The compressor can bring a lot of benefits in various areas of life. Perhaps you need a device for quickly inflating car tires, or you decided to get into airbrushing, but you don’t have suitable equipment and don't want to buy. You can solve this problem by making a compressor with your own hands. We will talk about how to do this and what is needed for this.
Make or buy
Before you learn how to make a compressor with your own hands, you need to figure out how and what tasks it can solve homemade version, and how to deal with them purchased in the store unit. In this regard, everything depends more and more on the direction for which you need a compressor. If you need it for a simple tire inflation, then you can use a home-made one.
Another thing is if you are drawn to creativity. It doesn't have to be airbrushing to trip over flaws. home version. The thing is that painting requires a uniform and uniform air flow. It should be free of debris and other small particles.
If these conditions are not met, it will be possible to get grainy paint or other types of defects as a result. This is what you should think about first of all when you see photos of homemade compressors.
To all of the above, you can add inhomogeneous spots and streaks, which will be a problem even when painting a bicycle frame, to say nothing about car details.
Despite this, both types of compressors are arranged in much the same way, as far as the basics are concerned. In any case, you need a tank in which the air is under high pressure. It can be generated by manual injection, or it can appear from mechanical impact.
If the first option is cheaper to implement, then it should be borne in mind that it will be much more difficult to work, because you will constantly need to monitor the pressure level inside the compressor.
In case the compressor is equipped with additional automation, all you need to do is add oil from time to time or change it. The result of the operation of such a device will be a constant and uniform supply of air, which can play a very important role for you.
Preparation
Here we come to step by step instructions to assemble the compressor at home. If we talk about its advantages, then first of all it is worth remembering the volume of work, because such a unit will work much quieter than the factory version. To do this, it will be necessary to hermetically connect all the components, but this work is worth the effort.
What can you make a compressor with your own hands?
First you need something that can replace the receiver. A simple car camera works well for this. Next, you will need to find a simple pump on which a pressure gauge is installed. It is needed to increase the air pressure inside the chamber. To this we add a simple awl, repair kit for the wheel and a simple nipple for the camera.
First of all, you need to make sure that the chamber is still tight and does not let air through. If it turns out that it does not cope with its tasks, under conditions of increased pressure, the consequences can be serious.
If during the check you find air leaks, then the chamber must be sealed, and this is best done using vulcanization.
Since our camera will act as a receiver, we will need to make another hole in it, for which we need a simple awl. It will need to paste the nipple, which I spoke about earlier. It will be used to bring air into the chamber.
For correct installation the nipple will fit well with the rem kit that is listed in the list necessary details. Then we unscrew the nipple and check how the air moves.
A do-it-yourself mini compressor is made according to the same principle, you just need to take a smaller chamber, for which you need a pump of less power. Such an installation will have lower productivity, but will have a certain compactness.
Peculiarities
After everything that has been done before, you need to install the bleed valve on the nipple that was originally on the camera. It is necessary to ease the pressure if it rises too high. In order to check the performance of the device not only by direct use, it will not be superfluous to install an additional pressure gauge.
Otherwise, if you are painting, you will need to first make a test run, then look at the uniformity of the enamel or plain paint, and only then start working. This is not very convenient, and can be quite expensive, depending on the price of materials.
It is important to know that when checking the pressure level with a pressure gauge, its arrow should not twitch. If this happens, the whole structure should be checked, as this is a signal that the air flow is not uniform.
In fact, the idea of \u200b\u200bhomemade compressors and the manufacture of one does not require any superpowers. Naturally, you will need direct hands, basic skills in working with different tools, well, and most importantly - the desire to do all this. If you need a compressor for professional needs, then it is better to turn to ready-made solutions.
There are many reviews that homemade compressors work more reliably and at the same time are more durable. It is important to understand that it depends primarily on who made this unit, and no less important are the materials that were used to create it.
If you want to work in your garage or shed as a hobby, then you have enough free time to do it - why not.
DIY compressor photos
Using a 12-volt compressor, you can inflate tires, remove debris and dust, blow (clean) lattice elements, inflate balls, supply compressed air to an airbrush, etc.
If the compressor is equipped with a receiver, then its operation will be facilitated. After all, such a container creates a supply of compressed air, which allows you to take breaks in the operation of the compressor.
This will increase the quality of the air supplied, as the receiver equalizes the pressure, smoothes the pulsations, cools the compressed air coming from the compressor, and collects condensate.
Required accessories
Our installation will consist of two main parts: a compressor and a receiver - a fire extinguisher body. For safe and reliable operation of the device, it is important that the pressure generated by the compressor (140 psi ≈ 10 bar ≈ 10 kg/cm2) is not more pressure for which the fire extinguisher body is designed (20 bar ≈ 20 kg / sq.cm).
To create an installation that works in automatic mode, we need the following accessories:
- locking unit on the receiver with a system of threaded channels;
- safety valve;
- pressure gauge with bar scale;
- pressure switch;
- valve in the form of a ball valve;
- spiral and linear hoses;
- airgun;
- 12 volt battery;
- fittings, unions and adapters.
- wrenches and pliers;
- drill and crimper (tool for crimping wire lugs);
- hacksaw and scissors;
- sealing rings and FUM tape;
- knitting wire and double-sided adhesive tape;
- piece plastic pipe.
Making a receiver from a fire extinguisher housing for a 12 V compressor
Under the receiver, it is better to choose a fire extinguisher with a large volume. In this case, its efficiency when working in tandem with the compressor will be higher.
Next, we unscrew the shut-off valve with a hose, shake out its contents from the body (usually this is a substance based on ammonium phosphates, as the cheapest, but there may be other compounds).
Then we wash the fire extinguisher body from the inside clean water repeatedly. Wipe the outside of the container with a clean cloth and dry the inside with a hair dryer.
Receiver package
Before this stage of work, we once again compare the characteristics of the compressor and the former fire extinguisher housing, and make sure that our receiver will correspond in all respects to the capabilities of the compressor.
We screw a locking unit with a central channel and four lateral threaded holes into the neck of a metal container.
We screw the safety valve into one of the side channels, adjusting it to a lower opening pressure.
Of the two pressure gauges available, we select the one that is graduated in units of bar pressure, and also screw it into the other side channel on the shut-off unit.
In the two remaining channels, we screw in an adapter and a switch-pressure switch - the main element of the automation system, which turns on the compressor when the pressure in the receiver becomes less than the working one.
From above, we screw the ball valve for supplying compressed air from the receiver or its overlap into the shut-off unit.
Next, using a set of rubber rings, FUM tape and keys, we seal and strengthen the joints of all elements with the locking unit and the last one with the body of the future receiver.
It remains to screw onto the ball valve, also using a sealing ring and FUM tape, an adapter for installing a spiral hose, at the other end of which a tool powered by compressed air will be attached through the same adapter (we have an air gun).
Compressor piping
We first check its performance by connecting it to a 12-volt battery, and make sure that everything is in order with it.We put on the hose adapter on the compressor outlet fitting. We seal with the help of FUM tape and firmly tighten the hex connector with keys.
We install the compressor on the receiver in the place where it will be fixed later. We cut off the hose at the outlet with scissors, leaving a small process on which we put a plastic rectangular fitting. It is necessary to give the desired direction to the hose that will come out of it and connect to the adapter on the receiver. Between the last two parts, a hex connector cuts into the hose - it is also check valve.
Installing the compressor on the receiver
We stick strips of double-sided tape on the supporting surfaces of the compressor base. This will allow you to pre-fix the nodes relative to each other, and further contribute to the strength of the connection.Then, using pliers and a tie wire, which we pass through the holes in the base, we firmly fasten the compressor to the receiver.
Manufacture of the basic part of the installation
To do this, you need a piece of plastic pipe, comparable in size to the outer diameter of the receiver. Using a hacksaw, cut three rings of equal width from the pipe.
In two rings we make a transverse cut so that they can be put on the receiver. The third ring is cut into two equal parts. They, in fact, will be the "legs" of our installation.
In two rings, at points diametrically opposite to the cuts, we drill holes with a drill. We do the same in the semirings in their center.
We connect the rings with half rings in pairs using screws and a drill, screwing the hardware from the side of the split full ring.
On inner part split rings, covering the screw heads, glue on a strip of double-sided tape to fix the rings on the receiver case from below.
We install the rings on the receiver, expanding them along the cut. For the strength of fixing the rings on the surface of the receiver, under each end of the ring, starting from the cut and below, we also glue a strip.
Selecting the pressure in the receiver and setting the relay
After connecting the hoses and turning on the compressor, we check the increase in pressure in the receiver by the pressure gauge and the operability of the unit using an air gun with the power off. Relieve the pressure in the receiver using safety valve by pulling the ring on the stem.
We cut one strand of wire from the compressor and connect its ends to the pressure switch using lugs and a crimper. We turn on the compressor again and make sure that the pressure in the receiver increases.
Simple air compressor, with which you can perform painting work or pump up car tires, you can make it yourself from improvised materials. A homemade compressor will work no worse than its factory counterparts, and the cost of its manufacture will be minimal.
You can make a mini compressor for connecting a spray gun or an airbrush from a car pump, having improved it a little. Modernization of the compressor will increase its power (performance) and will consist in adapting it to a voltage of 220 V (instead of 12 V), connecting the device to the receiver and installing automation.
Adaptation of the device for voltage 220 V
To connect the autopump to a 220 V network, you will need to find some power supply (PSU), the output of which will be 12 V and the current strength suitable for the device.
Advice! For this purpose, a power supply from a computer is well suited.
You can find out the value of the current consumed by the device by looking at its nameplate. In this case, the power supply from the PC (see the figure above) will be quite enough in terms of current and voltage.
So, if you insert the plug of the electrical cord into the PC power supply and turn it on, then nothing will happen. This is because the PSU will not turn on until it receives a signal from the PC. To simulate turning on a PC, on the connector coming out of the PSU, you need insert a jumper. You will need to find among the many conductors one green wire, and the second black, as shown in the following photo.
These wires can be cut and twisted, but it is better to short them with a jumper.
Because the pump has car cigarette lighter plug, then it can be cut off, and the device can be connected to the corresponding color with wires from the PSU.
But it would be better if you buy a car cigarette lighter and connect it to the power supply, and connect the device itself using a standard plug.
There are 3 wires coming out of the cigarette lighter: red - “+”, black - “-” and yellow - “+”, designed to connect the LED. Connect the wires to the cigarette lighter, observing the polarity (see photo below).
If you insert the plug from the device into the cigarette lighter, you will get a 220 V electric air compressor that can not only inflate tires, but also work with an airbrush.
Connecting additional elements
To connect the device to the receiver, it is necessary to assemble the structure shown in the diagram below.
This binding includes the following elements.
- cross, which has all outputs with VR1/2. Marking means: "BP" - internal thread, "1/2" - thread diameter in inches.
- Tee, has all outputs with HP1/2 (“HP” – external thread).
- valves in the amount of 2 pcs. (VR1/2 - VR1/2). Designed to block the movement of air in both directions. The double marking means that there is an internal thread on both sides of the valve.
- . Designed to allow air to flow in one direction only. You can install a simple spring valve BP1/2 - BP1/2. If you plan to work with a pressure of 6-7 bar, then you need to select a check valve that does not have plastic parts.
- straight nipple, is an adapter with 2 external threads (HP1/2).
- adapter nipple HP1/2 - HP1/4. Allows you to change from one external thread diameter to another.
- Extension(60 mm) HP1/2 - HP1/2. This is the same nipple, only straight. That is, the thread at both ends has the same diameter.
- Reducing coupling. It is an adapter from an internal thread of one diameter to internal thread with another. In this case, from BP1/2 to BP1/8.
- Tee, which has all outputs already with a HP1 / 8 thread.
- Coupling straight BP1/8 - BP1/8. Has 2 identical internal threads.
- Hose adapter HP1/8.
- Pressure regulator (pressostat) with moisture-oil separator. The pressure switch allows you to maintain the air pressure in the receiver is not lower than the minimum and not higher than the maximum allowable level. The water separator can be omitted if the unit is to be used as a tire inflation pump. When using a painting unit, the installation of an oil-moisture separator is a prerequisite.
The above piping scheme assumes 2 outlet fittings: the first for air outlet to the spray gun (airbrush), and the second for tire inflation.
- adapter nipple HP1/4 - HP1/8.
- Futorka(HP1/4 - BP1/8), is an adapter with larger diameter external thread to the smaller diameter of the internal thread.
- Pressure gauges. These devices allow you to visually control the level of air pressure in the receiver and at the supply to the line.
When assembling all elements, it is necessary use thread sealant , for example, fum-tape. Pressure gauges can be connected via hose cuts high pressure. The latter should be pulled onto the adapters and fixed with clamps.
Pressure gauges can be screwed directly onto the thread, without the use of hoses, if it is not necessary to bring them to the front panel of the unit.
How the compressor piping assembled according to the diagram looks like is shown in the following photo.
The receiver for the autocompressor can be made from metal pipe large diameter, welded on both sides, a fire extinguisher or a gas cylinder. If the compressor is supposed to work only with an airbrush, then an ordinary tubeless wheel from a car can serve as a receiver.
Important! When selecting a container for the receiver, one should take into account the fact that the autopump can work no more than 10 minutes. continuously. Accordingly, the volume of the receiver should also be small (about 20 liters) so that the device can raise the air pressure in it to the required level before 10 minutes have passed.
A simple version of the unit from a fire extinguisher / gas cylinder
Making a compressor with your own hands using a fire extinguisher or a gas cylinder as a storage tank for air is quite simple. For example, the compressor unit itself, if you want to do powerful unit, you can take from Zilovsky compressor. But first it needs to be tweaked a bit.
Drill 2 holes in each connecting rod (assembled, including liners) and 1 hole in each connecting rod cap.
During the operation of the unit, the oil in the crankcase will flow through these holes to the liners and reduce friction between them and the crankshaft.
If you take receiver fire extinguisher, then you first need to remove all unnecessary parts from it, leaving only the container itself and the lid.
The cast iron cap should be threaded ¼ inch. Also, under the cast-iron cover, it is necessary to lay a rubber gasket, if it was not there, and tighten the cover, using fum-tape to seal the thread.
The steps for connecting all the strapping elements were described at the beginning of the article. But, since this unit is made from a ZIL 130 compressor, and is more powerful than the previously considered one, it will require the installation of a safety (emergency) valve. It will relieve excess pressure if for some reason the automation does not work.
You can also do gas bottle compressor. But first you need to release gas from the cylinder, and then twist the valve. Next, you need to completely fill the cylinder with water to remove residual gas. The container should be rinsed with water several times and, if possible, dried. Usually installed under the balloon gas burner and evaporate all the moisture from the container.
A futorka is screwed into the hole where the valve was placed, and a crosspiece is screwed into it, to which the automation and the entire harness are attached. A hole must be drilled in the lower part of the cylinder and a condensate drain fitting welded to it. You can install a regular water tap on the fitting.
For fixing on the receiver of the engine and the compressor block, a metal corner frame. Mounting bolts are pre-welded to the cylinder. The frame will be attached to them (see photo below).
Important! The engine for this unit should have a power of the order of 1.3 -2.2 kW.
You can also make a compressor for inflating tires yourself chainsaw which is beyond repair. The device is made from an engine, that is, from a piston block: the outlet hose is connected through a check valve instead of a spark plug, and the exhaust gas hole is blocked. To rotate the crankshaft, you can use either an electric motor or a conventional electric drill.
An air compressor made from a refrigerator, or rather, from its unit, is the most silent. But you should know that such a device is not different high performance . With it, you can only inflate car tires or work with an airbrush. For the normal operation of various pneumatic tools (screwdriver, grinder, spray gun, etc.), the performance of this unit is not enough, even if you connect a large volume receiver to it. Although on the Internet you can find designs consisting of two or three compressors connected in series, connected to a large receiver.
So, the unit removed from the refrigerator has start relay with power cord. Also, 3 copper tubes. Two of them are designed for air inlet and outlet, and the third (soldered) is for filling oil. If you turn on the device for a short time, you can determine which of the two tubes sucks in air, and from which it is blown out.
The following figure shows how to assemble the entire structure consisting of the unit, receiver and pressure regulator with pressure gauge.
Advice! Instead of a filter at the outlet, which sometimes bursts due to high pressure, it is better to install an oil-moisture separator. Its presence is mandatory if the device will be used for painting.
Installed on the inlet pipe air filter to prevent dust from entering the unit. To automate the process of pumping air, you can install automation in the form of a pressure switch.
DIY high pressure compressor
The high pressure compressor (HP) is made from two-stage compressor head AK-150.
As a drive, you can take 380 V motor, 4 kW. The rotation of the engine shaft is transmitted to the shaft of the piston group by means of an eccentric, which also serves as a drive for the plunger-type oil pump. It creates an oil pressure of about 2 kgf / cm 2.
Compressed air, leaving the last stage, enters through an adapter with a pressure gauge installed into the fitting of a liter cylinder, which is installed in its lower part. It also has a condensate drain valve. The balloon is filled with polished glass chips and acts as a moisture separator.
Air exits from the top of the cylinder through the finger fitting. Compressor cooling is water. After 45 min. operation of the unit, the water heats up to 70 degrees. The author of this unit claims that during this time it is possible to pump up 1 cylinder per 8 liters and 2 cylinders per 4 liters up to 260 atm.
The compressor is a necessary device in the household. Making it yourself is not very easy, but it is possible. And you will need improvised means for this, as well as small things from a building materials store.
materials
For creating homemade compressor from a fire extinguisher you will need:
- fire extinguisher OHP-10 with a volume of 10.5 liters (as a receiver);
- pressure switch PM5, designed for water, but also suitable for air;
- two water separator filters;
- one automotive fuel, fine cleaning;
- adapters;
- crosses;
- reinforced PVC hose with an inner diameter of 10 mm.
Everything that was included in the set, see the photo. I also purchased a valve (at first I thought that I would regulate the pressure with it, and that it is no different from the gearbox).
After I figured out that the valve and the gearbox are still somewhat different things, I bought a gearbox with a pressure gauge, and a separate pressure gauge, to measure the pressure inside the receiver. A thin silicone hose was also purchased at a pet store, costing 10 rubles / meter. It is very flexible, light and strong, nothing better to apply to an airbrush.
And of course, where without the FUM tape, which is sold in any plumbing store.
Step 1. First of all, we fasten the balloon to the base. We take out all the good from the lid, and from the inside of the fire extinguisher, we leave only the balloon itself and the lid.
Step 2. In the hole in the cast-iron cover, we cut the pipe thread, 1/4 inch. We also wind the FUM tape on the wide thread on the balloon, make a rubber gasket (in theory, I should have had it, but I did it somewhere, and as a result I cut it myself from the camera for the car, after construction I found my own) and screw it on cast iron cover.
Step 3. We screw an adapter from 1/4HP to 1/2HP inch into the hole in the cover.
Step 5. We screw the pressure switch into the crosspiece through the adapter 1/2НР-1/4НР, screw the adapter 1/2НР-1/2НР from the side.
Step 7. On one side, we fasten a gearbox to it through an adapter 1 / 2NR-1 / 4VR, which has a 1 / 4NR thread.
Step 8. From the other end, we also screw a pressure gauge with a 1/4HP thread through the adapter 1/2NR-1/4VN. On the opposite side of the cross, we screw in the valve (for venting air from the balloon), which has a 1/2HP thread.
Step 9. We screw a filter-drier to the gearbox, which has a 1/4HP thread and fits directly to the gearbox. The nuance here is that the filter must stand correctly (observe the top and bottom), and make sure that there is a drain hole at the lowest point.
Step 10. Next, we draw up a line of another filter, from the side of the inlet there is a 1/2BP fitting, which is connected through an adapter 1/2НР-1/4ВР, we screw it onto the filter having a 1/4НР thread. From the outlet, I was a little tricky, because there were extra parts, and there weren’t some necessary ones, in the end it turned out like this.
Step 11. An adapter 1/4НР-1/2НР is screwed into the hole in the 1/4ВР filter, a tee is screwed to it (here I had an extra one), on one side of which a plug with 1/2НР is screwed on, on the other side of the tee opposite to the filter, a fitting is screwed 1/2HP.
ATTENTION: I did it so tricky because there were extra parts so that you would not make this mistake, do it this way, a 1/4HP-1/2HP adapter is screwed into the outlet, and a fitting for a hose with a 1/2BP thread is screwed onto it. The bottom layout will be given specifically for this option.
Step 12. Further, to the hole with an external thread of an incomprehensible section and pitch (I could not find it) that comes out of the fire extinguisher as an outlet nozzle, a reinforced hose is ideally suited, which we fix on top with a clamp.
Step 13. From the other end of the hose we insert the fitting from the filter and also fix it with a clamp.
Step 14. Next, we again insert the reinforced hose from the inlet fitting of the filter and bring it to the outlet pipe of the compressor. How to fix this good there, I think you will figure it out. I have a tricky system of several gaskets there and everything is clamped on top with a clamp.
Step 15. In conclusion, we screw a 1/4HP fitting into the outlet of the 1/4BP filter, onto which we put a silicone tube that fits almost perfectly on it, and does not even require compression with a clamp, the second end of the tube is already to the airbrush.
Since the pressure after the reducer is small compared to the receiver, the tube can withstand it without any effort. At the inlet to the compressor, as I already said, an automobile filter is installed to purify the air.
Regarding the oil change, three pipes come out of the compressor. one input, another output, the third is sealed and is for topping up the oil. Here we bite it off with pliers, but make sure that the sawdust does not get inside, otherwise the motor may end.
Drain the oil from there. I honestly didn’t measure how much I poured, but something about a glass. I poured back the automobile oil of the formula 10W40, with a volume of about 350 grams. car oil better themes, which, firstly, has a bunch of additives that protect the motor, and secondly, unlike spindle oil, it does not “absorb” moisture.
What to buy where
1) The compressor from the refrigerator - either screw it, or buy it in organizations involved in the repair of refrigerators. How much it can cost there I have no idea, I was not interested.
2) Receiver (fire extinguisher) - get it at an enterprise or organization, you can write it off, or buy it, I heard that the price for such is about 200 rubles
3) Pressure switch - 250 rubles, in a store selling heaters, water pumps, and other plumbing products.
5) Reinforced hose with int. diam. 10 mm - 55 rubles / meter, I bought two meters at the car market, although one would be enough.
6) Silicone hose - 10 rubles / m, pet store, bought three meters.
7) Air filters-moisture separators - 170 rubles a piece, at the car market, I bought a pair.
8) Car gasoline fine cleaning filter - 35 rubles, car market.
9) Cross - 1pc
- Tee - 1 pc.
- Valve - 1 pc.
- Adapter 1/2НР-1/2НР - 1 pc.
- Adapter 1/2NR-1/4NR - 3 pcs.
- Adapter 1/2НР-1/4ВР - 3 pcs.
- fitting 1/2VR - 2 pcs.
- Fitting 1/4HP - 1 pc.
All this is bought in plumbing stores, and in total it will cost about 500 rubles.
10) Manometer - 1 piece, 90 rubles in a store selling heaters, water pumps, and other plumbing products.
11) FUM tape - 12 rubles, in any plumbing store.
12) Clamps - 5-10 rubles / piece. 6 pieces (or better 8 just in case), at the car market.
Amount: 1897 rubles.
Agree not so bad! It does not cover screws, bolts, angles, etc. elements with which you will fasten the receiver and compressor to the base.
Note: male thread, male thread, female thread BP!
Do it yourself small compressor very easy for an airbrush. For these purposes, you will need a small air compressor, as well as a container in which air under pressure will accumulate, in other words, a receiver. As a compressor, the author for this homemade product used a compressor from a refrigerator. As for the receiver, the OHP-10 fire extinguisher was perfect for these purposes, the volume of which, when measured, turned out to be 10.5 liters instead of the declared 8.5 liters, the fire extinguisher was obtained almost free of charge. The homemade author cost no more than 2,000 rubles.
Materials and tools for homemade:
- OHP-10 fire extinguisher or other suitable one;
- pressure switch RM5;
- two filters of a moisture separator;
- one fuel filter;
- reinforced PVC hose (inner diameter 10 mm);
- reducer with pressure gauge;
- pressure gauge for measuring the pressure inside the receiver;
- FUM tape;
- pliers, wrenches and other tools.
Airbrush manufacturing process:
Step one. Fire extinguisher preparation
The first step is to free the fire extinguisher from the contents. This must be done in an open area.
Now you get an empty bottle, you need to screw it to the base. This process won't amount to anyone great work.
Remove all contents from the lid, including the fire extinguisher. As a result, a bottle and a lid should remain.
Step two. Homemade assembly
The cast iron cap needs to be threaded with 1/4 inch pipe threads. On the wide thread of the cylinder, you need to wind the FUM tape for tightness, and also make a rubber gasket if the native one is lost or damaged. It can be made from a car camera. Well, then the cast-iron lid is screwed on.
Then a 1/4HP to 1/2HP inch adapter is screwed into the cover hole. Then you need to screw the cross 1/2 inch. Of course, all connections must be sealed with FUM tape.
A pressure switch must be screwed into the adapter with 1 / 2HP-1 / 4HP, and an adapter 1 / 2HP-1 / 2HP is also screwed in from the side.
The author screws a tee on the side.
Subsequently, a reducer is screwed to the tee using an adapter 1 / 2HP-1 / 4VR, it has a 1 / 4HP thread.
On the other hand, again, through the adapter 1 / 2HP-1 / 4VN, a pressure gauge is screwed on, it also has a 1 / 4HP thread. On the opposite side of the cylinder, it is necessary to screw in the valve, with the help of which air will descend from the cylinder. The valve has a 1/2HP thread.
A water separator filter must be connected to the gearbox, a 1/4HP thread is used here. It is important to install a filter under right angle. The drain hole must be at the lowest point.
Then you need to make a line of another filter. On the side of the inlet, there is a 1/2ВР fitting connected through an adapter 1/2НР-1/4ВР. It must be screwed onto the filter, which has a 1/4HP thread. What should happen in the end, you can see in the photo.
An adapter 1/4NR-1/2NR must be screwed into the filter hole 1/4VR, and then a tee is screwed to it. On one side, the tee is plugged with a 1/2HP plug, and on the opposite side, a 1/2HP fitting is screwed in.
Step three. Final build step
Now you need to take a reinforced hose and wind it onto the fitting coming out of the fire extinguisher, which acts as a nozzle. The hose is fixed with a clamp. On the other hand, a fitting from the filter is inserted into the hose, it is also fastened with a clamp.
After that, the hose is again connected to the filter and connected to the compressor tube. Everything is tied with clamps.
On final stage a similar fitting must be screwed into the outlet of the 1/4BP filter. a silicone tube is perfectly put on it, which does not even need to be fixed with a clamp. Well, the other end is connected directly to the airbrush.
Due to the fact that the pressure behind the reducer is small compared to the receiver, the tube can withstand it without any problems.
