Homemade and fixtures
for the builder
glass carrying
Bringing a large glass or mirror home is not an easy task. A piece of string criss-crossed over the glass and a pair of gloves will make this operation simple and safe.
Carrying large sheets of plywood or glass
For carrying large sheets of plywood, glass or thin iron at home, it is convenient to use a wire holder with three hooks.
Device for carrying bricks and other building materials
How many bricks can you bring in your hands! Pieces three or four, you say. Indeed, it is more inconvenient to take more, because then they no longer have to be folded, but “dumped”, which, firstly, spoils them, and secondly, requires additional time for laying.
A noticeable increase in labor productivity in this type of work will allow the use of the device shown in the figure. This is a longitudinal bar and two clamping plates-paws, one of which is hinged on the bar, and the second is fixed with a screw. A carrying handle is welded to the first plate. The maximum distance between the plates is 555 mm, which allows you to capture up to eight standard bricks.
Thus, one person in both hands will be able to move 16 bricks at once. Moreover, it is enough to put this “brick transport” on the ground, as the load is released from the clamping paws and turns out to be exactly laid in the right place. By the way, this device can carry other items - concrete blocks, plates, etc.
Device for measuring the inner diameter of pipes
Among the tools and fixtures for measuring the inner diameter of pipes and other cylindrical bodies, this is perhaps the simplest.
From plywood, plastic or metal, cut an isosceles triangle with a handle hole. On its sides, at the same distance from the top, apply risks, putting down a number next to each corresponding to the distance between the sides of the triangle at a given point.
It is enough to push the fixture with its tip into the pipe to be measured until it stops - and the number at this point will show the inner diameter.
Pipe diameter measurement
To quickly determine the inner diameter of pipes, it is useful to acquire a measuring template. cut out sheet metal or plastic square with a handle. Measure the distance between the two sides of the corner and mark the values on the square.
Measurements in inaccessible places
To determine the dimensions of the cavity inside the part, it is enough to have a vernier caliper and a caliper with metal pegs glued to its legs cylindrical shape. Insert the legs of the caliper into the cavity, spread them to the limit so that the ends of the legs touch the walls of the cavity, and fix the position of the pins relative to each other with a micrometer or caliper. Then remove the caliper, set the pegs back to the fixed position and measure the distance between the ends of the legs.
Measurements of hard-to-reach objects
With a centimeter attached to a wooden plank, it is convenient to measure hard-to-reach objects, for example, the depth of a pit (without going down to its bottom), the height of a wall (without using a ladder) and others.
Measurements without a ruler
Keep in mind that the length matchbox- 5 centimeters, you can quite successfully measure the length of a wire or wire without a ruler.
Square hacksaw
After a small addition, a hacksaw for wood can also serve as a square for marking. Two bars are riveted to the canvas at the very handle so that the handle, supplemented with bars, makes an angle of 90 degrees with the back of the canvas.
Saw-ruler
A saw with centimeter divisions printed on the blade is convenient for work. Notches can be made with a chisel or triangular file.
Shovel marking
If you apply markings in the form of colored rings 10 centimeters long on the shovel handle, then it will be very convenient to take measurements with such a shovel when planting trees and other work in the garden.
Marking square
A carpenter's square can serve as an excellent marking tool. To do this, it is enough to put divisions on it and drill small holes against them with an interval of 5 millimeters.
Straight horizontal line
A simple device will help to draw an even horizontal line on the wall (see figure). A wheel resting on the ceiling sets the distance, a plumb bob ensures that the line is horizontal.
How to check the accuracy of the building level
To check the accuracy and, if necessary, adjust building level, you do not need to have a perfect horizontal surface. Put it on flat surface and mark the position of the air bubble. Then rotate the tool 180° around the vertical axis. If the level is accurate, the bubble will deviate to the higher side by exactly the same amount.
Horizontal foundation level
During the construction of the foundation, the horizontal level of the level can be maintained with the help of a plumb line and a right-angled triangle with sides of sufficient length. At the corner of the formwork, one leg rail is fixed along the plumb line, and a cord is pulled along the second leg rail. It will show the horizontal line of the foundation.
In everyday life, quite often it is necessary to determine the horizontality of a surface. This is usually done with a spirit level. However, when it is not at hand, in a few minutes you can make a device that has served our distant ancestors properly. It consists of two mutually perpendicular planks. A straight line is drawn in the middle of the vertical bar from top to bottom. Above, at the beginning of this line, a nail is driven in, on which a plumb line is fixed. When making such a plumb line, it should be noted that the longer the horizontal bar, the more accurately your device will work.
Homemade plumb line
A plumb line was urgently needed, but, as always, he was not at home. You can, of course, get out of the situation with the help of a nut suspended on a thread. But if you need to more accurately determine the desired point, take a narrow empty test tube from under the medicines, fill it with fine salt (sand or water). Then pierce the center of the cork and pass the thread through the puncture, tying a knot from below under the cork. Plug the test tube with a stopper and you will get an excellent plumb line.
Plumb in the wind
Plumb - useful thing. If you need to put up a fence, dig in a pole, draw a straight vertical line, you can’t do without a plumb line. But working with a plumb line in the wind is inconvenient: the plumb line sways. How to calm the plumb line? To do this, you need to lower the weight into a jar of water, and then no wind will interfere with you.
Safety stretcher
Door brackets installed on the handles of a wheelbarrow or stretcher will reliably protect the hands of the worker from damage.
Trowel improvement
If you weld a strip of metal to the trowel, you get a "soviet" trowel, in the good sense of the word. They can scoop up more mortar; when cleaning the seams of the masonry, it will not be lost. The strength of the connection between the handle and the blade will increase significantly.
Cement sieve
If there was no frequent sieve at hand, it does not matter. Take a wide tin can and cut out the bottom of it. Pull the nylon stocking on one side and fasten it around the circumference of the can with wire or a tight elastic band. The sieve is ready, you can filter or sift cement, chalk, paint - whatever you need.
Mortar Fork
Cooking cement mortar, it is much more convenient to mix it not with a shovel, as is usually done, but with a four-pronged garden pitchfork or a hoe. The work is much easier and faster, and most importantly - the mixture is more homogeneous.
Clamp of two clamps
Do not rack your brains over the question of how to securely clamp the newly glued part of the "uncomfortable" shape. Two clamps, located as shown in the figure, perfectly solve this seemingly insoluble problem.
Clamp improvement
Such a simple operation greatly expands the capabilities of the clamp. And in case you need to return the clamp to its original state, you only need to unscrew the nuts, remove the bolts from the sockets, move the halves of the clamp and, inserting the bolts into the holes of the iron strip and the corresponding holes in the clamp, screw the nuts again.
Chisel handle
IN skillful hands a piece of rubber hose easily turns into a chisel handle. Wooden plugs securely hold the tool in the hose, and the handle itself not only facilitates the work, but also insures against the possibility of hitting your hand with a hammer that has fallen off the chisel head.
Attachment to uneven surfaces
It is not so easy to nail a beam to an uneven surface, for example, to the wall of a log house so that the surfaces of the beam and logs touch tightly, without gaps. The work will be facilitated if you use the simplest copier. Sharpen the end of the ruler and drill a few holes in it. Having applied wooden beam to the surface with which it must be mated, it is possible to make markings and accurately process the timber.
Being increasingly popular in the construction of walls, the advantages of speed and ease of masonry with this choice are not the least important. After all, relatively small specific gravity aerated concrete allows the production of blocks in significantly large sizes than ordinary brick.
With the weight of an ordinary aerated concrete block from 30 kg it is quite capable of lifting and moving any healthy man. More information about the weight of blocks can be found in. But when you have to drag more than a dozen of these blocks during a working day, then even the most zealous worker's back will quickly ask for rest.
With the help of a special grip, blocks can be not only to transfer, but also to arrange for laying in the workplace, and in the production of masonry - raise up the ranks(as far as the length of the levers will allow).
Clamps for aerated concrete are of two types:
- transverse - for holding and rearranging the block by one person with two hands at once, and when carrying, it is possible with one;
- longitudinal - for crimping and carrying the material together - designs of larger sizes, serve to carry several blocks or aerated concrete of large dimensions at once.
Before choosing a tool, be sure to decide on.
Work principles
The action of the tool is as follows: a pair of symmetrical levers is connected according to the principle of scissors through bolt fastening, their upper ends, when approached, transfer force to the lower ends of the levers, wrapping around the edges of the block from two sides. Under the influence of gravity (the own weight of the block), the compression of aerated concrete increases, and the strength of the grip allows you to transfer the bricks, as if in tongs, as well as rearrange and even raise them to a height.
With longer levers, or when connecting two parallel identical “pliers-scissors” with a transverse handle, two people can move several blocks at once. The length of the acting (upper) and working (lower) levers varies depending on the purpose of the tool.
IN individual construction mainly standard rectangular blocks are used, and accordingly, rectangular designs of grippers are in the main demand. 
Buy or make your own?
Available for sale grips industrial production coated with a special anti-corrosion coating. These are transverse structures of three types: for blocks with dimensions of 250x300 mm, 350x400 mm and 450x500 mm. The longitudinal structure is produced only for gripping 600x650 mm.
The cost of such devices - from 1500 rubles. But they can not always be found on sale, and construction is often running out of time. Or other tool sizes are needed. Well, it's no secret that during construction every ruble that is constantly invested in the purchase of materials counts, and you can make a simple design of the device yourself.
For this, all you need is: an ordinary metal strip, several pairs of screw nuts and a desire. And there are always skillful hands and tools at the construction site.
How to make your own
If you have decided to handmade production of this building device, check what you have available and what you have to buy (based on a brick 400 mm long):
- steel plate (width from 30 to 50 mm, thickness 3 mm and length 400 mm) - 2 pcs.; plus the same plate for manual grip (345 mm long);
- bolts 5x16 - 7 pcs.;
- nuts and locknuts - 7 pairs.
You will also need a drill, drills (No. 6, No. 8), a hacksaw or grinder and wrenches.
Everything is? Then we start:
- On the plates at a distance of 167 mm from the edge, we saw through the transverse slots in order to bend future levers in this place. We weld the slots after assembly.
- Long side, 33 mm from slots drill holes on the levers with a diameter of 6 mm- there will be a central axis of their rotation.
- In the drilled place, the levers are connected with a bolt. We do not tighten the nut to the stop, and with a lock nut - stop the thread! This is for free rotation and to avoid untwisting. We connect the rest of the fasteners in the same way.
- Now it's the turn to make a grip for the hands, also from the plate. To mark the holes, we apply the plate to the upper divorced ends of the levers. In the places of the crosshairs on the future handle, we outline the locations of the holes for the bolts (diameter 6 mm).
- In the upper ends of the levers with a drill No. 8, we make several holes in a row to get longitudinal slots measuring (16x8) mm. They are necessary for the freedom of sliding of the connecting bolts and changing the size of the grip when crimping / releasing the block.
- To each lower end of the levers, we weld perpendicularly along the corner No. 40- this will be the "pincers" of capture. Their length is taken in accordance with the width of the aerated concrete brick (from 100 to 150 mm). For a more accurate fit, the corners must be alternately attached to the edges of the block (on the sides of the future clamp), attach the lower ends of the “scissors” to them and immediately weld in place.
For the convenience of using the tool, it is advisable to put a piece of thick hose, rubber tube on the handle or wrap the handle with linoleum.
Now, when lowering the fixture onto aerated concrete, the corners wrap around it from both sides. When lifting by the handle, under the action of the weight of the block, the crimping is greatly enhanced, as in tongs. And if you can do without this device, then the higher you need to raise the gas silicate, the more you will feel the lack of grip at the construction site.
In order to avoid the formation of chips on the surface of aerated concrete, as well as to enhance adhesion, it is advisable to stick rubber strips on the working planes of the corners.
There are other modifications invented by craftsmen, but the principle of the tool remains the same. We examined one of the most common and affordable options for manufacturing.
And yet you can do without this device, only the work will be harder. What can not be said about the need for another.
Useful video
To help craftsmen, I offer an understandable form for the manufacture of this device. Try.
For the transportation of bricks and other building materials, flatbed trucks or dump trucks are most often used. The most common model is considered to be an onboard gazelle with a carrying capacity of 1.5 tons, 70% of all such work falls on its share.
Basic information when loading and transporting bricks:
1. 5 tonic is able to take on board up to 1250 bricks.
2. ZIL takes about 800 bricks.
3. When transporting bricks in a gazelle, the optimal number is 400 units.
4. Four loaders are used to load and unload from 500 bricks. Such a state allows you to ensure maximum productivity and speed, thereby eliminating the hustle and downtime.
How to avoid injury while transporting building materials:
When loading bricks manually, the optimal amount is considered to be the transfer of 6 bricks in one run. Our experience shows that such a portable amount can reduce the likelihood of a fight by almost half.
The use of work gloves is mandatory, as the brick has a rough surface and easily knocks off the skin on the thumbs.
When loading a large volume of bricks, it can first be doused with water to prevent the appearance of dust, which is harmful to humans.
Workers loading bricks must be dressed in a hard apron, otherwise the foot resting on the body often knocks off the skin.
When loading bricks on a standard pallet, do not load more than 275 units. Only one pallet can be loaded onto the gazelle.
The cost of transporting bricks and other building materials depends on the region, check the exact information with the dispatcher on the "contacts" page.
Equipment for loading and transferring bricks:
An ordinary person in his hands can carry 4-6 units, while there is a possibility of a fight when dropped, additional time is spent on taking a brick and folding it after dropping. With small volumes of transferred material, this is not important, but when it comes to mass work, you cannot do without special devices. Below are the main inventions that facilitate the transfer and loading during the transport of building materials.
Paw for transferring bricks:
This device will significantly increase the speed of work, reduce the time for laying bricks, because. it does not need to be dumped, but can be carefully placed in the required place. And at the same time, the bricks will be laid immediately in a row. You can take up to 8 bricks in one hand at a time. It is clear that this is the limit, but one loader can transfer 8-10 bricks without much difficulty.
The device consists of a longitudinal bar and two clamping plates called paws. One paw is fixed on the bar with a screw, the other is hinged, i.e. she is mobile. The first plate has a handle. The distance between the plates is 560 mm, which allows you to take 7-8 bricks. This device is suitable for transporting other items - small blocks, cinder block, slabs, etc.
When transporting bricks, when the speed of loading transport is important, such a device cuts the cost of loaders by half.
Goat for transporting bricks:
A rather interesting device for carrying bricks is the "goat" device. Its advantage is the ability to place a number of bricks on the board at once, in any required place. In other words, when the bricklayer moves during the laying process, a certain amount of brick is brought to the right place, and left there without additional laying. The invention was made and patented during the Soviet era.
Stretcher for one worker:
It consists of a handle, a support, and a central rod. To the handle, which is made of a pipe, side bases of a rod or thick wire are screwed or welded. The rods located on the side are welded to the base, which will continue to serve as a place for laying bricks. When transporting a brick, the handle is moved to the bricklayer, and then he can use the brought material without any problems.
Wooden stretcher:
The simplest device for the transfer of building materials. Used since time immemorial. Easy to operate. It is elementarily made from improvised means at any construction site. The advantage is the uniform load on two loaders, so they can take 15 - 20 bricks at a time. Loading and unloading is done manually, which increases the time spent on work. Perfect option that does not require financial investments.
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