Well      09.06.2019

How to fasten furniture boards. Carpentry with Alexander Klimov - post Carpentry with Alexander Klimov - post. How to make a dovetail connection

Furniture panels are obtained by gluing or splicing lamellas of predetermined sizes. Thin, carefully polished planks are made from ash, beech, maple, oak, pine, or larch.

They are used in the manufacture of wooden structures, steps, stair railings, furniture, interior cladding walls. Their surface is resistant to moisture, it is possible to install in rooms with a high level of humidity, in addition, they are used innovative technologies, which protect the tree from cracking and deformation.

When it is required to assemble furniture panels among themselves, special fastening systems will be required.

Mounting methods

When choosing a method of fixing building products, you should think about two nuances: reliability and aesthetics. Especially when it comes to the production of furniture, stairs or interior decoration walls. Modern fittings for connecting furniture panels remain almost invisible.


Photo 1. Oak furniture board

There are several ways to connect furniture boards to each other. Check out four classic types of fasteners that have been used by craftsmen for decades.

  1. Confirmates- fastening for furniture boards in the form of a screw with a blunt end and a fairly wide thread. Threading is done when screwing in, the outer cap is closed with a decorative cap. Allows disassembly working structure without loss of bonding properties.
  2. Dowels- tested fastening of furniture boards with each other with high level reliability. Made of wood, cylindrical in shape. Corrugated side faces with chamfers are tightly inserted into pre-made holes. For the formation of the strongest connection are used building types glue.
  3. Screed- allows you to connect furniture boards at a right angle. Downforce is maintained during the reassembly process. Completely invisible after installation. The use of eccentrics is desirable with the help of construction equipment.
  4. self-tapping screws- allow you to quickly, simply and reliably connect two furniture panels. Pre-drilling holes is desirable to avoid cracks and breaks after screwing.

Methods for attaching lumber to the wall

Initially, you need to prepare the material by cutting it to the right sizes. You can use a regular hacksaw or a jigsaw. An imperfect edge can be processed with a milling cutter or masked with a corner. How to fix the furniture board to the wall? The lumber cut to the required parameters is preliminarily "planted" on liquid nails. When they seize, produce additional installation dowel-nails. Aesthetics is guaranteed, because you can easily close the caps with matching caps, and install a decorative plinth around the perimeter.

Joining techniques, that is, how to create strong connections between individual wooden parts in the manufacture of furniture, are essential for the successful design of built-in products. Wall makers use dozens of connection methods, but for furniture construction, you only need a few of the simple connections shown here.

The choice of connection method depends on how the built-in furniture structure will be used and how it should look. For example, a built-in furniture design to display items such as decorative glassware can be made with simple connections end-to-end, and for heavy objects (for example, a multi-volume encyclopedia) - with strong groove joints reinforced with screws. If the appearance of the furniture is important, choose a hidden connection method. For example, a built-in design with cleat joints looks more like a factory one than a butt-to-bar design.

Lap joint

With many built-in furniture constructions, you will need to glue and tighten several joints at the same time. For this job, you need a variety of different clamps. Use wood glue to reinforce all joints. Joints made with nails and screws alone will loosen over time.

Types of furniture connections

Method for gluing furniture

Pull the pieces together to hold them securely at the seams. After measuring the diagonals, make sure the corners are square. Their straightness is evidenced by the same length of the diagonals. If the length is different, correct the position of the parts.

Reinforce the connections by drilling pilot holes in them. Screw in screws or drive in finishing nails. For screws, bore out the base holes so that the screw heads are recessed. Deepen the nails with a punch.

Close the bored holes with plugs hard rock wood, smeared with glue, and cover the nail holes with putty for wood. When the glue or putty is dry, smooth the surface with sandpaper, and then varnish.

How to make a dovetail joint

1 Measure the profile desired length, then set the miter saw blade at a 45° angle.

2 Clamp the profile in the angle saw, then cut to size. Apply a thin, even layer of wood glue to the beveled edges of the profile.

3 Place the profile sections on wooden structure so that their beveled ends are tightly pressed against each other. Drill through base holes in the profile and in the product and attach the profile with finishing nails.

How to make a butt joint

1 Using a box square, trace the location of the joints on the wood blank. If desired, attach slats along the bottom edge of each joint for reinforcement.

2 Apply wood glue to the surfaces to be joined. When doing this, use a cardboard stick or strip, which ensures an even application of glue.

3 Connect both parts to reinforce each connection, drill the base holes and drive a trim nail or screw into the connections. (A guideline on the blank will help align the nails.)

How to make a groove connection

1 Hold the pieces together and "mark the groove". Insert a straight cutter into the cutter and set it to the desired depth. Typically, the depth of the groove is half the thickness of the wood piece. For example, with a thickness of 3/4 inch, the depth of the grooves should be 1 cm.

2 Pinch the rectangular guide ruler on each side where the grooves will be, so that the edges of the rulers are against the marked lines. Install unnecessary wooden detail the same thickness as the workpiece between the rulers to measure the gap.

3 Cut the groove with two passes of the cutter. On the first pass, firmly press the base of the router bit against one of the straight rails, then make a second pass in the opposite direction, pressing the base of the router bit against the second rail.

4 Apply wood glue to the surfaces to be joined, pull the parts together. Drill pilot holes and screw in screws or drive in finishing nails at a distance of 7.5-10 cm from each other. For screws, countersink the base holes.

How to make a blind connection on spikes using a template

1 Arrange the parts as they should look after joining. Label them A and B as shown above. Flip the pieces as shown below. In this case, the surfaces are connected and look at you. Using the template and an additional clamp, pull the pieces together so that the ends are in line.

2 Insert a brush drill into the drill. If you are studding a 3/4" board, use a 3/8" bit.

To make sure you drill holes to the correct depth, install a stopper.

3 Drill the dowel holes in both pieces through the template hole. For a 3/4" piece, the holes in piece A should be 1.3cm deep and the holes in piece B 3cm deep. Move the template and drill new holes 7.5-10cm apart.

4 Check for proper connection by inserting 1 1/2" knurled spikes into A, then tapping wooden mallet on part B, install it in its place. If the parts do not fit snugly, deepen the dowel holes in part B.

5 Separate the parts and remove the spikes, apply glue to the spikes and insert them into the holes of part B. Apply glue to the surfaces to be joined as well. Attention. When joining melamine-coated particle board, use glue only on the spikes.

6 Assemble the parts by tapping on them with a wooden mallet until the connection "sits" tightly. Remove excess adhesive with a damp cloth.

How to Make Blind Face Connections Using a Spike Center Marker

1 Mark the connection line on the front side of the workpiece. Using a template, make holes for the studs on the edge of the other part, then insert a stud center marker into each hole.

2 Place the parts edgewise on flat surface, then press them together so that the tips of the markers leave tattoos on the tree.

3 At the marked points, drill holes with a brush drill. For 3/4" thick wood, the holes should be 1.3cm deep. Use a square drill guide with a drill stop. Assemble the spiked part.

How to make through spike joints

1 Pull and glue the parts together, draw a guide line. Using a 4.3 cm deep brush drill bit with a stopper, drill holes in one piece for the studs to fit into the adjacent piece. Place the holes at a distance of 7.5-10 cm from each other.

2 Apply carpenter's glue to the 1 1/2" grooved studs, then insert the studs into the holes. Using a punch, drive the spikes in until they stop.

3 Seal the dowel holes with hardwood plugs coated with adhesive. Let the glue dry, then sand the surface with an emery stone.

CONTRACT OFFER

An individual entrepreneur Klimov Alexander Nikolaevich, acting on the basis of the Certificate of state registration of an individual as an individual entrepreneur, hereinafter referred to as the Seller, publishes this Public Offer on the Digital Goods presented on the Seller's website

1. GENERAL PROVISIONS. SUBJECT OF THE CONTRACT

1.1. In accordance with Article 437 of the Civil Code Russian Federation(Civil Code of the Russian Federation) this document is a public offer, and in case of acceptance of the conditions set out below individual, accepting this offer, pays for the Goods and / or Services in accordance with the terms of this Agreement. In accordance with paragraph 3 of Article 438 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation, payment for the Goods by the Buyer is an acceptance of the offer, which is considered equivalent to the conclusion of the Agreement on the conditions set forth in this offer.

1.2. Based on the foregoing, carefully read the text of the public offer, and if you do not agree with any clause of this offer, you are invited to refuse to purchase the Goods and / or Services provided by the Seller.

1.3. In this offer, unless the context otherwise requires, the following terms have the following values:

Acceptance - full acceptance by the Buyer of the terms of the Agreement;

Offer - a public offer of the Seller, addressed to any individual (citizen), to conclude a contract of sale (hereinafter referred to as the "Agreement") with him on the existing conditions contained in the Agreement.

The Buyer - a visitor to the Site - an individual who has entered into an Agreement with the Seller on the terms contained in the Agreement and makes the purchase of a Digital Good (s) and / or services.

Parties - the Seller and the Buyer referred to together.

Site - a site hosted on the Internet with the domain name "site", which is an online store containing an assortment of goods and services of the Seller.

Digital goods - a virtual product that is the subject of this agreement and has the following types:

a) finished digital goods - digital goods laid out for sale, having a finished look and ready for use.

b) courses - training programs using a distance learning system.

Delivery - delivery by the Seller of digital goods presented on the Site via electronic communication channels to an electronic mailbox, the address of which is indicated by the Buyer in the Order;

Account - a virtual "office" of the Buyer, in which the registered user sees his personal data.

Registration is the process of entering personal data by the Buyer into a special form on the Site when placing an Order (last name, first name, email address).

Order - individual items from the assortment list of Digital Goods specified by the Buyer when placing an application for a Digital Good.

2. SUBJECT OF THE CONTRACT

2.1. The Seller sells Digital Goods in accordance with the current price list published in the Seller's online store on the website, and the Buyer makes payment and accepts the Goods in accordance with the terms of this Agreement.

2.2. The Seller delivers the Digital Goods in a purely virtual form, via e-mail and does not send printed goods by mail.

2.3. This Agreement is an official document of the Seller.

3. ORDERING

3.1. The order of the Goods is carried out by the Buyer by sending a properly completed form in the process of processing the payment. All columns of the form for payment must be completed. In case of absence necessary information, allowing to identify the Buyer and send him the Goods, the Order will not be accepted by the Seller.

3.2. When placing an Order, the Buyer undertakes to provide the following information about himself:

last name and first name,
E-mail address.

3.3. The Buyer agrees to the processing by the Seller of the Buyer's personal data with or without the use of automation tools. This consent The Buyer applies to his last name, first name and other information related to his personality and specified when placing the Order. Consent is given to perform any actions in relation to personal data that are necessary for the proper execution of this Agreement, including without limitation: collection, systematization, accumulation, storage, clarification, use, distribution, blocking and destruction, as well as any other actions with personal data in accordance with the current legislation of the Russian Federation.

3.4. Payment by the Buyer of the Order made on the website means the Buyer's consent to the terms of this Agreement. The day of payment for the Order is the date of conclusion of the Agreement purchase and sale between the Seller and the Buyer.

3.5. If the Buyer has any questions regarding the Goods, before placing the Order, he must seek the advice of the Seller at the e-mail box help@website, or through the form feedback posted on the site.

4. CONDITIONS AND TERMS OF DELIVERY OF DIGITAL GOODS

4.1. Delivery of the paid goods to the Buyer is carried out by sending an e-mail with a link to receive the Digital Goods to the e-mail address that the Buyer indicated during the Registration process. The term for sending a letter is 8 hours from the moment of receipt of payment.

4.2. The Seller delivers the Goods on the basis of the Order placed by the Buyer.

4.4. The Goods are considered received by the Buyer, and the Seller's obligation to deliver the Goods is fulfilled from the moment of fixing the operation for sending the Goods via electronic communication channels to the Buyer's electronic mailbox in the Seller's automated electronic system.

4.5. In case of non-receipt of the Goods by the Buyer within the period specified in clauses 4.1 and 4.2. of this Agreement, or due to technical problems of the mail server of the Buyer's provider or for other reasons that have arisen, the Buyer must contact the Seller and report the non-receipt of the Goods. In this case, the Seller will re-deliver the Goods free of charge within 2 (two) working days from the date of receipt of the relevant message from the Buyer.

5. PRICES AND PAYMENT PROCEDURE

5.1. The range and price of Digital Goods are freely available on the Seller's Website.

5.2. The cost of the Goods indicated on the website may be changed by the Seller unilaterally at any time.

5.3. Payment for Digital Goods is made by bank transfer using the payment system installed on the seller's website.

5.4. The Buyer's obligation to pay for the Goods is considered fulfilled from the moment the funds are received on the Seller's settlement account

6. SPECIFICATIONS FOR DIGITAL GOODS

6.1. Digital goods are supplied in the following formats: PDF format, JPG format, mp4 format, XLS format.

7. RIGHTS AND OBLIGATIONS OF THE PARTIES

7.1. Rights and obligations of the Buyer:

7.1.1. The Buyer has the right to provide him with the Digital Goods in accordance with the technical characteristics indicated in this Agreement (clause 6)

7.1.2. The Buyer is obliged to pay for the Digital Good in full before receiving the Digital Good.

7.1.3. Goods purchased from the Seller are for the personal use of the Buyer. The Buyer undertakes not to distribute copies of the Digital Goods in any form or by any means.

7.2. Rights and obligations of the Seller:

7.2.1. The Seller has the right not to deliver Digital Goods for which he has not received cash in full.

7.2.2. The Seller is obliged to deliver the Digital Goods in the proper quality in accordance with the technical specifications indicated in this Agreement (clause 4).

8. RESPONSIBILITY OF THE PARTIES

8.1. For non-fulfillment or improper fulfillment of obligations under this agreement, the Parties shall be liable in accordance with the current legislation of the Russian Federation.

8.2. The Seller is responsible for the conformity of the delivered Digital Goods technical specifications indicated in clause 4, as well as for the compliance of the content of the Digital Good with all the norms of the law.

8.3. The Buyer is responsible for the proper use of the Digital Good in accordance with clause 7.1.3

8.4. The Seller is not responsible for the content and accuracy of the information provided by the Buyer when placing an Order.

8.5. The Buyer is responsible for the accuracy of the information provided when placing the Order.

SELLER'S DETAILS

IP Klimov Alexander Nikolaevich

OGRNIP 311222511700014

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Recently, corner joints have become increasingly popular in the manufacture of furniture. board materials with a bevel "on the mustache". In this article, our friend-colleague Sergey Novikov will share the secrets of making such a non-standard bar joint. Unlike a joint with an acute angle, which, firstly, is quite traumatic, and secondly, it is itself prone to chipping and deformation with minimal impact, this option is devoid of the above disadvantages.

So, first, by means of a tire, we saw down the mating edges at an angle of 45 degrees. In principle, this can also be done sawing machine, but a plunge-cut saw with a bar (2 passes) with respect to chipboard gives better results.

So, we get two parts with sharp corners, let's go directly to their connection.


To enhance the strength of the joint, we need a lamellar milling cutter (I think that you can get by with the usual one, but with special devices (so far, only unclear outlines in my head). Such flat furniture dowels (lamellas) are inserted into the grooves selected by the lamellar.


They do not allow the parts to move during the displacement, and also add strength to the final connection, significantly increasing the bonding surface.

We coat the mating surfaces with glue (any PVA-containing adhesives will do).


We connect the parts and clamp with clamps until the glue dries completely. After removing the clamps, glue streaks remain on the corner - they can not be removed, because. later they will fall off on their own.


The next step is ‘this is the smoothing of the corner. It is carried out either with an angle cutter (45 degrees), or cylindrical cutter, but for this, the router must have an angular base.

After cutting the corner, such a trapezoidal profile is obtained. Now our task is to ennoble this corner. You can, of course, just paint it or stick an edge, but the edge will not stick, and when painting it will not be possible to get a neat, even surface.


The cut must be patched. In this case, an automotive putty with fiberglass (which was on hand) is used, but it is better to use more homogeneous mixtures.

Degrease the putty surface. The solution for this should not contain water. We apply the composition with a spatula, rubbing it into the pores and leveling.


After final drying, finally smooth the surface with a sanding block with fine sandpaper. Now let's color it in. Cheap spray paint will work for this.


We glue the edges of the cut with masking tape to protect the surface and cover it with paint 2-3 times. For additional durability and shine, open it with a layer of acrylic varnish.


Modern furniture fittings offers a wide range of furniture fasteners, each of which has its own scope depending on the type of connection and the materials used. In this article, we will analyze in detail the main furniture fasteners that are used to make furniture in professional workshops and home craftsmen.


Furniture dowel

This type of fastening in the modern furniture industry is rarely used as an independent one. It is mainly used only for stiffening in conjunction with eccentric couplers.

Its main function in most cases of building furniture is to prevent the panels from moving relative to each other and to give additional rigidity to the mount.

It is usually used in conjunction with an eccentric coupler. It is made from hard rocks. natural wood, It has cylindrical shape. This is a very simple and cheap part that is used in wooden joints from time immemorial.

Craftsmen and carpentry workshops working with wood use furniture dowel as the main fastener. In this case, the furniture parts are connected to dowels, which are glued to the parts with PVA glue. In this case, together with PVA, the use of any other screeds no longer makes sense.

Screw tie

The screw tie consists of a screw and a barrel. Such a kit is used to fasten the end of one panel to the face of another. For example, for attaching a shelf to a side panel or a headboard to a drawer side.

This is a very strong fastening due to the large tightening stroke. The only drawback of this fastener is the visibility of the screw head with front side panels.

You can, of course, close them with special plugs, but this is also not a panacea. The plugs on the outer panel of the cabinet do not look aesthetically pleasing.

Skills are required to install this type of fastener. Beginners may encounter such a problem as inaccurate alignment of the holes of the barrel with the hole in the end of the shelf, and it is not so easy to pull an unwanted barrel out of its nest.

But the inconvenience during assembly and the aesthetic error is more than offset by the reliability and durability of the connection.

Conical coupler

A conical tie is often used for fastening thick chipboard panels (25 mm, 38 mm) and assembling frame facades on ties.

One of its advantages is the absence of visible hats on the front side of the panels. Unlike the screw in a turnbuckle, the stem used in a conical turnbuckle is screwed into the panel. The screed itself has 2 holes. One is for the stem, which is screwed into the panel layer. The second is for the conical tie screw. The disadvantage of this type of fastener is a small tightening stroke. Under heavy loads, the stem screw holes may loosen over time. Then the screed will simply stop working!

furniture corner

Pretty simple fastener. Easy to install. It does not require any additional holes in the panels for its installation. There are both metal and plastic options.

Enough durable look mounts. Of the shortcomings - it is visible and does not look aesthetically pleasing. But this is the main type of fastening in built-in furniture.

Euroscrew

This fastener is more often used to assemble modules kitchen furniture and in economy class furniture. Just like with a screw tie, euro screw heads or plugs are visible on the front side of the side panel of the cabinet.

It is screwed into the end of the shelf with pre- drilled hole. This screed also belongs to the economy class. To install it, 2 holes are drilled - into the end of the shelf and into the face of the part. They are attached perpendicular to each other. The most commonly used euroscrews are 7 mm in diameter and 50 or 70 mm long.

This screed has 2 significant drawbacks:

Firstly, the outer sidewall of the cabinet, if there are a lot of shelves behind it, as a rule, it is all “mutilated” with hats or euroscrew plugs. Therefore, these fasteners are used in economy furniture. In kitchens, this drawback is hidden thanks to the cabinets standing in a row.

Secondly, furniture assembled on euro screws cannot be disassembled and assembled more than 3 times, since screwing the tie into the end of the shelf destroys its internal structure.

Eccentric coupler

One of the most popular types of fasteners today. All quality furniture it is assembled on an eccentric coupler (minifix). Its principle of operation is as follows: an eccentric rod is screwed into the face of the part to which the other panel will be attached to the end, into which, in turn, the eccentric itself is screwed through the end of the other shelf, and then the eccentric turns the rod into itself.

The eccentric turnbuckle is always used in conjunction with the wooden dowel, which was described earlier. The dowel provides additional rigidity of the assembly, prevents displacement of the fixed panels relative to each other.

Furniture assembled on this screed can be disassembled and reassembled an unlimited number of times! There are different diameters of the eccentric itself 25, 15, 12 mm. The most common is the eccentric with a diameter of 15 mm.

Since the eccentric itself is visible on the side panel, there are plugs for it to match the color of the panel. Among the disadvantages is the weakening of the screed in the event of spontaneous rotation of the eccentric.

To avoid this, some hardware manufacturers have provided notches directed in the opposite direction from its rotation during installation, which enhances grip.

Varieties of eccentric couplers

As practice shows, furniture is assembled and disassembled with great difficulty if all the fasteners in it are metal ties, described above. Suppose, in order to remove one shelf, it is necessary, in practice, to disassemble half the cabinet. For horizontal parts (shelves), it is more convenient to use eccentrics that allow you to place horizontal parts in an already assembled furniture box. Their principle of operation is the same as that of the previously described eccentric coupler. The only difference is that the eccentric, located in the shelf, is mounted on the rod screwed into the face of the sidewall from above and it is not necessary to disassemble half the cabinet for this. In some factories, this type of fastener is called a shelf support, as it is intended only for horizontal parts. Horizontal shelves assembled using these ties additionally tighten the connection, which enhances the rigidity of the entire furniture frame.

There is a wide variety of eccentric-type furniture fasteners on the furniture market, but the principle of operation is the same for everyone. Knowing the principle of operation of one type of eccentric screed, you can easily figure out the rest.