How to prepare a hydrangea for winter: shelter and pruning of hydrangeas for the winter. Personal experience. How to cover a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter

Hydrangea is good even in autumn. Some species retain inflorescences up to late autumn. And how beautiful are the hydrangea bushes with large burgundy leaves! Unfortunately, not all species are winter-hardy and can overwinter in open field without reliable insulation.

The most popular types of hydrangeas

treelike And paniculate hydrangea grow in many areas. They overwinter in open ground without much loss. Huge bunches of flowers tree hydrangeas remain on the bushes until the very end of autumn. True, they are no longer as white or light cream as before. Their color has a greenish tinge. Inflorescences fluff up and increase in size by autumn. It is a pity to cut them off, although it is time to prepare the bushes for the winter.

In paniculate hydrangeas, white, cream or pinkish inflorescences are conical in shape. In autumn, white inflorescences turn pink (less often they can remain white-cream). Some panicled hydrangeas have more pink hue in inflorescences than others. Sometimes rusty nails are specially buried in the ground under paniculate hydrangea bushes so that the inflorescences become intense pink. In autumn, heavy broad-pyramidal hydrangea inflorescences paniculate variety'Vanilla Freize' turns pink-red. For the winter, it is better to sprinkle the ground under treelike and paniculate hydrangeas with peat, to which loose garden soil is added. These species are lovers of acidic and slightly acidic soils. For the winter they can not be covered. Except where the snow is blown by the wind. Then the branches are bent and covered.

Large-leaved hydrangeas, or garden, have huge flat or spherical inflorescences. White, crimson, pink, blue and even blue. This view is trickier. In the Moscow region, it is safer to grow them in pots, which are transferred to cool rooms in winter. Large-leaved hydrangeas can also winter in open ground if they are well insulated. So that the bushes do not suffer from decay. Large-leaved hydrangeas also grow on slightly alkaline soils, so you can add ordinary garden soil to them.

There are other, not so popular types. I have winter without any shelter petiolate And oakleaf hydrangea. True, they grow in those places where a lot of snow accumulates in winter, but melt water does not stagnate. Fast-growing creepers of petiolate hydrangea are suitable for decorating arbors, they can climb buildings and climb tall trees. If there is no support nearby, then the shoots spread along the ground. In the shade, the petiolate hydrangea blooms worse than in the sun or in partial shade. The oak-leaved hydrangea is decorated with both inflorescences and beautiful large "rough" leaves, resembling oak ones in shape. In autumn they turn purple. White inflorescences, which turn intensely pink at the end of summer, do not last long in autumn. You have to cut them off. At the end of autumn, I tie the branches so that they do not break off under a heavy snowdrift. These hydrangeas can be sprinkled with loam mixed with peat and humus, or ordinary garden soil. With age, the winter hardiness of these types of hydrangeas increases markedly.

When to plant?

I try not to plant hydrangea seedlings in the fall. The only exception is a transplant, when it is inevitable. It is better to leave young plants in the school. Newly acquired seedlings can be moved to a cool place in the house and planted on permanent place already in the spring. In the southern regions they are planted in the fall. Many roots are located at the very surface of the soil, so the bush is not buried when planting.

When to prune hydrangeas?

Without pruning, the bushes of treelike and paniculate hydrangeas “swing out” and bloom worse over time, their inflorescences become smaller. In autumn, I cut off only the upper part of the shoots, remove all inflorescences. I do the main pruning in the spring, during the swelling of the kidneys. Then you can see which parts of the shoots are frozen and which are alive. I start by thinning out the bush, removing broken, old shoots lying on the ground and thickening the crown. I leave no more than 12 strong shoots, which I greatly shorten (up to 2/3 of the height). In these species, inflorescences appear on the shoots of the current year, which justifies a bold pruning. A completely different approach to large-leaved hydrangeas. This species blooms on last year's shoots. They are protected and cut out only by the oldest branches and thickening shoots. It is important not to remove the upper buds. I form oak-leaved hydrangea and petiole by removing broken, dried and thickening shoots. I do this in the spring, when the state of the bushes is clearly visible.

Wintering of large-leaved hydrangeas

Large-leaved hydrangeas that remain on the site for the winter must be thoroughly insulated. Lapnik and (or). The branches are pre-stretched with ropes. Better yet, pin the bushes to the ground. Those large-leaved hydrangeas that winter in the ground bloom in the second half of summer. Large-leaved hydrangeas growing in flower pots bloom much earlier.

I grow such a hydrangea, brought from Svetlogorsk (Kaliningrad region), in flower pot. For the summer I dig it into the ground, for the winter I take it to a semi-dark basement. Even near Kaliningrad, where the climate is milder, these hydrangeas freeze out in some winters. Until February, a pot with a bush prepared for wintering stands in the basement at an air temperature of plus 5 - 6 ° C. I reduce watering, but do not allow the soil to dry out. In February, I put the hydrangea on the windowsill. I am waiting for the awakening of the kidneys and the growth of basal shoots. Already in - all inflorescences bloom. You can postpone flowering to a later date. To do this, leave pots with large-leaved hydrangeas in the basement (or other cool, dark room) until May. Such bushes will bloom only by mid-summer.

The color of the inflorescences of large-leaved hydrangeas varies depending on the acidity of the soil. In acidic soil pink flowers become blue, in neutral or slightly alkaline soil they turn pink. In the Kaliningrad region, there are many bushes of large-leaved hydrangeas, in which some of the inflorescences are blue in color, and some are pink. Previously, the soil was acidified with alum. Now there are special fertilizers for hydrangeas that affect color. The woman from whom I bought a seedling of my hydrangea said that for the blue color she acidifies the soil with water in which peat is soaked for several days. Pink inflorescences of large-leaved hydrangea are obtained when the bush grows on the sand.

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In our climate, almost all perennial horticultural crops need insulation, which is usually done just before the frost. As for panicle hydrangea, opinions vary greatly. The fact is that the area of \u200b\u200bits natural growth is regions with relatively low temperatures, and even with their sharp drops, combined with high humidity. For example, Far East, Japan, China. Therefore, it is referred to the group of frost-resistant plants. Hence the disputes over the question - is it worth covering the hydrangea for the winter or can this procedure be neglected.

In nature, there are about 80 species of this flower. Categorization is rather complicated, but this is not the main thing - only a few representatives of the dicotyledonous class are cultivated on the territory of the Russian Federation. One of them is panicle hydrangea. Her inflorescences white color, which eventually acquires a pinkish tint, which is why paniculate hydrangea is often called pink.

Unlike other varieties, panicle hydrangea tolerates temperatures down to -35 ºС, but this is provided that it is reliably protected from the wind. In addition, the buds from which the buds then develop are formed on one-year-old sprouts that appear in the spring of the current year. Therefore, the peculiarity of the shelter is to protect, first of all, its root system from freezing.

Any plant, even securely sheltered for the winter, is unlikely to successfully endure the cold period if it is weakened by autumn and, moreover, is affected by some pest. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare hydrangea for winter ahead of time. As a rule, experienced gardeners start doing this from mid-summer, regardless of the climate in the region.

Completely switch to fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium. Fertilizing based on nitrogen and its compounds should be discarded. The explanation is simple - they reduce the frost resistance of the plant and initiate the growth of young shoots. Neither panicle hydrangea, as you might guess, is not necessary on the eve of winter.
With the onset of autumn, watering the flower must be stopped. This is necessary for the speedy lignification of all branches that will overwinter.
At the same time, leaves are removed. When to do this, it is not difficult to determine if you understand the meaning of this agrotechnical event. Moisture “leaves” (evaporates) through the leaves of the plant, and if they are left for the winter, dehydration of the wood will occur.

It is advisable to get rid of greenery at the end of the rainy period. But this applies only to the branches of the lower rows, since this procedure speeds up the process of their lignification. Before frosts, all the rest are removed for the reason that it is on the leaves that they often settle garden pests which will safely (if the greens are left) overwinter with hydrangea. Naturally, if it is completely covered.

There are recommendations that the leaves from the tops of the shoots do not need to be touched, since they serve as a kind of protection for the places where flower buds subsequently form. In this case, the authors confuse plant varieties. Hydrangea paniculata differs in that the most developed (and therefore promising) buds are located in areas from the trunk to the center of the branches. It is from them that, at the end of winter, those shoots appear, on which buds subsequently bloom. Therefore, if the tops freeze, then this will in no way affect the flowering of hydrangeas next year. Moreover, at spring pruning, in the process of crown formation, they are usually removed.

Ways to shelter for the winter

The decision on the advisability of holding this event is made by the owner of the site himself, based on the characteristics of the climate, as well as the level of ventilation of the territory. There is no point in explaining that high humidity and a strong side wind, even with slight frosts, the hydrangea can die during the winter. Moreover, it is important what given flower- bush or tree. After all, the height of the last variety reaches 2.5 - 3 m, and in some specimens - 8, or even 10.

Hilling

The most simple technology known to all gardeners. This forethought helps protect trunk circle from freezing. What to use?

Experienced gardeners recommend hilling with a mixture of land from the site and peat. Fertilizer not only insulates the soil, but also gives it good nourishment when warm days come. Part of the melt water, penetrating deep into the ground, supplies the root system with the necessary nutrients. In this case, the process of fertilizing in the spring is greatly simplified.

Recommendations for using fallen leaves, grass, haulm, straw, sawdust to cover the bottom of the hydrangea, although they are often found on separate sites, are hardly correct. There are several reasons for abandoning this method of hiding.

First, when wet, the vegetation begins to rot. As a result, mold and fungus, which will immediately spread to panicled hydrangea.
Secondly, it is in such a mass that small rodents like to settle for the winter.
Thirdly, on the same old leaves there are always various garden pests (or their larvae). That is why one of the most common tips for beginner summer residents is that all plant debris collected on the territory must be immediately disposed of through incineration.

If the pruning of hydrangeas on the eve of winter is low enough, and the total height of the bush is small, then it is advisable to pour an earthen lump with the expectation that it completely covers the stems rising above the ground.

Hilling + sheltering branches

This is the most common technique, since in most regions the temperature drops quite low in winter.

How to cover branches:

If they are not particularly long, then it is enough to tie them, and insulate the resulting “cocoon” suitable material. The choice is large - old tree branches, spruce branches, roofing felt (covered with polyethylene film). Everything else will be provided by snow crust - this is the most reliable natural "blanket" for any plant in winter.
With a significant length of the stems, the branches will have to be bent as close to the ground as possible. This makes hiding them much easier. The process is simple, the main thing is to securely fix them so that they cannot straighten up during the winter (for example, in strong winds).

First way. "Pin" the tops of the shoots with metal staples. They are easy to make from pieces of thick wire. The only thing to consider is that these fixation elements must have long “antennae”, otherwise they will not be firmly held by the ground and will pop out of it relatively easily.

The second way. Put a piece of board on the ground, in which (with reverse side) nails are driven in. Here, to their protruding tips, the branches are tied up.

It remains only to securely cover the hydrangea on top. What is already noted.

It is more difficult with adult bushes, the branches of which are difficult to bend down due to their considerable thickness, and therefore poor compliance. In this case, it is advisable to make a complete shelter with some kind of insulating sheet. Experienced gardeners recommend focusing on lutrasil, spunbond or something similar. These materials are specially designed to protect plants from the "surprises" of the weather, including frost. Sold in several versions, so best option pick up is easy.

With this method, the panicled hydrangea is completely “wrapped” in the canvas. So that the dome does not fall apart from the wind and snow load, it is tied (with adhesive tape, rope), after which it is additionally (and it is desirable to do this!) frame structure. It can be built from metal arcs, mesh. The point is that then it is covered with a polyethylene film, and the resulting air gap (it is enough to organize it in 10 - 15 cm) between the polyethylene sheath and the inner protective layer provides more reliable insulation. For regions with frosty winters - the best option for sheltering a plant.

Panicled hydrangea adapts quite well to growing conditions. Planted on the site, it gradually adapts to the characteristics of the local climate. This means that as it grows, the method of sheltering a plant can be simplified over time. But if we are talking about a young hydrangea, then it is better to cover it according to the “full program”. This ensures that she will endure all the "surprises" of the weather safely.

Many summer residents believe that hydrangea is a rather capricious plant and that it definitely needs a good winter shelter. This assumption is indeed true, but only partly. It spreads mainly to large-leaved varieties of this plant. Paniculata and tree hydrangea in middle lane Russians winter well without shelters at all.

Shelter for the winter tree hydrangea

Tree-like hydrangea (with corymbose white inflorescences of a greenish tint) should be covered for the winter only if the plant is young. Most varieties of this variety tolerate our winter well without any additional shelters, however, relatively recently appeared on our market large-flowered varieties for the winter you need to at least spud well. At the same time, you should not worry about the upper parts of the plant at all, since the flowers of the tree-like hydrangea appear only on the young shoots of the new season (even if last year's shoots freeze, nothing bad will happen). In late autumn, it is recommended to remove non-lignified parts of shoots and inflorescences from such plants, since in any case they do not overwinter, but can accumulate large masses of snow on themselves, which can damage the plant.

Shelter for the winter panicled hydrangea

A larger paniculate hydrangea does not need to be covered for the winter. It is enough just to secure the root system by sprinkling it a little with garden soil. Also late autumn it is necessary to prune, as with a tree hydrangea.

Shelter for the winter of large-leaved hydrangea

One of the most capricious is the large-leaved macrophylla hydrangea. If you neglect shelter, consider that you will not see blue and pink inflorescences next year. This variety looks very beautiful during flowering, and therefore flower growers make every effort to protect flower buds.

To shelter hydrangeas, multidirectionally growing shoots are collected in groups (in each there are those that grow in approximately the same direction), bent to the ground and fixed. Do not be afraid of fractures, as hydrangea shoots are quite flexible. From above, the plant bent in this way is covered nonwoven fabric(for example, agrospan or lutrasil). On top of it they throw dry foliage that has fallen from healthy trees, and cover plastic wrap(to prevent wetting). Do not be afraid that under such shelters the hydrangea bushes will get wet.

Shelter should be removed no earlier than the end of April-beginning of May, when the threat of returning night frosts has passed.

Particular attention should be paid to the first wintering of a young hydrangea, regardless of its variety. Toward the end of autumn, cut the seedling to 8 cm (all leaves must be removed). Fill the bush with a dense layer of peat or dry foliage to its entire height, lay several spruce branches on top of the leaves, and cover the cover with plastic wrap on top (do not forget to strengthen it with stones on the sides).

Hydrangea is good even in autumn. Some species retain inflorescences until late autumn. And how beautiful are the hydrangea bushes with large burgundy leaves! Unfortunately, not all species are winter-hardy and can overwinter in open ground without reliable insulation.

THE MOST POPULAR HYDROANGIA TYPES

treelike And paniculate hydrangea grow in many areas. They overwinter in open ground without much loss. Huge armfuls of inflorescences of tree-like hydrangeas remain on the bushes until the very end of autumn. True, they are no longer as white or light cream as before. Their color has a greenish tinge. Inflorescences fluff up and increase in size by autumn. It is a pity to cut them off, although it is time to prepare the bushes for the winter.

In paniculate hydrangeas, white, cream or pinkish inflorescences are conical in shape. In autumn, white inflorescences turn pink (less often they can remain white-cream). Some panicled hydrangeas have more pink hue in inflorescences than others. Sometimes rusty nails are specially buried in the ground under paniculate hydrangea bushes so that the inflorescences become intense pink. In autumn, the heavy, wide-pyramidal inflorescences of the Vanilla Freize paniculate hydrangea turn pink-red. For the winter, it is better to sprinkle the ground under treelike and paniculate hydrangeas with peat, to which loose garden soil is added. These species are lovers of acidic and slightly acidic soils. For the winter they can not be covered. Except where the snow is blown by the wind. Then the branches are bent and covered with spruce branches.

WHEN TO PLANT?

I try not to plant hydrangea seedlings in the fall. The only exception is a transplant, when it is inevitable. It is better to leave young plants in the school. Newly acquired seedlings can be moved to a cool place in the house and planted in a permanent place in the spring. In the southern regions they are planted in the fall. Many roots are located at the very surface of the soil, so the bush is not buried when planting.

WHEN TO CUT HYDROANGIAS?

WINTERING LARGE-LEAVED HYDENSIAS

Large-leaved hydrangeas that remain on the site for the winter must be thoroughly insulated. Lapnik and (or) dense non-woven material. The branches are pre-stretched with ropes. Better yet, pin the bushes to the ground. Those large-leaved hydrangeas that winter in the ground bloom in the second half of summer. Large-leaved hydrangeas growing in flower pots bloom much earlier.

I grow such a hydrangea, brought from Svetlogorsk (Kaliningrad region), in a flower pot. For the summer I dig it into the ground, for the winter I take it to a semi-dark basement. Even near Kaliningrad, where the climate is milder, these hydrangeas freeze out in some winters. Until February, a pot with a bush prepared for wintering stands in the basement at an air temperature of plus 5 - 6 ° C. I reduce watering, but do not allow the soil to dry out. In February, I put the hydrangea on the windowsill. I am waiting for the awakening of the kidneys and the growth of basal shoots. Already in April - May, all inflorescences bloom. You can postpone flowering to a later date. To do this, leave pots with large-leaved hydrangeas in the basement (or other cool, dark room) until May. Such bushes will bloom only by mid-summer.

The color of the inflorescences of large-leaved hydrangeas varies depending on the acidity of the soil. In acidic soil, pink flowers turn blue; in neutral or slightly alkaline soil, they turn pink. In the Kaliningrad region, there are many bushes of large-leaved hydrangeas, in which some of the inflorescences are blue in color, and some are pink. Previously, the soil was acidified with alum. Now there are special fertilizers for hydrangeas that affect color. The woman from whom I bought a seedling of my hydrangea said that for the blue color she acidifies the soil with water in which peat is soaked for several days. Pink inflorescences of large-leaved hydrangea are obtained when the bush grows on the sand.

Hydrangea is considered a winter-hardy species. Breeders and authors of varieties claim that the plant can withstand temperatures from -20 to -30 degrees Celsius. A decent experience in growing an exotic elegant shrub has been accumulated. In the conditions of the North-West, the Urals, not to mention the Moscow region, even non-insulated specimens winter well.

At the same time, the sad practice of many hydrangea lovers suggests that the shrub often freezes out in relatively warm weather - as little as 15-20 degrees below zero. Similar incidents happen in the southern regions, even in the Black Sea region. Probably, every case of plant death is caused by objective reasons. This article may be useful to those who want to understand the problem and achieve results.

Varieties are different, the problem is one

The literature provides various ways warming hydrangeas. Some operations must be performed for all species, some - only for certain varieties.

There is a difference between the types of hydrangeas. For example, large-leaved plants have a longer growing season. In addition, garden microphylla lays a flower bud in September, paniculate hydrangea in March-April. In the first case, the gardener must take measures to protect the tops of the shoots from frost burns. In the second, it is enough to insulate the stems and the root system: if at least one branch survived the winter, the plant will bloom.

But the reason given is just special case. The example does not explain why shrubs of the same variety have different frost resistance.

Maybe it's about relationships. Hydrangea grows to decorate: most of its flowers are barren. The shrub is wasteful: it spends too much energy on a stormy long flowering. Sometimes they are not left for development. If we immediately succumb to the charms of hydrangea and forget about tomorrow's winter, then we will face a problem: we insulated, but we did not succeed. Why?

Probably because our bushes are weak.
It is possible that the shoots are plentiful, and the roots are frail.
Or vice versa: the root system is powerful, and the foliage is short.

Mature stems overwinter well. This means that the plant must have sufficient energy to develop, gain strength and bloom.

Why does hydrangea freeze?

The reasons may be subtle. Here are examples.

The landing site was chosen in a lowland - and cold flows there. Or vice versa: a bush crowns the top of a blown hill.

Perhaps you have laid organic matter under the root, and for some reason the worms do not process it into humus. After all, it is known that plants poorly absorb nutrients from undecomposed manure.
The composition and amount of mulch affects the survival rate: flower roots are close to the soil surface. They can partially freeze in a snowless winter.
Does the composition of the top dressing correspond to the stage of plant development: excess nitrogen provokes the growth of shoots, potassium and phosphorus contribute to the absorption of calcium, lignification of trunks. Disproportion generates an imbalance of development.

Based on our experience, in this article we will try to:

Select all required preparatory stages for pre-winter flower care;

Determine the list of activities at each stage;

Assess their effectiveness.

In the end, you yourself will choose which methods to use to warm the hydrangea.

General rules for care for all types of hydrangeas

Frost resistance garden hydrangeas depends on two reasons:

From the ability of the roots to provide the bush with sufficient nutrients;

From life force shoots, the strength of the structure of the branches.

From the first day of the appearance of a young seedling, the florist continuously solves the primary task - how to create the most favorable environment for the shrub for development and subsequent wintering, during which the hydrangea will not freeze out.

Seven Facets: Successful Hydrangea Care Factors

In order for a luxuriously flowering bush not to freeze in the cold winter, you need to not only think about ways to shelter hydrangeas, but also create for it in advance optimal conditions for the growth and maturation of shoots.

1. Bush locations - where there is no draft. A corner near a fence, a windward wall of a barn, a bench, an ornamental garden structure will do.

2. Illumination - light shading. The best place where the sun is before noon.

3. Access to moisture. Hydrangea loves abundant watering. Plant it 1.5-2 m from fruit trees otherwise there will be too much competition for moisture.

4. Soil - nutritious, slightly acidic, with a fairly loose, but not sandy structure - useful material should not be washed out. The best place for nursery macrophiles is the edge of the compost pit.

5. Adaptation of the root system. Roots in the nursery are accustomed to receiving an abundance of high-calorie substrate. The depleted soil of the garden poorly stimulates secondary petioles to develop. In order for the system to grow, the hole is expanded, made more than 50 cm. The soil structure is modified:

To improve permeability, crushed stone with sand is added;

To increase nutritional value - peat, dry foliage, humus, fertilizers.

6. Hardening, training of stems during the first three years according to special agricultural technology:

The young sapling grows freely in the first summer: broken, crooked, inward-growing branches are kept for it.

They put it in the cellar for the winter. The underground is the optimal environment: a stable temperature of 5-7 ° C, complete calm.

In March, a pot with a one-year-old plant is returned to the room. When the leaves bloom - in late June or early July, the stems are cut off: they stimulate the growth of shoots and the development of roots.

The next year, the procedure is repeated;

In the third year after the May-June frosts, the hydrangea is planted in the ground.

7. Feeding shrubs with fertilizers in digestible form. Since fresh mullein is poison for a plant, with a lack of experience it is better to exclude manure. It will be successfully replaced by rotted grass the year before last, forest litter or the best option- biohumus. Dilute the mixture with 100 g of superphosphate - this complex will be enough for good nutrition.

Proper nutrition is the key to a successful wintering of hydrangeas

The roots are responsible for filling the stems with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Nitrogen - construction material for proteins. Shoot cells, fruits, deciduous mass, all this is protein. Calcium, potassium - substances responsible for the protection of protein cells, for the strength of cell walls and connective tissue. Phosphorus promotes the absorption of minerals and trace elements.

The soil is needed not just nutritious. IN different time a given composition of top dressing is required. In the early period - when ripe, the plant is fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. In autumn, hydrangeas are fertilized with phosphates and potassium.

Signs of the abundance of each substance are determined by the color of the leaves:

Yellowed foliage - nitrogen is needed. Urea, saltpeter are introduced into the diet.
Turquoise leaves - add superphosphate.
There is a slowdown in growth, a light border appears on the edges of the foliage - they are fed with chloride or potassium sulfate. Complex fertilizer- Potassium humate.

Preparing (pruning) hydrangeas for wintering

Leaves are cut off the stems. It is better not to touch the inflorescences - in the spring they can be removed before the first flowering bud. The same can be said about radical molding. If the plant is too thick, you can spend sanitization- remove sick, weak shoots.

However, the final decision - to cut or not to cut remains with the owner. The next pruning will be possible only in late spring, when the green mass appears.

The choice of insulation method for hydrangeas, taking into account the basics of winter heat transfer

Bush shelter options are different. These can be pits, tubes, sheds. With any method of wintering hydrangeas in the garden, at least two layers of insulation are used.

The first - a mandatory layer should cover the roots. Located on the surface, they need sound insulation. A mound of peat, compost 8-10 cm thick is the most suitable thermal protection.
The second layer is snow. It has been proven that fluffy white mass is the best heat insulator. The temperature on the soil surface under the snow canopy is on average 10-13 degrees higher than in the atmosphere. In most cases, the soil cools down to only 5-10 degrees of frost. Therefore, flower buds will be more comfortable when they are located below the snow cover.

Frost Shields

The following technology for warming hydrangeas is considered the most effective and least labor-intensive.

On one or both sides of the bushes are laid wooden shields with protruding pegs along the edges.

A straw roller is placed under the base of the bush. The stems are carefully leaned on the straw and laid on the shields.

The shoots are fixed - with the help of a cord stretched between the pegs, or pinned. You can lay out the shoots in a fan or in a bunch.

Pour insulation - straw, foliage, peat; cover the entire structure with non-woven material. Fixed with another shield.

Digging in a hole

Tear off a trench next to the flower. Hydrangea is dug up, placed in a hole, covered with a box, covered with turf, straw. A shield is laid on the pit, covered with a vapor-permeable film. Pressed oppression - bricks, logs.

Frameworks

For tall climbing species frame frames are made. This method is suitable for frost-resistant climbing or tall varieties. Allows you to keep the temperature of the bush at the level environment. Otherwise, the trunks containing moisture, due to its evaporation, will be additionally cooled - by 3o-5o relative to air. This method is categorically not suitable for garden large-leaf hydrangea.

Hydrangea pruning according to Tim Bebel - for guaranteed flowering after winter

An innovative method, discovered by an American florist, is gaining popularity every year. He suggests pre-winter pruning of hydrangeas in the summer so that the flower buds have time to ripen before the onset of cold weather. The essence of the technology is simple.

Non-flowering stems in July are shortened to the lowest lateral bud. Thus stimulate the laying of flower buds on the shoots and in the underground part of the plant.

The rest of the stems are cut in October - only a third of the length. It turns out a compact bush, which is easy to insulate. Such - they bloom with a 100% guarantee.

Shrubs formed by this method for active growth shoots need enhanced fertilizing with organic and mineral fertilizers- from spring to August.

Beautiful hydrangea flowers. And unassuming. They decorate gardens with a luxurious bright variety, and in return they demand ... attention. Agree: it is difficult to call the usual human attitude to the flower "care".