How to form a chrysanthemum in the form of a bush? Chrysanthemums - planting and care in open ground, forming a beautiful bush

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In many ways, the growth, development and decorativeness of this herbaceous perennial depend on its formation.

Slowing down growth

Chrysanthemum bushes begin to form from cuttings. First stage - pinching or trimming when the upper part of the rooted cutting is removed. The only difference between them is the size of the detachable top. When pinching, only the tip itself is removed; when pruning, part of the young stem grown from the axillary bud of the cutting is cut off.

These techniques delay shoot growth for some time, thereby promoting better root development. And most importantly, they lead to the removal of the so-called spring bud and stimulate the formation of side shoots. If the cutting is left without pinching, it will quickly stop growing in height and a flower bud will form on it. As a rule, in most varieties this bud is capable of producing only an inferior, deformed inflorescence, which is why it is often called a “blind bud”. The peculiarity is that the growth of the central shoot inhibits and deforms the development of lateral shoots.

After the first pinching or pruning and regrowth of side shoots, the following can be done. The more there are, the more branched the bush becomes and the more inflorescences grow on it.

To obtain huge cut flowers, after the first pinching, only one shoot should be left. In addition, you should break out all the shoots, which develop from the axils of the leaves. Although many foreign farms that grow chrysanthemums for cutting form a bush with several stems.

Increasing the number of flowers

The number of pinches affects not only the height of the plant, but also the size of the inflorescences, although different varieties react differently to this procedure. But, nevertheless, if you take tall varieties, pinching can reduce the height of the plant by 15-25 cm. But flower growers want to get not just a well-formed decorative bush, but also a plant that will delight you with flowering at the end of July-August.

As a rule, 30-40 days pass between pinching and budding. Because in conditions middle zone The plant should be pinched no later than the end of May. It is enough to make one pinching when the shoot has at least 6-8 leaves. After pinching the top, 4-6 leaves are left, from the axils of which shoots begin to develop after a few days. With this simplified formation, the bush has 5-6 main, strong shoots, on each of which several lateral ones are formed. And on the shoot there are several inflorescences that open one by one. Such bushes are quite dense, well-leafed, and bloom for up to 2-2.5 months. Since during this time the axillary buds of all the leaves left on the cuttings also awaken, this contributes to the low branching of the bush. It looks like a beautiful oval.

A large number of side shoots, stepsons, buds, and then inflorescences also requires a large influx of nutrients. After the first pinching or pruning, the young plant is watered with a weak solution of organic or nitrogen-containing mineral fertilizer.

It is important to remember that these techniques disrupt the natural rhythm of plant development. Therefore, they should not coincide with transshipment or, especially, transfer.

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Remember!

1. Chrysanthemums are relatively drought-resistant.
2. Chrysanthemums are light-loving (in the shade the bushes will be less lush).
3. Chrysanthemums are cold-resistant and need shelter for the winter.
4. Chrysanthemums need proper pinching.

Landing

Chrysanthemums are planted and replanted both in spring and autumn. In spring - when the threat of night frosts passes. In autumn, no later than 2-3 weeks before the onset of stable frosts. Half a bucket of humus or compost, or vermicompost is added to each planting hole.

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When planting, seedlings are not deepened. After planting, be sure to water. The minimum planting pattern is 30×30. Otherwise, the bushes will not be lush and will be too tall. During the summer season until flowering, do not forget about fertilizing; water with complex fertilizer every two weeks.

Formation of chrysanthemums (pinching)

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are grown in one or three stems with one flower on each of them.

For large-flowered chrysanthemums, it is very important to pinch on time. As soon as the young chrysanthemum produces the 8th leaf, pinch the crown. Then the plant will produce several new shoots. Of these, 2-3 of the strongest are left, and the rest are removed. By the way, removed excess chrysanthemum cuttings can be rooted by cuttings.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are planted, removing periodically appearing side shoots, otherwise the flowers will be small.

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Pinching and pinching chrysanthemums

In order to grow larger, well-developedFlowers and inflorescences must be pinched (trimmed) and pinched. Let's look at these operations separately.

Pinching (trimming)

You have planted a rooted cutting of a large-flowered chrysanthemum. Sunny weather and proper care (watering and fertilizing) of the plant will yield results - the chrysanthemum will begin to rapidly grow upward. As soon as the plant reaches20-25 cm in length (7-10 leaves)it is necessary to do pruning or pinching - removing the upper part of the stem. The difference between pinching and trimming is only the size of the top that is separated. When pinching, only the very tip of the shoot is removed, and when pruning, the separated part of the shoot used for rooting is at least 7-10 cm. Remember that in the central and northern regions of Ukraine pinching is done, not pruning.

When pruning, we cut off the top part of the plant by 7-10 cm (3-4 leaves) if the plant has reached a height of 20 cm. If it is necessary to pinch, then simply remove the growing tip of the chrysanthemum. As a rule, pinch once:

1) plants of early varieties;

2) low-growing varieties of chrysanthemums.

We also recommend pinching large-flowered ones once.If you do not pinch this group, the primary bud will produce an inferior flower. Pinching (pruning) helps to delay plant growth, better development of the root system, the formation of side shoots and the removal of spring buds. Plucked cuttings of chrysanthemums can be rooted and later planted in the garden.

Stepsonning.

After pinching the plant, rapid growth of side shoots begins. Therefore, in order to properly form a bush, it is also necessary to pruning - removing side shoots and buds, the so-called. stepson. They consume nutrients and greatly retard the development of the main stem and bud. Usually the stepsons are removed as soon as they grow to such a size that they can be grabbed with your fingers. At the same time, keep in mind that in the upper part you must definitely leave two or three stepsons in reserve in case the main bud is damaged by pests and is therefore underdeveloped. Large-flowered chrysanthemums are periodically pruned, removing unwanted shoots, and thus only one full-fledged flower is formed on each trunk.

Most modern bush hybrids do not need to thin out the buds, but the general rule is: than fewer buds- especially large flowers. If you want to get a lush inflorescence large diameter, it is necessary to remove all side shoots and buds, leaving one main one.

Also see our other articles on chrysanthemum agricultural technology on the website http://site/

Luxurious inflorescences on autumn flower beds attract the eye and amaze with the variety of shades. Indoor chrysanthemum in a pot differs from its relatives in open ground a compact, spherical bush with a height of 20–40 cm. Breeders have developed several hybrids and varieties adapted to lack of lighting and other indoor conditions.

“Home” chrysanthemums do not require care, grow well, bloom profusely and reproduce easily. In everyday life it is customary to say “flowers,” although the family Asteraceae has a basket-like inflorescence. When purchasing, you should pay attention to the fact that there is a healthy chrysanthemum in the pot; caring for it at home will then be much simpler. A well-developed plant intended for indoors will continue to bloom on the windowsill. At favorable conditions buds can bloom almost without interruption for 2 years.

It should be noted that after self-propagation by cuttings or root suckers, new plants do not turn out to be as compact and dense as those purchased in a store.

Street chrysanthemums are sold in plastic containers. Such flowers are planted in open ground or left in a container, used for container gardening, patio decoration, and entrance to the house. After flowering, the stems are cut off, and containers with roots are sent to the basement or loggia for the winter. If an outdoor chrysanthemum is kept indoors, its leaves will turn yellow and dry out. These plants need fresh air and a certain lighting regime - the night is longer than the day.

Chrysanthemum varieties for growing in pots

Thanks to the efforts of breeders, geneticists and agrochemists, plants have been bred that can bloom profusely and for a long time in a room. In total, about 40 hybrid varieties of chrysanthemums have been created for indoor cultivation. The inflorescences may be smaller or the same size as those of open ground plants. Varieties are often grouped according to their origin from one natural species.

Chrysanthemum indica

In nature this is relatively low herbaceous plant. The leaves are serrated, green-gray in color. The inflorescence is a basket resembling a chamomile with yellow petals and the same core. It is the ancestor of small-flowered hybrids for growing on windowsills and balconies.

The Indian chrysanthemum was crossed with species that had white and pink inflorescences. Breeders using chemicals, affecting growth, received compact forms with a height of 20–25 cm. Today there is a large number of various shapes and varieties that feel good in the room are in high demand. The flower is liked and appreciated for its richness of color and long flowering, which is especially attractive in the cold season.

Popular varieties of chrysanthemums in indoor floriculture:

• "Golden Gloria" - dense bushes with a large number of large yellow inflorescences.
• “Old Gold” - plants with petals of an unusual reddish-bronze color.
• "Morifolium" is a variety with large simple, semi-double and double inflorescences 5 cm in diameter.

Chrysanthemum Chinese or mulberry

A group of varieties and hybrids, for the creation of which several species were used. Plants for indoor floriculture have compact shape, thin, highly branched stems 20–25 cm high. The leaves are rich green, 7 cm long and 4–5 cm wide. Pinpoint glands are visible on the upper side of the leaf blade. The inflorescences of Chinese chrysanthemums are simple, semi-double and double, of various sizes and colors.

Caring for chrysanthemums at home

Buy a plant in flower shop or accepted as a gift. In any case, it is necessary to create conditions in the new room so that the buds do not fall off. Planting and caring for chrysanthemums in a room differs from open ground and a greenhouse.

Lighting, temperature

Light affects flowering and bud opening. The amount of light that is provided when placing the pot on a plastic or window sill is suitable. wooden windows facing west and east. Exposure to rays at midday can cause leaf burns; in this situation, it is recommended to shade the plant. The young bush blooms when the daylight hours are 6–8 hours in October or November (depending on the region).

A comfortable temperature for indoor chrysanthemums is 18–23°C. The variety, which is more demanding in terms of maintenance conditions, reacts to the heat by dropping buds and leaves. It is advisable to spray the plant with water more often in summer to reduce the temperature. You can leave it in front of an open window; the chrysanthemum is not afraid of drafts.

Watering and fertilizing

The soil in the pot should always be moist. Chrysanthemum indoors prefers frequent irrigation, but not excessive. Stagnation of water in a pot can lead to rotting of the roots and the spread of fungal and bacterial diseases.

1. The substrate should not be allowed to dry out.
2. In autumn and winter, water once a week in the morning.
3. Watering in spring and summer is carried out 2 times a week in the evening.
4. In hot weather, spray water nearby indoor plants to reduce air temperature.
5. Use settled water for irrigation and spraying. If it is hard, then a white coating accumulates on the soil surface.
6. Avoid getting drops on the flowers.

Chrysanthemums that bloom profusely require more frequent fertilization. Conduct liquid fertilizers once a week until the end of flowering. It is advisable to use complex fertilizers with the addition of microelements. Actively growing shoots need nitrogen; during budding and flowering, more potassium and phosphorus are required. Feed the potted plant about 12 hours after watering.

Pruning and shaping the bush

The purchased plant retains its original shape for a long time. If the growth of shoots is not subsequently regulated, several long stems will appear, which reduces the decorative effect.

• Perform pinching of rapidly growing shoots. Small-flowered chrysanthemums will require 2 or 3 treatments.
• Large-flowered hybrids can be formed into a tree by shortening the main shoot and cutting off the lower branches.
• Pinching inflorescences that are beginning to fade helps increase the number of new buds.

Pruning is necessary if flowering is delayed. Selectively pinching the tops of flower stalks will ensure the flow of nutrients to the remaining buds.

Transplanting a plant

Young and old plants need to update the substrate. Transfer to a deeper and wider pot once a year - in spring or early summer. The substrate is prepared from garden soil, peat and humus (1:1:1). You can use ready-made soil for indoor flowers.

For chrysanthemums, such indicators as loose structure, lightness, moisture capacity and nutritional value of the soil (mechanical composition and fertility) are important.

After transplantation, young shoots are covered with a plastic glass, adult plants - plastic bag. At first, provide diffused lighting and do not forget about watering.

Features of care after flowering

After flowering ends, weak and diseased shoots are removed. Some gardeners recommend trimming the stems, leaving short sections above the surface of the substrate. After this, water the soil and put the pot in a cool, dry place until spring.

You can do without radical pruning at the root, leaving the chrysanthemum in its original form on the window sill in the room. Third option: to stimulate shoot growth and form a compact bush, pruning is done, but the pot is not removed. A strong chrysanthemum will sprout new shoots and bloom in the same season.

Propagation of chrysanthemums at home

Adult chrysanthemums “acquire” root suckers (babies). Young plants can be grown from these additional shoots. The root suckers are carefully separated from the mother bush and planted in small containers. It is necessary to maintain the depth of the plant at the same level. To do this, increase the height of the drainage layer or place the roots higher. Cover the seedlings with a plastic glass. In the autumn of the same year, the young plants will bloom.

Rooting stem cuttings:

1. Young shoots are cut from an adult plant.
2. Fill a transparent plastic container for cookies or cakes with well-washed sand.
3. The cuttings are planted and covered with a container lid.
4. After the roots form and new leaves appear, the young plants are transplanted into a pot.

Chrysanthemums are difficult to grow from seeds. Hybrid varieties are often sterile. Usually, when chrysanthemums are propagated from seeds, varietal characteristics are not preserved.

The main problems when growing a plant

Why do the leaves turn yellow?

Chrysanthemum leaves change color due to improper care and diseases. Yellowing may be due to lack of light, water, or hot air from the radiator. The appearance of grayish-yellow or brown spots with a yellow border is a sign of a fungal infection. If the yellowing is due to poor care, then it is easier to correct this deficiency than to treat plant diseases.

Chrysanthemum does not bloom - why?

Typical reasons for the lack of buds and flowers are lack or excess lighting. Chrysanthemum is a short-day plant. If there is artificial lighting in the room in the morning and evening, then biorhythms are disrupted. Another reason is related to the rapid growth of stems and leaves, which happens with excess fertilizing and lack of pruning.

Diseases and pests of indoor chrysanthemum

The plant is susceptible to rust powdery mildew, gray and black rot. These fungal infections are treated with fungicides for indoor plants. Chrysanthemums are harmed by aphids, black sciarid midges, soil mites, and springtails. The leaves are treated with a solution of Actellik, Fitoverm or Bazudin. For spraying, flowers are taken out to the balcony. Window sills, window frames wash with a solution of soda and soap.

After the death of pests, change upper layer soil in a pot to a depth of 2 cm. It is recommended to be careful when choosing a substrate. Typically, pathogens and plant pests are contained in soil brought from the garden.

It is very important to isolate the affected plant from the rest of the green pets in the room and to carry out pest and disease control in a timely manner. Then the chrysanthemums will remain healthy and will delight you with flowering for a long time.