Making speaker systems with your own hands. Making a mini speaker with an amplifier How to make a homemade speaker at home

Do-it-yourself bookshelf acoustics

DIY or Do It Yourself

One day I decided to build myself high-quality acoustics for sound recording. small room, and also for use as near-field monitors when working with sound on a computer (hobby). The main requirement is adequate sound in relation to the source. It’s not so much that “the lows are wobbling” or that “the cymbals are ringing,” but rather an adequate natural sound. So, we collect high-quality “shelf holders”.

Number of lanes

In theory, the ideal system is single-band. But, like everything ideal, such a system does not exist in nature. Yes, there are very high-quality broadband speakers from the same "Visaton", but for some reason all well-known manufacturers make two-way bookshelf systems. And when it comes to floor-standing version, then 3 stripes are not uncommon. There wasn’t much of a question here – the classic two-band version: low-frequency and high-frequency.

Speaker selection

The main requirement for speakers is an optimal price/quality ratio. Those. it shouldn’t be “cheap” for 500 rubles, but also not a mind-blowing “high-end” for $1000. Besides, I was in no hurry. Thought to collect with my own hands“half-timers” arrived quite a long time ago, and I cast the bait in advance to my good friend, “sick” with sound, with whom we have been constantly and fruitfully communicating on this topic for a long time.

The first to appear was the HF - Vifa XT19SD-00/04 ring-rad. These are high-quality 4-ohm tweeters, quite popular among audiophiles. They were planned for one set, but for some reason they didn’t work out and ended up in my set.

LF arrived second. They turned out to be very decent midbass from the Soundstream Exact 5.3 kit. Here you can read a little about them. It so happened that the tweeters burned out during installation, and the lone woofers themselves turned out to be unnecessary. 4-ohm 5.5" midbass mounted in a cast aluminum basket were immediately purchased.

Now that you have the speakers, you can start creating acoustics.

Active / passive?

Each option has its pros and cons. Firstly, you need to take into account the compactness of the speakers themselves and the associated difficulties in layout in limited space. There is no point in installing it outside. Secondly, individual modules like independent components can be combined in the future, and also easier to repair if something happens. And thirdly, active speakers are quite expensive. Because if you make a decent amplifier (and sometimes there is one in each case), then it will turn out to be more expensive than the acoustics themselves. Besides, I already had an amplifier. But in any case, I am in favor of the scheme - passive acoustics + amplifier, it is more universal.

Calculation of housing dimensions

We have decided on the speakers, now we need to understand which housing is optimal for them. Dimensions are calculated based on the sound characteristics of the woofer. There are no recommendations on the manufacturer's website, because... The speaker was intended primarily for car audio. There is no point in keeping special equipment for these purposes unless it is your job. Therefore, a smart guy with a special stand comes to the rescue. As a result of laboratory tests, we obtain a calculated case size of 310 x 210 x 270 mm. During the measurement process, the bass reflex parameters were also calculated.

By the way, many manufacturers publish recommended housing sizes for speakers on their websites. When such information is available, it is logical to use it, but in this case I did not have such data, so I had to do laboratory research.

Housing material

In my opinion, the most optimal material for the body is MDF. It is acoustically neutral and also performs slightly better than chipboard. Plywood is also good, but find quality plywood not easy, and it is more expensive and difficult to process. 22mm MDF sheet was chosen as the source material for the body. In principle, standard 18-20mm is quite enough, but I decided to make a little extra. There is no such thing as too much rigidity.

Housing construction and design

One of the most important stages. Before going for MDF, I advise you to decide on the design so that you can immediately ask the seller to cut the sheet in parts, and at a normal point of sale there are always good machines with accurate and even cuts. It is difficult to obtain such a cut at home.

So, design. The speakers should look at least as good as “industrial” ones, so that there is no feeling of a club of crazy hands. We make not only high-quality, but also beautiful acoustics. In general, there are practically no beautiful, interesting and at the same time structurally simple acoustic systems. Beautiful acoustics are made by the Italian Sonus Faber, stunning in beauty - Magico Mini. But they are all made using precision machines, which, by definition, are not available at home. As an option, you can order the cases from a good “cabinet maker” with hands and CNC. Depending on where and what you order, such work will cost from 10,000 rubles. up to 30,000 rub. along with materials. If the specialist is good, then the speakers will look no worse, or even better, than store-bought ones. In this case, I decided that I would do everything completely myself. Therefore, we look at things realistically and make a design without any bevels, curly cuttings etc. Those. it will be a parallelepiped. The calculated dimensions give a fairly pleasant proportion, and proportion in the design is already half the battle.

What to design in? Although I am related to design by line of work, my knowledge of 3D packages is, to put it mildly, superficial. In this case, the program should be more engineering than rendering. Specialized "Kads" for this purpose are heavy and unnecessary. A solution was found quickly enough - frivolous SketchUp is more than suitable for this purpose. It is so simple and intuitive that I was completely mastered in about an hour. The main thing he can do is quickly create any shapes, set dimensions, use simple textures. I believe that such a program is ideal for “home” purposes. You can easily use it, for example, to design a kitchen or even a small house.

Here is the body design:

Based on the drawing, a diagram of cutting the sheet emerges:

In general, the options are quite good appearance, but purely constructively cause difficulties. As a result, it was decided side walls trim with ash veneer, and cover the remaining 4 walls around the circumference with leather, or rather with high-quality automotive leatherette. The arquebus is beautiful in itself, but the woofer has a structural overlay on the front side of the housing that will not look very nice. Therefore, it was decided to make an additional decorative overlay (ring) for it, which will press it to the body, and at the same time add beauty to the speaker itself. The construction and design have been decided.

Tools

Before moving on to the next stage, I’ll outline what basic tools are needed for the job:

Circular.

Jigsaw.

Sanding machine.

Straight arms.

Without this kit, it is better to order the cases from a good craftsman.

Sawing

So, we cut the budget MDF sheet. I have already written that it is better to saw on special machines - it is inexpensive, but the results are accurate. But because I decided to make the body myself inside and out, then for the purity of the experiment I sawed it myself manual circular saw, and small pieces with a jigsaw with a guide. As expected perfect cut Did not work out. After the cut, pairs of walls (left-right, front-back, etc.) are installed in pairs, adjusted with a grinder and/or electric planer and checked for perpendicularity with a square. And later during assembly they are finally adjusted after gluing. A loss of 2-3 mm is insignificant. But I still recommend sawing right away “at the base”, you will save a lot of time.

Housing assembly

The walls are glued together with PVA and tightened with screws. First we glue the body without the front wall.

Now there is a hole for the terminal block, as well as a chamfer in order to “sink” it. Initially, according to the design, the terminal block was supposed to be placed at the bottom. But during the process, it became clear that mounting the crossover in the center through the hole for the woofer would not be very convenient, so I moved the hole for the terminal block higher, and the place for the crossover lower.

You can close the box.

Now one of the very important stages is cutting out the holes for the speakers on the front panel. I already said it's perfect acoustic system- it's single-lane. Why? Because sound propagates from one source to the listener without a time mismatch due to the (tiny) difference in distance that occurs when using a multi-band system. Therefore, it is best to place the speakers as close to each other as possible. This makes the sound image “dense.” We calculate the holes so that the distance between the edges of the speakers will be approximately 1 cm. The holes are cut with a jigsaw with a circular guide.

After the chamfers are removed, we attach the terminal block and speakers, and then drill holes for future self-tapping screws with a thin drill. Without them, firstly, the MDF itself may “spread open” when screwing in the screws, and secondly, during the final installation the speakers will be more difficult to position evenly. I thought for a very long time about how to position the speakers relative to each other, and came up with the following scheme:

Screw holes on external surfaces must be repaired before final finishing. I used epoxy. In order not to wait for one surface to harden, I sealed each surface with tape and moved on to the next one. When the epoxy had dried, I sanded it with a sander.

The veneer needs to be protected. I coated it with clear yacht varnish.

Now you need to cover the body with leatherette. There are many options for how to do this. I decided to do it as follows. A strip is cut 20 mm larger than the width of the case and slightly longer than the circumference of the case. On each side it is folded by 10 mm, the hem is glued with “special glue 88”. Then, using the same glue, the strip is glued around the circumference to the body. First the bottom (partially), then the back wall, then the top, then the front and the bottom again. On last stage Before gluing, the strip is cut in place and glued end-to-end. I glued all sides at once, i.e. didn't wait for each side to dry. After each side I took a short break (the glue sets quite quickly) and started on the next one.

If you really want to, then the phasic can be somehow refined.

Then holes are cut on the terminal block, “woofer” and “tweeter”. The skin on the terminal block and RF will be recessed downwards, so the diameter of the cutout can be left 5-10 mm smaller. The skin on the woofer will be pressed against the decorative ring, so you need to trim it so that it is not visible.

Final editing

First of all, we mount the crossover. The cross is home-made, based on a good element base. Air-core coils, tweeter film capacitors and MOX resistors are used. I didn’t solder it myself, but ordered it from smart guys.

Now we solder the required pair of wires to the terminal block and fix it on the body. The terminal block and speakers are screwed on with decorative black self-tapping screws with an asterisk head. The cover on the “squeaks” is screwed with similar screws, so it would be logical to use the same ones for the rest. Back wall ready.

The midbass needs to be slipped under the skin, and pressed down on top with a decorative ring. Solder the remaining couple of wires and mount the speaker.

All? All. We screw the acoustic cable to the terminal block and begin testing.

Tests

The system was tested in the following configurations:

1. Receiver Sherwood VR-758R + acoustics.

2. Computer + Unicorn (USB-DAC) + Homemade stereo amplifier + acoustics.

3. Computer + E-mu 0204 (USB-DAC) + Sherwood VR-758R + acoustics.

A little about the configurations themselves. I personally think that on this moment perfect option home music center is: computer + USB DAC + amplifier + acoustics. Digital sound without distortion is captured via USB and sent to a high-quality DAC, from which it is transmitted to a high-quality amplifier and then to the acoustics. In such a chain the amount of distortion is minimal. In addition, you can use completely different soundtracks: 44000/16, 48000/24, 96000/24, etc. Everything is limited by the capabilities of the driver and DAC. Receivers in this regard are a less flexible and obsolete option. The size of modern hard drives allows you to store almost your entire media library on them. And trends towards subscription to Internet content may eliminate this option, although this is not in the near future and is not suitable for everyone.

I will say right away that in all three configurations the acoustics sounded great. To be honest, I didn't even expect it. Here are some subjective aspects.

1. Adequate and natural sound. What is recorded is what is played back. There are no distortions in any direction. Just as I wanted.

2. Greater sensitivity to the source material. All recording flaws, if any, are clearly audible. High-quality mixed tracks are listened to perfectly.

3. Well-readable bass for such sizes. Of course, you can’t fully appreciate organ music on bookshelf speakers (it’s generally difficult to appreciate it on acoustics), but most of the material can be “digested” without problems. It's hard to expect more from such babies.

4. Very good attention to detail. You can hear every instrument. Even with a rich sound image and decent volume, the sound does not turn into a mess (the amplifier plays an important role here).

5. I would like to make it louder;) That is. The acoustics do not scream, but play smoothly. Although this is also not a small merit of the amplifier itself, because As the load increases, a good amplifier maintains linearity.

6. Long listening does not give you a headache. Personally, this often happens to me, but here it plays all day and nothing happens.

7. Concerns about incorrect panorama and strong dependence of the sound on the position of the listener were not confirmed. As far as I know, car acoustics have a specific sound phasing due to the location of the speakers in the cabin. Namely, I read about this set that its midbass is more universal in this regard. Which was actually confirmed. You can sit in the center in front of the speakers, or stand next to them sideways - the sound is excellent. There is a dependence, but it is very small.

As for the configurations themselves, the highest quality sound was achieved with the second configuration.

Firstly, a very high quality Unicorn DAC was used.

Secondly, the “home-made amplifier” is the know-how of one smart Tolyatti “sound specialist”. Here it is in a nice little aluminum case:

In a nutshell, we were able to find a circuit solution in which the amplifier retains its characteristics when the volume changes, i.e. does not distort the sound at any (constructively permissible) volume. Many amplifiers (even very expensive ones) suffer from this. It was amazing to hear how such an amplifier brought many speakers to life, i.e. made them sound the way they should sound. By the way, some industrial amplifiers (in particular, the Xindak, which is quite good in itself), were also rebuilt according to this scheme, and they got a “second wind”.

Have you compared acoustics with something else, you ask? Yes, for example, with ProAC Studio 110 – these are quite high-quality bookshelf acoustics, here’s a little about them. We compared them and realized that they definitely sound no worse. The “Proaks” may have a slightly lesser dependence of the sound on the position of the listener due to the specific placement of the inverter and the “tweeter”; somehow they cleverly calculated all this. As for the rest, it’s absolutely no worse, even I personally liked my homemade products better, but we’ll chalk that up to subjectivity;) I also put on headphones (quite good Koss) and compared them by panorama, highs and lows. Absolutely identical sound. Even at the bottom. In general, complete delight.

Costing by materials

Mid/bass speakers (pair): 3,000 rub.

HF speakers (pair): 3,000 rub.

Crossover (pair): 3,000 rub.

Sintepon: 160 rub.

Terminal (terminal block): 700 rub.

Screws: 80 rub.

MDF sheet, 22mm: RUR 2,750.

Scotch tape: 30 rub.

PVA: 120 rub.

Special glue 88: 120 rub.

Vibration isolation: 200 rub.

Figured ring-onlay: 500 rub.

Cable: 500r.

Total: 14,160 rub.

Some materials were or were received free of charge and accordingly are not taken into account here.

In custody

In any more or less complex device or complete functional system, absolutely everything is important. When it comes to a music system, the final result is influenced by a large number of factors:

Soundtrack quality.

A device for playing a phonogram.

Digital-to-analog converter.

Signal amplifier.

Wires.

Speakers installed in the acoustic system housing.

Correctly designed for speakers and high-quality assembled housings.

Diagram and accessories for the crossover.

This is a basic but not complete list.

It is wrong to think that the main thing is the amplifier, or the main thing is the wires, or the main thing is the speakers. A home music system is like an orchestra. And if in this orchestra some people play poorly and others play brilliantly, then overall the result will be average. Or, as they said in a very precise example: if you mix a barrel of shit with a barrel of jam, you get two barrels of shit.

There is another extreme. Good system costs fabulous money. This means that each component should cost half a million. And phonograms must be exclusively on Super Audio CDs or branded records. Like a closed society of elite audiophiles. This is all bullshit.

I came to the conclusion that building your own is relatively budget system, which is described in one word “Sounds”, is quite possible. And if, due to its specific features, it is better to use real existing solutions as a DAC or amplifier, of which there are a lot now. Then a correctly made (either independently or to order) acoustic system will sound better than a “branded” one purchased for the same money. Nowadays almost all components can be ordered online. Moreover, many manufacturers publish enclosure diagrams for their respective speakers. There are a lot software to calculate housing parameters. There are many specialized forums online, and offline there are people with hands. Of course, it is impossible to be an expert in everything. As in any field, the main thing is to know the general principles.

The article does not claim to be the ultimate truth, but I hope that my thoughts and my experience will be useful to someone else.
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Do sound speakers with your own hands - this is where many people begin their passion for a complex, but very interesting matter - sound reproduction technology. The initial motivation is often economic considerations: prices for branded electroacoustics are not excessively inflated, but outrageously brazen. If sworn audiophiles, who do not skimp on rare radio tubes for amplifiers and flat silver wire for winding sound transformers, complain on forums that the prices for acoustics and speakers are systematically inflated, then the problem is really serious. Would you like speakers for your home for 1 million rubles? pair? If you please, there are more expensive ones. That's why The materials in this article are designed primarily for very beginners: they need to quickly, simply and inexpensively make sure that the creation of their own hands, all of which cost tens of times less money than a “cool” brand, can “sing” no worse or at least comparable. But probably, some of the above will be a revelation for the masters of amateur electroacoustics- if it is honored with reading by them.

Column or speaker?

A sound column (KZ, sound column) is one of the types of acoustic design of electrodynamic loudspeaker heads (SG, speakers), intended for technical and informational sounding of large public spaces. In general, an acoustic system (AS) consists of a primary sound emitter (S) and its acoustic design, which provides the required sound quality. Home speakers for the most part look like speakers, which is why they are called that. Electroacoustic systems (EAS) also include an electrical part: wires, terminals, isolation filters, built-in audio frequency power amplifiers (UMPA, in active speakers), computing devices (in speakers with digital channel filtering), etc. Acoustic design of household speakers They are usually placed in the body, which is why they look like columns more or less elongated upward.

Acoustics and electronics

The acoustics of an ideal speaker are excited over the entire range of audible frequencies of 20-20,000 Hz by one broadband primary source. Electroacoustics is slowly but surely moving towards the ideal, however top scores still show speakers with a division of frequencies into channels (bands) LF (20-300 Hz, low frequencies, bass), MF (300-5000 Hz, mid) and HF (5000-20,000 Hz, high, top) or LF- MF and HF. The first, naturally, are called 3-way, and the second - 2-way. It is best to start getting comfortable with electro-acoustics with 2-way speakers: they allow you to get sound quality up to high Hi-Fi (see below) at home without unnecessary costs and difficulties. The sound signal from the UMZCH or, in active speakers, low-power from the primary source (player, computer sound card, tuner, etc.) is distributed among frequency channels by separation filters; this is called channel defiltering, just like the crossover filters themselves.

The rest of the article focuses primarily on how to make speakers that provide good acoustics. The electronic part of electroacoustics is the subject of a special serious discussion, and more than one. Here you only need to note that, firstly, at first you do not need to take on close to ideal, but complex and expensive digital filtering, but use passive filtering using inductive-capacitive filters. For a 2-way speaker, you only need one plug of low- and high-pass filters (LPF/HPF).

There are special programs for calculating AC staircase separating filters, for example. JBL Speaker Shop. However, at home customization each plug for a specific instance of speakers, firstly, does not hit production costs in mass production. Secondly, replacing the GG in the AC is required only in exceptional cases. This means that you can approach filtering the frequency channels of speakers in an unconventional way:

1. The frequency of the LF-MF and HF section is taken to be no lower than 6 kHz, otherwise you will not get a sufficiently uniform amplitude-frequency response (AFC) of the entire speaker in the midrange region, which is very bad, see below. In addition, with a high crossover frequency, the filter is inexpensive and compact;
2. The prototypes for calculating the filter are links and half-links of type K filters, because their phase-frequency characteristics (PFC) are absolutely linear. Without this condition, the frequency response in the crossover frequency region will be significantly uneven and overtones will appear in the sound;
3. To obtain the initial data for the calculation, you need to measure the impedance (total electrical resistance) of the LF-MF and HF GG at the crossover frequency. The GG indicated in the passport are 4 or 8 Ohms - their active resistance is DC, and the impedance at the crossover frequency will be greater. The impedance is measured quite simply: the GG is connected to an audio frequency generator (AFG), tuned to the crossover frequency, with an output of no weaker than 10 V into a load of 600 Ohms through a resistor of obviously high resistance, for example. 1 kOhm. You can use low-power GZCH and high-fidelity UMZCH. Impedance is determined by the ratio of audio frequency (AF) voltages across the resistor and GG;
4. The impedance of the low-frequency-mid-frequency link (GG, head) is taken as the characteristic resistance ρн of the low-pass filter (LPF), and the impedance of the HF head is taken as ρв of the high-pass filter (HPF). The fact that they are different is a joke; the output impedance of the UMZCH, which “swings” the speaker, is negligible compared to both;
5. On the UMZCH side, low-pass filter and reflective-type high-pass filter units are installed so as not to overload the amplifier and not take power away from the associated speaker channel. On the contrary, the absorbing links are turned to the GG so that the return from the filter does not produce overtones. Thus, the low-pass filter and high-pass filter of the speaker will have at least a link with a half-link;
6. The attenuation of the low-pass filter and high-pass filter at the crossover frequency is taken equal to 3 dB (1.41 times), because The slope of the K-filters is small and uniform. Not 6 dB, as it might seem, because... filters are calculated based on voltage, and the power supplied to the GG depends on the square of it;
7. Adjusting the filter comes down to “muting” a channel that is too loud. The channel volumes are measured at the crossover frequency using a computer microphone, turning off the HF and LF-MF in turn. The degree of “jamming” is determined as the square root of the channel volume ratio;
8. Excessive volume of the channel is removed with a pair of resistors: a damping one of fractions or units of Ohm is connected in series with the GG, and in parallel with both of them - a leveling one of greater resistance, so that the impedance of the GG with the resistors remains unchanged.

Explanations for the method

A technically knowledgeable reader may have a question: does your filter work for a complex load? Yes, and in this case, it’s okay. The phase response of K-filters is linear, as stated, and the Hi-Fi UMZCH is an almost ideal voltage source: its output resistance Rout is units and tens of mOhms. Under such conditions, the “reflection” from the GG reactance will be partially attenuated in the output absorbing section/half-section of the filter, but for the most part will leak back to the UMZCH exit, where it will disappear without a trace. In fact, nothing will pass into the conjugate channel, because... ρ of its filter is many times greater than Rout. There is one danger here: if the impedances of the GG and ρ are different, then power circulation will begin in the filter output – GG circuit, causing the bass to become dull, “flat”, the attacks on the midrange to be drawn out, and the highs to become sharp and whistling. Therefore, the impedance of the GG and ρ must be adjusted precisely, and if the GG is replaced, the channel will have to be adjusted again.

Note: Do not try to filter active speakers with analog active filters on operational amplifiers (op amps). It is impossible to achieve linearity of their phase characteristics in a wide frequency range, which is why, for example, analog active filters have never really taken root in telecommunications technology.

What is hi-fi

Hi-Fi, as you know, is short for High Fidelity - high fidelity (sound reproduction). The concept of Hi-Fi was initially accepted as vague and not subject to standardization, but an informal division into classes gradually developed; The numbers in the list indicate, respectively, the range of reproduced frequencies (operating range), the maximum permissible coefficient of nonlinear distortion (THD) at rated power (see below), the minimum permissible dynamic range relative to the room’s own noise (dynamics, the ratio of maximum to minimum volume), maximum permissible unevenness of the frequency response in the midrange and its collapse (decline) at the edges of the operating range:

• Absolute or full - 20-20,000 Hz, 0.03% (-70 dB), 90 dB (31,600 times), 1 dB (1.12 times), 2 dB (1.25 times).
• High or Heavy - 31.5-18,000 Hz, 0.1% (-60 dB), 75 dB (5600 times), 2 dB, 3 dB (1.41 times).
• Medium or basic – 40-16,000 Hz, 0.3% (–50 dB), 66 dB (2000 times), 3 dB, 6 dB (2 times).
• Initial – 63-12500 Hz, 1% (–40 dB), 60 dB (1000 times), 6 dB, 12 dB (4 times).

It is curious that high, basic and initial Hi-Fi roughly correspond to the highest, first and second classes of household electroacoustics according to the USSR system. The concept of absolute Hi-Fi arose with the advent of condenser, film-panel (isodynamic and electrostatic), jet and plasma sound emitters. The Anglo-Saxons called high-end Hi-Fi “Heavy” because High High Fidelity in English is like butter.

What kind of hi-fi do you need?

Home acoustics for modern apartment or a house with good sound insulation should satisfy the conditions for basic Hi-Fi. A high one there, of course, won’t sound worse, but it will cost a lot more. In a block Khrushchev or Brezhnevka, no matter how you isolate them, only professional experts distinguish between initial and basic Hi-Fi. The reasons for such roughening of the requirements for home acoustics are as follows.

Firstly, the full range of sound frequencies is heard by literally a few people in all of humanity. People gifted with a particularly fine ear for music, such as Mozart, Tchaikovsky, J. Gershwin, hear high Hi-Fi. Experienced professional musicians in a concert hall confidently perceive basic Hi-Fi, but 98% of ordinary listeners in a sound-measuring chamber almost never distinguish between initial and basic Hi-Fi.

Secondly, in the most audible region of the midrange, a person dynamically distinguishes sounds in the range of 140 dB, counting from an audibility threshold of 0 dB, equal to the intensity of the sound flux of 1 pW per square meter. m, see fig. on the right are curves of equal loudness. A sound louder than 140 dB is already pain, and then damage to the hearing organs and contusion. An expanded symphony orchestra at a powerful fortissimo produces sound dynamics of up to 90 dB, and in the halls of the Bolshoi Opera, Milan, Paris, Vienna Opera Houses and the Metropolitan Opera in New York it can “accelerate” to 110 dB; so is the dynamic range of leading jazz bands with symphonic accompaniment. This is the limit of perception, louder than which the sound turns into still tolerable, but already meaningless noise.

Note: rock bands can play louder than 140 dB, which was what Elton John, Freddie Mercury and the Rolling Stones were fond of in their youth. But the dynamics of rock do not exceed 85 dB, because... Rock musicians cannot play the most delicate pianissimo even if they want to - the equipment does not allow it, and there is no rock “in the spirit”. As for pop music of any kind and movie soundtracks, this is not a topic at all - their dynamic range is already compressed during recording to 66, 60 and even 44 dB, so that you can listen to anything.

Thirdly, natural noises in the quietest living room country house on the outskirts of civilization – 20-26 dB. Sanitary standard noise in the library reading room is 32 dB, and the rustling of leaves is fresh wind– 40-45 dB. From this it is clear that 75dB high hi-fi speakers are more than enough for meaningful listening in living conditions; The dynamics of modern mid-level UMZCHs, as a rule, are no worse than 80 dB. In a city apartment, it is almost impossible to distinguish between basic and high Hi-Fi by dynamics.

Note: in a room noisy by more than 26 dB, the frequency range of the selected Hi-Fi can be narrowed to the limit. class, because the masking effect affects the background of indistinct noises, the frequency sensitivity of the ear decreases.

But in order for Hi-Fi to be high-fi, and not “happiness” for “beloved” neighbors and harmful to the owner’s health, it is necessary to ensure the least possible sound distortion, correct reproduction of low frequencies, smooth frequency response in the midrange region, and determine what is necessary for dubbing of this premises electrical power AC. As a rule, there are no problems with HF, because their SOI “go” into the inaudible ultrasonic region; You just need to put a good HF head into the speaker. Here it is enough to note that if you prefer classics and jazz, it is better to take the HF GG with a diffuser with a power of 0.2-0.3 of that of the LF channel, for example. 3GDV-1-8 (2GD-36 in the old way) and the like. If you are “rushed” by hard tops, then the optimal option would be a high-frequency generator with a dome emitter (see below) with a power of 0.3-0.5 of the power of the low-frequency unit; Drumming with brushes is naturally reproduced only by dome tweeters. However, a good dome HF GG is suitable for any music.

Distortions

Sound distortion is possible linear (LI) and nonlinear (NI). Linear distortion is simply a discrepancy between the average volume level and the listening conditions, which is why any UMZCH has a volume control. Expensive 3-way speakers for high Hi-Fi (for example, Soviet AC-30, also known as S-90) often include power attenuators for the midrange and high frequencies in order to more accurately match the frequency response of the speakers to the acoustics of the room.

As for NI, as they say, they are countless and new ones are constantly being discovered. The presence of NI in the sound path is expressed in the fact that the shape of the output signal (which is sound already in the air) is not completely identical to the shape of the original signal from the primary source. Most of all, the purity, “transparency” and “richness” of the sound are spoiled. NI:

1. Harmonic – overtones (harmonics) that are multiples of the fundamental frequency of the reproduced sound. They manifest themselves as excessively rumbling bass, sharp and harsh midrange and treble;
2. Intermodulation (combination) - sums and differences in the frequencies of the components of the spectrum of the original signal. Strong combinational NIs are heard as wheezing, while weak ones that spoil the sound can only be recognized in the laboratory using multi-signal or statistical methods on test phonograms. To the ear, the sound seems clear, but somehow not so;
3. Transient – ​​“jitter” of the output signal shape during sharp increases/declines of the original signal. They manifest themselves with short wheezing and sobbing, but irregularly, with fluctuations in volume;
4. Resonant (overtones) - ringing, rattling, muttering;
5. Frontal (distortion of sound attack) – delaying or, conversely, forcing sudden changes in overall volume. Almost always occur together with transitional ones;
6. Noise - hum, rustle, hiss;
7. Irregular (sporadic) – clicks, crackles;
8. Interference (AI or IFI, so as not to be confused with intermodulation). Characteristic specifically for AS, IFIs do not occur in UMZCH. Very harmful, because are perfectly audible and cannot be eliminated without major alteration of the speakers. See below for more information about FFIs.

Note:“wheezing” and other figurative descriptions of distortion here and below are given from the point of view of Hi-Fi, i.e. as already heard by experienced listeners. And, for example, speech speakers are designed on SOI at a rated power of 6% (in China - 10%) and 1

In addition to interference, AS can produce predominantly NI according to claims. 1, 3, 4 and 5; Clicks and crackles are possible here as a result of poor quality manufacturing. They struggle with transitional and frontal NI in speakers by selecting suitable GGs (see below) and acoustic design for them. Ways to avoid overtones are the rational design of the speaker cabinet and the correct choice of material for it, also see below.

You need to linger on harmonic NIs in the speakers, because they are fundamentally different from those in semiconductor UMZCH and are similar to the harmonic NI of tube ULF (low frequency amplifiers, the old name of UMZCH). A transistor is a quantum device, and its transfer characteristics are not fundamentally expressed by analytical functions. The consequence is that it is impossible to accurately calculate all the harmonics of a transistor UMZCH, and their spectrum extends to the 15th and higher components. Also in the spectrum of transistor UMZCHs there is a large proportion of combinational components.

The only way to cope with all this disgrace is to hide the NI deeper under the amplifier’s own noise, which, in turn, should be many times lower than the natural noise of the room. It must be said that modern circuitry copes with this task quite successfully: according to current concepts, a UMZCH with 1% THD and –66 dB of noise is “no”, and with 0.06% THD and –80 dB of noise it is quite mediocre.

With harmonic NI speakers, the situation is different. Their spectrum, firstly, like that of tube ULFs, is pure - only overtones without a noticeable admixture of combination frequencies. Secondly, the harmonics of the speakers can be traced, just like those of lamps, no higher than the 4th. Such a spectrum of NI does not noticeably spoil the sound even at a SOI of 0.5-1%, which is confirmed by expert estimates, and the reason for the “dirty” and “sluggish” sound of homemade speakers most often lies in the poor frequency response in the midrange. For your information, if a trumpet player has not properly cleaned the instrument before a concert and during playing does not splash out saliva from the embouchure in a timely manner, then the THD of, say, a trombone, can increase to 2-3%. And that’s okay, they play and the audience likes it.

The conclusion from here is very important and favorable: the range of reproduced frequencies and the intrinsic harmonics of a NI speaker are not parameters that are critical for the quality of the sound it creates. Experts can classify the sound of speakers with 1% or even 1.5% harmonic NI as basic, or even high Hi-Fi, if the appropriate conditions are met. conditions for the dynamics and smoothness of the frequency response.

Interference

IFI is the result of the convergence of sound waves from nearby sources in phase or in antiphase. The result is surges, even to the point of pain in the ears, or dips of almost zero volume at certain frequencies. At one time, the first-born of the Soviet Hi-Fi 10MAS-1 (not 1M!) was urgently discontinued after musicians discovered that this speaker did not reproduce the A of the second octave at all (as far as I remember). At the factory, the prototype was “driven” in a sound meter using a three-signal method, antediluvian even then, and the position of an expert with an ear for music was not on the staffing table. One of the paradoxes of developed socialism.

The probability of IFI occurrence increases sharply with increasing frequency and, accordingly, decreasing sound wavelength, because To do this, the distance between the centers of the emitters must be a multiple of half the wavelength of the reproduced frequency. At midrange and high frequency, the latter varies from a few decimeters to millimeters, so there is no way to install two or several midrange and high frequency generators in the speakers - then IFI cannot be avoided, because the distances between the centers of the GG will be of the same order. In general, the golden rule of electroacoustics is one emitter per band, and the brilliant rule is one broadband GG for the entire frequency range.

The LF wavelength is meters, which is much greater not only than the distance between the GGs, but also the size of the speakers. Therefore, manufacturers and experienced amateurs often increase the power of the speakers and improve the bass by pairing or quadruplet (putting in a quadruplet) the LF GG. However, a beginner should not do this: internal interference of reflected waves “walking” with the speaker itself may occur. To the ear, it manifests itself as resonant NI: it booms, hums, rattles, it is not clear why. So follow the precious rules so as not to go through the entire speaker over and over again to no avail.

Note: You cannot place an odd number of identical GGs in the AS under any circumstances - the IFIs are then 100% guaranteed

midrange

Novice amateurs pay little attention to the reproduction of mid frequencies - they say, any speaker will “sing” them - but in vain. The midrange is heard best; it also contains the original (“correct”) harmonics of the basis of everything – the bass. The unevenness of the frequency response of speakers in the midrange can give very strong combinational NIs that spoil the sound, because the spectrum of any phonogram “floats” across the frequency range. Especially if the speakers use efficient and inexpensive speakers with a short diffuser stroke, see below. Subjectively, when listening, experts clearly prefer speakers with a frequency response in the midrange, smoothly varying across the frequency range within 10 dB over one that has 3 dips or “bumps” of 6 dB each. Therefore, when designing and making speakers, you need to carefully check at every step: will the frequency response on the midrange “bump” from this?

Note, speaking of bass: rocker joke. So, a young promising group broke through to the prestigious festival. Half an hour later they had to go out, and they were already backstage, worried, waiting, but the bassist was on a spree somewhere. 10 minutes before the exit - he’s not there, 5 minutes - he’s not there either. They wave at the exit, but still no bass player. What to do? Well, we'll play without bass. Failure to do so means instant career ruin forever. They played without bass, it’s clear how. They wander towards the service exit, spitting and swearing. Lo and behold, there’s a bass player, a tough guy, with two chicks. They come to him - oh, you goat, do you even understand how you cheated us?!! Where have you been?! - Yes, I decided to listen in the hall. - And what did you hear there? - Dudes, without bass it sucks!

LF

Bass in music is like the foundation for a house. And in the same way, the “zero cycle” of electroacoustics is the most difficult, complex and responsible. The audibility of a sound depends on the energy flow of the sound wave, which depends on the square of the frequency. Therefore, the bass is heard the worst, see fig. with curves of equal volume. To “pump” energy into the low frequencies, powerful speakers and UMZCH are needed; In reality, more than half of the amplifier's power is spent on bass. But at high powers, the probability of the occurrence of NI increases, the strongest and, of course, audible components of the spectrum of which from the bass will fall precisely on the best audible midrange.

“Pumping” NPs is further complicated by the fact that the dimensions of the GG and the entire AS are small compared to the wavelengths of the NPs. Any sound source transfers energy to it the better, the larger its size relative to the sound wavelength. The acoustic efficiency of low-frequency speakers is units and fractions of a percent. Therefore, most of the work and hassle in creating a speaker system comes down to making it reproduce bass frequencies better. But let us remind you once again: do not forget to monitor the purity of the midrange as often as possible! Actually, the creation of a low-frequency speaker path comes down to:

• Determination of the required electrical power of the LF GG.
• Selecting a low-frequency GG suitable for the given listening conditions.
• Selecting the optimal acoustic design (casing design) for the selected low-frequency GG.
• Its correct manufacture in a suitable material.

Power

The sound output in dB (characteristic sensitivity) is indicated in the speaker passport. It is measured in a sound-measuring chamber 1 m from the center of the GG with a measuring microphone located strictly along its axis. The GG is placed on a sound-measuring shield (standard acoustic screen, see figure on the right) and electrical power of 1 W is supplied (0.1 W for GG with a power of less than 3 W) at a frequency of 1000 Hz (200 Hz, 5000 Hz). Theoretically, based on these data, the class of the desired Hi-Fi and the parameters of the room/listening area (local acoustics), it is possible to calculate the required electrical power of the generator. But in fact, taking into account local acoustics is so complex and ambiguous that even experts rarely bother with it.

Note: The GG for measurements is shifted from the center of the screen in order to avoid interference of sound waves from the front and rear emitting surfaces. The screen material is usually a cake of 5 layers of unsanded 3-layer pine plywood with casein glue 3 mm thick and 4 spacers between them made of natural felt 2 mm thick. Everything is glued together with casein or PVA.

It is much easier to proceed from the existing conditions to the technical sound of low-noisy rooms, with adjustments for the dynamics and frequency range of Hi-Fi, especially since the results obtained in this case are in better agreement with known empirical data and expert estimates. Then for initial Hi-Fi you need, with a ceiling height of up to 3.5 m, 0.25 W of the nominal (long-term) electrical power of the GG per 1 sq. m of floor area, for basic Hi-Fi – 0.4 W/sq. m, and for high – 1.15 W/sq. m.

The next step is to take into account actual listening conditions. Hundred-watt speakers capable of operating at microwatt levels are monstrously expensive, on the one hand. On the other hand, if a separate room is not allocated for listening, equipped as a sound-measuring chamber, then their “micro-whispers” at the quietest pianissimo will not be heard in any living room (see above about natural noise levels). Therefore, we increase the obtained values ​​by two or three times in order to “tear off” what we are listening to from the background noise. We get for initial Hi-Fi from 0.5 W/sq. m, basic from 0.8 W/sq. m and for high from 2.25 W/sq. m.

Further, since we need hi-fi, and not just speech intelligibility, we need to move from nominal power to peak (musical) power. The “juice” of a sound depends primarily on the dynamics of its volume. THD GG at loudness peaks should not exceed its value for Hi-Fi in a class below the chosen one; for initial Hi-Fi we take 3% THD at the peak. In trade specifications for Hi-Fi speakers, it is the peak power that is indicated as more significant. According to the Soviet-Russian method, peak power is equal to 3.33 long-term; according to the methods of Western companies, “music” is equal to 5-8 denominations, but - stop for now!

Note: Chinese, Taiwanese, Indian and Korean methods are ignored. For basic (!) Hi-Fi, at their peak they accept a telephone SOI of 6%. But the Philippines, Indonesia and Australia measure their speakers correctly.

The fact is that all Western manufacturers of Hi-Fi GG, without exception, shamelessly overestimate the peak power of their products. It would be better if they promoted their SOI and frequency response flatness, they really have something to be proud of. But the average foreigner will not understand such complexities, but if “180W”, “250W”, “320W” is written on the speaker, that’s really cool. In reality, running the speakers “from there” in a sound meter gives their peaks at 3.2-3.7 nominal values. Which is understandable, because... This ratio is justified physiologically, i.e. the structure of our ears. Conclusion - when targeting Western GGs, go to the company website, look for the rated power there and multiply by 3.33.

Note 9, regarding the peak and nominal designations: in Russia, according to the old system, the numbers in front of the letters in the designation of the speaker indicated its rated power, but now they give the peak. But at the same time the root and suffix of the designation were also changed. Therefore, the same speaker can be designated in completely different ways; see examples below. Look for the truth from reference sources or on Yandex. No matter what designation you enter, the results will contain the new one, and the old one in parentheses next to it.

In the end, we get for a room up to 12 square meters. m peak for initial Hi-Fi at 15 W, base at 30 W and high at 55 W. These are the smallest acceptable values; taking the GG two or three times more powerful will be better, unless you listen to symphonic classics and very serious jazz. For them, it is advisable to limit the power to 1.2-1.5 times the minimum, otherwise wheezing is possible at peak volumes.

You can do it even simpler by focusing on proven prototypes. For initial Hi-Fi in a room up to 20 sq. m is suitable GG 10GD-36K (10GDSh-1 in the old way), for a tall one - 100GDSh-47-16. They don’t need filtering, these are broadband GGs. With basic Hi-Fi it is more difficult; a suitable broadband speaker cannot be found for it; you need to make a 2-way speaker. Here, at first, the optimal solution is to repeat the electrical part of the old Soviet S-30B speaker. These speakers have been “singing” regularly and very well for decades in apartments, cafes and just on the street. They are extremely shabby, but they keep the sound.

The S-30B filtering diagram (without overload indication) is shown in Fig. left. Minor modifications have been made to reduce losses in the coils and allow adjustment to various low-frequency generators; if desired, taps from L1 can be made more often, within 1/3 of the total number of turns w, counting from the right end of L1 according to the diagram, the fit will be more accurate. On the right are instructions and formulas for independently calculating and manufacturing filter coils. Precision parts are not required for this filtering; deviations in coil inductance by +/–10% also do not noticeably affect the sound. It is advisable to place the R2 engine on the rear wall to quickly adjust the frequency response to the room. The circuit is not very sensitive to the impedance of the speakers (unlike filtering using K-filters), so instead of the ones indicated, you can use other GGs that are suitable in power and resistance. One condition: the highest reproducible frequency (HRF) of the LF GG at the level of –20 dB must be no lower than 7 kHz, and the lowest reproducible frequency (LRF) of the HF GG at the same level - no higher than 3 kHz. By moving and moving L1 and L2, you can slightly correct the frequency response in the crossover frequency region (5 kHz), without resorting to such complexities as a Zobel filter, which can also increase transient distortion. Capacitors – film with insulation made of PET or fluoroplastic and sprayed plates (MKP) K78 or K73-16; as a last resort - K73-11. Resistors are metal film (MOX). Wires – audio from oxygen-free copper with a cross-section of 2.5 square meters. mm. Installation - soldering only. In Fig. on the right is shown what the original filtering of the S-30B looks like (with an overload indication circuit), and in Fig. Below on the left is a 2-way filtering scheme popular abroad without magnetic coupling between the coils (which is why their polarity is not indicated). On the right there, just in case, is a 3-way filtering of the Soviet S-90 speaker (35AC-212).

About wires

Special audio cables are not a product of mass psychosis and not a marketing gimmick. The effect, discovered by radio amateurs, has now been confirmed by research and recognized by experts: if there is an admixture of oxygen in the copper of the wire, a thin, literally molecule-sized film of oxide is formed on the crystallites of the metal, from which the sound signal can do anything but improve. This effect is not found in silver, which is why sophisticated audio connoisseurs do not skimp on silver wire: traders shamelessly cheat with copper wires, because... It is possible to distinguish oxygen-free copper from ordinary electrical copper only in a specially equipped laboratory.

Speakers

The quality of the primary sound emitter (S) in the bass determines the sound of the speakers approx. by 2/3; in the midrange and highs – almost completely. In amateur speakers, the IZs are almost always electrodynamic GGs (speakers). Isodynamic systems are quite widely used in high-end headphones (for example, TDS-7 and TDS-15, which are readily used by professionals to control sound recordings), but the creation of powerful isodynamic systems encounters technical difficulties that are still insurmountable. As for other primary IZs (see the list at the beginning), they are still far from being “brought to fruition.” This is especially true for prices, reliability, durability and stability of characteristics during operation.

When getting into electroacoustics, you need to know the following about how speakers are structured and work in acoustic systems. The speaker exciter is a thin coil of wire that vibrates in the annular gap of the magnetic system under the influence of audio frequency current. The coil is rigidly connected to the actual sound emitter into space - a diffuser (at LF, MF, sometimes at HF) or a thin, very light and rigid dome diaphragm (at HF, rarely at MF). The efficiency of sound emission strongly depends on the diameter of the IZ; more precisely, from its ratio to the wavelength of the emitted frequency, but at the same time, with an increase in the diameter of the IZ, the probability of the occurrence of nonlinear distortions (ND) of sound due to the elasticity of the IZ material also increases; more precisely, not its infinite rigidity. They combat NI in IR by making radiating surfaces from sound-absorbing (anti-acoustic) materials.

The diameter of the diffuser is larger than the diameter of the coil, and in diffuser GGs it and the coil are attached to the speaker body with separate flexible suspensions. The diffuser configuration is a hollow cone with thin walls, with its apex facing the coil. The coil suspension simultaneously holds the top of the diffuser, i.e. its suspension is double. The generatrix of the cone can be rectilinear, parabolic, exponential and hyperbolic. The steeper the diffuser cone converges to the top, the higher the output and the lower the dynamics of the speaker, but at the same time its frequency range narrows and the directivity of the radiation increases (the radiation pattern narrows). Narrowing the pattern also narrows the stereo effect zone and moves it away from the frontal plane of the speaker pair. The diameter of the diaphragm is equal to the diameter of the coil and there is no separate suspension for it. This sharply reduces the TNI of the GG, because The diffuser suspension is a very noticeable source of sound, and the material for the diaphragm can be very hard. However, the diaphragm is capable of producing sound well only at fairly high frequencies.

The coil and diffuser or diaphragm together with suspensions make up the moving system (MS) of the GG. The PS has a frequency of its own mechanical resonance Fр, at which the mobility of the PS sharply increases, and a quality factor Q. If Q>1, then a speaker without correctly selected and executed acoustic design (see below) at Fр will wheeze at a power less than the rated one, not to mention peak, this is the so-called. locking the GG. Blocking does not apply to distortion, because is a design and manufacturing defect. If 0.7

The efficiency of transferring electrical signal energy to sound waves in the air is determined by the instantaneous acceleration of the diffuser/diaphragm (who is familiar with mathematical analysis - the second derivative of its displacement with respect to time), because air is an easily compressible and very fluid medium. The instantaneous acceleration of the coil pushing/pulling the diffuser/diaphragm must be somewhat greater, otherwise it will not “swing” the IZ. A few, but not by much. Otherwise, the coil will bend and cause the emitter to vibrate, which will lead to the appearance of NI. This is the so-called membrane effect, in which longitudinal elastic waves propagate in the diffuser/diaphragm material. Simply put, the diffuser/diaphragm should “slow down” the coil a little. And here again there is a contradiction - the more the emitter “slows down”, the more powerfully it emits. In practice, the “braking” of the emitter is done in such a way that its NI in the entire range of frequencies and powers falls within the norm for a given Hi-Fi class.

Note, output: Don't try to "squeeze" out of the speakers what they can't do. For example, a speaker on a 10GDSH-1 can be built with an uneven frequency response in the midrange of 2 dB, but in terms of SOI and dynamics it still reaches Hi-Fi no higher than the initial one.

At frequencies up to Fp, the membrane effect never appears; this is the so-called. piston mode of operation of the GG - the diffuser/diaphragm simply moves back and forth. Higher in frequency, the heavy diffuser can no longer keep up with the coil, membrane radiation begins and intensifies. At a certain frequency, the speaker begins to radiate only like a flexible membrane: at the junction with the suspension, its diffuser is already motionless. At 0.7

The membrane effect dramatically improves the efficiency of the GG, because the instantaneous accelerations of vibrating sections of the IZ surface turn out to be very large. This circumstance is widely used by designers of high-frequency and partly mid-range generators, the distortion spectrum of which immediately goes into ultrasound, as well as when designing generators not for Hi-Fi. SOI GG with a membrane effect and the evenness of the frequency response of speakers with them strongly depend on the mode of the membrane. At zero mode, when the entire surface of the IZ trembles as if to its own rhythm, Hi-Fi up to medium inclusive can be achieved at low frequencies, see below.

Note: the frequency at which the GG switches from the “piston to the membrane”, as well as the change in the membrane mode (not growth, it is always an integer) significantly depend on the diameter of the diffuser. The larger it is, the lower in frequency and the stronger the speaker begins to “membrane”.

Woofers

High-quality piston LF GGs (simply “pistons”; in English woofers, barking) are made with a relatively small, thick, heavy and rigid anti-acoustic diffuser on a very soft latex suspension, see position 1 in Fig. Then Fр turns out to be below 40 Hz or even below 30-20 Hz, and Q<0,7. В мембранном режиме поршневые ГГ способны работать до частот 7-8 кГц на нулевой-первой модах.

The periods of LF waves are long, all this time the diffuser in piston mode must move with acceleration, therefore the diffuser stroke is long. Low frequencies without acoustic design are not reproduced, but it is always closed to one degree or another, isolated from free space. Therefore, the diffuser has to work with a large mass of so-called. attached air, the “swing” of which requires significant force (which is why piston GGs are sometimes called compression), as well as for the accelerated movement of a heavy diffuser with a low quality factor. For these reasons, the magnetic system of the piston GG has to be made very powerful.

Despite all the tricks, the recoil of piston engines is small, because It is impossible for a low-frequency diffuser to develop high acceleration at long waves: the elasticity of the air is not enough to absorb the energy given off. It will spread to the sides, and the speaker will go into locking. To increase the efficiency and smoothness of the moving system (to reduce the SOI at high power levels), designers go to great lengths - they use differential magnetic systems, with half-scattering and other exotic ones. SOI is further reduced by filling the magnetic gap with a non-drying rheological fluid. As a result, the best modern “pistons” achieve a dynamic range of 92-95 dB, and the THD at nominal power does not exceed 0.25%, and at peak power – 1%. All this is very good, but the prices - mom, don't worry! $1000 per pair with differential magnets and rheofill for home acoustics selected for impact, resonant frequency and flexibility of the moving system is not the limit.

Note: LF GG with rheological filling of the magnetic gap are suitable only for LF links of 3-way speakers, because completely unable to operate in membrane mode.

Piston GGs have one more serious flaw: without strong acoustic damping, they can be mechanically destroyed. Again, simply: behind the piston speaker there must be some kind of air cushion loosely connected to the free space. Otherwise, the diffuser at the peak will be torn off the suspension and it will fly out along with the coil. Therefore, “pistons” cannot be installed in every acoustic design, see below. In addition, piston GGs do not tolerate forced braking of the PS: the coil burns out immediately. But this is already a rare case; speaker cones are usually not held by hand and matches are not inserted into the magnetic gap.

Note to craftsmen

There is a well-known “folk” way to increase the efficiency of piston engines: an additional ring magnet is firmly attached with the repelling side to the standard magnetic system from the rear, without changing anything in the dynamics. It is repelling, otherwise, when a signal is given, the coil will immediately be torn off from the diffuser. In principle, it is possible to rewind the speaker, but it is very difficult. And never before has a single speaker gotten better from rewinding, or at least remained the same.

But that’s not really what we’re talking about. Enthusiasts of this modification claim that the field of the external magnet concentrates the field of the standard one near the coil, which causes the acceleration of the PS and recoil to increase. This is true, but Hi-Fi GG is a very precisely balanced system. The returns actually increase a little. But at its peak, SOI immediately “jumps” so that sound distortions become clearly audible even to inexperienced listeners. At nominal, the sound may become even cleaner, but without Hi-Fi speakers it’s already high-fi.

Presenters

So in English (managers) they are called SCH GG, because. It is the midrange that accounts for the overwhelming majority of the semantic load of the musical opus. The requirements for the midrange of the GG for Hi-Fi are much softer, so most of them are made of a traditional design with a large diffuser cast from cellulose pulp along with the suspension, pos. 2. Reviews about midrange GG dome and with metal diffusers are contradictory. The tone prevails, they say, the sound is harsh. Classical lovers complain that bowed speakers squeal from “non-paper” speakers. Almost everyone recognizes the sound of the midrange GG with plastic diffusers as dull and at the same time harsh.

The stroke of the MF GG diffuser is made short, because its diameter is comparable to the wavelengths of the midrange and the transfer of energy into the air is not difficult. To increase the attenuation of elastic waves in the diffuser and, accordingly, reduce the NI together with the expansion of the dynamic range, finely chopped silk fibers are added to the mass for casting the Hi-Fi midrange GG diffuser, then the speaker operates in piston mode in almost the entire midrange range. As a result of applying these measures, the dynamics of modern midrange GGs of the average price level turns out to be no worse than 70 dB, and the THD at the nominal value is no higher than 1.5%, which is quite enough for high Hi-Fi in a city apartment.

Note: Silk is added to the cone material of almost all good speakers; it is a universal way to reduce the SOI.

Tweets

In our opinion - tweeters. As you may have guessed, these are tweeters, HF GG. Spelled with one t, this is not the name of a social network for gossip. Making a good “tweeter” from modern materials would be generally simple (the LR spectrum immediately goes into ultrasound), if not for one circumstance - the diameter of the emitter in almost the entire HF range turns out to be of the same order of magnitude or less than the wavelength. Because of this, interference is possible at the emitter itself due to the propagation of elastic waves in it. In order not to give them a “hook” for radiation into the air at random, the diffuser/dome of the HF GG should be as smooth as possible; for this purpose, the domes are made of metallized plastic (it absorbs elastic waves better), and the metal domes are polished.

The criterion for choosing high-frequency GGs is indicated above: dome ones are universal, and for fans of the classics who definitely require “singing” soft tops, diffuser ones are more suitable. It is better to take these elliptical ones and place them in the speakers, orienting their long axis vertically. Then the speaker pattern in the horizontal plane will be wider, and the stereo area will be larger. There is also an HF GG with a built-in horn on sale. Their power can be taken at 0.15-0.2 of the power of the low-frequency section. As for the technical quality indicators, any HF GG is suitable for Hi-Fi of any level, as long as it is suitable in terms of power.

Shiriki

This is a colloquial nickname for broadband GG (GGSH), which does not require filtering of speaker frequency channels. A simple GGSH emitter with general excitation consists of a LF-MF diffuser and a HF cone rigidly connected to it, pos. 3. This is the so-called. coaxial emitter, which is why GGSH are also called coaxial speakers or simply coaxials.

The idea of ​​the GGSH is to give the membrane mode to the HF cone, where it will not do much harm, and let the diffuser at the LF and at the bottom of the midrange work “on a piston”, for which purpose the LF-MF diffuser is corrugated across. This is how broadband GGs are made for initial, sometimes mid-range Hi-Fi, for example. the mentioned 10GD-36K (10GDSH-1).

The first HF cone GGSH went on sale in the early 50s, but never achieved a dominant position in the market. The reason is a tendency to transient distortion and a delay in the attack of sound because the cone dangles and wobbles from the shocks of the diffuser. Listening to Miguel Ramos play a Hammond electric organ through a coaxial cone is unbearably painful.

Coaxial GGSH with separate excitation of LF-MF and HF emitters, pos. 4 do not have this drawback. In them, the HF section is driven by a separate coil from its own magnetic system. The HF coil sleeve passes through the LF-MF coil. The PS and magnetic systems are located coaxially, i.e. along one axis.

GGSH with separate excitation at LF are not inferior to piston GG in all technical parameters and subjective assessments of sound. Modern coaxial speakers can be used to build very compact speakers. The disadvantage is the price. A coaxial for high-end Hi-Fi is usually more expensive than a LF-MF + HF set, although it is cheaper than a LF, MF and HF GG for a 3-way speaker.

Auto

Car speakers are formally also classified as coaxial, but in reality they are 2-3 separate speakers in one housing. HF (sometimes also midrange) GG are suspended in front of the LF GG diffuser on a bracket, see on the right in Fig. at first. Filtering is always built-in, i.e. There are only 2 terminals on the body for connecting wires.

Car speakers have a specific task: first of all, to “shout out” the noise in the car’s interior, so their designers don’t particularly struggle with the membrane effect. But for the same reason, car speakers need a wide dynamic range, at least 70 dB, and their diffusers are necessarily made with silk or other measures are used to suppress higher membrane modes - the speaker should not wheeze even in a car while driving.

As a result, car speakers are, in principle, suitable for Hi-Fi up to medium, inclusive, if you choose a suitable acoustic design for them. In all the speakers described below, you can install auto speakers of a suitable size and power, then there will be no need for a cutout for the HF GG and filtering. One condition: the standard terminals with clamps must be very carefully removed and replaced with lamellas for unsoldering. Modern car speaker speakers allow you to listen to good jazz, rock, even individual works of symphonic music and many chamber music. Of course, they won’t be able to handle Mozart’s violin quartets, but very few people listen to such dynamic and meaningful opuses. A pair of car speakers will cost several times, up to 5 times, less than 2 sets of GG with filter components for a 2-way speaker.

Frisky

Friskers, from frisky, is how American radio amateurs nicknamed small-sized low-power GGs with a very thin and light diffuser, firstly, for their high output - a pair of “frisky” 2-3 W each sound a room of 20 square meters. m. Secondly – ​​for the hard sound: “fast” ones work only in membrane mode.

Manufacturers and sellers do not classify “frisky” people as a special class, because they are not supposed to be hi-fi. The speaker is like a speaker, like any Chinese radio or cheap computer speakers. However, for the “frisky” ones, you can make good speakers for your computer, providing Hi-Fi up to and including average in the vicinity of your desktop.

The fact is that the “fast” ones are capable of reproducing the entire audio range; you just need to reduce their SOI and smooth out the frequency response. The first is achieved by adding silk to the diffuser; here you need to be guided by the manufacturer and its (not trade!) specifications. For example, all GG of the Canadian company Edifier with silk. By the way, Edifier is a French word and is read “ediffier”, and not “idifier” in the English manner.

The frequency response of “fast” ones is equalized in two ways. Small splashes/dips are already removed by silk, and larger bumps and depressions are eliminated by acoustic design with free access to the atmosphere and a damping pre-chamber, see fig; For an example of such an AS, see below.

Acoustics

Why do you need acoustic design at all? At low frequencies, the dimensions of the sound emitter are very small compared to the length of the sound wave. If you simply place the speaker on the table, the waves from the front and rear surfaces of the diffuser will immediately converge in antiphase, cancel each other out, and no bass will be heard at all. This is called an acoustic short circuit. You cannot simply mute the speaker from the rear to the bass: the diffuser will have to strongly compress a small volume of air, which will cause the resonance frequency of the PS to “jump” so high that the speaker simply will not be able to reproduce bass. This implies the main task of any acoustic design: either to extinguish the radiation from the back side of the GG, or to turn it 180 degrees and re-radiate it in phase from the front of the speaker, while at the same time preventing the energy of the diffuser movement from being spent on thermodynamics, i.e. on the compression-expansion of air in the speaker housing. An additional task is, if possible, to form a spherical sound wave at the output of the speaker, because in this case, the stereo effect zone is widest and deepest, and the influence of room acoustics on the sound of the speakers is the least.

Note, important consequence: For each speaker enclosure of a specific volume with a specific acoustic design, there is an optimal range of excitation powers. If the power of the IZ is low, it will not pump up the acoustics; the sound will be dull and distorted, especially at low frequencies. An excessively powerful GG will go into thermodynamics, causing blocking to begin.

The purpose of the speaker cabinet with acoustic design is to ensure the best reproduction of low frequencies. Strength, stability, appearance – of course. Acoustically, home speakers are designed in the form of a shield (speakers built into furniture and building structures), an open box, an open box with an acoustic impedance panel (PAS), a closed box of normal or reduced volume (small-sized speaker systems, MAS), a bass reflex (FI), passive radiator (PI), direct and reverse horns, quarter-wave (QW) and half-wave (HF) labyrinths.

Built-in acoustics are a subject of special discussion. Open boxes from the era of tube radios; it is impossible to get acceptable stereo from them in an apartment. Among others, it is best for a beginner to choose the PV labyrinth for his first AS:

• Unlike others, except FI and PI, the PV labyrinth allows you to improve the bass at frequencies below the natural resonant frequency of the woofer speaker.
• Compared to FI PV, the labyrinth is structurally and simple to set up.
• Compared to PI PV, the labyrinth does not require expensive purchased additional components.
• The elbowed PV labyrinth (see below) creates a sufficient acoustic load for the GG, while at the same time having a free connection with the atmosphere, which makes it possible to use LF GG with both long and short diffuser strokes. Up to replacement in already built speakers. Of course, only a couple. The emitted wave in this case will be practically spherical.
• Unlike all but a closed box and a HF labyrinth, an acoustic speaker with a MF labyrinth is capable of smoothing out the frequency response of the LF GG.
• Speakers with a PV labyrinth are structurally easily stretched into a tall, thin column, which makes them easier to place in small rooms.

Regarding the penultimate point - are you surprised if you are experienced? Consider this one of the promised revelations. And see below.

PV labyrinth

Acoustic design such as a deep slot (Deep Slot, a type of HF labyrinth), pos. 1 in Fig., and a convolutional inverse horn (item 2). We will touch on the horns later, but as for the deep slot, it is actually a PAS, an acoustic shutter that provides free communication with the atmosphere, but does not release sound: the depth of the slot is a quarter of the wavelength of its tuning frequency. This can be easily verified by using a highly directional microphone to measure the sound levels in front of the speaker and in the opening of the slit. Resonance at multiple frequencies is suppressed by lining the slot with a sound absorber. A speaker with a deep slot also dampens any speaker, but increases its resonant frequency, although less than a closed box.

The initial element of the PV labyrinth is an open half-wave tube, pos. 3. It is unsuitable as an acoustic design: while the wave from the rear reaches the front, its phase will flip another 180 degrees, and the same acoustic short circuit will result. In the frequency response of the PV pipe, it gives a high sharp peak, causing blocking of the GG at the tuning frequency Fn. But what is already important is that Fn and the frequency of the GG’s own resonance f (which is higher – Fр) are theoretically in no way related to each other, i.e. You can count on improved bass below f (Fр).

The simplest way to turn a pipe into a labyrinth is to bend it in half, pos. 4. This will not only phase the front with the rear, but also smooth out the resonant peak, because The wave paths in the pipe will now be of different lengths. In this way, in principle, you can smooth out the frequency response to any predetermined degree of evenness, increasing the number of bends (it should be odd), but in reality it is very rare to use more than 3 bends - wave attenuation in the pipe interferes.

In the chamber PV labyrinth (position 5), the knees are divided into the so-called. Helmholtz resonators - tapering towards the rear end of the cavity. This also improves the damping of the GG, smoothes the frequency response, reduces losses in the labyrinth and increases the radiation efficiency, because the rear exit window (port) of the labyrinth always works with “support” from the side of the last chamber. Having separated the chambers into intermediate resonators, pos. 6, it is possible with a diffuser GG to achieve an frequency response that almost satisfies the requirements of absolute Hi-Fi, but setting up each of a pair of such speakers requires about six months (!) of the work of an experienced specialist. Once upon a time, in a certain narrow circle, a labyrinth-chamber speaker with a separation of chambers was nicknamed Cremona, with a hint of the unique violins of Italian masters.

In fact, to obtain the frequency response for high Hi-Fi, just a couple of cameras per knee is enough. Drawings of speakers of this design are shown in Fig; on the left - Russian design, on the right - Spanish. Both are very good floor-standing acoustics. “For complete happiness,” it would not hurt the Russian woman to borrow the Spanish rigidity connections that support the partition (beech sticks with a diameter of 10 mm), and in return, smooth out the bend of the pipe.

In both of these speakers, another useful property of the chamber labyrinth is manifested: its acoustic length is greater than the geometric one, because the sound lingers somewhat in each chamber before passing on. Geometrically, these labyrinths are tuned to somewhere around 85 Hz, but measurements show 63 Hz. In reality, the lower limit of the frequency range turns out to be 37-45 Hz, depending on the type of low-frequency generator. If the filtered speakers from the S-30B are moved into such enclosures, the sound changes amazingly. For the better.

The excitation power range for these speakers is 20-80 W peak. Sound-absorbing lining here and there - padding polyester 5-10 mm. Tuning is not always necessary and is not difficult: if the bass is a bit muffled, cover the port symmetrically on both sides with pieces of foam until optimal sound is obtained. This should be done slowly, listening to the same section of the soundtrack each time for 10-15 minutes. It must have strong midranges with a steep attack (control of the midrange!), for example, a violin.

Jet Flow

The chamber labyrinth is successfully combined with the usual convoluted labyrinth. An example is the desktop acoustic system Jet Flow (jet flow) developed by American radio amateurs, which created a real sensation in the 70s, see fig. on right. The inside width of the case is 150-250 mm for speakers 120-220 mm, incl. “fast” and autodynamics. Body material – pine, spruce, MDF. No sound-absorbing lining or adjustment is required. The excitation power range is 5-30 W peak.

Note: There is now confusion with Jet Flow - inkjet sound emitters are sold under the same brand.

For the frisky and the computer

It is possible to smooth out the frequency response of car speakers and “fast” ones in an ordinary convoluted labyrinth by installing a compression damping (non-resonating!) pre-chamber in front of the entrance to it, designated K in Fig. below.

This mini-acoustic system is designed for PCs to replace the old cheap ones. The speakers used are the same, but the way they start to sound is simply amazing. If the diffuser is made of silk, otherwise there is no point in fencing the garden. An additional advantage is the cylindrical body, on which the midrange interference is close to minimal; it is less only on the spherical body. Working position – tilted forward and upward (AC – sound spotlight). Excitation power – 0.6-3 W nominal. Assembly is carried out as follows. order (glue - PVA):

• For children 9 glue the dust filter (you can use scraps of nylon tights);
• Det. 8 and 9 are covered with padding polyester (indicated in yellow in the figure);
• Assemble the package of partitions using screeds and spacers;
• Glue in padding polyester rings, marked in green;
• The package is wrapped, gluing, with whatman paper until the wall thickness is 8 mm;
• The body is cut to size and the antechamber is pasted over (highlighted in red);
• They glue the children. 3;
• After complete drying, they sand, paint, attach a stand, and mount the speaker. The wires to it run along the bends of the labyrinth.

About horns

Horn speakers have high output (remember why they have a horn in the first place). The old 10GDSH-1 screams through its horn so loudly that your ears wither, and the neighbors “can’t be happier,” which is why many people get carried away with horns. In home speakers, curled horns are used as they are less bulky. The reverse horn is excited by the back radiation of the GG and is similar to the PV labyrinth in that it rotates the phase of the wave by 180 degrees. But otherwise:

1. Structurally and technologically it is much more complicated, see fig. below.
2. It does not improve, but on the contrary, it spoils the frequency response of the speakers, because The frequency response of any horn is uneven and the horn is not a resonating system, i.e. It is impossible in principle to correct its frequency response.
3. The radiation from the horn port is significantly directional, and its waveform is more flat than spherical, so one cannot expect a good stereo effect.
4. It does not create a significant acoustic load on the GG and at the same time requires significant power for excitation (let’s also remember whether they whisper into a speaking speaker). The dynamic range of horn speakers can be extended, at best, to basic Hi-Fi, and in piston speakers with a very soft suspension (that is, good and expensive ones), the diffuser breaks out very often when the GG is installed in the horn.
5. Gives more overtones than any other type of acoustic design.

Frame

The housing for the speakers is best assembled using beech dowels and PVA glue; its film retains its damping properties for many years. To assemble, one of the side panels is placed on the floor, the bottom, lid, front and back walls, partitions are placed, see fig. on the right, and cover with the other side. If the external surfaces are subject to final finishing, you can use steel fasteners, but always with gluing and sealing (plasticine, silicone) of non-adhesive seams.

The choice of housing material is much more important for sound quality. The ideal option is a musical spruce without knots (they are a source of overtones), but finding large boards of it for speakers is unrealistic, since spruce trees are very knotty trees. As for the plastic speaker enclosures, they only sound good if they are manufactured in one piece, while amateur home-made ones made from transparent polycarbonate, etc. are a means of self-expression, not acoustics. They will tell you that this sounds good - ask to turn it on, listen and believe your ears.

In general, natural wood materials for speakers are difficult: completely straight-grained pine without defects is expensive, and other available building and furniture species produce overtones. It is best to use MDF. The above-mentioned Edifier has long since completely switched to it. The suitability of any other tree for AS can be determined by following. way:

1. The test is carried out in a quiet room, in which you first need to stay in silence for at least half an hour;
2. A piece of board approx. long. 0.5 m is placed on prisms made from sections of steel angles, laid at a distance of 40-45 cm from each other;
3. The knuckle of a bent finger is used to knock approx. 10 cm from any of the prisms;
4. Repeat tapping exactly in the center of the board.

If in both cases the slightest ringing is not heard, the material is suitable. The softer, duller and shorter the sound, the better. Based on the results of such a test, you can make good speakers even from chipboard or laminate, see the video below.

Good afternoon, lovers of good sound! Today I will introduce you to Fedor Gartsuev and his very interesting project Suono. Interesting step-by-step production of acoustics with your own hands; the end result is very high-class acoustic systems!

My brother and I had the idea to create something unusual that no one else would have had a long time ago. The love for true music left no doubt that these would be hand-made acoustic systems. While studying at the university, there were even trial options in the form of two-way “pillars” based on speakers from and a Chinese “tweeter”. Then invaluable experience in working with wood was gained, an understanding also emerged of what could be done and what would have to be tinkered with, and the need arose to purchase a tool. We are well aware of the importance of carefully calculating all acoustic parameters and sound settings. At that moment we couldn’t afford any of this, so the implementation of our plans was postponed indefinitely...

And last summer, when we had some free time, we decided to implement our plan and make the acoustics ourselves. We started working on the project. I didn’t want to make standard parallelepipeds; the idea was to “tear” some famous brand. I really liked Sonus Faber Stradivari, Aida, Jamo Epicon 8, but in each there was something that didn’t suit me, then my brother (later, they still found very interesting solutions). We went through a lot of options (see picture), and in the end we came to a project that suited both of us (later it was adjusted to fit the speakers we bought).

After reading the literature and thematic sites, analyzing the design of Hi-End class acoustics, and also being guided by logic and our own intuition, we came to the conclusion: the design of the cabinets must meet the following requirements:

1. Prevent the occurrence of standing waves inside the column.

2. Do not create sound distortions caused by resonances and re-reflection of sound waves in acoustics.

To ensure the first condition, the back panel was made narrow; the absence of parallel surfaces also contributes to this, and at the same time creates the effect of “infinite space”. But the speaker needs volume, so the front panel turned out to be quite wide. Most companies try to make the speaker as narrow as possible, but speakers with a wide front panel have better sound.

To ensure the second condition, the panel was broken at angles of 7.5 and 15 degrees to the radiation plane
speakers. Concave side surfaces, not a single plane perpendicular to both each other and the wave propagation front, all this serves one purpose - achieving, if not Hi-End, then at least good Hi-Fi. There are two phase inverters installed at the rear, however, they do not serve to resonantly enhance low frequencies, but to equalize the pressure inside the speaker and are tuned to other frequencies so as not to “whistle” when air passes through - two were installed on each speaker. The cabinet is mounted on four copper spikes, and the stand itself stands on three steel supports with plastic pads, with the ability to adjust the height and angle of inclination, all this is done so that the vibration of the speakers is not transmitted to the supporting surface. When viewed from above, AC Reminds me of a Soviet mouthpiece. Bulkheads are installed inside to provide rigidity and give the side surfaces the desired bending radius. The edges of the front and rear panels were rounded. It was also planned to cover the sides with veneer for aesthetics.

Work began with the selection of speakers. Break a bunch of sites, settled on Polish speakers Alphard. We found their representative office in Minsk, from which we purchased everything we needed; in addition, it turned out that the company was engaged in the manufacture of professional speakers and could provide assistance in the project. Looking ahead, I will say that we entrusted them with the calculation and production of crossovers, as well as the final refinement of the sound, which saved a lot of time and money. And they themselves are on the buildings.

Two sheets of plywood 18 mm thick and 9 meters of 95x35 mm timber were purchased. The plywood was laid out and cut into the required parts. Straight lines were cut with a circular saw according to the rule, and curved lines were cut with a router (at the same time, a compass was made for the router with the ability to set a radius from 300 to 1500 mm). I’ll make a reservation right away: cutting 18 mm plywood with a router is a bad idea, it’s better to cut the workpiece with a jigsaw with an indentation of 2-3 mm and finish the shape with a cutter, the surface will be cleaner. Complex details were printed on whatman paper at a scale of 1:1 and made into something like templates. For production It took about a month to complete the details; unfortunately, this process was not photographed. After processing all the parts, we assembled them:

We assembled everything using corners, screws and wood glue.

In the photo above, holes for speakers, bass reflexes and acoustic terminals have already been cut. To dampen any possible resonances and overtones, it was decided to line the internal surfaces with batting: they cut them into paper with a knife and secured them with a stapler. Immediately, in the lower cavity, they installed.

After much mockery of the 18 mm thick plywood, we were unable to bend it to the required radius. Therefore, it was decided to build the thickness of the side panels from three layers of thinner plywood. Each layer was screwed to the spacers with self-tapping screws and coated with wood glue to glue them together. The joints of all panels were lubricated with sealant from the inside. The gap between the panels in the photo is not shoddy build quality. The screws had to be loosened, otherwise the side panels would not fit. The top covers are rolled by the bypass cutter directly along the column.

Final fitting and assembly of some elements:

After the main part of the cases was assembled, we started sanding, puttying, sanding again... and so on until smooth, even surfaces were obtained. It took us two jars of putty and a set of sanding wheels. There was a lot of dust.

After everything was sanded, we started covering the speakers with veneer. The main color of the speakers is gloss black; the contrasting veneer patterns were intended to dilute this “blackness” and give a more aesthetic appearance. An experienced eye will immediately recognize the Jamo Epicon 8. The veneer was cut according to templates from whatman paper, using a knife on paper. If the veneer is thick (ours was 0.6 mm thick), then there is no need to try to cut off the entire depth at once - if it is too deep, it will burst.

This is not described in the instructions for the glue that was purchased along with the veneer, but from my experience I will say: it is better to apply the glue to the surface, not to the veneer, and let it sit for about three minutes. It is better to protect the surfaces around the pasting area with masking tape - the glue “warps” the plywood - these places will then have to be sanded, and the paint in these places does not want to stick at all.

While the glue is drying, it is advisable to periodically roll the veneer with a roller, since it gets wet from the glue, air cavities form under it, and if they are not removed immediately, it will be very problematic to remove them later.

After the glue has dried, the veneer can be sanded. Left before sanding, right after. It doesn’t look very nice right away, but after applying varnish or stain, everything changes.

Due to the lack of any other room, they painted on the balcony. Before painting, the balcony was thoroughly washed and covered with cellophane to prevent dust from entering the painting area. The cases were “vacuumed” and wiped with a lint-free cloth (available in auto stores). There is no need to wipe with a damp cloth - the veneer is very sensitive to liquids and begins to delaminate. To prevent paint from getting on the veneer, it was covered with masking tape. Since the surfaces are large, it is better to glue the tape only along the edges, and tuck sheets of paper cut to shape under it.

We chose acrylic as the paint and applied it.

The first layer will reveal all the imperfections of the wood (scratches, dimples, gaps) that were made during sanding. Everything that has appeared is cleaned, puttied, polished.

After this, several more layers of paint are applied. After the paint has dried, the masking tape is removed; this was probably the most pleasant moment in all four months. There was an idea to cover the veneer with a mahogany stain, but on the test board it looked a bit gloomy, so we decided to leave it as is.

We paint the strips (we left 2 mm gaps between the veneer strips), limiting them with masking tape:

We put the name. To do this, we come up with a beautiful word or phrase; we borrowed the name from the Italian language. We apply the name to a special film using plotter cutting; this service is available everywhere and is inexpensive. We glue the film (it is self-adhesive) to the surface and apply paint; we used a car paint in a spray can.

After the paint has dried, remove the film and get a beautiful inscription:

We glue a plate with the characteristics of the speakers to the back panel; We screw on the lower stand and footrests, nothing complicated here, simple mechanical assembly. We coat everything with varnish using the same spray gun. The veneer acquired a yellowish tint and a gloss appeared on the paint.

We hammer in the bass reflexes, we need to hit them more carefully, We did break one, so we had to buy more b. We solder the acoustic terminals, put them on the sealant and screw them on.

Solder and install the speakers. It is worth noting that on the inside of the speakers along the edge, we glued rubber tubes to prevent air from “walking” through possible cracks.

This is the final stage. Place the speakers on the floor; We check the impedance with a multimeter, connect the amplifier...

First audition. This was the most long-awaited and exciting event - the result of four months of work. I won’t say that the sound has reached the High-End level (although I don’t even know what it should sound like), but it didn’t disappoint either.

Compared with existing Sony SS-F6000. At first the sound seemed like it (the ears were used to a different sound), but after a week of listening it began to seem like the only correct one. The sound is more "adult" compared to the "disco-pop" sound of Sony. The bass is not as powerful, but more collected, without boominess. Each instrument is in its place, has its own weight, is clearly visible, does not stick out or hide. Even at maximum volume, the music does not merge into one continuous roar. I can’t say anything about it: there is nowhere and nothing to measure the characteristics with.

Speakers Alphard WH656, Alphard WH506, Alphard TW-317, woofer, mid and tweeter respectively.

Some numbers:

1. The cost of the speakers is $400, of which $270 was spent on speakers and crossovers.
2. Maximum power 300 W.
3. Impedance 4 ohms.
4. The total weight of one column is 38 kg.

Dimensions 1135x370x315mm

On behalf of myself and the many fans of the Zvukomania website, I would like to express and wish great creative success to Fedor Gartsuev!

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Don't be afraid to remake the equipment, look for yours!!!

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The quality of sound reproduction in a car depends entirely on the location of the device in the cabin. It is also necessary to take into account all technical parameters and the resonance indicator of the “boxes”. The housing of the sound reproduction device to be used in a particular application is ideally made of suitable materials capable of providing the necessary resonance. It is for this reason that the most productive work is working with your own hands. But how to make speakers if you have never done this before? To fully understand the matter and find an answer to this question, it is necessary to understand all the nuances of creating acoustic devices. Today you will get acquainted with information that will help you create a case yourself, which will have a positive impact on your budget and give you a lot of useful experience.

What is important for speakers?

First, you need to decide on the size of the equipment. And to determine the size, you should choose a location:

• The most popular place is the trunk because there is plenty of space. Also in this compartment there are all the conditions for creating a certain resonance, which makes the sound a little different.
• You can install it near the rear windows, but then you will have to reduce the size of the cases, since large devices simply will not fit.

How to make speakers with your own hands at home? To do this, you need to take a closer look at the four stages of creation.

Measurements

To determine the dimensions of the case you need:

• Choose a location.
• Evaluate the space you occupy.
• Measure the allocated area.

Important! If the trunk is chosen as the location, then 30 centimeters is quite enough, and for a location in the rear seats - at least 15 centimeters.

What are we building from?

In order to assemble the speakers, you should choose the following materials:

• Chipboard. It will be very easy to find such material, and the affordable price tag makes its contribution. The main advantage of chipboard is its good output, which will save the car enthusiast from listening to distortions. Also, the weight of a chipboard structure will be practically unnoticeable.
• Ebonite. Solid rubber products look good, but the muffled sound is a little disappointing. In addition, you will have a very difficult time finding a rectangle-shaped piece.

Important! Also, some buyers complain about an unpleasant odor, but ebonite is more flame-resistant, unlike chipboard, so short circuits (short circuits) are not scary for it.

• Wood. You can use any wood as a body, but seasoned experts recommend giving preference to oak or pine, since their structure has a good effect on the sound. In addition, no one forgets about the appearance, which in this case can be made very attractive.

Important! Wooden structures can be coated with a layer of paint, which will have a positive effect on the aesthetics of your invention.

Let's get started

How to make a speaker at home? The body is the most important component, so let’s look at its creation.

The most common and convenient option looks like this:

• Using a hacksaw, you prepare future parts from the selected material.
• Select the components on which the speakers will be attached and make holes in the central part.

Important! The diameter of the holes must be selected so that it matches the diameter of the bottom of the device.

• Next, cut out small rings that you attach to the holes you made. This will help secure the speaker well. Create a shape that resembles a plate with a knocked out bottom. Glue these rings to the finished components.
• Create a few more holes, only in the shape of a triangle. They need to be made around the above-mentioned rings. These actions will help achieve optimal sound reproduction, in which all waves will penetrate the housing.
• Take care of the inside of the structure and make small partitions. Choose a length that is identical to the length of the body. These parts will be needed to fix the bass reflex.
• Make compact ports into which terminals will later need to be threaded.

Assembly stage

To connect the case together you will need:

• Fasten all the parts using glue and screws.
• Fill the structure with padding polyester.
• Place the speaker in its place.

• Apply varnish to the invention in order to protect the material and give it a decent appearance.

Important! For painting, you can also use special wood paint, and some of the components can even be made in any other color scheme.

Sound systems

In fact, speakers are not always required. You can create acoustics in a car in another way:

• Make foam podiums. To do this, you need to create a cardboard template and place it on the place where the podium is supposed to be.
• Cut a solid base. A sheet of plywood or reinforcement can help you with this.
• Create a base from two rings. The radius of the first must be identical to the radius of the mesh, which is intended for protection. The diameter of the second ring must be kept in accordance with the size of the column.
• Connect the rings using self-tapping screws.
• Make 6 bars to recreate the slope. All parts will need to be fastened together with glue.
• Pour foam into the structure and leave until completely dry.

Important! Instead of sheets of plywood, you can take pieces of different wood. For such a task, you should choose only dry materials that do not have visible defects or cracks. In this case, it is also recommended to varnish the entire structure in order to give it reliability. If you are looking for greater efficiency, then secure all components using 2 slats.

Acoustic design does not mean decorating the speakers with carvings in an antique style, although this will give the speakers uniqueness, but solving the problems of acoustic short circuit.
The fact is that when the diffuser moves, excess air pressure is formed on one side, and the air is discharged on the other. For sound to occur, it is necessary that air vibrations propagate into space and reach the listener, and in this case the air vibrates around the dynamic head basket and the sound pressure it creates is not very high, especially in the low frequency region:

More details about the principle of operation of the dynamic head HERE.
Methods of breaking the acoustic circuit are called acoustic design, and each of them is designed to make it difficult for air to penetrate from one side of the diffuser to the other.
There are several main options for breaking an acoustic short circuit. The simplest is to use sheet material in the middle of which a hole is cut for the dynamic head. This is called an acoustic screen:

A slightly more complex method is an open box, i.e. drawer without back wall:

Both of the above methods have too little efficiency, so they are practically not used only in cases where “there is no fish and no cancer.”
It is much more effective to use a closed box, and in such speakers special attention is paid to the tightness of the box - any gap in the box will produce overtones, since quite a lot of pressure arises in the box (when the diffuser goes inside the box) and a fairly large vacuum (when the diffuser moves out) :

The next option for acoustic design is a box with a bass reflex:

In this case, this is a rectangular hole located in a strictly calculated location on the front panel of the speaker system. However, this option can also be done using a pipe:

The advantages of these options include increased output at the frequency at which the bass reflex is designed, the main purpose of which is to invert, i.e. change the phase to the opposite. As a result, sound is emitted into space not only by the front part of the diffuser, but also by the rear part, the phase of which is changed by the bass reflex.
A more complex version of acoustic design is an acoustic labyrinth. The essence of this option is that the passages inside the speakers are located in such a way that resonance occurs at a certain frequency and, as a result, a large increase in output at this frequency. The calculations and manufacturing accuracy of such systems should be taken VERY seriously, since there is a high probability of “standing” waves occurring in the labyrinth. In this case, the sound quality will be even worse than that of the option with an acoustic screen:

The horn version allows you to get even greater output at the resonant frequency:

The difference between a horn speaker and a labyrinth speaker is that the direction of sound waves varies according to different laws - the horn either expands conically along its entire length, or exponentially. The labyrinth can have the same window along its entire length, it can expand or, on the contrary, narrow, but always linearly. In addition, for speakers with a labyrinth, both the front and rear parts of the diffuser take part in the work, while for horn speakers, both one and both sides can radiate.
The next acoustic design option is a bandpass or bandpass resonator:

This option differs from all previous ones primarily in that it emits only at the resonance frequency and requires strict adherence to the design dimensions.
The last three options are mainly designed for using a low-frequency dynamic head, while the previous ones are quite suitable for wideband speakers. Therefore, if the acoustic system has, in addition to woofers, others, for example, midrange and HF, then it is not recommended to embed them into the housing with the woofer.
In any case, to calculate the speaker sizes, you will need the characteristics of the dynamic head, in particular the Thiel-Small parameters. If this data is not available, it is necessary to obtain it before calculating the dimensions of the speaker housing. There are quite a lot of descriptions of methods for obtaining these parameters - just use any search engine.
Of course, these are not all types of acoustic design - these are the most popular.
The enclosure dimensions are calculated using special programs for calculating speaker enclosures. Finding them on the Internet, as well as instructions on how to use them, is also not problematic.
When designing speakers, you should take into account some technological features - if the front panel on which the speaker is installed is recessed into the housing, then you will need to make additional ribs into which the front panel will actually rest:

If you don’t want to mess around with the ribs, you can make the front panel so that it rests against the sides of the case, which also strengthens the connection between the front panel and the sides:

All this will give the front panel an additional, more rigid connection with the body.
You should also not forget about the methods of attaching the dynamic head to the front panel and the pitfalls that you may encounter. Mounting the speaker from the outside is most preferable, since it does not mechanically weaken the structure, but this method involves chamfering along the diameter of the dynamic head and sinking the speaker inside the body so that ALL emitters, bass, midrange, and treble are in the same line. chamfering reduces the mechanical strength of the front panel and its restoration will require an additional ring secured from the inside. The relevance of this ring is the higher, the greater the power expected to be obtained from the speaker being manufactured, and at powers above 150 W it is already 100% necessary:

If necessary, you will need to remove the side chamfers on the ring so that it does not interfere with the front panel installation into the case itself.
When installing the dynamic head, it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps. If the chamfer is removed by a machine, the surface turns out to be relatively smooth; all that remains is to sand it. However, at home it is quite difficult to obtain a flat surface. It is not entirely clear what the manufacturers are doing here - it is strongly recommended to install the speaker from the outside, but the sealing rubber on almost all dynamic heads is located for installation from the inside:

To solve sealing problems, you can use door seals - self-adhesive strips of porous rubber, sold in all hardware stores. The sealant is glued along the perimeter of the chamfer and when installing the speaker, it completely fills all the cracks:

If the dynamic head is installed from the inside, then the hole will need to be chamfered to prevent the appearance of standing waves. However, such a chamfer weakens the rigidity at the point where the speaker is attached to the panel (the material is too thin) and this method of fastening is not acceptable for powers above 50 W without additional reinforcement of the structure:

It is advisable to use natural material for the manufacture of speaker cabinets, optimally plywood, but this material is too expensive. Therefore, it is better to use plywood to build speakers of medium and high price categories, using dynamic heads of VERY good quality and power above 100 W.
For the average price category and low powers (up to 50W), you can use fiberboard or MDF (the same as fiberboard, only the thickness and density is greater), but it must be processed and modified, or chipboard.

For powers up to 10 W, plastic is also quite suitable, but also using technological tricks.
The first problem when making speakers from plastic arises when eliminating the chatter of the plastic itself, especially manifested in the centers of the sidewalls. You can get rid of this unpleasant sound by using thicker plastic, or you can glue additional stiffeners. If the plastic is dissolved with dichloritane, then dichloritane with plastic chips dissolved in it can be used to attach the ribs. If the plastic is not dissolved by dichloroethane, then it is better to use epoxy glue, preferably made in Dzerzhinsk. Before gluing, carefully sand the contact areas with coarse sandpaper and do not be afraid that the glue forms beads at the point of contact of the parts to be glued:

For greater efficiency in suppressing overtones of the body, you can “paint” the resulting “baths” in 2-3 layers with anti-gravel - a coating used to cover the underbody of cars to protect against small gravel.

After drying, anti-gravel acquires the properties of rubber and absorbs sound quite well.
When using fiberboard as a material for the manufacture of speakers, it is necessary to determine the required thickness. If the speaker power does not exceed 5 W, then fiberboard can be used in one layer. Before cutting the fiberboard, it is coated on one side with epoxy glue and heated with a hairdryer. Under the influence of temperature, the glue becomes more liquid and impregnates the fiberboard to almost half the thickness. Once the glue has hardened, the resulting material is quite strong, essentially getinax, but on the one hand retains the sound-absorbing properties of fiberboard. You can cut DPV with a jigsaw, and you can glue the workpieces with epoxy glue reinforced with material. To do this, the blanks are folded into the desired structure and secured with any SUPERGLUE. Then strips of strong fabric are cut, in our case it is red silk. The width of the strips should be approximately 3...4 cm. The strips are laid at the joints of the workpieces, covered with epoxy on top, and then “ironed” with a 40...60 W soldering iron. High temperature allows the glue to completely saturate the fabric, and also significantly accelerates the polymerization of the glue. True, during operation a certain amount of smoke is released, so work must be done either outside or under a hood:

If the speaker power is higher than 10 W, but less than 20, then it is better to glue the fiberboard in half - first the sheets are glued together, and then the finished case is assembled:

For powers up to 30...35 W, you will need to fold the fiberboard in three or use 18 mm thick chipboard (unfortunately, 22 mm thick chipboard can only be found in old grannies in the form of old wardrobes made before the 80s). To stiffen the sidewalls, you can use spacers of the "CROSS" type:

For powers up to 50 W, the relevance of using fiberboard is already debatable - it is much easier to work with chipboard, MDF or plywood than to fold fiberboard from 4-5 layers. For this, material with a thickness of 18 mm is suitable, but you will have to use additional bars to ensure a greater connection between the speaker parts:

The speaker can be assembled using self-tapping screws, but since the power is not greater, it can be glued with epoxy glue or PVA, but it is better to buy it not at an office supply store, but at a hardware or construction store. This PVA will be called MOMENT-STOLYAR, water-dispersion glue. Buy on the market Recommended only in summer - after freezing the glue seriously loses its quality. However, to ease your conscience, it is better to screw at least a couple of screws into each block.
When manufacturing speakers, sometimes they make a serious mistake - the mid-HF link is not acoustically protected in any way from the impact of the back side of the woofer cone, which leads to a decrease in the efficiency of the speaker itself, and often the failure of the midrange link - too strong air impacts from the back side of the woofer diffuser lead to the midrange speaker coil being pushed out of the magnetic gap and the coil jamming.
Much more often they forget to subtract the volume of the protective casing of the midrange-high-frequency speakers from the total volume of the speaker; as a result, the internal volume of the speaker is less than necessary and the final characteristics are greatly blurred - the resonant frequency of the phase interferors increases noticeably, which results in unwanted overtones.
When assembling speakers with a power of up to 100 W, you can also use either chipboard or plywood 18 mm thick, although of course it is better to look for material 22 mm thick. To eliminate the occurrence of resonances in the sidewalls of the speaker body, additional support bars are also used through which parts of the speaker are attached. It would not be superfluous to install a “cross” and an additional washer for attaching the woofer dynamic head, as well as treating the speakers from the inside with sound-absorbing materials, for example, pasting with paralon or foam plastic 5-10 mm thick, just do not forget that the pasting will “eat” part of the internal volume and it is necessary to make an adjustment for it when calculating the dimensions of the body.

The best results are obtained with polyurethane foam, since the thickness of the applied layer can be adjusted by the speed at which the foam is released from the can. If the foam is released VERY slowly, then it turns out to be very dense and the increase in volume is not very large. If the foam is released VERY quickly, then it turns out to be much looser, and when it hardens, it greatly increases in volume. If foam is applied to the sides of the case from the front panel, increasing the foam output as it approaches the rear wall, and ensuring a minimum rate of foam output at the front panel, the internal volume of the speaker will take the shape of a pyramid lying on its side. Such tricks make it possible to completely solve the problems of standing waves, since there are no parallel planes inside the speakers, and the unevenness of the frozen foam only enhances the pyramid effect. When using this technology, you should be more careful when calculating the dimensions of the workpieces - the internal volume decreases VERY significantly and this requires a serious increase in the speaker body.

It is recommended to glue the ribs for fastening the sidewalls, in addition to the screed with self-tapping screws, as in the previous version, but there are several more options for adhesive masses:
- epoxy glue mixed with fine sawdust, or, better yet, wood dust;
- MOMENT-JOINER, but before screeding, the applied glue must be allowed to dry a little until it reaches the consistency of butter at room temperature. This will allow you to more completely fill with glue all the irregularities between the speaker parts;
- polyurethane glue, for example MOMENT-CRYSTAL, which also needs to be allowed to dry a little. After assembly, the gluing area must be thoroughly heated with a hairdryer, which will lead to the formation of small bubbles in the adhesive mass, and the mass itself will more tightly fill the unevenness between the contacting parts of the body;
- automotive sealant of domestic production, precisely domestic, since after hardening it is much tougher than imported sealants;
- mounting, polyurethane foam. Before applying it to the parts to be glued, the foam is “released” onto an unnecessary piece of plywood or fiberboard, and then thoroughly mixed with a metal spatula until it “shrinks,” i.e. until you obtain a mass similar in thickness to thick sour cream. After application and screeding, the foam will still expand slightly and completely fill all the irregularities at the point of contact between the speaker parts.
After gluing, the parts should be allowed to dry thoroughly for 20...26 hours.
To increase the volume at the same output power, you can use “double” dynamic heads - parallel or series connections of two identical speakers are used for the low-frequency section. In this case, the total area of ​​the diffusers increases, therefore the speaker can interact with a much larger amount of air, i.e. create greater sound pressure and this makes the subjective loudness much higher:

It should be noted here that the use of a large number of speakers, including for dividing the audio range, begins to introduce some troubles - it is quite difficult to achieve signal phasing in those places where the frequency response of speakers neighboring in the range intersects. Therefore, you should not chase a large number of bands for a homemade speaker - this mess can be very spoiled with such oil.
It is better to make speakers with a power from 100 to 300 W from plywood, and you will have to look for plywood with a thickness of 22 mm. The speaker is also assembled using stiffening bars that are glued. It is better to give the bars the shape of equilateral triangles, where the legs will be attached to the sides, and the hypotenuse will be directed inside the body.
If you cannot find plywood of this thickness, then you can use 8 mm thick plywood glued in three - the final thickness of the material is 24...25 mm. The adhesives are listed above.
As technological advice, we can only recommend first cutting the necessary blanks and only then gluing them, and immediately tightening them with self-tapping screws.
When installing a “cross” inside the AC, which would not be amiss, it is better to round the corners of the tie bars - quite large volumes of air are already moving and turbulence may occur around the right corners of the screeds. It is also recommended to “round” all internal corners using plasticine or applying several layers of thick anti-gravel.
Another type of acoustic design is separate housings for each speaker. These speakers do not use passive filters, and the signal is divided into ranges immediately after the amplifier's volume control. The split signal is then fed to three separate power amplifiers, which each drive their own speakers:

It would be unfair not to mention the “fillers” often used in speakers - small rollers of sound-absorbing material lying inside the speaker. Such rollers make it possible to slightly increase the calculated internal volume of the body, however, in order to correctly manufacture such a “filler” it is necessary to know its acoustic properties. Obtaining the characteristics of the “filler” in a home-made environment is quite problematic, so the only thing left to do is either refuse to use the “filler” or experimentally find out the required volume and the material used (usually fluff wool, batting, sentipon).
At powers above 100 W, it also becomes important to ensure the stability of the speaker cabinet, since quite a lot of work is already being done to move the diffuser and the air is actively “resisting”. It is also advisable to break the mechanical connection between the bottom of the speaker and the floor on which the speaker is installed. For these purposes, they usually use either tripods, which are problematic to make at home, or they use steel spikes screwed into the bottom of the speaker:

At powers above 200 W, it is desirable to strengthen the front panel of the speaker and it is desirable to use materials of different structures, for example, if the front panel is made of plywood, then a sheet of chipboard is glued to the inside, the thickness of which is 1.5-2 times less than the thickness of the panel. This combination of materials ensures the absorption of vibrations in a larger audio range precisely due to the heterogeneity of the materials.
For greater stability of the speaker, its mass can be increased by coating the bottom with polyurethane foam and laying a couple of bricks in it, covering them on top with the same foam. After the foam has hardened, it is better to cut off the irregularities with a stationery cutter. The “stolen” internal volume must be taken into account when calculating the size of the future speaker.
For powers above 200 W, it is better to use combination materials - all speaker parts are glued together from 18 mm chipboard and 18 mm plywood. Plywood is used as the outer layer and chipboard as the inner layer. This trick allows you to save a little - chipboard is much cheaper than plywood. It is advisable to glue the inside of the speaker with sound-absorbing material, for example, triple-sewn batting, double-stitched with quadruple padding (the padding can be double and quadruple), 5...10 mm polystyrene foam. The different structure of tightly glued materials of different structures eliminates the problem of resonance of the body itself.
It is better to additionally tighten the corners with metal corners - this will add rigidity to the structure and protect the corners of the speakers from damage - the speakers are already quite heavy and during transportation various impacts are possible from which the corners most often suffer.

For powers closer to 1000 W, the thickness of the material should already be quite large, for example, two layers of 18 mm plywood plus a layer of 18 mm DPS for a total of 54 mm, and the DPS is glued between the layers of plywood, however, the speakers already move into the category “for sound”, therefore quality can be sacrificed in favor of mobility. Based on this, you can use double 18 mm plywood, installing a “cross” inside.
It is not difficult to notice that with increasing power, the thickness of the speaker walls increases. This is primarily due to the fact that it is necessary to isolate the air moving inside the speaker from the listener. However, we should not forget that the speaker cabinet can also resonate. It is to eliminate this nuisance that it is better to use internal pasting of the housings and minimize the overtones obtained from resonance. It is not difficult to check the resonant frequency of the housing yourself. To do this, you need to tilt the speaker 20...25 degrees and throw a rubber mallet on top of it, from which you first pull out the handle. The tilt of the AC is necessary so that the blow is single and the mallet bounces far to the side.
A microphone attached to the speaker (the membrane hole to the body) and connected to any linear amplifier on the oscilloscope screen will draw both the moment of impact and the aftersound that the body itself gives. The test is, of course, quite crude, since in reality the “shock wave” comes from the inside, and during the experiment from the outside, however, based on the results of this test, one can judge at what frequency the body itself resonates and how quickly attenuation occurs:

An ideal speaker does not cut and the moment of impact fades immediately, almost instantly, but the walls of an ideal speaker consist of concrete 1 cm thick for every watt of power and such a speaker is more suitable for ridicule than for use:

The finishing of the speakers can be very different, there are no strict requirements here. If the body is made of plywood and the pattern is quite attractive, then the body can be sanded and then coated several times with colorless varnish:

You can buy veneer from valuable wood species and cover the speakers with veneer to match the color of the furniture in the room:

Car audio stores sell so-called acoustic fabric, which is synthetic felt. The material adheres well and stretches, which will allow you to finish the speakers at a fairly high level:

Having sanded the body, you can paint it with car paint, just make allowance for the fact that car enamels need to be dried at high temperatures. Therefore, you will have to use a special hardener "IZUR", the mixing proportions are written on the packaging of the hardener, although it is better to add 10-15% more than the suggested proportion:

If the body is carefully sanded and sanded, then it can be covered with a self-adhesive film sold in BOI stores, but this material is quite delicate and should be used if you are sure that the speakers will stand in their place for ten years:

If you plan to frequently transport the speaker system, it will be very useful to provide appropriate handles. This is especially true for small speakers, which you want to take two at once, and for large ones, which simply have a lot of weight.

How to independently assemble an active speaker with increased efficiency at low frequencies is described.

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