Pocket chain saw. How to make your own pocket saw from a chain Saw from a chainsaw chain

These saws are very convenient to use during hiking trips - they take up very little space and cut perfectly. Buying a factory-made tool is not always possible, but there is an easy way to make it yourself.

What you need

The saw is made from a chainsaw chain; a piece of polymer sling 60–70 cm long and approximately 3–4 cm wide is used for the handles. The elements are fastened with M6 bolts with washers and nuts. The plastic is glued together with an iron through baking paper, the chain is disassembled using a small grinder and a punch.

Manufacturing process

Place the chain on a flat surface and find the connecting link. Using a cordless angle grinder or grinder, carefully cut off the head of the rivets connecting the chain links.

Place the chain on a vice and remove the axes of the connecting rivets with a punch, the chain will be disconnected.

Prepare two pieces of polymer sling, each about 30 cm long. Bend them in half; the size of the loops should ensure a comfortable hand position while working with the saw. Bend the ends 3-4 cm and fold them together. In this way, a reinforced unit for attaching the chain is prepared.

Place a piece of baking paper on a piece of board, one end of a folded sling on it, and again paper on top. Use an iron to heat the prepared area until the polymer melts and sticks together. Heat carefully, do not allow the plastic to completely melt - some types become brittle; when using a saw, the place where the chain is fixed cracks; the tool will have to be repaired field conditions. Using this technology, process all four ends of the pieces of tape.

Using a punch, make holes for the bolts. They should be placed approximately in the middle of the prepared area at a distance of 2–3 cm from the end.

Attach a chain to the handles. First, place a bolt and washer in the hole, put the open chain link on it, then the other end of the handle and tighten the connection with a nut.

The hand chain saw is ready for use. Press down on the branch with your foot and try to cut it. If the chain is sharp, then harvesting firewood of the required length will require a minimum of physical effort and time.

Tools

An electric saw is an indispensable tool for summer cottage or in a personal home. She simply masters cutting thick branches, boards and different material made of wood. Even the most reliable tool has its own degree of wear, and from time to time it is necessary to correct small or large damage. Repair electric saw their with hands is possible only in certain cases and in the presence of certain abilities and equipment. Often the tool has to be given to the service. But there are some breakdowns that are simply fixed without the help of others.

Overview of the design of the chain saw

In order to master the ability to repair electric saws, you need to understand their design. The main element that cuts the material is the saw chain, which is driven by a motor. The chain itself is a collection of cutting links, which are fastened together by hinges. The movement of the chain is done on a plate, which is called a tire. Do-it-yourself electric saw from a grinder -. This part is made from steel of the highest quality, which is not susceptible to chips, scratches and corrosion - this is the main indicator of the tool’s properties. Tires are classified by design:

welded;
solid with removable tip;
solid with a tip made of carbide materials.

A welded tire is something similar to a “sandwich” that is welded from 3 components into one, with all this a driven sprocket is riveted into the structure. One-piece design with replaceable tip - 1 sheet product, normal for long tools. In such a tire, the main load falls on the roller bearing of the driven sprocket. The one-piece configuration reduces friction losses by 8-10%. If a tool with a solid tire made of hard alloy materials, then it is normally suitable for working with the highest loads, as well as for operation in conditions where there is a huge amount of sand, dust and dirt.

1. ELECTRIC CHAIN SAW FROM AN GRINDER WITH YOUR OWN HANDS. When working with an electric saw of any configuration, you need to keep in mind the possibility of a “kickback” occurring. throwing the tool towards the person performing the work. This situation occurs if the very end of the saw bar rests on the material being processed. To avoid injury in such a situation, manufacturers equip saws with an automatic chain brake.

Overview of possible malfunctions of electric saws

If the saw does not cut in, need to check availability of power, integrity of wires and connections.
If everything is in order in the power supply, you need to check the chain brake, which blocks the operation of the tool. To fix this problem, you need to move the brake flap to a different position.
If the measures described above do not turn on the saw, then need to check integrity of the cable and plug.
If the power of the saw has decreased or productivity has dropped, you need to change the carbon brushes, which are apparently worn out.
Quite often the chain begins to stop not immediately, but after a certain lapse of time. The longer the saw is used, the larger this temporary clearance becomes. To get rid of this task, you need to change the saw brake band, which has worn out over time.
Often, when the saw is operating, a nasty, ear-cutting sound occurs. This sound often occurs due to a lack of oil in the mechanism or due to contamination of the grooves that conduct it. A power chain saw is a saw, How to make a bird feeder with your own hands. Fixing the problem is simple - add oil and clean the grooves.
It is important to use only unique spare parts for repairs that are recommended by the manufacturer. If you use spare parts from third-party companies, this often leads to tool failure or unsafe situations.
If there is damage to the body, then for your safety, the saw must be sent in for repair.
You cannot replace cutting parts of the tool that are not recommended by the manufacturer or are not suitable for the design.

CHAIN POWER SAW FROM BULGARIAN WITH OWN WITH YOUR HANDS

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Homemade electric chain saw

Homemade removable adapter for an angle grinder, turning it into electric chain saw.

Sharpening a power saw

One of the elements of the saw that you need to monitor yourself is the chain. Electric chain saw 2 years of operation, is it worth it to renovate an apartment with your own hands? It must be sharpened preventively, since if this process is delayed, the repair electric chain saw It will no longer be possible to produce it with your own hands. It must be sent to a service center, where it will be sharpened on professional machines.

Some rules for working with electric saws

Chain saws are designed to operate at maximum speed, and should always be run at wide open throttle to increase productivity.
You should not cut at a right angle away from you, you should hold the saw at a slight angle from the body.
It is necessary to adhere to the instructions for repairing the electric saw, as well as purchase only those spare parts that which are recommended by the manufacturer.
Before transporting the saw, it is necessary to turn off the engine, keep the bar with the chain behind you when carrying, it is necessary to pack the saw in a casing before transportation.
Do not operate the saw above shoulder height as this increases the risk of an accident.
If the saw is stuck in the material, then it must be removed from there very carefully. The buoyant force acting on the saw increases when the upper part is clamped, which is quite dangerous for the operator.
When working with a log framed by thin branches, you should act very carefully, since thin material in some cases is clamped by a tire and tilted towards the person performing the work.
It is strictly forbidden to use a faulty, unadjusted or incompletely assembled tool.
Before starting work, it is necessary to check the serviceability of the saw switch.
It is necessary to constantly monitor the tension of the chain, since if it is poorly tensioned, then the risk of it jumping off the guides increases, this leads not only to injury, but also to breakdown of the device.
Repair of power saws Partner, like any other saws, is recommended to be carried out in a specialized service center, since do-it-yourself repair leads to serious problems in the future.

Will need

A chainsaw chain (preferably an old one, already developed).
Emery machine.
File (round, thin, for sharpening teeth).
Thick metal rings (from a bunch of keys, or from a key fob) 2 pcs.
Tin and flux.
A gas burner or a powerful lighter.
A couple of links from a not too thick chain (as in the photo).
Machine oil.

Making a chain pocket saw:

First, let's rid the chain of everything unnecessary and sticking out. Except for the sawing teeth, of course.

Using an emery machine, we grind or saw off all the protrusions, teeth for the sprocket and tire, and the stops that are located immediately behind the saw teeth. You will get a chain like this:

Next you need to give the required form saw teeth. Since we will work with a chain saw in both directions, and not as it worked with a chainsaw - in one direction, then the teeth, accordingly, need to be sharpened at both ends. On an emery machine, using a fine cutting disc give the teeth a triangular shape.

Armed with a round needle file or a thin file, we sharpen the teeth on the chain.

Now we need two powerful iron rings, as well as a couple of links from a small chain.

We widen the links a little so that the iron ring that will be put on later fits freely into them.

We connect the metal ring and the end of the chain with an extended link. It should look like this:

Why didn't you guess? Because I didn’t take into account that in winter, in the cold, the plastic would slip out of woolen mittens, and it would be cold to work with gloves. So, instead of handles, it is better to use rough branches of suitable thickness cut off on the spot. Although everyone has their own business here - I personally (as can be seen in the video) got by just fine with metal rings attached to the ends of the saw chain, when I sent the constantly slipping tubes into the fire... so, after we connected all the parts of the saw chain, we need to solder the closed ones ends of metal rings and links, just in case. For greater reliability, so to speak. It takes too long to heat the metal rings with a soldering iron, so I soldered them with a powerful lighter - I simply cleaned the surface of the metal to be soldered with sandpaper, lubricated it with flux, heated it with a lighter and applied tin. All that remains is to lubricate the saw chain with machine oil.

I used gun oil for this, but in the absence of one, you can use any oil. At least it’s plant-based! That's all. All that remains is to carry out the test. As you can see in the video below, the chain handled dry wood just fine, even though I didn't use the handles.

If you need to cut down something more serious, it’s never too late to cut a couple of branches for handles. With such a saw, you can easily cut firewood for future use, so that you can then maintain the fire for heating and cooking without saving.

The most important and, perhaps, the biggest plus of this product is that it is very compact and light. Roll the chain into rings, put it in a bag, and put it in the pocket of a backpack or bag - a matter of minutes. Do not forget to lubricate the chain with oil, and file its teeth after each trip, and it will serve you for a long time, as well as any other thing with good care and kind, caring attitude.

A circular electric saw is a very useful thing in any household; in terms of necessity, it is perhaps in second place after an electric drill. If you have to use a saw and not very often, nevertheless, with the slightest possibility of manufacturing parts, I recommend getting such a machine. The saw of the proposed design can be equipped not only with a saw blade with a diameter of up to 200 mm, but also with cutting and grinding wheels, a milling cutter and a universal woodworking head.

The main components of the electric saw in the proposed version have undergone significant structural changes associated with strengthening the structure and changing the layout: the unit is frameless (Fig. 1). Unlike the prototype this design The saw provides not only sawing wood, but also planing and milling, as well as tool sharpening and metal cutting.

The basis of this design is an electric motor from washing machine, for example, type DAO-A. The advantage of this electric motor is exceptional reliability, and taking into account the fact that in an electric saw it works in more favorable conditions, it makes direct sense to ensure its operation in a more forced mode by replacing the starting relay with a capacitor starting system, which will be discussed below.

The base of the saw is sawn from plywood or board at least 20 mm thick with dimensions of 300 x 500 mm. The electric motor is fixed to the base with Mb screws with a conical head using corners 50 x 50 mm in size and 140 mm long, attached to the electric motor by its own standard coupling bolts so that the horizontal shelves of the corners are directed outward from the engine.

In a similar way, a subframe is attached to the top of the electric motor, made of plywood with a thickness of at least 15 mm and having approximately the same dimensions in plan as the base (Fig. 2). The holes in the angles, which serve to attach them to the engine, are oblong in shape in order to ensure tension on the belt drive. Instead of the standard nuts of the upper coupling bolts of the engine, a steel strip measuring 120 x 20 x 4 mm with M8 threaded holes into which the bolts are screwed is installed. The underframe and the base in the area opposite the engine are connected by spacer posts made of a metal rod with a diameter of 15 mm.

The ball bearings of the shaft on which the saw blade and belt pulley are mounted are installed in the bearing unit housing. As for the manufacture of the bearing assembly housing, shaft and parts used to secure the saw blade (Fig. 3), it is advisable to entrust their manufacture to a qualified turner, since not only the safety and reliability of the machine in operation, but also quality of woodworking.

The housing of the bearing assembly is machined from steel 20; it is designed to install bearings of type 203, which can, for example, be taken from the water pump of Moskvich 402-408 cars or purchased at a car store. It is advisable to make the spindle shaft and the saw blade mounting parts from higher quality steel, for example from steel 45. The dimensions of the saw blade mounting parts allow the installation of discs with an internal hole diameter of both 32 mm and 50 mm.

The housing of the bearing assembly is welded to a steel square measuring 75 x 75 mm with a wall thickness of 5-6 mm, length 82 mm, with the help of which the bearing assembly is secured to the underframe with MB screws with conical heads. The threaded holes used to attach it to the underframe should be drilled before welding using a template, which is then used to drill holes in the underframe. To avoid welding metal splashes, the bearing housings are rubbed with chalk before welding. It should be noted that it is recommended to drill all subsequent holes in the parts to be joined together during the rough preliminary assembly process, including cutting out a hole in the underframe used for installing the cutting tool, approximate size which is 200 x 30 mm.

The desktop is made of duralumin with a thickness of 4-5 mm or textolite, vinyl plastic or duralumin with a thickness of 8-10 mm. To allow the saw blade to pass through, a slot about 10 mm wide is made in the table. This can be done later, during the process of checking the operation of the machine. A boss is screwed to the end part of the underframe, to which the halves of detachable card cards are attached using screws with a diameter of M5. door hinges 90-100 mm long (right and left), which includes counter halves of loops with pins attached to the work table with M5 screws with a conical head. To ensure the orientation of the countersinks in the hinge plates with the fastener heads, the mating halves are swapped: the right half is joined to the left, and the left to the right mating part.

In the opposite part of the table there is a support-lifting device that provides smooth adjustment of the rise of the edge of the table relative to the underframe and, accordingly, the required amount of protrusion of the edges of the cutting tool relative to the table surface. At the first stage of manufacturing the machine, generally speaking, you can do without a lifting device by securing the table to the underframe and adjusting the lift of the table by placing washers.
Before pressing the bearings into the housing, they must be lubricated with LITOL-24 grease. When using bearings with other sizes, the dimensional chains of the bearing assembly housing must be adjusted. It is advisable to use ready-made nuts. The driven pulley can be adapted from an old washing machine or machined from an aluminum alloy.

The drive belt must be approximately 600 mm long, otherwise the use of cutting tools with a diameter of 200 mm or more will be impossible: 1 Some washing machines are equipped with just such belts. In combination with cutting tool Not large diameter“Of course”, shorter length belts can also be used.

The standard diagram for switching on the electric motor of the saw is shown in Fig. 4. The RTK-S type starting relay is fixed near the motor so that the arrow on its body is oriented vertically upward - otherwise the relay will not operate correctly. Practice shows that it is more expedient to use a capacitor starting system (Fig. 5), since it has been noted that with a working capacitor, the engine torque is noticeably greater.

The capacitor starting system does not require the use of a starting relay. Automatic shutdown of the starting capacitor is carried out using a modified two-key switch. The “Start” key (Fig. 6) is equipped with an elastic element - a piece of foam rubber or sponge rubber measuring 5 x 10 x 20 mm, which ensures that the key returns to its original state. The flag attached to this key ensures automatic operation of the second section of switch S2, which supplies power to the electric motor.

The electric motor is started by pressing the “Start” button for a period of time during which the electric motor reaches operating speed. After the pressure is removed, the “Start” key returns to its original state with an elastic element, opening the SI contacts, which disconnect the starting capacitors, while the “Stop” key remains in the on state, closing the S2 contacts. The electric motor is stopped by pressing the “Stop” button. When using a capacitor starting system, it is necessary to install a fuse with a current of about 6A.

To adjust the belt tension, the tie rod nuts are released and the underframe is moved relative to the engine, after which the nuts are tightened again. It should be borne in mind that during intensive use of an electric saw equipped with a capacitor engine starting system, the most weak link The machine may have a standard transmission belt. In this case, you can use a belt drive with a double belt.

When using a standard electric motor starting system, it is also advisable to connect a capacitor Cp to the starting relay terminals “O” and “P”, as shown by the dotted line in Fig. 4, although the starting relay monitors the moment of current increase quite clearly, not allowing the electric motor to develop significantly more power.

The parts of the electric motor starting system are mounted on a metal shield, z-shaped, bent in place, which serves to protect the electric motor from sawdust. The shield is made of galvanized roofing steel and secured with M8 nuts to the protruding ends of the lower coupling bolts of the electric motor at a distance of approximately 35 mm from it and screwed to the base with screws. A key switch is mounted on the front surface of the shield, and capacitors are mounted on the back side.

Using MB bolts, a guide made of a duralumin angle measuring 50 x 50 mm and a length of 600 mm is attached to the table, in which a family of holes with a diameter of 6 mm is drilled, allowing the guide to be attached to the table parallel to the saw blade at the required distance. It is advisable to install steel threaded bushings in the table.

A trapezoidal slot is made at the base of the saw with dimensions: At the bases of the trapezoid 70 and 30 mm, the height of the trapezoid is 150 mm. The slot serves to dump sawdust from under the disk into the storage plastic bag, which is put on the neck made under the slit and secured to it with twine or an elastic band. Sawdust is useful as mulch in gardening, and also as bedding for the cages of small animals, such as hamsters. Of course, for keeping animals, sawdust from chipboard, etc. cannot be used.

During operation, the electric saw is installed on a massive stand made of hardwood boards, such as birch, with a thickness of at least 25 mm. Inside the stand, near the corners of the box, bosses measuring 40 x 40 x 40 mm are placed, on which the base of the machine rests. The stand serves as a case for storing the saw, for which the saw is turned upside down and placed on the same bosses, but it can also be used as a hopper for collecting sawdust, since it is equipped with a bottom.

The design of the spindle assembly allows the installation of a wide range of various cutting and sharpening tools. Speaking about the selection of saw blades, we can recommend first purchasing a blade for rip sawing 1.6 mm thick, 200 mm in diameter with 48 teeth. Generally speaking, the power of the saw's motor is not very significant, so do not try to fit saw blades of large diameter and thickness; Do not purchase blades intended for cross cutting: if ripsaw and cuts across the fibers quite satisfactorily, then when trying to cut longitudinally using crosscut saw you're going to suffer a lot.

It should be borne in mind that when sawing large volumes of chipboard, a conventional steel saw blade “shrinks” very quickly due to the presence of various solid inclusions in the material. Therefore, if you need to saw large quantities of chipboard, I advise you to get a saw blade with cutting edges equipped with carbide inserts.

It is most productive to choose quarters with a cutter with an outer diameter of 125 mm, with a mounting hole of 32 mm. It is extremely useful to acquire a cutting disc for metal 3 mm thick, with a seat diameter of 32 mm, and an outer diameter of up to 200 mm, although using centering washers it is also possible to install disks with a seat diameter of 22 mm. In this case, cutting metal and profiles will not pose any problems for you. If you are using a router bit or cutting disc, the hole in the workbench may need to be slightly widened.

Drawings of parts that secure the universal woodworking head (UDG) to the spindle are shown in Fig. 7. By the way, I was forced to pay for the costs associated with the purchase of the UDG and the manufacture of installation parts due to the fact that the Rebir electric planer type I-5709 made in Latvia broke down literally after 4 hours of relatively light work - the armature of the electric motor burned out. Judging by the fact that spare anchors instantly disappear from the shelves, I realized that the reliability of this plane is extremely low and I should get a more reliable tool. I note that if you use an UDG, you will need to make a special work table, since a hole width of 55 mm is required to pass the cutters fixed in the head. Cutters for UDG can be made from commercially available planer knives by processing them on a cutting and emery circles on the same machine.

Before starting sawing, in order to avoid damage to the saw teeth, it is necessary to carefully inspect the workpiece for the absence of nails and other inclusions. This rule should be observed especially strictly when processing used wood. If metal inclusions are detected, they should be removed. If the engine stops due to overload during sawing, the saw must be turned off immediately, the cause of the overload must be eliminated and turned on again. The reason for the frequent repetition of such situations may be the dullness of the cutting edges of the saw blade. In this case, you should use a personal or “velvet” file of a semicircular or diamond-shaped section and sharpen the cutting edges, which can be done without removing the disk from the machine. After this procedure, the saw will work like a “beast” again. In passing, I would like to note the need to control the spread of the cutting edges of the saw teeth, which should approximately be 0.6-0.8 mm. The saw doesn’t like to cut without a divorce! You should also periodically clean the keyboard player's contacts.

When trimming edges, do not edged boards To obtain smooth edges on the board, you must first “beat” a line using a hemp or cotton cord rubbed with charcoal or chalk. It would also be nice to get an auxiliary support roller, which can be taken from the wringer of the washing machine, securing it on a stand of the appropriate height.

By raising the work table, you can install the abrasive stone and use the machine to sharpen the tool. A plywood disc with a diameter of up to 250 mm with glued sandpaper (“bayan”) will allow you to sand parts. Polished circle representing a package round blanks made of cloth sandwiched between two discs will facilitate the process of polishing metal and plastic parts with polishing paste.

It is very convenient to store cutting and fastening tools in a metal film can with a diameter of 300 mm. A piece of cloth soaked in oil is placed at the bottom of the jar, the saws are placed in a stack (it is advisable to separate them with cardboard spacers), they are wrapped with the ends of the fabric and the jar is closed with a lid. Now the instrument is not afraid of corrosion. You can attach an eyelet to the box, allowing you to hang the box on the wall.

When working on the machine, follow safety rules: be sure to use safety glasses and wear gloves or mittens. Remember that new fingers never grow back to replace the cut ones, and it is still very difficult to replant cut ones, despite the colossal advances of medical science.
I wish you success in your work!

Good afternoon, comrades!

I offer you my thoughts and experiences on sawing wood.

From all the forest travels that have happened in my life, I have come away with a strong conviction that a hiker (tourist, mushroom picker, hunter) does not really need a drink in the forest. With one exception - Node gets along.

I consider all other needs for cutting a tree trunk not relevant. The traveler does not need to perform construction works, felling of forests, procurement of firewood in commercial quantities. All work on arranging the parking lot is successfully carried out with a knife and an ax (namely an ax, and not those “Hutsul sokyrs” into which many of our comrades turn their tools).

Of course, if the purpose of the trip is to perform tasks that require a certain tool, the tool will have to be dragged. But now we are talking about that same forest pedestrian (tourist/mushroom picker/hunter) who carries all his luggage on himself, and always has matches, a knife, an ax in it.

Why might he need a saw in the forest? According to my observations, a trunk with a diameter of up to 100 mm is easier to cut (an ax can be used with it anyway), but more than 100 mm is easier to saw through, faster and less energy-intensive. This remark applies to places with a predominance of coniferous and soft hardwood. Oak, beech, hornbeam and other acacias require a saw right away, but I don’t go there.
Poles, spruce branches, and smaller firewood are easier to chop. Of the “large firewood”, only a couple of logs for the node seem necessary to me.

I consider the optimal diameter to be up to 150-200 mm. With a length of 1.5-2 m, one such log (dry) will weigh approx. 30 kg and a heating device will not undermine the fragile health of the traveler. A 30cm/2m log will weigh about 70kg - a bit much.

So, we have the technical specifications for the “pedestrian saw”:

— possibility of malling round timber diameter 20 cm (max. 30 cm);
— minimum weight (preferably negative);
— mode of use is periodic, rare;
— there is time to prepare for use (there is no need to sharply snatch and saw);
— the placement of luggage in the stowage is arbitrary (not a knife or a weapon).

Of the types of saws known to me (chain, circular, hacksaw, band saws), I chose the band bow saw as the simplest.

The frequently used “hacksaw” has significant weight (thicker and more durable knife, massive handle) due to its design. Popular pocket saw chains are unacceptably wide for self made cut (up to 6 mm) and, compared to bow tape, more weight.

A bow saw requires a saw blade, blade fasteners, and a cord. Everything else is in place in 5 minutes.

The length of the saw blade should exceed the diameter of the log (the larger the better, it will be more convenient to saw) and in our case a blade with a length of 300 mm is suitable (similar to a common blade for metal).

Two pieces of mounting paper tape and two M5 screws with nuts, a saw blade - that’s the whole kit for the saw.

Making the frame and assembling the saw took approx. 10 minutes. I used a cord from the drawstring of my wife’s jacket as a tie. dimensions saws approx. 30x30 cm, maximum cutting depth up to 15 cm. In principle, it is possible to saw a log up to 30 cm - in a circle.

I sawed a trunk with a diameter of 13-14 cm. Two cuts took 5 minutes each (though one saw handle broke and had to be replaced). If I had been chopping this thing for half an hour, my strength would have gone completely.

I took the saw apart, put the sticks into the fire, and the canvas into the backpack.

The first experience made changes to the performance characteristics of the tool:

1. The saw must be transverse (the tooth shape is an equilateral triangle, the sharpening is double-sided). With such a saw it is impossible to cut otherwise than across - so it’s not necessary. In addition, such a saw has both movements (both there and back) that are functional;

2. The saw length of 300 mm is clearly not enough. Maximum amplitude
sawing (comfortable arm span) no more than 60 cm. I consider the most convenient saw length to be 40-45 cm (a person who likes to work with his hands at home can check the height of the stool on which he saws off the baseboard without damaging the parquet). For packing into a backpack, 40 cm is just right. So - length 400 mm;

3. The saw tooth spread must be SUFFICIENT. And the wood is not too dry in the forest, and the trunk tends to be pinched in the cut when the trunk sag. The total spread (cut width) should be 2-3 times the thickness of the blade. More is better, but cutting will be harder - a larger volume of wood will have to be “gnawed out”;

4. At least one diagonal in the saw frame is required. For example, another cord connecting the top of the front handle to the middle (or opposite end) of the spreader bar. So that it works in tension during the main working stroke of the saw (from itself).
I have prepared for the summer voyage new saw- I bought the cheapest hacksaw, removed the handle, cut off the saw part about 30 mm wide, drilled at the ends and put it in the stack.

Assembling the saw took 10-15 minutes, a diagonal was added.

Frame dimensions approx. 45x45 cm, blade length approx. 45 cm, cutting depth 20-25 cm. The saw blade from the first experiment is nearby for comparison.

I sawed sushi with a diameter of 20-25 cm. One cut took approx. 5 minutes. It’s quite convenient to work, the main move is on yourself (you get used to it quickly)

Comments based on the results of the work:

1. The thickness of the sticks used for the frame should be 3-4 cm. The strength is sufficient and it is more convenient to hold;

2. The used punched paper tape must be replaced with a wider strip (for example, galvanized paper) - the canvas was twisted on a loop made of narrow punched paper tape.

I always have a folding knife with a wood saw with me in the forest.