Cesspool: sanitary and building codes and regulations. A cesspool made of concrete rings without a bottom - how to make it yourself What to make a cesspool from

The operation of the water supply system, bathroom and toilet of a country house requires the installation of a competent system for collecting and disposing of wastewater. And if, in the presence of a centralized sewerage system, it is enough to obtain permission and make a connection into the communal system, then if there are no benefits of civilization near the site, the problem of wastewater disposal will have to be dealt with independently. Currently, there are options for solving this issue, including factory cleaning systems, but the simplest option is still a cesspool - a structure that has been tested by more than one generation of homeowners. A waste tank of this type is good because it can be easily built with your own hands, and the emergence of new technologies and materials makes it possible to do this in record time.

Design Features

Depending on the design, any cesspool can be classified as a filtration (absorption) drainage structure or a sealed sewer tank. Sewage collectors of the first type ensure the absorption of wastewater into the ground, where it is decomposed by microorganisms into water and organic matter, while the latter are storage tanks that require pumping and removal of domestic wastewater from the site.

The costs of installing a cesspool will pay off handsomely: this structure will provide an urban level of comfort even far from civilization

Many online sources claim that the choice of one design or another depends on the daily amount of waste discharged. The authors recommend using sealed cesspools for volumes of more than one cubic meter per day. We consider this statement to be only partially true. Judge for yourself: the maximum depth of the structure is 4 m (otherwise the hose of the sewer truck will not be able to reach the bottom of the pit), while more than 1 m is spent on deepening the sewer line. Therefore, about 3 m of usable height remains. Even if the pit has an impressive diameter and volume of 5–6 cubic meters, it will have to be pumped out at least once a week. The filtration design will allow you to increase this interval by a third, especially since, if necessary, the process of pumping it out is completely no different from servicing a sealed container. The only thing that may hinder the construction of absorption pits is their low environmental friendliness, since a large amount of wastewater can pollute aquifers. If the hydrology of the site, as well as its size and landscape features allow the construction of any type of pit, then the filtration system will be unrivaled.

A feature of absorbent sewer collectors is the presence of a drainage layer

Sewage pits without pumping are characterized by the presence of side walls and a floor slab, while instead of a bottom, the structure is equipped with a crushed stone cushion. Thanks to it, wastewater is filtered from large fractions of sewage and absorbed into the ground. Often the walls of absorbent structures have perforations, which increases the absorption capacity of the pit. The cover of the structure prevents debris from entering the pit, avoids freezing of the sewage system in winter and protects against the spread of unpleasant odors. A hatch is built in the upper part of the structure, through which the level of wastewater is monitored and the pit is pumped out.

Design features of sealed and filtering sewage pits

The advantages of absorption containers are their simplicity and low cost. In addition, when using them, the operational interval between pumping out sludge and waste masses significantly increases. However, the presence of many shortcomings does not allow us to call this design ideal:

limited daily volume of wastewater;
impossibility of building a structure with a high groundwater level;
low degree of wastewater treatment;
decrease in filtration capacity during operation;
unpleasant odors around the building.

Despite these disadvantages, unsealed cesspools are attractive due to their simplicity and the ability to use materials that are often left over during the construction of a country house.

A factory-made plastic container is one of the most durable and simplest methods for arranging a sewer system.

Sealed sewer pits do not have the disadvantages of absorption structures, but require regular pumping of waste. They differ from filtration wells in that the bottom and walls of the containers are made waterproof, and their design involves the installation of a ventilation riser. The construction technology of both cesspools differs only in terms of sealing and has much in common. As for the choice of location, for hermetic structures the standards are more democratic, although they require thinking through access routes and arrangement of the site for the sewer truck.

The use of special bacterial agents can improve the efficiency of waterproof drainage structures. Bacteria process sewage into bottom sediment and water, which can be used to water the garden.

Selection of material for construction

The filtration pit can be built from whole or broken bricks, gas silicate blocks or concrete rings. Also, the walls of the structure are made of concrete, capacious iron containers without a bottom or old car tires are used. In short, any suitable materials will do for arranging a leaky structure.

For the manufacture of drain collectors of the second type, solid concrete structures are used, as well as sealed containers made of metal and plastic. In addition, you can build a pit in the traditional way - from brick or reinforced concrete rings, concrete its bottom and ensure the walls are waterproof.

Brick

Brick absorption pit

A waste tank made of brick is one of the most inexpensive and simplest options, especially if it is necessary to build a pit without pumping. Brick allows you to make the walls solid or with gaps, which increase the filtration capacity of the structure. The advantages of this design include the possibility of building a pit of any size and configuration. Brick absorption wells are not without the disadvantages inherent in any leaky systems - siltation and negative impact on the environment. In addition, masonry bricks are quickly destroyed under aggressive operating conditions, which causes a short service life of filtration systems - about 20 years.

From car tires

Used truck tires are a cheap and durable material for waste disposal without pumping out.

You can build a drainage system for the bathroom and toilet of a country house at minimal cost by using car tires as a building material for a soaking cesspool. To do this, it is enough to dig a pit of sufficient size and arrange a filter layer of crushed stone at its bottom. Tires installed one on top of the other form a durable structure that prevents the walls of the structure from collapsing.

As in the previous option, the negative aspects include a high probability of environmental pollution with wastewater and tire decomposition products, rapid siltation and a decrease in the efficiency of the system.

To increase the filtration capacity of the cesspool, spacers are installed between the tires. The resulting gaps work in the same way as perforations in concrete and brick pits, increasing the area of contact between wastewater and the soil.

Made from monolithic reinforced concrete

Concrete tank is one of the strongest and most durable sewer structures

This type of cesspool is a structure with concrete walls and a bottom, constructed by pouring concrete mixture into an installed sheathing. Despite the fact that such a container is considered the most reliable and durable, high labor costs do not allow this design to be called the best. Currently, this construction method is being replaced by ready-made sets of reinforced concrete rings and covers.

Made from concrete rings

Depending on the tightness requirements, concrete rings can have solid or perforated walls

Arranging a cesspool from cast concrete rings can only be partially classified as an inexpensive option. This is due to the fact that you will have to not only buy building materials, but also hire equipment for loading and transportation to the site. In addition, the installation of heavy reinforced concrete products will also require the use of lifting mechanisms (later we will tell you how, if you wish and have free time, you can get by with just a shovel). However, this option is the simplest and most durable way to construct both absorbent cesspools and sealed structures. Currently, reinforced concrete rings with perforated walls are produced, which are ideal for the construction of sewage collectors without pumping.

From metal and plastic containers

Even from an old metal barrel you can build a filtration pit, which will ensure the functionality of the sewage system of a country house

The easiest way to make a waste pit is to bury a plastic or metal container of suitable volume at a depth. Moreover, this method allows you to obtain both a sealed structure and an absorbent system. The difference between the second option and the first is the absence of the bottom of the container and the presence of perforations in the walls. In addition, in the latter case, you will have to additionally prepare the bottom of the pit by making a crushed stone filtration pad.

Project for a summer cottage

Those who think that the construction of a cesspool does not require preliminary calculations are mistaken. In order for the operation of the sewer system to take place without emergency stops, it is necessary not only to calculate the required volume of the sewer well and consider its design, but also to choose the right construction site.

Size of sewerage structure

The size of the cesspool depends primarily on the daily amount of wastewater, design (with or without pumping), operating mode (regular or periodic use), soil type and other factors.

To calculate a sewer tank without a bottom, the following factors are taken into account:

the volume of wastewater per family member when using a bathroom, toilet and washing machine is taken to be 200 liters. Depending on specific conditions, this figure is reduced to 150 l;
calculations are based on the maximum daily wastewater flow;
when determining the size of a cesspool, its volume must accommodate at least three times the daily amount of waste. That is, for a family of three people, the container must hold at least 1.8 cubic meters of liquid.

The dimensions of the sewer well are determined for reasons of convenience, taking into account that the depth must be measured from the point of entry of the sewer line into it. As for the proportions of the structure, its depth should be at least 2–2.5 times greater than the vertical dimensions (length, width or diameter). Due to the fact that the wastewater is purified by anaerobic bacteria and goes into the ground, the size of the absorption system will be sufficient for effective operation.

When determining the volume of a filtration cesspool, the composition of the soil on the site must be taken into account. Sands and sandy loams allow water to pass through perfectly, while clay or loamy soil requires a larger area of contact between wastewater and the soil, and therefore an increase in the size of the pit.

For the construction of a sewer storage tank, the same averaged data on drainage are used as in the case discussed above. In this case, the daily volume is multiplied by the interval between pumping in days. For example, if you plan to pump out a pit once every two weeks, then for a family of three its volume should be 150x3x14=6.3 cubic meters.

Most sewer trucks will be able to take away a little more than 3 cubic meters. m of wastewater, therefore, a comprehensive analysis of the arrangement of a large-volume wastewater tank is necessary

Before making a final decision about the size of the sewer structure, be sure to consult with the utility services or private individuals who pump the sewer. The fact is that the volume of most sewage disposal machines is 3.6 cubic meters, and only some models have a tank increased to 5–8 cubic meters. If your area is being served for the first time, then you need to carefully consider whether it makes sense to build a sewer with a larger capacity than the sewer can pump out. At the same time, it is necessary to provide additional space if the arrival of service vehicles may be difficult or irregular.

Choosing a site for construction

When choosing a site for construction, they are guided by the norms of sanitary and epidemiological legislation, construction SNiP and common sense. If you collect all the recommendations, you will get a rather long list. However, we advise you not to neglect the rules, since failure to comply with them is fraught with both ineffective work and inconvenience of sewerage maintenance, as well as administrative liability under the current Code of Administrative Offenses.

Restrictions on choosing a location for a cesspool

You should not place the cesspool at the very bottom of the site to avoid flooding or rainwater.
It is prohibited to install filtration structures if the groundwater level is less than 4 m.
The hole must be removed:
from the foundations of buildings - no less than 10 m;
from fences - more than 1 m;
from roads and trees - 4 m.
The distance from sources of drinking water should be:
for clay soils - at least 20 m;
for loams - at least 30 m;
for sands and sandy loams - from 50 m.
When choosing a location for a cesspool, be sure to take into account the possibility of access by a sewage truck.

Blueprints. Photo gallery

At the final stage of designing a sewer tank, a drawing of the structure is drawn up, indicating the dimensions and distances from nearby objects. In addition, the entry points of sewer lines and other design features are indicated. For those who consider such a structure to be so elementary that its design does not require “extraordinary body movements,” we recommend drawing up at least a simple sketch diagram. Believe me: it is better to correct mistakes made in pencil on paper than to redo a multi-ton reinforced concrete structure. The presented drawings of cesspools can be used in your project, adapted to specific sizes and conditions.

Drawing of a filtration wastewater structure Drawing of a sewer tank made of concrete rings Drawing of a sewer pit with overflow Drawing of a cesspool for a country toilet

Instructions for making sealed and filtration cesspools

Having decided on the location of the drainage pit and made the necessary calculations, they begin excavation work. If the sewer system is installed using a plastic or metal container, brick or concrete, then prepare a pit of the required dimensions. It is dug by hand or using earth-moving equipment.

An excavator will save time and effort when preparing a pit, but in some cases it will not be possible to use earthmoving equipment

For the construction of a sewer collector, the easiest way is to use the services of an excavator and a crane. However, there are cases when the use of equipment on a site is impossible for a number of reasons - there are no access roads, power lines are in the way, etc. In this case, they use the old method that our grandfathers used. One of the rings is put in place, climbed inside and, using a shovel with a short handle, the soil is removed, gradually removing the soil from under the walls. It is necessary to constantly monitor the level of the product, since it is important that the reinforced concrete element goes into the ground strictly vertically. After the upper cut of the structure is flush with the site, install the next ring and continue to remove soil until the desired depth is reached.

Required tools and materials

Depending on the design of the wastewater tank, before starting construction, prepare bricks, concrete rings or a prefabricated reinforced concrete structure with a lid, tires from trucks, boards for formwork, etc. In addition, you will need the following tools and materials:

cement and sand for preparing mortar;
small rubble and crushed stone for arranging the filtration layer;
metal rod or reinforcement for making a concrete cover;
a hatch with a frame or metal corners and metal for its manufacture;
waterproofing;
buckets and container for preparing the solution;
trowel, mason's hammer;
bubble level, cord and plumb line;
shovels and bayonet shovels.

If you are planning a large volume of concrete work, then it is best to use a concrete mixer, which you can borrow from friends or rent.

Brick building for a private house

For the construction of the sewer, red solid brick is used. It is best if it is burnt material, which is considered defective in production. Silicate products are not recommended for use due to their low resistance in a humid environment.

The work order is as follows:

After the pit is dug, its bottom is leveled and covered with a 50-centimeter layer of crushed stone or concreted, depending on the tightness of the structure. The last option is carried out with the installation of an armored belt that strengthens the concrete base of the drain collector.
Arrangement of the filtration layer
Perform wall masonry. Depending on the project, the structure may have a round, square or rectangular shape. The sealed container is laid entirely, with all joints carefully filled with sand-cement mortar. To make a pit without pumping, bricks are laid in a checkerboard pattern, increasing the filtration efficiency of the structure.
This is what the masonry of an absorption-type sewer pit looks like
It is better to make a window around the sewer pipeline with a side and top gap between the pipe and the masonry of 5 to 10 cm. This solution will not affect the tightness of the structure, but when the structure shrinks, this trick will save the pipe from damage.
The walls are laid out to a height below 20–30 cm from the level of the site, after which they begin to arrange the ceiling. To do this, install a sealed sheathing with a hole for a hatch on the pit, construct an armored belt, and fill the slab with concrete mortar. The frame and hatch cover can be purchased or made from scrap materials: pieces of metal corners, profile pipes and steel sheets.
Covering a sewer tank with a hatch for pumping out wastewater
The slab is covered with a layer of soil and compacted.
In regions with a harsh climate, the distance from the slab to the zero level of the site is increased to 50–60 cm. This allows you to fill the hole with a thick layer of soil, which prevents the sewage system from freezing in winter.

Video: secrets of building a brick pit

Sump pit made of reinforced concrete rings

Today, manufacturers offer rings in a wide range. You must understand that for the diameter of additional elements of more than 1.5 m, you will have to use lifting equipment, so the best option for making a cesspool with your own hands is products measuring Ø1×0.89 m. Together with the rings, you can purchase a concrete bottom and lid. This will reduce construction time to a minimum.

Table of standard sizes of reinforced concrete rings for wells and cesspools

Instructions for the progress of work:

By analogy with a brick structure, a filtering crushed stone layer is constructed at the bottom of the pit, a concrete pad is poured, or a factory reinforced concrete base slab is installed (if an excavator is used). At the same time, they must monitor the correctness of the work at the construction level.
3–4 rings are placed on top of each other, reaching the top level. If necessary, the desired height can be achieved with several rows of brickwork.
When installing large-diameter rings, you cannot do without lifting equipment
Using a hammer drill, holes are made in the concrete wall for sewer lines. We remind you that their size must ensure the integrity of the pipes during shrinkage.
If it is necessary to obtain a sealed structure, the joints of the rings are sealed with a solution, and after it dries, the outer surface is sealed using bitumen and other moisture-proof compounds, and the inner surface is plastered.
The design of imported rings will ensure the required tightness immediately upon completion of installation
Install or make your own floor slab.
When purchasing concrete rings, you can also purchase a finished floor. This will reduce construction time, but will lead to additional costs.
The structure is covered with a layer of soil.

Video: construction from concrete rings

Concrete pit made of monolithic reinforced concrete

A drainage well made of monolithic concrete provides excellent tightness and is one of the most reliable structures. Note that in this case it is better to dig the pit by hand. This will allow the sheathing to be installed on only one side and will reduce concrete consumption. Construction work is carried out in stages.

The bottom of the pit is leveled and compacted, after which a concrete screed at least 10 cm thick with internal reinforcement is made.
After the concrete has set, the side surfaces of the pit are covered with waterproofing material. This will avoid soil shedding during concrete work.
Installation of armored belt and pouring the base
At a distance of at least 4 cm from the walls of the pit, a vertical reinforced belt is mounted and the formwork is installed. It should be said that a wall thickness of 15–20 cm will be sufficient for a pit of any size.
If there are not enough boards for making sheathing, you can use sliding formwork.
Design of adjustable (sliding formwork)
Mortgages are installed to create openings for installing sewer pipes.
When pouring concrete, be sure to bayonet or compact it. This will remove air bubbles from the mixture and increase the strength of the structure.
A large pit will provide additional convenience during work, but will require the use of double-sided formwork
Sewage pipes are installed into the inlet openings and ventilation is installed.
Cover the top slab with soil and install a hatch.
Covering the cesspool. Pay attention to the outlet of the ventilation riser - for sealed waste systems this is a necessity

Video: drainage pit made of reinforced concrete

DIY cesspool made from vehicle tires

Tires from heavy trucks and buses are used to make the waste pit. Considering the width of the wheels, at least 8–10 tires will be required. The pit can be dug either manually or with an excavator. It is better to make its diameter 20–30 cm larger than the external dimensions of the tires. This will make their installation easier and will make it possible to increase the throughput of the absorbent system. In some sources you can find recommendations to remove the side surfaces of tires to increase the internal volume of the hole. We consider this statement to be incorrect, since it will make it difficult to install them on top of each other and reduce the strength of the structure. If we take into account that tire pits are used for absorbent systems, then it is easy to conclude that the area of contact of the liquid with the ground has priority over the volume of the container.

At a certain height, a hole is cut in the tire for the drain pipe

According to the installation method, the option with tires is identical to the method using concrete rings. The only thing I would like to note is the possibility of installing 5-6 spacers between two adjacent tires, for which you can use red brick. The gaps between the wheels will allow the filtration pit to work more efficiently. For the same purpose, the gap between the tires and the walls of the pit is filled with rubble or brick fragments, after which a ceiling is installed on the pit and covered with soil.

The walls of the pit can be strengthened not with rubble or bricks, but with the remaining tires. Such a solution will also increase the absorption capacity of the sewer system

You can increase the absorption capacity of holes without pumping by installing a drainage pipe with a height of more than 1 m and a diameter of at least 20 cm, which is dug halfway into the ground. Holes with a diameter of no more than 5 cm are made in its hidden part. Of course, the best material will not be metal, but plastic.

Video: tire pit in a country house

Decoration of cesspool installation sites. Photo gallery

Thanks to the layer of soil that is used to cover the roof of the cesspool, it is not difficult to hide it from view. To do this, shrubs are planted above the sewer, a flower bed is arranged, or a lawn is sown. To decorate sewer hatches, wooden and stone elements are used, showing ingenuity and imagination. Perhaps you can get an interesting idea from our photo gallery or use a ready-made solution on your site.

Garden stand mounted on the pit cover Lawn Decorative elements in the form of wooden circles Such a hatch is completely invisible against the background of the lawn. Decoration with natural materials Even a ventilation riser can be decorated gracefully and beautifully Aerobatics - use the place and create a real masterpiece of landscape design Installing an original shaped flowerpot with flowers Decoration with artificial stones Installation of decorative figures on the hatch - a mill, a well, a hearth

A huge variety of cesspool designs allows you to build a wastewater facility in full accordance with your needs and financial capabilities. Finally, I would like to remind you of the need to comply with sanitary standards and rules, especially as they relate to the danger of groundwater pollution. Let's take care of the cleanliness of the environment together, thinking about what will go to our children and grandchildren.

For seasonal living in a country house or with a small volume of water consumed, it is not necessary to install an expensive treatment facility. The optimal place for waste disposal will be a do-it-yourself cesspool without pumping. Its design is very simple, but the construction process is labor-intensive.

Sump pit layout

Types of cesspools

The simplest and most proven option for an autonomous sewer system is a drainage pit. By design they come in three types:

Sealed containers in which wastewater accumulates. They are environmentally friendly, easy to install, but require constant pumping costs.
A pit without a bottom is constructed to collect all household waste water into the soil.
Septic tank - the design of the structure provides for the settling and purification of contaminated water.

Frequent pumping of the drainage pit is an expensive service, which is accompanied by the spread of an unpleasant odor. It is possible to completely abandon it only when installing a biological station, but it is quite possible to reduce the call for vacuum cleaners to once every 3-4 years.

Construction of a cesspool without pumping

An absorbent storage tank without a bottom is an affordable way to install an autonomous sewer system, which owners can implement on their own. Its design is made in the form of a well, at the bottom of which a layer of filtration materials is poured. Domestic wastewater flows through the drain pipe into the pits, the liquid seeps through the filter at the bottom, and large fractions are retained. Microorganisms in the soil process organic matter from runoff and disinfect it.

The size of the pit is selected according to water standards per person, which are 150-200 liters per day. The liquid leaves the storage tank after 3 days, so the daily volume triples. For a family of 3 people, a 1.5 cubic meter pit is required. m.

Attention. Bacteria will not be able to cope with a large volume of water, and there will be a risk of soil contamination. With daily consumption of more than 1 cubic meter. m of water, it is necessary to install a septic tank.

Advantages of a drain pit:

simple design;
affordable cost of materials;
quick installation.

Flaws:

unpleasant odor;
environmental threat;
labor-intensive installation with your own hands.

Choosing a place for the pit

The placement of waste collection facilities is determined by special rules and regulations. These recommendations make it possible to protect water supplies, the foundation of the house and green spaces from contamination in the event of an increase in the water level in the drainage pit. Sanitary rules determine the following distances:

to the reservoir – 30 m:
to the well with sandy soil - 50 m, with clay soil - 20 m;
to trees – 3 m;
at least 5 m to the foundation of the house;
to the border of the neighboring plot - 2 m.

It is important to take into account the topography of the area; a low-lying area is not suitable for installing a drain tank. During rainfalls and snow melting, water will fill the hole. The depth of groundwater is also taken into account; it should be 1 meter lower from the bottom of the storage tank.

Features of the design of a cesspool on different soils

The time for waste disposal depends on the throughput of the soil. Sandy or peat soil has a high rate of liquid absorption, but their filtration qualities are insufficient. Contaminated runoff can reach the aquifer and poison it. In this case, part of the bottom and wall of the storage tank is concreted to reduce the area allowing drainage to pass through.

On clay soil, the opposite situation occurs - the liquid slowly seeps into the soil and there is a constantly high water level in the hole. The problem is solved by creating additional drainage. Several plastic sewer pipes filled with gravel are buried in the bottom of the hole to a depth of 1 meter. Their upper edge protrudes 1 meter from the bottom of the storage tank, and the walls are perforated. The design serves simultaneously to filter and drain waste.

Another method will require additional costs; it involves the construction of a second well nearby, connected to the pit by an overflow. As the water level rises, it will flow into the neighboring structure, and the drainage area will double.

Preparatory work

Having decided on a location for the storage tank, excavation work begins. This is the first stage in the construction of any type of autonomous sewage system. The pit is dug according to calculations made on the optimal volume of the cesspool. The depth of the sump should not exceed 3 meters, this will allow pumping from the very bottom in case of siltation. The walls of the pit are leveled for subsequent installation of the selected material.

Advice. You can save on calling an excavator to dig a pit if you do it simultaneously with the construction of the foundation of the house.

Materials for making a pit: pros and cons

To make the cesspool inexpensive, site owners are ready to use available materials: bricks, cinder blocks, tires and boards. If the first two materials are strong enough, then the rest are suitable for temporary construction, since they will quickly become unusable under the influence of moisture and chemical reactions. A high-quality and durable storage tank is built from monolithic concrete, reinforced concrete rings and bricks.

Drainage pit made of reinforced concrete rings

If you can dig a pit yourself, then you will have to order a crane to install heavy rings. The dimensions of the pit must exceed the standard diameter of the rings by 50 cm in order to be able to perform waterproofing. When installing several products, one must have factory perforation specifically made for the filtration well. If you purchased whole rings, you can fill the holes with your own hands. Their diameter is 5-8 cm, the distance from each other is 30 cm, the holes are arranged in a checkerboard pattern.

The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of sand to a depth of 20 cm and a layer of gravel or crushed stone to a height of 20-30. These rocks will become a filter that retains fecal waste in the pit.

The joints of the rings are covered with cement mortar, their outer part is covered with bitumen mastic for waterproofing. A hole is cut in the upper ring for the entrance of the sewer pipe. The pipeline itself is laid in a trench below the soil freezing line. The structure is covered with a concrete floor slab made with a hatch.

Pit made of concrete rings

Pros of the drive:

durability;
quick installation from ready-made parts;
high performance.

complexity of installation;
the need for pumping is not completely eliminated.

Brick cesspool

The shape of the sump is chosen arbitrarily; square, round and rectangular storage tanks are built. The material used is red solid brick laid on cement mortar. At the bottom of the excavated pit, a cushion of sand 20 cm high is placed. Formwork from boards is laid on top of it and a concrete screed is poured.

Advice. For better water drainage, before pouring concrete, wells up to 1 meter deep are drilled to bury perforated pipes.

Brick laying is carried out in two ways - with a gap of half or a quarter of a brick. Thanks to this design, water is discharged evenly. The top of the storage tank is covered with a concrete slab, which you can make yourself.

Brick drainage pit

Manufacturing of floors

The slab should protrude 30 cm beyond the perimeter of the pit on each side. The work area is marked with pegs with a taut rope. A sheet of tin is placed on the pit and covered with plastic film. Reinforcement strapping is performed on top of the waterproofing in increments of 20x20 cm. When preparing the reinforcement, a frame is inserted to limit the hatch. A ventilation pipe is installed to remove gases. For formwork, planed boards are taken and placed along a stretched rope. The finished structure is poured with concrete, compacted and leveled. The manhole cover is made at the same time as the stove or a metal one is purchased. After the concrete has set, the tin is removed in the space left for the cover.

Concrete cover

Advice. During the 4 weeks while the concrete hardens, it is not recommended to load the floor.

The slab must be airtight and raised above ground level. This will avoid catastrophic filling during rain. In winter, the manhole cover is insulated to prevent the pit from freezing.

affordable price;
simple installation;
good drainage of liquid into the ground.

silting of walls;
destruction of bricks under the influence of runoff.

How to extend the life of a cesspool

The technology of an eternal cesspool must include several mandatory conditions:

the use of strong and durable material that does not corrode;
the use of anaerobic bacteria that promote the decomposition of organic waste;
the pit is constructed in two parts; after filling the first reservoir, the liquid flows through a pipe into the second, the volume of the pit doubles.

The structure that meets all the requirements will be a two-chamber cesspool made of monolithic concrete. The walls of the structure are poured over the formwork, and a pipe for overflow is installed in the partition at an angle. The outer part of the walls is treated with bitumen mastic to protect against moisture. A mixture of crushed stone and gravel is used as a filter layer in a storage tank without a bottom. The pit is covered with a concrete slab with a hatch and a ventilation pipe.

The addition of biological agents reduces odor formation and accelerates the process of decomposition of organic matter. Anaerobic bacteria do not tolerate low temperatures, so that they do not die in winter, the pit must be insulated. Microorganisms are sensitive to the composition of wastewater, so you should avoid pouring chemicals into the sewer.

A cesspool is necessary for suburban areas; making it yourself will allow you to build a structure with the least financial cost.

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To install a sewer system in a dacha or urban area, you need to follow not only construction, but also legislative standards. Cesspool: the norms and rules for its arrangement are observed especially carefully. Violation of sanitary and construction requirements entails administrative and, in some cases, criminal liability.

One of the main laws on which most of the norms and requirements of SanPin are based is Federal Law No. 52-FZ (“On the sanitary and epidemiological welfare of the population” of March 30, 1999).

The volumes of cesspools are regulated most strictly by SanPin. The design of the drain tank depends on the average daily amount of waste. Structurally, pits are:

IN SanPiN 42-128-4690-88 sanitary standards are specified to ensure the well-being of the population. They say that if the total volume of wastewater does not exceed 1 cubic meter per day, then the construction of an open pit is permissible. If there is more waste, then a filter or sealed bottom must be equipped. It should be noted that in open pits a complete lack of protection is also not allowed.

SanPin standards describe in sufficient detail the requirements for the protection of groundwater. These requirements are presented in the resolution SP 2.1.5.1059-01 of 2001. Particular attention is paid to the design of the lower part of the waste pit. Sanitary organizations require the installation of a filter bottom, which consists of:

Sand pillow;
Crushed stone pillow;
A stone layer in which building materials of various fractions are used.

It is emphasized that if more than 4 adults live in a house and household appliances connected to the sewer are installed, then a multi-chamber pit or septic tank must be constructed. These are reservoirs with a higher degree of protection against contamination of the environment by waste toxins.

The rules and regulations for arranging a cesspool in Ukraine are somewhat different from Russian ones. According to Ukrainian legislation, a cesspool can only be made of a closed type from durable, water-resistant material. In any other case, you will not be able to legalize it and are subject to fines, including a court order to remove the tank from the site.

Selecting a location

Sanitary organizations strictly monitor the distance from the cesspool to the facade of residential and non-residential premises, as well as wells and other bodies of water on the site. Special norms have been developed that specify standard requirements. They are prescribed in the Sanitary Rules for the Maintenance of Populated Areas No. 42-128-4690-88 and SNiP 30-02-97:

The minimum permissible distance from the facade of a residential building is 15 meters. Please note that if the basement exceeds the area of the building, then the countdown is from the basement wall;
A distance of 10 meters or more (if possible) should be maintained from non-residential premises and buildings located on another site. If these standards are not met, then the owner of the neighboring plot has the right to sue. Penalties are provided as punishment;
If there is a well or borehole on the site, then a distance of 20 meters is maintained from them. Here the standards differ, because the footage depends on the groundwater level. The higher it is, the greater the distance. If the area is swampy, then a cesspool is not allowed. At the same time, on sand the minimum permissible distance is 50 meters. This is due to the high throughput of sand;
There should be at least 1 meter from the road or fence.

Regardless of the distance, before starting the preparation of the pit, its depth is calculated. The lower boundary of the pit should be 50% below the level of drinking groundwater. This information can be obtained from your local geological organization.

Here:

1 – top layer of soil (chernozem);
2 – crushed stone backfill of the pit for compaction;
3 – drains;
4 – crushed stone cushion at the bottom of the pit.

Good neighborliness

This concept characterizes legal relations between neighbors. According to legislative acts, the owner of a plot can organize any buildings on his land. But at the same time, he must take into account the safety of the people around him.

An incorrectly chosen location for a cesspool can bring a lot of inconvenience to both its owner and his neighbors. Among the most common problems:

Foundation destruction. The sewage tank not only contaminates the soil and water, but also increases the level of soil moisture. In this case, the foundation begins to collapse over the entire area. This is fraught with cracks in the walls, deformation of the structure and even its destruction;
Unpleasant smell. Many believe that you only need to maintain a distance of 20 meters from the facade of your house, but not from your neighbor’s. Naturally, a stench will emanate from the reservoir, which, first of all, will disturb those who live closer to it. The smell not only interferes with normal life, but also harms health;
Infection of the land and reduction in its productivity. Not only buildings suffer, but also garden plantings. Many fruit trees, ornamental plants and vegetable crops die from changes in the chemical composition of the soil. This entails a certain financial liability on the owner of the cesspool.

All the requirements and standards described above are mandatory for both private homeowners and individual entrepreneurs, as well as legal entities.

SanPin: operation of a cesspool

The cesspool codes also specify certain standards for drain care. Regardless of the type of garbage disposal, it must be cleaned with sterilizing mixtures twice a year. This is done after sewer cleaning, so that it is possible for some time to completely neutralize the effect of pathogenic bacteria.

For sterilization, a special acid-based chemical solution, gentle compounds or homemade mixtures are used. It is strictly forbidden to use lime chloride in its pure form. When mixed with water or other chemicals, it releases a dangerous gas. It has no odor, but can cause severe poisoning and burns of the upper respiratory tract.

For home self-service, a mixture is used, which includes:

Bleaching powder;
Creolin;
Naphthalizol and some other compounds.

Cleaning is required every two weeks, and the cesspool is inspected every season. The pit can be cleaned independently, using a sewer truck, or cleaned with bioactivators.

Not every suburban area has a central sewer system. In this case, the owners have to equip an autonomous sewer system with their own hands, and this procedure is not particularly complicated. By the way, a do-it-yourself cesspool without pumping is, in some ways, superior to a sealed structure, which has also been in considerable demand lately. Below we will consider all the intricacies of how to make a cesspool so as not to pump out.

A cesspool is considered the simplest sewerage device on the territory of a summer house or country house. Its peculiarity is that you can organize it yourself, without the involvement of specialists.

Rules for the location of the cesspool

Before making a hole, you need to understand in what place it is best to do it. Currently there are SNiPs in force that regulate the location of the cesspool as follows:

On the territory adjacent to the house or cottage;
The pit can be installed no closer than 10 meters from the foundation of any nearest structure. This rule is determined by the fact that if the pit has poor sealing, this may affect the quality of the nearest foundation (that is, it may simply collapse over time);
It is also important to maintain a distance of at least 1 meter from the pit to the fence;
A cesspool in a private house should have a maximum depth of no more than three meters. In addition, it is important to consider how deep the groundwater lies;
The pit for the dacha should be located 25 meters from sources of drinking water. The distance is calculated depending on the soil type. If it is sandy and sandy loam soil, the safe distance is 50 meters, loamy soil - 30 meters, clayey soil - 20 meters.

What types of cesspools are there?

In a private house, you can organize three types of pits with your own hands:

absorbent (without bottom);
hermetic;
septic tank

The simplest option is the first, which is a bottomless reservoir. Such a sewer system has its strengths. First of all, it is good because it requires rare pumping. In addition, it can be made small, and this will not take much money.

The only disadvantage of this option is that all wastewater penetrates directly into the ground, which causes some damage to the environment. And if a country house generates too much wastewater, such a pit simply cannot cope with their quantity.

A sealed container, which is also environmentally friendly for the environment, is considered more comfortable from an operational point of view. But in order to pump out such sewage, it is sometimes necessary to call a sewer truck. After a certain time, the effectiveness of the sealed pit decreases and it will need to be cleaned more and more often.

With large volumes of wastewater, the sewer truck will have to be called out even more often. This is explained by the fact that the wastewater is removed, but the sludge remains. In a word, this option requires an investment of material resources.

The most reliable cesspool is considered to be a septic tank built at the dacha with your own hands. As for the principle of its operation, it is mechanical wastewater treatment.

Speaking of septic tanks, such equipment comes with one or more chambers. The simplest are septic tanks with one chamber. If we consider the design, then a septic tank is something like a well with a bottom, which is laid out using crushed stone and broken bricks. In a word, the wastewater is roughly cleaned, after which the water begins to penetrate into the soil, where bacteria complete the procedure: they are further purified. As a result, the reservoir will not be replenished immediately, and a minimum of harmful substances will enter the soil itself.

The most environmentally friendly septic tanks are those consisting of several chambers, they are able to better purify wastewater to the point that it can be used to water the garden. There is no question of the presence of odor in this case. At the same time, this is the most expensive option for arranging a waste pit.

What materials are pits made of?

A pit for a bathhouse or home can be made from a wide variety of materials. Basically, improvised building materials are taken, such as bricks, cinder blocks, boards and even tires. As for the first two materials, their strength will be sufficient for the construction, but boards and rubber will quickly become unusable, since various loads will constantly act on them. If we are talking about a high-quality and durable storage tank, then for its construction it is necessary to use monolithic concrete, reinforced concrete rings and bricks.

Thus, a do-it-yourself sauna container is most often made from reinforced concrete rings. The pit is dug on your own, but to install the rings you need to rent a crane. As for the dimensions, the pit should have a diameter of 50 cm larger than the rings, which is required for further waterproofing of the structure. If several products are installed, then one of them must have factory perforation (necessary for a filtration well). If the rings are solid, then the hole is made independently.

The bottom of the pit should be covered with 20 cm of sand and 30 cm of gravel or crushed stone. These rocks are used as a filter that will retain fecal waste in the pit.

The places where the concrete rings are connected must be covered with cement mortar, and the outside covered with bitumen mastic as a waterproofing material. The upper ring must have a special hole where the sewer pipe is inserted. As for the pipeline itself, it must be laid below the level where the soil freezes. The finished structure should be covered with a floor slab equipped with a hatch. This option for a do-it-yourself sauna pit is considered the most popular.

Such a drive has the following advantages:

durable;
it is quickly erected, since all the parts are already ready;
high efficiency.

Among the disadvantages:

installation complexity;
You will still have to pump it out from time to time.

An equally rare representative of the cesspool is a brick structure. At the moment, such pits are successfully used in many areas and differ in both strengths and weaknesses.

Among the advantages of a brick cesspool are:

Lightness of the device. In fact, the quality of the masonry of such a structure is not regulated in any way, so you can do the arrangement yourself, which will save a lot of money;
Ease of operation. Here you need to understand that such pits are used only to store household waste. Therefore, the design does not include elements that could break and stop the functioning of the pit itself;
Easy to recycle. A sewer truck is called to pump out sewage;
An environmentally friendly option. Since the structure has a bottom and its walls are covered with waterproofing material, sewage will not penetrate into the soil and wastewater. If there is a well or well on the site, then this factor plays a significant role.

Let's note the disadvantages:

If the hole fills up, an unpleasant odor will emanate from it;
Brick experiences various chemical loads, as a result of which its quality may deteriorate;
Cost of operation. Since such a pit does not have filter elements, from time to time you will need to call a sewer truck, which entails additional costs.

Features of a cesspool from a barrel

As noted above, pits are made from different materials, but not everyone meets environmental safety standards. A cesspool made from a barrel has a significant advantage, which is that such a design is completely sealed. In addition, you can make barrels with your own hands.

Such a system is set up as follows. Based on building regulations, the drain pipe must be laid even before the foundation is built. As for the rest of the recommendations:

The pipe must be laid at the bottom of the base of the structure;
The slope must be maintained in relation to the pit;
The owner must decide whether the pipe should be insulated or not. If insulation is not provided, it is important that its slope allows liquid to move freely;
The drainage tank must be located no closer than 5 meters from the house and 2 meters from the fence;
The pit should have a depth not exceeding 3 meters. This is due to the fact that sewer trucks have a three-meter pumping hose;
Before lowering the barrel into the pit, you should make sure that its hatch is conveniently located in relation to the sewer truck;
The design should not have many bends and joints, otherwise there is a high probability that the pipe will quickly become clogged;
In the case of a completely closed hatch in the barrel, it is recommended to leave a ventilation duct (made in the form of a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm). The pipe is needed for the safe operation of the structure - explosive methane accumulates in a confined space;
It is important to choose a fairly large barrel. If a light barrel is installed, then under the influence of the soil it will simply be pushed out of the soil, especially if the latter is heaving. The heaving of the soil does not matter if the bottom of the pit is concreted.

The material from which the barrel is made also plays a significant role. It can be plastic or metal. The best option is a plastic design. Such a tank is good because the factory version already includes a hatch and a ventilation hole. But despite this, the strongest quality of a plastic barrel is its performance characteristics. So, plastic is not afraid of corrosion and rotting. As a result, the installed capacity can last about 50 years, in some cases more.

Other advantages are as follows:

Due to the small mass of plastic, containers made from it are easy to install. Installation of the product can be carried out by one person;
In terms of strength, plastic is inferior to metal, however, the strength characteristics are sufficient to withstand soil loads;
Plastic barrels do not have welded seams, so they will not leak during operation, which has a positive effect on safety for the environment;
Using plastic tanks, you can create an overflow system in which sewage will be processed and cleaned.

It happens that a septic tank or cesspool is not used for a long time. In order to clean it, use a regular drainage pump with liquid processed by bacteria.

It is important to understand! A waste disposal facility is not a waste container. Therefore, if inorganic materials and other waste get into it, they simply will not rot and will simply contaminate the structure, making it less productive. If you want to maintain a high-quality and efficient waste pit on your site, it should be used only for its intended purpose.

For the citizens, the problems of drainage and disposal of household waste are solved by municipal services, but adherents of free-living country life have to think through such pressing issues on their own. If the owner of an estate intended for the residence of a large family most often has to order the installation of a bulk septic tank or local treatment station on the site, then a summer resident can easily build a cesspool with his own hands from inexpensive or waste materials. It will cope with the important sanitary function perfectly, and will not require the allocation of too much money for arrangement.

The simplest and most cost-effective options

The historical predecessor of this sewer facility was a simple hole dug in the ground, the walls of which were coated with clay and reinforced with boards. Then they began to bury old barrels, tanks, and other used containers into the ground. Nowadays, such “reservoirs” for collecting and partially filtering wastewater are installed only if the daily amount does not exceed 1 cubic meter. m.

A simple cesspool for a toilet can satisfy the needs of summer residents who stay on the site a couple of days a week during the summer season. However, its device is not approved, and sometimes completely prohibited by sanitary and epidemiological services, often accompanied by the imposition of administrative penalties.

Elementary cesspool: from the simplest container lined with boards for a toilet to a tank made of concrete rings

Attention. The depth mark of the bottom should be at least 1 meter higher than the maximum (spring-autumn) groundwater level.

If the owner of a suburban area really doesn’t want to spend money on building a structure, and he has a certain amount of worn-out tires, this material can be put to good use. You just need to lay the tires in the dug pit, fastening them together with bolts. If the pit is located outside the house or toilet, a hole must be cut in the side of the tire placed on top to connect the sewer pipeline. Afterwards, the pit around the home-made treatment plant is filled with soil, and a concrete slab with a hole for the ventilation pipe and a hatch for pumping is laid on top.

The owner of a N-number of worn-out tires can use them to build an excellent reservoir for collecting waste

Common types of structures

According to characteristic design differences, cesspools are divided into absorption structures and sealed containers. The functions of collecting, accumulating and treating wastewater are also performed by septic tanks. They are more technically complex installations with forced stimulation of the movement of wastewater inside and with biological and chemical treatment methods.

Violation of sanitary and epidemiological standards for the location of a cesspool is unacceptable

Containers without bottom - absorbent

Direct descendants of the “people's” cesspool. Their characteristic feature is the absence of a bottom, due to which the liquid component of the wastewater, having undergone purification by coarse filtration through a layer of a mixture of sand, gravel, broken brick and other “ingredients”, passes into the ground. The absorption option is considered the most economical; moreover, the construction of a pit of this type can easily be carried out by a contractor who has absolutely no experience in the field of construction. Another saving: due to the partial infiltration of purified water into the ground, there is much less need to call sewer trucks.

Structural diagram of a cesspool without a bottom - wastewater is filtered through crushed stone

The absorbent type of pit is chosen if there is no need to drain a large amount of wastewater, if the country house does not have a jacuzzi, dishwashers and washing machines. The land will not be able to process and accept a large volume. In addition, the cleaning carried out cannot be classified as a 100% effective procedure, which means that wastewater from the absorption pit will still pollute the environment.

Sealed waste water tanks

Their name contains a direct hint indicating the main design feature. Essentially, these are closed containers made of water-tight concrete, brickwork, plastic, and gas silicate blocks that require constant emptying after filling. Sealed structures will ensure the complete absence of odors typical of wastewater, but will force the owners to regularly call a sewer truck to remove accumulations.

Important. A cinder block is not suitable for building a cesspool; it will collapse too quickly from contact with water.

The easiest way is to buy and bury a factory-made plastic container in the ground to collect wastewater, connect a sewer pipeline to it and periodically call the vacuum cleaners to empty it.

The simplest scheme for constructing a wastewater tank would be to install a store-bought plastic container. It does not need to be sealed, however, it is advisable to fill the bottom of the pit with a kind of cement screed and strengthen the walls with reinforcement. In principle, if the owners are not embarrassed by the unpresentable appearance, then there is no need to bury it in the ground. Another very compelling argument in favor: a plastic structure can be installed regardless of the close level of groundwater. There will be no harm to the environment anyway.

The tank should not be completely filled with sewage; there should be at least one meter between the manhole cover and the liquid level; if the level exceeds the limit, the container should be emptied

The simplest homemade septic tanks

These are more complex structures that not only perform deep cleaning, but also process wastewater into fertilizer valuable for gardeners. Most often, they are a system of two or three chambers, in the first of which only collection and rough mechanical purification occurs, and in subsequent chambers specific bacteria enter the battle, finally processing the polluting inclusions of wastewater.

A cesspool with an overflow purifies water so well that it can be successfully used for economic and technical purposes, for example, for watering or for cleaning the area. But in order to make a septic tank with an overflow, considerable effort will be required.

The operating principle of a three-chamber septic tank is based on multi-stage wastewater treatment: in the first tank, the collected wastewater is subjected to coarse filtration, in the following chambers finer purification is performed

If you don’t mind the effort, but there is no surplus of financial resources, you can again resort to worn-out car tires. In the sense of “bald”, but not worn-out tires. Moreover, the owner will save money not only through waste building materials. To install a septic tank made from tires, you do not need a powerful concrete foundation, just a compacted cushion of crushed stone with sand with a thickness of 30-40 cm and a ten-centimeter screed.

To increase the volume of the created reservoir, the sidewalls of the tires must be cut off.
A concrete pipe is installed vertically in a well made of tires; its diameter should be approximately two times smaller than the same size of tires. The upper cut of the concrete pipe is located 10 cm below the well made of tire rubber.
The bottom of the pipe is filled with concrete to form a monolithic concrete cylinder.

At the top you will need to make holes for infiltration and for installing pipes that provide overflow.

Design of a cesspool with overflow: the pipe entering the chamber must be located higher than the overflow pipe

The sewer pipe must be inserted into a concrete container located inside the tires.

Places where sewer pipes enter vertically installed concrete pipes must be sealed.

Let's consider the stages of installation of several design options.

Absorbing

Owners of small country estates who decide to make a basic sewer system with their own hands most often choose this option. The simplest design and the ability to not resort to the services of sewer trucks too often are attractive. The walls can be made of bricks or gas silicate blocks, but it is easier and faster to build them by placing concrete rings on top of each other.

It is much faster to build walls from gas silicate blocks than to lay them out of brick, and it is even faster to make a pit from concrete rings, but to install them you will need a crane

Sealed

The construction principle is similar, only there is no need to form holes for the infiltration of treated wastewater and the bottom must be completely concreted. It is advisable to reinforce the lower concrete platform by laying a concrete mesh on the bottom before pouring. To prevent the reinforcement from “drowning” in the concrete, it must be slightly raised above the surface and secured on pegs.

An important aspect: it is recommended to seal the walls. A cheap option for internal insulation is bitumen; the outside of a homemade sewerage facility can simply be coated with clay. If the walls of the pit were built of brick, they can be plastered.

The standard design of a sealed cesspool with a concrete bottom, the walls can be built from concrete rings, lined with brick or gas silicate blocks, or a monolithic container can be made by pouring concrete into the formwork

Brickwork will take significantly more time than installing concrete rings. At the bottom, by analogy, a concrete screed is arranged, and bricks can be laid either in a circle or by “drawing” a square or rectangle in the perimeter. The poured concrete platform must “mature” before starting masonry, standing for 7-8 days.

Important. During the masonry period, it is necessary to form holes for the supply of sewer pipes. The connection point is located below the freezing level recorded by local weather services.

The sewer pipeline to the waste collection point should be slightly inclined to ensure spontaneous movement of the contaminated mass.

The pipe introducing wastewater into the pit must be located below the freezing level, the pipeline must be laid at an angle to ensure spontaneous movement of wastewater

Installation of ready-made complexes

It is impossible to think of anything simpler and more convenient than their use; the arrangement of a cesspool from precisely sized components is carried out extremely quickly. The only drawback: the volume parameters specified by the manufacturer. But they produce a factory product mainly with the average consumer in mind. That is, finding the necessary kit is not difficult at all.

There are many ways and methods to make a cesspool. From the variety of options, it remains to choose the optimal type of design that meets your needs. Which costs are more important, what is best to save on, is up to the owner and contractor to choose, and knowledge of the design differences will help make the right decision.