Do-it-yourself replacement of a cast iron sewer tee. Tee for sewerage: choice of material, replacement method How to replace a tee on a turntable

The cast iron tee is one of the main elements of the sewer system.

It is an adapter that connects three pipes; by the way, one of them has a smaller diameter than the others.

This device is installed in places where the pipeline acquires several directions.

Many people wonder whether it is possible to replace a cast iron sewer tee? Practice shows that this can be done, but it is quite difficult with your own hands. Firstly, the technical process itself is quite complicated, and secondly, for this type of repair sewer pipes you will need an expensive tool. Well, in general, it is quite possible to replace this part of the system, because it is not cast together with the pipe.

This is what a cast iron tee looks like

Replacing a tee using an angle grinder

Dismantling cast iron sewer

Replacing old piping is no easy task, especially when it comes to cast iron. The method of connecting the pipes plays a decisive role in the labor intensity of the process. The set of tools that will be used also depends on this. So, in order to make a more or less accurate repair sewer system, more precisely, its complete replacement, you will need:

• grinder with cutting and grinding discs included;
• blowtorch;
• hammer and screwdrivers of various lengths, thicknesses, crosspiece;
• pipe wrench and chisel.

To implement complete dismantling cast iron sewer you will also need a hammer drill, a knife, a steel wedge, a chisel, a pipe cutter, and a crowbar. Do not forget that the first step is to determine how to connect the elements of the sewer system.

Hammer and pipe cutter

What to do if cast iron pipes are connected with sulfur

You can determine with what substance the pipeline was built using a blowtorch. If, when it is brought to the junction, the substance begins to melt, then it is definitely sulfur. The destruction process itself is divided into several stages:

1. The pipe that is located farthest from the riser is the first to break. This is done with a hammer and continues until a crosspiece is found that needs to be loosened.
2. At this time, you need to connect a blowtorch or gas heating pad. Under influence high temperatures the sulfur melts, and accordingly, it is possible to loosen the pipe. Before carrying out this procedure, you need to wear gloves to avoid burning your hands.
3. After the sulfur has been removed, you can try to remove the cross from the riser.

This is what a blowtorch looks like

Description of the procedure for removing a cast iron sewer tee

A shaped piece of piping called a tee is located at the very bottom of the main riser. There are several ways to extract it. And it’s better to involve a professional in this. All cast iron tees for sewerage can be dismantled in three ways:

Breaking apart a cast iron tee with a screwdriver

• using a screwdriver and milk;
• by heating;
• using a grinder.

In the first case, you need to follow a certain order. First, you gently tap the tee. A gap should form between the pipe and the cross, into which a screwdriver can then be drilled and the tee removed.

Screwdriver and hammer

The second method is faster, but is accompanied by selection unpleasant odor. Most often, a gas heating pad or blowtorch is used when it is necessary to disassemble a connection with small diameter pipes. You can do this yourself, but if you don’t have experience, it’s better to hire a gas welder.

Gas welder services

The last method is to use an angle grinder. With its help, you need to cut off some parts of the tee and leave a small piece of pipe. After the remains of the product are cut, the socket is closed with a plug. The cut part of the cross is knocked out with a hammer. Finally, the treatment area is cleared of cast iron residues. It is worth noting that it is the last method of disassembling the tee that is the most practical and reliable, and does not require much time.

If after dismantling there is burning sulfur left on the crosspiece, then it must be lowered into a bucket with cold water, it is desirable that it be iron. After the socket has cooled, you can begin installing a new riser made of plastic.

At the very beginning of the toilet renovation, at the stage of dismantling the toilet, sink, water and sewer pipes, I came across an unexpected problem in the form of a leaking riser. The house is practically new - built 3 years ago. There were no problems observed before the repair began. But after the drain pipes were disconnected and the holes in the riser crosspiece were plugged with plugs, the riser began to leak.
Well, not exactly a river. Not even a trickle, but an almost imperceptible drip leak. Nevertheless, she did not give peace. This was all aggravated by the fact that it was time to start building new wall plumbing box. And after its construction, access to the lower elements of the sewer riser will become seriously more difficult. The reason for the digging could not be explained.

Everything looked something like this. The lowest joint of the riser pipes, or rather the pipe sticking out of the floor and the cross inserted into it, was constantly wet. However, there were no visible signs that water was getting there from above. Moreover, upon careful examination with a flashlight, periodic expulsion of drops from the lower pipe was clearly observed. Actually, this gave rise to the version that the cause of the leak was a poor-quality or missing rubber sealing collar of the pipe.

One way or another, previously I was still thinking about replacing the tee, since two more clients were added to the riser: washing machine and a dishwasher in the kitchen behind the next wall. Previously, in the bathroom, we easily changed the riser tee together with our godfather, spending about 20 seconds on this procedure. But changing the tee yourself from a known current sewer riser I didn’t really want something. As far as I know, risers, both sewer and water, are the responsibility of the DEZ. Therefore, I called there and invited the plumber Vasily, the author of the legendary phrase “domestic valve with a cap for the seal,” to come to 18:00.

Vasily agreed that the reason was probably the lack of a cuff. However, he said that it would be better for me to invite a team to repair the riser tomorrow morning or afternoon. To this I assured him that he could count on me as a member of the team, and that if a team of two people was enough, then it would be time to start the repairs right now.

Okay, let's look at the cuff first! - Vasily decided and the procedure began.

We need to change it! But how to disassemble a sewer riser?

Really? HOW? Now everything will be told in detail.

No- I will say to those who think that in order to remove the pipe from the riser, the entire pipe assembly is moved up or down - this is unrealistic, since the pipes sticking out from the ceiling and floor are fixed quite thoroughly.

And not so- will be the answer to those who believe that the riser should be tilted to the side and then its length will increase, which will make it possible to release the element.

In fact, disassembling the riser is quite simple! For this purpose, it has a special element - compensator. This is a short pipe, the bell of which is significantly longer than the 5 cm bells usual for all other elements of the route. Thus, this compensator can be pushed onto the upper pipe by 15-20 centimeters, which will make it possible to easily disassemble the sewer riser and replace any of its elements .

IMPORTANT! If you decide to make such a replacement, then to make the work easier, 2-3 hours before starting, drop a little machine oil into the connections of the compensator and other elements that you plan to disassemble. And on the wall it would be completely useful to mark the original heights of the joints. Just in case.

So. Having moved the compensator up along with all the tees attached to it from below, we took out and opened the most bottom connection. Vasily fished the cuff out of the pipe. And while none of the residents of the upper 9 floors decided to wash themselves, or, which is certainly much more fun, to flush the toilet, we pushed the cross back into the pipe.
The cuff did not cause any complaints. There was no particular point in changing the cuff, and I suggested that Vasily replace the lower tee with a new cross. Vasily asked to see it, and after examining it, expressed satisfaction with the quality of the element, finding it higher than that of the existing element. Indeed, all surfaces of the cross were perfectly smooth, unlike the noticeably rough old one.

After waiting 3-4 minutes for the sound of water inside the sewer to subside, we moved the compensator up a second time. Vasily inserted a new (just in case) cuff into the lower pipe - 3 seconds. Disconnected the old cross - 2 seconds. Then a bad and very suspicious sound began to appear in the riser! ( drumroll) Increasing in strength, like an approaching locomotive, the sound left no doubt that its cause was 6 liters of water from the toilet tank + a certain amount of human waste products - in liquid or somewhat more solid form.
Having absolutely no desire to verify the type of product with our own eyes, we, with coordinated movements, installed a new cross into the lower pipe and moved the compensator and upper tee down, within 3 seconds. The entire replacement took 8 seconds, although the last three seconds, it seemed to me, dragged on for a very long time...

Such a quick replacement is possible if all the old elements being separated and the new elements being connected are pre-treated with lubricant at the joints. If you don’t have machine oil on hand, then, at worst, you can use regular sunflower oil.

We installed all the riser holders back, we went to wash our hands and asked ourselves the question:

Why did the sewer riser leak?

The rubber cuff was removed, the narrowing of the cross was pushed all the way into the lower pipe. There is only one reason left - there is a crack in the crosspiece. And it can only be in one place - in one that could not be seen while it was part of the riser. This is the bottom corner of the tee.

Turning it upside down, we immediately discovered this crack.

Judging by the appearance, the crack was far from fresh. Apparently it was clogged from the inside with you-know-what, and when it dried, it formed a sealing layer. However, all you had to do was move the outlet a little and this unreliable sealant stopped performing its functions.

See how shitty it is! - Vasily pointed his finger at the defective tee.

I just offered to take this with me to the DEZ as proof of the repair of the riser without calling the emergency team. He politely refused.
Just as politely, he did not refuse a small thank you, and, as it seemed to me, very pleased with the work done and the reason found, he took his leave.

And who is he - our today's hero?

ZYZH: It is clear that drawing conclusions about quality based on such a small sample is incorrect. Therefore, if you have something to say about the quality of this or that manufacturer of PP pipes for sewerage, please comment!

Fan pipes are replaced for various reasons, the most common of which are related to apartment renovations or changes in housing layout. For these situations, replacing sewer pipes is considered a normal process that guarantees the operational durability of the reconstructed apartment or manufactured repair work. In addition, communication replacement is also carried out when moving sanitary fixtures. This requires the drawing up by a qualified specialist of a new wiring diagram that prevents the occurrence of possible operational problems.

Cast iron pipes tend to become overgrown with various drainage residues, which leads to a decrease in their permeability and, accordingly, to the formation of blockages and air locks. In case of prolonged inactivity in such cases, it will be necessary to replace sewer pipes with new modern and long-lasting materials. Such manipulations can be carried out independently. This requires a full-scale preparation of all materials, tools for work, as well as viewing some instructions and installation tips. The step-by-step process of replacing the communication system consists of:

1. Dismantling old pipes (mainly cast iron).
2. Removing partitions (if necessary) that interfere with repair procedures.
3. Laying of new sewer fittings and their installation.
4. Connecting plumbing fixtures to the new sewer line.

Required set of installation materials and equipment

First of all, you need to decide on the raw materials used to make the pipes. It is possible to replace sewer pipes with plastic and cast iron products.

The most commonly used plastic raw materials are polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride, which is due to their:

• relatively light weight, which makes them easier to unload and transport.
• simple installation that does not require special tools.
• Good throughput due to their internal smoothness, which prevents possible blockages.

If you do not want to install plastic communications, it is allowed to use traditional materials. Today, the production of cast iron fittings is carried out using new technologies that provide the “insides” of pipes with a special coating that reduces the resistance of moving liquids. Modern socketless sewerage systems made of cast iron are characterized by simple installation due to clamp connections using elastic gaskets made of special rubber. Of course, the assembly of such a structure will be more expensive, but it will ensure durability.

Before replacing sewer pipes, it is necessary to think over the schematic layout of the new sewer communication, which can be an analogue of the old one or redesigned for plastic pipes. After drawing up a plan, you need to take care of the necessary materials:

• About PVC or polypropylene pipes having dimensions of 50-70 and 100-150 millimeters;
• About rubber connecting bell seals;
• About one material fittings with pipes, the number and configuration of which is determined by the wiring diagram;
• About the Compensator (rubberized cuff) with a diameter of 110 millimeters, connecting plastic elements with cast iron;
• About clamps corresponding to pipes in size, due to which wall or other pipe fastening is carried out;
• ABOUT plastic pipe, creating a transition from a plastic pipe to a larger diameter cast iron pipe;
• About the semicircular mandrel, due to which the expansion pipe is lowered;
• About a chisel or hammer;
• About the pipe cutter and hammer drill;
• About a plumb line or level;
• About a pencil or marker for marking.
• About safety glasses.

Riser dismantling process

To cut pipes, a pipe cutter is used; if one is not available, a grinder is used. The circumference of the pipe lends itself to two horizontal cuts at a distance of about 20 centimeters, which should not be parallel, but connecting at one point (the letter “V”). Complete re-cutting of the pipe is not allowed, as this will cause subsidence of the upper riser and disc pinching. This can cause the disc to rupture and damage the master. Having cut the pipes, it is necessary to drive a wedge into them, separating the section of the riser and then removing it. In its absence, they resort to vertical cuts, preventing the resulting fragments from entering the sewer. Then, using a screwdriver or chisel, the resulting area is broken, the remains of which are removed with a hammer.

The next step in replacing sewer pipes is to cut its upper part at the required height. During this manipulation, you should leave a piece of the riser for further pressing of the shaped element during installation. Guided by the proper length of the pipe, according to the markings applied along its circumference, cutting is done using a grinder. To create a perpendicular cut, it is advisable to use construction tape. The riser is broken using a hammer due to a sharp blow to the lower section of the pipe. The resulting “teeth” are removed by using a grinder with a grinding disc. The formed holes are closed using rags.

The process of removing the lower section of the old pipe

These manipulations begin by checking the connecting strength of the sewerage elements. To begin with, the upper pipe section is carefully rocked, while maintaining the integrity of the lower bell. Even with slight rocking, it is possible to remove loose elements. If the tee wobbles slightly, use a nail puller or crowbar to further loosen and dismantle it. When installing the riser, the old tee is replaced with a new one.

With a rigidly placed tee, it is necessary to qualitatively break the joint, accompanying this manipulation with its swing. If possible, it is allowed to use a hammer drill with a thin drill installed on it with a missing pobedite tip. Clearing the joint mortar should be done carefully, using a screwdriver or chisel. If these manipulations failed to remove the lower part of the riser, then you should use a grinder, which cuts off the cross at a distance of two centimeters from the pipe socket.

Installation process of a new sewer system

When starting to replace sewer pipes at this stage, it is advisable to be guided by the following sequence:

1. Installation of a tee, for which a cuff or rubber gasket is inserted into the lower socket of a cast iron pipe.
2. Lubricating the Tee End liquid soap to facilitate installation work.
3. Inserting a cross into the socket. To ensure the connecting density, a linen winding or silicone sealant is used.
4. Cutting the main plastic pipe to the required length, removing chamfers and irregularities using sandpaper.

When forming a cast-iron-plastic joint, the assembly and the tee are placed at a distance of one centimeter from each other. Correct replacement of communications is possible through the use of sliding couplings rather than expansion pipes.

To wall-mount the riser, the wall is drilled and the pipes are then secured using clamps. If the distance for installation is insufficient, before manipulation the wall is compacted with a 5-centimeter board, followed by installation of fasteners. Such a board must undergo antiseptic treatment (oil impregnation). The installation of the upper clamp should be close to the socket, and the lower one - to the shaped element of the expansion pipe. Stability can be achieved with three fastenings.

Before the final replacement of sewer pipes, a fitting assembly is carried out. Only after this the necessary rubber cuffs and gaskets are disassembled and installed. To facilitate assembly, the joints are coated with liquid soap or shampoo. It is necessary to remember to tighten the upper fastening clamp before lowering the pipe into the tee. At the same time, it must be supported using a semicircular mandrel, which serves for pipe lowering.

After these manipulations, they proceed to tightening all the clamps and connecting the sewerage system, followed by checking the riser functioning. Completing the process of replacing sewer pipes involves sewing up the riser to prevent the pipe from slipping due to thermal fluctuations and “jumping out” of the tee.
It is necessary to remember about the correct use of the sewer and preventing the entry of unacceptable objects into it. After all, even after replacing unsuitable pipes modern materials, will not have a positive effect.

How to change the sewer (faucet) tee behind the toilet yourself

Good day everyone, I will describe a simple way to replace a tee on a “rotator”. For this we need; ordinary wire cutters, soldering acid, soldering iron, tweezers and the spinner itself and a new tee). Many people have spinners with rusted, deformed, broken hooks, and in order to replace it it is necessary to disassemble the entire structure of the spinner, which is not always convenient, and sometimes impossible without “consequences,” because putting the entire structure of the spinner back together turns into a fetish )

I don’t remember where I saw or read this method, but the point is that this method remained the only acceptable one for me both in terms of time and labor costs.

So, let's start, turn on our soldering iron and wait for it to heat up, any low-power soldering iron will do, about 40 W is the best, in our store its price is about 100 rubles)) Soldering acid is also needed, absolutely any kind and solder, sold in all sorts of “radio equipment” price 20 rubles per bottle.

On the new tee, we bite the eye closer to the fore-end and bend it slightly, so that the eye for the tee of the spinner fits into the resulting gap.

If the Tee has any nano coating)) it is necessary to clean it off with sandpaper 1...1.5 mm from the edges of the gap.

Then we put the tee into the eye of the spinner, bend the eye into its original position, etch our cleaned edges of the tee break with acid (carefully with a toothpick!!!) and solder it with regular solder).

That's it, the tee has been replaced. This procedure has virtually no effect on the strength of the tee (IMHO).

By the way, if you went too far with acid, it’s okay, after soldering, wash the spoon with soap and karachun acid)

I hope some of the things I wrote will be useful to someone. See you at the reservoirs)

The tee is the most popular shaped element. For sewage installations, it can be cast iron or plastic. The choice of a certain type will depend on the specific situation and several important nuances.

Often when repairing a riser or replacing it, it becomes necessary to replace the sewer tee. This can be done independently or with the help of specialists. In the first case, it is important to have basic knowledge and follow a clear sequence of actions. So, it should immediately be noted that tees can be oblique and straight. Such elements are used for different angles connection to the sewer riser.

Installation of a plastic sewer tee and connection to a cast iron pipe

The sewer crosspiece changes in the following situations:

• if you need to reduce the level of placement of this element;
• if this part is already largely worn out.

The reasons for replacing the cross also include the impossibility of cleaning the sewer system if serious deposits occur on the internal surfaces pipeline.

What material should the sewer tee be made of?

Most often, situations occur when the tee that connects the riser to the internal wiring cracks or rots. Then you cannot do without replacing it. As a result, the question arises, what material should you choose?

To choose the right part, it is important to familiarize yourself with the range available:

• Cast iron tees have good mechanical strength. Despite this, such elements are afraid of shock loads. As for the compression and tension load, there is no need to worry that this will cause deformation or chipping. The average service life of the product is about 25 years;
• Polyvinyl chloride is considered to be a modern material for the manufacture of tees. Most of plastic sewerage is made from this material. The service life in this case will be at least 50 years. The advantages include plasticity, and the disadvantages include splitting under heavy loads and impacts;
• The best material is polypropylene, which is lighter than PVC products, but has good rigidity, wear resistance and resistance to temperature changes. In this case, the service life will be the same as in the previous option.

Now there is a silent one on sale plastic sewer, which has a multilayer structure and is characterized by greater thickness. If there is a need to open a cast iron riser, then it is more advisable to give preference to a silent product.

For some, the ratio of the cost of materials is of considerable importance, since it can vary greatly, which affects the family budget. Using an example, we will consider the need to replace a straight tee with a diameter of 110 mm, which has all the necessary bends. The cost of such an element can be increased by one and a half times due to the use of a multilayer structure and increased surface thickness. Of course, such parameters turn out to be attractive, so many do not mind overpaying 100-200 rubles.

When deciding on your choice, you should know that a durable tee is more needed when the area located above it settles, since it is because of this that the tees often crack. Please note that a cast iron product does not prevent subsidence, it only prevents it from splitting quickly.

In this case, it is advisable to give preference to lighter, more durable and inexpensive plastic. What the material is, PVC or PP, does not really matter, since the performance characteristics of plastics are almost the same.

Replacing a tee

Sooner or later, the time comes when it is necessary to replace a sewer tee mounted under a bathtub or other plumbing fixture. To perform the replacement yourself, you need to follow certain instructions. In addition, it is important to prepare the following items in advance:

• the tee itself;
• you need to buy a compensating pipe of the same diameter;
• for transition from cast iron socket to plastic pipe you will need a rubber cuff.

Work should begin with securing the pipe above the sewer tee. If this condition is not met, subsidence may occur, which can lead to leakage and collapse of the mounting hole.

So, the process should be performed in the following sequence:

• you need to turn off the water along the riser, warning neighbors in advance about the plumbing work;
• the toilet is dismantled and the apartment sewage system is disconnected;
• a hole should be drilled in the wall behind the riser using a drill with a diameter of 9.5 mm, and the level of this hole should be about one and a half meters from the floor;
• then a 10 mm piece of smooth reinforcement is driven in;
• the riser needs to be tied together with wire at a level slightly below the reinforcement;
• such a clamp should not be allowed to slip along the pipe;
• the same clamp must be placed over the tee, lifting the pipe with a crowbar until it stops;
• The clamp located above must be securely pulled to the reinforcement.

Dismantling works

• Using a chisel or hammer drill, you need to beat off concrete sealing for convenient removal of the tee and socket that are located under it.
• During this work, it is important to be extremely careful, since pieces of concrete that fall into the riser can clog the sewer.
• Using a screwdriver and a light hammer, you need to remove the cement seal and heel from the tee socket, if possible.
• The riser is cut at a distance a little more length compensating pipe, namely under the tee from the socket. The next cut should be about 10 cm lower. After this, the piece of pipe can be safely removed.
• The tee can be removed with a gas wrench or manually, but it is important to turn it. After removing the part, clean the bell located under it.

Installation work

To replace a cast iron sewer tee plastic element, you need to adhere to a certain sequence of work:

• you need to clean the riser from dirt above the cut and old paint for the length of the bell;
• A simple commercial plastic clamp is placed directly under the cut. Its role is to keep the compensator from moving;
• Next, a compensating pipe should be pulled onto the cleaned section of the pipe. To make the process easier, you can treat the element with liquid or regular soap;
• Using a rubber cuff, the tee must be carefully inserted into the socket;
• if the process is carried out correctly, the compensator should fit into the upper socket of the tee, after which it is fixed using a clamp;
• Upon completion of the work, the toilet is installed and the comb is connected.

To perform the work you need to acquire the following tools and materials:

• new cross;
• compensating clutch;
• tape measure;
• hacksaw;
• pencil;
• gloves;
• A 20-centimeter piece of pipe, the diameter of which can be up to 3 cm.

Stage-by-stage execution of work

• At the first stage, preparatory work. You need to ask your upstairs neighbors in advance not to use the sewer system for a while. It is easier if plumbing processes are performed on the top floor.
• At the second stage, the pipe is marked for its correct cutting. To do this, you need to retreat 7.5 cm from the upper border of the socket, making a mark for cutting. To make an even cut, it is recommended to use the welding method. The pipe is wrapped in newspaper and the edge is aligned evenly. Next, markings are made along the entire circumference. There is no need to cut immediately; you should remove the pipes that are connected to the cross. If special cuffs are used to secure the riser to the wall, they must be removed.
• Now you need to clean the work area from dirt. And prevent possible leakage from forgetful neighbors. To do this, unscrew the lid of the inspection tee, then insert a condom into the part of the pipe located above this hole. It is usually put on the tip of the tube in advance and tied with thread. Now you need to inflate it and tie it. By performing such actions, you can be saved from uncleanness for a while. Despite these precautions, you need to work quickly.
• On last stage the pipe is cut according to pre-prepared markings. The upper area is tilted to the side to dismantle the old cross. Putting on gloves, the old element is carefully removed, and a new cross is installed in its place. Now you should put a compensator on the pipe, to make it easier, it is recommended to apply a soap solution to the sealing collar of the compensator.

We can say that the bulk of the work has been completed. After this, you need to pierce the condom and screw the lid of the inspection hole back on. If necessary, plugs are installed at the crosspiece outlets or pipes are connected to it, which are then fixed to the wall using fasteners.

Despite the warning, some neighbors forget about the request not to use the sewer, so it is recommended to have an empty basin on hand that can be used when draining sewage.