Daylily is a flower of incredible beauty, but, unfortunately, its flowering is so short-lived that you don’t have time to admire its riot of colors. Daylily blooms only for one day, but the plant itself is perennial! By increasing the number of peduncles, flowering can last up to 1.5 months, which is good news.

The maximum height of the peduncle of a daylily can reach 1.5 meters. It is used to decorate a velvet lawn, to harmoniously merge the styles of plant compositions and place accents of winning colors, creating cascades of foliage. They look great as solitary plants and generally harmonize with phlox, loosestrife, lilies, astilbes, irises, ferns, dahlias, bulbous plants and others. If you use miniature types of daylilies to decorate your garden, then it is better to plant them in rockeries, at the bases of hills of boulders and stones, and borders.

Growing daylily

If you grow daylilies in Russia, then you should pay attention to mid- and early-flowering species so that the plants have time to develop and prepare for winter, such as Orange daylily (Hemerocallis aurantiaca), Small daylily (Hemerocallis minor), Middendorf daylily (Hemerocallis middendorfii), Lemon daylily -yellow (Hemerocallis citrina).

Soil for growing daylilies

Plants require regular garden soil - loose, rich in nutrients. Soddy-podzolic soils should be enriched with peat, sand and mineral fertilizers.

Be careful with nitrogen fertilizers; its excess will become an enemy to flowering.

If the soil is heavy clayey and damp, then there is a high probability of rotting of the root system and a predisposition to fungal diseases, especially in cold times when moisture stagnates. If the soil is sandy, then on the contrary there will be a lack of moisture, which will certainly affect the quality of the plants. Fertilize plants with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in a ratio of 5:5:12 and after flowering for better flowering effect the following year.

Place for planting daylilies

For mass and full flowering of daylilies, the area must be well lit. Shade and partial shade are also possible, but flowering will be longer (2-3 weeks), and there is concern that the flower will not open (any flower needs sunlight). There should be plenty of space for plants to develop; over time, the bush will grow to 70 cm in diameter. Seat freely, giving space for development.

How to plant daylily

Before planting, plants are soaked for several hours in epin, zircon or other growth stimulant. Weak or rotten roots should be removed and leaves trimmed to 15cm to encourage the plants to produce new roots and leaves. If the place has not yet been chosen for planting daylilies, then you should not be afraid of this; fresh plants can lie in a shaded place for 2-3 weeks (the roots can be buried a little in the sand). In this case, drying out the roots of plants is not a problem. Under each plant, prepare a hole as deep as a spade (30 cm), pour a heap of peat-humus and potassium-porcelain mixture. Place the plant on this hill so that the root collar is deepened no more than 2.5-5 cm. When daylilies are planted deeper, flowering is sluggish, if there is any at all, the leaves turn yellow and die. But you shouldn’t plant small, as the plants will be susceptible to frost. Cover the plant with soil, compact it and water it. Around the bush, mulch the ground with dry peat, fallen pine needles, and wood chips to retain moisture in the ground during a particularly dry period and thus the roots will not overheat from the scorching sun.

The purchased planting material is planted in spring or summer, in a lighted area.

Water daylilies rarely and only from below, using a hose or other device to keep the plant's foliage dry to reduce the possibility of disease infection!

Do not fertilize the daylily in the first year of planting.

Temperature regime for daylily

Winter hibernation for daylilies is short, only 2 months. During the summer, usually even the growing season does not have time to end. Leaves die off faster from frost than from a natural process and go into winter still green. Plants survive winter well. Although daylily is cold-resistant, it is better to cover it with straw, spruce branches, peat or sawdust for the winter.

Starting from mid-April, the plants awaken, the main thing is that the soil thaws and there are no more frosts. If the temperature drops in the summer when plants are flowering, the flowers become smaller, do not open completely, flowering begins to fade and, as a result, the flowers fade.

How to propagate daylily

There are several ways to propagate daylilies: seed and vegetative.

Seed method of daylily propagation

This method is good for breeding work, since varietal characteristics are lost during seed cultivation. When propagating daylilies by seed, it is important to know that cross-pollination of plants often occurs, which leads to the appearance of new hybrid species. Often, it is not possible to grow daylilies using the natural seed propagation method due to the inability to set seeds, i.e. The plants bloom beautifully, but seeds form only on some bushes. This is explained by the fact that there were no beneficial insects for pollination.

Artificial pollination is a variant of daylily seed propagation. If sowing is expected in the spring of next year, then they must be stratified for 1.5-2 months at a temperature of 2 to 4°C. Daylily flowering will begin in 2-3 years, it will be weak.

Vegetative method of daylily propagation

This method of propagation is good for breeding varieties and different hybrids, preserving all their characteristics.

Typically, daylilies are propagated by dividing the bush when the flowers reduce their flowering quality. Bushes that are no more than 5-6 years old are best suited for this. Division is carried out during spring leaf growth, around the beginning of May. Replanting begins when the winter flower wakes up from hibernation and begins to grow (the winter daylily is well preserved under the snow if the cover was thick enough). Division can be carried out in early autumn. The main thing here is not to hesitate, but with a sharp, neat cutting movement of a well-sharpened shovel or a knife, divide the rhizome so that the plant can be injured as little as possible and can take root.

Remove the plant from the soil, shake off the soil, or rinse it off with a stream of water. Loose-bush species are divided by hand, while dense-bush species are divided using a knife with a wide blade or a shovel. Be careful, when dividing the bush you can damage the fragile roots. Each division should have a part of the root collar and a bud.

If dividing a bush is carried out on an adult daylily, which is about 10 or more years old, then the young roots will be located in the peripheral part, their divisions will quickly take root and develop. If you take the cuttings from the center, without young growth, then when planting you will need to cut out weak or rotten parts of the roots, shorten the long roots, renew the cuts on the broken roots and plant them in the garden for additional development for 1-2 years, after which they will be transplanted to a permanent place.

To create a decorative effect with greenery rather than flowering, the bush is divided into 3-5 parts of shoots.

If you want to propagate loose-bush types of daylilies, you can do without digging up the mother bush - separate the daughter rosettes in the 2nd, or preferably 3rd, year so that they have their own roots formed. Carry out the division in the second half of August.

Without digging up the bush, loose-bush types of daylilies can be divided in the spring with the help of a well-sharpened shovel. Mark the dividing line, place the shovel in a vertical position and cut with a sharp downward movement of your foot. Next, cut from the bottom and remove. The deeper roots will be damaged, but this is not a big deal since you will still need to shorten them before planting. You only need to be careful with young, fragile roots! Sprinkle ash or crushed coal onto the cut. Do not water the bush so that the root system does not begin the process of rotting; fill the resulting hole with earth and compact it well.

Daylily propagation by cuttings

When the flowering of the daylily ends, single rosettes of dormant buds are formed - this will be the material for propagation. Stem cuttings are cut, shortening the leaves by 1/3 of the length, and planted in a cold greenhouse. Shade and spray for some time. Once the cuttings have taken root, they can be watered.

How to preserve daylilies before planting

If you bought daylily roots and the buds are still dormant, then simply store them in the refrigerator or in any cool, dry place. Check their condition periodically. Daylilies should be planted in pots when shoots begin to grow. Make notes on the pots what kind of variety it is. Place the containers in the brightest place. Water the soil as it dries to prevent the plants from rotting.

In early May, daylilies are transplanted into open ground. If leaves appear in the room, then most likely they will fall off, but the growth points themselves will be alive.

Daylily diseases and pests

Root rot

If in the spring the growth of the daylily suddenly stops, and the leaves that appear have turned yellow and can be easily pulled out of the ground, then you can begin to fight root rot. Dig up the plant, carefully cut off all infected areas with a knife, treat with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, and lubricate the cut areas with fungicide. Dry for a few days and replant in another place (unfortunately, there will be no flowering for another couple of years). It will be possible to plant the plant in its original place no earlier than after 1 year.

Rust

This is a dangerous fungal disease that may not be noticeable outwardly. New daylilies can be infected, so it is better not to plant plants purchased or taken from a neighbor close to your own plants. You can reduce the risk of rust disease as follows: remove the outer layers of leaves up to the root collar and cut off those remaining above the root collar by 2.5-5 cm. Treat with fungicides. The same procedure can be carried out with divisions.

Arm yourself with a magnifying glass and carefully inspect the plants; there may be spots on the underside of the leaves - an early sign of rust. You can fight rust only by removing the affected parts (burning) and fungicides: Mancozeb, Chlorothalonil, Azoxystrobin, Triademephon. Repeat treatment after two weeks. Fungicide treatment alone, without removing leaves, will not be enough.

Lily mosquito

It affects plant buds that need to be removed and burned. The individual lays eggs in the buds, the emerging larva begins to feed on it, resulting in deformation of the bud, change in color, and shrinkage.

Thrips

This tiny pest can cause a lot of trouble not only for the daylily, but also for other inhabitants of the garden. Thrips live in the roots of plants in winter, and in the spring they begin their destructive destruction. They suck juices from the entire plant: from the leaves and petals, in the fall they descend back into the roots and hibernate. If found, the peduncle is cut off at the root and burned. If only the leaves are damaged, they are removed and also burned. In the fall, the soil around the plants is treated with insecticides.

In February, garden centers already receive planting material from Europe. There, spring begins earlier and plants can be planted in the garden. What should we do? The most reasonable thing to do is to give up early purchases and wait until our garden exhibitions are open and seedlings from local nurseries go on sale. But sellers of planting material know well the psychology of an amateur gardener. Love for plants is a “disease”, and we simply cannot refuse to buy another seedling, especially when we can hold it in our hands, especially when it is in such a colorful package! Sometimes we ourselves don’t notice how we buy plants and “come to our senses” only when we bring them home. It's winter outside. What to do with them before planting in April?

In the language of gardeners, storing planting material when purchased early is called “overexposure”. Different types of plants require different conditions.

Let's look at what is currently on sale and how to save it if you couldn't resist buying it.

VISUAL INSPECTION

Let's start with the fact that any planting material must be removed from the packaging and carefully inspected. In a store, through a bag and a layer of peat, it can be difficult to see damage and small areas of rot.

If they are found, then measures must be taken immediately: darkened roots and broken tubers should be cut back to healthy tissue. Burn small spots of rot with a strong solution of potassium permanganate or brilliant green, or put the entire plant in a fungicide solution. After this, decide what to do with the plant: store it in the refrigerator or plant it in a pot.

For storage, do not use the old bag in which you bought the plant!

TO EACH HIS OWN

So, what can you buy in February? BULB CROPS: gladioli, acidanthera, lilies, tigridia and others (photo 1). It's easiest with them. Most of them just need to be put in the refrigerator (after inspection). Check from time to time, as gladioli and lilies may begin to sprout and the shoots will be crooked.

If the bulbs begin to grow, you need to put them in a box so that the sprouts look up. At low temperatures, the growth process can be slowed down. However, this is not always possible. Most often, lilies wake up early and the sprout begins to grow uncontrollably. Then there is only one way out - plant it in a pot, and - on the windowsill!

TUBERS - dahlias, begonias, cannas. They can also be stored in the refrigerator, but be sure to isolate them from moisture. It is better to wrap it first in paper and then in a clean bag.

Of these plants, cannas are the most impatient. If it was warm in the store, then the growth process has already started and, as a rule, it is impossible to stop it. Cannes will have to be planted.

RHOZOMES OF PERENNIALS: these are irises, as well as herbaceous and tree-like peonies (photo 3, 4). Herbaceous peonies and irises can be kept in the refrigerator. It's good if you have moss in stock. Wrap the root in slightly damp moss and place it in a bag. Instead of moss (for peony), you can use a damp cloth or paper. It is better to moisten not with ordinary water, but with a solution of phytosporin (squeeze well!). It is better to store irises in a bag of peat. They don't need excess moisture.

Tree peonies wake up early. Already in the store, leaves are blooming at the ends of the branches (photo 3). Tree peonies need to be planted. The root can be large. It is convenient to plant in five-liter cut cans. They clearly show how moist the soil is and how roots develop in it.

Strong divisions of tree peonies can bloom. Tear off the bud or let it open, but then immediately cut it into a vase.

PERENNIAL DIVISIONS: astilbe, phlox, hosta, daylilies, eryngium and others. Here look at the thickness of the roots and the condition of the buds. Daylilies with thick, cord-like roots can be kept in the refrigerator (photo 2). But it is desirable that the buds are small and have not yet begun to grow. Only in this case can the plant be stored without planting it in a pot.

If sprouts appear, they will stretch out during storage without access to light. In addition, taking nutrition from the roots will completely weaken them. This means that cuttings with sprouts must be planted in the ground so that the roots receive nutrition from the ground.

Plants with thin roots, such as phlox, are best planted immediately (regardless of the size of the buds). If stored for a long time, they can dry out and become unviable.

SHRUBS: roses, spirea, forsythia, lilac, deutia, etc. It is better to choose those whose buds are dormant. They are easier to preserve until spring.

But you can’t put such plants in the refrigerator (they are too big). And they can only be stored at low temperatures close to zero. If the temperature on the loggia is more than four degrees Celsius, then it is not suitable for storage (without planting). The buds will definitely wake up and begin to draw juices from the seedling.

All shrubs need to be planted in the ground! This also applies to roses. Their roots are tightly wrapped in a bag (photo 6). Before planting, soak them in warm water. Trim the ends with sharp scissors. Plant so that the roots do not bend. Do not remove the wax layer from the branches.

Water the planted plant thoroughly with fungicide. You can use Vitaros, Fitolavin, Fitosporin.

Coconut substrate is suitable as a soil for planting roses, peonies and other plants. There is a lot of air, fewer pathogens, and the roots develop well (photo 5).

After planting, it is better to place all plants (roses, peonies, phlox) in a cool, bright place. The loggia is perfect. But you absolutely can’t put it on the floor! There's not enough light there. Raise the plants higher, at least on a stool.

Otherwise, the shoots will become very elongated and it will be very difficult for such a plant to emerge. In the spring it can burn in the sun, and in the first winter die from frost.

Water very sparingly. Periodically (every 10-14 days) add Fitosporin to the water. Spray the plants with the same solution during the day on the leaves and sprouts that emerged from the ground.

If the seedlings are in a room where the temperature is much higher, water as the soil dries. Also spray the shoots, otherwise spider mites may develop from the dry air.

By following all the above rules, you will preserve your plants until spring. But still, try to resist early purchase. It is justified only if you come across rare plants or new items.

From the end of January, or even earlier, sales of perennials begin in our stores. Huge selection: roses, lilies, daylilies, irises, peonies, tuberous begonias, echinaceas and others. My eyes just run wild... Usually, amateur flower growers can’t resist and buy. And then the question arises - how to preserve the flower planting material purchased in advance!

But what can we do if we are put in such conditions? After all, when the planting season comes, there is practically nothing in the stores, or there is only something left that you can’t look at without tears. It seems that manufacturing companies are absolutely indifferent to the fate of the grown plants; the pursuit of money comes first. After all, they have every opportunity to fully preserve their “live” goods until spring. Their plants are stored in special refrigerators at a certain temperature or in a state of light frost.

Therefore, if you decide to purchase flower roots, then do not make mistakes at the first stage - purchase only plants recently delivered to the store without any flaws!

Nature intends a slow change of climatic conditions: deep sleep - a slow gradual awakening, which starts the process of root formation, and then a gradual increase in heat and light, which will trigger the growth of green mass, which will be fed by already grown roots.

Let's return to our conditions. Where to begin?

We carefully inspect the acquired rhizomes and tubers. We pay special attention to the condition of the roots, root collar and the embryos of future sprouts. If damage is detected or the beginning of rotting, it is necessary to immediately strip it down to living tissue and treat it. To do this, you can use fungicides - “Topaz”, “Skor” and others, or fill the wounds with charcoal, or cover them with brilliant green.

If the purchased plants are in good condition and well packaged initially (they have a slightly damp filler, usually peat or sawdust), then the best storage option is to put them in the basement, in a compartment where the temperature does not drop below zero, or in the refrigerator in a vegetable storage box and fruits. It is necessary to constantly monitor the condition of the plants!

If the store packaging is of poor quality, wrap the plant in slightly moistened sphagnum moss or peat, wrap it in newspaper and pack it in a plastic bag, puncturing holes in it.

If your plants are damaged or have already sprouted, then after treating the wounds, the plants will have to be planted in pots. In order to easily and without damaging the root system to plant the grown plants in the ground, before filling the pot with soil, cover it with a net, in which fruits and vegetables are usually sold. Cover it so that the mesh is larger than the height of the pot; when planting the plant, it will be enough to lift the edges of the mesh and remove the plant with a lump of earth from the pot and transfer it immediately to the planting hole. The soil should be light, loose and slightly moist. You can use purchased Violet peat, coconut substrate and add a little garden soil, vermiculite, and wood ash. Spill the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate or Fitosporin. It is also better to keep pots with plants in a cool place for as long as possible at first. When the plants finally wake up and sprouts appear, they will have to be moved to a bright place, but preferably cool.

We'll try to figure it out individually.

Plants with thick rhizomes, such as dahlias, peonies, irises, lilies, daylilies, gypsophila and the like, are best kept in a cool place until planted in the ground.

Plants that have roots that are less thickened, such as monardas, hostas, astilbes, speedwells and the like, cannot be kept in the refrigerator until planting. After keeping it in the refrigerator for a while, you still have to transplant it into pots. But they need an initial cold period for flowering to occur.

Plants with fibrous rhizomes, which do not have a moisture reserve, must be immediately planted in a pot in slightly moistened soil and put in a cool place (basement, refrigerator), sometimes very rarely watered a little at a time. This applies to phlox, Siberian irises, heuchera, echinacea, aquilegia and the like.

The main reasons for the death of perennials stored until spring are diseases and inappropriate storage temperatures. A warm room atmosphere causes premature growth of the green above-ground part of the plant; the unawakened root system is not able to provide the plant with moisture and nutrition. By watering the plant, we only provoke the development of rot, and the plant dries out without receiving moisture. And the plant must be accustomed to bright light gradually.

It has begun... It’s still February on the calendar, but the first plants have already begun to arrive in stores selling planting material. First, timidly and timidly, gladioli, dahlias, buttercups, lilies and begonias. But the closer spring comes, the wider the river of supplies. And now there are hostas, daylilies, geraniums, tradescantia, astilbe, roses and much, much more. If you don't buy it now, you might not buy it at all. Unfortunately, this is true. Some varieties come in limited quantities, some simply do not wait for us and quietly die from heat, humidity or some other reason.

So, we bought a plant. And the spine began to grow, but in the yard there was a deep minus. And planting in a pot will not improve the situation - the plant produces shoots, the first leaves... even buds - and dies.

And this is what happened - growth began due to the reserves accumulated in the tissues, but the roots did not “turn on” - the result was a “forcing effect”, much like the regrowth of shoots from cut roses in a vase.

Be careful when purchasing anemones, heucheras, heleniums, Siberian and Japanese irises, bathing flowers, poppies, monardas, hellebores, phlox, and echinaceas long before planting - keeping them alive is much more difficult.
For planting material of these plants, cold storage (at a temperature no higher than +5 °C) and the so-called “cold start” are especially important: planting in the ground at the earliest possible time, preferably under cover.

According to experience, it is generally better to buy phloxes and echinaceas in summer or autumn, with a closed root system (in pots). The same applies to lumbago - this plant does not tolerate transplantation well, and storage in the form of open roots is completely contraindicated for it.

You shouldn't buy anemones in spring at all. And if it’s so bad, a cold start is vital for them! Plant the plants in a container in a slightly damp substrate, and take them into the garden - warm the soil with boiling water, dig in the container and cover it with sawdust and a good amount of snow.

A cold start is required for delphinium and aconite.

What can you buy without fear?

Although the summer season is still far away, feel free to buy hosta rhizomes, daylilies, astilbe, bergenia, sedum, and lily bulbs. These plants will tolerate home care well. Even if you don't have room in the refrigerator or their leaves have already begun to unfurl, you can plant them in pots and place them on a bright, cool windowsill. True, many hostas in indoor conditions do not acquire the characteristic leaf color of the variety, so final conclusions about misgrading will have to be made only after the plant has acclimatized in the garden. Yes, and plants with regrown leaves will have to be planted in the ground late, after all frosts have ended, and, moreover, carefully shading them.

Bearded irises are also quite undemanding in storage. But their plots require drier conditions, and in damp conditions they can rot.

Waiting for spring. Planting material is most often stored in a refrigerator or basement at a low positive temperature.
The rhizomes are covered with slightly moistened peat, coconut fiber, sawdust, light soil, and even better - sphagnum moss and placed in loosely covered plastic bags or plastic containers. Plants with small, thin, quickly drying roots can be planted in pots with soil, but they are stored in the same conditions. A very good solution would be to take planting material of frost-resistant plants to the dacha and bury it in the snow. Choose a shady place in the garden where there is no standing water in the spring, and dig the snow down to the ground. Remove the rhizomes from the packaging, place them on the ground, cover with peat, soil or sawdust, and cover with snow on top. But this can only be done with completely “dormant” plants, with unopened buds. If the leaves begin to unfold, negative temperatures are contraindicated for them.
After the snow melts, plant perennials in the ground. It is useful to use film or other coverings.

Read more about storing some perennials:

Daylilies

root collar - carefully inspect for rot. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot remedies.
Daylilies are well kept in the refrigerator at a temperature of +1 + 4. The roots must be placed in a slightly moist substrate, best stored wrapped in paper (newspaper) or a perforated plastic bag. There is no need to plant daylilies in pots at home if the sprout length is up to 10 cm (personal experience). But if the sprouts are longer, then the daylily can be planted in a pot and grown as a houseplant, since this unpretentious plant easily tolerates indoor conditions. The only difficulty is that you can plant a plant from a pot in the ground only after the threat of return frosts has passed, gradually accustoming it to sunlight. (For Ukraine - after May 25.) After planting in a permanent place, the plant should be shaded from direct sunlight.
Daylilies that have been stored in the refrigerator after purchase can be planted in open ground at the end of April (depending on the weather, focusing on the daylilies already in the garden, covering them from frost with a plastic bottle or lutrasil).

What you should pay attention to when inspecting: roots - trim the rotten ends, remove old, dry, rotten, damaged roots.
Root collar - carefully inspect for rot. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or remedies for root rot. They are stored well in the refrigerator at a temperature of +1 + 4. The roots must be placed in a slightly moist substrate, best stored wrapped in paper (newspaper) or a perforated plastic bag.
There is no need to plant hostas in pots at home if the sprout length is up to 5 cm (personal experience). Personal experience: they were sent to the pit when the ground was still frozen and boiling water was pouring in order to dig a hole. I poured coconut substrate at the bottom of the hole, laid the hostas, covered it with coconut substrate, then with earth. They held up well from the end of March until May.
It can be planted in open ground at the end of April (depending on the condition of the plant - the smaller the sprout, the earlier it can be planted; depending on the weather, focusing on the hostas already in the garden, covering it from frost with a plastic bottle, lutrasil).
They prefer neutral or slightly acidic soil. Depending on the size of the variety/species of hosta, the root collar is buried from 1.0 to 5.0 cm when planting.
If necessary, you can plant it in a pot at home, since hostas can easily tolerate the warm and dry air of a room. But we must keep in mind that such plants will have to be kept at home until the beginning of June, and only then planted in open ground, gradually hardening the plants.

What you should pay attention to when inspecting: roots - trim the rotten ends, remove old, dry, rotten, damaged roots.
Root collar - carefully inspect for rot. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot remedies (Epin).
They do not tolerate overexposure in apartment conditions on a windowsill, since the plant at the first stage of development requires a lower temperature, lower at night and slightly higher during the day. Before planting in the ground, it is advisable to store the rhizomes in the refrigerator at a temperature of 0 to +3, wrapped in sphagnum moss and a perforated plastic bag.
If you still have to plant the plants in a pot, then a “cold start” is necessary. We plant it in a poor substrate - 2/3 sand, 1/3 soil, put it in the refrigerator. We monitor the appearance of leaves. They begin to grow - we take them out, put them in a cool place +10 +12 during the day, and put them in the refrigerator at night. Do not overwater! We plant it in open ground in May, making sure to shade the planted plants.

What you should pay attention to when inspecting: roots - trim the rotten ends, remove old, dry, rotten, damaged roots.
Root collar - carefully inspect for rot. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot remedies.
They do not tolerate overexposure in apartment conditions on a windowsill, since the plant at the first stage of development requires a lower temperature, lower at night and slightly higher during the day. Before planting in the ground, it is advisable to store the rhizomes in the refrigerator at a temperature of 0 to +3, wrapped in sphagnum moss and a perforated plastic bag. If you still have to plant the plants in a pot, then a “cold start” is necessary. We plant it in a poor substrate - 2/3 sand, 1/3 soil, put it in the refrigerator. We monitor the appearance of leaves. They begin to grow - we take them out, put them in a cool place +10 +12 during the day, and put them in the refrigerator at night. Don't flood!
However, it is better to take it to the dacha as soon as possible and bury it (if the ground has not thawed yet, you can use purchased soil for this).

What you should pay attention to during inspection: remove loose scales (if they are hard and not rotten, they can be used for propagation).
If there is rot, remove to healthy tissue. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot remedies.
Overexposure: keep well in the refrigerator. Use the product recommended for pre-planting treatment/storage. Dry. Place in a dry substrate, wrap in newspapers and store in the refrigerator at a temperature of +1 + 4. It is advisable to place the bulbs with the sprout facing upward, then even if the lilies begin to grow, the sprout will not bend. If the sprout exceeds 10-15 cm, it can be planted in a pot. You just need to remember that lilies grow roots at temperatures no higher than 10-15 degrees. Therefore, the pot must be placed on a glazed balcony or in the refrigerator. You can plant a lily from a pot into open ground only after the threat of return frosts has passed. We plant lilies stored in the refrigerator in May.

Clematis:

Clematis with 1-2 eyes or, if the purchased clematis is frail, are planted in long pots without a bottom; rose pots are usually used. You can use larger clematis pots. Sometimes I plant in not very large pots at home, and when I bring them to the dacha, I plant them in larger ones. Why do I plant it in a pot without a bottom? Yes, because in just one season, the roots of clematis in good conditions extend beyond the boundaries of the pot. If the pots have a bottom, then as a rule I get a twisted ball of roots, some of the roots come out of the drainage holes and when digging these roots break off, and the tangled ones have to be untangled during planting, which is not good, because in the fall I try to transfer the clematis from the pot to its permanent place , and not replant.
So, I planted it in a pot (I buy soil, if it’s not possible to buy it, you can use soil from the garden) and I dig the pots into the ground in a stationary greenhouse. If there is no permanent greenhouse or there is no room for pots, then you can build a greenhouse from arcs. The main condition is that there is constant humidity, warmth and no stagnation of water at the roots.
Then clematis grow by leaps and bounds and in one season you can get decent bushes with several buds or even sprouts. I never place pots on the ground; I always dig them in, so there is more opportunity to retain moisture inside the pot at the roots.
Peonies are a separate matter.
About buying peonies. The life cycle of these plants is such that they best tolerate transplantation and division in the fall. Rhizomes planted in spring take root worse, are stunted in growth, and are more susceptible to disease. To be fair, it must be said that it is not easy to completely destroy a peony root - they are very unpretentious - but you can easily lose a year, or even two, before full flowering. Experienced peony growers advise immediately planting the rhizomes acquired in the spring in large (3-8 l) pots and displaying or digging them in the garden, and in August-September, at the optimal time for peonies, planting them in a permanent place

by Notes of the Wild Mistress

It's time... It's time to start visiting all sorts of different stores and shops selling roots, bulbs, fertilizers, pruning shears! Although, what am I talking about? Probably already half of the useful area of ​​the balcony is something that was bought for future use and is waiting to be sent to the dacha.

And what is there in this dense pile: film, agrospan, mulch, coconut briquettes, supports... You never know what useful things have turned up over the long winter months, I can’t remember everything. And how many other different little bags and bags are hidden in the secluded corners of the apartment, in bookshelves, in the far corners of closets.

This is a necessary measure, because I’m tired of catching the mocking glances of my relatives, or listening to advice that it would be better to buy something more practical, aesthetic and pretty.

And now the most pleasant moment has come - you can start buying the future inhabitants of your gardens. Everyone’s tastes are different, and the probability of predicting what you’ll want to buy is very low, but you can still think about how to store what you bought before planting it in the ground.

And this is our main task, however, it is only the third, because the first task is to choose the best, and the second is to stop in time in the “grabbing-buying” process.

Sometimes I get overcome by insomnia if, towards the end of the night, I suddenly remember how much I managed to buy and how many ready-made seats I have.

So, lily bulbs. Having chosen the largest, cleanest and strongest lily bulbs, even if this means turning over the entire box if they are in a package or torturing the seller if they are in bulk, we bring the spoils home. On the way, we frantically remember whether we have “Maxim” or brilliant green, sphagnum, coconut shavings, plain newspapers and bags.

By the way, about the bags. You can collect apple bags; lately you have often come across perforated bags, they are clean, just a sticker with a weight, but you can use that too - write something you need.

The first thing we do is inspect the lily bulbs again. Then there are several options:

You can immediately pickle the bulbs in Maxim, dry them, wrap them in sphagnum, newspaper (be sure to sign!!!) and put everything in a perforated bag and in the refrigerator, in a vegetable drawer, and so that the temperature is from 0 to +3 C.

You can check the onions, coat doubtful areas with brilliant green, wrap them in newspaper, in a bag, or in the refrigerator. Then you can keep it in “Maxim” before planting it in the ground, and if the lily bulbs have withered, then also in “Epin”.

But these are concerns about planting, and we are talking about preservation. In both options 1 and 2, you need to sprinkle the newspaper a little with water.

Once a week or less, if you have enough patience, you need to check the bulbs.

Lilies packaged this way can last for a long time, which is good for them. Who else can endure “preliminary imprisonment” in a refrigerator chamber without damage?!

The most persistent - hostas and daylilies. They can easily lie in the refrigerator for a long time, even if sprouts appear. They should be planted in the ground when the leaves of hostas try to unfurl, and daylilies when the sprout reaches a length of 15 cm or more.

After planting, place it on a bright but cool window, or on a glazed balcony, cover it at night (some with bottles, some with milk cartons, some just twisting pound cakes from newspapers) and top it with whatever you have - lutrasil, a thin old sheet.

But, of course, placing pots on the balcony largely depends on the temperature outside the window. Be sure to place the pots on something, not just a cold stone floor. Of course, what began to grow on the balcony can only get into open ground when the leaves of the country plants are the same as those of the house plants. You can’t plant it earlier!

If the purchased roots are in the supplier's packaging - in a bag with perforations, with peat or sphagnum, then you need to periodically remove these bags and check: if the peat is very dry, then you can lightly spray the peat with a syringe, lightly shaking the bag, distribute evenly and place again in the refrigerator, in the vegetable drawer.

Bearded irises they are also good to keep in the refrigerator, but they must be kept dry rather than wet.

Tradescantia unpretentious and grows well on the windowsill. If it gets too long, you need to cut it off and put the shoots in water - it will take root well.

The most capricious during overexposure - Siberian and Japanese irises, phlox, hellebores, poppies, speedwells, meconopsis, anemones. Just look, they will rot, and the roots are usually few and thin.

They can be washed in a “Maxim” solution (in fact, this is not harmful to anyone), immediately planted in pots with light soil and barely watered, be sure to dry the soil between waterings, just so that they do not dry out. In many of them, if planted and left in a warm place, only the leaves will grow, and the root will sleep. The leaves eat up all the reserves, and that’s all - wasted money, the plant died. So, be sure to choose a cold place +10-15 and below, make sure that mold does not appear.

And in general, if you have a balcony or loggia where the temperature is around +10, then you can buy almost everything. And, if it starts to sprout strongly and quickly, plant it on the balcony.

If the rootlets have been in the refrigerator until warm and remain dormant, then at the end of April - beginning of May you can plant everything in the ground.

Of course, it’s better to start with something that can be easily and simply stored, but if you really want it, you can buy a lot and go out.

One more thing. Surely on March 8 someone will be given flowers as a gift, but not simple ones, but, knowing your passion for landscaping, in a pot: miniature rose, primrose or gerbera. And this is even wonderful, because they can also be planted in the garden later!

What are your actions in this case? We thank the donor, take a break from everything and get busy with the gift. We get the soil, drainage, and plant Epin. We quickly set up a workplace on the kitchen table - newspaper, scissors, pot.

Gently and carefully (a gift after all!) Shake our flower out of the purchased pot, shake off ALL the soil from the roots, trim the roots, and soak them in Epin.

You need to try to wash away all those peat residues on the roots that you could not shake off. Otherwise, poor flowers are planted in bare peat with phytoadditives of such concentration and power that the plant does not have enough strength to live for long. After all, the main task of the sellers is to expel them on time and sell them in bloom, but no one thinks about the long-term preservation of the life of the flower.

By the way, if you plant a rose in the ground, don’t expect to get a miniature one - it’s a lottery, but it’s so exciting!

While the roots are in “Epin”, we prepare a drainage pot and soil. We plant it in our own pot, with fresh soil, and in the summer we can plant our flower in the garden. You can plant miniature roses, petunias, and primroses in open ground this way. Gerberas are purely domestic flowers. They should be left on the windowsill.