The furniture in the store is beautiful and attractive. Road. And it doesn’t always turn out to be exactly the desired addition to the interior as it was pictured in the wildly over-the-top imagination.

Another thing is custom-made furniture. The master came (at least that’s what they call themselves), tried on everything, asked everything, assessed everything, and left to fulfill the order. Sometimes for a long time. Less often is not quite what was required. But the price of custom-made furniture is often even higher than its counterpart, which is languishing in the store.

Guided by such considerations, the heads of Russian families with average incomes often think that it would be nice to acquire the skills of the legendary Papa Carlo themselves and sculpt masterpieces of furniture architecture right at the place of their future residence. That is, at home.

Starting, as a rule, with “light infantry” - stools, bedside tables, stands - simple hacksaw and ax workers inevitably face one problem. Her name is Smooth cutting of chipboard. By making reciprocating movements with the same hacksaw, or (what is worse) driving a vibrating jigsaw along the drawn marking line, they get anything but an even cut of the material. Well, maybe even. But this is a rare rarity.

But for cabinet furniture, geometrically perfect ends wooden slabs have, one might say, critical importance. This is the quality of fit of the elements among themselves, and appearance decor and so on in general.

In what ways did our ancestors, who were more skilled in this matter, achieve this level of processing?

When working with a hacksaw, the tool itself is most important: its choice depends on the material being processed, its qualities and properties. For the now widespread chipboard, it is highly advisable to use a hacksaw with small teeth set at half the thickness of the blade. A larger spread will result in a wide cut and unwanted chips; narrow - jamming the tool in a sheet of chipboard, which leads to mild psychosis. In addition, if a hacksaw is equipped with hardened teeth, this is only a plus for it - the setting is preserved better and the sharpening is lost more slowly. It is important.

However, cutting long cuts with such a hacksaw is fraught with significant fatigue, since the small and frequent “teeth” quickly become clogged with wood dust and are no longer able to effectively perform their functions in this state. But still, at home, using a tool with exactly these parameters is most preferable. The sawing itself should be done under maximum acute angle the cutting edge of the hacksaw to the slab being cut. This is less tiring, and in addition, it gives the desired even cut.

Of the electrified devices in this area, the following are known: electric jigsaw and a miter saw.

The first is characterized by a rather riotous character when carried out uncontrollably around the workpiece. The methods for restricting his freedom are quite simple and unpretentious. This is, first of all:

• guide – smooth and straight, preferably a metal ruler, secured with clamps along the marking line. By resting the sole against it, the tool covers its distance almost perfectly, without “blockages” or chips.
• the file itself - its parameters, this is its rigidity and purpose - for a simple chipboard - with small teeth directed upwards and without setting, for wood - set large teeth, predatorily sticking out in different directions from the plane of the canvas. But you should remember about the first ones that, after about a meter of cutting, their blade will inevitably heat up, lose its qualities and “tear” to the side. Almost always this happens with 100% inevitability;
• adhesive tape pasted from the side where the teeth exit to the surface. Or better yet, both. You never know... Chips appear in these places. However, it is useful to monitor the strength of the bonding of the adhesive tape itself to the surface being treated: if it is subsequently removed, it is capable of creating characteristic flaws, even worse than a file;
• two parallel cuts with a carpenter's knife on both sides of the marking line for the entire length of the intended cut. This also saves from chipping, and is especially important for laminated chipboard sheets.

After sawing, you can refine the cut with a router or grinder However, firstly, this is due to circumstances, and secondly, too many tools are already required for a cabinet that will appear in life once and for many years.

About miter saw We can only say one thing: it is necessary.

How to cut laminated chipboard, laminated chipboard without chipping? How to repair chips after cutting?

(10+)

Please tell me how to cut laminated chipboard, laminated chipboard without chipping?

Question:

When making furniture, you have to cut laminated chipboard. Chipboard doesn't like this very much - it crumbles. Chips form along the edge. How to cut laminated chipboard without chips or repair chips?

Answer:

But if you plan to use white laminated chipboard, then this method is not suitable. You need to saw so that there are no chips. Sawing so that there are no chips is quite difficult without special equipment. A circular saw not only crumbles the edge, but can split the laminate half a meter along the slab. And any other tool gives an even worse edge.

There are rumors that laminated chipboard can be sawed without chipping with a hacksaw for metal with very small tooth, or even a jigsaw with a metal file with a very fine tooth. But it doesn't work out for me.

I cut laminated chipboard if I need to get a good edge, like this: I mark - I draw lines along which the cut will go. I place a metal ruler along the line. I secure it with clamps. Using a cutter, I cut through the laminating coating along the lines of the intended cut. The cut is made quite deep and wide (a little wider than a hacksaw or circular saw). I run the cutter along the iron ruler several times until I cut through the coating completely. I do this on both sides. It is very important to mark correctly so that the markings on top and the markings on the bottom match. After that I usually drink hand hacksaw on wood. But he had already gotten used to getting into the slot with a circular saw.

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So, I collected a sufficient amount of material and decided to write another analytical note. This time the topic is sawing laminated chipboard without chipping.

There is a fairly fair opinion that it is possible to cut laminated chipboard cleanly only on professional equipment(that is, a format-cutting machine).

The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blades, located strictly on the same axis. The first one cuts the chipboard, the second one cuts it right through.

The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there are more expensive ones))). NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE FOR AN Amateur.

This is a good way to trim incorrectly marked parts, but you can’t cut the entire cabinet this way. Chips, of course, are present, but in an amount quite comparable to the formatter (it also, secretly, leaves a small number of small chips). A lot of hassle with markings. Only straight cuts can be made.

Method 5 - Fraser

Provides the cleanest possible edge to the workpiece, the quality is no different from the formatter, often even better.

With it, we first saw the workpiece with a jigsaw, retreating 2-3 mm from the marking line, and then align the line according to the template (I usually use a second piece of laminated chipboard, sawed on a format saw, of a suitable size). must be copying, that is, with a bearing.
Very clean cut. The possibility of making curved cuts, that is, making many, including several completely identical ones. Disadvantages - a lot of hassle: the need for precise marking, preliminary filing of workpieces, setting a template or tire for the router, that is, it is not very suitable for mass use.

When you look at the price tags of furniture made from chipboard in a store, you are amazed at how expensive it is! But chipboard is one of the most available materials for designing furniture with your own hands. Fortunately, all the necessary accessories are now on sale. And furniture projects, whether on the Internet or in “paper” magazines, can now be found to suit every taste. So what's the problem? The main problem is to carefully cut the chipboard.

The most suitable household tool for cutting chipboard is a hand-held circular saw. But even with chipboard cutting with its help a number of problems arise: 1) it is very difficult to follow strictly in a straight line, the saw wobbles; 2) chips form.

Are there ways to solve these problems? Eat. We will talk about them today. By the way, all these tricks also apply to cutting plywood.

Tip 1: Cut chipboard on the floor with full support

Fully supported cutting means that when you reach the end of the saw, the cut chipboard sheet will not disappear immediately.

If you want to get a very smooth and clear cut, Chipboard is better Just cut on the floor. This way you will 100% get a solid, stable base. The chipboard will not move even if you stand on top of it to complete the cut. You will also be sure that the cut piece will not fall off, crack or fall.

Place 5x10cm pieces of wood under the chipboard sheet perpendicular to the direction of the cut. The bars will have to be sacrificed, since the saw will pass through them. The more stable your chipboard sheet lies, the neater the cut will be.

Tip 2: Adjust the cutting depth

The appropriate cutting depth affects the quality of the cut.

Adjust the depth so that no more than half the disc's teeth protrude beyond the bottom edge of the chipboard or plywood (see photo above). This may not seem important to you, but believe me, the depth of the cut greatly affects the quality of the cut. With this setting, the tooth cuts the material rather than chopping it, and also stabilizes the saw so that it vibrates less during the cutting process. Both of these factors cause saw marks to appear on chipboard cut less noticeable.

Position the saw along the edge of the chipboard, lift the fence and look closely to set the correct cutting depth. By the way, at the same time it would be good to check the saw blade for damage, because a saw with bad teeth will make a rough cut. One more point: the saw is designed so that its stroke goes in the upward direction, so chips most often form on that chipboard surfaces, which faces upward, and the cut from the side of the surface, looking downward, turns out cleaner. Therefore, when cutting chipboard, place a good, front side down.

Tip 3: For rip cuts, use a rigid, long, straight object as a guide.

As a guide for making an even straight cut, it is convenient to use a narrow long piece of chipboard, 16mm thick and about 30cm wide, which was cut professionally in a specialized workshop. All you need to do is tighten its ends with a clamp.

The main difficulty is to position it in the right place for an accurate cut. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the edge of the saw support platform to the blade (see photo below).

Add this to your cut width, mark the chipboard on both edges, and apply a guide board. You will also need to factor the thickness of the saw blade into your measurements.

It's usually best to use metal base plate circular saw rested against the edge of the guide, this ensures maximum stability of the saw during cutting.

Tip 4: Check the guide before making the cut

This is fine tuning, so to speak. Make a mark with a pencil - a line 5 cm long, thus determining the width of the part to be cut. Then start the saw, press the saw support platform against the guide and cut the chipboard. Make sure that the saw blade begins to rotate in the air before it even touches the sheet to be cut, otherwise the edge of the sheet may split. Now measure the distance from the edge of the sheet to the cut to make sure that you have done everything and calculated it correctly. It’s better, as they say, to measure seven times...

Tip 5: Cut at a constant speed without stopping

Cut without stopping and maintain a constant speed. If you stop, it will leave a mark on the chipboard or plywood.

Cutting speed depends on many factors, including the type of saw and blade sharpness, as well as the material you are cutting. In general, the sharp disc passes through a sheet of chipboard with little resistance, as if it were melting wood. If you feel like you have to force and push the saw, it means either you are sawing too fast or the blade is dull. Cutting too quickly tears the chipboard fibers and leaves noticeable marks on the cut. Too slow can cause the disc to overheat and ignite the wood.

Then you will get both marks and a burnt mark on the cut. This is why it is best to cut on the floor when you make a long cut. You can crawl on your knees right along the chipboard, following the movement of the saw, without the need to reach or bend.

Just calculate in advance whether the length of the electrical cable is enough for you.

Tip 6: Get a blade with more teeth

The more teeth on the disc, the sharper the cut will be. And, naturally, the disk must be sharp.

In principle, all the disks from the picture above are capable of making a good cut on chipboard and plywood. As we wrote above, the more teeth, the better the cut. However, the downside of the 140-tooth blade is that it becomes dull faster than the other three types. Especially if you are cutting chipboard. Take a 40 or 56 tooth disc. It's better to keep one more in reserve. A 56-tooth blade is commonly used for cutting.

Tip 7: Cross cutting is best done using duct tape.

The cross-cut runs perpendicular to the grain of the plywood, and even the sharpest blade easily leaves behind chips. This a big problem, The best decision which, buy a disc for cutting laminate, which we wrote about above. However, you can perform this task using other drives. To do this, place adhesive tape on both sides of the cut line. It will prevent the formation of chips.

You need to remove it carefully, pull it in a direction perpendicular to the cut (see photo below) so as not to damage the laminating coating of the chipboard.

And one last piece of advice. If you need to cut expensive material from the front side, cover the saw platform with adhesive tape so that it does not leave scratches on the surface of the sheet.

In general, I have already considered this in a review article, which was devoted to without the use of a format-cutting machine.

Today I decided to dwell in more detail on a method that is accessible to most DIYers - sawing with a jigsaw, since this tool is very widespread. In this lesson I used a household jigsaw Skill 4581LA, by the way, a very good machine.

For the highest quality cut, the following conditions must be met:

• the file should be fine-toothed (a metal file is optimal)
• sawing is carried out at medium speed

In addition, for a cleaner cut, we will use a modification called “scratch” sawing. Its essence lies in the fact that the laminate is scratched to its full depth and its pieces, torn out by the saw teeth, do not extend beyond the scratch boundary. For clarity, here are a few photos.

You need to scratch along the ruler (with any sharp object - I used a perk drill, or you can even use a self-tapping screw.) To prevent the ruler from moving during the scratching process, I additionally secured it with a clamp - maybe a couple.

We scratch to the full depth of the laminate, that is, until sawdust appears in the scratch.

Then we take the jigsaw and move it so that the file goes as close as possible to the edge of the scratch, without going beyond this border.

Thus, chips are formed only on the unnecessary side, without going beyond our marking line

Once again the same cut upon completion. It can be seen that minimal chips still remain, although they can also be found on professional equipment. But the evenness of the cut leaves much to be desired.

Of course, there are unique people who can cut quite smoothly with a jigsaw. I'm not one of those people. Of course, the class of the tool itself also plays a significant role. As a rule, the file of inexpensive tools is not as stable as in professional models. Due to this, it is pulled towards the sawing.

In general, this method has a right to exist, but I would not recommend putting it on stream.