Country wooden houses are being built more and more often. This is explained not only by fashion old Russian style but also for other, quite material reasons.
For example, dry wood retains heat 2.5 times better, how brickwork of the same thickness, and the wooden walls, gradually drying out, emit pleasant-smelling substances into the air and thereby create a favorable microclimate.
Modern building codes (SNiP 23-02-2003) establish requirements for the thermal insulation of buildings. However, a wooden house, even built in compliance with all the rules, dries up and shrinks about three years after construction and is not always warm enough to meet these requirements. For this reason, it has to be insulated.
Usually wooden buildings warm outside. This is explained by the fact that during the external laying of thermal insulation, the dew point shifts from the surface or from the thickness of the wall to the surface or inside the layer of external thermal insulation. This means that logs or beams warm up well and always remain dry. And under such conditions, the wood is well protected from decay and destruction by fungi.
However, for some reason, it is not always possible to lay the thermal insulation on the outside. For example, old wooden buildings, considered architectural monuments, local authorities do not allow insulation in this way, as it changes them appearance. In such cases, the owner is forced to mount heat-insulating materials from the inside. Details about the features and technology of these works can be found in the article "".
Wall insulation wooden house from the inside with your own hands is possible if comply with such rules:
- Before starting work, make thermotechnical calculations, taking into account the thermal conductivity and wall thickness, as well as insulation materials various types and thicknesses. With all these calculations, the dew point must remain inside the wooden wall for any temperature fluctuations.
- For internal installation you need to choose heat insulators that do not emit harmful substances and not subject to decomposition by fungi and bacteria at high humidity.
- Porous insulation must be reliably isolated from the wall with a vapor-tight membrane, and from the side of the room - vapor-permeable. In this case, the wood does not freeze and does not get wet, since only outside air with a low vapor content penetrates into it. And if condensate forms in the heat-insulating material when the dew point shifts, then when the temperature in the room rises, it will evaporate and exit through the pores of the vapor-permeable membrane.
- Between the finish and the protected insulation, there must be an air gap for the evaporation of condensate.
What heater to choose?
For internal insulation wooden houses usually used such materials:
- Warm seam. This concept includes natural and synthetic sealants. From natural, tow, flax or linen rope is used. Synthetic sealants are available in tubes. They contain sealing masses based on rubber, silicone or acrylic plastic. One of these materials fills the gaps between the logs, which were formed after the drying of the wood.
- Mineral wool. Usually use basalt wool in slabs. Glass wool is not used for internal insulation, because small fragments of fiberglass irritate the skin and respiratory tract. Basalt wool allows steam to pass through and can accumulate some moisture, so it requires mandatory waterproofing from wood. does not have combustible properties.
- Expanded polystyrene in slabs. It is used in the form of various modifications ( , ). It is preferable to insulate the walls with foam. This fine-mesh material has greater strength and better thermal insulation properties than foam. does not require vapor barrier, since it practically does not let steam through, but it needs waterproofing. In terms of its ability to retain heat, it is approximately 1.5 times superior to basalt wool.
- Penofol. It is a fine-mesh polyethylene foam coated with aluminum foil. Is issued in rolls. In this case, it is worth using a 3 mm thick material with a one-sided coating to reflect heat radiation towards the room. It is usually used for combined insulation protecting the foam from moisture.
Insulation installation technology
Internal insulation wooden walls anyway it starts with joint sealing logs or beams (warm seam).
After that dry inner surface walls are processed several times antifungal agents. Bars for crates are also treated with these preparations. After complete drying, proceed to the laying of thermal insulation.
Insulate the walls in the following sequence:
- Laying a vapor-tight membrane. The film is fixed on the beams or logs of the walls in a tense state with the help of brackets and construction stapler. Neighboring panels are overlapped to a width of 15 cm. The edges of adjacent panels are glued with construction tape. This layer does not let steam or water through. Usually, the Megaspan B membrane is used for this, laying it with the rough side to the wall, and the smooth side to the insulation.
- Lathing installation. To do this, you need bars with a cross section of 50 × 50 mm (the thickness is selected according to the thickness of the insulation layer, i.e., with a two-layer laying of mineral wool, the section of the bar is 50 × 100 mm). The bars are screwed vertically to the wall with self-tapping screws. The distance between them is 2–3 cm less than the width of the mineral wool slab.
- Placement of thermal insulation. Plates are tightly inserted between the bars of the crate mineral wool butt. If 2 layers are mounted, then the plates of the upper layer must overlap the joints of the lower one. After laying, the surface of the slabs should be on the same level with the beams of the crate.
- Fixing the vapor permeable membrane. A vapor-permeable membrane is stretched over the insulation. It is fastened with a stapler to the lathing bars with an overlap of 15 cm. This film protects the mineral wool from water drops, but freely passes steam. Usually, the Megaspan A membrane is used for this, which is laid with the fleecy side to the heat-insulating material.
- Lathing installation and finishing. The crate for the heat-insulating material is increased horizontally with bars with a section of 50 × 50 mm, screwing them with self-tapping screws. Attached to this crate finishing material (wooden panels, gypsum boards).
Installation polystyrene boards slightly different in technology:
- laying a vapor-tight membrane on the wall is not required, since this material practically does not allow steam to pass through;
- a vapor-tight membrane (Megaspan B with the smooth side to the insulation) or penofol foil towards the room is fixed on top of the expanded polystyrene (15 cm overlap film, penofol end-to-end with gluing the joints with metallized adhesive tape).
Properly installed internal thermal insulation not enough to keep the walls of a wooden house warm. Internal insulation provides reliable insulation walls from steam penetrating into the wood from the room.
Previously, this steam escaped through the pores, and after warming this path is blocked. This means that excess steam must now be removed. forced ventilation. This is best done with a system air heating. In it, forced ventilation and air heating are carried out in one cycle.
exhaust air with an excess of water vapor is constantly removed from the room. Under such conditions, the accumulation of condensate in the heater does not occur. At the same time, the steam does not penetrate the wood and does not moisten it.
You can insulate a wooden house from the inside yourself. However, this method of thermal insulation requires some knowledge and strict adherence to the rules. If you break the technology, the walls of the building quickly collapse.
The main condition for the preservation of walls with internal insulation - reliable vapor barrier. Vapors from the room must not penetrate dry wood.
Forced ventilation And air heating relieve the accumulation of moisture in the insulation and the deterioration of the microclimate in the house, even in case of severe frosts.
Master class on wall insulation with mineral wool wooden house from the inside with your own hands, look at the video:
See below for a video tutorial on using a warm seam to insulate a wooden house:
Each person dreams of a warm house, so that even in the most severe frosts it would be comfortable to be indoors. Therefore, the first question that confronts the owners of their home is how to insulate the walls from the outside on their own. Especially it concerns wooden buildings. In this article, we will give instructions according to which the thermal insulation of the walls of the frame and timber houses outside. And for more good example you can watch the video.
There is a huge variety of thermal insulation materials. Let us dwell on the choice of insulation for wooden houses, which are massively used by consumers.
Warming a wooden house will help keep the wood from destruction Stone wool in slabs. Such material is easy to cut even with the help of ordinary knife. Due to the light weight of the plates, it is easy to transport even in a passenger car, especially if you need to insulate small area. During installation stone wool they are laid in the gap between the racks of the frame, and then insulated with a vapor barrier material from the inside and waterproofing from the outside.
Attention! During transport or installation, never compress or tamp the mats.
Ecowool. This is an environmentally friendly material for insulation, based on cellulose fibers. Produced in a package, in a slightly compressed form. There are two ways to insulate this material:
- dry. To do this, the packaging with glass wool is opened, the material is kneaded and rammed into the walls. The disadvantage of this method is that over time the fibers can shrink, and this will lead to heat loss. However, some manufacturers give a guarantee that this material will not settle for 10-20 years.
- wet. Ecowool is sprayed onto the walls and clings to the building frame, so that the material does not settle.
Insulation of a wooden house from the outside Styrofoam. One of the most budgetary types of insulation. This material does not absorb moisture, so it is not necessary to cover it with a moisture-proof membrane. However, when working with foam, you need to show maximum accuracy, because it can crumble and break.
Attention! As a heater, you need to purchase non-pressed foam sheets.
polyurethane foam. It is sold in the form of two-component substances that begin to foam when applied to walls when exposed to air. In operation, such material is similar to mounting foam. They fill the voids in the wall, and cut off the excess. The result is a monolithic layer of insulation, which completely eliminates heat loss. Polyurethane foam has water-repellent properties.
Insulation of a house from a bar with polyurethane foam Natural heaters. These include slabs of sawdust or a mixture of clay and straw. Such materials are environmentally friendly, inexpensive, but their main disadvantage is the complexity of manufacturing. Linen fiber is also a natural insulation. It has antiseptic properties, preventing the formation of fungus and mold. It is easy to cut, mount, it does not cause allergies and is moisture resistant.
What is the best way to insulate walls?
Pledge quality repair- Well thought out work plan. Therefore, it is worth considering in advance how you will insulate the walls: from the inside or outside. Internal insulation is rarely used, because. because of it, the size of the rooms is significantly reduced. In addition, experts do not recommend insulating wooden houses in this way, because. moisture will penetrate into the wood, from the side of the street. Because of this, mold and fungus may appear inside the structure, and the tree itself will begin to rot. In addition, it is necessary to buy material that, in its properties, will match the tree. Linen fiber, soft fiberboard, basalt and fiberglass materials are suitable for this.
House insulation with mineral wool With the external method of thermal insulation, a uniform layer of insulator is formed for the free release of vapors. The insulation is less dense than wood, because of this, steam escapes through the ventilation gap. External method of thermal insulation - perfect option for those who want to insulate old houses made of timber, which have lost their “presentation” over time, after sheathing they will look like new. However, if the walls are not properly insulated, the tree will begin to deteriorate, and under the layer exterior finish, you will not be able to control the condition of the wood.
Insulation of the walls of a frame house with mineral wool
thermal insulation frame house starts with waterproofing. To do this, you can use glassine - a cheap but effective material. It is cut into strips and fastened with a stapler to the frame of the house, in increments of no more than 12 cm. Sheets of glassine are glued with an overlap of up to 10 cm to protect the insulation from condensation.
Advice! If the frame of the house will be sheathed with siding, then a distance of 30-50 mm should remain between it and the insulated facade so that moisture does not linger in the frame.
Then we lay a layer of insulation. Mineral wool great option for wall insulation. It does not cause allergic reactions, has low flammability and high thermal conductivity, such plates are easily cut with a construction knife. The laying process is simple, first we measure the distances between the racks and add 5 cm on each side for allowances. Cut out the sheets right size and lay them on the waterproofing. We close the joints between the frame and the insulation with a strip of mineral wool 3-4 cm wide.
Mineral wool We lay a layer of vapor barrier on top, for this we use foam phenol. It must be shot to the frame of the building using a construction stapler. Penophenol is laid in a horizontal direction, leaving 5 cm joints with the foil part outward. After that, we sheathe the walls of the house edged boards or siding.
Insulation of the walls of the frame house with foam plastic
In order to fix the foam on the wall, first we install vertical canopies from the cord. Then glue is applied to the foam sheets, along the edges and at five points inside, and fixed on the wall. Thus, the entire insulation is laid. Next you need to close the gaps mounting foam. For additional strength, we fix the sheets with plastic dowels.
Attention! Styrofoam does not absorb moisture, so additional insulation is not needed in this case.
Outside, the walls must be plastered, and before that, a reinforced mesh must be mounted. Putty will help protect the structure from the influence of external factors, but it should be applied in two layers. After the surface has dried, a top coat can be applied. decorative plaster.
Insulation of the walls of the frame house with foam plastic Insulation of the walls of the house from a bar
External insulation of houses from a bar needs to be done board materials, they are more rigid and do not shrink over time. If you prefer basalt or fiberglass insulation, then you need to choose the right thickness. If the house is made of 15 cm timber, then the thickness of the heat insulator is 10 cm, and if the timber is 20 cm, then you can take a thinner material - 5 cm.
To begin with, the surface of the house is coated with waterproof mastic. Then a vertical wooden frame is installed, which must be smeared with an antiseptic to prevent decay. Then basalt wool is attached to it with the help of self-tapping screws or dowels-umbrellas, for 1 sq.m of insulation - 4-6 fasteners. A diffusion membrane is laid on top as a waterproofing agent. Above wooden frame we nail the slats, 5 cm thick, which will create a ventilation gap to remove moisture. Then we nail the profiles to the rails and install the siding, starting from the bottom, checking the horizontal laying with a level.
Scheme: home insulation Thus, the choice of insulation depends on your personal preferences. And to decide whether to do internal or external thermal insulation depends on how it will be done. finishing external walls. Well, if you want even the most severe frosts not to bring you inconvenience, you can insulate the walls both inside and outside.
Warming the house with mineral wool: video
An important stage in the construction modern houses is their thermal insulation. The main goals of insulation are to create comfortable temperature indoors and more economical use of energy resources used for heating.
Buildings made of wood and buildings made of stone also need thermal insulation.
According to building codes, thermal insulation should be carried out from the outside. The reason is that the dew point is located on the outside of the room in the insulating material or in the front layer of the supporting structures. With this method of thermal insulation in rooms, condensation will not form on the walls.
But this option is not the only one. Thermal insulation is carried out not only from the outside, but also from the inside. In some situations, internal insulation is the only correct option. For example, if a homeowner wants to maintain the external presentability that distinguishes wooden buildings, or the architectural appearance of the house has historical value.
We offer you to learn how to do the insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside with your own hands. different types thermal insulation materials.
Causes of heat loss in a wooden house
As a rule, wooden houses are very comfortable. In such buildings it is cool in the warm season and warm in the winter.
The decrease in temperature inside a wooden house is caused by two main factors:
- improper vapor barrier;
- cracks that appeared in the old building due to the drying out of the tree over time.
Is it possible to insulate a wooden house from the inside? Of course, and if the house is old - even necessary! In order to perform thermal insulation from the inside, it is necessary to choose the right materials and follow the technology provided for such a task.
Insulation works for both new and old wooden houses are carried out in stages.
How and how to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside with your own hands? Consider the stages of internal wall insulation and select an environmentally friendly insulation for internal thermal insulation.
Preparation
All actions related to the construction and improvement of residential buildings must be preceded by calculations - this rule also applies to the insulation of a wooden building.
Calculations make it possible to find out the degree of effectiveness of thermal insulation and find out whether, in principle, it is possible to produce insulation from the inside.
Insulating material always fulfills its purpose, but the location of the dew point plays decisive role. Under no circumstances should it be placed on the inside of load-bearing structures, especially in insulation material, and the task of calculations is to demonstrate this.
When placing the dew point from the inside, the room will be quite comfortable temperature regime, but in winter it is always damp, leading to wetting of heat-insulating materials, wood rotting, and mold formation.
Provided that the dew point does not appear in the interior of the room, even in winter, thermal insulation can be performed from the inside.
But at the same time, the interior space of the living quarters will inevitably have to be sacrificed.
Choosing materials
A number of requirements are imposed on the materials used for internal thermal insulation of wooden houses:
- low heat conductivity;
- resistance to fire;
- strength;
- environmental Safety.
Thermal insulation methods are selected based on the materials used for this purpose.
How to insulate the house from the inside? Currently, several types of insulation for the walls of the house are produced:
Modern heaters have a large number of advantages: lightness, flexibility, excellent thermal insulation parameters.
We close up the joints
Having decided to take up the insulation of a wooden house with your own hands, you need to take into account one important point. The structure of wood shrinks, this process takes several months. In addition to shrinkage, when brought into operation heating system in the premises, the tree begins to dry at a high speed. This is reflected in the configuration of logs and timber.
Initially densely spaced wooden elements at the docking points they can form large gaps that release heat into the street.
For this reason, the first step in insulating a wooden home should be grouting.
For this, sealants and other materials are used. It is convenient to seal the cracks with a wide chisel.
If the gaps are large, rolled tape tow is used.
At this stage, the main thing is to stop the exit warm air through the cracks.
Important! Do not forget about the safety of electrical wiring when sealing gaps, especially if it is located on the surface: in this case, be sure to separate it and isolate it from the wall.Protection of wood from fire and biological factors
Part of the load-bearing structures located from the inside, on long time will be covered with an insulating layer. With this in mind, wood should be treated with agents that protect it from fire and mold. You can’t save on processing with such compounds, and you need to choose high-quality products in order to provide good protection.
When processing load-bearing structures with means that have a fire and bioprotective effect, it must be taken into account that they also need to be processed. wooden fences, since they will also be located in the insulation.
Ventilation
For what reason did the owners of private houses not think much about the ventilation of buildings before? The thing is that earlier ventilation was carried out in a natural way - through loosely spaced windows and cavities in the walls. This is typical for old log houses even now.
The materials used for the construction of modern buildings make it possible to avoid gaps and crevices through which air flows can circulate. But this does not mean at all that there should be no air movement in the rooms at all. Ventilation systems are being designed in modern buildings. Such systems remove recycled air from rooms and provide an influx of fresh air.
Properly executed internal insulation necessarily provides for ventilation. Only in this case the microclimate in the house will be optimal.
The insulation itself, which has a porous type structure, for example, the same mineral wool, also needs ventilation. For this reason, between the supporting structure and heat-insulating material there must be a small distance for unhindered air circulation and the removal of excess moisture. In this case, the level of humidity in the entire room will be uniform.
It is not difficult to make such a gap. A wooden rail about 25 mm in size is attached to the supporting structures at an equal distance, and a vapor barrier film is attached on top of it. Thus, a small distance for air movement is formed between the wall and the heat-insulating material, which protects the internal structures and the heat-insulating material from moisture.
On a note! If the walls of the building are made of a log having a cylindrical configuration, then the ventilation gaps are formed naturally. In the event that glued laminated timber was used to build a house, it is recommended to take care of the design of the ventilation gap.Vapor barrier layer
The use for insulation of such heat-insulating materials as glass wool, mineral wool, expanded polystyrene (non-pressed variety) without fail provides for a vapor barrier device.
It is mounted as follows: a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the crate for ventilation. A stapler is used for fastening.
Important point! When installing the vapor barrier membrane, be sure to stretch the film tightly so that a ventilation gap is formed between the supporting structure and it.The connection of two sheets of vapor barrier film is overlapped by at least 10 cm and fastened with adhesive tape.
If an extruded variety of polystyrene foam is used as a heat-insulating material, then there is no need for a vapor barrier layer. Extruded polystyrene foam has waterproofing properties that prevent the penetration of moisture.
Fencing installation
In all options for thermal insulation of internal load-bearing structures of log or log house, with the exception of the use of isoplat, the installation of a fence is necessary. Usually, a bar with a square section (50 mm) is used for its design. The distance of the wooden block depends on the width of the insulation material.
When using mineral wool, the step between the location of the bars should be 10 mm less than the width of the heat insulator in order to achieve maximum fit.
When using extruded polystyrene foam, the step is made in accordance with the width of the sheets of material.
Important! Before installing, be sure to process all wooden blocks composition with fire and bioprotective properties.The bars are fastened with screws directly to the wooden supporting structures. If there is a crate to form a ventilation gap, the bars are attached to the installed rails. Fasteners are recommended to be inserted into pre-made small holes (a thin drill is used for this) so that the tree does not crack.
In some cases, the fence is made of plasterboard profiles attached to the supporting structures on direct suspensions. This is done only if the lining is made of drywall.
Wooden bars are preferable, as they have a lower heat conductivity compared to metal products.
In the process of thermal insulation of the ceiling, the fence is designed according to a similar principle. When insulating the floor, wooden logs to which it is attached top coat serve as a barrier.
Installing a heat insulator
Insulating material is laid in the cavity between the enclosing elements. If the heat insulator is in the form of sheets, then wall mounting should start from the bottom, and when using roll material- from above, moving down.
Sheets of mineral wool are located at a distance, due to which their reliable fastening is achieved. But this material, just like polystyrene, needs additional fasteners with nails (one for each sheet).
The heat insulator in rolls is fixed at the top of the wall with one screw, then the material is unfolded and attached with nails at a distance of one meter.
First, solid sheets are mounted, and the remaining areas where trimming is necessary are filled with insulating material at the very end.
If the roof is sloping, the ceiling heat insulator unfolds from the bottom in the direction from the bottom up and is fixed with nails or with a cord. Small nails are nailed onto adjacent bars at a distance of 15 cm, and after the heat-insulating material is laid, a cord is pulled between the beams in a zigzag pattern, which will ensure reliable fastening of the insulation.
When insulating with extruded polystyrene foam, all existing gaps in the seams are sealed construction foam. The application of foam requires pre-moistening of the surfaces. Dried excess foam is cut off with a knife.
Video about wall insulation from the inside
The video tutorial below shows how to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside:
How to choose a heating method
This issue must be resolved in the first place - a method of insulation. To do effective insulation housing, you should understand the process itself step by step and its results, after which you should already make a decision. In the old days, in order to make the house warm, they didn’t bother much, and there were no opportunities commensurate with the current ones - therefore, they simply increased the thickness of the walls. Nowadays, modern heat-insulating materials, which have appeared in a huge variety on the market, have become available to everyone, so there is no need to increase the thickness of the walls. But it is necessary to study the pros and cons of new materials and technologies.
Of those who are desperate for such a step as thermal insulation from the inside, few people seriously imagine the difficulties of such an option.
Light in weight and installation, materials with high frost resistance and low thermal conductivity are already being used with might and main not only in the construction of new structures, but also in the reconstruction of existing ones. External insulation of the building with the help of modern technological materials allows not only to minimize heat loss, but also to protect the building from exposure to ultraviolet radiation, precipitation and temperature changes "overboard", which means it will save money on heating and significantly extend the service life. Of course, this is subject to the quality of the work.
Problems such as cold bridging, wall wetting, and fungal infections can be the result of technology failure. As a result, the effect of all the work carried out will inevitably decrease, as well as the service life of both heat-insulating materials and the building as a whole will decrease, which entails new costs.
How heat loss occurs in a wooden house
The walls of a wooden house have natural gaps and crevices that need to be sealed.
The process has a certain algorithm. In general, the tree itself is an excellent heat-insulating material. The walls are made of wood because of it natural structure freely "breathe", perfectly storing heat and creating the most favorable microclimate for people in the home. And yet, heat escapes - through junctions, interventional cracks, as well as through corners, cuts, doors and windows. In addition, over time, materials shrink naturally under the wagging of various, incl. weather factors. Additional gaps and cracks are formed. So the natural mobility of a tree, being its advantage, turns into a disadvantage when it comes to tightness. So there is a need for thermal insulation of all fistulas that have arisen.
If we still warm from the inside
Despite the obvious fact that it is technically easier for us to insulate a room from the inside, this option not received wide distribution. There are several well-reasoned reasons for this. And the reduction of the area is not the worst thing here.
What are the points to consider
The walls insulated inside do not really warm up, and temperature drops lead to a situation where, due to the effect of a temperature difference, the dew point moves into the heat-insulating layers, i.e. into the insulation, as a result of which the room becomes damp and sometimes water vapor condensate even settles on the walls, which can provoke a fungus that is detrimental to a wooden house, mold will appear. The vapor barrier device with the help of a film helps to partially save the situation, but in this case, so that you don’t get the feeling that you live in plastic bag, you need to take care of effective forced ventilation in room.
You can avoid undesirable consequences if you significantly increase the thickness of the insulation, which usually causes resistance from the owners of the house, because the living area is noticeably reduced due to this.
Scheme of internal insulation
Warming the house from the inside requires a certain sequence of steps. On the diagram:
1. Vapor barrier system;
2. Thermal insulation;
3. Waterproofing;
4. Lining with clapboard.
Where to begin
The first duty before insulating a wooden house, whether external or internal, is to determine what kind of wood the structure is made of. different wood has different characteristics of thermal insulation, from which the cost of insulation can be different. It is also important to find and eliminate obvious flaws such as cracks, cracks in logs, defects in insulation stuffing.
After identifying the shortcomings and determining the range of work, they begin to insulate the walls. If there is not enough external insulation, a combined option is often chosen.
From the inside, the walls are insulated, as a rule, in warm season- in the spring and summer. A freshly built house is insulated after its final shrinkage, i.e. one year after completion of construction. Special attention should be given window structures and doors - through them a lot of heat leaves the room.
Material Requirements
Thermal performance and more
They insulate a wooden house from the inside, as a rule, now with the help of modern synthetic insulation. The main requirements for them are simple: fire resistance and high thermal insulation qualities.
Ecowool
One of the most popular materials is last years the so-called ecowool. The material is sprayed with an integral heat-insulating layer, which, tightly adjoining the logs, timber, perfectly fills all existing voids and cracks, preventing possible blowing through of the walls. Having warmed with ecowool, you can completely do without additional caulking of a log house.
The structure of ecowool is such that internal moisture from the room can relatively unhindered between the fibers, without deteriorating thermal insulation properties systems. At the same time, the interfiber spaces remain dry and excess water vapor does not condense on the surface of the walls. The fact that moisture does not accumulate in ecowool, plus mineral antiseptics in its composition, exclude mold and fungal infection on the walls of the room. Ecowool is successfully used for insulation both outside and inside. Its main trump card is that the house retains the ability to "breathe" freely.
Ecowool can be applied professionally with special tools, but you can also do it manually. Look at this video topic:
Basalt wool, glass wool
The use of other types of mineral wool products, such as basalt wool or glass wool, it would seem, is also designed to solve the same thermal insulation problems, which they successfully cope with. The thermal insulation performance of these materials is also not bad, but using them in internal insulation can be more difficult to deal with such a problem as moisture getting inside the insulation, and this significantly worsens the thermal insulation qualities of the material. In this case, you can not do without a vapor barrier film as a water seal to ensure internal ventilation in order to eliminate excessive moisture.
Styrofoam
Insulation with foam (polystyrene foam) plates is also common. The undoubted advantages of extruded polystyrene foam are its elasticity and lightness. The good heat and sound insulation and sound insulation qualities of expanded polystyrene allow the use of fairly thin plates, i.e. the process does not affect the usable area of \u200b\u200bthe room. And what is important, polystyrene foam insulation technologies are constantly improving, improving its characteristics.
Intra-wall insulation
Wooden walls are sometimes insulated using the so-called intra-wall insulation. This requires special technology. For insulation inside the wall, it is necessary to use insulation that is resistant to deformation. These are lnovatin, linen and hemp tow. Naturally, this method is only possible for initial stage construction. Insulation is laid in the intra-wall spaces, i.e. between two walls. The most acceptable method of insulation is recognized as "warm" plaster, which has good heat-insulating qualities. How the work is done is described below.
The surface is prepared first. If there are remains of plaster on the surface of the walls, it must be removed. Attached to the walls special frame armature is the base for the new layer. A metal mesh 5 × 5 cm is attached to this frame. The actual plastering of the walls is carried out in 3 stages:
- Application on walls by spraying mortar to fill gaps and voids.
- Then the primer is applied, with its help the surface of the walls is leveled. This layer of plaster is thicker than the previous one.
- Finishing layer - covering, when a fine finish is performed with fine, clean, sifted sand.
Everything about wall insulation from the inside of a wooden house: what material is better to use, the need for internal insulation, preparation and lathing of walls, how to properly insulate with mineral wool inside.
According to the masters, the external insulation of a wooden house is much more preferable than the internal one. This is related to the concept of dew point.
The formation of condensate on the walls inside the building under the insulation will go deep into them, while on the outside it will not go further than the hydro - or thermal insulation and will not reach the wood.
Wall insulation from the inside of a wooden house is possible only if other options are not acceptable for any reason.
The need for internal insulation
Before deciding on such interior finishes, you should consider what they can be fraught with:
- Violation of the natural "breathing" of the walls, which will have to be restored by creating ventilation.
- Changing the microclimate in the rooms due to high humidity.
- Reducing the area of each room.
If such good reasons are not a reason to change your mind, then you should look for the positive aspects of internal insulation and focus on them:
- The ability to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside with your own hands at any time of the year, devoting as much time to this as possible.
- A beautiful view of the facade, especially if it is made of logs, can be preserved in its original form.
- Such work requires easier installation, which even a beginner can do.
- The internal insulation of the walls of a wooden house is several times cheaper than the external one.
Modern materials and technology allow the construction and Finishing work of any complexity and quite at a decent price. Before deciding on any action, you should be well acquainted with what materials the modern market offers and answer the question, what is the best way to insulate the walls of a wooden house inside.
Of course, the choice of material directly depends on the qualities that the building will require from it. If this frame house, then these will be some properties, and for a log house of thick logs - others.
Today, manufacturers of heaters offer the following types of materials:
All of the listed materials have a place to be in the modern construction market, but the choice is up to the consumer, to which of them he entrusts the safety and warmth of his home.
Wall preparation and lathing
As always, the insulation of walls in a wooden house from the inside (the video will tell about this) begins with preparing the walls for work:
- Even the most best wood may form gaps at the joints during shrinkage. They should be sealed with sealant or in another way.
- It is imperative that as a preventive measure it is necessary to carry out bio- and fire protection of the walls. Since thermal insulation is mounted for years, this will save it under any unforeseen circumstances.
To protect the house from decay, without fail, when laying thermal insulation, you need to make an air gap between it and the wall. This does not apply to walls made of logs.
- Caulking of walls is necessary if they are made of timber. Jute is well suited for this, as the cheapest and proven by many generations of builders material.
In no case should the preparation of the walls be ignored, as this may affect the durability of the thermal insulation and its quality.
Owners should think not only about how to insulate the walls of a wooden house inside, but also how to do it. It is imperative to make a crate. It is because of it that, first of all, the area of \u200b\u200bthe room inside decreases, but it also gives the entire structure a shape and the necessary stability.
For the crate, a square bar with a section of 50 mm is used, and the step depends on the size of the insulation. It is important to install the bars so that the material fits tightly into the formed cells, if it is mineral wool, or they are exactly sized for expanded polystyrene boards.
Prior to installation, the bars must be treated with fire-fighting and antifungal agents. All structural elements are attached to the wall with screws.
After the crate is installed in each room, you can proceed directly to solving the issue of how to insulate the walls inside a wooden house.
Wall insulation from the inside of a wooden house
mineral wool
As a rule, mineral wool in a roll or in the form of a “mat” is used to insulate walls from the inside. To cope with the first, you will need work in 4 hands, while the second can be handled on your own.
Laying is carried out from the floor to the ceiling, observing a tight fit so that the seams are not visible. If there are any gaps, then they need to be repaired, and then proceed with laying the next layer of the “pie” - the vapor barrier layer. It is necessary rather to protect the mineral wool from the effects of the external environment of the room than the walls.
The vapor barrier should be overlapped with a stapler so that there are no seams, and if there are any, then they must immediately be covered with adhesive tape.
After the work done, it is necessary to mount another crate, but opposite to the first. It is on it that the finish coating will be attached.
Styrofoam
This material can also be attached to the crate, but there is an easier way that does not take up much living space. The prepared and processed wall must be smeared with a layer of glue and put foam sheets on it in dense rows.
After the adhesive base is completely dry, the plates can be fixed with nails, cover the gaps and proceed with the finishing.
In conclusion, the following conclusions can be drawn:
- Internal insulation is not desirable, but is acceptable if necessary.
- There are materials suitable for these works.
- Before proceeding with the insulation, you need to properly prepare the walls.
If there is not enough knowledge on the composition of the material and the correctness of its installation, you should consult with a specialist so that after years you will not regret the wasted money. Even such a simple, at first glance, work as caulking the walls requires skills and attention, and without creating ventilation, the “life” of the building can be significantly reduced. All this should be thought about before starting the insulation of the internal walls of a wooden house.
