Before I saw it, I thought that these are such magical trousers that do not tear, and also do not burn in fire and do not drown in water;) But my eldest hung on the fence .....
1. For repairs, you will need: glue "Moment" rubber (or other universal glue), scissors, any plastic bag, toothpicks
2. The main task is to bring the torn edges of the membrane fabric as tightly as possible to each other, but not overlap. To do this, you need a layer of polyethylene, which is placed BETWEEN the membrane and a thin lining of fabric (in my case, it remained intact). Accordingly, I essentially have two cuts, so I cut out two strips from plastic bag much wider and slightly longer than the slit. First, we put one strip and, helping ourselves with a toothpick (or something thin), we smear the polyethylene and the edges of the membrane with glue. We bring the edges of the joint to the joint. (quite laborious, maybe, the glue sticks to the fingers and dries quickly). We repeat the same operation with another incision. 
3. We glue the corner of the connection of the cuts last. There are two difficulties in this operation: to have time to bring the edges of the fabric together before the glue begins to grab them strongly (if we don’t have time, we pull out a strip of polyethylene, cut out a new one and start all over again) and not to smear the trousers with glue around the cut (then it is rubbed off badly)
The result of the repair is this: 
PS: strength was tested on the hill on the same day - beyond praise;)
ZY2: They say that there are magic patches for the membrane and such patches and even repair kits are sold in magic stores "for hunters and fishermen." However, I didn't see it.
Membrane roofing is a modern and, perhaps, the most perfect solution for soft roofing. The combination of reliability, increased resistance to climatic and atmospheric influences, elasticity, the ability to maintain quality characteristics within a wide temperature range puts this material among the advanced and high-quality ones.
The use of polymer membranes in the device soft roofs is already a guarantee of the quality of the coating and its durability. Membrane roof repair subject to compliance right technology laying the coating is needed much less frequently than in the case of other materials. Its maintenance-free service life is from 30 to 60 years.
The biggest advantage of such roofs is resistance to extreme temperatures, which allows the membrane to be used in a variety of conditions.
What are membranes
The roofing membrane is a film polymeric material. It is rather difficult to name its exact composition, since the constituent components from different manufacturers may not be the same. To obtain better samples, it includes modified bitumen, fiberglass, various plasticizers, and more.
Today, the market offers three ways to install such a roof:
- it is based on plasticized PVC, reinforced for strength with a polyester mesh. Volatile plasticizers provide plasticity to it, this is about 40% of the composition. by welding the sheets with hot air into a single sheet. The work is carried out using special equipment. It is UV and fire resistant. However, bright colors fade somewhat over time, and the material is also resistant to oils, bituminous materials and solvents. Another negative factor is the release of volatile compounds into the atmosphere by the canvas.
TPO
- the basis is made up of thermoplastic olefins, which are reinforced with either fiberglass or polyester (non-reinforced products are also found). Due to the absence of volatile plasticizers in the composition, it is not so elastic, which makes installation difficult. It, as in the case of polyvinyl chloride, is performed by welding the webs with hot air. The service life of the resulting coating reaches 60 years, it is characterized by high strength and reliability even at low temperatures. Installation can also be carried out in winter.
EPDM - the synthetic rubber underlying it is reinforced for strength with a polyester mesh. The product has the highest elasticity and relatively low price. mainly on the adhesive, and although it provides sufficient bond strength for the EPDM coating, the butt joints nevertheless do not lose their “problem” in terms of water flow.
Benefits of membrane coatings
- Durability. The service life is about 60 years.
- High installation speed, since the coating is laid in one layer - the productivity of work is approximately 600 m 2 / shift.
- The ability to choose the width of the rolls allows you to cover roofs of various configurations, and with the least number of joints.
- High-quality and uniform seam, which is ensured by hot air welding.
- High elasticity, frost resistance, UV resistance, operational and chemical resistance.
- High class of fire safety - up to G-1.
- Exceptional lightness of the coating, which additionally does not overload the load-bearing structures.
- The technical characteristics of polymer membranes make it possible, without changing the technology, to mount them all year round.
With so many advantages, the only disadvantage of the membrane coating is its price. They cost more than their competitors one and a half to two times.
Roofing methods
Depending on the roof structure, installation is carried out in one of three ways.
Mechanical
- used for roofs with a large angle of inclination. Fastening is carried out using special fasteners, and the joints are hermetically fastened with special equipment.
Ballast– suitable for roofs with a slope of less than 10⁰. The ballast can be, say, crushed stone.
Adhesive- used for roofs of buildings located in the zone of increased wind loads. The canvas is simply glued to the plane.
How to repair a membrane coating
Although the membrane shrinks within 0.5% over the entire operational period, however, this may be enough to cause stress and depressurization in seam joints. The coating can be significantly damaged when performing all kinds of work, installing additional equipment on the roof or careless cleaning of the roof from snow and ice.
To repair seams or repair minor damage, it is, of course, not economically feasible to rent special equipment. Moreover, old membranes partially lose their elasticity, so they weld much worse. Cost increases welding work by 20-25%.
The ideal solution for such cases is the modern EternaBond repair technology, which involves a strong connection of homogeneous membranes. This technology is based on chemical stimulation of adhesion, which ensures solidity adhesive bond, that is, not only tightness, but also the exceptional strength of the seam. Outwardly, it is a rolled tape, on which an adhesive layer is applied on one side - it enters into an active reaction with the membrane structure.
The restored fragment can serve at any temperature up to 30 years.
Fabrics without membranes - insulated jackets and vests.
Optimal damage repair small size(tears, burns, etc.) - sew some kind of chevron over the damage.
A variant with gluing a patch from the original fabric from the repair kit is possible. The patch can be glued on top, aligning the lines of the rip-stop fabric of the product and the patch, transparent polyurethane adhesive(for example, Moment Crystal), but this is not the most reliable option, you need to remember this, and it’s quite difficult to do it accurately.
Membrane coated fabrics or laminates - insulated jackets, pants and vests.
Possible options:
- cut out a small patch from the piece of top fabric attached to the jacket and glue it with transparent polyurethane glue (for example, Moment Crystal) from the inside, probably for this you will have to slightly increase the original hole in order to be able to push the patch inside. Accordingly, the patch must be cut taking into account the increase in the size of the hole. It is permissible to glue the patch from the outside, for this it is necessary to round the corners of the patch, to combine the rip-stop lines of the fabric of the product and the patch when gluing, to monitor uniform gluing along the contour to reduce the likelihood of lagging edges of the patch;
- sewing accessories stores sell decorative "chevrons" with printed on reverse side adhesive composition, they are glued with an iron. Glue the chevron, respectively, on the outside over the gap;
- in the same place (in sewing accessories stores) you can find a film - retroreflective or ordinary, also with an adhesive composition applied, it can be glued both from the inside and outside;
- self-adhesive patches (for example, McNett Tenacious Precut Patches, or Gore-Tex fabric repair kit, etc.). As a rule, they work well, but you will have to contrive to seal the gap from the inside, since the fabric of the product and the patches will almost certainly have a different texture.
Soft shells with an inner fleece layer.
If you seal the damage from the inside - due to the inner fleece layer, the area of \u200b\u200bthe glued patch will be too hard, from the outside - the appearance of the product will change, since the original fabric cannot be used on the patch due to its large thickness. Acceptable in terms of preservation relative to presentable appearance it may be an option to sew or stick a chevron over the damage.
Membrane fabrics for storm jackets and trousers.
Cut out small, neat patches with rounded corners from the supplied patch and stick on damaged areas with transparent polyurethane adhesive (Moment Crystal, for example). You can try to match the direction of the ripstop cells, if there is one on the fabric. Follow the uniform gluing along the contour to reduce the likelihood of lagging edges of the patch. For more reliable gluing, we recommend clamping the patch in a clamp between two planks (or, if there are not just fabric in the patch area, but seams, zippers, etc., you should also add plates of something like porous rubber). Clamp the harder, the better ... however, this is written in the instructions on the tube of glue.
Technological details of sewing jackets!
I needed a jacket for a hike. Lightweight for summer. Rainproof, because, again, summer! And well thought out, of course - without ventilation anywhere!
The jacket had a prototype (there is no photo in its entirety, but basically everything is made in the image and likeness) - all measurements were taken from the finished jacket and it looked like it was sewn ... Without this, I would not have been able to do anything!
However, some moments had to be invented by myself. There was no ventilation on the back on the original jacket - and armpit zippers alone are clearly not enough ... + there was only one tie on the hood - which is on the back of the head - and this will also not be enough :)
Added reflective elements - in the original they weren't there at all, but they are really needed, and much more than wildly bright colors (and it's also there for a reason)
About fabric - it's a membrane. I thought for a long time whether I need a membrane or not? Ideally, it should "breathe" - let hot air out from the inside ... But in fact, as I was told, only a very expensive membrane really breathes (that is, so that it is noticeable) and at a temperature not higher than 10 -15 degrees. Otherwise, the air inside is not much warmer than the air outside, and the mechanism does not work. Physics... And when it's warm outside, the membrane (sort of) doesn't breathe! It turns out like a polyethylene raincoat - it will not let water inside, but you will sweat in it!...
Yes, and you need to handle the membrane more carefully - you can’t iron (more precisely, you can, but with an almost cold iron, so you can’t see the result :)), you can’t warm yourself by the fire (otherwise the entire inner layer will straighten out, and goodbye, miracle properties!) , powder cannot be washed (otherwise all pores will clog, and see the previous paragraph ...).
Sewing a membrane, in general, is not difficult. I almost did not sweep anything - I only chipped off the allowance with pins. The only problem was the different quality of fabrics. Green very thin, similar to oilcloth. The blue one is a little thicker, and it still has the texture of the fabric. The green stretches more strongly - as a result, in some places there are waves, sometimes even small tucks sometimes ...
I had to sweep only the hood - there are very curvilinear details, and I could not get by with pins)
One more technical point -about gluing the seams of the membrane!
If you read on the Internet, then everywhere they write that it is necessary to glue! And in no case should you buy membrane clothing in which not all seams are glued.
And in the store, the consultant told me that it was rather a "matter of taste" :) You don't sew a wetsuit! And water is unlikely to seep into the seams - it still instantly rolls off the surface ...
Nevertheless, I decided to do everything branded, I bought many meters of this tape, but in the end I glued quite a bit))) It turned out to be not so easy ... The factory probably has a special gluing machine, but at home I have to do it's an iron! Hot iron! Who only need to walk along the tape itself (through a layer of paper, of course) and in no case touch the sections of the membrane that do not fall under the tape - otherwise the membrane film melts and sticks to the paper through which you iron, or to the iron itself, if accidentally touched :(
I had to put wooden blocks under the seam in order to touch only the right places with an iron. Yes, and in order for the tape to stick, you need to press hard enough and hold it long enough - the bars tried to pop out all the time))
In general, I didn’t torture myself further) I glued only the shoulder seams and some on the sleeves - and nothing, the jacket withstood all the rain!
Yes, the fabric itself in sewing is not at all complicated and even pleasant :)
The membrane still has too many limitations to be unambiguously the "right" fabric for hiking clothing. The mere fact that you can’t warm yourself close by the fire in it saddens ... And later it turned out that it absorbs smells (of the same fire) well))) Although somewhere in the store I was assured that the membrane does not absorb the smell in general, or last resort in a couple of days it is completely ventilated - not true! Miracles do not happen :) I had to wash
In general, it is best to use this fabric in autumn and winter clothes (ideal for skiers, snowboarders, climbers and winter hikers) with an appropriate set of underwear - thermal underwear + fleece - and then we have a chance to experience all the declared miracle properties :)
And for the summer, it turns out not so much a "jacket" as a "raincoat / windbreaker" - water and wind resistance here is almost 100%!
