Pocket chain saw. How to make your own pocket saw from a chain Saw from a chainsaw chain

It is very convenient to use such saws during hiking trips - they take up very little space, and they saw perfectly. It is not always possible to buy a factory-made tool, but there is an easy way to make it yourself.

What will be required

The saw is made from a chain from a chainsaw, a piece of polymer sling 60–70 cm long and about 3–4 cm wide was used for the handles. The elements are fastened with M 6 bolts with washers and nuts. The plastic is glued together with an iron through baking paper, the chain is disassembled with a small grinder and a punch.

Manufacturing process

Lay the chain on a flat surface, find the connecting link. With a cordless angle grinder or angle grinder, carefully cut off the head of the rivets connecting the chain links.

Put the chain on a vise and break through the axles of the connecting rivets, the chain will be disconnected.

Prepare two pieces of polymer sling, each about 30 cm long. Bend them in half, the size of the loops should ensure a comfortable hand position while working with a saw. Bend the ends 3-4 cm each and fold them together. Thus, a reinforced knot is prepared for attaching the chain.

Place a piece of baking paper on a piece of board, one end of a bent sling on it, paper again on top. Heat the prepared place with an iron until the polymer melts and sticks together. Heat carefully, do not allow the plastic to completely melt - some types become brittle, while sawing, the chain fixation point cracks, the tool will have to be repaired in field conditions. Using this technology, process all four ends of the pieces of tape.

Using a punch, make holes for the bolts. They should be located approximately in the middle of the prepared place at a distance of 2-3 cm from the end.

Attach the chain to the handles. First, put a bolt with a washer in the hole, put an open chain link on it, then the other end of the handle and tighten the connection with a nut.

The hand chain saw is ready to use. Press the branch with your foot and try to cut it. If the chain is sharp, then it will take a minimum of physical effort and time to harvest firewood of the required length.

Tools

An electric saw is an indispensable tool for suburban area or in a private home. She simply copes with cutting thick branches, boards and different material from wood. Even the most reliable tool has its own degree of wear, sometimes it is necessary to fix small or large breakdowns. Repair electric saw their hands is possible only in certain cases and in the presence of certain abilities and equipment. Often the tool has to be given to the service. But there are some breakdowns that are simply fixed without the help of others.

Overview of the design of the chain saw

In order to master the ability to repair power saws, you need to be aware of their design. The main element that cuts the material is the saw chain, which is driven by a motor. The chain itself is a combination of cutting links, which are fastened together by hinges. The movement of the chain is done on a plate, which is called a tire. Do-it-yourself power saw from a grinder. This part is made of steel of the highest quality, which is not subject to chips, scratches and corrosion - this is the main indicator of the property of the tool. Tires are distinguished by design:

welded;
one-piece with a removable tip;
one-piece with a tip made of carbide materials.

A welded tire is something similar to a "sandwich", which is welded from 3 constituent parts in one, with all this, a driven sprocket is riveted into the structure. One-piece design with interchangeable tip - 1 sheet product, normal for long instruments. In such a tire, the main load falls on the roller bearing of the driven sprocket. One-piece configuration reduces friction losses by 8-10%. If a tool with a solid bar made of carbide materials, then it is normally suitable for working with the highest load, also for operation in conditions of the presence of a huge amount of sand, dust and dirt.

1. CHAIN ELECTRIC SAW FROM THE BULGARIAN OWN HANDS. When working with an electric saw of any configuration, you need to keep in mind the possibility of a “kickback” appearance. throwing the tool towards the person performing the work. This situation occurs if the very end of the saw bar rests against the material being processed. To avoid injury in such a situation, manufacturers equip saws with an automatic chain brake.

Overview of possible malfunctions of electric saws

If the saw does not cut, need to check availability of power, integrity of wires and connections.
If everything is in order in the power supply, you need to check the chain brake, which blocks the operation of the tool. To eliminate this problem, you need to move the brake shield to another position.
If the measures described above did not turn on the saw, then need to check cable and plug integrity.
If the power of the saw has decreased, the performance has fallen, you need to change the carbon brushes, which, apparently, have worn out.
Quite often, the chain begins to stop not immediately, but after a certain amount of time. The longer the saw is operated, the larger this time gap becomes. To get rid of this task, you need to change the saw brake band, which has worn out over time.
Often in the work of the saw there is a nasty, ear-cutting sound. Such a sound often occurs due to a lack of oil in the mechanism or due to contamination of the grooves that conduct it. A chain saw is a saw How to make a bird feeder with your own hands. It's easy to fix the problem - fill in the oil and clean the furrows.
It is important to use only original spare parts that are recommended by the manufacturer. Using spare parts from other companies often results in tool breakage or unsafe situations.
If there is damage to the case, then for the sake of your safety, the saw must be handed over for repair.
Do not replace the cutting parts of the tool that are not recommended by the manufacturer or do not fit the design.

CHAIN ELECTRIC SAW FROM BULGARIAN WITH YOUR OWN HANDS

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Homemade electric chain saw

Homemade removable adapter for grinder, turning it into chain saw.

Electric saw sharpening

One of the elements of the saw that you need to monitor yourself is the chain. Chain saw 2 years of operation, is it worth repairing an apartment with your own hands. It must be sharpened prophylactically, since in case of delay with this process, repair chain saw it will be impossible to do it by hand. It must be given to the service, where sharpening will be done on professional machines.

Some rules for working with electric saws

Chain saws are designed to operate at maximum speed, and should always be run at wide open throttle to increase productivity.
You should not cut at a right angle away from you, you should hold the saw at a slight angle from the body.
It is necessary to adhere to the instructions for repairing the electric saw, as well as purchase only those spare parts that which are recommended by the manufacturer.
Before transporting the saw, it is necessary to turn off the engine, keep the bar with the chain behind you when carrying, it is necessary to pack the saw in a casing before transportation.
Do not operate the saw above shoulder height as this increases the risk of an accident.
If the saw is stuck in the material, then it must be removed from there very carefully. The buoyant force acting on the saw increases when the upper part is clamped, which is quite dangerous for the operator.
When working with a log framed by thin branches, one should act very carefully, since in some cases thin material is clamped by a tire and leans back towards the person doing the work.
It is strictly forbidden to use a defective, misadjusted or incompletely assembled instrument.
Before starting work, it is necessary to check the operation of the saw switch.
It is necessary to constantly monitor the tension of the chain, because if it is poorly tensioned, then the risk of it jumping off the guides increases, this leads not only to injuries, but also to damage to the device.
Repair of power saws Partner, like any other saws, is recommended to be carried out in a specialized service center, since self repair leads to serious problems in the future.

It will take

Chainsaw chain (preferably old, already developed).
Emery machine.
File (round, thin, for sharpening teeth).
Thick metal rings (from a bunch of keys, or from a key fob) 2 pcs.
Tin and flux.
A gas burner or a powerful lighter.
A couple of links from a not too thick chain (as in the photo).
Machine oil.

Making a pocket chain saw:

First, we will rid the chain of everything superfluous and sticking out. Apart from the saw teeth, of course.

With the help of an emery machine, we grind or saw off all the protrusions, the teeth for the sprocket and tire, and the stops that are located immediately behind the saw teeth. Get a chain like this:

Next, you need to give desired shape saw teeth. Since we will work with a chain saw in both directions, and not as it worked on a chainsaw - in one direction, then the teeth, respectively, must be sharpened from both ends. On an emery machine, using a thin cutting disc give the teeth a triangular shape.

Armed with a round file, or a thin file, we sharpen the teeth on the chain.

Now we need two powerful iron rings, as well as a couple of links from a small chain.

We expand the links a little so that the iron ring put on later fits freely in them.

We connect the metal ring and the end of the chain with an extended link. It should turn out like this:

Why didn't you guess? Because I didn’t take into account that in winter, in the cold, plastic will slip out of woolen mittens, and it’s cold to work with gloves. So it is better to use rough branches of suitable thickness cut in the same place, on the spot, instead of handles. Although it’s everyone’s business here - I personally (as you can see in the video) managed just fine with metal rings attached to the ends of the saw chain when I sent the constantly slipping tubes into the fire ... so, after we connected all the parts of the saw chain, we need to solder the closed ends of metal rings and links, just in case. For greater reliability, so to speak. It takes too long to heat the metal rings with a soldering iron, therefore, I soldered them with a powerful lighter - I simply cleaned the metal surface to be soldered with sandpaper, smeared it with flux, warmed it up with a lighter and applied tin. It remains only to lubricate the saw chain with machine oil.

I used gun oil for this but, in the absence of such, you can use any. Even vegetable! That's all. It remains to be tested. As you can see in the video below, the chain handles dry wood just fine, even though I didn't use the handles.

If you need to cut down something more serious - it's never too late to cut a couple of branches for the handles. With such a saw, you can easily cut firewood for future use, so that later, without saving, you can maintain a fire for heating and cooking.

The most important and, perhaps, the biggest plus of this product is that it is very compact and light. Roll the chain into rings, put it in a bag, and put it in the pocket of a backpack or bag - a matter of minutes. Do not forget to lubricate the chain with oil, and file its teeth after each trip, and it will serve you for a long time, as well as any other thing with good care and kind, caring attitude.

A circular electric saw is a very useful thing in any household; in terms of necessity, it is perhaps in second place after an electric drill. If you have to use a saw and not very often, nevertheless, with the slightest possibility of manufacturing parts, I recommend getting such a machine. The saw of the proposed design can be equipped not only with a saw blade with a diameter of up to 200 mm, but also with cutting and grinding wheels, a milling cutter and a universal woodworking head.

The main components of the electric saw in the proposed version have undergone significant structural changes associated with strengthening the structure and changing the layout: the unit is frameless (Fig. 1). Unlike the prototype this design The saw provides not only sawing wood, but also planing and milling, as well as tool sharpening and metal cutting.

The basis of this design is the electric motor from washing machine, for example, type DAO-A. The advantage of this electric motor is exceptional reliability, and taking into account the fact that in an electric saw it works in more favorable conditions, it makes direct sense to ensure its operation in a more forced mode by replacing the starting relay with a capacitor starting system, which will be discussed below.

The base of the saw is sawn from plywood or board at least 20 mm thick with dimensions of 300 x 500 mm. The electric motor is fixed to the base with Mb screws with a conical head using corners 50 x 50 mm in size and 140 mm long, attached to the electric motor by its own standard coupling bolts so that the horizontal shelves of the corners are directed outward from the engine.

In a similar way, an underframe is attached to the upper part of the electric motor, made of plywood with a thickness of at least 15 mm and having approximately the same dimensions in plan as the base (Fig. 2). The holes in the squares, which serve for their fastening to the engine, in order to ensure the tension of the belt drive, are made of an oblong shape. Instead of the regular nuts of the upper coupling bolts of the engine, a steel bar measuring 120 x 20 x 4 mm with M8 threaded holes into which the bolts are screwed is installed. The underframe and the base in the zone opposite to the engine are connected by spacers made of a metal bar with a diameter of 15 mm.

The ball bearings of the shaft, on which the saw blade and the belt drive pulley are mounted, are installed in the bearing assembly housing. As for the manufacture of the bearing assembly housing, the shaft and the parts used to fix the saw blade (Fig. 3), it is advisable to entrust their manufacture to a qualified turner, since not only the safety and reliability of the machine in operation, but also woodworking quality.

The housing of the bearing assembly is machined from steel 20, it is designed for the installation of type 203 bearings, which can, for example, be taken from the water pump of Moskvich 402-408 cars or purchased at a car dealership. It is desirable to make the spindle shaft and the fastening parts of the saw blade from a higher quality steel, for example, from steel 45. The dimensions of the fastening parts of the saw blade make it possible to install disks with an inner hole diameter of both 32 mm and 50 mm.

The housing of the bearing assembly is welded to a steel square measuring 75 x 75 mm with a wall thickness of 5-6 mm, a length of 82 mm, with which the bearing assembly is fixed to the underframe with Mb screws with conical heads. The threaded holes for attaching it to the underframe should be drilled prior to welding using a template with which holes are subsequently drilled into the underframe. Bearing seats are rubbed with chalk before welding to avoid welding splashes of metal. It should be noted that all subsequent holes in the parts to be joined are recommended to be drilled together during the rough pre-assembly process, including cutting a hole in the underframe, which serves to install the cutting tool, estimated size which is 200 x 30 mm.

The desktop is made of duralumin 4-5 mm thick or textolite, vinyl plastic or duralumin 8-10 mm thick. For the passage of the saw blade in the table, a slot is made about 10 mm wide. This can be done later, in the process of checking the operation of the machine. A boss is screwed to the end part of the underframe, to which halves of detachable card cards are attached with M5 screws. door hinges 90-100 mm long (right and left), which include reciprocal halves of loops with pins, fastened to the desktop with M5 screws with a conical head. Reciprocal halves to ensure the orientation of countersinks in the hinge plates with fastener heads are interchanged: the right half is joined to the left, and the left to the right counterpart.

In the opposite part of the table, a support-lifting device is located, which provides smooth adjustment of the rise of the table edge relative to the underframe and, accordingly, the required amount of cutting tool edges protrusion relative to the table surface. At the first stage of manufacturing the machine, generally speaking, you can do without a lifting device by fixing the table on the underframe and adjusting the table rise by setting washers.
Before pressing the bearings into the housing, they must be lubricated with LITOL-24 grease. When using bearings with other dimensions, the dimensional chains of the bearing housing must be corrected. It is desirable to use nuts ready-made. The driven pulley can be adapted from an old washing machine or machined from aluminum alloy.

The drive belt must be approximately 600 mm long, otherwise it will not be possible to use a cutting tool with a diameter of 200 mm or more:1 Some washing machines are equipped with such belts. In combination with cutting tool Not large diameter, of course," shorter belt lengths can also be used.

The regular circuit for switching on the electric motor of the saw is shown in fig. 4. The starting relay type RTK-S is fixed near the motor so that the arrow on its body is oriented vertically upwards - otherwise the relay will not work correctly. Practice shows that it is more expedient to use a capacitor starting system (Fig. 5), since it is noted that in the presence of a working capacitor, the engine torque is noticeably greater.

The capacitor start system does not require the use of a start relay. Automatic shutdown of the starting capacitor is carried out using a modified two key switch. The "Start" key (Fig. 6) is supplied with an elastic element - a piece of foam rubber or sponge rubber measuring 5 x 10 x 20 mm, which ensures the return of the key to its original state. The flag attached to this key provides automatic operation of the second section of the switch S2, which supplies power to the electric motor.

The electric motor is started by pressing the "Start" key for the time during which the electric motor will reach its operating speed. After the pressure is removed, the “Start” key returns to its original state with an elastic element, opening the contacts SI, which turn off the starting capacitors, while the “Stop” key remains on, closing the contacts S2. Stopping the motor is done by pressing the "Stop" button. When using a capacitor start system, it is necessary to install a fuse for a current of about 6A.

To adjust the belt tension, the nuts of the tie rods are released and the underframe is displaced relative to the engine, after which the nuts are tightened again. It should be borne in mind that during intensive use of an electric saw equipped with a capacitor engine start system, the most weak link the machine may turn out to be a standard transmission belt. In this case, a double belt drive can be used.

When using a standard system for starting an electric motor, it is also advisable to connect the capacitor Cp to the outputs of the starting relay "O" and "P", as shown by the dotted line in Fig. 4, although the starting relay monitors the moment of current increase quite clearly, not allowing the electric motor to develop significantly more power.

The details of the electric motor starting system are mounted on a metal shield bent in place in a z-shaped manner, which serves to protect the electric motor from sawdust. The shield is made of galvanized roofing steel and fastened with M8 nuts to the protruding ends of the lower coupling bolts of the electric motor at a distance of about 35 mm from it and screwed to the base with screws. A key switch is attached to the front surface of the shield, and capacitors are mounted on the back side.

A guide is attached to the table with Mb bolts, made of a duralumin corner measuring 50 x 50 mm and 600 mm long, in which a family of holes with a diameter of 6 mm is drilled, allowing the guide to be fixed to the table parallel to the saw blade at the required distance. It is desirable to install steel threaded bushings in the table.

At the base of the saw, a trapezoidal slot is made with dimensions: At the base of the trapezoid 70 and 30 mm, the height of the trapezoid is 150 mm. The slot is used to dump sawdust from under the disc into the accumulative plastic bag, which is put on the neck, made under the slot, and fixed on it with twine or elastic. Sawdust is useful as mulch in gardening, as well as bedding for cages of small animals, such as hamsters. Of course, for keeping animals, sawdust from chipboard, etc. use is not allowed.

During operation, the electric saw is installed on a massive stand made of hardwood boards, such as birch, with a thickness of at least 25 mm. Inside the stand, near the corners of the box, bosses measuring 40 x 40 x 40 mm are placed, on which the base of the machine rests. The stand serves as a case for storing the saw, for which the saw is turned upside down and placed on the same bosses, but it can also be used as a bin for collecting sawdust, as it is equipped with a bottom.

The design of the spindle assembly allows the installation of a wide range of various cutting and grinding tools. Speaking about the selection of saw blades, we can recommend that you first purchase a blade for ripping 1.6 mm thick, 200 mm in diameter with 48 teeth. Generally speaking, the power of the saw motor is not very significant, so do not try to fit saw blades of large diameter and thickness; do not purchase blades designed for cross cutting: if ripsaw and saws quite satisfactorily across the fibers, then when trying to cut longitudinally with cross saw you're getting pretty worked up.

It should be borne in mind that when sawing significant volumes of chipboard, a conventional steel saw blade "sits down" very quickly due to the presence of various hard inclusions in the material. Therefore, if you need to cut significant amounts of chipboard, I advise you to get a saw blade with cutting edges equipped with carbide inserts.

Quarters are most productive to choose a cutter with an outer diameter of 125 mm, with a bore of 32 mm. It is extremely useful to get a cutting disc for metal with a thickness of 3 mm, with a bore diameter of 32 mm, and an outer diameter of up to 200 mm, although using centering washers it is also possible to install discs with a bore diameter of 22 mm. In this case, cutting metal and profiles will not be any problem for you. If a milling cutter or cutting disc is used, the hole in the work table may need to be widened slightly.

Drawings of the parts that secure the universal woodworking head (UDG) on the spindle are shown in fig. 7. By the way, I was forced to pay for the costs associated with the purchase of UDG and the manufacture of installation parts due to the fact that the electric planer "Rebir" type I-5709 made in Latvia broke down literally after 4 hours of relatively unstressed work - the anchor of the electric motor burned out. Judging by the fact that spare anchors instantly disappear from the shelves, I realized that the reliability of this planer is extremely low and a more reliable tool should be acquired. I note that in the case of using UDG, it will be necessary to make a special desktop, since the passage of cutters fixed in the head requires a hole width of 55 mm. UDG cutters can be made from commercially available planer knives by machining them on a cut-off and emery circles on the same machine.

Before starting sawing, in order to avoid damage to the saw teeth, it is necessary to carefully inspect the workpiece for the absence of nails and other inclusions. This rule should be especially strictly observed when processing wood that has been in use. If metal inclusions are found, they should be removed. If the engine stops due to overload during sawing, the saw must be switched off immediately, the cause of the overload removed and switched on again. The reason for the frequent repetition of such situations may be the blunting of the cutting edges of the saw blade. In this case, you should use a personal or “velvet” file of a semicircular or diamond-shaped section and sharpen the cutting edges, which can be done without removing the disk from the machine. After this procedure, the saw will work again, like a "beast". Along the way, I note the need to control the divorce of the cutting edges of the saw teeth, which should be approximately 0.6-0.8 mm. Without a divorce, the saw does not like to cut! Keyboard contacts should also be cleaned periodically.

When cutting edges, do not edged boards to get even edges on the board, you must first “beat off” the line with a hemp or cotton cord rubbed with charcoal or chalk. It would be nice to get an auxiliary support roller, which can be taken from the squeezing device of the washing machine, fixing it on a stand of the appropriate height.

By raising the working table, you can install an abrasive stone and use the machine to sharpen the tool. A plywood disc with a diameter of up to 250 mm with a glued skin (“button accordion”) will allow you to grind parts. Polished circle, which is a package round blanks made of cloth, sandwiched between two discs, will facilitate the process of polishing metal and plastic parts with polishing paste.

It is very convenient to store cutting and fastening tools in a metal can with a diameter of 300 mm from under the film. A piece of cloth soaked in oil is placed at the bottom of the jar, the saws are stacked (it is advisable to separate them with cardboard spacers), wrapped with the ends of the cloth and the jar is closed with a lid. Now the instrument is not afraid of corrosion. An eyelet can be attached to the box, allowing you to hang the box on the wall.

When working on the machine, follow the safety rules: be sure to use safety glasses, work in gloves or mittens. Remember that new fingers never grow back to replace those cut off, and it is still very difficult to engraft the cut off, despite the tremendous advances in medical science.
I wish you success in your work!

Good time, comrades!

I offer you my thoughts and experiences on sawing wood.

Of all the forest journeys that have happened in my life, I have made a firm conviction that a hiking traveler (tourist, mushroom picker, hunter) does not really need a drink in the forest. With one exception - Node to get along.

I consider all other needs for kryazhovka a tree trunk not relevant. The traveler does not need to construction works, felling the forest, harvesting firewood in commodity volumes. All work on arranging the parking lot is successfully carried out with a knife and an ax (namely, with an ax, and not with those “Hutsul axes” into which many of our comrades turn their tools).

Of course, if the purpose of the trip is to perform tasks that require a certain tool, the tool will have to be dragged. But now we are talking about that very forest pedestrian (tourist / mushroom picker / hunter), who drags all the luggage on himself, and always has matches-knife-axe (ik) in it.

Why might he need a saw in the forest? According to my observations, a trunk with a diameter of up to 100 mm is easier to cut (any ax with it), but more than 100 mm is easier to cut, faster and less energy intensive. This remark applies to places with a predominance of coniferous and soft hardwood. Oak, beech, hornbeam and other acacias require a saw right away, but I don’t go there.
Poles, spruce branches, not large firewood are easier to chop. From the “large firewood”, it seems to me that only a couple of logs for a node are necessary.

I consider the diameter up to 150-200 mm to be optimal. With a length of 1.5-2 m, one such log (dry) will weigh approx. 30 kg and the heating device will not undermine the fragile health of the traveler. A log of 30cm / 2m will weigh about 70 kg - a bit too much.

So, we have the terms of reference for the "pedestrian saw":

- the possibility of buckling roundwood diameter 20 cm (max. 30 cm);
- minimum weight (preferably negative);
- mode of use is periodic, rare;
- there is time to prepare for use (there is no need to sharply snatch and saw);
- the location in the baggage is arbitrary (not a knife or a weapon).

Of the types of saws known to me (chain, circular, hacksaw, band saws), I chose the band bow saw as the simplest.

The frequently used "hacksaw" has a significant weight (thicker and stronger knife, massive handle) due to its design. Popular pocket saw chains are unacceptably wide for self made propyl (up to 6 mm) and, compared with the tape for luchkovka, more weight.

A bow saw requires a saw blade, blade fasteners and string. Everything else - in place in 5 minutes.

The length of the saw blade should exceed the diameter of the log (the larger, the better, it will be more convenient to cut), and in our case, a blade 300 mm long is suitable (similar to a common blade for metal).

Two pieces of mounting punched tape and two M5 screws with nuts, a saw blade - that's the whole set for the saw.

Making the frame and assembling the saw took approx. 10 minutes. As a tie, I used a lace from the wings of my wife's jacket. dimensions saws ok. 30x30 cm, the maximum cutting depth is up to 15 cm. In principle, it is possible to cut a log up to 30 cm - in a circle.

I sawed a trunk with a diameter of 13-14 cm. Two cuts of 5 minutes each (although one saw handle burst, I had to change it). I would chop this business for half an hour exactly, and my strength would go away without a trace.

I dismantled the saw, the sticks - into the fire, the canvas - into the backpack.

The first experience made changes to the performance characteristics of the tool:

1. The saw must be transverse (the shape of the tooth is an equilateral triangle, sharpening is double-sided). It is impossible to cut with such a saw otherwise than across - it’s not necessary after all. In addition, such a saw has both strokes (both back and forth) working;

2. A saw blade length of 300 mm is clearly not sufficient. Maximum amplitude
sawing (comfortable arm span) no more than 60 cm. I consider the saw length 40-45 cm to be the most convenient (a fan of working with his hands at home can check the height of the stool on which he saws off the plinth without damaging the parquet). For packing in a backpack 40 cm - that's it. So - length 400 mm;

3. The setting of the saw teeth must be SUFFICIENT. And the wood is not too dry in the forest, and the trunk strives to be clamped in the cut when the trunk sags. The total divorce (cut width) should be 2-3 blade thicknesses. More is better, but it will be harder to cut - a larger amount of wood will have to be “gnawed out”;

4. At least one diagonal in the saw frame is required. For example, another string that connects the top of the front handle to the middle (or opposite end) of the brace. So that it works in tension with the main working stroke of the saw (away from you).
I prepared for the summer voyage new saw- I bought the cheapest hacksaw, removed the handle, cut off the saw part with a width of about 30 mm, drilled at the ends and put it in the stack.

The assembly of the saw took 10-15 minutes, the diagonal was added.

Frame dimensions approx. 45x45 cm, blade length approx. 45 cm, cutting depth 20-25 cm. The saw blade from the first experiment is nearby for comparison.

Sawed land with a diameter of 20-25 cm. One cut took approx. 5 minutes. It is quite convenient to work, the main move is on yourself (you get used to it quickly)

Notes on the results of the work:

1. The thickness of the sticks used for the frame should be 3-4 cm. And the strength is sufficient, and it is more convenient to hold;

2. The applied perforated tape should be replaced with a wider strip (for example, from galvanization) - the canvas was twisted on a loop of narrow perforated tape.

A folding knife with a saw on a tree is always with me in the forest.