Buy an old-style toilet cistern. What does a toilet cistern flush device consist of? A real owner must know the basic designs of drainage tanks

Old style cisterns are simple in design. This makes the system quite reliable, but even the most primitive devices break down periodically.

If primitive people could repair hammers, then a modern Internet user has enough skills and knowledge to repair an old mechanism at home.

The design of these products is different water and a design designed using the simplest physical laws. The main components are: a filling device, consisting of a movable lever, on one side of which there is a float, and on the other, a valve that shuts off the water, and.

The most “ancient” toilet flush cisterns of the old style consist of cast iron bell plug with soft rubber gasket. When you press the outer lever, the bell rises and water rushes down through the opened hole.

In later designs the bell was replaced by rubber or plastic bulbs. When the container is empty, the float lowers and the lever opens the valve through which water begins to flow. As the container fills, the lightweight part rises until it reaches a position where water stops flowing into the device.

Possible breakdowns and repair methods

In any even the most primitive mechanism, sooner or later they begin to fail various parts. Most breakdowns in old-style drainage devices are fairly easy to fix.

Continuous water supply

First of all, you need to check Is the filling valve leaking?. To do this, remove the cover and lift the float lever. If after this water enters the tank, it means that the valve itself is broken and needs to be replaced.

For this turn off the tap in front of the tank and drain the water. wrench the part connecting the valve to the water supply is unscrewed, the float lever is removed, the fixing nuts are removed and the valve is pulled out. A new one is installed in its place. The float lever is set to the optimal position after water fills the housing.

If the water flow is completely blocked when the lever is raised, The problem may be caused by the following reasons:

• Skewed float lever (rod)– leads to the fact that it begins to cling to the bushing, the float does not float up completely and the valve does not close. In this case, the rod is pulled out and straightened.
• If the float seal is broken it remains partially or completely submerged in water and does not close the valve. In this case, it is replaced with a new one. If there is no suitable model, the damage can be sealed with heated plastic or sealant, after first removing all liquid from the leaking part, but this is a temporary measure.

Constant outflow of water

If it is not empty yet, it means that the tightness of the drain mechanism is broken and water seeps between the body and the bell (pear). There are several reasons that cause this malfunction:

• Corroded or dirty seat surface lead to the fact that deposits prevent the drain mechanism from closing tightly. In this case, it is cleaned with emery cloth.
• The appearance of a gap between the body and the seat lead to the same problems. In this case, it is necessary to tighten the fastening nuts with a socket wrench.
• Sometimes the guide bushing falls out of the seat– this leads to the constipation being skewed when lowering. In this case, the sleeve is inserted into the hole of the arc and wrapped with an elastic band.
• The culprit of the breakdown may also be the release lever., which in the wrong position prevents the pear from completely covering the saddle. In this case, you need to bend it and lower it below the inlet of the underwater pipe by 2.5 mm.
  

  Second option - check the fastenings of the rocker arm holding plates and tighten any loose screws. This is quite difficult since the distance between the wall and the screw heads can be less than 10 cm.

  Filling the toilet above the recommended fill line takes away water at each flush and risks a "running toilet" if the fill level forces water down the overflow pipe. Water-saving toilets use a lower total volume of water to flush or clean the toilet, typically 1 gallon per flush to 6 gallons per flush. Synonyms: low flush toilet, low flush toilet, low flush toilet, high efficiency toilet.

  Water supply or fill valve for toilets

  Waterless toilets listed below. Valve ball valve or the toilet fill valve above.

  Early flush toilets: wall-mounted tanks

  Modern toilet designs - photographs, examples. A variation of the flush valve toilet is the flush valve toilet, which is used in bathrooms where the toilet was located below the building's sewer line exit to the sewer or septic tank.

You can try to tighten them with a short tool, pushing it into the screw slot. When performing these steps, you must ensure that vertical plate with four corners was located in a recess on the body.

Overflow problems

This is a fairly typical failure that is easy to identify. Water fills the tank and begins to flow out, if you turn off the tap, the flow of water from the device stops, and when you press the overflow socket, the flow stops - the fastening nut has become loose. In some cases, it is enough to turn the overflow several times clockwise and the nut will take its proper place.

Otherwise, you will have to resort to the following tricks. Need to drain the water from the tank, wait until all surfaces are dry.

If the nut does not unscrew completely, it appears between the overflow socket and the bottom of the tank wrap the gap tightly with sealing material and fill it with silicone glue or paint. Wait until the coating completely hardens.

If the nut is completely unscrewed, the overflow is removed, a sealant is wound onto its threads so that it fits tightly into the hole at the bottom of the tank.

Replacing the supply hose

Damage to the supply hose and gaskets at the junction leads to the appearance of water drops (the problem can be confused with) at the points where it is connected to the body of the drain device. First of all tighten the connecting nut.

If the leak remains, you need to turn off the water and disconnect the hose. The gasket is changed, the threads are covered with winding, the hose is reconnected to the tank and the nut is tightened.

Loud noise when filling

Sometimes when filling drain device For an old type tank, it makes a loud noise that can wake up household members. Can replace the part with a special stabilizing device, and thus fix the problem. If the pressure entering the housing is not too strong, the problem can be solved much easier.

The filling valve mechanism includes a short tube for draining water. It needs install the muffler vertically from a flexible plastic or rubber hose, lowering the lower end into the water at the bottom. This will help to avoid noise when water falls and the sound of a jumping float.

A familiar picture - you go to the toilet, and there is water under your feet. And it’s good, if not a few centimeters. Or, as an option, you come out of the toilet, but the tank does not want to empty the water. There may, of course, be other troubles. But despite all the variety, the reason for their occurrence is always the same - a malfunction of the toilet flush system.

It would be nice if restoring the functionality of the product only involves replacing the gasket or tightening a loose screw. What if not, and the entire system needs to be replaced? Sounds threatening. But don't worry.

Knowing the basic designs of drainage systems, how they work, having basic skills in repair work, it is quite possible to replace all the fittings yourself. But the question arises, where to start?

Before starting work, you just need to take 5 minutes of time and carefully consider how the flush system of our toilet works. This will save both time and money.

A real owner must know the basic designs of drainage tanks

You may not even know how to replace the fittings in a toilet cistern of a certain model. But all the work can be done the first time, if you at least roughly understand the structure of the main types of tanks. In fact, according to the principle of operation, everything is the same. The only difference is in the material of manufacture, the water supply system, and the drainage control. Let's look at the main models.

Old style tank - “Sovdepovsky”

It has two modifications: with a string - you pulled it, the water ran, and a newer one, what they began to call “compact” - without a pipe, with an upper rod for opening the valve.

The first fittings were made of metal. Only in the first case, the tank is mounted on a pipe and has only one lower hole. In the second, it stands on the toilet. The bottom has two pairs of holes: one pair for attaching the drain rod, the second for attaching the tank to the toilet, plus an additional hole for the overflow tube.

Tanks with one or two button flush control

Such fittings have plastic parts, with the main fastening in the center.

They differ from each other only in functionality:

1. With one button, the water drains all at once.
2. With two buttons - water can be “dosed”. One drains the entire volume of water, the other only part of it.

Tank with water supply from below

Modification of previous push-button ones. Everything is basically the same: fastening, material, operating principle. Only the pipe connected to the water supply is located not on the side, but on the bottom.

We begin work on dismantling the old fittings

Step by step, all the preliminary work looks like this:

• We turn off the tap on the riser that is responsible for supplying water to the tank. Disconnect the water supply hose.

After turning off the tap, you need to drain all the water and soak up any remaining water with a rag. Sometimes, in a hurry, people forget to do this. They begin to unscrew the fastening screws - and there is a “flood”.

Disconnect the tank from the drain pipe ( old model) or toilet in new products. In the first case, unscrew the large metal nut located on the pipe. In the second there are two nuts located below, under the toilet platform. In older modifications, there are difficulties with dismantling - the iron fasteners rust and are difficult to unscrew. A problem has arisen - we cut off the nuts. This can be done with a hacksaw blade or a file.

• Filming;
• Place the removed tank on a wide, stable surface;
• First we dismantle the float and the water pipe with the valve;
• Remove the main drain system.

When removing the drain mechanism, this applies more to old structures, you should be careful. A metal tool used incorrectly will damage the surface of the plumbing fixtures.

By deleting old fittings, wash the tank, wipe it dry. We inspect for damage in the form of chips on the holes or possible cracks appearing on the surface of the sanitary ware.

We install new fittings in place

It was said above that older models of drain systems have more holes for attaching fittings. This does not matter if new parts of similar design are installed in place of worn fittings. But often, to equip our old plumbing with a more reliable new “filling”, we have no choice but to replace the toilet cistern fittings that have become unusable with modern fittings. In particular, we will devote a few lines to this in the general assembly process.

Let's start:

• In older models, we attach a bracket with a rod and a bulb to the bottom of the tank metal fastening. In new ones, the drain system is secured in the center with one plastic nut.
• Be careful! We work with plastic fasteners gently. Excessive tightening force may damage one of the fastener elements.
• We install the water supply pipe. In older systems, we will then attach a spoke with a float to it. In new ones, the pipe can be combined with a water level control system. That is, the float and water intake pipe are combined into one structure. We install everything together.

• Next is the tank with the collected drainage system needs to be installed on the toilet.
• In older models, between the cistern and the toilet we use a large rubber gasket-shock absorber of an oblong shape. It “captures” two holes: a drain hole and a hole for overflowing water. If the “Sovdepovsky” compact is installed modern system drain, close the additional hole for the water overflow tube with a plug.

• Compact today complete with a shock absorber gasket in the form of a ring.
• We place the tank on the gasket installed on top of the toilet. We press it to the toilet with two fastening bolts and nuts.

When buying fittings, you need to focus on original products, from a “branded” manufacturer. It will last longer and there will be fewer problems during operation.

The assembled drain system needs to be adjusted

For this:

• we adjust the position of the float so that the distance from the surface of the water to the top of the container, with the tank filled and the valve in the water supply pipe closed, is within 4-5 centimeters. Or the water was 1-2 centimeters below the edge of the hole in the water supply pipe;
• the top of the overflow tube should be approximately 2 centimeters above the water level.

All. Close the lid and we can use it.