Make a carpenter's scriber yourself manufacturing steps. Carpentry feature. An easy way to make a scriber yourself

Promotional set: carpenter's line Veritas Log Scriber 05u05.01 and a set of pencils, 10 pieces
A real bestseller!

Promotion Description :
"Master's Arsenal" offers in an advantageous set: the bestseller carpenter's line Veritas Log Scriber 05u05.01 and a set of pencils, 10 pieces at half price.
Promotion period: while stocks last.

art Ver 05U0501
carpentry trait designed for marking parallel lines, for drawing logs to each other, marking grooves when cutting log cabins.
This trait can be used with two for double marking, or with a steel needle on one leg for smooth marking.

Contents of delivery :

Art. No. Ver 83U0120 or Ver 83U0116

Manufactured by Veritas (Canada).

Based in Ottawa, Canada, Veritas is a world leader in innovative design woodworking tools and is a manufacturing division of Lee Valley Tools, a leading North American retail chain. hand tools. Designs and manufactures instruments since 1982. Today, the Veritas product range includes 250 items and more than 100 patents, including planes, sharpeners, marking and measuring tools, and more to meet the needs of discerning joiners.

Recommendation "Arsenal Master" :
Carpenter's line (Scriber) Veritas - a real bestseller! Recommended for purchase, available in warehouses in Moscow, St. Petersburg and Nizhny Novgorod, we will deliver throughout Russia.

How to buy: click the "add to cart" button. In the shopping cart, click "Checkout" and fill in your contact details, your payment and delivery options. Within a working day after receiving your order, the manager of "Arsenal Master" will call you, approve and agree on all the details of the execution of the order. You can also place an order by calling 8-800-7000-462 (toll-free within Russia) or by email[email protected]

Feedback from buyers and owners :

In construction, the carpenter's trait (called a "scriber" in modern format) is essential. Without a line, it is problematic to organize sawing logs or the production of building forms. A scriber is needed for marking on a wooden surface. The markup can be straight, curvilinear, consisting of several parallel lines. We take one board, remove the edge from it, which will be needed in order to obtain a line line for cutting already on the next strip - this strip leans against the 1st. The line is applied precisely due to the carpenter's line.

How to quickly make a scriber with your own hands

You should have the following list of things on hand:

1. Ordinary hammer;
2. Welding tool;
3. Drill, drills (tools must be able to handle metal)
4. Hacksaw for metal;
5. Bulgarian (there must be a cutting and grinding wheel);
6. Files, taps and dies;
7. Levels - horizontal and vertical (old building levels);
8. Plumb.

No specific materials are needed for a carpenter's compass. You will only have to spend money on various nuts and washers if you do not have such things in the house of the appropriate size.

TO hand scissors bolt heads need to be welded on. Pencil and needle attachment required. In this case, the thread at the ends of the bolt comes to the rescue.

First you need to make a needle, after a nest to install it. When making a pencil mount, make sure the stylus will fit into the mount. The levels noted above are for vial flasks.

The amount of dilution of the pencil and needle should be as accurate as possible. For this purpose, we use an adjustment bar. You can securely fix the bar with the help of nuts. To fix the compass in the extended position, a clamp is used, with which the bolts and washers do an excellent job. You need a mounting platform - this way you can fix the levels. The pencil lead may be damaged during work. There is a chance that the compass will go astray when you re-erect it. This problem is solved using a special template. This design is made using a head and a screwdriver. An alternative method is to use not a pencil, but an additional needle.

An easy way to make a scriber yourself

The key tool at hand is a wire with an exceptionally thick diameter. You can also use a method that involves driving 2 guests of sufficient length into a good wooden handle. Definitely need a locksmith's compasses. To make the drawing as correct as possible, the distance between the teeth of the tool cannot be increased. But if you are a beginner, it is difficult to follow these rules without work experience.

Why do you need a scriber?

This term refers to a compass of mechanical action. It has a built-in corner, due to which you can achieve the correct marking of the line (it does not matter if it is vertical or horizontal). If you use the scriber correctly, then as a result there will not be the slightest free distance between the logs.

Why is a scriber not exactly a carpentry trait? Because the "fresh" tool has two levels. They were decided to implement due to significant time savings. If earlier it was necessary to make a rough line, then with the advent of the scriber, you can immediately proceed to the final correct markup. The term "scriber" comes from Canada. But in Russia, the improved carpenter's feature is still called the carpenter's compass. However, on technical specifications different terminology does not affect in any way.

A scriber is a carpenter's marking tool that replaced the carpenter's line.
This is a tool for drawing crowns in the process of felling log cabins. Drawing logs requires skill, since the quality of cutting a log house depends on the hardness of the hand. For the accuracy of the “landing” of the upper crown, the line must be drawn evenly and without deviations from the horizontal and vertical. With the SCRIBER, deviation from the horizontal and vertical planes can now be controlled visually. This allows, with a careful approach, to do just one drawing

Complete weight:
450 grams
Equipped with level:
type 2D (cross spirit level, 1 vertical and 1 horizontal)
Dimensions:
length 270 mm; width 190 mm; thickness 40 mm.
Works on solution:
from 24 to 360 mm Main details: “legs” are made of aluminum alloy which are heat-treated (increased strength) and covered with anodizing - anti-corrosion coating. The rest were made of structural steel and coated with an anti-corrosion coating - zinc. The repeat holders rotate on thermoplastic washers, greatly reducing friction when turning. The design of the holders allows you to work with pencils and Fisher rods. Manufacturing technology using programmable machines allows you to get accurate parts, which in turn guarantees high marking accuracy.
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When cutting a log house, it is necessary to strive to ensure that the gaps between the logs on the sealing grooves and cups are as small as possible. It directly depends on how warm the house will be and how much moss and tow will be needed to caulk the cracks. No two logs are the same, each log in a log house is unique, so you cannot create a single template for marking all logs at once. This is possible only if you have to work with material that is planed to a single size, such as, for example, rounded timber. But with the "wild forest" it is impossible to do this, and each log has to be approached individually.

The most important place in the arsenal of a carpentry tool, along with an ax and a scraper, is occupied by a trait. The dash is for marking corner connections in a log house (cups) and longitudinal grooves in logs (dales). Also for marking blocks and boards, for their tight fit to each other. The earliest finds of features in Veliky Novgorod date back to the 11th century ( Ancient Rus'. City, Castle, Village).

By design, the features are very simple: it is either a metal plate with triangular cuts at the ends,

or a two-pronged fork with curved ends,

or a forged metal bar in two.

The line can be bent, for example, from a thick wire,

or simply drive two nails into a wooden handle at an angle. Also, instead of a line, you can use a metal compass.

The smaller the distance between the teeth of the line, the greater the accuracy of the markup. Marking with a dash requires some skill.

When drawing the teeth, the lines must be strictly oriented horizontally and vertically, any deviation, collapse gives an error in the markup, due to which the log either does not fit into the groove, or vice versa, a gap is formed. Accurate marking skills come with experience, but progress does not stand still, and the classic carpentry line is replaced by a new, accurate tool - the scriber.

In fact, this is a mechanical compass on which the level is set. The level helps to keep the line strictly horizontal and vertical planes, thanks to which errors are avoided, and the markup is very accurate. From personal experience working with a scriber, I can notice that the accuracy of planting logs is so great that a match cannot fit between them. But since our task is to build reconstructions of houses for the Seven in the Past project, we have to use the traditional tool!

It consists in the fact that the location of the logs must correspond to the order - "butt to the top." The natural structure of the logs is such that they become thinner towards the top. To the walls of the future log house were even, it is necessary to alternate the arrangement of logs, in other words, a log with a thin end should be followed by a log with a thick end.

The second principle of stacking logs is that the lower log is stacked with a hump up, and the upper log, with a hump down. After marking and sampling longitudinal groove you will get a parallel arrangement of logs relative to the longitudinal axes. All rows must be laid, adhering to just such a sequence, so that the most even wall is obtained.

To mark the corner bowls and the longitudinal groove, a special tool is used, which is called the "line". It is quite possible to make such a tool yourself from improvised means. To do this, you need to take a thick wire about 10 mm in diameter. Next, it needs to be bent with the letter V, the length of each side should be about 10-15 cm.

The ends of the legs need to be sharpened so that they leave a mark on the wood, scratching it. The resulting tool can be attached to some handle, which can be used as an ordinary stick or hammer handle. To prevent the sides of the tool from moving apart in width, you need to install a wedge between them and wrap them with some kind of cord.

The company "Drevo" is engaged in the construction of houses from hand-cut logs professionally, and therefore our specialists use a professional carpentry "line" for marking. In Europe, a "line" is called a "scriber".

An image of a carpenter's "feature" you can see on fig.1

A professional carpentry "feature" is quite expensive, this is due to its complex device and equipment. Levels are built into the professional carpenter's "line", which enable carpenters to maintain an even vertical position when marking. The entire construction of the log house depends on how correctly the work with the “line” takes place. If you only plan to build one house, then you can not buy a tool for a high cost, instead you can use a level and an ordinary carpenter's compass. Of course, such a work process will take more time, but if the construction time is not critical, then this is quite acceptable.

How to use the "dash" ("scriber")

For correct application markings, logs must be laid one on top of the other (not forgetting the rule “butt to the top”), then fastened with brackets. Given the region in which the construction of the log house takes place, the width of the future groove is determined. A mark is placed at the end of the log, the distance from the bottom point of the log to this mark must correspond to the width of the longitudinal groove. Then one leg of the instrument is moved to this mark, and the second is moved to the top of the hump. Thus, we prepared the "line" for work by setting the required interval between the legs of the tool.

Having fixed the legs of the “feature”, we put one leg at the height of our mark, and the other on the surface of the hump of another log, we draw a line. Thus, the second leg of the tool creates a line that repeats the line of the longitudinal groove of the first log. Subsequently, for convenience, the markup can be additionally highlighted with a pencil. The marking must be applied on both sides of the logs, without changing the "line" setting. This completes the marking of the longitudinal groove.

On fig.2 You can see the layout of the longitudinal groove.

Now let's start creating a longitudinal groove. Outlining the log, we can see the resulting groove, it has a rounded shape, repeating the run of the log.

The log run is a smooth change in the diameter of the log from the butt to the top.

Thus, all slots will alternate side of the slope. This method can only be used when working with logs that have little or no runoff slope, when the log has practically cylindrical shape. Or it is applicable to logs that are calibrated and have approximately the same thickness at the cut. In this case, the slope of the grooves does not matter.

Logs of different thickness, on which there is a run, need to be drawn to each other in a slightly different way. The lower log must be installed on special stands so that the hump is as level as possible with the horizon, after which the log is fixed with brackets. The upper log is placed so that its butt is located in the direction of the narrow part of the lower log. In the process of delineation, it is necessary to observe the vertical arrangement of the legs of the “feature”, only thanks to this it is possible to achieve an even groove with a changing width.

If you mark the groove incorrectly, this will lead to the so-called “kiss” - the edge of one log will only slightly touch the end of the other. Of course, in this case, we are not talking about the thermal properties of the log house, nor about the required width of the longitudinal groove. Thus, one after another, all the logs are stacked and marked up to the very top, until all the grooves are horizontal.

After the drawing is completed, the log is removed from the brackets and turned up with the side on which the markup is applied. Next, the selection itself is made. The carpenters of the "Drevo" company, when sampling, use a chainsaw, making many cuts across the log, moving along the entire length of the trunk, deepening the saw to the depth of the future groove. The specialists of the company "Drevo" do not recommend cutting to the full depth of the groove, and leave from half to one centimeter and then refine it manually. This can extend the life of your building.

To clean the groove, a tool called an "adze" is used. This is an ax in which the sharpened surface is directed across the handle, and not along the length of an ordinary ax. There are two types of adze: small and large. Work with a large adze occurs while standing, hewing the surface strong blows. They can immediately start creating a groove, without using an ax.

For further refinement of the logs, a small adze is used. When the groove is cut, it remains to check how well the logs fit together. To do this, a special coloring composition is applied to the upper part of the lower log, then a log with a cut groove is applied on top. After such a fitting, it will be seen how the coloring pigment has soiled the cut-out groove. Those felling areas that remained clean indicate that they were not touched by the surface of the lower hump.

So you need to remove excess wood, which interferes with the contact of the remaining sections of the groove. Thus, it is necessary to gradually bring the groove until it is completely smeared with pigment. There is another way to check how well the groove is made. For him, you need to take a piece of a log, about one meter in length, and knock it on the logs that are connected.

After that, they remove the log in which the groove is made and see which places in the groove are jammed. In these places there is excess wood that needs to be removed and the procedure repeated again. The bar with which the log is tapped must be made of soft wood so as not to wrinkle the front surface of the log.