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I continue the theme of the folk costume of SWEDEN. This concept differs from the concept of “national costume”. If the national costume is a standard for the entire nation. Then the folk costume is traditionally worn in different regions of the country and each region has its own characteristics of this clothing.
A folk costume (folkdräkt), in the strict sense, can only be called a documented (all parts of the costume are preserved) peasant costume of a certain area, with a certain set characteristic features. Such costumes are created in areas with clear natural boundaries (forests, mountains, bodies of water).
Clothes and shoes were made according to certain rules, which tailors and shoemakers were obliged to observe under threat of a fine or church punishment - hence the characteristic features that distinguish the costume of one village from another. This does not mean, however, that Swedish peasants wore uniforms - there were still some individual differences.
In addition to “folkdräkt”, there are also the concepts of “bygdedräkt” and “hembygdedräkt” - this is a regional costume, a reconstruction, or a costume recreated on the basis of a folk one.
In Sweden, the traditional peasant costume goes out of everyday use by 1850. Due to the development of communications, the growth of cities and industry throughout the country, the people are gradually abandoning the traditional costume, which was considered a symbol of the backward peasant world.
However, at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, Western Europe was swept by the neo-romanticism movement, and secular society in Sweden turned its gaze to peasant culture and folk costume. In 1891, Arthur Hazelius founded Skansen, an open-air ethnographic museum, in Stockholm. In addition to peasant life in general, Hazelius was also interested in folk costume. August Strindberg had pants made in folk style; similar clothes are becoming fashionable even among government officials.
National romanticism encourages people to explore peasant costume. The passing folk culture inspires not only the artists Anders Zorn and Carl Larsson, famous singers of the Dalarna region, but also many others.
Folk movements are being created that are engaged in the revival of old traditions: folk dance, music (the Spelman association) and traditional clothing. Folk costumes are searched for and studied (mostly in the same province of Dalarna). They are trying to reconstruct them, and regional costumes are created based on them. In 1912, a local association created a costume for the province of Norrbotten.
In 1902-03. the so-called common Swedish national costume is being created / it was written about in the previous article about the Swedish national costume /. After the First World War, folk costume was forgotten, and its revival began only in the seventies of the last century.
In the mid-70s, a copy of the sverigedräkt, donated by an unknown woman from Leksand, was found in the Nordic Museum in Stockholm. The Land newspaper announced a search for similar costumes, after which several more copies from 1903-05 were found. The organizer of this search was Bo Malmgren (Bo Skräddare). He also developed a version of this costume for men (until then the sverigedrakt was exclusively for women).
In connection with the change in attitude towards national symbols in the 80-90s. In the 20th century, interest in national and folk costumes was revived. New models appear: children's, men's, women's. New accessories, such as raincoats, are added to the national costume that has become traditional. The only colors that remain unchanged are yellow and blue.
The national costume is considered festive. It can be seen on Swedish princesses and beauty pageant winners. The costume is treated with pride. Last year, June 6 was declared a public holiday for the first time in Sweden, which was perceived with ambivalence.
In Sweden, the midsummer holiday (Midsommaren) was perceived as a national holiday, but today the state “proposed” a new date with such attributes as an anthem, flag and national costume. Thus, we can again assert that national symbols are an important tool in the construction of traditions associated with identity. However, according to statistics, only 6% of the Swedish population has such a suit in their wardrobe. For comparison: in Norway, a third of the population has folk clothes.
Almost all localities have shops selling folk costumes. There are weaving factories that produce fabric for costumes, and folk craftsmen sew, embroider, and create accessories for these clothes.
Country motifs are very popular in modern fashion.
Based on materials from L.V. Ivanov "Swedish folk costume as a symbol of national identity."
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(Note: at the end of the post-video "Folk dance")
“A beloved child has many names,” says the Swedish proverb. Much the same can be said about the traditional Swedish costume. At first glance, it will seem that the same clothes have many different names. Folkdrekt, Landskapsdrekt, Sokkedrekt, Bygdedrekt or Hembygdsdrekt, Heradsdrekt. National costume, Provincial costume, Costume of a specific province or, for example, Folkdanskostyumer, folk dance costumes.
In this material we will talk about the GENERAL NATIONAL SWEDISH COSTUME (Allmenna svenska nachunaldrekten)...
In the photo above is a typical Swedish national costume - Din Svenska Drekt (Your Swedish costume)
He was "designed" Merta Jorgensen in 1903. Märtha Jørgensen (Palme) (1874–1967) was the daughter of a wealthy businessman from Norrköping. In 1900, she became a gardener's apprentice and ended up at the royal residence of Tulgarn, in the province of Södermanland. In this castle she saw Princess Victoria of Baden-Baden. The future queen tried to demonstrate her belonging to the new national culture and wore costumes created in the folk style - variations of the costumes of the parishes of Vingåker and Österåker, as well as variations of the traditional costume of the inhabitants of the island of Öland. The same dresses were worn by court ladies. This was the inspiration for Martha Palme, the impetus for the creation of a women's national costume.
Already in 1901, she was looking for like-minded people to bring to life the main idea - to create a national costume and distribute it in wide circles. In 1902, Martha Jørgensen created the Swedish Women's National Costume Association (SVENSKA KVINNLIGA NATIONALDRÄKTSFÖRENINGEN). The society's task was to reform clothing. In contrast to French fashion, it was necessary to create a new dress, designed in accordance with the principles of practicality, hygiene, and most importantly - original “Swedishness”. "Why shouldn't we wear our fine peasant costumes?" - writes Martha Jorgensen. So, the suit was created...
Merta described her creation this way: the costume was designed in accordance with the principles of perception by different people, but naturally within reasonable limits. This meant that the Dean Svenska Drekt could come in two designs.
So a very beautiful women's outfit was created, which included a skirt and bodice, distinguished by an intense blue color. The obligatory material for such a costume was wool, but an option with a red bodice was also proposed. The yellow apron, combined with a blue skirt, was supposed to symbolize the Swiss flag. The bodice must be decorated with embroidery that would reflect the rich national past. The skirt and bodice could be either sewn or worn separately. A mandatory attribute of the costume was a belt, which was distinguished by a silver buckle. But at the bottom of the skirt there was a wide edging, the same color as the bodice of the suit. According to Jorgensen's idea, the shirt must include a wide collar, and the headdress must be particularly white. But the color of stockings and shoes was black; anything else was not welcome.
The initially accepted design was a skirt with a laced vest as separate pieces.
The second option, adopted later, is a short bodice and skirt, worn together, a design from the Wingaker County.
Skirt and bodice - Swedish blue or skirt of blue color, and the bodice is bright red, with national embroidery, reflecting the rich national past. Blue and yellow(apron) made of wool should be a muted color of the Swedish flag (not such a bright color modern materials). The apron represented the main and central part of the costume; it was made of linen, cotton, crepe or silk. They also wore bright aprons, caps trimmed with lace and thin woolen scarves on their shoulders.
From jewelry preference was given to large round silver brooches.
The men's suit consisted of narrow yellow or green short pants (just below the knees), long woolen stockings, thick-soled shoes with large metal buckles, a short cloth or suede jacket, a vest with metal buttons and a characteristic woolen knitted hat with pompoms.
The bright colors of the Swedish flag, according to Merta, are exactly what the entire Swedish people needed. They had an invigorating effect on the national feelings and contrasted beautifully with the deep colors of Swedish nature - the green pine forest and the cold white snow. With a suit you must wear one of two hats, stockings - black, if there is no red in the suit, then the stockings are red. Shoes preferably with straps or laces, black, never yellow.
Thanks to the efforts of Merta Jørgensen, artists Gustav Ankarkron, Anders Zorn and Karl Larsson, the SWEDISH NATIONAL COSTUME was developed and introduced as a standard in 1903 in Falun (Dalarna County). The colors of the clothing items were taken from the Swedish national flag. However, the costume has been widely accepted as the National Costume, having in fact existed since the 1900s, after Her Majesty Queen Silvia wore it on June 6th National Day in 1983.
Modern politics is successfully trying to adapt folk culture to the requirements of the time, creating new national traditions. Thus, some artificially created attributes, including clothing, become a symbol of the nation’s identity.
Introduction
To begin with, it should be noted that the concept of “national costume” and “costume of the common people” is far from the same thing. Folk, strictly speaking, can be called characteristic clothing that is worn in a certain limited area. Of course, it cannot be said that all peasants dressed in uniforms, like in the army, but individual features in clothing, of course, were present.
Today, the concept of “national costume” includes clothing modeled at the intersection of the 19th and 20th centuries, which is based on a sample of peasant costume. For example, the Swedish national costume appeared in the 1920s.
By this time, the usual peasant costume had practically fallen out of use, because due to the development of communication and the growth of the urban population, people began to wear different clothes. And only at the beginning of the 20th century, the highest circles of the aristocracy and government, influenced by the fashion for “neo-romanticism,” paid attention to the traditional clothing of peasants.
Swedish national costume
The author of the Swedish national women's costume is Märta Jørgensen, with the support of artists Gustav Ankakron and Carl Larsson. The costume consists of a skirt and bodice made of blue wool (there is an option with a red bodice). An apron made of yellow fabric is worn with the skirt. The combination of blue and yellow symbolizes the Swedish flag. The bodice of the suit is decorated with embroidery.
As a variation, use is not allowed individual elements(skirts and bodice), and a one-piece model in the form of a sundress. In this case, the waist is emphasized with a homespun belt decorated with a silver buckle. The suit is completed with a white shirt with a wide collar, black shoes and white stockings.
Swedish royal family national costume
National costume - modern look
The national costume of Sweden experienced a rebirth in the 70s of the last century. Today it is considered festive clothing and is worn mainly for formal events by princesses, as well as beauty pageant winners who proudly display their beauty in national attire.
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