The furniture in the store is beautiful, attractive. Road. And it does not always turn out to be exactly the most desirable addition to the interior, as it was drawn in the imagination that was played out in earnest.

Another thing is custom-made furniture. The master came (at least that's what they call themselves), measured everything, asked everything, assessed everything, left to fulfill the order. Sometimes for a long time. Less often - not quite what was required. But the price of custom-made furniture often turns out to be even higher than its analogue, which is languishing in the store.

Guided by such considerations, the heads of middle-income Russian families often think that it would be nice to acquire the skills of the legendary Pope Carlo themselves and sculpt masterpieces of furniture architecture right at the place of their future residence. That is, at home.

Starting, as a rule, with "light infantry" - stools, bedside tables, coasters - simple hacksaw and ax workers inevitably face one problem. Her name is Smooth cut chipboard. Making reciprocating movements with the same hacksaw, or (worse) leading a vibrating jigsaw along the drawn marking line, they get anything but an uneven cut of the material. Well, maybe even. But this is a rarity.

But for cabinet furniture, geometrically flawless ends wooden boards are of critical importance. This is the quality of fitting elements together, and appearance decor and so on.

In what ways did our ancestors, who were more skilled in this matter, achieve this level of processing?

When working with a hacksaw, the tool itself is primarily important: its choice depends on the material being processed, its qualities and properties. For chipboard, which is now common, it is highly desirable to use a hacksaw with fine teeth, diluted by half the thickness of the canvas. A larger divorce will give a wide propyl and unwanted chips; narrow - to jam the tool in a chipboard sheet, which leads to mild psychosis. In addition, if the hacksaw is armed with hardened teeth, this only goes to her "plus" - and the wiring is preserved better, and the sharpening is lost more slowly. It is important.

However, sawing long cuts with such a hacksaw is fraught with significant fatigue, since small and frequent “teeth” are quickly clogged with wood dust and are no longer able to effectively perform their functions in this state. But still, at home, using a tool with just such parameters is most preferable. The sawing itself should be done under the maximum acute angle the cutting edge of the hacksaw to the sawn plate. This is less tiring, and besides, it gives the desired even cut.

Of the electrified devices in this area, such figures are known as electric jigsaw and a miter saw.

The first is characterized by a rather riotous nature with uncontrolled conduct of his harvesting. Techniques for his restriction of freedom here are quite simple and unpretentious. This is, first of all:

• guide - flat and straight, preferably a metal ruler, fixed with clamps along the marking line. Resting against it with the sole, the tool passes its distance almost perfectly, without “blockages” and chips.
• the file itself - its parameters, this is rigidity and purpose - for a simple chipboard - with small teeth directed upwards and without wiring, for a tree - divorced large teeth, predatory sticking out in different directions from the plane of the canvas. But about the first ones, it should be remembered that, after about a meter of cut, their canvas will inevitably heat up, lose its qualities and “tear” to the side. Almost always this happens with inevitability of 100%;
• adhesive tape pasted from the side where the teeth exit to the surface. Better yet, both. You never know ... Chips appear in these places. However, it is not out of place to monitor the strength of the bonding of the adhesive tape itself with the surface to be treated: if it is subsequently removed, it is itself capable of heaping up characteristic flaws, even worse than a file;
• two parallel cuts with a carpenter's knife on both sides of the marking line for the entire length of the intended cut. It also saves from chips, and is especially true for laminated chipboard sheets.

After sawing, you can modify the cut with a milling cutter or grinder, however, firstly, this is due to circumstances, and secondly, too many tools are already required for a cabinet that will appear in life once and for many years.

Pro miter saw only one thing can be said: it is necessary.

How to cut laminated chipboard, chipboard without chips? How to repair chips after cutting?

(10+)

Tell me, please, how to cut laminated chipboard, chipboard without chips?

Question:

When making furniture, you have to saw chipboard. Chipboard does not like this very much - it crumbles. Chips form along the edge. How to cut chipboard without chips or repair chips?

Answer:

But if you plan to use laminated chipboard whitewashed, then this method is not suitable. It is necessary to cut so that there are no chips. Sawing so that there are no chips without special equipment is quite difficult. A circular saw not only crumbles the edge, but can split the laminating coating half a meter along the plate. And any other tool gives an edge even worse.

Rumor has it that chipboard can be sawn without chips with a hacksaw with very small tooth, or even a jigsaw with a metal file with a very fine tooth. But I don't get out.

I saw chipboard, if you need to get a good edge, like this: I mark out - I draw lines along which the cut will go. I put a metal ruler along the line. I secure it with clamps. I cut the laminating coating with a cutter along the lines of the intended cut. The cut is made deep enough and wide (slightly wider than a hacksaw or circular disc). I run the cutter along the iron ruler several times until I cut through the coating completely. I do this on both sides. It is very important to mark correctly so that the markup above and the markup below match. After that, I already drink, usually hand saw on wood. But he already got used to getting into the slot with a circular.

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So, I collected a sufficient amount of material and decided to dash off another analytical note. This time the theme is sawing chipboard without chips.

There is a fairly fair opinion that it is possible to cleanly saw chipboard only on professional equipment(that is, a panel saw).

The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blade located strictly on the same axis. The first cuts the chipboard, the second cuts it through.

The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there are more expensive))). NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE FOR THE AMATEUR.

Not a bad way to trim incorrectly marked parts, but you can’t cut the whole cabinet in this way. Chips, of course, are present, but in an amount that is quite comparable with the formatter (it also, in secret, leaves a small number of small chips). A lot of hassle with markup. Only straight cuts can be made.

Method 5 - Fraser

Provides the cleanest edge of the workpiece; the quality is no different from the formatter, often even better.

With it, we first saw the workpiece with a jigsaw, departing from the marking line 2-3 mm, and then align the line according to the template (I usually use the second piece of chipboard, sawn on a formatter, of a suitable size). should be copy, that is, with a bearing.
Very clean cut. The possibility of carrying out curvilinear cuts, that is, the manufacture of many, including several completely identical ones. Cons - a lot of trouble: the need for accurate marking, preliminary sawing of blanks, setting a template or tire under the router, that is, not very suitable for mass use.

When you look at the price tags of furniture made from chipboard in a store, you are amazed at how expensive it is! But chipboard is one of the most available materials for the design of furniture with their own hands. Fortunately, all the necessary accessories are now on sale. And furniture projects, both on the Internet and in “paper” magazines, can now be found for every taste. So what's the problem? The main problem is to carefully cut the chipboard.

Of the household tools, the most suitable for cutting chipboard is a hand-held circular saw. But at chipboard cutting with its help, a number of problems arise: 1) it is very difficult to follow a strictly straight line, the saw wags; 2) chips are formed.

Are there any ways to solve these problems? Eat. It is about them that we will tell today. By the way, all these tricks apply to cutting plywood.

Tip 1: Cut chipboard on the floor with full support

Cutting with full support means that when you bring the saw to the end, the cut chipboard sheet won't fall off right away.

If you want a very even and crisp cut, chipboard is better just cut on the floor. So you will 100% get a solid, stable foundation. The chipboard won't move even if you climb on top of it to finish the cut. You will also be sure that the cut piece will not fall off, split or fall.

Place 5 x 10 cm blocks under the chipboard sheet perpendicular to the direction of the cut. The bars will have to be sacrificed, as the saw will go through them. The more stable your chipboard sheet lies, the neater the cut will be.

Tip 2: Adjust the depth of cut

The correct depth of cut affects the quality of the cut.

Adjust the depth so that no more than half a tooth of the disc protrudes beyond the bottom edge of the chipboard or plywood (see photo above). This may not seem important to you, but believe me, the depth of cut greatly affects the quality of the cut. With this setting, the tooth cuts the material instead of chopping it, and the saw is also stabilized so that it vibrates less during the cutting process. Both of these factors make saw marks on cut chipboard less noticeable.

Position the saw along the edge of the chipboard, raise the guide and look closely to set the correct cutting depth. By the way, at the same time it is good to check the saw blade for damage, because a saw with bad teeth will make a rough cut. Another point: the saw is designed so that its stroke goes up, so chips are most often formed on that chipboard surfaces, which is facing up, and the cut from the side of the surface, looking down, is cleaner. Therefore, when cutting chipboard, have a good, front side down.

Tip 3: For rip cuts, use a hard, long, straight object as a guide

As a guide for making an even straight cut, it is convenient to use a narrow long piece of chipboard, 16mm thick and about 30cm wide, which was cut professionally in a specialized workshop. All you need is to tighten its ends with a clamp.

The main difficulty is to position it in the right place for an accurate cut. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the edge of the saw support platform to the blade (see photo below).

Add this value to the width of your cut, make marks on the chipboard at both edges and lay the guide board. You also need to factor in the thickness of the saw blade in your measurements.

Usually it is best that the metal base plate circular saw rested against the edge of the guide, so maximum stability of the saw is achieved during cutting.

Tip 4: Check the guide before making the cut

This is, so to speak, fine tuning. Make a mark with a pencil - a line 5 cm long, thus determining the width of the part to be cut. Then start the saw, press the saw support platform against the guide and score the chipboard. Make sure that the saw blade begins to rotate in the air before it touches the sheet being cut, otherwise the edge of the sheet may split. Now measure the distance from the edge of the sheet to the notch to make sure that you did everything and calculated correctly. It is better, as they say, to measure seven times ...

Tip 5: Cut at a constant speed without stopping

Cut without stopping and maintain a constant speed. If you stop, there will be a mark on the chipboard or plywood.

Cutting speed depends on many factors, including the type of saw blade and the sharpness of the blade, as well as the material you are cutting. In general, the sharp disk passes through the chipboard sheet with little resistance, as if it were melting the wood. If you feel like you have to force and push the saw, either you are sawing too fast or the blade is dull. Too fast cutting tears the fibers of the chipboard and leaves visible marks on the cut. Too slow can cause the disc to overheat and ignite the wood.

Then you will get both marks and a burnt mark on the cut. That's why it's best to cut on the floor when you're making a long cut. You can crawl on your knees right on the chipboard, following the movement of the saw, without the need to reach or bend.

Just calculate in advance whether the length of the electrical cable is enough for you.

Tip 6: Get a disc with more teeth

The more teeth on the disc, the sharper the cut will be. And, of course, the disc must be sharp.

In principle, all the discs from the picture above are able to make a good cut on chipboard and plywood. As we wrote above, the more teeth, the better the cut. However, the disadvantage of the 140 tooth disc is that it dulls faster than the other three types. Especially if you are cutting chipboard. Take a disc with 40 or 56 teeth. It's better to keep another one in reserve. A 56-tooth blade is commonly used for cutting.

Tip 7: Cross cutting is best done with duct tape

The cross cut is perpendicular to the grain of the plywood, and even the sharpest blade easily leaves behind chips. This a big problem, The best decision which, buy a disc for cutting laminate, which we wrote about above. However, you can perform this task using other disks. To do this, stick adhesive tape on both sides of the cut line. It will prevent the formation of chips.

You need to remove it carefully, pull it in the direction perpendicular to the cut (see photo below) so as not to damage the chipboard laminating coating.

And one last piece of advice. If you need to cut expensive material from the front side, cover the saw platform with duct tape so that it does not leave scratches on the surface of the sheet.

In general, I have already considered this in a review article that was devoted to without the use of a panel saw.

Today I decided to dwell in more detail on the method available to most do-it-yourselfers - this is sawing with an electric jigsaw, since this tool is very widespread. In this lesson, I used a household electric jigsaw Skill 4581LA, by the way, a very good machine.

For the highest quality cut, the following conditions must be met

• the file must be fine-toothed (metal sawing is optimal)
• sawing is carried out at medium speed

in addition, for greater cleanliness of the cut, we will use such a modification as sawing "by scratch". Its essence lies in the fact that the laminate is scratched to the full depth and its pieces, pulled out by the teeth of the file, do not go beyond the scratch boundary. For clarity, I will give a few photos.

You need to scratch along the ruler (with any sharp object - I used a perk drill, or you can even use a self-tapping screw.) So that the ruler does not move during the scratching process, I additionally fixed it with a clamp - you can use a couple.

We scratch to the entire depth of the laminate, that is, until sawdust appears in the scratch.

Then we take the jigsaw, and we lead it so that the file goes as close as possible to the edge of the scratch, while not going beyond this border.

Thus, chips are formed only on the unnecessary side, without going beyond our marking line.

Once again the same cut upon its completion. It can be seen that minimal chips still remain, although they can be on professional equipment. But the evenness of the cut leaves much to be desired.

Of course, there are unique people who can cut with a jigsaw fairly evenly. I am not one of those. Of course, the class of the tool itself also plays a significant role. As a rule, in inexpensive tools, the file is not as stable as in professional models. Due to this, she is led away in the direction of sawing.

In general, this method has the right to exist, but I would not recommend putting it on stream.