Shower      06/13/2019

Features of growing girlish grapes on the balcony. Growing grapes in an apartment - indoor grapes

Girlish grapes (or, as it is also called, “wild grapes”) are an easy and cheap way to decorate your home. It is unpretentious, grows quickly and wraps around the wall, covering it with bright leaves. How to plant and grow girlish grapes on the balcony?

Girlish grapes on the balcony

Planting girlish grapes on the balcony

In order for the plant to take root, you need to approach the planting process with all responsibility. Let's break it down step by step:

First of all, you need to choose the right seedling. If the plant has weak roots or roots wrapped in cellophane, it is better to refuse to buy it. It is worth paying a little more and buying a sprout in a pot - so the likelihood that it will take root is much higher;

It is necessary to plant sprouts in the ground in the spring. As for further transplants, they can be carried out at any time of the year. Choose humus soil for planting;

Pick up a large pot and fill it with earth. Make a hole in it 50 cm deep and wide. Put drainage on the bottom;

Plant a sprout in the ground, cover it with earth, water it.

If you are planning to plant multiple seedlings, keep in mind that they do not like close quarters. The distance between them should be 3 meters.

Growing girlish grapes on the balcony

After the sprout takes root, you need to properly care for it. However, this plant is not whimsical at all, so you can handle the care without problems.

This grape variety needs to be watered quite often. It is important that the ground always remains slightly moist. Also, twice a year (in spring and early summer), the plant needs to be fed. Nitroammofosk is well suited for this.

Give the plant a chance to curl. Install pegs and tie it if necessary. In addition, sometimes loosen the earth to saturate it with oxygen. Do this very carefully, otherwise you may damage the root system.

Growing grapes on the balcony of a city apartment is quite realistic. For these purposes, decorative girlish grapes, which are also wild, are ideal. Its cultivation does not require special knowledge and significant material costs. Having spent quite a bit of free time, you can create a cozy, favorite corner on your balcony. This is a liana-like plant with a length of more than 15 meters. Like ordinary grapes, it blooms a little attractively from June - July. Fruits - brushes of small dark blue berries with seeds inside begin to ripen from late August, early September. In mild climates, they can remain on the branches all winter even after the leaves have fallen.

Varieties

Girlish grapes have several species that differ from each other both in appearance and in growing conditions. The most common are:

  • Five leaf.

The leaves are five-fingered oval. All spring and summer the foliage is green, only in autumn the color changes to purple-red. This climbing plant rises to a height of 10 m and braids large spaces over time.

  • Triostrenny.

The plant is very similar to ivy. Large leaves are three-lobed rhomboid pointed shape. Dark green with glossy edges. Berries of a blue-black shade with an ashen bloom are collected in small clusters. Reproduces only vegetatively.

reproduction

  • layering

With the help of stem cuttings, wild grapes reproduce very easily, but a lot of space is required, which is not always available on the balcony. A stem up to 2 meters long must be buried in the ground. You can get out of the situation if you drop the branch in waves: bury part of the branch with the bud, leave the segment to the next bud above the ground, and so on. The distance between them can be reduced to 10-15 cm. In the spring, when the cuttings take root, they are separated and transplanted.

  • seeds

This generative method is the longest in time, so it is rarely used. Ripe berries are harvested in autumn. The seeds cleared of pulp are planted in the prepared substrate to a depth of 1 cm. The first shoots will appear only at the end of next June. During the year, it is necessary to regularly maintain soil moisture, weed out.

  • cuttings

The most convenient way for urban conditions. During planned pruning in spring or early summer, small pieces of 2-3 buds are cut from adult branches, 2-3 buds each. The leaves are removed from the cuttings and placed in a vessel with water for 2/3. After 1 - 1.5 months, roots begin to appear - the plant is ready for planting. First, they are transplanted into separate containers for seedlings, later, already strengthened cuttings - to a permanent place.

Landing

To grow girlish grapes on a balcony, you need a container with a volume of about 100-120 liters. It can be a ceramic pot or a wooden box with a depth of at least 40-60 cm. Holes are made at the bottom to drain excess water.

A young plant does not like a lot of sun, so on the southern balcony it may not take root, dry out. But even in the shade it will wither. It is better if the sun's rays warm the plant for half a day.

Advice! When buying seedlings of wild grapes, you should pay attention to its grafting and roots. It is unacceptable for the roots to be wrapped in a plastic bag. The plant should be in a container suitable for transplanting.

Planting takes place in the spring. A pot with a seedling on the balcony can be placed directly on the floor. The first 2 years, the shoot will trail alone with small thin branches. Nearby it is necessary to mark the supports so that the processes cling to them with their antennae. For example, a wide board with stuffed nails, on which you can stretch a wire, cord or mesh. When the shoots reach their maximum support height, they should be pinched off for better branching and directed in the desired direction. On the eve of the first winter, especially in regions with a harsh climate, the regrown young shoots of grapes are cut in half, and the pot is brought into the room. In the spring they expose again, resuming the usual care. Soon the girlish grapes on the balcony sprout new sprouts. In the following years of life, the plant, when it grows and covers the entire balcony with a tent, should not be brought in for the winter, but if necessary, insulate the root system from frost. The growth rate is very high - several meters per season.

Priming

It is desirable to prepare the soil from equal parts of mature compost, meadow sandy and loamy soil, purchased peat universal substrate. Holes for water drainage in a pot can be replaced with 5-10 centimeters of drainage from expanded clay, gravel, crushed fragments of ceramic flower pots. Also, crushed leaves, dry knots, bark, a thin layer of humus or even manure are placed at the bottom. Such a layer turns out to be very loose, having air cavities for free germination of roots.

Care

Wild grapes are quite picky and easy to grow. In order for it to always have a beautiful decorative look, it is enough to keep the soil moist, periodically do top dressing and pruning.

Water at least once a week. It is also undesirable to pour over, therefore, to preserve moisture, the soil can be sprinkled with tree bark or needles with a loose layer that allows the surface to ventilate, otherwise mold may form.

For good growth in spring or early summer, top dressing is done - 40 - 50 grams of nitroammophoska are applied. During the active growing season, the grapes on the balcony are reinforced with organic fertilizer.

Important! Every year, the earth from the box needs to be partially replaced with humus and manure. In early spring, where the roots will allow, the earth is gently loosened, removed and replaced with fresh.

The earth must be periodically loosened so that the root system of the plant breathes. This is done carefully, without damaging the roots themselves. Be sure to weed the weeds.

In order for girlish grapes to cover the planned surface of the balcony, you need to grow it in a certain direction. When the plant is still low, its trunk is tied to wooden stakes set into the soil. Then, as the crown grows and forms, the rope supports are pulled along which it will trail further. To maintain a neat appearance and the formation of a crown of grapes, periodic pruning of dry and sluggish twigs (leaves) will be required.

Pests

By nature, wild grapes are highly resistant to diseases and pests. If, nevertheless, aphids appeared on the leaves, they should be washed with a solution of water with alcohol or with laundry soap.

Overgrown wild grapes with their dense foliage protect the balcony from rain, and on a hot summer day it creates coolness. The living tent looks beautiful and spectacular: in summer it is bright green, in autumn it is rich burgundy. Closer to winter completely sheds foliage.

There are enthusiasts involved in the cultivation of grapes in an unusual environment for him, and doing it quite successfully. You just need to have a great desire and patience, in addition, it is necessary to take into account the circumstances under which it is possible or unrealistic to breed a solar culture at home.

For a home vineyard, it is best to use balconies and loggias located on the south, southeast or southwest side of the house. This is especially important if the grapes are intended to be grown for the purpose of harvesting, and not just for landscaping. Balconies on the north side are colder and darker, where the plant will not bloom and bear fruit. Therefore, persistent grape lovers solve the problem of lack of heat with the help of glazing and insulation of the balcony space. The installation of fluorescent lamps helps to get additional lighting.

Depending on the purpose, varieties suitable for breeding on balconies and loggias are selected.

Decorative grape varieties for growing on the balcony

For decoration, decorative varieties are suitable:

The plant got its name because the flowers of the plant do not require pollination by pollen to form seeds.

There are about ten species of Parthenocissus, of which three: ivy-shaped (triostriate), attached and virginian (five-leafed) are best suited for central Russia.

Maiden - a common grape variety for a balcony

Coignet grape, also called Japanese (Vitis coignetiae)

A powerful liana with a powerful trunk, along a support it can grow up to 20 meters in height.
It has edible black-purple berries (tart and sweetish), but they contain little juice.


Coignet - balcony grape with edible berries

maple leaf grape

Branched, low liana. In September it produces edible fruits - large (up to 12 mm), black, sweetish.


Amur - the most winter-hardy and unpretentious grapes


Amur - winter-hardy balcony grapesAmur - winter-hardy balcony grapes

Winter-hardy grapes, in the Moscow region and even to the north, winter quite calmly without any shelters. Grows practically by itself, does not require special care. The taste and aroma of berries is not inferior to fruit varieties, but they are small and leathery.

Fruit grapes for the balcony

If you want to get harvests, preference should be given to vigorous varieties that are resistant to diseases: Isabella, Lydia, Moldova, etc. However, in terms of wintering, these are very difficult varieties.

Landing rules. Agricultural technology

When growing a plant on a balcony, it is usually practiced to plant it in tubs or boxes treated on the inside with a material with insulating properties, such as bitumen. The volume of artificial grape "beds" must be at least 300 liters, they must have holes made in the bottom to get rid of excess moisture. Tanks are installed on metal pallets used to collect water. There should be a distance of 10-12 cm between them and the bottom of the tub. Drainage (5-6 cm) is poured onto the bottom of the "beds" using crushed stone or pebbles. A layer of coarse sand (5 cm) is placed on top.

The conditions in which the vine will grow on the balcony are quite different from the natural environment, so the composition of the soil must be taken with great attention. The soil mixture should consist of approximately five parts (relative to the total volume) of fertile loose earth, three parts of humus, two of coarse sand. Potassium salt, ammonium sulphate, superphosphate (100-120 grams of each of them) are used to fertilize the soil. The resulting nutrient mixture is well mixed, poured into a container and watered. In order for the soil to compact, you need to wait 3-4 days, and only after that plant the plants in a permanent place with a depth of 20-30 cm (up to the upper kidney).

Before planting, the upper part of the cuttings (about 16 cm) is sometimes dipped in molten paraffin. Its temperature should not exceed 85 and be below 75 degrees. Compliance with the temperature regime will not cause burns and will not allow a thick film to form, which subsequently cracks. After planting, the aerial part of the shoots is covered with plastic wrap, making it look like a cap, which can be removed after 2-3 weeks. During this time, the seedlings will get stronger, and their root system will have time to form. As the vines grow, wire supports are installed, stretched in the right direction, grapes will curl along them.

Cuttings must be of high quality and grafted. Proper agricultural practices will help you get a good harvest. First, the strongest seedlings are selected and divided into pairs. In each of them, one cutting is cut very short, no more than three buds are left on the branch, the other is shortened by 2/3. This is how a fruit link is formed, which makes it possible to obtain whips from long shoots in the next summer season, on which clusters will ripen. A vine cut short will also grow new branches. They are more powerful than those that have grown on a long "brother", as there are fewer of them and they get more food. After harvesting, ripened on a long vine, it is cut to the very base, and two short ones are left from the ripened branches. Thus, the same actions are repeated as when planting the original shoots. That is, one is shortened and the other vine is left long. New fruit links are obtained (substitution knots). The pruning procedure is repeated annually, the plant is formed in such a way that one vine gives a harvest, and the other waits in the wings.

Watering and feeding

Watering is done as the soil dries. When the fruits begin to ripen, the plant is moistened less. In the first half of growth and development, grapes are fertilized with nitrogen, then fed with phosphorus and potassium. Fertilizers are not applied to dry soil, as this can create conditions conducive to the concentration of any minerals. And instead of benefits, plants will be harmed. The root system can even get burned.

When growing grapes on a balcony, growth stimulants can be used to improve the ovary and faster fruit ripening. Plants are sprayed with preparations during flowering, fruit set and during the ripening of berries.

Preparing grapes for winter. Wintering conditions on the balcony

In autumn, after dropping the leaves, the grapes should be watered abundantly, which will protect the roots from freezing. The surface of the soil is mulched with leaves, peat or needles. Mulch helps moisture stay in the ground longer. Then the plant is removed from the supports and carefully covered with non-woven material. The vine has good frost resistance, can withstand frosts even at 30 degrees. Therefore, you can not be afraid of branches sheltered for the winter. But the root system in the conditions of growing grapes on the balcony can be seriously damaged or even die.

When growing in a natural environment, the roots grow deep into the ground, where they are outside the freezing zone. In addition, snow is an excellent natural insulator. And in balcony tubs or boxes, the earth can completely freeze. Therefore, in regions with very low winter temperatures, growing grapes on open balconies or loggias without additional insulation is very risky. Plants may simply not survive, and the work will be in vain. It is desirable to protect yourself from freezing by additional insulation of the tub from all sides, always from above and below!

The problem concerning the wintering of grapes can be solved if the balcony (loggia) is glazed and insulated. It is good if the winter air temperature in them does not fall below -3 degrees. But the most comfortable conditions for the plant are from 0 to +10 degrees. The grapes will not freeze and will not grow ahead of schedule. Rescue from extreme cold by moving to the apartment, and when warming comes back to the balcony, can seriously harm the grapes. Sudden changes in temperature and humidity can destroy the plant. Therefore, before deciding to grow grapes on the balcony, you need to weigh the pros and cons. This is especially true for fruiting varieties.

Grapes on the balcony are a great solution for open structures that need shading. Girlish or wild grapes are used to decorate building facades, fences, hedges and, of course, balconies.

Here is a facade decor you can create with your own hands

Classification

The plant belongs to the class of vines and has a length of up to 15 meters. Depending on the variety, the leaves can have a different shape and color - from yellow to dark purple and crimson.

The most common are two classes - three-pointed and five-leafed grapes. The first has a resemblance to ivy and is well recognizable by its three-lobed multi-colored leaves.

Triostreny wild grapes

The five-leafed plant pleases with a green living curtain all summer and only in autumn acquires a bright red color. The leaves themselves have an oval five-pointed shape.

Growing grapes

The most comfortable conditions for grapes are northern, western or eastern balconies. Remember, he does not like direct sunlight, prefers shade or partial shade.

Each plant should have at least 3-4 m of free space. If you have determined the place of growth, you can start planting.

We will need:

  • seedling cup (paper, plastic or clay);
  • film to protect sprouts from wind and cold;
  • complex fertilizer;
  • pegs for the direction of growth;
  • rope net or netting;
  • garden tools.

When purchasing seedlings, look at the root system. If the roots of the plant look too small and are wrapped in polyethylene, refuse such a purchase. There is a high probability that a bush of grapes will not take root at all. Slightly higher price for plants in pots, but you will get a guarantee of survival.

In the photo - seedlings of wild grapes

Parthenocissus prefers soil rich in humus.. Initially, it is better to plant the cuttings in small containers, and after they get stronger, “relocate” to larger containers or open ground. The latter option will be relevant for those whose balcony is located on the ground floor.

Before growing a seedling, carry out kilchevanie cuttings, which contributes to the formation of heel roots

When preparing the soil, take in equal parts mature compost, meadow sandy and loamy soil, purchased peat universal substrate. This will be the optimal soil composition for grapes.

If the planting pot does not have drainage holes, fill the bottom with expanded clay, gravel, or crushed fragments of ceramic pots. The size of the drainage backfill should be at least 5-10 cm.

Girlish grapes in boxes and pots must have a thick layer of drainage

Dry knots, crushed leaves, a thin layer of manure or humus can also be placed on the bottom. Such a layer will be quite loose due to the air cavities necessary for the free germination of plant roots.

Growing grapes on a balcony is best done in tubs with a volume of at least 100-120 liters. At your choice, it can be a wooden box or a ceramic pot with a depth of 40 cm.

Even growing in a pot involves creating a reliable support.

For the first two years, the grapes will trail along single shoots with slight thin branches. To form a crown, immediately position the support. As the latter, a lattice of slats or a wide board with stuffed nails and stretched wire is suitable.

When the shoots reach the edge of the support, pinch them back for better branching.

Before the first wintering, the young shoots are cut in half, the tub is brought into a warm place, exposed in the spring and resumed normal care. For the next wintering, the plant does not move, but if necessary, the root system is insulated.

grape propagation

Wild grapes on the balcony are propagated by layering, seeds and cuttings.

Cutting propagation method

Reproduction method Instructions and recommendations
layering The simplest breeding method, however, it requires a lot of free space, which can not always be allocated in a typical balcony. The stem (up to 2 m) is dug into the ground in a wave-like manner, leaving a section on top until the next bud. The distance in this case is reduced to 15 cm. In the spring, rooted cuttings can be separated and transplanted.
seeds This generative method is the longest, so it is rarely used. In late autumn, seeds are obtained from the collected ripe berries, which are planted to a depth of 1 cm in a prepared nutrient substrate. The first sprouts can be expected at the end of next July.
cuttings The optimal breeding method for urban conditions. When carrying out planned spring pruning from adult branches, it is necessary to cut blanks 2-3 buds in size. Cuttings with leaves removed are placed 2/3 in water. With the appearance of the first roots (after 1-1.5 months), the plant can be planted.

Care rules

Watering and feeding

Proper planting and care can turn parthenocissus into a bonsai.

  • Watering is carried out at least once a week. To maintain a sufficient level of moisture, it is better to cover the ground in a pot with a loose layer of needles or tree bark. Do not be zealous when carrying out this work, otherwise the plant will be deprived of air exchange and mold will appear on the surface.
  • Top dressing is applied in the spring, using a solution of 50 grams of nitroammofoska. During active vegetation, the plant is best supported with organic fertilizers.

Annually, replace part of the earth in a tub with humus and manure. The procedure is best done in early spring.

  • Do not forget to gently loosen the earth, returning the opportunity to the roots to "breathe".
  • In order for the grapes to form the necessary shape, the young plant is tied to wooden pegs installed in the soil. As the crown forms, it is necessary to tighten the rope supports, which will allow the antennae to be fixed and climb up. In addition, do not forget about the periodic pruning of sluggish and dry branches.

Pest control

Grapes are quite resistant to pests and diseases. Most often you have to deal with such a scourge as aphids. In this situation, I recommend starting by washing the leaves with a solution of laundry soap or alcohol.

Summing up

On the landscaped balcony you can create a cozy place to relax

Girlish grapes on the balcony feel great in a private house and apartment, you just have to find a suitable place and a comfortable tub. Shade-loving plants and flowers can peacefully exist with him in the neighborhood: marigolds, ageratums, violas, nasturtiums, balsams, ever-flowering and tuberous begonias, choose the right company and go ahead for the right pot!

It remains for me to offer you a video in this article and wish you luck in balcony gardening. What is already growing on your balcony? Share your secrets with our readers.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!



  1. I grow girlish grapes, but it grows very slowly, it grows for 5 years, everything is one branch, and it grows every season, because. the former freezes over in winter. But I saw girlish grapes with friends, so their entire plot is planted with them, it grows quickly, long lashes grow over the summer, and my “poor” in one place everything “tramples”. Only I noticed one feature, my foliage is dark, and my friends are pale, maybe I have a different variety? Maybe someone will tell?

    Under the Russian name "Vinograd" three different genera of the Vinogradov family are often combined:

    grapes, vineyards and parthenocissus or parthenocissus.
    Each genus has a large number of species.
    girlish grapes includes about 10 species. For decorative purposes, 2 types are more often used:


  2. Liza85 said:

    And tell me what to do if you want to wrap around the wall of the house, and around the whole house there is a meter blind area?

    Put pergolas around the house). When the grapes grow - send it to the house.

  3. Registration: 11.03.08 Messages: 2.227 Thanks: 5.817

    You can make good deep and wide boxes for grapes, put them on the blind area near the walls of the house.

  4. Registration: 18.04.07 Messages: 17.863 Acknowledgments: 43.947

    In this case, will the roots be above the snow level in winter? Will they freeze right in the boxes?

    They will. But not to let them freeze is the task of those who want to grow these grapes. Easier to "spud" with snow))

  5. Registration: 27.10.08 Messages: 201 Acknowledgments: 418

    By the way, girlish grapes on a stem do not even look bad, and the “crown” can be formed at will. But support is needed! And if the vine of young grapes is whimsically tied, for example, in a knot or given any other shape, then over time (quickly enough, since the grapes grow well) you will get an original decoration of the garden even in winter! You can experiment and come up with some kind of bonsai! Good luck!

  6. Registration: 15.07.08 Messages: 327 Acknowledgments: 2.403

    For decorative purposes, 2 types are more often used: five-leafed and three-pointed. The latter is a frost-resistant species.

    You understand, there are many options, but unfortunately there are no photos.

    It is possible that you do not have Maiden grapes at all.

  7. Registration: 18.04.07 Messages: 17.863 Acknowledgments: 43.947

    I post a photo of my grapes. The quality, however, is not very good.

    Girlish, classic.)) He may just not like the place. And this happens)) He loves water very much, but in theory you should have plenty of it at your house. It can slow down for two years, but no more. In such cases, it is always said "look at the root."

  8. Registration: 18.04.08 Messages: 17.849 Acknowledgments: 46.652

    I grow girlish grapes, but it grows very slowly, it grows for 5 years, everything is one branch, and it grows every season, because. the former freezes over in winter.

    I post a photo of my grapes.

  9. Registration: 15.07.08 Messages: 327 Acknowledgments: 2.403

    You somehow described it very sadly. A very decent girlish grape, just still young. Is it possible that what is seen in the photo freezes over every year? Strange ... IMHO - should not!

    Imagine it freezes over every year. But I thought about the soil, it grows near the garage, and there is the south side, and it is always dry there ... the soil dries up very quickly, even after a good rain. So he needs to change his place!?

  10. Registration: 18.04.07 Messages: 17.863 Acknowledgments: 43.947

    A very decent girlish grape, just still young.

    5 years old is no longer young ... That's the point.

    So he needs to change his place!?

    My grapes grow in different conditions - there is one that grows in absolute shade on the north side of the house. But watered from the roof - mercilessly. Beast!)

  11. Registration: 18.04.08 Messages: 17.849 Acknowledgments: 46.652

    Or "get confused" with good watering, at least one year. Then it will grow on its own, get woody well - and have a great winter.

    Exactly! I grow in a very dry place, even when it rains it is very dry there. But for the first two years I wore it, watered it very well. I can't cut right now.

  12. Registration: 22.03.08 Messages: 55 Acknowledgments: 211

    BE CAREFUL!
    I completely agree with Dima Danilov (post number 74) - the roots of virgins. grapes are extremely aggressive! The sad experience of this summer: a two-year-old grape in 1.5-2 months "shot" the root by 3.5-4 meters, killing the rhubarb planted in the spring and already accepted along the way, climbed into the garden with bell pepper and half "devoured" it!
    In early spring, both the bed and the place for rhubarb were dug up on a bayonet, i.e. this root was not! Unfortunately, I could not even imagine what caused these troubles. I discovered it purely by accident, digging a birch weed on the side of the pepper, an incomprehensible slightly shaggy cord-like root, pulled out almost 2 meters! The root passed under the tomatoes and led me to the virgins. grapes. In the spring we will transplant it closer to the walnut - let the roots “butt” among themselves ... There are 5 “root” aggressors in our dacha: apricot, pomegranate, lilac, walnut and here’s another girl’s grape. Under them and weeds then hardly grow!
    The photo shows the fact of the oppression of bell pepper. In the far corner, you can even see a loosened trace from an elongated root.

  13. Registration: 01.06.08 Messages: 11 Acknowledgments: 30

    Here they wrote about the aggressiveness of the roots of grapes, and I have a flower bed with bulbs right next to the veranda. Is it possible to plant grapes in any containers, if so, what size containers should be for normal grape growth?

  14. Registration: 31.01.07 Messages: 278 Acknowledgments: 924

    Can. Minimum - 10-liter bucket.

Girlish grapes in your garden
Girlish grape five-leafed is an ideal plant for vertical gardening and decoration. Its branches can strengthen steep slopes. Often people are afraid to use the vine because of the risk of its uncontrolled growth. They are afraid that grapes can destroy the walls of a brick fence or the foundation of a building. In fact, the branches of grapes, on the contrary, protect the wall from destruction, from sudden changes in temperature, precipitation and strong winds.
Girlish grapes grow mainly by rooting branches bent to the ground, it has little root shoots. In order to prevent strong growth of grapes, you can dig limiters into the ground: pieces of slate, metal sheets, boards, or you can initially plant it in a limited space. For example, between the foundation of buildings and a fence or in a container.
Experienced plant collectors grow living movable walls from parthenocissus. They plant it in 30 liter containers. Poles 2 meters high are also installed near the containers at a distance of 2 meters. From above, a transverse beam is fixed between them. It turns out a two-by-two frame, a mesh of nylon threads is pulled onto this frame and branches of grapes are woven into the cells. A cord is passed along the upper edge of the net so that it can be easily removed from the supports, rolled up or straightened. It turns out a mobile screen. A few years later, when the grapes form a continuous green canvas, the entire structure is placed where there is a need for landscaping.

With the help of girlish grapes, you can create an aesthetically beautiful, pleasing to the eye landscape, reminiscent of the old garden of a Russian noble estate.
For the winter, containers are buried in the ground. The plant winters well without shelter and is decorative all season long. In autumn, the leaves turn scarlet, and bright dark blue inedible fruits hang from the branches.
Parthenocissus is a plant for those who want results to be seen here and now. It grows very quickly, and can rise to tens of meters in height, there would be a support. Mature plants practically do not require attention: they are drought-resistant, shade-tolerant and grow on any soil. The only thing that needs to be done is to carry out rejuvenating and sanitary pruning once a year. Don't be afraid to trim it too much, the vine will recover easily and look neat. Cut out old and weak shoots, as well as everything that seems superfluous to you. Take a look around, and you may have unsightly places that need to be effectively decorated.

How to decorate a toilet, a barn and a compost heap in the country?

Parthenocissus is a creeper with bright multi-colored leaves. The leaves can be red, and yellow, and green, and the berries are dark blue. The plant has a length of about 8-12 meters. Grown mainly on the balcony. Girlish grapes on the balcony are beautiful and original. The plant will decorate not only the balcony, but also the fence and even the wall of the house or cottage.

Parthenocissus is a creeper with bright multi-colored leaves. The leaves can be red, and yellow, and green, and the berries are dark blue.

Parthenocissus blooms in June and July, and the berries appear in early September. The tree bears fruit until October, depending on the climate.

Features of planting grapes

Girlish grapes grow either in the shade or in a semi-dark place.

The soil should be rich in organic matter, humus. The plant should not be planted too close to each other, at a distance of 3 meters.

To grow grapes you will need:

  • clay, cardboard or plastic cup for planting a grape sprout;
  • film to cover the pot from cold and wind;
  • shovel;
  • fertilizers;
  • garter ropes;
  • poles or pegs so that the plant grows in the right direction;
  • garden scissors for pruning vines in spring;
  • watering can.

Of course, to grow such an “exotic” fruit for most, you will need not only desire, but also a minimum of knowledge in the field of agricultural technology. You will also have to find seeds suitable for growing. For a window sill or balcony, varieties such as Taiga, Laura, Northern, Russian concord. Perfectly take root and grow "favorites" of children - Kish-mish, Victoria, Rapture(red or black) Chaush and some others. In principle, the importance of the variety is secondary if the seeds are taken from a strong vine, because the stronger the plant, the greater the resistance to various diseases and the less requirements for soil preparation and initial cultivation - the seed will do everything by itself with minimal labor. But do not forget about pollination, so self-pollinating varieties are suitable for the home, and only experienced gardeners can risk growing “heterogeneous” species.

There are very specific requirements for the soil: it should be loose, moist (but not raw). It is best to prepare the soil with your own hands: ignite clean river sand in a frying pan to destroy microflora, then mix with humus in a ratio of 1: 2. Also, sawdust should be attached to the soil, but not with it, but in a separate bag. Many people use this soil option for cuttings and seedlings: leaf humus, soddy soil, fine river sand and compost. In such a mixture (proportion 3: 3: 1: 2), the root system of young bushes develops best, but for seeds it is worth using the first option.

A minimum set of equipment is required: a small container from which watering will be carried out, a soil cultivator (an old unnecessary fork is also suitable), a spray gun, scissors.

For planting grapes at home, you can use both flower pots and containers right away. However, the latter are not needed in the first three years and turn out to be unnecessarily cumbersome, and due to the impossibility of properly irrigating such a large amount of soil, the risk of developing various diseases increases.

Preparing seeds or seedlings

You can plant a "bush" as cuttings, seedlings, and seeds. Cuttings are the most labor-intensive, but their viability is high. Seedlings are more convenient, because you do not have to deal with germinating seeds and caring for them. On the other hand, seedlings may turn out to be from material that you have not tested, and if they turn out to be unviable, then there is a risk of losing a whole year. Seeds can be collected independently, for which you need ripe and large berries of the desired variety. Seeds from them are washed until completely cleansed of the pulp under a stream of cool, but not cold water. Then they should be laid out on fabrics to remove excess moisture, then placed in bags and put in the refrigerator. About once every 7-10 days they must be taken out of the bag, washed, excess water removed again and placed back in storage in the refrigerator door.

With cuttings, everything is somewhat more complicated: they should be bought in the fall, when the crop is pruned. Acquired cuttings are disinfected with a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 10-20 seconds, after which they are sprinkled with sawdust of conifers (which are preliminarily scalded with boiling water and cooled to room temperature), placed in a bag and tied in several places with a thread. The cuttings should stick out of the package by no more than 5 cm, but not less than 3. Then the package is placed in a refrigerator on a shelf with a temperature of 0 ... + 2 gr. C. Once every 1.5 months they are taken out of the bag, the sawdust is changed, the blackened cuttings are thrown out.

Seedlings are the simplest option, since it is enough just to purchase them by the time of planting and plant them in pre-prepared soil. But their obvious shortcomings have already been cited above.

We plant grapes in the apartment - the first steps

Before planting future bushes, preparatory work should be done. With seeds - get them from the storage place. Around mid-February, their skin will burst, indicating readiness for germination. It should be produced as follows: remove the seeds from the bag, carefully sprinkle on a damp cloth and place for about four days in a warm place. Care should be taken to keep the fabric wet, which may require the addition of water. By the fourth day, the first rudiments of roots should erupt, respectively, it is time to plant the seeds in pots. For each seed, a 3-5 liter pot containing drainage is allocated.

The cuttings are prepared in this way: around the twentieth of February, the bark of the cuttings at the base is cut. If greenery is visible under the bark, then everything is in order - the stalk is alive. If the color varies from black or gray to beige, then there is nothing to plant. The selected material is sent for further preparation: the stalk is cut into short twigs, each of which should have 2-3 buds. The upper cut is straight, 20-30 mm away from the kidney, the lower one is oblique, 10-20 mm away from the kidneys. The resulting rods are soaked in melt water (the snow should be taken clean, it is advisable to collect it away from the roads) for two days.

The container is placed on the windowsill, and some natural growth stimulants can be added to the water, primarily honey or sodium humate. Drying before planting is an important element. It takes no more than a quarter to half an hour, it is made on a dry cloth. Do not wipe the cuttings, just spread them out.

Rooting can be done in water, and not in the ground, as well as in sawdust. However, the latter method is rather radical and, with the slightest mistake, can destroy the future vine. In water, the root is germinated as follows: cotton wool is placed in a glass container, into which charcoal and two granules of potassium permanganate are added.

A cutting is placed in the cotton wool, after which water is poured to a level that completely hides it. The neck of the container is tightly covered with polyethylene and the resulting kind of greenhouse is placed on the windowsill of the south window. Water will have to be added periodically, and if a strong branch appears, then it will have to be carefully removed, otherwise all the forces will go into it, and not into the roots. Transplantation into the ground is carried out with a root length of 5-10 mm.

Seedlings are immediately ready for planting. They are transferred carefully, from the pot in which they are purchased, they should be removed so as not to damage the delicate root system.

Vine care

Growing grapes at home in the first year of the life of the vine will require a lot of labor so as not to destroy the plant. First of all, it is worth considering that the grapes are quite photophilous, and it should be placed on the south side, but the pot itself will have to be shaded. Watering is frequent, with settled water, if the batteries are “fried”, the air in the house is dry, or the summer turned out to be extremely hot, then the intensity of watering can reach up to two times a day. But do not flood the plant, as young roots can rot.

Once every three weeks, it is worth applying nitrogen fertilizers until the first fruiting (early summer), however, with the advent of clusters, it is worth changing the selected top dressing to a complex one and using it twice a month. With the end of this period, you should switch back to nitrogen. Considering that grapes at home can bear fruit twice a year, complex fertilizers will also be used. After top dressing, the soil is carefully loosened. Loosening is also done between waterings, once every five to seven days.

Regardless of the climate, one should resort to highlighting the bushes, for which fluorescent lamps are placed above them. LB-20 or analogues are best suited, since the intensity of the light flux and light temperature is sufficient for both confident growth and good fruiting.

The growth of the vine is limited: someone at two meters, someone at one. The optimal limit is 1.5 meters. In order to properly limit the growth of the vine, you should choose the strongest shoot, cut its tip into 2-3 buds, and simply cut off the rest. But this should be done only after the foliage has fallen off and the plant has gone into hibernation.

Every year, the grapes will need more and more soil and therefore will have to be transplanted into ever larger containers, however, the maximum required size (for a 3-year-old or more bush) is 500x500x500. Every year the volume of humus decreases, and the land increases. But you won’t have to get rid of sand, since it will be the only optimal soil baking powder.

The bush should be formed from the very first shoots - this is necessary to increase the yield. Proper formation consists in pinching emerging branches, especially fruit-bearing ones, and timely removal of excess ones. Pinching is carried out above the sheet, the fifth in a row from the brush. There should be no more than one brush per shoot - this should be carefully monitored, otherwise you risk getting small and not sweet berries. The vine is cut in such a way that a replacement shoot can appear nearby. With this alternation (shoot-vine-shoot-vine), the bush will be the most fruitful and viable.

It is also worth remembering that immediately after the completion of fruiting, the plant goes into a state of rest, respectively, it will have to be transferred from the south side to the north, to the coolest place.