Despite all its positive qualities, submersible vibration pumps are not the most reliable and often break down at the most different reasons. The cause of a pump malfunction can be problems with a power magnet or winding, a broken draft, a broken valve, an open or short circuit. There are many simple malfunctions, which, it would seem, are not difficult to eliminate. However, after repairing the pump, it can pump very weakly, or even stop pumping altogether. Therefore, it is very important to properly assemble and adjust the pump. In order to understand how to set up and assemble the pump correctly, you need to know well, as well as some important points about it. correct adjustment which we are going to look at today...
In order to correctly diagnose a pump malfunction and subsequently be able to troubleshoot it yourself, you should first study the principle of operation and internal organization unit. This is especially true for those who first encounter such a problem as a breakdown of a vibration pump and have no idea how it can be repaired.
Let us analyze these issues in detail using a visual diagram.
The operation of a submersible pump is based on the conversion of alternating current into mechanical vibrations of the armature and piston, which contribute to the movement of water. The vibration of the piston forces the water out of the hydraulic chamber (the space between the piston and the valve) into the pressure port. The main components of the pump: housing, electromagnet and vibrator.
An electromagnet consists of a core and two coils wound with copper wire. Placed in the pump housing, it is filled with a compound, which serves not only to fix the magnetic system in the housing, but also as an insulating and heat-removing material.
The vibrator consists of: anchor, rod, shock absorber. The rod is pressed into the anchor, the shock absorber is mounted on the rod and is a rubber membrane, the quality of which determines some parameters of the pump.
A rubber diaphragm, fixed with a stop, separates the hydraulic and electric chambers of the pump, and also serves as a support for the rod, which determines its direction. At the top of the rod is a rubber piston.
A rubber valve is located in the pump housing, which closes the water outlets, but in the absence of pressure in the pump ensures its free flow.
Do-it-yourself pump repair is real!
The most common pump malfunctions and how to fix them
1. Buzzes, but does not shake (or shakes very weakly)
To understand the reason, let's turn to the design of the pump (see diagram): on the rod 7 over the shock absorber 12 screw on two nuts 14 . If their fastening weakens, the shock absorber also shifts, the pump starts to work “for nothing”.
To return the pump to normal operation, you need to disassemble it and tighten the nuts to the stop, lock the top one. The sequence of disassembly of the pump can be seen in the diagram above. Difficulties may arise with the clamping screws (M8x40) on the cover if they are rusted and cannot be removed in the usual way. Alternatively, you can cut them off with a grinder, and replace them with hex cap screws during assembly.
Another cause could be valve damage due to excessive wear. Sand entering the pump speeds up this process, so the integrity of the rubber parts is worth checking. In case of severe wear or rupture, the valve must be replaced.
Broken stem is also one of the possible causes, so it is worth checking its integrity. It is almost impossible to replace the stem if it is damaged or deformed.
2. When the pump is turned on, it knocks out plugs, the cable is charred
The cause of this phenomenon may be a burnt armature winding, or a cable malfunction. In the first case, the repair is impractical: the process of rewinding the armature requires certain knowledge, and the time and effort costs are not worth the result, since there is a high probability of re-closing. It is theoretically possible to make a winding for 36V by rewinding the coils in compliance with all parameters: thickness and brand of wire; the number of turns calculated for a given voltage so that the power remains the same, etc. But it's easier to just replace the winding with a new one.
We check the cable with a tester. Replacing the cable in the event of a malfunction is possible in some cases, since in the “Kid”, for example, the wire in the case is filled with compound, only if necessary, increase the length by twisting it.
3. Strong vibration and overheating of the pump
Even a short operation of the pump without water causes overheating, which can lead to the burning of the pump. Due to overheating, the case expands, the compound filling surrounding the magnet peels off from its surface, and vibration occurs. Working without water for longer periods of time will cause the magnet to detach completely. The gap between the magnet and the piston disappears, the movement of the piston becomes impossible.
You can bring the pump to its normal state and reduce the possibility of such a phenomenon in the future using the method described below (the method is rather complicated and not entirely accurate when using some materials and tools).
The pump should be disassembled by separating the electrical part. By tapping on the case, we determine that the magnet is not fixed inside. We release it from the body, after which we cut grooves on it with a grinder almost 2 mm deep, in the longitudinal and transverse directions. On inside case, such grooves can be cut in a chaotic manner. After that, cover the body with sealant or glue and press the magnet inside. When the sealant hardens, you can assemble the pump.
However, there are models of pumps with suction holes located on top (Rucheyek, manufactured by Livgidromash OJSC, and Malysh M from the Elektrodvigatel plant). This design allows not only to exclude the intake of impurities from the bottom of the well, but also to improve the cooling of the pump, which makes it possible safe work pump "dry" up to 7 hours. Supplying the pump with a thermal relay (model "Kid K") increases its cost, but ensures that it is turned off in case of voltage drops or overheating.
4. Low pressure, the pump does not pump well
This happens when the gap in the vibrator is insufficient.
If the valves are in order, the nuts on the stem have not loosened and there is no break in the thrust, you can correct the situation by adding washers 11 (1mm each) per vibrator 2 . By increasing the gap in this way, it is possible to increase the pressure and increase the stroke of the pump. It is worth remembering that during this procedure, you need to adjust and check the pump, that is, determine the number of washers empirically until the desired result is achieved.
IN this material we have considered the most common breakdowns in which you can repair the pump on your own. By the way, about how to repair yourself pumping station, we told.
Important points when assembling and setting up the pump
The repair is done, the pump is to be assembled, adjusted and tested. These actions require special attention and accuracy.
So, when assembling, you should first pay attention to the gap between the piston and the magnetic system of the pump, it should be about 4-5 mm. Then we check the integrity of the valve, blow it from the side of the water inlet - the valve must let air through. The piston must also be tested for integrity, elasticity and the absence of deformations. The next step is to determine the gap between the body and the valve adjacent to the suction holes. The optimal value is 0.6-0.8 mm, the gap is needed for the free flow of water in the absence of pressure in the pump. When assembling the case, we match the symmetrical parts, aligning the hole for the water flow in the rubber gasket with the hole in the upper part of the case.
Reliable sewerage in a private house provides maximum comfort for all residents. However, in some cases, it is able to fail, clogged with large particles or failing to process storm drains. In this case, drainage pumps are used, in connection with this they must be kept in good order and be ready.
Drainage self-priming equipment
Intensive work hydraulic devices can cause them to break. Users have to quickly repair clogged channels of devices, change a burned-out engine or repair float switch water level by hand. It is not always possible to do these operations correctly in a short time, therefore, about quality repair you have to worry about it beforehand.
Design features of drainage pumps
drainage water pump for pumping water, it uses its main element - an impeller, to pressurize the system. In addition to it, the following elements are present in the design:
- pumping unit;
- an electric motor powered by a 220 V household network;
- suction unit with filter element;
- float switch.
Design
Since the operating conditions imply the presence of fluid in contact with the body, the outer part is a tightly fitted part of the composite body. This ensures high-quality sealing, and the material for the body is:
- stainless steel with a sufficient content of alloying chromium;
- moisture resistant plastic.
During operation, it is necessary to protect the housing from mechanical damage so as not to depressurize the installation.
It is necessary to follow the manufacturer's operating recommendations so that the float pump for pumping water works with a liquid in which contaminant particles of an acceptable fraction are present. The threshold geometric value is indicated in the instrument's passport. Usually the allowed interval is 3-50 mm in diameter.
Industrial units can also work with large fractions. Improper operation of the pumps can lead to the fact that the electric motor hums, but does not start to return, or to other breakdowns.
Troubleshooting
In most cases, you can figure it out on your own. This will require a set of keys, screwdrivers, pliers, a multimeter and possibly a soldering iron. In some cases, you will have to use the repair kit provided by the manufacturer.
VIDEO: Drainage pump. disassembly and repair
Mechanical breakdowns
In cases where the electric motor hums but does not rotate, the cause most often lies in a mechanical malfunction.
- It is worth checking the integrity of all the blades. A breakaway particle is able to block the rotation of the head shaft located in the housing.
- Blocking of rotation, from which a characteristic hum occurs, causes a damaged bearing assembly on the shaft. Under the influence of the working, it worsens the coaxiality and leads to the stop of the shaft.
To check these reasons, you need to:
- turn off the power supply;
- remove the pump from the water and install it on a flat surface;
- try to rotate the working impeller by hand, visually checking its integrity.
In case of difficulty, the assembly is subject to replacement or repair, because if the electric motor does not start for pumping out, but buzzes, then it is often not an electrician, but a blocking of rotation.
Low water level
Drainage equipment in most models has a submersible type of design. Due to this, it is possible to effectively pump out the liquid. Operation without liquid inside the working cavities of such pumps leads to an early failure of the units. An important factor protection against operation without water is a special device - a float switch.
This is what the pump looks like long time operating partially immersed in liquid
The part is able to block the operation of the entire pump in time if the liquid level drops below the critical mark for the apparatus. The role of a kind of gyroscope is performed by a metal ball that changes its position depending on the location of the node in the water. It acts on the lever, closing / opening electrical contacts.
Air valve malfunctions
In some models of drains there is a special bleed valve. Accumulated air bubbles are passed through it. In the problematic liquid media that the pump pumps, many contaminants dissolve. They are able to envelop the surface of the ball from the valve and due to this it can fill in its nest.
If the system does not provide a constant air outlet, then your Karcher will buzz, but will not pump water. You can return to working capacity after pumping a certain volume clean water. The system will flush itself and the liquid will remove the contaminating coating from the ball.
Electric motor failure
The pump is able to shut up during operation and not respond to the power supply. In many cases, this is due not so much to the problems of the cable, which can be frayed or bent, but to the interturn circuit:
- In such a situation, a characteristic smell of burnt wire insulation will be heard from the electric motor.
- The second sign will be a significant overheating of the unit, which can be heard by touching the switched off device with your hand.
The reason for such malfunctions is the lack of protection against idle move. Significant overheating of the motor leads to heating of the turns, and those, having melted the insulation, form an electrical circuit between the turns.
Pump cleaning
It is possible to restore working capacity only by replacing the block or rewinding the wire in the damaged area. The second option may be a little cheaper, but if it is of poor quality, it can soon lead to new malfunctions.
Self-repair of the pump
In most cases, do-it-yourself repairs come down to eliminating mechanical damage. The most popular types of repairs are the replacement of the impeller or bearing assemblies.
For complete disassembly of the device, a special set of tools is required. Opening the case is carried out with a complete disconnection from the mains and on a dry apparatus. In most cases, repairs are entrusted to experienced professionals.
VIDEO: Features of equipment repair
Household submersible vibration pumps "Kid", "Neptune", "Brook", "Harvest", "Strumok", "Bosna", "Dzherelce", etc. Do-it-yourself repair
Submersible vibration pumps have many positive qualities. However, they also have a downside: frequent breakdowns and malfunctions. Among them there are such as a valve breakthrough, a broken draft, a short circuit, etc. But even if all these words do not give you an understanding of the essence of the problem, it is not necessary to immediately run to the master who will fix everything. You can try to figure this out on your own.
Submersible vibration pumps have many positive qualities. However, they also have a minus: frequent breakdowns and malfunctions. Among them there are such as a valve breakthrough, a broken draft, a short circuit, etc. But even if all these words do not give you an understanding of the essence of the problem, it is not necessary to immediately run to the master who will fix everything. You can try to figure this out on your own.
Just do not start repairing headlong. Otherwise, when fixing one breakdown, you can make another or completely ruin the pump, so that it will no longer work. And to prevent this from happening, first you need to understand how vibration submersible pumps are arranged and what is the principle of their operation. Let's start with this.
The principle of operation and the device of a submersible pump
Principle of operation submersible pumps consists in converting the variable current strength into mechanical vibrations (vibrations) of the piston and armature. These vibrations help move water into the pressure pipe from the hydraulic chamber, which is located between the piston and the valve.
So, how the pump works, we now know. It remains to figure out how it works and what these or those details serve. We will consider the device of a submersible vibration pump using the example of the brand "Trickle". This will not prevent you from understanding the pumps of other brands, as they are arranged according to the same principle.
Complete assembly diagram of the submersible pump "Brook"
The main parts of the pump:
- frame
- electromagnet
- vibrator
The electromagnet is fixed in the pump housing. The magnetic system itself consists of a core and two coils wound with copper wire. For fixing in the housing, the electromagnet is filled with a compound. By the way, the compound is also an insulating and heat-removing material.
The pump vibrator consists of an anchor, a rod, a shock absorber (rubber membrane). The stem is firmly inserted into the anchor, and the shock absorber is mounted on top of the stem. By the way, some important parameters of the submersible pump depend on the quality of the shock absorber. The hydraulic and electrical chambers of the device are separated by a rubber diaphragm, which is fixed with a stop. She herself serves as a support for the stock, determines its direction. On the top of the rod is a rubber piston.
An important part of the pump is the rubber valve, which is located in the housing. It blocks the holes for the exit of water, and in the absence of pressure in the device ensures its free flow.
Now you already know the device of the pump like the back of your hand, which means it's time to put your knowledge into practice and repair the device with your own hands, without contacting a specialist! And we will help you with the following instructions, in which we will tell you about the most frequent malfunctions causes, as well as ways to eliminate them. (We recommend that you refer to the diagram provided to you above.)
Fault 1: The pump is buzzing, but the water does not pump (or pumps weakly)
Reason 1: The fastening of the nuts located on the rod over the shock absorber has loosened.
Troubleshooting method: Dismantle the pump, tighten the nuts until they stop. Lock the top nut (fix) so that the fastening of the nuts does not weaken in the future. When disassembling the pump, you may encounter such a problem as rusty coupling screws (M8x40). In this case, it will be impossible to remove them. However, this does not mean that repairs are impossible. You can use a grinder and just carefully cut them off, and after fixing the malfunction, replace them with hex head cap screws.
Reason 2: Wear, valve rupture
Remedy: Replace valve.
Reason 3: stem break
In this case, check what happened to the stem. If it is deformed or broken, it cannot be replaced.
Fault 2: When connected to the power supply, plugs are knocked out, the cable is charred
Reason 1: Burnt armature winding
Remedy: Replace the winding with a new one.
Reason 2: Cable failure
Remedy: Check the cable with a tester. If it is defective, replace it with a new one. However, it is not possible to replace the cable in all models of submersible pumps, since some models, for example "Kid", provide for filling the wire in the housing with a compound. If you are faced with just such a model, the cable can only be extended by twisting.
Fault 3: Too much vibration, pump overheating
Cause: Work without water, resulting in delamination of the magnetic part of the pump.
Remedy: The breakdown is quite serious and requires a lot of time and effort to fix it. Disassemble the pump. Separate the electrical part. To check if the magnet is stuck or peeled off, tap on the case. If in front of you this problem, separate the magnet from the body and cut grooves (2 mm) along and across with a grinder. Also make grooves on the inside of the case. Next, cover the inside of the case with glue, sealant and insert a magnet inside. When everything is dry, proceed to collect the pump.
Fault 4: Low pressure, the pump pumps weakly
Cause: Insufficient clearance in the vibrator (or weak fastening of nuts - see item 1)
Remedy: Add washers to the vibrator (11 - in the diagram). Determine the number of washers to add empirically, up to the required water pressure.
Well, you have learned about all the main features of submersible breakdowns. vibration pumps. Now you can repair pumps of the brands "Malysh", "Neptune", "Rucheyok", "Harvest", "Strumok", "Bosna", "Dzherelce" and others yourself. Congratulations and good luck with your renovation. long term service to your unit!
Added: Photo and text from reader Ruslan.
"A month ago, "Expert" took it apart. The same garbage ... stem break .... I think they usually break in the place where the piston is installed. At work, I pressed out the broken stem, the turner cut internal thread on the main part of the rod, screwed the workpiece tightly, cut the external thread in the place where the piston sits, welded the transition just in case, carefully trimmed it on the machine! Collected! All things! Works like new! This is all provided that there are no other damages (for example, defects in the rubber piston or diaphragm).
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Sergey
2014-08-14 12:57:28
The Neptune-2 pump often triggers a thermal relay turning off the pump, what should I do? [Answer] [Reply with quote][Cancel reply]
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