Wattle: beautiful examples in landscape design. Wicker fences for flower beds: what are the advantages of wicker fences and how to make them yourself

And also, unlike the classic flower pots, stationary containers can be decorated as you please. For example, in the form of a huge basket. It is beautiful, catchy, and at the same time harmonious - after all, aesthetically, the basket combines with any plants and with any style of garden design. Many gardeners plant flowers in old baskets, but they too often look very unsightly. Therefore, in order to create a truly stylish garden accessory, you should not use an ordinary old basket, even if it is very large - it will still be small for a real flower bed, and it will not please the eye with its originality.

It’s better to “weave” a stylized basket yourself, especially since it’s not at all difficult.

What about the costs?

Virtually none, since all the materials for making a flower bed-basket will probably be found at your dacha.

MASTER CLASS

FOR WORK YOU WILL NEED:

Several wooden slats 3 cm wide old checkered oilcloth antiseptic for wood piece of plastic box for electrical wiring 2 m long clothesline scissors hacksaw lid from a garden barrel some sand garden scoop.

1.Saw wooden slats into 45 cm long pieces. In total you should have about 40 pieces. Coat all parts with wood preservative.

2. Cut the old oilcloth into ribbons 4-5 cm wide. The length of the ribbons is as long as the oilcloth allows.

3. Place the lid of a garden barrel on the ground in the selected location. Trace it along the contour with sand or rope to get an even circle.

4. Along this circular “path”, install wooden slats with small equal spaces between them. Simply cut the soil with a shovel and insert each slate deeply into it.

5. Weave the exposed slats with oilcloth ribbons like a basket. If the length of the tapes is not enough, connect them together with a regular office stapler.

6-7. Wrap the electrical wiring box with a clothesline. Bend the resulting flexible “cane” and insert it sideways into the almost finished “basket” - you will get a nice handle.

That's it, the basket is ready!

Now you can pour soil into it and plant perennials, put containers with flowering plants or create a mini-garden for herbs and herbs.

When spring comes, followed by summer, it’s time to plant flower beds, which delight the eye with delicate aromas and a riot of colors. But in order for them to look even more attractive and organically combine with others decorative elements garden plot, it is best to make wicker flower beds for flowers and other plants with your own hands, the time and financial costs of which will be minimal.

Materials for making wicker flower beds

To make a wicker flower bed, first of all, you should stock up on material. It uses twigs and tree branches, distinctive feature which is flexibility. Among them:

Willow twigs.
Hazel twigs.
Birch twigs.
Willow twigs.
Dogwood branches.
Apple tree branches.
Raspberry branches.
Vine.

All of the above shoots are distinguished by their considerable length and evenness; it is very easy to remove the bark from them, and the surface underneath is completely homogeneous. Such rods are allowed to be prepared all year round, with the exception of June and July. During these months, the young shoots of last year are just beginning to bush, and the shoots of this year are loose and grassy, since they have not yet fully matured. It is best to prepare material for weaving flower beds closer to autumn, at the end of August, when the shoots have already reached the desired condition and the movement of juices in them has slowed down. Such rods can be quickly cleared of bark and, if necessary, split.

If it is expected that the wicker basket flowerbed will be large, it is necessary to take care of a sufficient supply of shoots for work. It is unrealistic to collect the required number of them in one day, since at the first stage you will need at least 1.5-2 thousand rods. Chopped shoots and twigs should be cleared of bark immediately after collection within 2-3 hours and split before they dry. Leveling with a knife can be done a little later.

In the case when the preparation of the material for weaving could not be done immediately and the shoots have dried out or when they are harvested in the cold season, the rods are boiled in water or boiled with boiling water for 30-40 minutes and only after that they begin to clean and split. At home, it is quite acceptable to carry out such heat treatment, for example, in an iron herring can, where the material for weaving is folded.

We should not forget that the bark of the shoots contains tannins, so the ribbons that are obtained from steamed but not yet cleaned twigs will color the container in Brown color. Therefore, it is not recommended to perform such operations in a bath; in extreme cases, it is covered with a synthetic film.

Sometimes, instead of boiling, the so-called method of “reviving” the rods is used. For two to three weeks, they are placed with their thick ends in a container of water, immersed to a depth of 5-10 cm. It is necessary to change the water periodically. As soon as the first green leaves appear on the shoots, they are cleaned and split.

Pruning twigs has a beneficial effect on the growth of shrubs, the splendor of which increases significantly. If you plan to make wicker flower beds constantly, it is good to start your own “plantations” of the material, planting new cuttings on them every year. This should be done in May or October. They do this as follows:

A cutting is cut from the middle of the rod, the diameter of which is 3-4 mm, and the length reaches 25 cm.
Make a hole in the soil with a sharp stick.
Place the cutting in the ground to a depth of at least 20 cm. In this case, the thin end of the shoot with several buds should protrude 4-5 cm above the soil surface.

Finished rods must be sorted by thickness and width, moistened, rolled into skeins and stored only in a dry place. Before work, they are slightly moistened with a shower or simply wiped with a damp sponge, after which the material is ready for further use.

Types of wicker flower beds

To create wicker flower beds with your own hands, photos of which are presented in the article, you should decide on their variety. There are two types of such products:

Ground wicker flower bed. This is the most common option. If the area of the flower garden is large enough, it is made in the form of a wicker fence in rustic style, which protects plants from accidental stepping on them, and also plays a decorative role. Often there are above-ground flower beds in the form of baskets, which are more compact in size. If a wicker border fence is often square or rectangular, then the basket has a round shape and the presence of a handle, which makes it possible, if necessary, to move it from place to place. The height of the basket varies widely: the smaller the diameter of such a flower bed, the higher its walls will be. The handle is made from several thin and long branches placed between the bars of the basket. The bottom of the flowerbed is covered with film, soil and drainage are poured into it. Flowers often grow much better in flowerbed baskets, since the likelihood of weeds germinating in them is negligible, and the soil warms up well.

Hanging wicker flower bed. Its advantage is its ease of placement: a hanging flowerbed looks good on the veranda, on the wall of the house, and even on tree branches. This product attracts with its variety of shapes: depending on personal preferences, it can be woven in the shape of a basket, cone, ball, or rectangular. However, it is imperative to take care of the reliability and strength of the fastening for the hanging flower bed. In addition, it is good if it rotates 360 degrees. This will allow you to rotate the plant in the flowerbed in such a way as to protect it from the constantly changing direction of the sun's rays. To prevent moisture from evaporating from the hanging flower bed of the basket, its walls are covered with moss, which retains moisture, and the inside of such a pot is lined with film.

Methods for making wicker flower beds

Making wicker flower beds at your dacha with your own hands is not at all difficult. This will require a minimum of time and effort. To make a flowerbed in the form of a wicker fence for a flower garden, you need to take pruning shears or a sharp knife, wooden mallet, flexible shoots, the diameter of which is 1-1.5 cm, pointed pegs from branches at least 2-3 cm thick. Now we actually begin the process:

We choose the place where the future flowerbed will be located. After this, we remove the top soil layer along with the weeds and grass growing on it and determine the contours of the flower bed.
We calculate the required number of pegs, based on the fact that they will need to be driven into the ground at a distance of 25-30 cm.

To make the flower bed more durable, near the corner peg, at a distance of no more than 5 cm, we drive in one more peg on both sides. This allows you to connect the rods into an improvised lock. To do this, without cutting, we pass them through three corner sticks. Then the rods will not fall out, even if you accidentally hit the flowerbed.
Calculate the length of the vertical stakes. We decide on the height of the fence and take pegs twice as long: the rest will be underground.
We sharpen the stakes and treat them with an antiseptic to reduce the rate of rotting in the ground. In some cases, metal supports are used, but this does not look very nice.
We hammer the pegs into the ground using a mallet at the same distance from each other. The closer they are, the greater the strength of the flowerbed.
We take flexible and long rods with a length of at least 50 cm. It is advisable that one rod is enough to weave 3-4 spans. To increase elasticity, the shoots should be soaked in water a day before.
We remove the bark from the rods and treat them with a special compound to stop the decomposition process.
We begin to weave the rods around the stakes in a zigzag. In this case, the tapes end up either behind or in front of the pegs. Weaving begins from the ground and thicker shoots are used first. When the rod ends, take the next one. We cut the place where they connect at an angle of 45 degrees and further strengthen it with wire or twine.
To ensure that the bottom row of rods does not fall to the ground, and the top row does not lag behind the fence, they are securely tied to the vertical shoots with wire.
We weave from the thick end of the branch to the thinner one. When one row ends, we start the next one on the other side, making sure that the thin and thick ends of the shoots are evenly distributed. In this case, the thickness of the weaving will be the same throughout the flowerbed.
If the end of the rod coincides with the peg on which the shoot from the previous row ended, shorten this rod or take a longer one.
Lay out the bottom and sides of the flowerbed plastic film. This will prevent it from rotting and soil spillage.
Making drainage for drainage excess moisture, harmful to the roots, from pieces of crushed stone, brick and sand, fill the soil and plant flowers.

Very interesting option flower beds - a wicker basket equipped with a canopy-support for climbing plants. To make it you will need scissors, cardboard, a shovel, rods up to 1.5-2 m long. Then we proceed directly to the process:

We soak the rods and sort them by length and thickness.
We cut out a round cardboard template, the diameter of which coincides with the diameter of the bottom of the future flower bed.
We cut off a small part of the circle to get a back support wall.
Remove with a shovel upper layer soil (removal depth is about 30 cm) along the contour of the template and insert low thick shoots into the resulting trench at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other.
We insert 4 long branches along the perimeter of the cut edge of the template and 6 long shoots along the rest of its outline.
Let's start weaving pegs at ground level. The first tape usually consists of two to four rods. We begin to weave the next circle, moving one peg, but weaving each row to the end. We trim the ends of the shoots with pruning shears or weave them into the edges.
We collect the ends of the long rods installed along the border of the beveled edge of the template, and weave their opposite ends diagonally until the roof of the wicker basket is at the required height. For strength, the tapes are fastened with wire or rope.
We take the remaining six long rods. We cross two of them and weave them into an improvised basket roof, and then weave the remaining four shoots. Thus, a wicker lattice is obtained.
Fill the flowerbed with soil and plant the plants.

To create another type of wicker flower bed in winter, in addition to twigs from the willow, you will need a barrel and sleight of hand:

For vertical racks We take thick shoots, for weaving - thinner rods and clear them of bark.
We fill the barrel tightly with snow and install vertical “pillars” of twigs in it. Whether their number is even or odd does not matter, since weaving is done with a “string” - two twigs that intertwine with each other.
We continue to weave in a circle until the basket reaches the desired height, after which we cut the vertical posts.
Then we make a handle: we twist several thin long rods with a rope and tie them to the sides of the wicker flowerbed.
We remove the basket from the barrel and use it for its intended purpose.

Wicker flowerbed as a decorative element

A wicker flowerbed will look harmonious on any site, regardless of its size and the presence of other decorative elements. Since it is executed from natural materials, it goes well with the now fashionable wicker furniture or a large fence around the house, also made of wicker.

With such fences around the flower beds local area will look more well-groomed because they prevent grass and plants from growing. In addition, wicker fences are great for dividing an area into functional areas: for the garden, for the vegetable garden, for relaxation. They are environmentally friendly, protect flower beds from damage and at the same time allow them to withstand personal plot in the same style.

In the rustic Provence style, you can make your own wicker fence for a flower bed. The material for creating the fence will be ordinary wattle fence. For a dacha, this is a harmonious fence that will emphasize the naturalness and naturalness of the landscape of the site.

What can be protected with a fence at the dacha

On summer cottage You can’t get by with just a border, because you want no one to spoil or trample the flower beds, and there are a lot of people who like to tinker, from chickens, kittens to dogs. Therefore, it is necessary to keep an eye on the picturesque plants, as they say. But don’t worry, you don’t have to sit from morning to night looking after your flower beds, there is a way out of this situation that will not only protect against the invasion of pets in the flower beds, but will also create a beautiful environment in the yard, so to speak, it will landscape the garden area near the house .

Such a wicker fence can cover access to a flower bed, bed, tree, bush or wall where they climb ornamental plants, and also to isolate the recreation area, where there is rattan furniture, with benches, a barbecue, and a barbecue from the common yard.

What material to choose for a fence with your own hands

The material for the fence can be brick, board, hemp, stone, bottles, wire, sticks, twine, but in our case we will prepare a wattle fence from grape vines, birch branches, apple trees, etc. Vertical pegs can be made from branches 2-6 cm thick, the size depends on what kind of fence you want. Prepare the number of pegs depending on the size of the flowerbed area. But remember there should be 15-25 cm between the pegs. This way the branches and vines will hold on better. Start driving pegs of approximately equal length into pre-marked marks on the ground. Yes, before driving in the pegs, you need to sharpen one end with a knife. It is advisable to treat some of the branches that will be in the ground with an antiseptic and paint them. This way the fence will last longer and will not rot from watering the beds and flower beds.

How to make a vine fence with your own hands

Drive the stakes deeper, so the frame for the future fence will be stronger. For weaving, take flexible twigs with a diameter of 1 cm; shoots of weeping willow and birch trees, grapevines, and raspberry branches are perfect. These berry crops will still need to be thinned out in the fall, so there will be virtually no waste after this procedure, everything will be used for improvement suburban area. Harvest the vine better in spring or in the fall, during the period when there are no leaves on them.

Before weaving the fence, soak the rods in water to make them flexible and soft. Any basin or bathtub is suitable for this. You can soak them in boiling water, they will become obedient and easy to bend.

The stakes should be firmly in the ground, level their height with a hammer, you can leave long poles after two or three pegs, on which you can hang signs, pots or decorative vases, whatever your heart desires, the main thing is that this idea suits the style and color combination and the interior of the site.
Now you can braid the pegs with twigs, make sure that the ends of the vine come out into inner part fencing. Each wedge must be pressed and compacted to the previous level. Too thin vines can be taken two at a time and woven together at once. Do not start the second and subsequent layers until you have completed the entire circle. Weave all the way until the pegs close.

Weaving rules:

Do not start weaving the rod from the corner pegs. It is best to weave from the middle, so that the branch ends on the other side of the perimeter and goes around the corner. This way the corners will look prettier and the structure will be more stable.
It is necessary to combine the thick end of the thin rod with the end of the thick next one, so the knitting will look even.
It is necessary that the end of the wicker does not end on the peg where the end of the previous wattle fence is present. This situation can be corrected by preparing a long vine or shortening its length.
You can secure the wedges with rope or wire so that they hold together more tightly.
If you reduce the distance between the pegs, you will get a dense fence.
After treatment with an antiseptic, the wicker fence can be coated with wood varnish.
Summarize the work on creating a wattle fence with your own hands by removing protruding branches.

A flowerbed fence is a necessity for a flowerbed in which tall or medium-sized plants are planted. Such a fence supports the flowers and prevents the bushes from falling apart.

Flower beds with low-growing plants have their own fences - borders that clearly delimit the flower area and do not allow the plants to “spread”.

Many fences for flower beds and flower beds perform mainly functional tasks. Visually, they are restrained, strict and simple, giving way to flowers as the main decor of the flowerbed. But there are flower fences and fences that can turn the simplest flower bed with simple plants into a masterpiece of landscape art.

Store-bought flower bed fences are good and easy to install, but homemade flower fencing is also beneficial. They:

cheap, often do not require any investments at all, since they are collected from materials that are available;
unique, you can make a fence, thanks to which the flowerbed in the landscape of your garden will look amazing.

Fence for flower beds made of concrete slabs

Interesting fences from concrete tiles easy to do. Take a closer look: each such tile has a metal pin with which it is fixed in the ground.

We find square or rectangular molds for making tiles - these can be various plastic containers or even cut lengthwise carton boxes from under the milk.
On one side, each mold will have to be cut to insert the pins (a metal rod can be used).
Lubricate the inside of the mold with some kind of oil (drying oil or car polish works great).
Pour the solution into the molds and wait a day for the solution to set.
We take out the products along with the pins attached to them.
We send it to dry in partial shade.
If you want white tiles, you can use Portland cement. In principle, tiles can be painted in any color with facade paint.

How to make a wicker fence for a flower bed

For a wicker fence, the main thing is to prepare suitable rods. The material can be cut in the spring, choosing the most flexible tree branches. If the fence is small, weaving can be made from branches fruit trees and shrubs - apple trees, plums, pears, grapes, currants, etc. Process: we stick stakes around the flower bed and braid them with twigs (through one peg, staggered in rows).

Stylish fence for a flower bed made of reinforcing rods

We stick reinforcing rods or sections of thin metal pipe into the ground.
We secure the crossbar with wire along the top of the pins (as can be seen in the picture). You can fasten the rods in another way, tying the place of contact with wire crosswise.
It is advisable to surround such a fence with stones, paving stones, etc.

Brick fence for flower beds

You will need a little brick and mortar, but the fence will be solid and will last for a long time.

First about the solution: mix 1 part cement with 3 parts sand, pour water in parts, stirring all the time. When the consistency of the mass becomes like a thick cream, the solution is ready.

We mark the place for the flower bed.
We tear off a groove of small depth (about 30 cm).
We fill the ditch with sand and crushed stone.
Fill with solution.
The result was a light foundation. You can not fill the foundation, but simply pour crushed stone (drainage) and start laying the brick walls of the fence in the recess.
2-3 rows of bricks above the ground, and the fence is ready.

Exactly the same fence can be made from any building blocks.

More fences for flower beds made of brick and stone

Wooden fences for flower beds

Fences for flower beds made from bottles and tires

A simple, budget-friendly solution for fencing a low flower bed.

Living fences for flower beds

Purchased fences for flower beds - just install

Wicker flower beds look very nice and original, allowing you to create a rustic-style design on your site.

Flower growers in Lately They are increasingly resorting to such a decorative element in order to... Such a flower bed can become a decoration for a garden or add beauty to a lawn. It’s quite simple to do and anyone can do it; all you need is desire and a little patience.

The wattle fence for a flower bed looks beautiful and original, and most importantly, it is very easy to make with your own hands from available tools.

A low wattle fence can be used in many different ways and in a variety of shapes. In this case, it will not only decorate it, but will also protect the flowers growing along the path from accidental damage. Baskets woven from twigs, adapted for flower beds, to which you can additionally make a canopy-support for climbing plants, will look unusually beautiful.

Any flexible rods are suitable for weaving flower beds.

The best twigs for weaving are willow, hazel, willow and birch. You can use unnecessary branches garden trees, for example apple trees, dogwoods. Grapevines and raspberry branches, which should be thinned out in the fall, are perfect. The main requirement is that they be flexible. You can harvest twigs at any time, but it is better in spring or autumn, when there are no leaves on them. To make a wattle fence with your own hands, you will need following materials and tools:

pointed stakes made from branches 2-3 cm thick;
flexible rods with a diameter of 1-1.5 cm;
wooden mallet;
sharp knife, pruning shears.

Guide to making a wicker fence for a flower bed

To make a fence, you need to drive pegs vertically, then the stakes are braided with pre-prepared rods in a zigzag pattern.

You should start making a wattle fence with your own hands by selecting a place for the future flower bed. Then you should remove the top layer of soil with grass and weeds and outline the contours of the flower bed. Next, along the perimeter, calculate how many pegs are needed. They will need to be driven into the ground at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other. There is one little trick that will allow you to keep the wattle fence in decent shape longer. To do this, you need to drive another peg very close (5 cm) next to the corner peg on both sides to connect the rods into the lock. To do this, they are passed through 3 corner sticks without cutting them. Then they will not fall out if you accidentally hit the curb, as often happens with a regular fence.
For vertical stakes, the length should be equal to the height of the fence, plus the same amount to go deeper into the ground. For example, for a fence 25-30 cm high, you will need pegs 50 cm long. The stakes must be sharpened at one end and treated with an antiseptic to avoid their rapid rotting. You can also use metal supports, but this will ruin the aesthetic appearance. Then use a mallet to hammer in the stakes at equal distances from each other. The closer they are located, the stronger and denser the weaving will be.
The rods must be flexible and long enough - at least 50 cm. It is advisable that one rod is enough for 3-4 spans. Before you start weaving with your own hands, it is advisable to soak the branches in water for a day so that they become more elastic. It is recommended to remove the bark from the rods and treat them, like the stakes, with a special solution. But you can simply thoroughly clean the branches of leaves and buds to avoid their germination.
Next, the stakes must be braided with prepared twigs in a zigzag pattern, passing branches first in front and then behind the pegs. You need to start weaving from the ground and use thicker rods first. If the rod runs out, the next one is taken. It is recommended to cut the joints at an angle and, if necessary, additionally secure them with wire or twine.

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Basic rules of weaving

You need to weave starting from the thick end of the branch to the thin one.

To prevent the bottom row from falling to the ground, and the top row from being separated from the fence, you can fasten them to the vertical rods with wire.
Weaving always starts from the thick end of the branch to the thin one. You cannot move around the fence in one direction: finishing one row, the next one must begin on the other side, evenly distributing the thin and thick ends of the rods. This will allow you to achieve a uniform thickness of the wattle fence.
It is necessary to ensure that the end of the rod does not fall on the peg where the vine from the previous row ended. In this case, you need to either shorten this rod or take another, longer one.

When the wattle fence is ready, you need to line the bottom and sides with plastic wrap. This will protect it from rotting and soil spillage. Drainage is made from pieces of brick, crushed stone and sand to drain excess water, which will prevent damage to the roots. Now you can fill the fertile soil, water it abundantly and plant the plants. You can decorate a flower bed with berries in the same way. Such a flower garden, made with your own hands, allows you to grow wonderful flowers even on poor soil and reap a rich harvest of wild strawberries.