Mixer      06/15/2019

Knock down the front wooden door. How to sheathe the door with dermantine with your own hands. Upholstery on the inside of a wooden door

Any material wears out; the difference is only in the intensity of the process. Even metal doors installed at the entrance to the house, under the influence of precipitation, ultraviolet light, gradually lose their attractiveness; and wood - even faster. Upholstery of doors with dermantin with a competent approach allows, simultaneously with decorating the canvas, to increase its sound and thermal insulation properties. Therefore, this method of finishing is often considered as one of the points of the whole complex of measures for warming a home.

Features of the choice of materials

Correctly sheathing the sash is still not enough to achieve the desired effect. You also need to understand what exactly. Leatherette in everyday life is called differently: leatherette, granitol, eco-, amidis- or vinyl leather. Newest technologies make it possible to supply the material to the market in various modifications, differing in texture, shades and a number of properties. Therefore, dermantin gradually became a generalized term. But door upholstery with leather (natural or its synthetic counterparts) is made according to one technology, with only slight variations, depending on what goals the master pursues (only decoration or also insulation), and what the canvas is made of (metal, wood) .

Preparation stage

When choosing a material for upholstery, you need to pay attention to its properties.

Dermantin

  • Elasticity. Quality products should only slightly spring, but not stretch like rubber.
  • Density. Too thin leatherette for upholstery of the front door, given the specifics of its use, intensity, it is not advisable to buy. But for interior it is quite suitable.
  • Appearance. The presence of at least small stains on the painted material, the slightest spots - clear sign low grade goods.
  • Smell. If it is clearly felt, you can not hope that it will soon disappear. Such dermatin, even suitable for all other criteria, is suitable only for exterior finish entrance doors. Definitely not worth using indoors.

What to consider:

  • Upholstery should be purchased with a small margin, about 15% of the calculated value. Firstly, if the measurements are made inaccurately, then you don’t have to puzzle over how to get out of the situation. Secondly, in the process of do-it-yourself upholstery of doors, dermantine strips are often used as decorative elements for the sash. Therefore, a small margin will definitely not be superfluous.
  • When choosing a material, the specifics of its use should be taken into account. For example, vinylis and eco-leather are excellent for exterior finishing of entrance doors, as they are characterized by inertness to low temperatures. But the latter has a porous structure, and therefore it is necessary to take into account such a factor as humidity at the door installation site. If the determining criterion is the strength of the upholstery, then it is better to give preference to amili leather.

insulation

  • Foam rubber. Pros - a large selection of thicknesses, ease of cutting and laying, low cost. Approximate service life is 10 years. But all insulation characteristics are at the level of average values.
  • Batting. This heater will last about 3 times longer. But there are significant disadvantages: it gradually sags, accumulates moisture, toxic components and acrid smoke are released during combustion.
  • Isolon (a kind of PES). One of the modern versions of roll insulating materials. Differs in the increased noise absorption and low thermal conductivity. Upholstery of wooden doors using such a substrate is one of the the best options their insulation.

Additional materials

  • fastener elements. For wooden canvases, upholstery studs with large hats are needed. The range of products is significant, and it is not difficult to match the color and texture of artificial leather. Plus - staples to construction stapler, for a heater. But for the cladding iron door you will need a special (polymer) glue, which is used to fix the heat insulator and dermantin.
  • Decorative cord (or braid). Options are steel strings or self-made upholstery strips.
  • Number plate. If you get off the door to the apartment, then you will definitely need it.

Step-by-step instruction

Preparation

  • Dismantling. It will not work to sheathe the door with dermantine, moreover, with high quality insulation, without removing it from the hinges. It is laid on any base or supports that will ensure its stability. For the convenience of upholstery, it is advisable to lay the sash on 4 stools.
  • Surface cleaning. Depending on the design of the canvas, all fittings, locks, and old trim are removed from it.
  • External inspection of the base. Minor defects do not matter: they will be hidden by dermantin. But if on wooden door revealed signs of rot, fungus, small cracks, then the necessary measures should be taken: treat the wood with preparations, close up small splits with adhesive sealant.

Insulation mount

  • There are different opinions about the advisability of laying it, and most users refer to the specifics of the opening and the side of the canvas. And yet it is desirable to use it, albeit a small thickness. Any roll thermal insulation material it is characterized by elasticity, and therefore it will become an excellent substrate for leatherette or its modification - it will be easier to stretch the canvas, give texture to the entire finish, and the appearance of wrinkles on the upholstery over time is excluded.
  • Fixation is made with glue or staples, depending on the materials of the sash and the heat insulator.

The specificity of laying the insulation is that between it and the edges (along the perimeter of the canvas) there is a gap of about 10 mm.

Roller installation

It is worth doing it or not, the master decides. But if this is a door at the entrance to the house (and the apartment too), it is advisable to fix them. It is only necessary to take into account in which direction the sash swings open. The most common option is outside.

The outer side of the canvas

  • Strips of upholstery material are cut in the amount of 3 pieces. Approximate width - 100 mm. Two - for installation on top and bottom of the web, one - on the side (longer). On the side where the canopies are located, the rollers are attached later.
  • Since they are wrapped up during their formation, the edges of the strips are fixed on the base with the expectation that they look outward with the wrong side.
  • Laying the prepared "bundles" of the heat insulator in these fragments of the upholstery.
  • It remains only to wrap the edges, form a roller and fix its second edge on the sash.
  • The side of the canvas (where the hinges are installed) is insulated differently. Here you need 5 rollers. Three of them are laid along its length so that an opening remains at the locations of the canopies. Everything else is identical, except for the nuance. Where they are installed, small rollers are attached, but not on the door itself, but on the jamb, so as not to interfere with the free movement of the sash.

It remains only to upholster the door with dermantine over the entire area, in a pre-prepared piece or in separate fragments.

The inside of the canvas

The methods for fixing the rollers are the same. Only the places of their fastening change.

  • The sash is only at the bottom, at a distance of 10 - 15 mm from the floor level (or its covering - carpet, carpet, etc.).
  • Block - the specifics of fastening depends on its structural part. From above, the roller should slightly cover the gap between the jamb and the sash (a 5 mm spade is enough). The same applies to castles. But from the side of the canopies, the insulation roller is installed exactly flush with the plane of the canvas, so as not to become an obstacle in the process of opening / closing it.

What to consider:

  • When decorating a door roll material its edges (along the perimeter) are tucked. This will increase the tensile strength of the sheathing at the points of fastening with studs.
  • Since the rollers are installed, it is advisable to wrap the dermantin on them a little, that is, make a slight overlap.
  • Fixation starts from the top. First, 2 extreme hardware, after which the correct laying of the upholstery is controlled. With small distortions, this is easy to eliminate. Next, the canvas is attached on the side (inner).
  • The sheathing ends by pulling the leatherette in the downward and sideways direction. After the removal of air from under it, a rigid fixation is made on the second side and the lower part.

upholstery decoration

The design option, the scheme, the necessary accessories are entirely at the discretion of the master. Numerous examples will easily complement your own imagination.

It remains to add that, in addition to the possibility of restoring the canvas, bring its appearance in line with new finish premises (facade), do-it-yourself upholstery of the door with dermantine gives good savings not only on heating, but also on the work itself. For it, experts charge an average of 1,600 ± 200 rubles, depending on the size. And that's without the cost of materials. The artistic design of the canvas, insulation, installation of rollers and the like are paid at a separate rate. So it makes sense to do it yourself.

Sections of the article:

Door upholstery with dermantine - light and inexpensive way decorating and warming the home, which begins with the entrance to the house or apartment. To perform this work, you will need to know some of the features of the door trim. Namely: the properties and characteristics of leatherette, the lining material used, tools when working with wood or metal, decorative, fasteners and more.

Dermantin: pros and cons

Dermantine (from ancient Greek leather) is a type of artificial leather made from cotton fabric and a layer of nitrocellulose covering the fabric on one or both sides.

Leatherette for upholstery of doors is positioned on the market as a substitute for expensive genuine leather, not inferior to it in terms of individual characteristics. It is also used for furniture upholstery, book pieces, bags, wallets and car interiors.

Dermantine is finishing material which has the following advantages:

  • Not subject to rotting and decomposition, resistant to various microorganisms;
  • Moisture resistant, does not allow moisture to penetrate into the layer of lining material, protecting it from mold and unpleasant odors;
  • Relatively durable material that can last ten years with proper care;
  • Resistant to abrasion and chemical reagents (acids and alkalis);
  • Easy to wash and clean with ordinary detergents: soap and powder;
  • Frost-resistant, able to withstand temperatures up to minus 35 degrees (depending on the type of leatherette).

Despite all the positive properties of dermantin, many are not satisfied with its shortcomings, namely: with the slightest damage (cut or rupture), the leather substitute cannot be repaired and a separate part replaced, thus full door upholstery with dermantin is required. When burned, leatherette releases harmful substances, unsafe for human health and contributes to the rapid spread of fire, as it is combustible and fire hazardous. These disadvantages are not so important, given that dermantin has a lot of useful consumer qualities, some of which are described above.

TO distinctive properties dermantina include the fact that leatherette can be easily and simply cut, it does not crumple, does not wrinkle and does not shrink. In addition, there are enough on the market wide choose material color types from gray to red. So you can choose what will most harmoniously fit into the interior of the apartment.

What characteristics should be considered when buying leatherette? When buying leatherette for upholstery, you should pay attention to how the material stretches, whether it forms cracks when stretched. Also look at such a parameter as wear resistance, it should be at least 30,000, and preferably all 50,000 cycles. The greater the number of cycles, the stronger the fabric is to abrasion.

Leatherette should be resistant to kinks from bending the material and scratches. Also consider the characteristics of leatherette for UV resistance if your door is in direct sunlight. most time.

The surface of the leatherette can be smooth or matte, imitate aged leather, etc. Pay attention to color scheme artificial turf, which color and texture will best harmonize with the design of handles and hinges, a peephole and other fittings.

Regular and decorative upholstery

When choosing material for upholstery in a store, take into account the type of door constriction. There are two types of screed: regular and decorative.

Conventional upholstery includes a simple trim of the door leaf with a smooth sheet of leatherette, which is attached to the base only at the edges. A decorative tape is also attached around the perimeter, fixed to the door every 10 cm.

Decorative or carriage upholstery of doors with dermantine is a kind of decoration performed on a base of wood or MDF - panels nailed to the door leaf. First, the fabric is stretched over the entire door leaf, and then in some places it is fixed with buttons or nails with leather caps. In this case, the pattern on the canvas from the buttons can be diamond-shaped or square, depending on the preferences of the owner of the premises.


Schemes and drawings of decorative upholstery.

Sheathing elements for a wooden door: rollers, lining material, nails

When preparing for a hauling, it is important to know about the basic materials and elements due to which the door sheathing process takes place.

rollers

When upholstering doors with dermantine, rollers are used. A roller is a special element that serves to protect the house from drafts and cold. It forms a tube of lining and leatherette, nailed around the entire perimeter of the entrance to the door leaf or to the door frame.

The method of placement depends on the type of door opening. If it opens into the room, then the roller is placed with reverse side from the entrance to the house. The roller should extend beyond the box by a few millimeters. In this case, the distance between the canvas and the roller should be such that the roller "slows down" the opening of the door and it slams shut with little effort.

With the method of opening the structure outwards, the roller is nailed to the door leaf itself. At the same time, it is fixed first, and then the lining is added.

Upholstery of doors with dermantine is carried out without a roller in only one case: if metal structure installed without special bars that allow you to attach rollers to them.

backing material

Upholstery lining is most often used foam rubber or isolon with the addition of batting. It is not excluded the use of one batting or synthetic winterizer. When using the latter, a more rigid and ribbed structure is obtained.

Foam rubber allows you to achieve softer and smoother surface drops. He possesses the best properties soundproofing than batting and synthetic winterizer, and isolon boasts the most outstanding thermal insulation. Isolon is a new lining material made of polyethylene, more expensive, but also more perfect. He doesn't miss cold air and absorbs noise, being an environmentally friendly material.

Nails

Upholstery of doors with dermantine is carried out using special nails with wide hats. Sheathing nails can be either metal or leather (leatherette). Steel nails come in silver and gold.

Leather nails are made manually, so their cost may be slightly higher than conventional ones. In addition, there are special decorative nails that serve as door decoration.

To betray the door leaf beautiful and modern look It is not at all necessary to spend huge sums to pay for the hauling masters. Do-it-yourself door upholstery with dermantine is easy and simple, you only need proper preparation doors to the hauling and tools with materials.

Preparing the door for reupholstering

How to determine the dimensions of the material required for upholstery of doors with dermantine, given the dimensions of the door leaf?

The leatherette should be equal to the area of ​​the door plus 15 cm on each side. For rollers, one cut 14-15 cm wide and equal to the height of the door and two cuts cut along the width of the door leaf are required. The number of rollers is increased if the door opens outwards (all four sides are upholstered). Foam rubber or isolon is cut out the size of a door leaf, the thickness of the insulation should be no more than 2 cm.

Let's count the number of nails. It depends on the pattern and the distance between the nails. For standard door you may need somewhere around 50-60 pieces without taking into account the pattern.

Tools for work: hammer, stapler, knife, pliers, scissors, nails. For metal doors, upholstery is carried out without nails, on an adhesive basis. Glue will need at least 100 ml.

door technology

We free the door from everything superfluous: from handles, hinges, old upholstery, etc. At the first stage, they will only interfere. The methods of fastening the leatherette to the door leaf differ depending on the material of the door.

Tree

We make rollers: right on the door we fix strips of leatherette face down with a stapler. We lay the tubes of insulation and tuck, closing the foam rubber. We clog with a stapler or nails. At the bottom of the door leaf, the material must be hammered so that the distance between the roller and the floor is 1-2 cm, otherwise the roller will simply rub off at the points of contact with the floor.

We strengthen the lining: we fix the foam rubber with a stapler starting from the middle of the door leaf (so the likelihood that the material will warp will be reduced to zero). We fix the lining so that the distance to the edge of the door is 1-2 cm. We fix the batting on the foam rubber layer (it protects the foam rubber from damage).

We fasten the dermantin: first, we turn it 6-8 cm from above and fix it with nails, making sure that there are no folds and creases. Then, straightening, we stretch on the sides and hammer with nails around the perimeter of the door. Properly stretched material does not wrinkle or form folds. The distance between the nails is a maximum of 10 cm, a minimum of 5 cm.

For a metal door, the process is a little faster and easier, the fastening is done with glue.

Metal

The door is removed and placed on a flat base, for example, on four stools. Lubricate with glue around the perimeter of the canvas and in the center, fix the insulation. Press the foam rubber to the surface and leave to dry a little.

Then the main cut of the leather substitute is glued starting from the top, just like with a wooden structure, moving to the sides and ending at the bottom.

We hope that our article will help you to easily and without errors complete all stages of work.

How do we nail rollers?

The roller is nailed to door frame and serves as a stop for the door leaf.
With proper upholstery, the tightness of the door is taken into account. When closing, the roller should not create significant resistance, but there should not be any free space. Roller upholstery is a complex and time-consuming job that requires a lot of experience. The installation of rollers is carried out only on wooden doors, since the fastening is carried out with special nails that are not hammered into the metal.
The design of metal doors initially assumes the presence of stops, seals and porches, which act as rollers. Installing the roller metal door possible only if it was originally installed on the door. In the process of manufacturing a metal door wooden bars hammered into the frame, for fastening wallpaper nails. In the presence of such a design, upholstery with rollers is possible without additional refinement.

When is it impossible to upholster the front door?

After removing the upholstery, you have to deal with unpleasant surprises. Unfortunately, door manufacturers, in the fight to reduce the final cost of the product, go to all sorts of tricks to save on materials used in the production of doors. Therefore, you should not be surprised if, under the upholstery of the door, it suddenly turns out that the door is not made of a whole sheet of steel, but of strips of metal, between which a gap of a centimeter is left, or hardboard, that is, pressed paper, is used instead of metal.
Of course, such surprises will not please not only the owner of the door, but also the master who came to order, since they greatly complicate his work. Also, the inner sheet can be made of plywood. When using plywood instead of metal, the thickness of the plywood is critical. Using thin sheet plywood, there is simply nowhere to hammer nails. In this case, the master has to resort to pasting the door with leatherette.
Doors equipped with crossbar mechanisms may have non-separable handles for driving the crossbars. In such a situation, upholstery without dismantling and replacing the handles is impossible. Replacing handles increases the cost of the work. And in some cases, the production of work in general becomes impossible.

Door trim is done according to different reasons. Among the main ones are - insulation of wooden or metal input structure, as well as the creation of a new decorative coating. It should be noted that all the work can be done independently, but to get a really high-quality result, you need to make every effort and accuracy. If everything is done correctly, the result will be a coating that will not only protect against the penetration of cold from the outside, but also provide an excellent visual appearance.

READ ALSO:

It all starts with what needs to be decided: how to sheathe the front door. The most acceptable option is the use of dermatin. Many mistakenly believe that this material has a lot of disadvantages. Yes, they exist and lie in the fact that such a product is very difficult to restore, in addition, leatherette contributes to the spread of fire. But the merits this material a lot more:

  1. It is not attacked by microorganisms that can promote the formation of mold and rot.
  2. It has excellent moisture resistance. That is, water does not penetrate into the inner layer, which does not lead to undesirable consequences.
  3. Has good durability. With proper care - the service life is tens of years. Even now you can find options for metal doors that were covered several decades ago. However, they still have not lost their appearance.
  4. Not damaged when used household chemicals, washes well.
  5. Withstands low temperatures. This makes it possible to use the material for finishing from the outside. Naturally, quality options should be preferred.

On a note! Leatherette is a type of artificial leather. Such products are positioned as an excellent substitute for natural options.

To choose a really high-quality product, you should pay attention to a number of parameters. Namely:

  • Wear resistance, which should be at least 30 - 35 thousand cycles.
  • Flexibility. Artificial leather should stretch, and cracks and creases should not form.
  • Imitation natural material should be as plausible as possible.

There are many low-quality fakes on the market that lose their appearance in a very short time.


When choosing leatherette for upholstery, you should take into account many nuances that determine the quality of this material.

Preparatory work

Do-it-yourself sheathing of entrance doors requires a set of preparatory measures. They are as follows:

  • A schematic drawing is being prepared if it is planned to give the structure a more presentable appearance.
  • A list of materials that will be used in the work is compiled:
    • Leatherette. You should select the product in special stores, where there is a large selection of textures and colors. It must be taken into account that this product buy with a margin.
    • Insulation, which is used for additional sound and heat insulation. To do this, you can choose felt, foam rubber or synthetic winterizer. The thickness varies within 1 - 2 cm. It will depend on the pattern being created (tightening). In order to obtain beautiful sealing rollers, it is advisable to give preference to a heater that has a round, elongated shape.
    • Glue and decorative studs needed for fixing. The second option is selected depending on the type of hat that will play the role of a visual element.

It is difficult to imagine: how to sheathe the front door without the right tools. Therefore, the necessary set is being prepared:

  1. A hammer with a small head but a comfortable handle for hammering nails.
  2. Professional or semi-professional stapler. A set of brackets (8-10 mm) is purchased separately for it. This tool allows for preliminary and additional fixation.
  3. A stationery knife or good scissors - for cutting out.
  4. A screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers that will help dismantle and mount handles, as well as other elements.
  5. Pliers to remove old trim or deformed nails.

Before finishing the front door with dermantine, a number of preparatory procedures are performed:

  • The doorway is freed from unnecessary details - handles, locks, peepholes, chains. It is much better to work if the canvas is not removed from the hinges. In the absence of proper experience, all measurements, circumcisions are performed with great care.
  • If it is planned to beat a door that already has decorative coating, then it is removed first.
  • It often happens, especially with iron parts, that they are susceptible to rust. It should be cleaned up.

On a note! It is necessary to thoroughly clean all elements from any damage. wooden elements may have cracks and chips, they are covered with a special putty.

Finishing events

Door trim with dermantin is performed on two sides: internal and external. Technologically, these two processes have some differences. There are also works that are performed when upholstering wooden and metal doors.

Working with wooden structures from the inside

All work begins with the fact that the scheme for opening the door is determined - to the apartment or entrance (to the street in a private house). The correct choice of the size and location of the sealing rollers depends on this.

Often, wooden canvases open inwards. Therefore, this option should be considered.

The technology is:


Installation of dermantin is carried out according to the following scheme:

  • Fixation starts from the top. A small area is tucked under the insulation, decorative carnations make their way along the edge.

    On a note! The initial fastening is very difficult to perform. For this, a stapler is used, the staples of which are clogged in several places.

  • The installation is checked for evenness. Make sure there are no distortions.
  • Further, carnations make their way on the left, and then on the right side. All work is done carefully - by constantly stretching the canvas. Wrinkles must not be allowed.
  • Lastly, the lower part is nailed.

Leatherette fastening

At the end, marks are made for cutting holes for handles and an eyelet.

The door frame is considered complete. But only a direct coating is obtained. To get a picture, markup is performed. Points are marked on the canvas, which are located at regular intervals. Carnations are hammered on them. It is important to consider that the process starts from the center, excluding the strong tension of the leatherette.


Working with wooden structures outside

From the side of the street or entrance, work is carried out as follows:

  1. The door closes. One centimeter recedes from the edge of the canvas.

    On a note! If the door does not have the necessary sound insulation, then a sticker of one or two layers of material should be provided. It is very convenient when the first layer has a self-adhesive side, the second one is attached to the brackets.

  2. An insulating roller is fixed at the bottom. For this, a piece of leatherette is used, in which a piece of foam rubber is wrapped. It should be placed slightly higher than the bottom edge of the canvas. It is necessary to avoid displacement, otherwise, it will cling to the threshold. Many masters believe that this is an extra element, so it is advisable to proceed from a specific situation.
  3. Upholstering the fabric with insulation starts from above, and then descends from both sides. It is important to consider that the material should not sag. If this is allowed, then further actions will turn out to be of poor quality.
  4. On last step perform sheathing of a wooden door with leatherette. It is fixed along the folded edges. If necessary, get a picture - breaks through the entire surface.

On a note! Many masters believe that it is at the final stage that the lower roller is formed. It is formed by bending leatherette lined with chopped foam rubber. That is, the roller turns out to be solid. Be sure to check that it does not cling to the threshold.

The upholstery is considered complete when the bolsters are installed around the perimeter of the box itself.

Work with a metal door - interior decoration

The situation is a little more complicated when it comes to how to sheathe an iron door. The methods of sheathing outside and inside are also different.

Currently, many manufacturers are trying to interior decoration the entrance door was carried out in production. For this, they are used decorative inserts from MDF. But it happens that cheaper options do not have such elements, then it becomes necessary to fit the doors with dermantine with your own hands.

Work is carried out according to a certain scheme:


The video will help you understand the intricacies of the process:

If required, a drawing is created. To make it more beautiful, you can use the remnants of artificial leather. The technology lies in the fact that one edge is nailed to the right place, then the strip is stretched and fixed again in the right area. It turns out a coating that has a more pronounced texture.

Working with a metal door - exterior decoration

If it is necessary to sheathe the entrance metal door from the outside, then a lining of small thickness is used.


The order of work is as follows:

  • The synthetic winterizer or foam rubber is cut in size, which should be eight to ten millimeters smaller than the door leaf. The dermatin is immediately cut off. Its canvas should be equal to the size of the insulation plus 6-7 cm.
  • The insulation is attached with glue, which is evenly applied around the entire perimeter of the iron door. You need to wait a while for the material to adhere well. If this is not done, then further work may be of poor quality. The finished area should have an even surface.
  • Now a layer of dermatin is laid. It is evenly distributed over the entire surface. The edges are folded over the edge of the door leaf panels. The bent section must be fixed, for this, glue is used, which has a quick setting.

If you do everything carefully, then the front door trim will turn out to be very respectable. At the end, you should carefully install everything additional elements(handles, locks).


Some details

Currently, dermatin refers to a whole range of materials. Therefore, if it is necessary to purchase, it should be borne in mind that there are types of coatings that can successfully replace it:

  1. Eco-leather. Product on fabric basis coated with polyurethane. This option is not suitable for rooms with high humidity.
  2. Viniliskin. Its composition is very similar to natural leather. This species has many excellent decorative solutions which are suitable for different situations.
  3. Amidiskin. Perfect solution in order to ennoble the door with your own hands, because the material has good elasticity. Buying cheap varieties should be avoided.

There are many options for how to sheathe the door most effectively. All of them are described in the following article. However, leatherette upholstery, which flaunted on the front door in almost every Soviet house, has not lost its popularity to this day. And all because this is one of the few ways to finish the door leaf, which is easy to do with your own hands. Naturally, the main parameter will be accuracy and strict adherence to all stages.

How to upholster a door

Despite the fact that stores delight consumers with the widest range of entrance and interior doors, the front design of which is carried out according to the most modern technologies, not every owner of an apartment or house is in a hurry to make such a purchase. The high price of many models is not so bad.

The problem is that replacing the box requires at least repairing the slopes, and / or wallpaper on the wall - and this is a completely different expense. Besides, old door It may still be quite strong, and therefore it is a pity to change it. In such a situation, upholstery with leatherette doors is one of the best ways updates, which is quite possible to do it yourself.

Before talking about how to sheathe doors with dermantin, let's bring some clarity to one question. Since dermantin has been used as an upholstery material in our country for almost 90 years. We used to call soft door upholstery that way, without going into too much detail.

However, there are also fundamentally different materials, which in everyday life are still habitually called dermantine.

In fairness, let's clarify what is the difference between them:

Upholstery type Brief information about the material

Leatherette (nitro-leather), how to upholster

This material is a kind of artificial leather. It is based on cotton fabric or knitwear with a nitrocellulose coating, which is why it received its second name: nitroleather. The coating may be applied on one or both sides.

This is the cheapest finishing material, the price of which starts from 200 rubles per meter. Thus, the entire upholstery of the door with leatherette, together with fasteners and insulation, will amount to no more than 1,500 rubles.

Since nitro-leather does not have high aesthetic qualities, and wears out rather quickly, more resistant polymers such as PVC and polyacetate began to be used as a coating for the knitted base.

Viniliskin practically does not have the shortcomings of its predecessor, and outwardly often imitates natural leather. So, the leatherette for door upholstery that you looked at in the store is most often not nitro-leather.

Focus on the price tag: even if it says "dermantin", keep in mind that when the price per meter is 600-800 rubles. and more, then it is vinyl leather.

This option is not artificial leather. It is closer to genuine leather, as it is a composite of leather and latex. This material is made from scraps of leather, crushed into a powder bound by a polymer. For strength, elasticity and appearance, it is very similar to genuine leather.

A beautiful texture or embossing can be made on the surface of the composite leather. Shoes are even made from this material. And upholstery with dermantine of internal doors, as well as wall panels or upholstered furniture, using recycled leather, which will look simply chic.

This photo shows a variety of artificial leather on a non-woven basis.

Eco-leather has the highest characteristics regarding strength, wear resistance, thermal conductivity, and even frost resistance.

So it can be safely used for upholstery of a street door.

Tools and Consumables

Except decorative material, which will go on the upholstery of a wooden door, you will also need a foam pad 10-15 mm thick. It will help to solve two problems at once: to insulate the door and create a beautiful relief on the upholstery.

  • You can, of course, use other leatherette door heaters: batting, felt, synthetic winterizer, but it is foam rubber that allows you to make the upholstery really soft.
  • When sheathing is done on both sides- especially if this is the entrance to an apartment or house, rollers are usually made around the perimeter, which decorate the ends of the canvas, and at the same time prevent cold air from penetrating through the cracks. For this, foam rubber is also used, only round - in the form of a bundle with a diameter of 2-3 cm.
  • From fasteners you will need furniture nails with a wide hat. Imi along the perimeter of the canvas, rollers and upholstery, and decorative nails are attached. They can have a figured metal or plastic cap.

Note! The best way to cover the door with dermantine looks when nails with caps are used. They can be selected in color, or in contrast. And even more convenient is to purchase a ready-made upholstery kit, in which everything that was mentioned above is there. It costs at least 850 rubles. on one side, but it depends on the quality and design of the attached material.


Of the tools, for work you will need a tape measure with a pencil, a hammer, pliers, a chisel, a knife. In the case when fastening along the perimeter is not done with nails, but with staples, a stapler is also needed.

In principle, do-it-yourself door upholstery with dermantine is a simple matter. Not only men, but also housewives can cope with it, since this does not even require removing the canvas from the hinges. Although, it is, of course, more convenient to work on the removed canvas. Next, we will introduce you to the process, and offer as visual aid video in this article.

Important Points

The maximum width of the door leaf is 100 cm, and upholstery materials are at least 140 cm. So, the necessary margin is obtained in width on both sides, and there are still strips from which rollers can be formed. Strips 13-15 cm wide are enough for rollers.

So:

  • According to the height of the door, leatherette is also cut with a margin of 10-15 cm on each side. The amount of overlap depends mainly on the thickness of the insulation, but do not forget that it is better to cut off the excess than not enough.
  • As for the insulation, it is cut exactly to the size of the canvas, and nailed to it with small carnations or planted on glue.
  • Given the fact that the door is decorated with an old one, before starting work, it is necessary to eliminate all malfunctions that prevent it from closing normally; if necessary, strengthen the box; sand and paint the hinges.


On request: “upholstery of the door with leatherette video”, you can find many videos that show not only the process of sheathing, but also talk about how to make repairs and other preparatory work. For example, it is very important to beautifully decorate the end of the door, which does not close with a sheathing, and will spoil the whole picture.

And in general: if you do not stint on the purchase of material with an interesting texture and original fasteners, as well as do everything right, your door will look no worse than in the examples presented above as a sample.

As already mentioned, door trim with dermantin can be performed without removing them from the hinges. But if you want to create a beautiful geometric pattern, it is still better if the canvas is conveniently located in a horizontal position.

Drawings can be used as traditional ones, most of which are presented below, or you can come up with something of your own. Just do not improvise in the course of work - it is unlikely that something good will come of it. It is better to think over well and draw a diagram, and already produce skin according to it.


Before trying on leatherette, all accessories must be dismantled from the canvas: peephole, handles, lock. If there is a closer on the door at the top, you can not touch its body, but carefully bypass it by making a corresponding recess in the sheathing material.

Do-it-yourself sheathing, instructions

Sheathing with roller

To form rollers, either a flat insulation rolled into a tube or a round foam rubber bundle is used. To wrap it, you need strips of upholstery material. As a rule, these are trimmings of the dermantine canvas - it is with them that the work begins.

Strips are applied to the canvas front side, and fixed to one side with simple studs or staples like this. Next, cut off the foam band desired length, and wrap it in a strip, attaching to the canvas and its second end.

Depending on the volume of round foam rubber and the elasticity of the upholstery, rollers with a diameter of 5-6 cm are obtained. However, the procedure for their formation may be different.

If you do this before the main door trim is made with leatherette, the roller fasteners will be hidden under it. What happens as a result, we see in the picture above.

The following example shows a variant in which the bead is formed after the fabric has been sheathed. Then the width of the strip should be such that you can make a hem. In this case, the front fastening is done with decorative nails.

Note that the roller can only be made from the outside of the door - and even then, provided that it opens onto the street or landing. Otherwise, the roller will interfere. On interior doors the need for it completely disappears, because it is not done for beauty, but to eliminate drafts.

Main cladding

Without a roller, everything is much simpler, and it looks neater. First, the insulation is attached. On removed door, glue can also be used to fix the foam rubber. When the door leaf is in a vertical position, it is much more convenient to use a stapler for this purpose.

So:

  • Fasteners are made in such a way that the foam rubber is freely bent along the edges - the size of the indentation is 5-6 cm. It is needed so that the ends of the sheathing material can be filled under the insulation before you begin to fasten it with decorative nails.
  • In general, there are different ways fix the soft lining on door leaf. If it is not removed from the hinges, then it is better to first fill the dermantin under the foam rubber, and fix the middle with a decorative nail.
  • After that, the sheathing material is well stretched, and is fixed first in the corners and in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe castle, and then around the entire perimeter. At the same time, in addition to nails, you can also use moldings matched to them in appearance, imitating a solid mount. This simplifies the work, and gives the skin some originality.

  • This is the simplest version of the skin, which absolutely anyone can do. Complex patterns are performed on the removed canvas, and the procedure largely depends on the pattern. And, by the way, it may not exist at all.
  • When is upholstery done? outer door, many masters begin to fasten leatherette from the loop side. The material is first laid face down and baited along the edge with a stapler, then the insulation is laid, the upholstery is wrapped in the desired position.
  • When one long side is ready, the material is well stretched, and, bending along the edges, the end ones are attached. With this upholstery scheme, the cushion is also formed, but only from the side of the castle. Therefore, a strip of fabric is nailed here in advance, and then, when the main upholstery is already completed, a roller is formed. Its purpose is to hide the edge of the skin, and decorate it beautifully.

When ready-made kits are used, which have decorative nails covered with vinyl leather, which involve making a beautiful pattern, the order of work is somewhat different.

Note! Such nails are not quite common - they are not hammered. They are detachable, and consist of two elements: flat base with a threaded pin, and a decorative cap that wraps around it. Such a fastener design allows you to veneer with leatherette not only a wooden, but also a metal door.

  • To complete the drawing, appropriate markings are applied to the door leaf. For this purpose, it is better to make a pattern from the same leatherette. Holes will be made on it, corresponding in diameter to the size of the nail head. The contours of these holes are also applied to the door.
  • In those places where there should be decorative fasteners, an element with a pin is planted on glue, which is also often present in the kit. Also, in some kits, a special profile is provided, which is glued around the perimeter. In the grooves of which the canvas should be refueled. They cost more, but the upholstery is much more accurate.
  • When the nail pins and profiles are glued, the insulation is spread and cut to size, and upholstery is laid on top of it. The cladding, together with the foam rubber, is placed on the pins of the nails, and then the hats are screwed onto them. Start from the center, and in accordance with the pattern move to the edges.

Lastly, the edges of the upholstery are tucked into the profile. Do this with a round spatula, which is usually used for installation fabric ceilings. Excess material is cut off after it is tucked into a baguette around the entire perimeter - and the skin is ready.

Finally, we note that when do-it-yourself upholstery of doors with dermantine is made - the video watched before starting work will allow you to better navigate and master the technology.

The final part of the installation

The last step is the installation of accessories. In the new upholstery, it is necessary to make cuts of the hole slightly smaller than the size of the holes in the canvas, this is very simple, since they are well felt through the leatherette and the substrate. Replace the handle and lock peephole, loops. Then you can proceed with the installation of the canvas in the opening, put it on the hinges and you can enjoy the work done.

Design options

In order to make the final result look a little more interesting, you can not only sheathe the front door from the inside, but add a few curly elements to its surface. To do this, you can use the remaining furniture nails. Carefully mark the places for their installation on the surface of the dermantine, after you hammer in the nails, you can tuck a decorative lace under them. Leatherette and soft lining will change: the contours will be pressed through and a peculiar pattern will appear on the surface of the door. Usually rhombuses are made in this way, but other schemes can be used.

Schemes of decorative upholstery of the door

The easiest way to work with a wooden door, but with a sufficiently thick and dense layer of the substrate, you can make such a decor on an iron door. To do this, you need to fasten the nails or buttons with a strong thread on the reverse side before sheathing the fabric, connecting the foam rubber and dermantin.

Do-it-yourself door trimming with dermantine is quite simple and interesting, besides, it allows you not only to save on purchase new door, but also gives a unique opportunity to create your own author's version of the finish. When done correctly, it will look no worse than the industrial version.

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