Well      10/12/2023

Treatment of stone fruits during flowering. Treatment of garden trees in spring. General approaches to chemical pest control methods

The garden is gradually waking up after a long winter hibernation, and the buds are about to begin to bloom. Now, in spring, fruit trees and shrubs especially need the protection and attention of the gardener. How to treat trees and shrubs in early spring, how to help our favorite “growers” ​​in order to cure diseases, protect against pests and unfavorable climatic conditions, we’ll figure it out together with the experienced gardeners of our portal, who have accumulated volumes of useful material on this topic over the years of gardening.

In this article we will look at:

  1. How to prepare a spring garden spray at home;
  2. Calendar of garden treatments in early spring in spring. When to carry out the first treatment;
  3. How to prepare Bordeaux mixture;
  4. How to cope with fungal diseases;

From a member of our portal Eleni He has three grandchildren, so his family attaches great importance to the safety of fruits and berries, and “no chemicals” are used at all. The question of what to spray fruit trees and shrubs with in the spring does not arise in this family: treating the garden against diseases and pests is done only with safe home remedies.

Home remedies for spraying fruit trees and shrubs:

  1. Garlic infusion;
  2. Infusion of onion peel.
    Green soap is added to these infusions for better adhesion.

An infusion of onion peels is made as follows: 350 grams of onion peels are poured with two liters of water, brought to a boil and cooled. The resulting solution is diluted in 10 liters of water with 2 tablespoons of green soap (sold in garden stores).

Garlic infusion recipe: 300 grams of whole, unpeeled garlic heads are passed through a meat grinder and filled with water. The mixture is infused for a day, stirring from time to time, 2 tablespoons of green soap are added, and diluted in 10 liters of water.

Also popular is the treatment of currant and gooseberry bushes with boiling water (not hot water, but just boiling water from a just boiled kettle), which is carried out even before the buds open. Try starting treatments with this - surprisingly, boiling water turns out to be no less effective than special substances.

HelgaFORUMHOUSE user

This is an old method of destroying the clutches of bud mites and the beginnings of powdery mildew.

How can we help our beloved “growing plants”, how can we treat them in order to cure diseases, protect them from pests and unfavorable climatic conditions? Let's see what experienced gardeners on our portal are doing.

  1. How to prepare a spring garden spray at home.
  2. Calendar of treatments for fruit plants in spring.
  3. How to prepare Bordeaux mixture.
  4. How to deal with mushroom plants.
  5. Why you can’t refuse spring garden treatments.

Treatment with home remedies

From a member of our portal Eleni He has three grandchildren, so his family attaches great importance to the safety of fruits and berries, and “no chemicals” are used at all. In early spring, he sprays all his garden bushes and trees with infusions of garlic and onion peels, to which he adds green soap for better adhesion.

An infusion of onion peels is made as follows: 350 grams of onion peels are poured with two liters of water, brought to a boil and cooled. The resulting solution is diluted with 10 liters of water with 2 tablespoons of green soap (sold in garden stores).

Garlic infusion recipe: 300 grams of whole, unpeeled garlic heads are passed through a meat grinder and filled with water. The mixture is infused for a day, stirring from time to time, adding 2 tablespoons of green soap.

Both of these infusions are used for spring spraying of all fruit crops.

Also popular is the treatment of currant and gooseberry bushes with boiling water (not hot water, but just boiling water from a just boiled kettle), which is carried out even before the buds open.

It is at this time that work can be done to preserve the harvest and increase it. How to treat trees and shrubs in early spring? Every gardener asks himself this question. Everyone wants their work not to be in vain, and the reward to be a good harvest of fruits and berries. Therefore, a number of measures should be taken to protect garden plantings.

The benefits of spraying

If you do not spray trees and shrubs, the garden will soon be affected by diseases and pests. This reduces productivity and slows down the appearance of fruits and berries. Before treating trees and shrubs in early spring, you need to decide on the methods for this activity. Spraying is carried out several times per season. It helps get rid of caterpillars, aphids, flower beetles, silkworms, powdery mildew, scab and other diseases and pests. Process everything and

Spraying time

Typically, garden plantings are treated three times during spring and summer. The effect of the solution lasts about two weeks. This is exactly what the minimum break between spraying should be. Treatment should be stopped 2-3 weeks before harvesting. It is generally not advisable to use chemicals after the ovary has appeared. Therefore, before treating trees and shrubs in early spring against diseases and pests, carefully read the instructions for the product. Shrubs are sprayed much less frequently. When berries appear on them, processing can be stopped altogether. To carry out this procedure, it is better to choose dry and windless weather.

Spraying stages

The first stage of processing occurs in the earliest spring. At this time, pests that have successfully survived the cold period are destroyed. Next comes the time of the second treatment. It is carried out after the leaves appear. Thus, gardeners get rid of awakening insects. At the same time, prevention of various diseases to which garden plants are susceptible is carried out. The plants are sprayed a third time after flowering. At this point, you can neutralize spider mites and moths.

Preparatory work

Before treating trees and shrubs in early spring, it is necessary to carry out some preparatory work. First, you need to go around your property and remove old fruits and existing pest nests. Old branches of plantings should be cut off. They are a good place for wintering and breeding of pests and diseases. We take the branches outside the garden and burn them. For shrubs, use a hot shower. To do this, water is heated to 70 degrees and poured onto the plants. This method helps get rid of many pests and their larvae that overwinter on bushes. This procedure must be carried out before the juices begin to flow, so as not to harm the plants. How to treat trees and shrubs in early spring without chemicals? Many experienced gardeners advise spraying garden plants with a solution. This is approximately 150 grams of salt per 10 liters of water. A few days before the first spraying, trees and shrubs should be dug up. We also cut off unnecessary shoots and branches.

First processing period

How to treat trees and shrubs against pests in early spring? The first treatment is carried out to prevent the formation of scab. Even before the buds swell, trees are treated with Fundazol or Skvor. There are many other products with similar composition. Before the procedure, the crown is thinned out and the trunk is covered with a layer of lime. When the buds begin to swell, another treatment is carried out, which disinfects the tree from the gall mite. For this you can use the drug "Neoron". Among the safer means is urea solution. 500 grams of the product are dissolved in 10 liters of water. This solution also has a beneficial effect on the quality of the soil, spreading throughout the season.

We continue early processing

Before treating trees and shrubs in early spring, you should carefully inspect them to identify any danger. Many drugs have a specific effect on a specific pest or disease. Therefore, it would be more advisable to use exactly the necessary components. When the first leaves begin to bloom, you need to carry out prevention against caterpillars that damage plant leaves. For this purpose, the drugs “Kinmiks” and “Fury” are used. For powdery mildew (as well as for repeated scab prevention), you can use “Fundazol” and “Skvor”.

We fight weeds

As you know, weeds are not good neighbors. They must be constantly fought, preventing them from growing and flowering. A good remedy for this is Roundup or similar drugs. Processing must be carried out with extreme caution. The tree trunk or bush must be covered with any material that will prevent toxic substances from entering the cultivated plant. Then spray Roundup on the weeds. The protection can be removed from the tree after a day. Remember that weeds are the best place for pests to breed.

Final stage

The final treatment of shrubs and trees is carried out after flowering. But this does not mean that the fight against pests and diseases is over. These are the main points of spraying, but it is advisable to carry out the procedure much more often. After flowering, the codling moth, aphid and leaf roller are activated. Here, the drug "Fury" is considered an excellent treatment tool. It is better to spray twice, with an interval of 20 days. Additionally, you can use the drugs "Skvor" or "Fundazol". If a tree trunk is damaged by black cancer, then it must be treated with a 1% solution and covered with garden varnish. Further treatment of trees is carried out as necessary or for prevention, but at intervals of two weeks. For small rodents you can use the drug "Zernotsin-U".

Shrub processing

Spraying shrubs has its own characteristics. It is carried out much less frequently. For treatment, almost the same preparations are used as for spraying trees. For powdery mildew, gray rot and fusarium wilt, you can take Fundazol. It also works well against fungi on gooseberries and raspberries. Before the buds appear, the shrubs are treated with Topaz. This remedy will help get rid of a special type of powdery mildew. During the swelling of the buds, “Clinmixol” and “Phosbecid” are used, which prevent the appearance of leaf rollers, sawflies and gall midges. After the ovary appears, re-treatment with Topaz is carried out. Against slugs, you can use Metaldehyde granules, which are scattered between plantings.

It is better to finish processing berry bushes during the ripening period of the fruits or a month before they are harvested. After harvesting, the plants should be treated again with any remedy for pests and diseases.

Folk remedies

There are many remedies that gardeners have come up with and tested in action. Traditional processing methods are distinguished by their minimal harmfulness to the future harvest. But the effect of their use is not so small. Tomato leaves, namely their infusion, help well in the fight against caterpillars and leaf rollers. Two kilograms of foliage are poured with 5 liters of hot water. After 5 hours, the infusion is boiled and filtered. After this, the product is ready for use. The spraying procedure must be repeated after a week.

Many gardeners are wondering: how to treat trees and shrubs against aphids in early spring? Along with ticks, this is a very common pest. To combat them, use a decoction of potato leaves. To do this, part of the tops is mixed with two parts of water. After 5 hours, place the mixture in a water bath for 40 minutes. Then the broth is filtered and cooled.

Bordeaux mixture is something that can be used to treat trees and shrubs in early spring before flowering. This is the most popular and proven method of struggle. It can also be used in subsequent spraying periods.

Very often, mosses and lichens form on the bark of trees. This is an excellent breeding ground for pests and diseases. Many novice gardeners are interested in how to treat trees and shrubs to remove moss in early spring? It is simply removed from the surface of the bark using burlap or other hard material. This is done before spraying so that the surface of the trunk is completely treated. Further appearance of moss must be controlled.

By carrying out the entire treatment complex, you can extend the life of trees and shrubs and achieve a good harvest.

All cultures. To combat wintering pests - treatment from the beginning of sap flow until buds open with the drug "Prophylactic". To prevent fungal infections, spray dormant buds and the green cone with copper-containing preparations, for example Bordeaux mixture 3%, fungicidal preparations "Horus", "Skor", "Rayok"(or their analogues) or biological product "Fitosporin" according to the instructions. Tree trunk circles also need treatment. Work is carried out at an average daily temperature of not lower than +5 °C.
Currants, gooseberries. Treatment against acaricides ( "Agravertine", "Aliot"). Before the sap begins to flow, you can douse the bushes and tree trunks with very hot water (+80...+90 °C) to destroy wintering pests.
Garden strawberry (strawberry). Use the drug "Aliot" from kidney mites and other pests.
Fruit trees. Treatment of winter damage (frost holes, cracks, rot, injuries from rodents). The damaged bark is removed, the exposed wood and bark sections are covered with garden varnish. If the damage is extensive, one or more bridge graftings are performed. Along the green cone (mid-April): from and - spraying with preparations "Ho-rus", "Skor", "Rayok". Dust the tree trunk circles with a layer of ash - this will repel ants and carriers.
Grape. During the period of swelling and bud opening - preventive treatment with Bordeaux mixture (1-2%) from (mildew).
Flower garden. Plants covered for the winter (roses, clematis, tree peonies), when ventilated, it is advisable to treat them with Bordeaux mixture (3%) or copper sulfate (1%), preparations "Hom" or "Ok-sihom". This can only be done in cloudy weather to avoid sunburn.
Greenhouse. Before planting the plants, it is recommended to fumigate the greenhouse with a sulfur bomb.

May June

Fruit trees. At the stage of bud formation (when they are not yet colored), spraying with insecticides ( "Herold", "Kinmiks", "Iskra M") or biological product "Fitoverm" from fruit moths, leaf rollers and other sucking and gnawing pests. 8-12 days after flowering, during the period of ovary formation, the treatment is repeated. To combat holey plum spotting and other fungal infections, it is recommended to treat fruit trees with the drug before and after flowering. "Skor". The interval between treatments should be no more than 14 days. During flowering, the use of drugs is prohibited.
Cherry. To prevent moniliasis, spray immediately after flowering. Bordeaux mixture (1%) or copper oxychloride (40 g per 10 liters of water).
Raspberries. When signs appear - spray "Fitosporin" according to the instructions.
Currant. For prevention, plants can be doused with a urea solution (50 g per 10 liters of water) from a watering can. If the disease does appear and develops rapidly, use a suspension of colloidal sulfur (1%) or drugs "Skor", "Topaz", "Tiovit Jet" according to the instructions. Before flowering, it is advisable to carry out preventive spraying against anthracnose: "Skor" mixed with growth regulators: “Epin-extra”, “Zircon”, “Immunotsi-tofit”.
Gooseberry. To prevent the disease with spheroteka (downy mildew), the bushes are sprayed on the leaves with a solution of soda ash and soap (50 g of soda and 40 g of soap per 10 liters of water) or "Topaz".
Garden strawberries. No later than 5 days before flowering, treatment with the drug is necessary. "Fitoverm" for the prevention of the appearance of raspberry and strawberry. Treatment must be carried out in the morning, in dry weather. If spots characteristic of fungal diseases are found on strawberry leaves, treat the plantings before flowering 1% Bordeaux mixture.
Roses. To prevent black spot at the beginning of leaf bloom, then in the phase of 2-3 pairs of leaves and before flowering, use copper sulfate or "Oxyhom". At the first signs of disease, treatment with drugs is necessary "Profit", "Ridomil Gold", "Skor", "Topaz". Can be used "Fitosporin". For rust, use copper-containing compounds, preparation "Pure Flower" used against powdery mildew and black spot.


July August

If caterpillars (codling moth, leaf roller, hawthorn) are noticed on plants during the summer, spraying with the drug is necessary "Herald" according to instructions. Used against aphids and spider mites "Fitoverm", "Biotlin", "Akarin", "Intavir" or "Iskra" with an interval of 10-14 days.
Cherry. In cool and humid summers with prolonged rains, there is a risk of moniliosis affecting cherries. For the prevention of disease during the growing season, it is used "Fitosporin" or "Fitola-vin" according to the instructions. Treatment of fruit-bearing trees and shrubs against pests and diseases is stopped no later than a week before harvest.
Grape. In cool and damp weather at the end of summer, grapes may appear. If the damage is minor, the solution will help baking soda(70 g per 10 l). This treatment can be alternated with spraying 1% solution of green soap. To prevent oidium (powdery mildew) during the growing season, use "Topaz" according to the instructions.
Roses. Low temperatures and high humidity can trigger an outbreak of powdery mildew. For severe damage, medications are used "To-groove" and "Skor", "Pure Flower". Before flowering again, it is advisable to repeat the treatment to prevent black spotting.


September October

Fruit trees and shrubs. After leaf fall, copper-containing preparations are used: 3% Bordeaux mixture or copper oxychloride and pest control preparations compatible with them: "Aktellik" And "Fufanon". Treatment against fungi and pests can be carried out simultaneously. Be sure to treat not only the trunk and branches, but also the circles around the trunk. All spraying should be carried out only at positive temperatures, since water that gets into the cracks of the bark expands and tears the tissue when it freezes.
Grape. Mature vines are treated before covering 3-5% solution of iron sulfate, half the concentration (1.5-2.5%) is used for young people.
Roses. Before sheltering (late October - early November), plants are sprayed generously to prevent infectious burns and fungal diseases. 3% Bordeaux mixture.
Greenhouse. Treatment of structures and containers with copper sulfate, spilling soil from bacteria "Fitolavin", and from viruses "Farmayodom".

Spring warmth awakens all living things from hibernation, including insects that hid for the winter under fallen leaves, in the soil or under the bark of trees. This is a busy time for gardeners. Before the plants finally wake up, you need to clear the garden of plant debris, remove coverings, make the necessary vaccinations, sanitary and formative pruning and transplants in a timely manner. But most importantly, in order to preserve the health and beauty of garden crops and count on a rich harvest of berries and fruits, it is necessary to protect trees, shrubs and strawberry plantings from harmful insects. This article will talk about spring gardening.

Chemical treatment of the garden in spring

Unfortunately, we have to admit that the effectiveness of using chemicals to treat the garden is much higher than using folk remedies or labor-intensive collection of caterpillars and beetles by hand.

  • Twice spring spraying of garden plantings gives a good effect in destroying harmful insects. Before flowering, the first treatment of the garden is carried out. For this you can use karbofos or keltan. After 10 days, immediately after the trees and bushes have flowered, the treatment is repeated. You can also treat the garden with other toxic agents, for example, “Marshal”, “Nero”, “Decis”.

  • When trees and shrubs are affected by fungal diseases, as well as in order to prevent such diseases, it is recommended to treat the garden in the spring with a solution of a copper-containing preparation - Bordeaux mixture, “Homa” or “Oxychoma”. It is recommended to use copper-containing preparations no more than once a year: either in the spring or in the fall after harvesting.
  • The advantages of using chemicals (pesticides) to treat the garden are their rapid action and the length of time the effect lasts. In addition, after three weeks from the date of treatment, the chemicals are completely decomposed. Therefore, the danger of this event for the future harvest is excluded.
  • However, gardeners should exercise extreme caution in this matter and strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions for using any chemical. After all, if you are too enthusiastic about chemicals in the garden, you can harm your health and the plants themselves.
  • To avoid unpleasant consequences from possible contact with chemical solutions, when spraying the garden you should always use a respirator or gauze bandage, gloves and safety glasses. Compliance with the processing times, dosages and safety measures recommended by the manufacturer will ensure that garden plants retain their viability after treatment, and the health of people and animals will not be threatened.

Treating the garden against pests in the spring with biological agents

  • Products for killing harmful insects that use biological organisms are becoming increasingly popular among gardeners: bacteria, viruses, fungi and soil microorganisms - biological products. Although the effectiveness of these products is somewhat lower than that of pesticides. But these drugs are more environmentally friendly.
  • Spring treatment of garden plantings is carried out with biological preparations “Fitoverm”, “Aktofit” or “Barrier”. Spraying is carried out twice: the first time long before flowering begins, the second time when the flower buds swell.

Fitoverm consumption table

  • A long time ago, when there were no chemicals that killed pests, people used decoctions and infusions of plants that had a repellent effect on harmful insects. It is also a biological plant protection agent.

Recipes for decoctions and infusions for treating the garden in spring

Gardeners who do not want to deal with chemistry prefer to protect their garden plants with infusions and decoctions prepared according to folk recipes:

  • A glass is placed in a half-liter jar garlic, pre-chopped on a combine or using a meat grinder. Add water to the jar and leave in a dark place. After a week, the contents are filtered into another glass container and tightly closed. To treat plants, add about 50 g of infusion to a bucket of water.

  • For spraying berry beds you can use infusion of dandelion roots and greens, fortunately in the spring there are always plenty of them. Place about 300 g of crushed dandelions in a bucket of water heated to about 50 degrees and leave for about 3 hours. To enhance the effect, you can add a couple of sprigs of celandine. The bucket needs to be covered with something so that it does not cool down longer. For spraying, the infusion is filtered.
  • To prepare tobacco infusion you will need 250 g of tobacco dust, which is added to a bucket of water. The mixture is infused for about 2 hours and then filtered. For better adhesion to the surface of the leaves, add 40g of dark laundry soap to the infusion.
  • Decoctions from potato and tomato tops help fight aphids, spider mites, caterpillars, apple moths and other pests of trees and shrubs; spraying is carried out after the flowering period. To prepare this product you will need approximately 1 kg of dried potato or tomato tops. Thrifty gardeners prepare tops for spring spraying in the fall. It is placed in a bucket of water, left for 3.5 - 4 hours, and then brought to a boil and simmered over low heat for half an hour. Next, the broth is filtered through cheesecloth.
  • Mustard powder infusion used when spraying after flowering of all fruit and berry plants against caterpillars, sawflies, moths, and apple moths. Half a glass of mustard powder is infused in a bucket of water for 2 days. Then the infusion is filtered. For spraying, the liquid must be diluted 2 times with water.
  • Dry wormwood used as a decoction to repel aphids, codling moths, gooseberry moths, caterpillars, copperheads and other insects. Dry wormwood can be bought at a pharmacy or prepared in the fall. Boil 1 kg of dry grass in half a bucket of water for 15 minutes, then cool and add infused chicken manure (1 kg of manure is infused in 3-4 liters of water for a day). The mixture is filtered and added to a volume of 10 liters.

Features of spring processing of fruit and berry plantings

Pest control of fruit trees in spring

  • Measures to protect pears, apple trees and other fruit trees are carried out in stages. At the first stage in March, crowns are formed and the trunks are cleared of lichens and growths of old bark. If rot is found under the bark, then the treated area is cleaned with a sharp knife to healthy wood and covered with iron sulfate and garden pitch. The same is done when insect larvae are found hibernating in cracks under the bark.
  • During the same period, the tree trunks are cleaned and loosened, the trees are sprayed with chemicals, and the trunks are whitened with lime to avoid sunburn. As a protective agent, you can use “Oleocuprite,” a means for exterminating wintering insects (aphids, copperheads, mites, scale insects).

  • In April, when the buds begin to swell, the trunks are tied with catching belts to catch the codling moth and apple blossom beetle, and the trees are sprayed, for example, with “Benzophosphate,” which is a contact insecticide. Its duration of action is about a month. This drug is almost harmless to pollinating insects.
  • During flowering, treatment with any preparations is stopped. Because pollinating insects may be harmed. At this time, agrotechnical measures should be carried out: loosening and weeding of the surrounding circles.
  • When the trees have finished flowering, a third spraying is carried out against harmful insects using chemical or biological agents.

Shrub processing

  • The currant and gooseberry bushes in the garden begin to wake up earlier than the fruit trees. Therefore, it is advisable to treat the bushes first. Before using chemicals, formative and sanitary pruning is first done. At the same time, branches infected with glassworm are identified - that is, branches with a black core, as well as dry branches affected by bud moths. Diseased branches are cut down to ground level and must be burned.

  • It is also necessary to remove the swollen buds in which the currant bud mite is located. A hot shower from a watering can (up to +70oC) gives a good effect in combating harmful insects. The bushes should be subjected to this procedure until the leaves appear and the buds swell.
  • As soon as the snow melts, it is advisable to cover the top layer of soil around the tree trunks with roofing felt or black film, having previously cleared last year’s leaves and loosened the soil under the bushes. This is done in order to block the exit of pests and their larvae from the upper layers of the soil. All old foliage is burned. At the end of flowering, the shelters are removed.
  • Before the flowers bloom, the bushes are sprayed with a chemical or biological agent to kill mites, bud moths, aphids and other harmful insects.

  • If warty growths are observed on the bushes, this indicates they are affected by the acacia false scale insect. The larvae of this pest appear from eggs laid by females under the growths; they feed on the juices of the plant. If the infection is severe, the bush may die. It is advisable to treat such bushes with nitrophen in early spring.
  • Shrubs affected by anthracosis, a fungal disease in which premature defoliation of browned leaves is observed, which greatly weakens the plant, are treated with a copper-containing preparation in early spring.
  • When buds appear, the bushes are treated with “Aktelik”, “Aktar” or “Fitoverm”. This measure will significantly reduce the number of currant gall midges, bud mites, sawflies and other pests.
  • At the end of flowering, berry bushes are treated with a 0.5% urea solution to prevent fungal diseases. And aphids, mites, shoot gall midges and other harmful insects are fought with the help of biological products and tobacco infusion.

Raspberry processing

The most common pest of raspberries is the raspberry beetle, which overwinters in the soil and crawls out by mid-May. If you do not process raspberries in the spring, the multiplying beetle larvae will turn the berries into worms. Spider mites and raspberry mites can significantly reduce raspberry yield.

  • In order to combat pests in the spring, you need to carefully remove all dry leaves under the raspberry bushes and loosen the soil. You should also cut out broken and weak shoots and shorten the tops by 10 - 15 cm.

  • As soon as the buds on the shoots begin to swell, the bush is treated with a solution of karbofos, prepared according to the attached instructions. You can use Actelik or another biological product. Raspberry beetles are also collected manually, shaking them onto a film bedding. Bushes affected by anthracosis and spotting are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture.
  • When the buds appear, you can spray the raspberries with tansy infusion. To prepare the infusion, take 500 g of dry plants and add half a bucket of water. After 2 days, the infusion is boiled for half an hour and then filtered. Then dilute with the same amount of cold water and spray the plantings generously, not forgetting to treat the soil.

Processing strawberry beds

  • The beds with strawberries should be cleared of last year's leaves and weeds, then loosened well. To avoid the appearance of gray rot, the plantings must be well ventilated, so in the spring they need to be thinned, removing weak bushes that have not overwintered well. If these agrotechnical measures are not carried out, then due to gray rot you can lose up to 30% of the crop, especially in wet summers.

  • Experienced gardeners recommend spilling strawberries with water heated to approximately 65oC, adding a few crystals of potassium permanganate to it. The solution should be pale pink. Water should be poured in a mug into the center of the outlet. This treatment significantly reduces the number of spider mites and weevils. Spraying the bushes with Bordeaux mixture helps to cope with rot, leaf spot, and powdery mildew.
  • In April, when young foliage appears, strawberries are treated with “Actofit” or “Fitoverm” to destroy spider mites. And when flower buds begin to form, they fight weevils, leaf rollers and sawflies using Antitlin, tobacco decoction or dandelion infusion.

Spring protection of ornamental plants

  • Perennial ornamental shrubs that decorate the garden also need protection from pests and diseases, like other garden crops. Therefore, the list of spring work in the garden regarding ornamental plants must include the removal of winter shelters, cleaning the soil of old foliage, sanitary and formative pruning, and treatment with chemical or biological agents.
  • Until the buds bloom, plants affected by scab, spotting, rot or black cancer are treated with Bordeaux mixture, chorus or another preparation containing copper. Against wintering pests, shrubs can be sprayed with preparation No. 30, foundationazole or karbofos.
  • To save flower bulbs from root rot and other diseases, they are soaked in a solution of foundationazole or phytosporin.

Spring disinfection of greenhouses

  • Greenhouses also need to be disinfected, having first cleared them of last year’s plant residues: tops, spoiled fruits and weeds. It is better to burn the garter material used last season, since pathogenic organisms can overwinter in pieces of twine and ropes, on stakes and slats.
  • The next step is to wash the inside surface of the greenhouses with soapy water using a brush and then rinse with a hose with clean water. Wooden posts, crossbars and shelves should be treated with a bleach solution.

  • A few days before planting seedlings, you need to fumigate the greenhouses with sulfur bombs. Such disinfection is carried out with closed transoms and doors. The checkers are placed on metal stands and set on fire. The number of sulfur bombs is calculated according to the manufacturer’s instructions, depending on the volume of the greenhouse. 4 days after sulfur fumigation, the greenhouses are well ventilated.
  • As a result of spring disinfection of greenhouses, the likelihood of fungal diseases and damage to crops by harmful insects is significantly reduced.