Planing a wide board with an electric planer: basic rules. Planing a wide board with an electric planer: basic rules How to properly fix the material when planing

Planing with an electric planer is a fairly easy process if there is at least some minimal knowledge. But things are different if you need to process a very wide board.

After all, not everyone can do it efficiently, but it is necessary that the layer be removed evenly from the surface of the board, and the processing boundaries were not visible.

Instructions for planing with an electric planer

Before using a wide board with an electric planer, first experiment on a piece that you do not need.

Note that the electric planer can operate in two modes: stationary and manual.
If you use the stationary mode, then the board is passed through the knives of the electric planer.

Manual mode requires a special setting of the electric planer. First you need to adjust the cutting depth of the knives. Usually they set 0.1-0.4 cm. The smaller the depth of planing, the better the processing of the material will be, and you will practically not notice the boundaries between the passes. If it is necessary to perform deep planing of the board, then first set the maximum cutting depth of the knives, make the first pass, and then reconfigure the knives for better planing.

When you work with an electric planer a couple of times, you will learn how to choose the right depth of cut, and the work process will noticeably speed up.

We process wood: what you need to know?

Before processing lumber, you need to determine the direction in which you will be planing. Usually planed in the direction of the wood fibers. If the lumber is made from several boards, then you need to plan diagonally.

So that the edge of the board does not turn out to be uneven, you need to use an angular stop, which is attached to the base of the electric planer on the side and is perpendicular to its axis.

When you have finished planing a wide board, you will need to align the boundaries between the passes. This stage is called cycling. For this, a special grinder is used, which will remove all roughness.

There are many planers and planers for planing boards. However, if the board is quite wide, more than 200mm, then it is rather problematic to cut it evenly, along the plane, since one side of the board is convex, and the other with curved edges.

In this case, it is better to use different planing methods. The first way is to walk not with a wide electric planer, through protruding places. This is done in order to evenly carry out planing and prevent the plane of the board from skewing to one of its edges.

At the same time, strict protruding edges, it is necessary, with a small planing thickness, to go through the same number of times on one and the other side. In conclusion, we plan the board on a wide planer. If there is no planer, then on the electric planer, special knives with rounded ends are installed so that there is a protrusion between narrow passages, since the width of the planer during planing is less than the board.

If you have big machine, then in order to avoid distortions when planing an uneven board, convex on one side, chips are poured onto the frame, after which the board is rubbed and lies flat during planing. Such a simple technique allows you to avoid skew when planing.

The clamping device that many planers are equipped with should not be neglected, as they not only press the board, but also press it evenly. Upon reaching flat surface boards, the main thing is well-sharpened and adjusted knives, plus a thin layer of planing.

If planer you have narrower than the board being processed, then the board should be planed in one pass, then on one side, then on the other. Thus. You will achieve a flat surface of a wide board.

Performing work with an electric planer is not a very difficult task if you have minimal skills in working with it. But it will be somewhat more difficult to plan a wide board with an electric planer. Qualitatively such work can not be performed by every specialist. This is due to the difficulty of removing a uniform layer between the processing boundaries.

Performance of work: instructions

In order to achieve high-quality processing of the board, before that, it is necessary to initially do a trial processing on lumber waste. At the same time, the planer can be used in different modes of operation: it is manual mode and stationary. The stationary mode consists in passing the workpiece through the rotating blade part of the planer.

In order to perform work using manual mode, before starting the process, it is necessary to set up the tool. not much different from setting up a conventional hand planer. To do this, you need to adjust the depth of cut of its knives. Most often, this size is 1-4 mm. When making adjustments, it is necessary to take into account the fact that a smaller depth of planing of the material will improve the quality of its processing.

Moreover, setting the knife to a shallow cutting depth will allow it to move more easily over the workpiece. In this case, you need to press on the tool at the edge of the passage and round off the back edge of the edge (which will help avoid injury).

The less the rotating knife protrudes beyond the sole of the planer, the smaller the layer of wood it will remove, therefore the boundaries between different passes will be less noticeable.

In the case when deep processing of the material is necessary, then during the first pass the planer knives are adjusted to the maximum depth of processing. And then they are reconfigured and perform a more accurate final planing.

Over time, you can learn how to properly complete the pass on the back edge of the material and select the correct planing depth. This will help speed up the process of work and do it not in 8-10 passes, but in 4-5.

In order to correctly set the knives, which depends on the difference in the upper marks between the front and rear ends of the planer, it must be done using a metal ruler.

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Proper wood processing

When using an electric planer, it is necessary to choose the direction of material processing correctly.

It is usually accepted to take it along the direction of the fibers on the wood. But in the case when workpieces are processed, which are assembled from several boards or bars, having large protrusions at the joints, then processing can be carried out in a diagonal direction. The knives of the electric planer rotate at a fairly high speed and therefore allow you to perform such a procedure. Of course, ordinary hand tool it won't work that way.

In order for the processed edge not to turn out during oblique processing, it is necessary to apply an angular stop, and not rely only on individual skill and eye. It must be attached to the side of the instrument to its base, in a strictly perpendicular position relative to its axis. Now, to plan, you need to attach the planer tightly to the plane of the board, and its base should be located exactly at an angle of 90 degrees.

The angle stop must be very firmly fastened, because during long work its fastening screws may loosen, resulting in tarry working surface plane. If this still happened, then you need to wipe it with white spirit.

To avoid chips on the edges of the board, they need to be slightly dulled. This is done by chamfering. The same procedure must be performed on the parts, which will then be varnished. This will help create a smooth transition line between the two surfaces.

Having completed the processing of a wide board, you can resort to the procedure for cycling it. Cycling is the process of aligning seams between different passes on a board. It is performed using a special machine. Processing such as scraping must also be performed in the direction of the board fibers. Its use will remove all unnecessary roughness.

An electric planer is an essential tool for anyone working with wood, and when building or renovating, it can become indispensable assistant. At home home master, as a rule, a traditional hand planer is sufficient, but in a private courtyard or suburban area there is plenty of woodwork. Baths, outbuildings, fences, benches and other furniture - the list goes on and on.

An electric planer will save the master a lot of time and effort and will allow you to achieve good results. An electric planer brings the workpieces to the right sizes, level surfaces, remove notches, burrs and knots, cut edges, select grooves. The planer, of course, cannot afford the “fine” surface treatment to perfect smoothness; this will require additional tools. But with its main task - roughing wood in large volumes - an electric planer, subject to the rules of operation, copes perfectly.

As with choosing any power tool, when choosing an electric planer, the master should start from the main tasks in which the tool will be most often involved. Important role plays the power of the tool, which is directly related to its performance. A planer of greater power cuts "deeper", that is, they can remove a thicker layer of wood in one pass. Manual electric planers are produced with a power in the range of 0.5 - 2.2 kW. Above one and a half kilowatts - already, in fact, a professional tool for large-scale work. If you plan to use the planer often and in large volumes, it makes sense to look at more powerful models. But, as always, the rule applies: more powerful tool, the more it weighs and the higher its price. With a small power planer it will be convenient to work on weight. Medium power models weigh between 2.5-4 kg.

Another indicator is the frequency of rotation of the drum, that is, the number of revolutions that it makes per unit of time. This value is very important to consider when choosing a planer, the user believes. wind1wind: The higher the number of revolutions, the better the quality of the cut. The best option, which should be guided by when choosing - 15000-16000 rpm.

wind1wind:

– Planer does not absolutely flat surface, but a "wave" with a very small step. To make this waviness invisible, they increase the number of revolutions of the shaft and the number of knives on the shaft. These two parameters are very important when choosing.

Width planing depends on the width of the cutting edge of the knives. The most "traveling" sizes of knives for household electric planes are 82, 102 and 110 mm. The higher the planing width, the fewer passes will be required to complete the surface.

To simply process the board to a smooth surface, a planer with knives is enough, narrower than the board. But if the width of the knife does not overlap the width of the material being processed, a perfectly flat surface will not work - at least the minimum "step" will remain.

Depth cut is, in fact, the thickness of the layer of wood removed by the planer in one pass. In household planers, it usually does not exceed 2 mm, in more powerful ones - 4 mm. Most models have depth adjustment.

IN electric planes Removable knives made of hard alloys and hardened steel are used. Most of them, even carbide ones, can be sharpened and straightened, but narrow knives cannot be sharpened: their design does not imply sharpening. Certain planer models come with a sharpening tool. You can make it with your own hands.

Olegych:

- To edit knives, you need thicker glass and a couple of sheets of good sandpaper. We soak the paper in water, sculpt it on glass - and go! But this is exclusively for dressing, knives “earned” on nails and bricks - only on the machine.

Sole the planer in contact with the surface to be treated must be even and smooth. At modern models planers, barely noticeable grooves are made on its surface - grooves that prevent the formation of “ air cushion» between the sole and the material, thus ensuring a uniform cut. The grooves on the front of the sole are designed for chamfering the corners of the parts. When choosing a planer, you should pay close attention to the quality of the surface of the sole, especially when it comes to inexpensive models.

– A defect found in non-brand planers is the so-called “drunken sole”. We check this way: we set the adjustment of the removal to zero, the knife is brought to the upper position. We apply a ruler along the length of the planer, alternately from two sides, so that it lies on both platforms at once. There should be no gaps between the ruler and the sole.

When choosing an electric planer, it is important to hold the tool in your hands, to understand whether the tool handles, start and adjustment buttons are conveniently located for you, whether its weight suits you. Modern electric planers have many additional options and parameters that facilitate and improve the work process. But all of them, of course, increase the cost of the tool. Among the most popular options is a directional chip ejection with the possibility of connecting a bag for collecting it or a vacuum cleaner, the “ soft start» and speed control. It all depends on the requests of the master and his financial capabilities.

A useful accessory is a universal ruler that allows you to evenly process a surface wider than the planing width of the planer in one pass, as well as planing at an angle of 90 degrees to the supporting surface. Often such rulers come with a planer, but if not, it makes sense to purchase it separately.

The basic work performed by an electric planer is easy for a beginner to master, and if you follow simple rules, then the tool will serve for a long time and efficiently. Planing should be started only after the drum of the included planer has fully gained momentum. And you should not immediately set the maximum planing depth: it is better to remove a millimeter twice than to try to remove two millimeters at a time. It is not necessary to put pressure on the tool with effort: it should only be directed, and the plane should be planed by itself, “like clockwork”. And for this, the knives must be sharp.

It is not so easy for craftsmen starting to work with an electric planer to determine when sharpening or replacing a knife is necessary. forum member Nomad advises to use visual methods. If the knives are sharp, the surface is smooth. If they are blunt, rags of wood form on it, since the knives no longer cut, but tear it. Another sign of dull knives is brown high temperature wood, especially in the area of ​​​​knots.

Aleksej2000:

- Even with blunt knives, the planer begins to vibrate on the knots, as if bouncing small: the knife does not cut and repels from dense material. The best thing is to put new knives in and try how they take. And then the feeling of sharp knives will be familiar. And with the same sharp knives, try to walk along the knot in order to see the difference.

A common problem faced by novice craftsmen is the displacement of the processed material under the planer. Although a planer is one of the safest tools, there is still a risk of injury when holding wood with your hand. The problem is solved by making a simple board retainer and a planer lateral displacement limiter - as advised by a forum user wind1wind:

- Fasten two pieces of wood at least as long as the boards to be processed along the width of the sole of the planer on the workbench. The sole of the planer should pass between them with a minimum gap, but without difficulty. A piece of rail is attached to one end, into which the board will rest. Additionally, the board between the blocks can be fixed with a wooden wedge.

For this design to work properly, the end stop of the rail and wedges should be slightly thinner than the planed board, the forum member advises. The blocks should, on the contrary, be thicker than the processed board by about 1/2-2/3 of the thickness of the planer sole. Then they will prevent the lateral displacement of the planer during operation. On the other hand, the planer will not touch the bars with protruding parts of its structure (belt guard, engine).

Features of the choice of electric planers, advantages and disadvantages specific models forum users discuss in. you can read the recommendations and get advice about correct work electric planer. Members of the forum exchange experience in replacing, sharpening and straightening knives for planers at. On the repair of planers, milling cutters and circular saws look for information. This video tells about the basics of working with an electric planer.

The process of sharpening a board requires responsibility, care and precision.

IN this material we will talk about how to plan a wide board, and in general about the process of sharpening. Its main task is to obtain a perfectly flat plane without height differences. Also, this stage is preparatory to the aesthetic processing of wood. Only after sharpening can you polish the board and cover it with special decorating compounds or varnish. A similar procedure is performed in several ways, and the following table will give you an approximate description of these processes.

How to plan a board with an electric planer

An electric planer is a tool that greatly simplifies the process of sharpening

Let's move on to how to plan a wide board with an electric planer. This task is not an easy one, although, of course, it is easier than ordinary work. hand planer. The fact is that the uniformity of the sharpening depends on you, which is regulated by the force of pressure on the device. In this case, the effort should be with a constant identical effort. Otherwise, the surface that you plan will turn out to be inhomogeneous. This is especially true for wide boards, where you need to pass the planer in several lines. The first run is sighting, it will set the surface removal depth for all other runs. Now about how to properly plan the boards with an electric planer. As we have already said, the uniformity of pressure on the surface and the constancy of the applied efforts are very important. In addition, it is important to guide the planer in a straight path, without moving to the side. Preliminary markup can help with this or laser level. Well, it is also very important to properly position the board. It should lie on a perfectly flat surface, then the result will be maximum. By the way, there is a more advanced version of the electric planer - a thicknesser, with its help the process of controlling the evenness of the guard becomes easier.