Known for a series of articles. And more recently, Lyokha defended his dissertation (March 21, 2014) in the specialty 05.09.03 - "Electrical complexes and systems" and is slowly returning to creativity.
Congratulations to Alexey and we are waiting for new articles!
Manufacturing printed circuit boards in amateur conditions - not such a simple matter, if you pursue the goal of not only the quality of the trace, but also the beauty of the design as a whole.
Repeatedly in the open spaces of the network and with friends, I had to see printed circuit boards that did not inspire confidence in the device simply because of their appearance.
Rice. 1
The beauty of the board consists of several components, and one of the main ones, in my opinion, is smooth edges and a strict rectangular shape (boards of a more complex shape are rather a special case).
It is easiest to cut textolite at home with metal scissors, but there is a problem - under the pressure of the blades, the material is deformed and stratified. This is especially true of modern Chinese-made textolite, with which Lately I had to deal with most of the time. The degree of deformation depends on general case from the skill of the master, the shape and size of the scissor blades, the presence of play between them, as well as their sharpening.
Another, also quite well-known, but already more complex cutting method is the combination of a cutter from a fragment of a hacksaw + a metal ruler (Fig. 1). There is no deformation here anymore, but it is noticeably more difficult to cut evenly - not only do you need to control the pressure on the cutter, you also need to hold the ruler so that it does not leave, and it is better throughout the entire cutting, and not just at the beginning.
Having suffered with holding the ruler and not wanting to cut with scissors, I made the simplest device (Fig. 2), which allows cutting textolite with a cutter from a hacksaw blade without fear for quality and with little or no effort - a bed for cutting textolite.
Rice. 2. Bed for cutting textolite (general view).
The base of the bed can be a piece of plywood or chipboard, 15-20 mm thick. With the help of two bolts, tightly glued into the base on epoxy resin(Fig. 3), a corner is pulled to the frame, while the outer edge of the corner is aligned with the ruler using a file and sandpaper.
Rice. 3.
Bolts, nuts and washers are selected stainless, although ordinary ones will suffice, if not cut on an industrial scale. The marked workpiece is placed under the corner and aligned along the edge, taking into account the thickness of the cutter (~ 1 mm) inside or outside. To prevent the textolite from slipping, a piece of PVC electrical tape is glued to the pressing edge of the corner (Fig. 4).
Rice. 4.
Having tightened the nuts, we just have to carefully run the cutter along the edge of the corner approximately 7-10 times (for standard thickness 1.5 mm) until the part to be cut can be broken off (Fig. 5).
Rice. 5.
In this case, our only task is to control the pressure on the cutter. It should be the same throughout and not too big.
Having cut several boards on this "structure" different sizes, I can say one thing - a very convenient thing in the household! I recommend everyone to get it.
The only drawback is that she does not know how to automatically control the pressure on the cutter.
While writing the article, the idea arose to take the guides from the A4 printer and make a cutting block with a spring-loaded cutter, but I think that's enough for now. Learning how to press the cutter is not so difficult, the main thing is that the workpiece is securely fixed!
For this, I want to say thank you to everyone for your attention and wish you good luck in your work!
Hi all. According to the working moments, a fiberglass of a certain size was needed. But it didn't work out to buy right away. In one place they sell but do not cut, in another place they cut but do not sell. Fiberglass is sold by weight. And most of the sheets are not small. In one store I found a sheet 1m by 0.95m, a little strange size;)
I didn’t find fiberglass cutting in Moscow, I found several places where they cut from 15-100 km from Moscow. And cutting the road) 3500 per meter. Therefore, we decided to cut with our own hands, on our own)
Cutting fiberglass is similar to cutting Plexiglas
Since I cut it alone, I decided to fix it first.
For insurance, I put hardboard under the fiberglass, I suddenly get carried away)
In order for the cut to be perfectly even, I glued an iron ruler to the cut line on double-sided tape and molar tape (temporarily).
The knife for cutting was used the same as for cutting Plexiglas. Only because it is fiberglass, it had to be sharpened twice (during cutting).
To speed up the process fiberglass cutting, between cutting with a knife "passed" several times with a hacksaw for metal. She, too, quickly blunted and thrashed. And it also heats up very quickly.
miniature a circular saw for cutting textolite is very convenient and useful thing in the manufacture of printed circuit boards at home. Cutting metal with scissors is not very convenient, especially when the size of the workpiece is much larger than the length of the cutting blade of the scissors. At the beginning, everything goes fine, and then the textolite begins to bend or take the form of a spiral, the foil can peel off, in general this method creates unnecessary trouble. You can, of course, cut with a cutter made from a hacksaw blade, but this method can be used when you need to cut 1-2 blanks, and if there are a lot of them, this process is very long and tedious. Therefore, in this article I suggest everyone to make their own small at home desktop machine for cutting textolite, which will greatly facilitate the manufacture of printed circuit boards.
Assembly miniature circulars began to be made from improvised materials, what was found at home in the pantry. Of course, cutting discs will have to be purchased on the market or in a store.
Cutting disc and machine parts
In the tool market, where drills, grinders, punchers are sold, I found a disk slotted cutter with an outer diameter of 40 mm and a thickness of 0.25 mm, Type I, Z=100, an inner diameter of 10mm. It is advisable to put a cutter with an outer diameter of 50 mm, but unfortunately this was not found with the sellers.
The base to which the disk cut-off cutter will be attached is preferably made on a lathe, but this is if anyone has such an opportunity. Due to the lack of a familiar turner, I invented everything on my own. It is this device that will hold the cutter that I made from the video head from a failed video player.
The principle of action is to remove the head from the body and disassemble it.
From one half of the device, you need to knock out the shaft, on the other half, remove all unnecessary, as shown in the photo. The shaft from such a video head has a diameter of 6 mm. Then there was a problem with finding a pulley for this shaft. The way out was found in this way - I found a suitable size bolt made of brass, drilled a hole with a diameter of 6 mm in the center. Then, clamping this bolt into the drill chuck and with the help of various needle files and sandpaper, he made a pulley for the shaft and the electric motor.
for mount disc cutter you can use parts from a ceramic variable resistor. The bushing from the potentiometer has an M10 thread, and its inner diameter is 6 mm, this is what was required! Then I pressed it onto the shaft and soldered it to a blank made of bronze, which is located on the video head.
About the electric motor
At first, all fitting was carried out under the DPR-42-N1-03 motor, shown in the photo.
But such an engine turned out to be rather weak in power, I had to change it to a more powerful one, which could freely drill a metal plate with a 4 mm drill at 30V. The motor is powerful but its shaft diameter is 4 mm.
The pulley mounted on the engine has an outer diameter of 6 mm and is manually made from a 10 mm brass bolt. The driven pulley is also brass with a diameter of 9 mm, it was removed from an old tape recorder and its inner hole was drilled to 4 mm.
Passing straps can be cut from a bicycle tube
The body of the circular saw is made of 3 mm fiberglass coated on both sides with foil.
Due to textolite covered with foil, it became possible to assemble the body by soldering without the use of various corners and bolts with nuts for connection. For everyone who starts to assemble such a machine, the body dimensions may differ from mine, as well as the material for manufacturing, it’s just who has enough imagination and ingenuity .
