessary);

Installation of counter-lattice;

Installation of windproofing.

The sixth step is the installation of slats for attic or dormer windows, chimneys and other technical openings.
The seventh step is laying the roofing material. It can be screwed directly to the sheathing slats, for example, when laying metal tiles or with a layer of OSB boards, if we are talking about a soft roof.

To strengthen the structure of the rafter system, additional elements and design solutions are used:

Sprengel. This is a beam installed at the junction of the corner of two mauerlats. A stand is installed on the truss, supporting the rafters at the corner.
For better fastening of diagonal rafters, they are cut into the Mauerlat and ridge board.
Special racks are installed in the center of the diagonal rafters, which give greater rigidity to the structure.

It is important to remember that before making a hip roof, it is worth checking all the calculations accurately - they must provide the necessary margin of safety, then your roof will serve conscientiously for several decades.

The hip roof is very practical and looks elegant. But it takes a lot of effort and expense. It is possible to erect it with your own hands, but the main thing here is to have certain construction engineering skills and strictly follow calculations and diagrams.

Specifics of this type of roof

She is one of the types hipped roof. The top view of the house with it resembles a closed envelope. Specialists called two slopes of a small area, having a triangle format, “hip”. The shape of the other pair of slopes is trapezoid. Their size is larger.

The hip roof is formed by the following units (diagram):

Horse serves as the top of the roof. This is a line formed by rafter tandems in the area where they are fastened. The specificity of the ridge is that it is inferior in length to the structure it covers.

Hips. These are triangular shaped slopes. They are positioned above the end walls and are used instead of a pediment. They are made up of diagonal and intermediate rafters (DS and PS).

Stingrays. Their shape is trapezoid. Their beginning is from the ridge, and their end is in the overhang.

Ribs. These are the angles formed in the areas where the hips and slopes are fastened. The number of hips is equal to the number of DS. Their total number is 4.

Drainage network. Its components: funnels, pipes and gutters. It allows you to drain unnecessary liquid from the surface of such a roof into the sewer system.

Important! The hip roof does not provide for the creation of a residential attic in it. Reason: its two slopes significantly reduce the height of the ceiling in the under-roof area.

Rafters and supports

The differences in the installation of a complex hip roof from a gable roof are the presence of a larger number of components. They are as follows (diagram):

Ridge run. This is a special beam. Rafter duets are mounted on it.

Diagonal rafters (DS). They make up the ribs of the hips. From the end of the ridge they follow to the corner nodes of the Mauerlat, connecting to it. They are longer than standard rafters. The material for their creation must have a large cross-section. And this is usually what double boards become. When drawing up drawings, it is important to take into account that the angle of position of such rafters is flatter than that of standard (intermediate) rafters.

Standard or intermediate rafters (RS). The place where their top is secured is the ridge girder, and the area where they end is the mauerlat.

Central standard rafters. There are usually 6 of them. They are connected to the end of the ridge and DS. This connection takes a lot of effort. This requires absolute concentration and adherence to precise markings.

Spawners or legs of short length. On the upper side their contact with the ridge is not allowed. The place where they are connected is the diagonal rafters. The lower the position of the sprig, the shorter it is.

Puff. This is a timber lintel. It is positioned between the standard rafter duo.

Rigel. This is a tie installed in the upper zone of the roof, right under the ridge .

Floor beams. These are puffs mounted below, at the base of the rafters.

Rack. This is a vertical beam. It serves as a support for the ridge and distributes the mass of the roof onto the load-bearing elements. If you need to make the attic area more spacious, the racks can be concentrated in the middle of the rafters.

Strut. These are supports fixed in a perpendicular position to the rafters. They keep them from sagging. A brace is extremely necessary if the roof slopes reach a length of 4.5 - 5 m.

Sprengel. This is a device for supporting diagonal rafters. The sprengel is formed by two beams. One mounts two parts of the Mauerlat. The second with emphasis enters the first and also into one DS.

Calculations, drawings, projects

Before creating a hip roof, it is necessary to carefully calculate its constituent structures. How to do this correctly? Before calculations, a diagram of the building to be covered with all parameters is created. Then, using simple formulas based on the Pythagorean theorem, you can calculate:

Diagram with parameters:

Ridge height value. The data here is: h = b x tanα/2. Here b is the length of the structure between the rafters from the end plane. And a is the angle of position of the slopes.
Length of standard rafters. Data: e = b / 2 x cosα. Here b is the same length, a is the same angle, e is the length of standard rafters.
Area of slopes. Data: S = 2ea. Here S is the total surface area of the slopes, e is the same parameter from point 2, and is the length between the rafters along the length of the building.

DS length:

Hip roof with parameters:

These diagrams help to calculate the length of the specified rafters only with the availability of data on the parameters of standard rafters.

The required pitch between rafter tandems is also often found in reference books, based on the type and thickness of the working material (wood) and the length of the slopes. The calculation results are reflected in the drawing. Next we mark the roof using it.

It is also very convenient to perform the above calculations on a calculator.

Mauerlat installation

Mauerlat is the basis for installing the roof. It is needed to distribute the mass of the roof over all load-bearing elements. It is usually created from wooden beams, and hardwood is used. The greater the mass of the roof and the more complex its configuration, the larger the cross-section of the Mauerlat. As a rule, craftsmen use pine beams with minimum parameters of 15 x 15 cm.

The installation of the Mauerlat takes place before the construction of the house. How to do:

Working with timber. It is measured and sawn to the required length. In the corner areas, the mauerlat is attached to each other using the “claw” method. To cut out a groove for fasteners, markings are made.
On the last laying line board formwork is created. It is filled with viscous concrete. Metal spiers are inserted into it to fasten the necessary timber.
After the concrete has hardened, a waterproof layer. Here you can use bitumen mastic or roofing felt.
Should treatment of timber with protective agents. You need antiseptics and a fire retardant with powerful penetration, as well as a moisture-proof varnish.
In the Mauerlat holes are marked and created for metal spiers. A marker will do for marking. To create - a drill.
timber is placed on these spiers and firmly secured with anchor-type bolts.

Important! Here you should not drill a lot of holes or use a lot of studs. This only reduces the strength of the base (mauerlat). Also, do not cut out places in it to attach the rafters.

Construction stages

Here it is imperative to follow the instructions and technology. The stages of work are as follows:

Pulls are placed. They are floor beams. At least two of them are required. Racks are placed on them. Specialists install a boardwalk on top of them. This way the rafter network is built more conveniently and safely.
Attaching the posts to the tie rods. More racks can be used. But excess weight for the structure is needed only when absolutely necessary. While the network is not stable, the racks are fixed for a while with vertical struts.

Step by step diagram:

To create a hip roof, a soft roof is usually used. It is easier to cover slopes with complex configurations. For such a roof, a continuous sheathing is prepared from layers of moisture-resistant plywood.

For fixing roofing material to sheathing special fasteners are used. Its composition: stainless steel with a rubber cap. The method of positioning the sheets is with an overlap of 10-15 cm. This creates protection against moisture ingress. The steeper the slope, the more you need to follow this method.
After laying the roof, the roof is insulated from the inside. You can create windows, a drain and even a chimney in it.

For the gazebo

A hip roof is an ideal option for private houses. Its competent creation is impossible without special skills, calculations, hard work and patience.

Hip roofs can also be created on smaller buildings, for example, gazebos. But only the following types of gazebos are suitable for such a roof:

Square shape. Here the roof is made up of four slopes - triangles of the same size. They connect at one point. The horse is not created. Scheme:

Rectangular shape. The roof is formed by two slopes - trapezoids and two slopes - triangles. At the top is a skate. It follows the long plane of the rectangle. Photo:

Mandatory building materials

We build a hip roof from the following materials:

Wooden beam. Suitable parameters: 10x10 cm or 15x15 cm. A power plate is formed from it, as well as vertical posts and puffs.
Boards. Required cross-section: 5x5 cm and 10x15 cm. Rafters are formed from them. Diagonal rafters require boards of greater length and thickness. Therefore, the option with double boards is popular.
Unedged boards. Required dimensions: 3x10 cm or 4x10 cm. The sheathing is mounted on them.
Reiki. Parameters: 3x3. They will serve as a counter lathing.
Wind board.
Board for cornice.

All wooden elements must be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.

Rafter network design

Scheme:

Creating a hip roof for a gazebo is also impossible without the stage of drawings and calculations. Calculated:

slope angle;
ridge height;
load (to determine the cross-sections of the rafters).

A drawing is made based on the calculated data. It reflects the parameters and relative positions of the components of the rafter network. It has many analogies with the rafter network used to cover a house. As can be seen from the diagram, the composition here is almost the same. There are just a few nuances:

Roof support and weight distribution- This is a function of the upper harness.
Step between standard rafters, which rest on top on the ridge girder, and on the bottom on the base (mauerlat), is as follows: 60 - 120 cm.
Narozhniki, forming a slope, are placed in increments of 60-80 cm.
There is no need for formwork or concreting.

Hip roof and bay window rafter system from Anton Weber:

Stages of erecting a hip roof on a gazebo

A gazebo with a hip roof is built according to the following rules:

The upper frame of the gazebo frame is strengthened. A board is needed here. You can also use two layers. The boards can be overlapped on top of each other. Along the longest side of the structure, a tie beam is mounted to the frame. The fasteners here are metal corners.

You need to retreat half a meter from the middle of this puff. Two meter stands are placed at this distance. Their verticality is maintained by temporary struts. Their tops are then fastened with a ridge girder.
Installation of standard rafters. If the run is 1 m, it is necessary to mount a pair of rafters on each side, along the edges of the run. There will also be a meter interval between them.

The sheathing is being laid. It should be solid. She is nailed down.
The roofing material is being cut. It is secured with galvanized fasteners (screws). The joints are covered with sealant.

The following is an example of a well-designed hip roof on a gazebo:

How to create a project

The author of the blog “Do it yourself frame bathhouse in the village!” talks about creating a project for a hip roof for a bathhouse in the SketchUp program.

The desire to make a roof with your own hands can only be welcomed, but even a simple gable roof requires serious skills in working with wooden frame elements. Building a hip roof with your own hands on the first try, without any practical experience, is no less difficult than making the foundation of a two-story house or laying the box of a building made of sand-lime brick.

But, unfortunately, there is no other way to acquire valuable skills other than to take part in the practical construction of a hip roof with your own hands. Most knowledge has to be gained through practice, so the information below will help you avoid making serious mistakes in the first place. An ordinary garden gazebo or a small shed is suitable for this, but it is still better to learn from real masters on the hip roof of real objects.

Preparing to install a hip roof

For normal work on installing a hip roof, you need to establish good personal contact with the nearest decent construction company that has its own carpentry shop. Be prepared for additional orders for pine beams and 50 mm boards, since, most likely, there will be enough defects in cutting beams and rafters when working with your own hands. The overconsumption of construction wood on a hip roof due to the lack of experience in doing it yourself will be at least 5-7% of the amount of material included in the estimate.

We will make the hip roof step by step in approximately the following order:

We will install the Mauerlat on the walls with our own hands;
We will lay the floor beams;
We will install the ridge beam of the hip roof on vertical supports;
Let's assemble pairs of diagonal rafters into a hip triangle with our own hands and secure it to the ridge beam;
We sequentially install the flanges on each of the hip roof planes;
We will install ordinary rafters and struts;
Let's do the sheathing of the hip roof decks with our own hands.

Why you should do the work yourself on a hip roof in this sequence can be found out in more detail in the video

Important! It is better to do most of the operations of measuring, cutting and installing each element from start to finish with your own hands, without breaking it down into operations, for example - one measures, and the other cuts and installs a beam on a hip roof. This is the only way to ensure the proper level of quality of work.

Installing a hip roof

The most common way to build a hip roof is to install its rafter system and frame on a prepared floor made of rectangular timber. A set of beams is laid directly on the Mauerlat. It is better to secure the Mauerlat boards themselves with your own hands using anchor bolts on waterproofing mastic.

We lay the beams with our own hands in increments of 60-65 cm. The outer beams do not reach the walls by about half a meter, so additional short beams 110 cm long have to be laid on the wall.

To securely fix the floor beams from a short beam, we will make a small device from a corner with our own hands. To do this, we hammer short pieces of reinforcement into the wall, with which we will attach the Mauerlat under the hip roof. We weld pieces of steel angle bent into the letter G with our own hands to the extended and bent sections of metal. A shelf width of 4 cm is quite enough to securely fix the entire set of floor beams under a hip roof using self-tapping screws and nails. In the video, individual elements of the hip roof can be viewed in more detail.

To increase the transverse rigidity of the floor, we will cut out with our own hands and insert short jumpers between the beams in a checkerboard pattern. It is better to fasten the jumpers using corners and self-tapping screws. We cover the ends of the beams around the perimeter of the roof with magpie boards. We pay special attention to ensuring that all four corners of the overlap are in the same plane, and that there is no raising or lowering of the corner points of the connections.

Attention! In each of the corners, we cut it out of timber to size with our own hands and install an additional diagonal strength element. In the future, the heel of the diagonal rafter of the hip roof will be installed on it, so we align its position and fasten it with the utmost care.

Installing ridge beams and diagonal rafters

The next step is to build a so-called hip roof bench, consisting of a three-meter ridge beam supported by three vertical posts. To do this, mark the midlines and find the center of the foot of the building. The middle beam will be located exactly in the middle, the other two posts will be a little more than a meter away from the center.

We cut out and lay the ridge beam of the hip roof onto the posts. We choose the cross-section of the beam the same as that of the vertical posts. This design is quite unstable, so we nail two boards to each rack, working like struts.

Before we begin installing corner or diagonal rafters, let’s do a small calculation of the length of the slanted rafter leg of the hip structure. To do this, we measure with our own hands the length from the middle of the support in the corner sector of the floor to the nearest vertical “bench” beam and the height of the support itself. Using the geometry formula, we obtain the “rough” length of the diagonal roof beam. The calculation process is complex, so you can first try your hand at the frame of a hip roof for a gazebo or similar structure.

There is one reliable way to accurately determine the length of the hip rafter leg with your own hands. For this, a six-meter construction tape is used, with which the distance is measured from the top point of the end of the ridge girder to the middle point of support in the corner of the floor. What follows is exactly how, in the video, you can cut the corner on the top of the hip rafter with your own hands so that it fits as tightly as possible to the ridge without gaps.

In this case, the accuracy and quality are much higher than when using a template for a hip rafter.

Without fail, we cut out and install two additional elements: supports on the diagonal beams and struts holding a pair of corner rafters and a ridge girder, until the second pair of corner rafters of the hip roof is assembled and installed on the opposite side.

Important! Before fastening the diagonal beams, you should accurately align the angles between them and the correspondence of the inclination of the left and right hips.

If this is not done, the roof will have slightly different angles of inclination of the slopes, thus, with our own hands, we will ruin the appearance of the hip structure completely and irrevocably. We fasten two diagonal beams to the ridge using self-tapping screws, nails and metal plates. We transfer the previously installed supports under the corner rafters to a point located at a distance of a quarter of the length from the corner to the vertical post.

Installation of external and ordinary rafters

The extensions are installed in the same way as diagonal beams, alternating the supports in a checkerboard pattern. You can see the installation process in more detail in the video:

Despite the information about the length of each cutout, gleaned from the drawing, the workpiece has to be tried on and cut many times until we get to the desired size and angle of the cut.

When installing external rafters, we control the level of deflection of the diagonal beam, and if the selected cross-sectional size of the beam for the slanted rafter turned out to be small, we must strengthen it by stuffing an additional board on top - forty. Often, diagonal beams, due to their considerable length and heavy load, are immediately made from two 50 mm boards.

Next, we install ordinary rafters. In the upper part, we cut out a support groove on each of the two paired row rafters and rest them on the ridge beam. From the bottom side, using a square and a pencil, we mark the cutting angle and trim the edge of the beam so that it fits smoothly onto the floor beam. We align the marked and cut ordinary rafters in pairs and align them so that each of the slopes forms an almost flat plane. When finished, we secure the exposed beams with self-tapping screws and begin sewing together the frame of the hip roof with nails and metal plates.

Final work

After installing the ordinary rafters, we check and make sure that the geometry of the diagonal beams, their relative position and angles of inclination have not changed. After this, we go through all the fastening points, both on the diagonal and on the row beams of the hip roof, once again and reinforce them with screws, nails and wood overlays and treat them with anticorrosive.

Conclusion

Assembling a hip roof, even if it is a gazebo in a garden or park, requires scrupulous alignment of the geometry of all elements. Without the skill to correctly cut and position each element of the frame, taking on such work only with your own hands, without the help and advice of a specialist, is a futile task. All the same, this will lead to errors that will certainly appear in the design of the hip roof over time.

How to make a hip roof at home
Waterproofing and vapor barrier of roofing under corrugated sheets
Installation of Döcke gutters
Technical characteristics of bituminous shingles

One of the most unusual Russian latitudes is still considered to be a hip roof - a structure with four inclined slopes. At the same time, any private house with such a stylish top looks European-quality.

Have you settled on this option? Then, if you have never delved into the features of the structure of such a roof, we will try to reveal to you in as much detail as possible all the secrets and features of its structure, hidden pros and cons that few people know about.

And this is important, because How well the roof of a house is constructed depends on how effectively it will cope with its task of maintaining the comfort and safety of the household!

A hip roof is a four-slope rafter system, where two end slopes are necessarily triangular in shape and are called hips, and longer ones can be either triangular or trapezoidal.

A hip roof differs from a gable roof in that it does not have gables, and therefore there are no straight windows - only inclined ones. Such dormer windows are necessary to properly illuminate and ventilate the attic.

The classic hip roof has a high angle of inclination. Although there is also a deviation from this statement: some modern materials make it possible to build hip roofs with a minimum angle of inclination, which even seem flat from the street side.

Here is an interesting high-quality video on this topic:

Questions of style and design: is it suitable for every home?

With skillful selection of roofing material, a hip roof looks especially stylish and has an architectural expression. These are very popular in European countries, and it is from these tops of houses that one can recognize the flavor of a Scandinavian or Swedish town.

The hip roof is ideal for European-style houses, especially those with blue, grey-blue or chocolate colored roofs. And, by the way, among professional designers and architects it is believed that it is not very successful to install a bright hip roof on a house - this is a sign of lack of taste.

As for aesthetics, a hip roof looks rather ridiculous for a large multi-story building, because such a high superstructure (if the roof can be called that) makes the structure even more bulky. As an exception, let's just name a French chateau or projects similar in size.

Four stingrays in all their diversity

Let's look at the main types of hip roof:

Classic hipped. Its design uses straight rafters, and corner ribs extend from the ridge. In this design, the overhangs are located at the same height.
Dutch half hip. Here the opposite slopes have already been shortened, by about 1.5-3 times. This design is good for installing vertical windows in the attic, which are usually sorely lacking.
Danish half hip. This design has vertical gables, below which an end slope is mounted. Triangular windows often serve as pediments here.
Broken strong-willed hip design. These are slopes of different sizes, which are also at different angles. Such a roof looks voluminous, and it makes more efficient use of the area of the internal attic. But its design and installation are a little more complicated than the classic one.
And finally hip roof. This can only be installed on a house that has a square shape. In this case, all the slopes have the correct shape of an isosceles triangle, and all the ridges converge at one point from above.

Also one of the popular types of hip roof is L-shaped. For the first time such a roof appeared in Italy, back in the 19th century. And over time, in the USA, when houses began to be built in the ranch style.It has four slightly inclined slopes, which form the outline of the letter “L” due to the perpendicular connection to each other.

This is simply an ideal option for a home that needs to be protected from strong winds. In addition, in hot weather, the protruding visor perfectly covers it from the sun's rays. Finally, due to the continuity of the eaves of an L-shaped hip roof, gutters are fairly easy to install.

After all, such architecture has its own secrets: the canopy of the veranda always follows the contours of the large wing of the L-shaped roof. In this case, such a roof looks just great!But there are also disadvantages to this design - a reduction in the area of the attic space, and quite significantly.

As you can see, each form has its own advantages, both in terms of style and aesthetics. This is exactly what the hip roof is all about: how to do the project correctly, whether it is worth leaving small gables at the bottom or at the top, like the Danish and Dutch roofs, not a single architect can tell you. Focus only on your own sense of comfort and what content and design you will have in the attic.

Advantages and disadvantages in terms of functionality

Due to the complexity of construction, a hip roof is considered one of the boldest choices.Among the disadvantages, we note the higher cost of materials than that of a gable or single-pitch roof, the increased labor intensity of laying roofing materials and the need for precise knowledge.

It is also believed that it is in the hip roof that the internal under-roof space is more developed and there is much less space left for putting furniture or appliances there. And now - about the advantages.

The modern design of a hip roof with reliable fastening of roofing materials makes it possible to achieve high resistance to air flow, since there are no vertical walls. Therefore, in regions with strong winds, both the roofing and the rafter system itself are much less susceptible to destruction.

Also, the hip roof also perfectly withstands heavy rainfall and snow caps and therefore is ideally suited for areas with unfavorable weather conditions. The whole secret is that the corner ribs have increased rigidity, due to which the roof itself is not subject to significant deformation, unlike a gable roof.

If large overhangs are installed around the entire perimeter of a hip roof, the façade of the building will always be reliably protected from getting wet, whereas this effect cannot be achieved with either a pitched or gable roof.

Another important point: due to the fact that the surface planes of the slopes are almost identical and quite large, the attic space under the roof warms up evenly, thanks to which a pleasant temperature regime is created in it. This is how the right choice of roof shape solves one of the most pressing problems in one fell swoop!

Hip roof construction process

Now a little about the process of building such a roof. It begins with the installation of vertical supports; a ridge girder is mounted on top of them. After this, measure the resulting horizontal line and proceed to the installation of slanted diagonal rafters.

To do this, follow these instructions:

Step 1. The lower part of the rafters at the cutting site is connected to the strapping beams at the corners of the building, and the upper parts are fastened together using a ridge beam. At the same time, there should be special corner cuts at their ends, which will allow achieving the tightest possible connection.
Step 2. The exposed rafters need to be reinforced with vertical additional supports, the upper end of which should be sawn at the same angle as the slope of the rafters.
Step 3. The supports and rafters are fastened together with metal plates.
Step 4. Now we install the rafters of the side roof, in increments of 600 mm. This step fits perfectly under most standard insulation.
Step 5. The lower part with the recess must be secured to the strapping beam and secured with metal staples.
Step 6. The next step is to install the side roof rafters, the installation pitch is 600 mm, this step is preferable, since most standard insulation has this width. We proceed in a similar way here.
Step 7. The lower part with the recess is attached to the strapping beam; metal brackets or corners can be used for fixation. The upper ends are connected above the ridge purlin using plates. To ensure that the rafter fits as tightly as possible to the ridge girder, make a small notch on it at a right angle.

The following illustration will reveal this process in more detail:

The final step is the installation of shortened rafters, which are also called rafters. The pitch is the same, 600 m. One side of them should rest on the strapping beam, and the other should be connected to the slanted diagonal rafter.

In the middle of the hip slope there will be a central flange, which, according to the rules, must immediately adjacent to both legs of the corner rafters. At the end of their upper part there should be a double Mauerlat along the perimeter of the entire outer roof.

In such a system, the child's diagonal bevels have the longest length and serve as the main mowers. For such rafters, the length of a standard beam is not enough, and therefore the corner ribs are made from paired overlapping beams.

In this case, ordinary rafters are attached to the mauerlat perpendicularly. Additionally, for strength, they are tightened with crossbars and a tie. To secure the racks on both sides, struts are used.

There is also such an additional detail as a sprengel - a special piece that comes from the corner of the Mauerlat and connects the walls with an angle:

Read more about the hip roof rafter system.

Stage II. Laying the base

Each roofing material dictates its own requirements for the foundation. Thus, a frequent sheathing is suitable for modern tiles, a sparser sheathing is suitable for long seam sheets, and for soft and rolled coverings, continuous and even slopes are generally required, as here:

At the same time, other types of roofing require durable sheathing, which is calculated using special formulas. In the classic version it looks like this:

Stage III. Water and wind insulation

To ensure waterproofing of a hip roof, we advise you to take a durable modern membrane that is equipped with two self-adhesive tapes. They are located on the inside of the roll and provide reliable protection against leaks.

Firstly, this significantly reduces the cost of laying the material, because there will be no need to purchase special roofing tape to seal the overlaps.

Secondly, on the ridge it will be easy to throw the membrane over the ridge to another slope, and then simply press it there. This is an important point if you are building a hip roof with your own hands and do not have a whole team of specialists helping you.

Then it’s really worth thinking about ease of use, especially at altitude.In this case, professional roofers simply cut the membrane, turn the roll 180 degrees and continue installation directly on the opposite ridge - that’s all the secrets.

There is also piece waterproofing on sale, which is already attached to the insulation in advance for convenience:

Stage IV. Fastening roofing material

The easiest way to work on a hip roof is with flexible tiles, but most of all in Russia they like to cover it with modern metal tiles:

In the first row, the first sheet is placed at a distance of 150 mm from the ridge beam, and subsequent tiles are laid towards the other ridge.
Next, the sheets are fixed on the plane, and all subsequent rows are laid at the same distance from the ridge beam.
To close small gaps between the whole roofing sheet and the ridge beam, cut sheets of tiles are used.

By the way, it is often said that when working with a hip roof, a large amount of waste appears. To avoid this, cut or bend each sheet for the ridge in advance. This will fill in the gaps that have formed.

If you have chosen ceramic or composite tiles as your roofing material, do not worry: you can handle this installation yourself!

Let us separately dwell on how to lay natural tiles on a hip roof. With such a roof covering, the hip structure looks simply amazing, and in fact the installation process itself is not that complicated.

Let's step by step:

Step 1. For ceramic tiles, you will need additional wooden holders that need to be mounted before installation. These are sheathing bars that should be secured to each of the four ribs and to the ridge.
Step 2: Secure the wedge board under the gutter and flashing.
Step 3. Install a wide wind board, which must be installed on the ends of the rafters, pre-cut at an angle.
Step 4: Screw brackets to the wedge board to secure the gutter.
Step 5. Attach a metal apron that will protect the edge of the overhang from rain. If you wish, you can screw an aero-element-comb onto it for complete ventilation of the under-roof space.
Step 6. We move on to installing the tiles, for which we will need wind hooks and a hammer. Lay the tiles from bottom to top and press with clamps.
Step 7: Tape the hip roof ridges with micro-perforated aluminum tape.
Step 8. Secure the shaped hip element to the ridge and ridge of the roof using a special adhesive sealant.
Step 9. At the beginning of the row on the gable eaves, as at the end, use side shingles. Screw it to the sheathing using screws.
Step 10. Seal the junction of the roof to the chimney pipe using self-adhesive tape. Secure its upper edge with an aluminum clamping strip using dowels.
Step 11: Seal the joint with flexible weatherproof sealant.

There are, of course, more complex projects, but if you visually divide such a house into separate parts, then it will not be difficult for even a novice builder to cope with each one.

The main thing is to properly arrange the valleys and junctions:

Stage V. Insulation of the roof from the inside or outside

Spread a vapor barrier on the rafters and screw the supporting beams under the roofing. Attach a thick beam to the bottom of the rafters, which will support a layer of insulating boards.

Install insulation. If you are using rigid polystyrene foam, join it into a continuous layer using tongues and grooves. On the ridges where you need to adjust the slabs, cut them into the desired shape using a regular hacksaw. Glue all overlaps and cover the slabs with additional film. Next, screw the counter-lattice on top.

Of course, installing a hip roof is not so simple, but the result will definitely please the eye!

The hip roof is characterized by a large number of advantages, among which are attractive geometry, uniform heating and protection of the structure from precipitation. Even strong gusts of wind do not affect such a structure, since it does not have gables. If we compare it with a gable roof, it can be noted that the likelihood of deformation of a hip roof is much less. It would take a very long time to list the advantages of such a roof, but we must not forget that the hip roof rafter system is a rather complex structure. This fact can be a significant reason when choosing the type of roof. Despite this, private developers very often build a hip structure, due to its similarity to a hip frame.

Some features of a hip roof

When comparing a hip and gable roof, you can immediately notice that the hip roof structure does not have vertical gable walls. They are replaced by triangular slopes located at the ends. Thanks to this, the visual and actual volume of the roof is significantly reduced. On the economic side, the benefit of this is a controversial issue, since when cutting large sheets of roofing material into hips, there is an increase in costs.

Like any structure, a hip roof is conventionally divided into simple geometric shapes. The simplest option has symmetrical slopes: two in the form of a trapezoid and two in the shape of a triangle. That is, the entire structure consists of four slopes, which served as the basis for the parallel name - hipped roof.

The side section of a hip roof is similar to a conventional gable roof in the shape of a triangle. Upon visual inspection in profile, you can see a trapezoid, which is conventionally divided into a rectangle with expanded triangles adjacent to the sides. The shape of the trapezoid is determined directly by the developer and depends on the ratio of the length of the ridge to the length of the eaves overhang. The part of the structure, which has the shape of a rectangle, is built on the basis of roofing standards for the construction of hanging and layered rafter systems.

The hips that replace the gables must be installed with a certain slope, since the design provides for their connection with the inclined sides of the trapezoid. It is the installation of hips that is the most difficult stage in the arrangement of a hip rafter system. For those who decide to do the work by analogy with the usual pitched method, we can say that nothing will come of it. The thing is that the length of the ridge girder does not correspond to the length of the slope, therefore, the rafters of the hips in the upper part, as well as the adjacent triangular parts of the large slopes, remain without support.

As a support, the structure provides for the installation of special slanted rafter legs that connect the ridge beam and the corners of the structure. A look at the hip roof from above allows you to notice that the sloping elements are diagonals, for this reason their second name is diagonal. In addition, the design of the hip roof implies that the diagonal will become a support for rafters of different lengths, which are installed at right angles to the overhang. These different-sized elements are called narozhniki.

Thus, the main elements of the hip rafter system are:

Ordinary rafters of a hip roof, the lower part of which rests on floor beams or mauerlat. Depending on the type of support, the rafters can be hanging or layered.
Diagonal rafter legs needed to connect the corners of the roof and the edge of the ridge beam. Such elements can be used both for the convex corners of a hip structure, and when arranging the concave corners of valleys.
Spreaders are elements that create the plane of the hip and parts of the trapezoidal slopes that are adjacent to the diagonal rafters.

Description of diagonal rafters

Taking into account the location of the diagonal rafters, it can be determined that their length will be greater than that of ordinary rafters. In addition, being a support for the narodniks, they take on quite a large load. All this leads to the conclusion that the diagonal rafter legs should become reinforced. Most often, boards intended for ordinary rafters, but paired with each other, are used for this.

Paired mowers allow you to solve three problems simultaneously:

Increasing the load without the risk of deformation of the rafter system.
Obtaining a solid diagonal element (building up rafters leads to weakening of individual sections).
Reduced costs for installing the rafter system (two boards will cost much less than a solid beam).

A significant length of diagonal rafters requires the installation of additional supports, the number of which is determined by the length of the diagonal.

Supports for diagonal elements

The design of a hip rafter system, regardless of size, requires the presence of supports that strengthen the diagonal rafter legs. If the length of the slope is more than 9 meters, then the installation of at least two supports is required. Spans of shorter length can be supported by one support located in the upper part.

The support for diagonal rafter legs can be:

Vertical racks installed directly on the ceiling. If the floor is reinforced concrete, then a piece of waterproofing material must be placed under the stand.
Struts, which with their lower part rest against the bed and are located at an angle of 45 degrees, and the magnitude of the angle of inclination does not play a special role.
Sprengels, which are made in the form of the letter “T” upside down. This element is used in cases where the diagonal needs two or more supports (read also: " "). When installing, it is important to ensure that the base of the truss is perpendicular to the slope. In most cases, such supports are placed closer to the corner of the roof, that is, at the bottom of the slanted rafters.

Additional supports are best made from paired boards and installed in places where the greatest load is expected.

Design of reference points for rafter slopes

The upper part of the slanted rafter leg rests against the ridge beam. The design features of the hip roof allow you to do this in several ways:

If the roof structure has one ridge girder, then the slope rests on the ridge console.
If the rafter system has two ridge purlins and ordinary rafters made of boards, then the slopes should rest on the truss, the base of which rests on the ridge purlins.
If the design provides for the presence of two purlins, and the rafters are made of timber, then a hammer is used instead of a truss. This element is made from cutting boards more than 5 cm thick and connects ordinary rafters near the ridge.

Depending on the planting method, the upper part of the slope is trimmed. Diagonals can be fastened with nails, but reinforcement with twisted wire or a metal clamp is allowed.

In the lower part, the diagonal rafters of the hip roof, resting on the Mauerlat, are attached using metal brackets or corners directly to the Mauerlat or to a specially installed corner beam.

The device of the narozhniki

The hips and triangular parts of large slopes are formed by means of sprigs. At the top, the element rests on a diagonal rafter, at the bottom - on the mauerlat or floor beams.

Sprinklers are installed in two ways:

Using a notch. In the diagonal rafters, nests are cut out at a distance of 20 cm from each other, but it should be remembered that cutting the edges of adjacent slopes should not be done opposite each other.
Installation of cranial bars, which will act as supports for the sprigs. To do this, take 5*5 cm bars and pin them onto the lower part of the braid. This option is considered more effective, since cutting can weaken the strength and stability of the slope. In addition, the use of this method allows you to place the sprigs opposite each other.

The fastening of the spigots in the lower part is carried out by analogy with the installation of ordinary rafter legs.

Installation of a simple hip rafter system

The easiest way to build a hip roof is to purchase a ready-made rafter system and install it. But building a hip rafter system with your own hands will bring more pleasure and will allow you to create a structure that matches the entire structure. To verify your own abilities, you can practice on small buildings, for example, erecting a hipped roof over a gazebo or summer kitchen.

Creating a simple hip roof takes place in several stages.

Stage 1. Creating a roof model and drawing up a project.

The construction of any structure is preceded by a design stage. This helps determine the shape of the structure and purchase the right amount of material. A simple hip roof does not require a complex drawing; it is enough to draw an approximate diagram of the hip roof rafters by hand.

To create a simple hip roof project, just follow the steps described in the following instructions:

The parameters of the structure are determined, according to which an approximate drawing of the roof in profile and frontal view is drawn up. In order for the drawing to correspond to real parameters, it is necessary to select a scale; most often they choose 1:25. This means that the size should actually be divided by 25.
The drawing of the roof contour helps to choose the optimal roof height, and in several options. For the most suitable pattern, the angle of inclination of the slopes is measured.
Next, in the figure, the installation points of the layered rafter legs are marked, and each side must be divided into equal sections. The pitch of the hip roof rafters should be optimal so as not to increase the consumption of building material, but also not to strengthen the structure with additional counter-lattice.
The next step is to determine the length of the skate. It should be remembered that this part of the structure must connect a whole number of trusses. On both sides of the long side you need to set aside equal pieces.
Based on the drawing, the required amount of material is calculated.

The number of fastening elements is determined by the number of rafter legs, taking into account all the nodal fastenings. For each rafter you need to purchase two corners. It is best to buy boards with a small supply so that it is possible to eliminate accidental errors in construction. If the structure is being built on a concrete or brick box, then care should be taken to purchase timber from which the Mauerlat for the hip roof will be constructed.

Stage 2. Installation of the main part.

Installation of the hip rafter system begins with the installation of the ridge part:

Directly in the middle of the walls to which the hips will adjoin, one board at a time is nailed. A construction cord is pulled between them, which must run strictly along the central axis.
Two rafters are placed at one of the ends of the building; their intersection should pass under the cord. Mark the cutting line of the upper heel of the rafter leg, taking into account the ridge purlin, about 5 cm thick. The necessary part of the element is cut down so that the envelope roof is of the required shape.
The remaining rafters are sawn according to the completed workpiece. It should be remembered that when constructing a hip roof with hanging rafters, the length of the eaves overhang is taken into account.
Trusses are assembled from two rafter legs and fastened to one nail.
A ridge beam is installed across all trusses and rafters are nailed to it.
In the lower part, the layered rafters are attached to the mauerlat, the hanging rafters of the hip roof are attached to the floor beams. In both cases, fastening is performed using metal corners.
Previously nailed auxiliary boards can be removed as they are no longer needed.

Stage 3. Construction of hip slopes.

The rafters of the hip part are fastened by analogy with ordinary rafter legs: the top is fixed with nails, the bottom is fixed with corners to the mauerlat or top log.

Installation is performed as follows:

Place the first diagonal rafter and place a mark at the cut site. In this case, the lower part of the element should be located in the corner of the roof.
The element is sawed off along the intended line and fixed: the top with nails, the bottom with corners.
The remaining diagonal rafters are installed according to a similar pattern.
To fill the hip slope, the flaps are tried on and installed individually.
After this, they proceed to the installation of the main ramps.

After installing all the elements of the rafter system, do the following: using twisted wire, every second rafter is tied to a log of the second row or to wooden plugs that were previously laid in the walls. In addition, twisted wire can be embedded in brickwork or between blocks during the construction of walls. It should be remembered that from the top to the location of the twist there must be at least three rows of bricks or two rows of blocks.

The finished rafter system is covered with lathing. If the coating is soft, then the sheathing should be solid boards, plywood or OSB boards. Rigid roofing materials can be laid on a sheathing made of timber, nailed at a certain pitch.

Construction of a complex hip roof

The frame of a complex hip roof is erected in a similar sequence, but with minor modifications. For example, diagonal rafters should be fixed in a more durable way, with the installation of additional supports. The ridge part is installed after installing the support frame, which includes a bed at the bottom and a ridge girder at the top.

It is much more difficult to erect a hip roof truss system than a conventional gable roof structure. However, a hipped roof looks more attractive both over the house and over a light building.

Having tested your strength in erecting a hip roof over a gazebo or other domestic building, you can achieve good results in independently building a hip roof over a residential building.

Hip roofs offer an impressive list of compelling benefits. These include an impressive shape, uniform heating and reliable protection of the house from precipitation. Due to the absence of gables, hip structures are not subject to significant wind loads. Compared to gable options, there is much less reason to fear deformation.

The list of advantages can be continued, but their flow is slowed down by a very compelling circumstance: the rafter system of the hip roof is not pleased with the simplicity of the device. However, complexity will not stop an independent builder if he is familiar with the nuances of constructing a hipped frame.

Hip roofs differ from their gable counterparts in that there are no vertical gable walls in their design. The place of the pediments was taken by triangular slopes located at the ends, significantly reducing the real and visual volume of the roof.

The economic effect of reducing volume is a controversial issue. When cutting large-sheet material into hip slopes, costs, on the contrary, increase. For example, laying corrugated sheets will force you to fork out for the purchase of a covering one and a half times more than for arranging a standard pitched structure.

Purchasing piece material will allow you to reduce the construction budget, because you won’t have to spend money on cladding the ends of the roof.

By analogy with any building structure, a hip roof can be divided into simple geometric shapes. In the simplest version, without mates and valleys, it has two pairs of symmetrical slopes: two triangles and two trapezoids. On this basis, the hip roof received the parallel name “hippable”.

Viewed from the front, its cut resembles an ordinary triangular gable roof. In profile, the structure has a trapezoidal configuration, which can also be divided into a rectangle with two mirror-image triangles on the sides.

The shape of the trapezoid depends on the architectural preferences of the owner. It is determined by the ratio of the length of the eaves overhang to the length of the ridge. The part of the structure, limited by a rectangle, is constructed in accordance with hanging or layered roofing technology standards.

The hips that replaced the gables are installed at a certain angle to the horizon, because they must adjoin the inclined sides of the trapezoid. It is in their design that the main problem with the hip rafter system lies, because it will not be possible to install it using the usual pitched method. After all, the ridge run does not completely cover the slope. Therefore, the rafter legs of the hips and the triangular parts of the large slopes associated with them literally have nothing to rest their upper heels on.

The support for them will be special slanted rafter legs connecting the ridge girder with the corners of the structure. If you look at the hip rafter structure from above, the slanted rafters will look like diagonals.

The installation direction was the reason for receiving the second technological name - “diagonal”. Naturally, rafter legs of different lengths will rest on the diagonals, because They are installed perpendicular to the roof overhangs. They have their own name - narozhniki.

Summarizing the information, we get that the construction of a rafter frame for a hip roof will involve:

Ordinary rafter legs, resting with the lower part on the mauerlat or on the floor beams. Depending on the type of support, they can be hanging or layered.
Diagonal rafters connecting the corners of the roof and the edges of the ridge girder. Note that they are used not only in the construction of convex corners of hip roofs, but also in the construction of concave corners of valleys.
Narozhniki, forming the planes of the hips and parts of large slopes adjacent to the slanted rafters.

The installation of hanging and layered rafter legs is carried out according to the rules according to which it is constructed. We will deal with their diagonal brothers and the rafter half-legs.

Diagonal rafter legs

Taking into account the diagonal arrangement, it is easy to guess that the length of the slopes is longer than the length of ordinary rafter legs. In addition, they serve as supports for narodniks. As a result, sloped rafters are loaded one and a half times more than ordinary analogues. Therefore, it is customary to make them paired from two boards with a cross-section equal to the same size of material for ordinary rafter legs.

Pairing sloping rafters simultaneously solves three technical problems:

Allows you to increase the load without risk due to the double cross-section of the load-bearing element.
Provides the opportunity to obtain a diagonal structural element of any length without areas weakened by extension.
Eliminates the need for targeted purchase of timber for sloped rafters.

Due to their length, diagonal rafters require additional supports, the number of which depends on the length of the rafter leg.

Supports for diagonal rafters

Regardless of the scale of construction, any scheme for a hip roof rafter system includes supports to strengthen the diagonal rafter legs. If the design size of the slope is more than 9 m, i.e. it covers a span of equal meters, its stability is ensured by two additional supports. For smaller spans, one support located in the upper span zone is sufficient.

The following can be used to support a diagonal rafter:

Rack, installed vertically directly on the ceiling. A piece of waterproofing is laid between it and the ceiling if the rack is to rest against a reinforced concrete slab.
Strut. It is installed, as befits braced rafters, at an angle, the size of which can vary from 45º to 53º. The magnitude of the slope is not particularly important. It is important that the strut itself supports the rafters in the most loaded area. The lower heel of the strut is rested on the bed.
Sprengel. It is a T-shaped short beam made of timber, turned upside down. Used in the construction of large spans that require two or more reinforcing supports. The truss is installed so that its base is perpendicular to the rafter. It is located at the bottom of a large span closer to the corner of the roof. Instead of a truss, a regular short stand can be used.

Additional supports are made, again from a double board or block, and installed at the most loaded points.

The video review will introduce you to the nuances of installing supports for a hip roof frame:

The nuances of supporting rafters

The top heel of the diagonal rafter rests on the ridge purlin in various ways. The choice of method depends on the design features of the rafter system:

In rafter structures with one purlin along the central axis of the roof, the diagonal rafter legs rest directly on the purlin consoles.
In rafter systems with two purlins and plank rafter legs, the diagonal rafters rest on a truss, which in turn rests on both purlins.
In rafter frames with two purlins and rafters made of timber, in addition to the sprengel, a sprengel is used - a short piece of board that sews together ordinary rafter legs in the ridge area. The thickness of the reinforcing short is 5 cm or more.

The heel of the diagonal rafters for landing on one of the listed upper stops is trimmed in fact. Fastening is done with nails. If necessary, you can strengthen the fixation with wire twists or metal clamps.

The lower heels of the slopes can be rested against the corner of the mauerlat or a specially installed corner beam. You can simply lean on them. The diagonal rafter legs are fastened with metal brackets, nails on top of a wooden overlay, or corners.

Narozhniki and methods of their construction

Narozhniki form the hips and triangular parts of large slopes. The top of the half-leg rests on a slanted rafter, the lower heel on a mauerlat, a mortise beam or a wooden floor beam.

Installation of spigots can be carried out:

By cutting. In slopes, nests are chosen so that the half-legs of adjacent slopes are not located opposite each other. It is recommended that the distance between cuts be at least 20cm. Therefore, during the installation step, the setters are allowed to move so as not to cut out the nests at one point.
By installing cranial bars, serving as supports for the half-legs. 50x50mm bars are built up along the lower edges on both sides of the diagonal rafter. Their presence makes it possible to avoid notches that significantly weaken the load-bearing element.

The second option is easier to work with and is preferable due to the increased rigidity of the structure. In addition, it absolutely does not oblige you to change the installation pitch of the half-rafters: they can be located opposite each other. The frames are attached to the mauerlat or beams using the same method as was used to install ordinary rafters.

Elementary hip rafter system

The easiest way to crown a country property with a hipped structure is to purchase and install ready-made roof trusses. However, it is much more interesting, useful, and cheaper to construct a hip roof and a rafter system that matches it with your own hands.

Especially if it is planned to be erected over a small outbuilding, gazebo or summer kitchen. It is very worth practicing on simple structures before applying efforts to more important objects.

Note that in the example below there is no ceiling, the attic is not enclosed and there is no insulation. Snow practically does not linger on the slopes, i.e. the slanted rafter legs are subject to a minimum load by their standard standards. The principle of dispersal between drug addicts has not been preserved.

All nodal connections are made with nails and metal corners. The contractor will need a 5x25cm board for making rafters and purlins, as well as moisture-resistant plywood for constructing a continuous sheathing, because the building is planned to be covered with bitumen shingles.

Stage 1: Modeling and Design

Regardless of the architectural complexity of a building structure, it needs a design. It will help you decide on the optimal shape and save you from buying unnecessary materials. A simple hip roof with a standard rafter system will not require super complex drawings, but it is necessary to make at least a simple sketch.

Instructions for simplified design:

We measure the width/height/length of the building. According to the data, we draw the profile and full face of the building on a sheet of paper on a scale, for example 1:50. This means that all sizes will need to be divided by 50. That is. a wall of a house with dimensions of 5x2.5m will be depicted in a homemade drawing as a rectangle with sides 10x5cm. If it looks too small, you can choose a larger scale - 1:40, 1:25, etc. It is advisable to duplicate the finished sketch a couple of times as a reserve.
We choose the optimal roof height and the angle of its steepness. To do this, on one of the duplicates of the sketch, we draw several options for the outline of the roof. We determine the most successful one and measure the angle of inclination of future slopes with a protractor.
We mark the installation points of the layered rafters on the double sketch; this is a step. We need to divide both walls into equal sections. It is not necessary that the installation pitch under the hip and pentagonal slopes be the same. In the example, the distance between the rafter legs on both walls of the building is 20 inches, which is 50.8 cm. In fact, the installation step can vary from 0.4 to 2.1 m. However, we note that too often installed rafters will increase the consumption of material many times over, and too rarely will force the structure to be reinforced with an additional counter-lattice.
Let's decide on the length of the skate. Let's draw it on a duplicate of the template, taking into account that the ridge beam must connect a whole number of pairs of rafters. Let's set equal distances from both edges of the long walls.
We transfer all the results to the main sheet and calculate how much material is needed. We calculate the length of the rafters on the outer sides, taking into account the length of the eaves overhangs of 40-50 cm. We calculate plywood consumption by the number of solid panels per plane of a hipped roof.

Based on the number of rafters, we calculate the amount of fasteners. We will need nails in literally all nodal fastenings. There should be a pair of corners for each rafter leg. Don’t forget to buy a board with a small reserve in case of mistakes in your own work.

To install a hip roof on brick and foam concrete walls, you will need a block for constructing a mauerlat. It is not needed if the rafter system is installed on wooden walls.

Stage 2: Construction of the main part of the hip roof

First of all, we will build auxiliary scaffolding on the basis that between the plane of a homemade stand such as a high bench and the ridge girder, a full-length home craftsman should be placed.

The start of the installation of the rafter system for the future hip roof is the installation of the ridge part of the structure:

We nail an auxiliary board to the walls of the building adjacent to the hips, one edge of which should coincide with the central axis. We stretch a string between the boards, repeating the central axis.
We try on a pair of rafters at the end of the building. They should intersect directly under the lace. We outline the cut lines of the upper heels according to the fact, not forgetting that there will be a 5cm thick purlin between the rafter legs.
Using the templates obtained, we prepare layered rafters.
We install the rafter legs in pairs according to the marks of the main part of the system. Temporarily fasten with one nail.
We install the ridge run between the upper heels, which previously rested freely on each other.
We nail the rafters to the purlin.
We attach the bottom of the rafters to the mauerlat or upper crown of the house with metal corners.

We dismantle the auxiliary boards; we will no longer need them.

Stage 3: Construction of hip slopes

We fasten the hip part of the rafter system in the same way: the lower heels are attached with corners to the mauerlat or to the upper crown, the upper heels are secured with nails. We carry out the work in the following sequence:

We try on the first rafter to the slope, marking the actual cutting line. The lower part of the rafter must pass exactly through the corner marking point.
We saw off the marked excess. We nail the diagonal leg to the ridge console, fixing the bottom with corners.
We do the same with the other three braids.
We fill the hip slope with spigots, having first tried on each part in its proper place and sawed off the excess.
We install the pentagonal ramps.

At the end of the work, the rafters are screwed one by one with wire twists to the wooden plugs embedded in the walls or to the second crown, so that the structure is not torn off by a strong gust of wind.

There is a way to lay strands of annealed wire into the masonry during the construction process for subsequent fixation of the rafter system. On top of the twisted wire there should be three more rows of brickwork or two rows of foam blocks.

The sheathing is laid over the finished rafter system. In the case of using a soft roof, as in the above case, the sheathing is made of solid sheet metal, plywood or similar boards. A gap of 3 mm is left between the slabs or boards. For hard materials, the sheathing is constructed from a bar with the step recommended in the instructions.

Construction of complex hip roofs

The principle of constructing hip roof frames with more complex architecture is not much different from the example given. The sequence of work is exactly the same. True, it is still wiser and more reliable to fix layered rafter legs with the help of notches.

It is highly desirable to use supports for diagonal rafters. And before installing the ridge part, support frames are installed with a beam at the bottom and a ridge purlin at the top. Another change in the angle of inclination of the slopes when supported by a notch should be taken into account at the design stage.

How to build a more complex rafter system for an interesting hip roof, watch the video:

A hip-type rafter system is more complex than the frame of a conventional gable roof, but you can understand its structure. The hipped design is in many cases preferable; it looks more interesting both above houses and above gazebos and other domestic buildings. The described construction option will help you master the basics in the construction of hip structures, and if the result is successful, a continuation will certainly follow.

Today, many people, having decided to get their own home, believe that a do-it-yourself hip roof is the best solution. On the one hand, the installation process is not too complicated - even a person without extensive construction experience can cope with this task. On the other hand, such a roof looks simply great, much better than a regular gable roof.

In recent years, architects have been looking for new moves and improvements, and as a result, the hip roof has acquired many original varieties that bear very little resemblance to the original design.

In the classic version, such a roof consists of four planes connecting the eaves of the building with its ridge. Two of them are installed from narrow cornices - they have a triangular shape and are called hips. Therefore, the whole structure received its name from them. The other two planes are large and trapezoidal in shape.

Relatively recently, half-hip roofs, also called Dutch, have become widespread in our country. In this case, the cornices of the hips are located significantly higher than the cornices of the trapezoidal slopes. Most often, this technique is used in cases where they want to equip a spacious, cozy attic in the attic of a house. Such a roof looks much more attractive than a classic hip roof, but it is much more difficult to manufacture - in addition, you need to additionally build up the walls so that they form two walls of the future attic.

Hip Roof Design Basics

The hip roof design differs significantly from the usual one. Therefore, special attention should be paid to it - without knowing the theory, it is impossible to build a structure with your own hands.

For clarity, here is a suitable picture:

Here is the simplest type of hip roof. But, having understood its structure, you can begin to build more complex modifications.

It all starts with the corner rafters. For them, it is best to take a durable board with a cross-section of 50x150 mm. It is laid at a smaller angle than the intermediate rafters.
Short rafters are fixed not on the ridge beam, but on the corner rafter.
The cross-sectional size of the ridge should be no less than that of the corner rafters - it also bears a fairly large load, both permanent (from roofing material) and temporary (from snow, wind).
Rafters that converge on different sides and securely fix the ridge are called central - they must also have a serious margin of safety.
For intermediate rafters, thinner beams are usually taken - between them the load from the roof is distributed more evenly, which avoids overloads and failure of individual structural elements.

All this will be useful to remember for every person who wants to figure out how to build a hip roof with their own hands. As you can see, there is nothing particularly complicated here.

Guide to constructing a hip roof

Now let’s move directly to the question of how to build a hip roof with your own hands step by step. All work can be divided into several stages. We will describe each of them in as much detail as possible, so that even a person with no experience in the construction industry can understand this difficult issue.

Marking

As with any construction, it all starts with markings. Whether errors will be made during further work also depends on how correctly it is done.

It all starts with drawing the axes of the upper wall trim from the end side.
After this, half the thickness of the ridge run is determined - determine where and how the first element of the rafter system will be installed.
Using a long measuring stick, mark the locations of the intermediate rafter legs. You need to apply it to the previously marked line and continue along the wall.
To determine the required length of the rafter overhang, place one end of the beam on the outer corner, and the other on the roof overhang.
The next stage is determining the location of the central rafter leg. To do this, you need to move the marking strip to the edge of the side wall, we will determine how the central elements of the system will be located.

This procedure should be repeated on four sides of the building. As a result, you can easily determine where and how the ends and intermediate rafters will be laid.

Calculation

To quickly and accurately determine the length of the rafters, you will need the following table:

Having it at hand and knowing the planned angle of inclination of the roof slopes, you can determine as accurately as possible what length the rafters will have - after all, they are not located exactly, but at a slight angle. Well, in order to know how to make a hip roof with your own hands, you should remember that there are simply no details here.

Now use the Pythagorean theorem, known from school - A2 + B2 = C2. A and B in this formula play the role of horizontal and vertical projection of the rafters. Simply put, one leg is the distance from the mauerlat (on which the lower end of the rafters is attached) to the ridge - the highest point of the roof. The other leg is the distance at right angles from the ridge to the floor of the attic. Both segments can be easily measured using a ruler or tape measure. And knowing them, using the above formula, you can find out the approximate length of the rafters.

To get the most accurate value, increase it by a factor that matches the angle of your roof.

That's all. At this point, the calculation of the length of the rafters is completed and you can safely proceed to the next step - their installation.

Installation of rafters

Before proceeding with installation, make sure that the rafters have the same length and cut angle in the place where they will be joined to the ridge. Even a small error will lead to the fact that the entire rafter system will have to be disassembled and reassembled.

Install the ridge beam - it is fixed on the support posts. To fix other elements on it, use struts.
Connect the hips and sloped rafters to the ridge beam as carefully as possible - it is best to use long, thin screws for this.
When the installation of the rafter legs is completed, begin installing the rafter legs - the optimal distance between them is 60 centimeters. They are connected to the Mauerlat and the ridge by cutting. To increase the reliability of the connection, crossbars and ties are used.
Attach the rafters (short rafters) to the sloped rafters. It is through them that the slanted rafters will be connected to the Mauerlat. Make sure that the outer and ordinary rafters are positioned strictly perpendicular to the ridge beam.

Strengthening the truss structure

To strengthen the truss structure, you can use various options:

At the corners of the structure, trusses with vertical posts are attached - they will act as an additional support on which the slanted rafters will rest. They are fixed directly on the Mauerlat.
The racks are installed on the tightening board, which are supports for the intermediate rafters.
In cases where the length of the slanted rafter leg is large enough, it can be used to make stacked or glued beams.

Thanks to this reinforcement, the rafter structure can easily withstand any load - both from the roof and from snow or wind.

Ventilation

There is always moisture in residential attics. It rises along with warm air from the kitchen, bathroom, bedroom, living room. By condensing on the wooden elements of the rafter system, moisture can cause mold and even rot, which will reduce the reliability and service life of the entire house. To prevent this from happening, you need to take care of high-quality ventilation of the room.

The easiest way to do this is to make a hole in the film that protects the attic from the wind. The optimal location is near the ridge run. In addition, if wood is used for wind hemming, it is recommended to lay it with a small gap - 2-3 millimeters. If plastic material is used, small holes should be made in it.

If no gaps were provided when laying the wind roof, small ventilation grilles should be installed in it.

When installing ventilation grilles, it is advisable to place several grilles along the length of the windbreak with an interval of 0.8 meters. Only after this can you begin to lay insulation and waterproofing.

The last, final stage is laying the roof of the house with your own hands. This completes the work. Now you know how to install a hip roof with your own hands step by step and you probably won’t get confused when working.

Construction of a hip roof with your own hands. We build a hip roof: the process from “A” to “Z.” Do-it-yourself hip roof for a gazebo

Features of the hip design

What do you need to know before starting work?

Guide to constructing a hip roof

Marking

Calculation

Installation of rafters

Strengthening the truss structure

Ventilation

Video - DIY hip roof

Hip roof design

Advantages and disadvantages of the design

Roof calculation

Hip roof angle

Hip roof rafter spacing

Hip roof sheathing

Instructions for building a hip roof

Specifics of this type of roof

Rafters and supports

Calculations, drawings, projects

Mauerlat installation

Construction stages

For the gazebo

Mandatory building materials

Rafter network design

Stages of erecting a hip roof on a gazebo

How to create a project

Questions of style and design: is it suitable for every home?

Four stingrays in all their diversity

Advantages and disadvantages in terms of functionality

Hip roof construction process

Stage II. Laying the base

Stage III. Water and wind insulation

Stage IV. Fastening roofing material

Stage V. Insulation of the roof from the inside or outside

Some features of a hip roof

Description of diagonal rafters

Supports for diagonal elements

Design of reference points for rafter slopes

The device of the narozhniki

Installation of a simple hip rafter system

Stage 1. Creating a roof model and drawing up a project.

Stage 2. Installation of the main part.

Stage 3. Construction of hip slopes.

Construction of a complex hip roof

Diagonal rafter legs

Supports for diagonal rafters

The nuances of supporting rafters

Narozhniki and methods of their construction

Elementary hip rafter system

Stage 1: Modeling and Design

Stage 2: Construction of the main part of the hip roof

Stage 3: Construction of hip slopes

Construction of complex hip roofs

Hip Roof Design Basics

Guide to constructing a hip roof

Marking

Calculation

Installation of rafters

Strengthening the truss structure

Ventilation

Regular and irregular English verbs

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