I decided to try to build a backlight into a screwdriver with my own hands, since I was tired of periodically arming myself with a carrier or a flashlight in one hand, a screwdriver in the other, and even holding the screws with my teeth. I don’t know how to assemble the backlight according to the mind, so I assembled and configured it at random. We look and read everything that came out of this a little lower in the topic. homemade jigsaw lighting, powered by 220.
This is what it looks like before installing the backlight. The complete set of this model, there was also an instruction manual, but it was not included in the frame (it lies far away) :-)
A slightly blurry shot of the place where the button and diodes were installed.
I picked out the LEDs from a Chinese lantern, and took a switch from it. You can, of course, simply tape the flashlight itself to the screwdriver with tape, then you won’t have to disassemble the screwdriver itself, and such illumination will shine brighter. :-)
I shortened one of the contacts on the button so that they became the same.
I disconnected the battery and used a tester to determine where it is (+) and where it is (-)
I decided to install 4 LEDs, because the space allows. I fed them sequentially.
I don’t understand much about electrics, so I started selecting a resistor with 5 kOhm and settled on 1.1 kOhm 0.5 W.
Everything has been selected and prepared, now you can disassemble the screwdriver. The screws are of different lengths, so we stack them according to the location of the screwdriver holes.
I tried to power the lights from the motor so that the backlight would turn on simultaneously with the trigger being pressed, but I didn’t like the fact that the brightness changed with the engine speed.
I thought about disassembling the switch and looking for a place where I could hook up the diodes, but when I saw this picture under the cover, I somehow didn’t want to disassemble it further. :-)
Then, after thinking carefully, I came to the conclusion that the backlight was not needed all the time, so I started looking for a place to install a switch for the flashlight.
It didn’t take me long to look for a place, since there wasn’t much of it there; in some places I had to sharpen the stiffening ribs. I decided to place the button immediately behind the bit holder, folded both halves and drilled a hole in the base of the case with a Dremel, periodically trying on the button. Since the case is thick and the black rim of the button does not come out, I chamfered the case around the hole.
To have something to glue the button on, I found this canopy.
I put it in a pocket between the stiffening ribs and filled it with hot glue, leaving space for the button.
I cut out and glued a piece of glue stick onto the button; I probably should have poured the canopy right under the right angle, then you wouldn’t have to cut out such a crooked piece. :-)
I tried it on but did not glue it, since the wires were not soldered yet.
I glued paper tape in place of the future holes for LEDs, marked the centers of the holes, marked them, drilled first with a thin drill, then drilled them to the diameter of the LEDs.
By the way, when drilling for a diode, try to set the direction of the drill so that when you install the LED in its place and turn it on, the light falls just below the drill chuck. Then you will not need to adjust the LEDs in your seats. A little lower, this is a correction for long drill or a bat.
Trying on diodes, remove the interfering partitions, but without fanaticism, otherwise the case will become rubber. :-)
I soldered the wires to the button and the LEDs, after which I glued the button to the piece of hardware, heat-shrinked the resistor and placed it vertically next to the button.
I connected the diodes to these wires under the main switch, simply cut off the insulation from them and soldered my wires onto them. I did not solder on the terminals themselves, so as not to overheat the switch body and the delicate insides.
We connect the battery and check.
I closed the halves of the housing and made a test switch on with the nozzle installed, placing it against the wall so that I could see where the light bulbs were shining. After which, I disassembled it, coated the button and LEDs with hot glue for fixation, and finally assembled the screwdriver.
The button is tight and slightly recessed, so you won’t accidentally press it. The LEDs stick out, but time will tell; if they get in the way, I'll grind them off flush.
A fragment of a video testing this backlight, so to speak, in the field.
Overall, I’m happy with the lighting; I think a flashlight taped together would have looked worse. :-)
The author of the channel, Viktor Voronov, spoke about his idea of making a powerful backlight, thanks to which there will be no problems when tightening screws not only in a dark place, but even in absolute darkness. The master made the backlight for the screwdriver based on an old flashlight that no longer worked.
I disassembled the flashlight and removed the LEDs from it. They give off very strong light.
Carefully clamped the LEDs in a small vice. This makes it convenient to solder wires to the terminals of the light bulb. I decided to use two LEDs, then there would be enough light.
The circuit is simple, it was more difficult to insert it. I connected two LEDs in one direction and one 220 ohm resistor in series. The circuit is assembled correctly - the glow is observed.
Now you need to prepare a place to install the circuit. The bottom of the screwdriver is suitable for this. Drill 2 holes. This is a place for light bulbs. Now you need to remove one side of the screwdriver. It's easy to do this with a screwdriver. Some screwdrivers have screws with a special head, then you will need a special key.
I removed one cover and now we will place the parts in their places. Fix the parts using hot glue. This is a convenient and practical way. This is easier than fastening with steel fasteners.
Let's make a switch for the LEDs. The place for this will be a rectangular hole. All is ready. Correct position wires so that the LEDs start to glow. If this cannot be achieved immediately, swap the wires.
As you can see, the LEDs are glowing and let’s put the screwdriver back to its original state. Checking the backlight. This works very well. You can see that the backlight is very good fit. You can work even in complete darkness..
Source: youtu.be/r7UYFx7AdfE
How to make your own backlight for a screwdriver?
If you work in a dark place, you need lighting, we will help you make it using available materials
You will need a cap
And 12 volt LEDs, crystal size 50 by 50
Cut 3 pieces
Soldering the wires
To the plus - red, to the minus - black
Bend to fit the cap
Filming protective covering from tape
And glue it to the cap using drops of superglue
Among screwdrivers in the high price category there are screwdrivers with light working area. Sometimes this is very convenient, so we decided to modify the Skill 2006 AA screwdriver with our own hands. At one time, it was one of the cheapest screwdrivers with a battery voltage of 12 volts and a traction force of 28 N*m.
Having carefully examined the screwdriver, you will notice that the installation locations LED backlight where it is usually installed in expensive models - not due to the presence of a screw securing the case.
As a result, it was decided to install backlight into the battery, and power is supplied to the LED through a switch mounted in the same battery.
Disassembling the battery is not difficult: unscrew 4 screws, remove the lower half of the case and, gently pressing on the contacts, remove the battery banks themselves.
The LED and button will be set to upper body battery, the LED will be directed towards work area screwdriver.
To install the LED and switch, we make holes in the upper housing.
The screwdriver is ready for installation of lighting.
Now about the lighting itself.
We will power the white cross-section LED, designed for a supply voltage of 3 volts, from a 12 volt battery. To do this, you need to install a quenching resistor. In the search engine we enter “selection of a quenching resistor for an LED” and a whole bunch of links to online calculators are displayed. We go to any one and see something similar to this: 
We enter the data and get a ready-made calculation. First, I introduced a 20 mA LED current, but at this current the light was not very bright. As a result, a resistor with a resistance of 270 Ohms was chosen.
We are looking for such a resistor (I found a Soviet MLT in my deposits, soldered off from somewhere). Next, we solder the elements to each other, not forgetting to mark the connection polarity in any way. It turned out that the LED reached the button with its leg.
After installing the button and LED, fill them with hot glue.
Solder the wires to the battery terminals. With the positive wire, everything is simple - there is a place for soldering, but the negative copper (or brass) contact is covered with metal, to which rosin does not stick. We do it simply: scrape it off with a knife metal coating to non-ferrous metal and solder with rosin without any problems. You can, of course, use special fluxes, it will be even more convenient. 
So, we soldered it, turned on the backlight - it works. Now we assemble the battery in reverse order.
As a result, we got a screwdriver with backlight independent of the engine.
At the same time, the battery can now be used as a flashlight when searching for some fallen small item.
Any serious machine needs its own backlight, independent of anything else. At one point I got tired of spinning table lamp during work, directing it first to the machine, then back to the table. And then I hardware store got an LED module...
The module is designed for 12 volts, but I didn’t want to fence off the transformer power supply, although the space allowed.
Having picked the compound in the right places to make connections, I sketched out its diagram:
The diagram shows two pairs of LEDs connected to each other in series and connected to the power source in parallel. A banal reduction in the value of the resistors did not produce results, since when connected in series they refused to burn at 5 volts, even when replacing the resistors with jumpers.
The most the simplest way remake the module to operate on 5 volts - unsolder 2 resistors and use jumpers to achieve a parallel connection of the LEDs:
With such a connection The resistor value should be slightly lower than 33 ohms , but there wasn’t a wide selection of low-resistance resistors, much less SMD ones. The brightness of the glow dropped a little, but not fatally.
Now all that’s left to do is assemble everything into a heap, or rather secure it on a drilling machine.
The telephone charger was attached using a clamp, already behind the existing bolt, so as not to drill into the cast iron. The pins of the plug are slightly shortened, the wires soldered to them are inserted into the junction box of the electric motor. When the machine is turned on, voltage will be supplied to the motor with the power supply, and the backlight will light up.
Thinking about it for a long time the best option location of the LED module on the machine, I came to the conclusion that it it is better to attach it to the front part of the quill . In this position, the work area will be better illuminated, and the shadow from the drill will not interfere.
For more uniform illumination necessary for back side place another module, but for now I considered it unnecessary.
That's basically it. In general, operation will show whether illumination of the rear part of the drilling area is necessary. There’s one more detail that doesn’t make me happy: the power supply turns on with a 2-second delay. If I can’t get used to it, I’ll have to install another block.
Added 01/01/17
I was pleased with the backlight, I even got used to the fact that the power supply starts with a delay, but...
The original Chinese cartridge died; a self-clamping one, 2 times longer, was installed as a replacement. When drilling with small drills, it began to create a shadow. It was decided to make a ring light:
Made with 5050 LEDs and 1206 resistors (30 ohms for 5 volts)
At first glance it seemed that the backlight was ideal:
But when using small drills we have a spot in which nothing is visible:
I had to make an additional flashlight using a one-watt LED:
The flashlight was blinding. Put on a plastic ring:
I installed another power supply in a new location:
In general terms it turned out something like this:
Now we have normal light:
Well, a few conclusions to all of the above:
- Short chuck + long drill = Ring light
- Long chuck + short drill = Side illuminated
- Don’t bother and buy a machine lamp with a gooseneck
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