The variety of types of knives does not allow the topic of their manufacture to dry out. on our own. A knife is an ideal assistant not only in household, but also for hunting, fishing and other outdoor conditions. Some people may also need a knife for tough self-defense. But it is still better to try to avoid using a knife as a weapon of self-defense. There are items of self-defense that are less dangerous to human life and more legal, so to speak. But life is life and you never know when, how and with what you will have to defend it. Hiking and Hunter knives It’s convenient to wear in a sheath, but in an urban environment, a cleaver on a belt will look quite wild and will naturally attract close attention law enforcement. That's why there are folding knives that are convenient to carry in your trouser pocket. We will start making this today.
Naturally, it will be much easier to buy a folding knife, but people come to this site who do not pursue simplicity, but try to do everything with their own hands. The article is for informational purposes and is aimed at readers who already have an idea about making knives, so the description is given rather briefly; but from the photographs you can understand almost every step of the work.
To make a folding knife, we need a titanium plate, although we can also use stainless steel or some other good steel. Naturally, it all starts with making a template, the shape of which you will then transfer to a steel strip.
First we will make the handle liners of the folding knife. We outline the shape of the liner on a titanium plate and cut it out using any tool available to you. Next, we do rough processing of the liner, grinding off excess metal using sandpaper and files. We are making a second liner. To do this, apply the finished liner to a strip of metal and drill two holes through. We cut threads into them, fasten the liners with headless screws and cut out the second liner, using the first as a template. Next, we process the paired liners using sandpaper and files, getting as close as possible to the contour line of the liner.
Now it’s time to make the folding knife blade and the back of the handle. We proceed in exactly the same way: templates, transfer to a titanium strip, sawing and sanding.
We drill holes in the liners for attaching the back of the knife handle. We assemble the knife and look where there are inconsistencies and cracks. If necessary, we modify these places, using files to achieve a perfect alignment of all parts of the folding knife.
We put on the second liner and drill additional holes for attaching the back of the knife. You can fasten the parts of the knife handle using special screws by first cutting the threads in the holes with a tap. The screws are convenient because, if necessary, the knife can be easily disassembled and any modifications can be made. We flare all the holes for the screws with a larger drill so that the screw head does not protrude above the surface of the liner.
Next, we cut out two upper and two lower metal linings of the knife handle. We glue them to the liners using superglue. Now we drill holes for the screws through the liners into the metal plates. The holes in the linings should not be through. Now put the knife in a bath of acetone to dissolve the superglue.
We chamfer the blind holes of the metal plates of the folding knife and cut threads into them. We attach the pads to the liners using screws. We adjust the linings by sanding off the excess metal to the shape of the liners.Next, we perform the final grinding of the knife handle.
From the inside, on the front metal plates, we drill recesses for the blade axis with a drill sharpened at an obtuse angle. For the axle, we grind the support screws to lathe. We cut the thread with a die.In the back of the handle we cut out a cone-shaped ( dovetail) groove for the leaf spring.
We harden all metal parts of a folding knife using homemade horn or a gas burner.We will make the middle part of the overlays from any available material: wood, bone, plastic, plexiglass, textolite, etc.
We cut out and grind the plate, adjusting its shape. The work requires precision, so adjust the middle pad slowly and periodically try it on. After this, we drill blind holes in the liners for attaching the wooden trim. And cut out the L-shaped slots.
The matter remains closed. Drill holes for the lock at each end of the liner. We connect them with a slot. Then we make a transverse cut and get an L-shaped slot that forms the locking plate. We harden it gas burner and bend it to the side three or four millimeters.
We drill a hole in the corner of the lock plate and press a metal ball into it. The back of this locking ball is ground flush with the spring plane.We sharpen the axle screw, making it rectangular. We mill a slot for the screw in the liner body.We sharpen the fin of the back of the knife handle on both sides. We grind the metal parts of the handle linings. We make bevels on the blade of a folding knife.
Assembling the knife. But the axle is fitted with a thin washer, a blade, and another washer. Then the second liner is put on. We insert the middle pads, snapping them into the L-shaped holes. We tighten the screws with a flat special key.
Manufacturing should begin directly with the blade. First of all, mark the place for the axial hole. We drill it and, using it as a guide, we make further markings of the blade. If you do the opposite and mark and cut the blade along the contour, and only then drill a hole, then during the drilling process, especially in hardened workpieces, the drill can move to the side and all dimensions will “float away”.
Having transferred the contours of the blade to the workpiece, we begin to make the blade. We grind it using a grinder and sandpaper along the contour. For the convenience of holding the blade during the process of removing the slopes, we do not yet cut off the blade itself from the workpiece and do not form the heel of the blade.
To remove descents you can use various instruments: grinders, emery machines, flat grinders, grinders. I do rough grinding of the slopes on sandpaper and fine grinding on a surface grinder.
Next, we begin making the side dies.
Next, drill a hole in the dies for the blade stopper pin, install the axis and stopper pin, install the blade and the second die. We move the blade to the open position and mark on the die the position of the heel of the blade, more precisely the place where the lock liner should rest. Next, mark the liner and start cutting it out.
Having prepared the pritins in this way, we proceed to install them on the dies. There are different methods: soldering, riveting, spot welding etc. The most accessible are soldering and riveting.
For soldering you will need a soldering iron, soldering acid, solder and a heat source. As a soldering iron, it is best to use a massive piece of copper, which is heated in the flame of a burner. Soldering acid is hydrochloric acid etched with zinc. POS-60, POS-90 are suitable as solder. Before soldering, it is necessary to clean and tin the soldering areas. Cleared sandpaper, needle file. After cleaning, coat the soldering areas with acid, take a piece of solder on a well-heated soldering iron and tin the surface. During the tinning process, it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps and that the entire surface is covered with an even layer of solder. High-quality tinning and soldering are possible only with good heating of the parts.
After servicing, rinse the parts thoroughly in water and soda, removing any remaining acid. Next, we clamp the tinned parts in a vice and begin to heat them with a burner from different sides. To reduce heat loss, thermal insulating material must be laid under the jaws of the vice; fragments of ceramic tiles work well. As it warms up, we press the vice until droplets of solder appear between the parts, after which the heating can be stopped.
Soldering the right pritina has its own peculiarities: first we solder the knife axis into the die, and then solder the pritina, while instead of one of the ceramic tiles we use a piece of tube larger than the diameter axis.
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| So, all the components of the knife are ready, all that remains is to assemble the knife and once again make sure that the lock is working correctly. Adjust if necessary. For smoother operation of the mechanism, it should be lubricated with machine oil. After some time of operation, the parts of the mechanism will rub in, the blade will rotate easily and smoothly, and the liner plate will rise slightly upward. |
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In the most simple models the blade is not locked in the open position: it will fold if you press it hard enough in the appropriate direction. This is how a classic pocket penknife works. In English literature, a knife equipped with a similar mechanism is called slip joint folder, or a folding knife with a sliding joint (more like a joint).
I could not find the corresponding Polish term. Well, okay, it doesn’t matter what it’s called scientifically; what matters is how it works. A spring, attached with one end to the upper edge of the handle, with its other end presses on the disc-shaped surface of the back of the blade. And this surface is designed in such a way that both opening and folding the knife causes the spring to bend or unbend; at the same time, it provides a certain resistance, which allows you to hold the knife either in the open or closed position (Fig. ). But if in the folded state the spring holds the blade quite reliably, then in the open position such a knife cannot be called one hundred percent safe. In practice, you have little to fear if you only use the knife for light, well-controlled cutting—for example, opening correspondence or sharpening pencils. Maybe that's why similar models are becoming a thing of the past; now they are produced in small numbers. Even typical multifunctional pocket knives are now increasingly equipped with mechanisms that allow them to hold at least one, the largest (main) blade in the open position.
DIY folding knife. How to make a folding knife with your own hands. DIY folding knife drawings. Friction folding knife. Author. Hello everyone, I present to your attention photos step-by-step production friction type folding knife. It’s hard to call it a master class or tutorial; a lot is missing. Friction folding knives are common in countries where knives with locking locks are prohibited. Knives of this type are widely used by European knife makers.
A true gourmet's journey through the home country of Meisel: portraits and recipes of 25 Michelin-starred chefs from Savoy, Haute-Savoie, Piedmont and the country of Nice, including fascinating anecdotes about the history of Savoyard gastronomy written by Annie Victor and illustrated photographs by Anthony Cottarel. There you will learn about the Savoie family and family, as well as modifications to production processes and the technical and commercial development of the brand. The visit ends with a film made during the workshops describing the current production processes.
With a foreword by Pavel Baucus and Michel Dejoe, the tale unfolds through the revelations of Maurice and Denis Meisel and interviews with company employees. The folding knife is one of the most common tools in America. Go to any convenience store, sporting goods store or outfitter in the country and you will find several to choose from.
If, like me, we don’t know how to use Corel, we draw for a long time and tediously with our hands. cut out of cardboard - fold and unfold
The clutch has characteristic feature- a long tail protruding beyond the dimensions of the handle when folded, the principle of operation of such a knife is simple, in the frame of the knife there is a locking pin into which the tail of the blade rests when unfolded, and a special recess in the blade when folded so that the edge of the blade does not touch the insides of the frame . Well then, to the point:
With folding knives readily available and legal to carry in more places than a pistol, it's no surprise that everyone more people choose a folding knife as their primary self-defense tool or to complement their regular concealed carry. But despite the wide range of folding knives available, not all blades are created equal. The folder market has some outstanding entries, but is also flooded with knives that are cheap, gimmicks, or simply not suitable for defensive use.
Can you open it with one hand?
If you're considering adding a folding knife to your self-defense options, these are the four things you need to look for. You need a knife that can be opened with one hand. If you are fighting in a clinch, blocking a strike, holding a child, or otherwise unable to use both hands, you will only have one hand free to access and open the knife. And even if you're using the knife in a non-defensive environment, you may need to open it with one hand.
Making a blade requires a separate master class. The axle and sliding washers are from an unknown Chinese folding unit.
we cut them out with a grinder, transfer the centers of all the holes from the drawing to the blade, and drill them, pressing the blade to the die, drill holes through the blade, first in one, and then through one in the other.
Does it have a secure locking mechanism?
The blade should lock open, without swinging in any direction. You won't be able to accidentally close the knife. If you need to use your switchblade to defend yourself, the adrenaline will pump through you. You and your attacker will both move and fight. When a knife is used, enormous forces will be applied to the blade. If your locking mechanism fails to handle this, you may find yourself with the blade locked or locked on your fingers.
Is the blade quality steel that will have a sharp edge and is designed to penetrate. The purpose of a defensive jackknife is to cut and stab. Unless your blade gets a lot of use from hard use, it won't make the cuts you need when it counts. A deeper cut is more likely to disable an attacker, and a sharper blade cuts the deepest. It is also very important that the blade profile promotes penetration. When your attacker is wearing heavy, thick, or even just loose clothing, stabbing can be effective and cutting becomes less reliable.
We cut a groove between the locking holes, in my case with a grinder, ideally with a router
let's take a look at the assembly
From thick stainless steel (5mm) we cut out a spacer into the back of the handle
Is it legal to exercise in areas you frequent?
Laws regarding knives vary widely from state to state and even city to city. In fact, if you are carrying a folding knife for self-defense, it may be because a fixed blade is illegal to carry in your area. There are rules about length, type and deployment mechanisms. Some of them may be vague or vague, and many of them seem unfair. Our respect for the law is what separates us from criminals, even if we admit that some laws are stupid or arbitrary and do not deserve such respect.
we carefully consider this whole thing many times, we spit and swear
we attach the spacer to the dies, drill, insert pins, rivet, grind the tops of the heads flush
Make sure your knife is legal. There are many other desirable qualities in a knife. For example, you need a way to carry knives that consistently targets quick access. You also want a grip that doesn't get slick when it's wet, be it sweat, blood, or water. While these things are important, they didn't make a list because they can often be dealt with after the fact. The clip is good, but belts and pocket holsters can be a problem with carry. A smooth handle can often be trimmed or dressed with a handle.
But if the knife won't open with one hand, won't stay open under hard use, and won't stay sharp or penetrate layers of clothing, it's a problem that can't be fixed. If you've ever shopped for a pocket knife for daily carry, you'd know that there are a ton of options to choose from. Trying to understand the many types of knives and their subtle differences can become overwhelming. Of the many factors to consider when choosing something as personal as a knife, its locking mechanism is one of the most important.
we make descents on the blade roughly, hardening - tempering, remove descents to zero+ on the diamond from above, rough assembly
hand sanding, etching. The etching process is also missed because this needs to be done separately by MK.
We finally tighten the axial screw with cyanoacrylate fixation, roughly saw out the lining with a spare, and drill recesses for the axle heads.
You should know what type of locking, if any, you should have based on your needs and preferences before investing in quality knife.
Linear locks are one of the most common mechanisms found on folding knives. A characteristic component of this mechanism is the side spring bar, located on the same side as the sharp edge of the blade, "lining" inner part handles. When the knife is closed, the spring bar is held under tension.
we glue one die, through the frame we drill holes in the die for the stop pin, and pins in the backplate, similarly we glue the second die and through the first we drill in the right places, glue the pins, and roughly grind them.
When fully open, this tension slides down the shaft inward to contact the butt of the blade, holding it in place without closing it. To disengage the liner lock, you must use your thumb to push the spring bar "down" so that it releases contact with the butt of the blade. This allows you to use forefinger To push the blade, it's enough to hold the bar so that you remove your thumb from the path of the blade, and then continue to safely close the knife.
Linear locks are useful because they allow the knife to have two true handle sides, as opposed to a frame. You can close the knife with one hand without a switch, ideal when you need both hands at work. You will find liner locks on both entry-level and high-end knives. This is the type of locking that appeals to both beginners and enthusiasts.
glue in the locking pin, cut it off and grind the pads closer to the desired shape
in intimate places where it cannot be removed with a grinder (for example), we remove it with a Dremel.
If you will be using the knife for heavy duty tasks, you should be aware that liner locks are usually not as secure as other locking systems. They're still quite strong, but since they're usually made from a thinner piece of metal, they're more prone to wear and tear, like a hard frame.
Think of a frame lock as a larger version of a liner lock. They are very similar to liner locking mechanisms, except that the internal spring strip moves into place, it is part of the handle itself. Frame lock knives tend to be stronger than liner locks because the piece of metal that slides into place is more substantial than the metal liner. Because of their similarity to liner locks, closing a frame lock knife is essentially the same - push down on the spring bar so it no longer blocks the butt of the blade, move your thumb out of the way, and then fold the knife closed.
you can matte all metal elements, although this is unnecessary
As you can see, at the beginning of the process I had an axial screw from a Chinese folding frame, but during the manufacturing process I lost it, and I had to quickly make it out of anything. I did not remove this. It is better to do the etching process as a separate MK, because There are many nuances that are important. In general, I missed a lot, I didn’t have enough hands. Article taken from the original source http://forum.zadi.ru/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=11774 Here are some photos of the finished knife.
This type of locking system puts most metal against the blade, providing strong locking for piercing, cutting, slicing and other heavy-duty tasks. Locking locks are seen on many mid to high range knives, usually made from titanium. In the example shown here, the stainless steel insert interacts with the blade as it takes longer to wear than titanium and stabilizes the shaft so you don't loosen it by pushing too far. Not only do they add a unique look to the knife, but they are also easy to operate with one hand.
Manufacturing should begin directly with the blade. First of all, mark the place for the axial hole. We drill it and, using it as a guide, we make further markings of the blade. If you do the opposite and mark and cut the blade along the contour, and only then drill a hole, then during the drilling process, especially in hardened workpieces, the drill can move to the side and all dimensions will “float away”.
It's easy to use on one side, but also important, it's completely reversible. Here's how it works: The lock consists of a spring-tensioned rod that slides back and forth along a track cut into the handles of the knife. To close the knife you will pull the bar towards the back of the knife using the pins thumb, and fold the blade.
Typically these knives require two hands to open and close safely. They consist of a spring bar and a specially shaped blade. To open the knife, you pull the blade to overcome the spring pressure, snapping the blade into place. To close it, make sure your fingers are out of the way of the sharp edge and lean back. Friction folders are similar except they do not have a spring bar. Instead, the knife blade is held in place simply by friction between the steel of the blade and the weights of the knife.
Having transferred the contours of the blade to the workpiece, we begin to make the blade. We grind it using a grinder and sandpaper along the contour. For the convenience of holding the blade during the process of removing the slopes, we do not yet cut off the blade itself from the workpiece and do not form the heel of the blade.
To remove slopes, you can use various tools: grinders, sandpapers, flat grinders, grinders. I do rough grinding of the slopes on sandpaper and fine grinding on a surface grinder.
One of the main advantages of these types of knives is their legality. They are also a pleasure to carry because they are simple and easy to use. But it's worth mentioning that these knives don't have a real lock, so they're not the best for heavy-duty tasks.
By now you should be more familiar with your options to better choose a knife worthy of your pocket. Do you have a favorite type of lock to recommend? Words and images by Ed Jelly and Bernard Capulong. If you've seen photos of what people carry every day, you might be wondering, "Why do so many people carry a pocket knife?" The answer is different for everyone, but it all comes back to the idea that a handy pocket knife is an essential tool.
Next, we begin making the side dies.
Next, drill a hole in the dies for the blade stopper pin, install the axis and stopper pin, install the blade and the second die. We move the blade to the open position and mark on the die the position of the heel of the blade, more precisely the place where the lock liner should rest. Next, mark the liner and start cutting it out.
Carrying a knife can also potentially save your life in an emergency or survival situation if you spend time on outdoors. However, knives may be restricted depending on where you live and what your local laws are, so keep that in mind before deciding which pocket knife you can carry.
Best pocket knife for everyday carry
When you're choosing the best pocket knife for everyday carry, you should consider many factors: how big the knife is, how it opens, how it locks, how you'll carry it, how durable it is, etc. Remember that you will need a knife that is comfortable, built, durable, safe to use, and legal to carry.
Having prepared the pritins in this way, we proceed to install them on the dies. There are different methods: soldering, riveting, spot welding, etc. The most accessible are soldering and riveting.
For soldering you will need a soldering iron, soldering acid, solder and a heat source. As a soldering iron, it is best to use a massive piece of copper, which is heated in the flame of a burner. Soldering acid is hydrochloric acid etched with zinc. POS-60, POS-90 are suitable as solder. Before soldering, it is necessary to clean and tin the soldering areas. Cleaned with sandpaper and a file. After cleaning, coat the soldering areas with acid, take a piece of solder on a well-heated soldering iron and tin the surface. During the tinning process, it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps and that the entire surface is covered with an even layer of solder. High-quality tinning and soldering are possible only with good heating of the parts.
After servicing, rinse the parts thoroughly in water and soda, removing any remaining acid. Next, we clamp the tinned parts in a vice and begin to heat them with a burner from different sides. To reduce heat loss, thermal insulating material must be laid under the jaws of the vice; fragments of ceramic tiles work well. As it warms up, we press the vice until droplets of solder appear between the parts, after which the heating can be stopped.
Soldering the right pritina has its own peculiarities: first we solder the knife axis into the die, and then solder the pritina, while instead of one of the ceramic tiles we use a piece of tube larger than the diameter axis.
