Treatment of the ends of the frame from cracking. Processing the ends of the log house. What is better for processing

Today we will talk about such work as processing the end sides of logs. This is very important stage When building a log house, you shouldn’t think that the neighbor didn’t do anything and the trouble will pass me by. And remember, your neighbor’s trouble has not passed at all, but is lurking and waiting to hit him harder.

Wood is, first of all, a living material, and requires proper attention and care.
Left to chance, vital processes will not lead to anything good. That’s why we will introduce you to why, how and with what to process the end of a log house according to the opinion and experience of the company’s specialists and we hope that we can protect you from unpleasant surprises.
When sawing timber and logs, we open up a “green” street for various kinds of fungi and pathogenic bacteria of the tree; trust our experience, they will not deny themselves the pleasure of settling in the open pores of the wood and creating their own colonies, which will lead to the development of putrefactive processes.

To prevent such a scourge, the appropriate areas should be treated by special means protection with antiseptics.

If there is a need to completely process the entire log house, then it is necessary to take into account following rules:
- it is impossible to carry out processing immediately after the log house is erected; it is necessary to withstand a certain period of time, approximately one year, so that the wood acquires the necessary moisture content;
- when carrying out work from the outside, under no circumstances should you apply products inside the house; allow the wood to “breathe”;
- darkened areas are cleaned only before applying products and not before.
This is what concerns the processing of the house itself, now let's move on to the next stage, ENDS.

The end sides, as we have already written, are nothing more than ordinary cuts, which are “conductors” for tree diseases. This is the “Achilles heel” and treatment is carried out immediately. Why?
Yes, everything is simple, there is no escape from the laws of nature and physics:
- along the side fibers located along the fibers, moisture moves to the end sides very quickly;
- with untreated ends, moisture evaporation occurs unevenly, which leads to the formation of cracks;
- on open areas the end sides of the log are instantly colonized by fungi and other pests, this is favored by the increased humidity of the sawn area;
- Treated sides allow drying processes to occur naturally, which prevents the formation of cracks.

SELECTING THE COMPOSITION FOR PROCESSING.
Let's start in the old fashioned way, using our favorite and proven ancient method, using LIME.
This is a natural antiseptic, which also provides excellent protection against UV radiation. The price is cheap, what else do you need? We see joy in the eyes, but don’t rush to go shopping, there is one significant BUT.
This composition will wash away the very first rain, but if you are stubborn and continue processing after each precipitation, then it’s up to you. Some people seal the cuts with diluted PVA glue or paint over them with acrylic-based varnish. In these cases, the pores of the wood are completely clogged and air circulation and moisture exchange processes are disrupted.
Currently developed modern means end protections that are functional, easy to use and reliable. Let's look at some formulations from local manufacturers.
Reviews on their use, according to a consumer survey, were divided into two camps, but since such means exist, we will mention them for educational purposes, and the choice to use them or not is yours: “SENEZH TOR” is a gift from Russian manufacturers.
The composition has the ability to deeply impregnate wood fibers, allowing water to pass through, but at the same time controls and reduces the evaporation of moisture from the depths of the wood, preventing the formation of cracking and deeper cracks. An environmentally friendly material, as it does not contain toxic components that affect the health of people and the surrounding air. Non-flammable, resistant to sub-zero temperatures.

"NEOMID TOP PLUS" - " cousin» of the previous composition, forms an elastic film on the surface of the ends, which repels moisture, but allows the wood to “breathe”. Protects against rotting and mold formation.

“BIOTOR” - the principle of operation is similar to the previous ones, with natural shrinkage it protects against cracking and reduces deformation.

How to competently trim a log frame.
When building walls, we often see a difference in the length of the logs, there is nothing special here and it is simply necessary to level them with a handy tool, a chainsaw, so that the protrusions are the same. Mandatory grinding will remove darkened areas and visible small flaws when cutting logs.
Work is being done grinder or a “grinder” equipped with a special attachment. The primary process involves sandpaper with a coarse abrasive, and the final one with a finer grit. We warn you that such work should only be carried out in clear, sunny and dry weather! Wet wood is difficult to process, and various kinds of burrs and other scuffs are guaranteed.

To start work, you will need a grinder and a sanding disc with P60-80 grain. Carefully sand the ends of the frame using a grinder, since the quality of these actions will determine how deep the penetration will be. protective composition into the structure of the log.

Impegnerants and septics

As a primary protection, you can use impregnating solutions, which contain various biocides that protect the tree from harmful bacteria, fungi and insects (the most dangerous of which, for example, the bark beetle). Such solutions are produced by both domestic and foreign manufacturers, for example, Tikkurilla offers seven positions of protective compounds.

Impregnating solutions are applied using a wide brush in several layers. Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has dried. It is recommended to apply two or three layers of this solution with a time interval of no more than 12 hours.

The disadvantages of impregnating solutions include the fact that they evaporate over time, so for reliable protection After processing the wood, it is advisable to cover it with an additional layer of sealant.

Please note that the log house purchased from the manufacturer must already be treated with an antiseptic. Moreover, the processing should be deep - with logs immersed in baths with a solution, i.e. one that cannot be performed.

Sealants

The main advantages of the sealant include the fact that it penetrates well into the structure of the wood and is fixed in it when it dries, preventing moisture from getting inside. The composition is applied with a brush, also in two layers. After drying, it forms an acrylic film on the end of the log, which will protect your log house.

Oils and paints

But there is more a budget option protect the log house by treating its ends with used machine oil, which you will find in any car service center or garage cooperative. For reliable protection, applying oil twice at intervals of 8-12 hours is sufficient.

Once a year it is necessary to carry out preventive greasing of the ends. Drying oil can also be used to protect a log house, since it has a reasonable price and is similar in effect to sealants, although over time it will evaporate and the treatment will need to be repeated. You can also paint the ends of the frame with paint that has been thinly diluted with a solvent. This method of applying acrylates or oil compounds will allow them to penetrate the wood fibers and seal them, keeping them from moisture and fungus.

Protection of log logs from CRACKING. Protection of the ENDS of the log house.

After assembling ANY wooden house, no matter what it is assembled from: from hand-cut logs, from rounded logs, from timber natural humidity or from profiled or planed timber, one of the main and most important tasks is to preserve appearance houses and the quality of logs or timber from CRACKING, preserve the ends of a house made of logs or timber from cracking.

How to avoid cracking of log logs and cracks in timber.

When building a house or a log bathhouse from hand-cut logs, as well as from rounded logs, a log or beam of natural moisture is usually used. The house is assembled and left to stand and dry naturally - “shrinkage”.
During this period, usually lasting from 6 months to 1 year, less often up to 3 years, the timber of the log house or beam begins to dry naturally, releasing excess moisture, which it was saturated with during the period of tree growth, in environment. Release time and speed excess moisture from the capillaries of timber, timber and logs depends on many initial factors:

• Wood harvesting time . Those. when wood was harvested for the construction of your house or bathhouse. If the forest was harvested for construction in the winter, then the moisture content of the logs and timber may be minimal, because sap flow in wood in winter is practically stopped or very little - the tree “sleeps” waiting out the winter and cold weather. But with the first rays spring sun the movement of juices and moles inside a living tree is activated, the wood is saturated with juices for growth in the warm summer season,
• Wood species , used to make your home. The looser the wood, the more it can crack. Dense wood releases excess moisture more evenly, which means less cracking occurs.
• Wood harvesting region . The more northerly, harsher, more continental the climate of growth and harvesting of wood from which to build a house, the more slowly the tree used to build your house or bathhouse can grow, the smaller the width of the “annual ring” by which the age of the tree is determined, the denser it is. the result is wood. From wood obtained in wetlands or damp lowlands, you are unlikely to be able to get a high-quality log house,
• From the age of the tree , used for the construction of a log house or for the manufacture of timber for it. The faster a tree grows, the longer it is, but thinner, the wood density of young trees is less than that of century-old pines, which are usually cut into high-quality log houses,
• From correct storage sawn trunks harvested even in winter or from winter felling forests. Immediately, the debarked log begins to quickly and unevenly release natural moisture, which affects uneven drying and, as a result, severe cracking,
• From the correct felling of the log house and processing of logs and felling of the log house carpenters in the manufacture of a log house and on the correctness of cutting the log house and the experience of carpenters who cut the log house and must know some rules that allow minimizing cracking of logs in the log house or bathhouse. For example, it is enough to make a small longitudinal cut with a chainsaw along the groove of a log in order to minimize external cracking of the log, and if the log tries to form a crack, then this minor rupture, in the presence of such a technological groove, should occur inside the log along the groove, and not along the outer or inner wall of the log facing outside or inside the log house. Such a crack does not affect the quality of the log house, does not spoil its appearance and is invisible on the surface of the house,

Usually quality houses they build natural moisture fellings from winter forest, the logs of which are harvested in December - February. The felling of a log house on plots according to the customer's design or the production of timber for the customer's house kit can also be done in the winter. Cutting a log house and preparing timber on sawmills usually takes about a month. The first log houses for assembly on the customer's site are usually ready for delivery to the customer by the end of February, beginning of March. Assembling a medium-sized 7x9 house takes approximately 2 weeks to a month. Those. log house from winter forest could be delivered to the customer as early as March. The weather in March is still quite cold and the built house does not experience sharp temperature fluctuations and releases excess moisture relatively evenly.
Assembled into a finished house, the logs of the log house or the timber laid in the walls of the house must “dry”, “settle”, “stand” as evenly as possible for a certain time to avoid sudden removal of moisture from the logs or timber, which can lead to severe cracking of the log and timber or “twisting” logs and “twisting” beams in the walls of an assembled house. The slower the temperature changes at the time of standing of the log house, the smoother the differences in day and night temperatures, the better, more uniform and better than wood in the log house to get rid of excess internal moisture and the less likely the timber will crack in the walls of the house.

Why does cracking of logs and timber occur, cracks at the ends
logs and timber after assembling a house or bathhouse during the standing period.

Cracking of logs in a log house, cracking of the ends of logs, cracking of beams occurs due to the fact that the beam or log begins to give up its moisture very quickly and, as a result, unevenly, when different sides of the log or wall of the beam are unevenly heated by various external or internal influences, for example, sudden warming, rapid the onset of spring with warm weather during the day and severe cooling or frost at night. Rapid fluctuations in daily temperatures, active thermal effects of the sun, which strongly heats only one outer side of a house made of logs or timber assembled on standing, forced internal heating or heating of a log house when starting finishing at the unfinished stage of standing of a log house or bathhouse, it leads to a change in the difference in wood density. Logs of a log house on the heated sunny side, where the density of the wood has become less due to the rapid dehydration of the log or timber, causing the density of the wood to become less than the density of the moisture-saturated log on the side of the house not heated by the sun, the log ruptures - cracks in the logs of the log house or cracking of the timber, or twisting of the timber in the wall of the house, which leads to deformation of the timber in the wall and the wall itself.

How to avoid cracking of logs or beams in a log house.
Protect the frame of the house from cracking. Protection of timber from cracking.
How to protect the ends of logs from cracks. Protection of ends from cracking

Even if the weather allows the log house assembled for standing to dry relatively evenly, then TO AVOID CRACKING OF THE LOG and ENDS OF THE LOG, IT IS STILL NECESSARY TO EVEN THE DENSITY OF THE WOOD DENSITY OF THE ENTIRE SURFACE OF THE LOG.
Looking at a cut of a log, you can see that the log or beam in cross section has annual rings. The closer to the core of the log, the thicker the annual rings, the looser the wood, its density is naturally lower, here the wood is the oldest, it was formed when the tree was still very young. The closer to the edge of the log, the THINTER the annual rings, the density of the log is higher, the wood is harder, the capillaries are thinner. The densest layers of a log are the outer annual rings, which are located practically under the bark and which remain on the surface after debarking the trunk during the manufacture of a log house. But when cutting logs to the size of a log house, the softest parts of the log still partially end up on the surface of the log along the end edges of the log, bare and unprotected.

Conditions preventing cracking of logs and timber:

1. Gradual drying of the log, uniform smooth changes in temperature when a log house made of logs or timber is standing,
2. Equal wood density on all sides and ends of the log,
3. Ensuring equal vapor permeability of the log on all sides, preventing uneven saturation of the wood of a log or timber in its different areas by external natural or other factors such as rain, precipitation, etc. and for the uniform release of excess moisture from the capillaries of the wood,

The first condition can be met by giving the log house at least half a year time to naturally stand and dry, with the active organization of a ventilation system external walls and the internal space of the log house, making technological openings in the log house in the places of windows and doors for blowing and ventilating the log house.
The second and third conditions can be achieved by treating sections of logs with special protective compounds and impregnations. Equal density over the log area is ensured by treating the softest sides or parts of the log with SPECIAL impregnations to PROTECT the ENDS of the log house. Having treated the loosest areas of the log - the ENDS of the logs - with high-quality moisture-proof but VAPTOR-PERMEABLE impregnations to protect the ends, for example Oil wax Butt (link to the manufacturer's website Oil wax for end protection ), we thus compact them, smoothing out the density of the wood over its entire area. With an equally uniform density of wood, moisture will be removed from a naturally drying log evenly along the entire length of the trunk, thereby reducing the risk of rupture and cracking of logs or beams. The ENDS of logs treated with a SPECIAL vapor-permeable moisture-proof impregnation will not get WET; moisture will be removed through them in exactly the same way and at exactly the same speed as on the outer sections of the log, where the density of the wood was higher than that of the untreated section of the end of the log.

Compositions for protecting logs and beams from cracks.
Impregnations to protect the ends of logs from cracking

Protection of the ends of the log house from cracks and cracking - photo.
Protection of log logs from cracking - photo

To protect the walls of the house from the influence of precipitation, sun rays, exposure to wind, insects and mold, the walls of the log house are impregnated with special protective solutions and painted. In this way, the tree is protected from darkening, cracking of the ends of the logs, and the release of resin from cut knots.

When choosing a method of painting natural wood after sanding, they try to preserve it natural properties, leave the tree the opportunity to independently regulate the humidity in the house and maintain the vapor permeability of the walls.

Sometimes only the outside surface of the walls is painted. For example, such a finish is often sufficient for an oak bathhouse. The walls are not painted to avoid harmful fumes inside the sauna under the influence of heat and moisture and to preserve the vapor permeability of the wood. The walls of a residential building are also treated inside.

When can you start painting a log house?

Builders do not recommend painting the outside of log houses that are less than two years old after construction. During the first and second years, the house will shrink and dry out.

Processing of the log house from the outside begins from the ends of the logs. They are painted immediately after construction is completed. This is done to even out the loss of moisture in the logs, because the ends dry faster than the sides. At the same time, the walls are coated with an antiseptic to protect the wood from pests and fungus.

The inner surface of the walls is painted when the wood moisture content reaches 19-20%. This period begins six months after the construction of the house. The moisture level is measured with special devices - wood moisture meters. When the humidity reaches the desired value, the wood will absorb the primer well after sanding, and the paint will lie smoothly and last a long time.

Painting the exterior walls of a log house

The advantages of painting the external walls of a log house:

1. The walls receive protection from insect pests.
2. Logs are resistant to corrosion, rotting and fungus.
3. The fire resistance properties of the house are improved.
4. The wood does not darken or crack.
5. You will give the house modern look by using different shades paints, and you can also decorate all your homestead buildings in the same style.

How to paint a log house

1. We clean the surface of the logs from the outside. The walls must be thoroughly washed from dust. To do this, use a soft brush and a damp cloth. There is no need to generously water the walls. They must dry thoroughly before the next step.
2. . The walls should be smooth after sanding so that the paint will apply evenly. The surface of wooden logs is treated with sandpaper. Start working with coarse grain sandpaper, and end up fine-grained. You can speed up the work if you use a grinder with an emery wheel for sanding.
3. We cover the walls with protective compounds. Fire retardant impregnation is applied first, followed by bioprotection.
4. Apply 2 layers of each product to the wall and wait until it dries completely. The instructions for the paint indicate the exact drying time for one layer.
5. A water-repellent coating is applied. For this purpose, paints or special protective mixtures are used. After each coat of paint, the wall is allowed to dry for a couple of days. The first layer must be done with a brush. Subsequent layers can be applied using a spray gun, protecting the eyes with goggles and the respiratory tract with a respirator.

Modern industry produces painting materials that initially contain insect repellents and fire-retardant impregnations. The use of such mixtures allows you to significantly speed up the painting of external walls after sanding.

How to choose a material for painting exterior walls

When choosing what to paint a log house with, you need to select materials that, after drying, will retain the natural ability of wood to regulate the level of humidity in the room.

Also, painting materials are selected in accordance with design solution. The exterior design of the house should correspond to its style. House like old manor, can be painted in light colors: white, blue. An old-style log house can be dark color with white ends. Most often, houses are painted with transparent varnishes or paints to match the wood from which they are built.

Let's look at the advantages and disadvantages of wood paints.

Types of paints for wood

If “breathable” is selected for processing acrylic paint, then you need to ensure that before applying it, the vapor permeability of the walls is not damaged by antiseptics or an alkyd-based primer with white spirit. All products used to treat the wall after sanding must be vapor-permeable and environmentally friendly. Primers and antiseptics without organic solvents based:

• acrylic and acrylate;
• wax;
• natural oils.

They should not form an airtight film on the wall being painted.

How to paint a log house at the ends of the logs

Cracks appear at the ends because in these places the wood quickly loses moisture. To prevent cracking, the ends of the logs are painted over. The coating must be vapor permeable. Its function is to slow down moisture loss and protect the tree from adverse environmental influences.

The ends of the log house are sealed with paint immediately after the building is built. Lime is most often used for these purposes. water-based paint or a special coating for the ends of logs. After sanding, you need to paint the ends carefully, in 3-4 layers.

How to paint the interior walls of a log house

Are acrylic and alkyd paints For interior work. They paint the walls from top to bottom, carefully brushing each log.

Paints should not be used for exterior use. Using them internally is not advisable and is dangerous to health.

How to paint the walls of a bathhouse from the inside

Painting the walls of a bathhouse requires a special approach. Logs inside the house are constantly exposed to heat and moisture. Some types of wood are not painted at all, but over time the surface of the walls darkens, so it is better to protect them.

The paint must withstand a temperature range from -25 to +120 degrees. Another requirement for paint quality is elasticity. This property ensures that the coating layer will not crack. Cracks lead to a decrease in the protection of the wall surface from moisture.

Most often when processing interior walls after sanding, varnishes are used on water based. They protect the surface from moisture and rot, preserving the color and aroma of natural wood.

Foreign and Russian manufacturers produce special products for coloring Finnish hot air saunas and Russian baths with high humidity. These products include antibacterial components that protect the surface of the walls from fungus. If the paint is chosen correctly, drops of moisture flow down the walls without being absorbed into them.

The shelves in the bathhouse are covered with oil or wax impregnation. The mixture is thoroughly rubbed into the surface to protect the wood from cracking, darkening and bacteria. Varnish cannot be used for these purposes, because the wood will heat up in the sauna so much that it will be impossible to sit on it.

Thus, in order to preserve the attractive appearance of walls made of natural logs and preserve the ability of wood to regulate the level of humidity in the house, it is advisable to use water-based paints. When preparing walls after sanding for the next stage of processing, carefully select mixtures for bioprotection. Such impregnations should not create a vapor-proof film on the surface. The same requirements apply to means for improving the fire resistance of wooden walls.

Oil with wax to protect the ends of logs and beams from cracking. Impregnation for wood against wood cracking Oil wax:

• Oil wax It is made on an oil-wax base. Oil wax for ends is a NATURAL impregnation without the content of artificial chemical substances. Oil wax for ends is safe for people and animals, natural, practically does not cause allergies and has a certificate. End protection oil is odorless after drying. Oil wax Butt has
  • biosecurity,
    
  • does not emit toxic fumes,
  • does not interfere with wood breathing - wood “breathes”
  • average protection period - more than 5 years(according to the manufacturer)
    
  • effective consumption against cracking from 150 g/m2
    

Differences in impregnation for ends of the Maslovosk series:

Purpose of the Oil for protecting the ends of the log house and beams:

End protection oil is intended for protective and decorative finishing of the ends of logs and beams made of all types of wood for the purpose of protecting wooden structures from rotting, mold, blue stains and insects, as well as preventing CRACKING of log logs, preventing cracking of timber and any wood products. Oil Wax End prevents the wood treated with it from getting WET, but at the same time leaves the surface “BREATHABLE” (vapor permeable), and does not completely “clog” the pores of the wood, unlike paint or other impregnation.
The main positive property of Oil with wax in protecting logs and beams from cracks and for protecting logs is the uniform COMPACTING of wood in its soft areas - the core (at the ends on the first annual rings, the wood is the loosest and has the lowest density, so it quickly rots and gets wet. Untreated The core wood of the tree is like a sponge, drawing in moisture) and ensuring uniform density across the entire surface of the log. If the density of a log NOT treated with Oil and wax for the ENDS of a log in a finished log house or timber is uneven, the residual drying of the wood is uneven due to its different density on the surface, different speeds drying of wood, so in untreated logs and beams, CRACKS may form at the ends of the logs and along the entire log or beam. When wood is treated with Oil Wax for Ends, the external density of the surface of the log and beam becomes the same over the entire surface of the log or beam. Therefore, the wood CRACKS LESS or the number of cracks is significantly reduced, and the ends of the logs do not absorb moisture and are also less susceptible to cracking.

Impregnation against cracks "Oil wax Butt" It is also intended to protect the ends of wood from biological damage and atmospheric influences. impregnation for wood protection based on oil and wax Oil wax End penetrates deeply along the wood fibers, forming a special breathable water-repellent coating on the end surface that normalizes the evaporation process excess moisture made of wood.

Composition for protecting logs and beams from cracking linseed oil and wax has good impregnation ability. The wood fibers of the ends, like many small capillaries (straws), draw the product into the wood, which leads to an increase in the strength of the wood.

Impregnation with oil and wax to protect the wood of log houses and beams Oil wax End after treatment forms a “breathable” and hydrophobic coating, helps protect the wood from biological damage (blue stains, mold, rot). After impregnation, the wood acquires strength, weather resistance, fungal resistance and moisture resistance.

The special natural UV filter included in the oil and wax for the ends increases the resistance of the surface coating to solar UV radiation.

impregnation to protect the ends, logs and beams from cracks can be purchased in two versions: colorless and tinted (coloring - on order. min. order from 50 kg).

Application of impregnation to protect logs and beams from cracks and cracking:

• External wooden surfaces:
  • Walls and roof parts,
  • Houses and bathhouses made of logs and timber,
  • Timber log houses
  • timber, lumber (with residual humidity no more than 35%),
• Internal wooden surfaces of summer rooms:
  • Ends of log logs, ends of timber,
  • Walls made of logs and timber in the house and bathhouse,
  • Beam, lumber (with residual humidity no more than 35%)
    

  For reliable protection, it is advisable to ensure that the moisture content of wood before treatment with oil-wax impregnation Maslovok is no more than 35%. The surface of the wood to be treated must be free of contamination and free of paint and varnish coatings. Surface treatment is carried out by applying impregnation with a patchwork rag or a brush, a brush with very short and dense bristles to ensure the consumption per 1 m2 specified by the manufacturer.

  • Drying time - from 3 hours to 24 hours.
  • Consumption of Oil wax Butt is ONLY 130-150 g/m2

Oil impregnation to protect logs and timber from the formation of cracks on the surface of the log and timberOil wax Butt can be used to process wood and applies a protective composition when sub-zero temperatures (up to - 35°C).

Consumption of Oil wax to protect the ends and to protect the log house from cracks:

Shelf life of bioprotective impregnation Maslovosk Butt:

Appearance of the surface treated with Oil wax End:

After processing, the wood is treated with oil-wax impregnation to protect the logs of logs and beams from cracking. Oil wax END is not painted, the texture of the wood does not change. NO efflorescence is formed on the surface of the wood. Previously darkened wood color is not restored after treatment.

untreated Oil wax Butt	treated with Oil wax - 6 months	NOT processed Oil wax Butt	result Maslovosk End after 1 year

Color of house wood treated with impregnation to protect the ends Oil wax End:

Oil wax for end protection - This natural impregnation to protect the ends of the frame.