Joiner's tool is small. Malka: an indispensable assistant in construction. What is a small

When performing construction or carpentry work, there is often a need to measure angles. For such purposes, a tool called a malka was invented. In the construction industry, this device allows you to speed up and facilitate the work, achieving excellent results as a result. We will learn more about how to use the small scale correctly, as well as the features of measuring angles.

The main purpose of the bevel is to measure the existing angle with its subsequent transfer to the workpiece or a more accurate measuring device. Malki are very popular when installing window sills. With this tool, the slope angle is measured, after which it is transferred directly to the workpiece, which allows you to cut the required size as accurately as possible.

Adjustable bevel is also used to determine the "angle of dawn" during the installation of window slopes. Initially, the device was used in carpentry workshops, but over time it gained wide popularity in construction. Why the tool in question is needed, not every builder knows, and some even hear about this for the first time. This is not surprising, since this tool is used only when it is necessary to measure degrees. oblique angle. Malka allows you to measure angles from 0 to 180 degrees. This tool is an ordinary locksmith square, which has a right angle. To measure angles using the tool in question, the device has a movable part, which determines the required size.

Malki are also called goniometers, which today are various kinds, shapes and sizes. Protractors with a size of 300 mm are popular, which allows you to measure various lengths of angles. Goniometers are also made of wood, plastic or metal. You can measure angles with a protractor, but this is very inconvenient and time consuming. IN Lately an electronic goniometer appeared, which allows you to measure the accuracy of the angle up to 1 mm.

Malka do-it-yourself goniometer

Sometimes there is a need to use a goniometer, but it is not at hand. It can and even needs to be purchased, but if one-time work is performed, then the tool in question is quite realistic to make on your own. For the manufacture will require the following materials:

A wooden block, which will be a block or a fixed ruler. If plywood or plastic is used, then with a thin part of the tool.
A piece of plywood or plastic, and it is best to use an old piece of wood, should not exceed 3 mm. These materials will play the role of a moving element.
To connect these two materials, you will need to drill holes in them, and then connect them together using a bolted connection with a “lamb”.

Marks of 20-40 mm are made on a sheet of plywood or plastic. If a ruler is used, then there is already a markup on it. After that, you will need to combine the prepared materials, resulting in a homemade goniometer. The video below shows how to make a malka with your own hands in the simplest way.

How to use Malka: a step-by-step diagram

The fact that you can use a malka in work is far from known by many masters. In this context, there is not just a transfer of an indirect angle to the workpiece, but a direct calculation of the conjugation of two connected elements. Consider the features of the application of the tool in question on the example of window slopes.

With the help of a bevel, you can perform the correct plastering based on standards. step by step diagram The correct use of the tool is as follows:

The "angle of dawn" is selected . We determine the bevel under which the plastering will be carried out.
We note the "angle of dawn". To do this, we take a goniometer in our hands, after which we proceed to measurements. The fixed part of the bevel is applied to the edge of the window frame, and the movable part determines the angle from the edge of the window opening from the side of the wall. To fix the obtained value, it is necessary to screw the “lamb” on the tool. From the side of the wall, we fix the result obtained directly at the upper and lower points.
Slope alignment. To make the angles for the slopes perfect, you simply need to install a rail or plank to the wall along the perimeter of the window. The goniometer determines the location of the edge of the rail, after which we fix it with self-tapping screws. The rail must be checked using the building level, as it must have a strictly vertical arrangement.
Application of mortar and sealing of slopes. A solution is applied to the slopes with a margin, and with the help of the rule, the excess is removed. In order for the slope to receive the direction of the corner, you need to set the rule with the edge to the window frame, and then draw it along the slope from the bottom up. The rule will remove excess mortar and also level the surface.
Finishing is the addition of a final layer of plaster mortar (if needed) to complete the slope leveling. It is not advisable to close the slopes with large layers of plaster, since it will simply “float” before it dries. Fine finishing also involves the use of a goniometer, with which the check is carried out.

On the example of window slopes, the use of a goniometer was considered. It is not so important which small one you used to align the angles of the slopes. The main thing is that the master uses a malka to do these actions, and also knows how to use it correctly.

Once, about 20 years ago, we conducted a small experiment by asking graduate students of a vocational school in the specialty "carpenter" what a malka is. The correct answer was given by less than 10% without 5 minutes of carpentry professionals. Meanwhile, a small goniometer is, first of all, carpentry tool, although both locksmiths and builders use it.

Although the plasterers called the small device, which was a short lath with a cutout, which serves to make a uniform angle of slopes around windows and doors.

That's what it's called. But most of them have never even heard of the instrument that gave the name to this simple template. Some of the people who are clearly intelligent called the malka a status instrument. Apparently because it is used by people quite experienced in the profession. Meanwhile, this technically uncomplicated and very easy-to-manufacture assistant can greatly facilitate the performance of a number of tasks both in the home workshop and on the construction site.

The design and purpose of the small

The usual, simplest malka consists of two elements:

pads - a fairly wide bar with a slot;
pen - a thin rail, which, when assembled, hides in the slot of the block.

These elements are interconnected by a screw pair. Here the design of the screw pair can be completely different, but there are two fundamental differences: the screw can be protruding, and then, most often, instead of the usual nut, a lamb is used to easily fix the relative position of the block and the pen, or it can be recessed.

The latter option is more convenient for installing bevels in the right place, but less practical for fixing given angles and, as a rule, is more technically complicated.

Sometimes, but rarely, on the pen, even less often - dimensional risks are applied on the block. But Malka is not a measuring tool, but a marking one. Its task is to fix the size and transfer it to the workpiece, or to the workpiece, when replicating the same products.
Although, the desire of many manufacturers for universal unification has led to the creation of digital small cars equipped with liquid crystal displays. With memory, zeroing the result in a given position and other attributes of modern digital instruments, but from the small scale, such devices have only a common construct, but functionally they are, rather, goniometers.

digital bean

They just don’t try to mount it in the malka - yes, at least a level bubble, which is generally poorly combined with the list of basic work performed using the malka.

The mechanical improvements of the malka are also trying to catch up with digital sophistication, supposedly expanding the functionality of the tool.

In our opinion, out of all this abundance of technical solutions, the device of a groove in the pen is more or less useful, allowing you to vary its length, which in rare cases, but still, can be useful. And we will confirm our, for many ambiguous, conclusions with examples of works where the baby is really irreplaceable.

How to use small?

If we are talking about the pure transfer of the angle to the workpiece, then there is nothing to describe here: set the angle given by the template or sample, or the drawing (possibly scaled), fix the relative position of the pen and the block and transfer it where necessary. At the same time, it is absolutely indifferent to us what is the value of this angle in degrees, radians or segments of any value.
But, if you need to calculate the angle of conjugation of two connected elements, when it is different from a straight line, or a pair or three others present on some kind of miter box, then perhaps you can’t do without a malka. Consider an advertising picture of one of the digital bells.

The tool showed the angle of the wall bevel up to tenths, but even 1/10 did not bring us closer to the practical solution of the problem of precisely joining the plinth segments in such a strongly “wrong” angle. It is clear that by dividing 135.4 ° by 2, we will get the value of the angle at which the skirting boards should be cut, but to mark them accurately and then cut them off is not an easy task. With the help of Malka, these issues are solved as easy as shelling pears:

Set the bevel in the corner, firmly pressing the block and the pen against both walls, fix the turn of the corner.
Transfer the resulting angle to a piece of paper, drawing it with a pencil or pen.
Cut out the resulting angle, although you can simply bend the sheet along the drawn lines.
Bend the resulting segment in half from the corner.
Expose the plinth by aligning its back with one of the sides, and the end with the top of the corner.
Combine cutting tool with the second angle beam and cut. If there is any doubt about the verticality of the cut, substitute a block with an exact right angle from behind and cut along its edge.

The video shows a slightly more complicated way of transferring the angle taken from the drawing to scale.

But its relative complexity lies in observing the utmost accuracy, because even minor deviations along the total length of the structure can result in decent linear dimensional deviations. What can we say about such metal-plastic window systems which are shown in the photo. If memory serves, their dimensions are: 5000 x 4000 x 3500 or so.

Can you imagine the consequences of an error in cutting off the corners of the welding of the upper bevel of the structure? But everything was marked out with the help of a malka impeccably accurately. On a flat floor in the workshop, a rectangle of 5000 ? 3500 with a diagonal check, then one of the sides is extended to 4 meters and this point is connected to the second upper corner. Further - everything is as described in the example with the plinth, only the necessary values \u200b\u200bfor welding are added to the nominal dimensions.
For some types of work, special bevels are created - double. They serve to transfer the turn angles of the bay window and similar tasks.

There is confidence that after what has been described above, there is no special need to explain in detail how such a tool works. It is only necessary to emphasize that the grooves in the node, which replaces the block common to both feathers, allow you to expand the bevel in width, increasing its functionality.
It is also obvious that this is a homemade malka, and its design is greatly simplified, even in comparison with the simplest industrially produced one. But she does her job no worse than the factory one, it’s just not very good to deal with such people. durable structures need to be more careful. But to make an even more structurally complex malka for a person who knows how to use a simple carpentry tool is not a problem.

We make a small one with our own hands

And here, first of all, you should seriously approach the choice of wood. It must be dry and free from knots, regardless of breed. And it is better to take the breed hard enough: oak, ash, etc. Such a tool will last much longer, and the markup produced with its help is more accurate.

Self-made Malka

We intentionally took a video with an example of making a malka from the simplest, practically waste materials and improvised means, so that you can see how simple this process is. But what additional functions from those offered by both the do-it-yourselfer from the video, and industrially produced copies to give to your little one - decide for yourself, you know our opinion.

Dear readers, if you still have questions, ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you;)

Of course, plastering slopes is a job that requires qualifications and experience. And it is better to take it when you have learned the basics of plastering simple surfaces, walls and ceilings.

so for those who is not afraid of difficulties, our article is plastering slopes with your own hands.

Tool

Every business needs a tool. Window trim is no exception. The tool kit will depend on what materials you are using.

In any case, you will need:

good level;
aluminum rule;
pencil;
malka;
roulette;
spatula 5 cm;
plywood or metal bevel;
Master OK;
solution container;
water container;
pick hammer.

A level that is too long will not work. It may simply not fit between the jumper and the window sill. At the same time, short work is inconvenient. Choose the golden mean, it will be a level 1 meter long. For auxiliary work, a sealant gun and a knife are useful.

You may also need a balloon with mounting foam to “blow out” the gaps between window frame and the opening in which it is installed.

If you use cement-based, you need to get a grater and a grater. If with a rotband, a large and small trowel, as well as a 45 cm spatula and a sponge grater.

Overalls and work shoes should be comfortable and not interfere with movement. Since the plasterer's hands are in direct contact with the mortar, it is best to get waterproof nitrile gloves.

If you seriously decide to master such a thing as the technology of plastering slopes, take it for a while or put together a normal plaster goat from the boards yourself. Work will go more fun, and it's safer. Plastering from a stepladder or from a stool - bad idea. It is very inconvenient and takes about twice as long.

construction goat

Sequence of work

Surface preparation

Before plastering the slopes on the windows, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work.

Both the convenience of further work and the durability of the finished finish will depend on their quality.

It is advisable to install the window sill before starting plastering works. This will make it possible subsequently not to close the gaps between it and the side slopes, as well as to increase the strength of the installation.

It is recommended to securely protect it from mechanical damage and the possible ingress of the solution by laying a thick layer of paper on top or laying unnecessary pieces of drywall that are suitable in size, if any are left after the ceilings or walls.

If on window opening there are remains of old plaster, paint or other contamination, they should be removed. The solution should lie on a solid, and not on dirt and dust.
It is also better to close the window block with a film. In a single production, you can get by with a film by gluing it to the window with pieces of masking tape. Handles, radiators and other fittings should also be protected by wrapping them in paper.
After cleaning, cut off the excess foam with a knife.
To improve adhesion (increase the setting of the applied solution with the base), prime the surface with a deep penetration primer. Her choice depends on building material from which the window opening is made.
Then carry out a vapor barrier. WITH inside foam walls must be sealed with a special vapor barrier film or a layer of silicone frost-resistant sealant should be applied to it.

Advice! The sealant must be applied to a dry surface, the excess should be removed immediately.

Note! If you do not make a vapor barrier of the foam seal on the inside, over time the foam can get wet from condensate and lose its heat-shielding properties, windows and slopes will start to sweat, and a draft will draw from under the frames.

A few words about small

Next, you should make a little. Malka is a template according to which plaster is made. If you look closely at the slopes, they are not just straight, but expand slightly inward, forming a window dawn.

It is usually made from a piece of plywood. It is a narrow plywood, slightly longer than the slope by 5-10 cm, about 15 cm wide. One side has a cutout, in the process of work it will move along the slope. The second - according to the established lighthouse.

Thanks to such a device, after removing the small applied solution, the slope will be even. It is also necessary to make another cutout through which the window hinges will pass.

It is advisable to slightly remove the “chamfer” (round off with a file) so that the plywood does not chip during operation.

Professionals use metal bevels made of aluminum, which are made to order. In principle, you can do without it, but no one guarantees that the slope angle will be the same everywhere.

The temperature in the room should not be lower than +5 ˚С for cement mortar or + 10˚С - for a rotband.

Do not try to prepare a large volume of the mixture at once. This is especially true for, which requires a fairly fast work technique.

Before plastering slopes, it is necessary to calculate the amount of mortar. Its volume is determined based on the slope area and the thickness of the future plaster layer.

The plastering of the slopes is carried out according to the same rules as the plastering of an ordinary wall with an angle, only the dawn of the window is done according to the bevel.

This is done as follows:

The finish is similar. Before starting it, it is recommended to install a perforated angle at the corners in order to protect the edge from mechanical damage.

If you have plastic windows

When the slope has already been completed, but the mortar has not yet dried, it is necessary to cut a groove between the slope and the frame with a width of 3-5 mm with a spatula, and then fill it silicone sealant. The cured silicone forms a protective gasket.

The fact is that plastic windows(especially from PVC profiles not himself best quality) Under the influence sunlight expand greatly. At the same time, they can expand so much that cracks will appear at the place of their junction with the slope. Silicone is a very flexible material and will not allow this.

Summing up

We hope our article was useful to you. In order to more accurately understand the technological and practical issue, our website contains a detailed photo and video instruction, in which you will find useful information on this issue.

Finishing slopes always causes some difficulties, even for experienced craftsmen, not to mention the amateurs who undertook to do home repairs on their own. It is quite possible to achieve perfectly even slopes with the same angles if you know some professional tricks. To define angles other than 90 degrees, use special device, which is called a goniometer . It will significantly speed up and facilitate the work, helping to achieve excellent results without extra effort. Using it, you don't have to think about how to measure the angle and how to transfer it to the workpiece.

Tool device

Most often, a goniometer is used in carpentry, but it can also be found in other areas of repair and decoration. Outwardly, the device is similar to, however, the malka has a moving part, thanks to which you can conveniently take readings.

The tool in question has the following components:

Block with a slot. This is the main part of the protractor, which allows you to find out the slope of the angle.
Movable pen. It is threaded through the groove that is in the block: this saves space and makes the device more convenient to use.
The lamb serving for fixing of the tool.

On sale you can find both metal and wooden devices. wooden version safer for surfaces and does not leave scratches.

How to use a goniometer?

With the help of a bevel, you can measure an angle from 0 to 180 degrees. This is done in the following way:

To get started, you need to select the angle that you are going to measure.
The device is fixed with a lamb in the desired position.
The data obtained can be transferred to a part or paper by simply attaching a goniometer to it and making marks with a pencil.
After that, you can cut the part.

This way of working allows you to transfer data to a wooden object much faster and cut it evenly at the right angle.

Malka-goniometer do it yourself

Malka-goniometer - quite available tool, which can be bought in almost any hardware store, however, the master does not always have time for this, and the device may be required urgently. In this case, you can do it yourself. This will require:

A block of wood from which the block will be made. A small piece up to 30 mm will do.
A piece of plywood, the thickness of which should be more than 3 mm. It is better not to take plywood thicker than 5 mm. The moving part of the device is made of this material.
A bolt and nut can be used as fasteners.
Using a drill, you need to drill a hole for the bolt.

You need to start assembling the goniometer with a block. To do this, measure 10 cm on the workpiece and saw off desired length. After that, you can proceed to making a slot for the pen, for which you will need to cut the block from the end.

The pen of the instrument is made of plywood, and if it is not available, then you can use a material similar in size - for example, a sheet of plastic. Marks of 20-40 mm are made on the sheet: these will be the dimensions of the pen itself. They can be changed at your discretion.
If you did everything correctly, then the pen and the notch in the bar, when added, will form sharp corner. Parts are fastened with a bolt at an angle of 90 degrees; The pen must be able to move. The excess needs to be cut and cleaned.

We make slopes without problems

Most often, a bevel goniometer is used when arranging window and door slopes. With this tool, you can achieve not only even corners, but also properly plaster the surface.

It is important that the corners have correct angle dawn and were symmetrical with respect to each other. It is almost impossible to achieve this by eye: the difference between the slopes is immediately evident.

How to get even slope angles? First of all, you need to prepare the walls for work. To do this, they are plastered, removing all visible irregularities. The areas of future slopes are cleaned of dirt and dust and primed. If there are marks on the window polyurethane foam, its protruding parts are cut off.

Then you should choose the correct angle of dawn. To do this, it is necessary to decide with what slope the plaster will be applied. This can be done using a goniometer. Its block must be placed on the edge of the window frame. The angle is determined with a pen; this is done from the side of the walls. After that, the result is fixed, and the remaining angles are checked with a small scale. If there is a mismatch, another indicator is selected on the device, or excess plaster is knocked out.

In order for the slopes to become the same, their angles must be aligned. Plasterers usually don't level plaster near windows and it looks ragged. Before starting work, it is necessary to align these corners. To do this, you can install a level rail on the wall. Then set desired angle and the solution is applied already at this angle.

Before plaster is applied to the slopes, it is necessary to fix the slats on the walls. This can be done with nails or self-tapping screws, depending on what material the walls are made of. After the rails are removed, the holes formed from the fasteners can be puttied.

On the slope, the mixture must be applied in excess. In order for the plaster not to fall off and lay flat, it is applied at an angle; you need to work from the center to the corner. Malka-goniometer will be required in order to remove excess plaster from the slopes. With the help of the same tool, the corner is given the desired direction: for this, the block must be moved to the window frame. You need to draw a block along the frame, directing it from top to bottom. With the help of a pen, the goniometer levels the surface and removes excess plaster from it. Sometimes pits appear in the process of work. Getting rid of them is easy: just put more mixture on the recess. The excess can also be removed with a small one.

The final stage of the withdrawal of slopes is fine finish. For slopes, the normal thickness of the plaster layer is 5 mm. If an inexperienced master worked, the layer can be much thicker. In this situation, you usually want to immediately level the slope, but you should not rush into this, since the plaster solution has a large mass and falls off with inaccurate exposure. In order not to have to do all the work again and correct the mistakes made, it is better to give the plaster the opportunity to grab a little in the form that already exists.

You have to wait about a day. After the plaster has set, you will need to use a special grater for stripping. This tool will remove all the crumbs and indentations that appeared on the slopes while working with them. If desired, the surface can be made perfectly flat, but you need to work with caution: some craftsmen remove too much plaster and make deep depressions that have to be repaired.

The manual sanding method is quite dusty, so it is better to use a protective bandage. Using this method, the master does not have to resort to the use of additional tools or materials, and the dawn angles will be the same.

The need to measure the angle when conducting repair work occurs almost constantly. For these purposes, there is a very convenient measuring device - malka, it is about him that we want to tell you today.

Malka is a goniometer that is capable of much

Let's immediately consider the tasks for which this measuring device is intended. As a rule, the main purpose of such a device is to measure the degrees of an existing angle and then transfer it to a workpiece or an accurate measuring device. It is especially convenient and useful when installing window sills: by measuring the exact slope angle, you can easily transfer the markings to the workpiece and cut the corners quite accurately, and carry out further installation.

Also used to calculate the "dawn angle" when arranging window slopes. Initially, the device was used to work with wood, but later migrated to other areas. construction works. Visually, this tool is very similar to a regular locksmith square with a right angle. But according to its specifics, a bevel is a goniometer, and in order to be able to measure angles, the tool has a movable part, which determines the directly given angle, both acute and deployed.

The block is the basis of the entire instrument. On a regular square, this is its lower part; on both tools, the block performs the same role. Only here on the malka the block has a slot into which the other part of the tool is hidden.
The pen is the moving part of the instrument. The groove in the last allows the tool to be folded, so it takes up very little space and is easy to use for the craftsman.
The fastener is usually made in the form of a wing nut. Allows you to fix the moving part and make accurate measurements.

It should be noted that this measuring device can be made as wooden version, as well as in metal. Wooden bevel is usually used where there is a fear of damaging the surface, the tree does not leave scratches when measured.

Malka - a tool that will help measure the desired angle

When you first encounter a new device, the question cannot be avoided: what is it and how to use it? As already mentioned, this device helps to measure angles, and let's note an angle of forty-five degrees as an example. We take such figures for a reason, but we mean cutting wood at the most popular angle. You can also choose any other value that interests you. Technically malka is the tool that is able to measure the angle from zero to one hundred and eighty degrees. So, let's start measuring.

To begin with, you can find the angle we need already in ready-made and make a freeze. You can also set the angle on a special device at the degree you need.
Next, fix the result with a fixing bolt, preferably as tightly as possible.
After the resulting angle is applied to the part and draw a line with a pencil.
Cut with a hacksaw on wood or electric jigsaw marking angle.

This example assumes markup wooden board or markup door frame. This method will be much faster than marking with a regular square.

How to make Malka at home?

Of course, today essential tool, in our case, a malka can be bought at a hardware store. But sometimes situations arise when the device is needed now, and there is no time for this, or it is simply not available for sale. the right tool. Let's try to figure out how to make a malka with your own hands from improvised means. And here is what we need from the materials for these purposes:

Wooden beam measuring 20 by 30 mm. From it we will make a block.
Plywood with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm, it will be the moving part of the tool, the pen.
Fastener in the form of a nut and bolt.
and a drill corresponding to the diameter of the fastener.

Having prepared all the components of the future instrument, you can begin to assemble it. First of all, let's start making the block. We measure from wooden block 10 centimeters, more is possible, but you should not exceed the length of 15 centimeters. Cut off with a hacksaw right size future block. The next step in the manufacture of the tool will be the device slot for the pen. To do this, we make an incision on one side of the end base of the block, and for now we set the block aside.

Now let's move on to making a feather, which can be cut out of plywood or other suitable material. We mark the future dimensions of the element on plywood, the width of the pen is 20-30 mm, the length can reach 300-400 mm. Advice! All dimensions shown in this example are subject to change at your own discretion.. In the process of making a malka, you can increase the length of the block and feather, the main thing is that it is convenient for you to work with the tool you have made. The pen is ready, and now it can be more accurately adjusted in the block.

Check again the incision at the end of the bar, the pen should form an acute angle when trying to fold the tool, although, of course, this is not necessary in all cases. When everything is ready, you need to install the fasteners in place, for this, match the parts at an angle of 90 degrees and drill a hole through with a drill. Then insert the bolt and clamp the parts together with the nut. Theoretically, our tool is ready, it remains to modify the pen a little. Move it in the block, and additionally process the protruding corners. The extra ones should be removed and the cut points processed sandpaper.

How to use small on the example of a slope device

Now let's test the Malka you made under working conditions, and it will be tested on the device of window slopes. Our tool will help you to carry out the correct plastering based on existing standards. As is known, window slopes have a certain angle, the builders call it "dawn angle". But according to the rules, all angles must be the same and symmetrical, if you do not follow these rules, then different slopes will be visible to the naked eye. Here is an instruction on how to use a bevel to get uniform angles.

How to use a malka - a step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Preparing the walls and window opening

All walls of the room in which you plan to make slopes must be completely plastered. As a rule, on window openings plaster finishes. The slopes themselves must be prepared, cleaned of dust and treated with soil. Also, if the window was installed using mounting foam, the protruding excess must first be removed with a knife.

Step 2: Choose "Dawn Angle"

Now we need, first of all, to decide on the angle at which it will be carried out. To do this, we install the bevel block along the edge of the window frame and, by moving the pen, determine the angle along the edge of the window opening from the side of the wall. We fix the result obtained on the malka and check the correspondence along the perimeter of the window opening. If during the check the selected angle does not match the selected value, it is necessary to trim the plaster from the side of the wall or change the angle on the bevel.

Step 3: Leveling the slope

Usually, on the window opening, the plaster ends in a chaotic manner, even corners are removed while working with slopes. In order to make the ideal slope angles, you just need to install the rail on the wall along the edge of the slopes around the perimeter of the window. To do this, we determine with a small one where the edge of the rail will be located, and fasten it with self-tapping screws or ordinary nails to the wall. Don't forget building level check the rail vertically, it must be strictly level.

Step 4: Apply the grout, set the angle

When the slats are installed at the corners of the slopes, we proceed to the application of the plaster mixture. To do this, apply the solution to the slope with a trowel at an angle, preferably with a slight excess. After the small one, the excess of the plaster mixture should be removed and the direction of the angle should be betrayed to the slope. In this case, set the block to window frame, in the same way as we did during the measurements, and run the block along the frame from the bottom up. In this case, the pen will remove excess and align work surface. If, after the work done, pits remain on the slope, add the mortar and again remove the excess with a small one.