The bathhouse is a real panacea for diseases. Bath procedures help improve blood circulation, thereby accelerating metabolic processes. But for comfort in the bathhouse you need an appropriate microclimate. The optimal temperature/humidity ratio is 60/60. At the same time, higher temperatures and humidity cause significant discomfort. And the lack of humidity makes the vaping procedure unpleasant. Therefore, many lovers of Russian baths are wondering how to increase the humidity in it.
How to make your stay in the steam room comfortable
A Russian bath requires knowledge and the ability to steam: in order for the steam in the bath to be “light”, you need to be a master of the bath business
There can be many reasons for the lack of humidity in the steam room. The most common of them is the incorrect selection of the stove. Modern stoves intended for baths or saunas. The second option involves dry heat with high temperature. As professionals say, if you increase the humidity in a hot bath (at a temperature above 70°C), you can simply cook it. If you have a problem with the stove, then it is more advisable to change it.
Some people advise placing a brick screen around the stove, which will partially absorb the heat. In this case, to achieve the required level humidity will have to be poured a large number of water on the heater.
The ideal ratio of temperature and humidity in a Russian steam room is obtained when the heat-intensive heater is made of brick.
Another reason is the dry wood of the walls and ceiling. Dry wood quickly absorbs moisture. To prevent this from happening, pour water over the walls and ceiling while heating the steam room. While the stove is heating, the wood will absorb some of the water, and the rest will evaporate, increasing the humidity.
A leaking water tank attached to the stove will significantly increase the humidity. The water in the tank will heat up and evaporate. The amount of steam depends on the area of the open hole in the tank - the larger it is, the stronger the evaporation.
You can place a metal basin with water on the shelves in the steam room, which will evaporate during the steaming process.
Finally, before taking bath procedures, you can install an air humidifier or steam generator in the steam room.
This is how professionals advise increasing the air humidity in the steam room to the desired level.
Well...................., I feel like I can’t be bothered with revelations, then I take the fire upon myself, listen and correct me.
The beginning is completely banal, I flooded it and went to do business, the door to the steam room is closed and only it is heated, and I don’t pour any water on the walls, but I turn on the dropper (0.7 liters) immediately, as soon as the gun heats up to the required temperatures, I sprinkle wormwood into the flavoring agent and I leave again. When the temperature in the steam room reaches 45 C, I open the door to the sink and rest room. My opinion is that burst heating is more effective than gradual heating. For a while everything stays like that, the stove is heated, all the rooms are heated, a dropper with a fragrance gives just a crazy wormwood spirit . (For comparison, when they bake pies in the oven and open it for some reason, a hot wave of baked pastry appears, thick and stimulating; I experience about the same thing when I enter a CO from the street and the wave of warm wormwood is simply intoxicating.). I understand that everything has warmed up and now I can start preparing the steam room. The door is closed and the surface of the walls and ceiling (aspen lining) is sprayed hot water, the dropper opens slightly more. I cover the top row of vents with a bandage. openings of the stove (Malyutka) and leave for a short time, then everything is repeated, firewood is added, the walls and ceiling are sprayed, the drip is topped up and the humidifier is filled (working name) this is a board with inclined blind grooves, it holds a lot of water and very quickly gives off. For reference, I spray with a regular 2-liter flower sprayer, pump it up and water it. It takes 3 - 4 volumes,
When I understand that the bathhouse is coming, I go to have fun.
After this point, I switch the stove to “starvation” burning, this is when all the air is cut off and the wood simply smolders.
The temperature is 45 - 47 degrees, the humidity is such that when you lie down on the canopy, sweat appears very quickly, and at the beginning it is not even sweat but condensation, which flows down pleasantly tickles the body. You can lie in this paradise for an infinitely long time and immediately pulls you to sleep. Struggling When I sleep, I get wet like a border guard at a post and get amazing pleasure.
Then a shower with soap, a TV chair, tea - kvass. The second visit is almost the same, but first I spray the walls again, a humidifier. The temperature is 47 - 49, everything happens without the participation of a broom, it still hangs dry in the CO. Number of visits according to my mood and by feeling.
Finally there is a desire to take a steam bath, by that time the temperature is 55 - 57 degrees and the humidity is sufficient. A broom in the pipe, a couple of ladles of water on top and it’s ready, and the smell is awesome, like birch or oak, but it really doesn’t last long. By the way, in a wet steam room, the smell wormwood is felt weaker than in dry and hot.
The broom is ready, the client is warmed up and the ritual begins, the sweat is no longer from the condensation of steam, but real sweat, a ladle or steam on the heater, you scoop up fresh steam as much as possible and treat yourself to your loved one until the body tells you what to do next, and then shower, go out breathe outside, drink kvass and tea, sit in a chair in front of the TV. And so on until you feel like you’re running out of strength and it’s time to call it a day.
In short, I spray the walls before, during, and along with the spray. In general, it’s easier to get humidity at 45 degrees than at 56 - 60. That’s why I try to over-moisten the steam room from the very beginning, so that later it maintains the norm.
And now about the humidifier, a board, 40 ka with grooves (I already wrote about it), 250 grams of water fits in and evaporates it very quickly. There are plans to make a humidifier with an area of 1 sq. m and look at the result.
What am I doing wrong?
It is generally accepted that a sauna is simply a hot and dry stove in which a person quickly loses moisture, dries out, overheats, and, as a result, jumps out of the steam room within a few minutes after crossing its threshold. Standard sauna conditions are temperature below 100°C and humidity up to 15%.
The Russian bath is in many ways simpler and softer. The optimal temperature in the steam room of a Russian bath rarely exceeds 65-70°C. If we compare the conditions, we will see that the temperature of a Russian bath and a sauna is equally necessary, although it differs by 20-30 ° C, despite the fact that the humidity differs by two to three times. Therefore, the main problem in a Russian bath is not the high degree of air in the steam room, but its excessive waterlogging.
The correct supply of light steam in a Russian bath, according to experts, is done something like this:
- First of all, the walls of the steam room are heated; what air temperature is needed in the steam room is decided by the owners, but most often up to 50 o C, no more. Warm up thoroughly wood trim steam rooms, thereby increasing the effectiveness of thermal insulation. Heated walls are the key to light steam in a Russian bath;
- In a warm, but not hot Russian bathhouse, a small container with boiling hot water is placed on the stove in the steam room, which gradually fills the steam room of the bathhouse with light and non-hot steam over the course of an hour;
- After obtaining the required humidity, turn the stove to maximum and heat it on one stack of firewood until it burns out completely. The atmosphere is heated to 65 o C and remains stable, coupled with the required steam dryness, for an hour.
This steam will be the easiest and most useful.
Advice! To obtain light heat in an ordinary Russian bath, it would be useful to use a steam generator that produces a stream that is not hot, but saturated with small droplets.
The heat in a Russian bath rises slowly and is easily released by opening the ventilation valve or a regular window.
The best option will not let the organization of steam in a Russian bath take its course, but will competently heat the bathhouse and steam yourself or with a group, while the real light steam of a Russian bath is in the steam room. Visiting the steam room several times is also quite possible, but before each time the procedure for equalizing the humidity and temperature will have to be repeated anew. How quickly the steam in the steam room will be “corrected” for a new session depends on its design and proper management of the heater and vent.
Humidity, temperature and ventilation are three interrelated and interdependent characteristics of any bath that determine the comfort and benefits of the steaming procedure. Increasing one of them requires changing the others. By varying these values, an optimal microclimate for steamers is achieved.
Normally, the air humidity in a Russian bath is 80-100%, and the temperature is 50-60 degrees Celsius. Such high humidity is perfectly tolerated by the human body.
When does the need to reduce it arise?
If the stove is incorrectly selected or installed, the temperature regime in the steam room. When the temperature changes above the specified norm in a Russian bath, the steam becomes “heavy” and intense heat is felt. This happens if the power of the stove does not correspond to the volume of the steam room. During operation metal furnaces with the tank, sometimes there are complaints about increased humidity at low temperatures in the steam room (40-45 degrees). The water boils early, when the bath has not yet warmed up.
Therefore, even at the design stage it is necessary to select a suitable furnace. An increase in humidity in the bathhouse is possible due to inadequate air exchange.
Ventilation in log bath was not specially thought out, since the humidity outside and in the steam room was approximately the same. The issue was resolved by the building itself. Now there are various modifications to the construction of baths, and ventilation planning should be given Special attention. If the bathhouse has already been built, sometimes it is necessary to install a forced fan to eliminate this problem.
There is a method that allows you to reduce the accumulation of condensation on the ceiling and walls in the bathhouse (and, as a result, increase their service life), as well as ensure the creation of an adequate steam pocket.
Hot air collects under the ceiling and settles on it. The tree initially absorbs moisture, and then stops, and a so-called steam pocket is created. To adequately create steam, the ceiling must have a heat capacity.
To do this, at the construction stage of the bathhouse, the following structure should be formed.
When the walls have already been erected, sewn on them and on the ceiling construction stapler reflecting thermal insulation material- penofol. It is applied in a specific way: one edge overlaps the other to create a continuous layer. Then wide bars are nailed to which the eurolining will be attached. As a result, an air gap is created between the inner and outer skin walls and ceiling.
The furnace vent is mounted below floor level, and concrete is poured with a slope towards the drain pipe. The logs are installed in the form of a platform, under which they lay waterproofing material, and floorboards are laid on top. Under top layer the floor also forms an air gap.
How does this design work?
Hot steam passes from the room through the eurolining and is retained between it and the foam foam layer, creating a steam pocket. When condensation forms due to temperature changes, it flows onto the floor along the foil. The ash door opens and moist air exits through the chimney.
So, high humidity in the bathhouse will be comfortable if, at the design stage, you choose the right model and size of the stove and think about ventilation. In order for the sauna to last longer and to create the correct steam pocket, you need to create air gaps in the ceiling, walls and floor.
The best way to spend time for your body and peace of mind in winter is in the steam room. But which one should you choose? How to set the temperature there correctly to really improve your health?
Comparison of steam rooms (temperature, humidity)
There are many types of different pairs. Almost every nation has contributed something of its own to the art of washing the body using steam. The most common today are the Russian steam bath, Turkish hammam and Finnish sauna. New ones are gaining more popularity infrared saunas. Below is more information about how many degrees in the bathhouse, sauna and hammam and what Maximum temperature in sauna.
Of course it is optimal temperature suitable for almost all categories of people. Experienced bathhouse attendants, as a rule, prefer it hotter. Comfortable temperature for them in a Russian bath lies in the range of 90-120 degrees Celsius. When you come to a public bathhouse, where these seasoned bath attendants usually gather, be prepared to encounter exactly this temperature.
Russian steam bath
It’s not for nothing that the Russian bathhouse is called a steam room. Its big advantage is the absence big difference between the humidity in the bathhouse and outside the window. The optimal temperature in the bath is 60-90 degrees, maintained by a heater or stove, onto which water is poured to achieve the desired humidity level.
The optimal temperature in a Russian bath is in the range of 60-90 degrees. Experienced bath attendants can feel comfortable at temperatures up to 100-120 degrees Celsius.
The Russian bathhouse is the only steam room with such an interesting tradition as broom massage. The temperature and humidity in a Russian bath are considered optimal for removing toxins in the absence of a strong load on the body. During one visit you can stay in the Russian steam room 2-4 times for 15-20 minutes.
Finnish sauna
The Finnish sauna is completely different from the Russian bath. The temperature here is much higher - about 70-110 degrees, and the humidity is much lower - 5-15%.
It is optimal to visit the steam room no more than 2 times for 5-10 minutes per session in the Finnish sauna. A break of at least half an hour.
It is believed that the normal temperature in the sauna is 90-100 degrees, but if you feel unwell, then get out of there as soon as possible. Air that is so dry is simply not suitable for you. Try a Russian steam room or hammam.
