Proper installation of windows in a house made of timber. The technology of installing plastic windows in a wooden house

The use of natural wood in construction is gaining momentum due to safety in relation to the environment and human health.

The appearance of a house made of timber differs from the banal brick "boxes". To give it aesthetics, it is important to choose and install windows correctly.

Features of installing plastic windows in a house made of timber

Having completed the main construction, the owner wooden house asks the question: to install plastic windows on their own, while saving finances, or to entrust the installation to professionals. The answer is unequivocal: it is better to order the installation to specialists, as it requires a certain technology. Companies specializing in such services know how to insert a double-glazed window into a timber structure in order to avoid the negative consequences of installation errors, and the work will take a minimum time.
A plastic window cannot simply be inserted into the opening, a special design is first created. It is several centimeters larger than the double-glazed window itself in case the wood dries out and will not allow it to be squeezed out or squeezed. Casing, or pigtail, strengthens the wall and takes the load on itself. Using this technology, you do not have to wait for the shrinkage process, but you can install double-glazed windows immediately after the completion of the construction of a wooden house.
Casing manufacturing steps:

• Sawed into window opening special combs.
• A window carriage with a groove is put on.
• The upper part of the casing is attached to the gun carriages with self-tapping screws.

Important: the design of the pigtail should be 8 cm less in height than the window opening itself. After fixing the casing, proceed to the installation of double-glazed windows.

Installation feature plastic windows in a house made of timber ─ this is that the platbands are attached to the casing, and not to the wall. Even if they are damaged, it is easier to replace the platband itself than the entire double-glazed window.
Casing main functions:

• Installation of an independent design of the window opening from the walls of the house.
• Installation of the gap between the window and the upper beam.
• Installation of connections between vertical bars between themselves in the window opening.

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Prices for wooden and plastic windows: which is preferable for operation?

Prices for wooden and plastic windows differ for each individual manufacturer. Prices for PVC products are on average 30% lower. Sometimes this is due to the use of wood with a high cost, and sometimes unreasonable cheating on the part of the manufacturer. The price of each specific product depends on the raw materials that were taken as a basis.

Plastic windows are presented by manufacturers in a large assortment: from economy models to exclusive options. Therefore, the price range is wide. The market offers double-glazed windows made from cheap raw materials, which are characterized by low quality and a health hazard.
Such models will not last long, so it is important to purchase windows only from trusted manufacturers.
Depending on how high-quality the product you ordered, how correctly you installed it and how exactly you followed the rules for care, the service life depends. On average, wooden windows serve 50 years, and plastic windows ─ 45. But it is wrong to focus only on the operating time, it is important to know some other points.

PVC window installation. Casing. Okosyachka.

Another criterion when choosing windows is reliability. When compared, it turns out that PVC products win in all respects.
When exposed to sunlight, the wood frame takes on a darker hue. It is prone to rapid fire. Scratches formed during operation are extremely difficult to repair.
Beetles and other insects are often found in wooden windows, which are subsequently difficult to remove.
Scratches on the plastic frame are easily removed, it is less whimsical. Over time, these windows can be laminated.

Comfort in the house is important for every person. Another argument in favor of buying plastic windows is the installation of additional functions:

• ventilation valves allow air to penetrate even when the window is closed;
• the mechanism "winter/summer" allows you to adjust the amount of air flow.

An important component for the long-term service of PVC windows is a quality installation and subsequent finishing window openings. To do this, the features of wooden buildings must be taken into account.

Pros and cons of plastic windows in a log house

If the differences in pricing did not help you make a choice, then after studying the pros and cons of plastic windows in log house making the decision much easier.

PVC double-glazed windows are used in construction much more often than alternative options due to the absence of significant drawbacks. But they are still there:
The installation of plastic windows in a timber structure differs from the typical installation method. It is more labor intensive and time consuming.
The use of cheap plastic by some companies in production, so they should be ordered only from enterprises that have a license and quality certificates.
There are many more advantages when installing such double-glazed windows in wooden houses:
Variety of choice of colors, shapes, designs, fittings and accessories. White windows do not always harmonize with wooden walls. But specialized stores offer a wide range: brown or wood-effect double-glazed windows that harmoniously fit into the style of the house.
Excellent thermal conductivity. In from a bar with plastic windows heat is well kept.
The owner of the log house, choosing PVC double-glazed windows, can safely count on high sound and heat insulation, which reduces heating costs.
Unpretentiousness in care and durability of use are the main arguments in favor of buying plastic windows.

Glad to be of service to you again, my friends!

After examining my windows in a wooden house, I came to the conclusion that it was time to replace them. I have not come across such a process yet, so I made up for the lack of practical experience with the help of other people's knowledge: I “overlooked” a bunch of forums and websites, through friends I found people who had already done similar work. After he made a number of conclusions and determined the algorithm of his actions when reinstalling windows. Next, I will state everything sequentially.

First of all, I measured the windows and ordered new ones, reporting the exact dimensions. While the order was being fulfilled, I started dismantling the old frames, and then cleaning the openings from accumulated debris. Upon receipt of the windows, he installed window sills and prepared double-glazed windows for installation. He put the structures in permanent places and fixed them. Of course, in reality, the process was not so fleeting and easy, but there is nothing overwhelming in it - I did it and you will succeed.

The technology of installing a plastic window in the opening of a wooden house

When installing a plastic double-glazed window in the pigtail of a wooden house, you cannot do without a level and a plumb line - if you want the window sashes to move smoothly, not open under their own weight, or jammed. Then never fix the window without making sure - not by eye, but by level, that it is level.

So that the work in connection with inserting the window into the opening and leveling does not go down the drain, it is necessary to fix the leveled structure with mounting fasteners.

The best option is 6 pieces for each window. They can be ordered in the same place where you give an application for the manufacture of double-glazed windows.

Under these fasteners on each side of the window there are technical slides, so there will be no difficulties with the correct placement of the plates. Each plate has holes for self-tapping screws. Is it possible to do without plates? Yes, if you want to drill through the frame when attaching it, which will cause depressurization of the chambers in the profile. Personally, I am against such barbarity - I need windows not only for beauty, but also for reliable protection from cold and moisture. And to the installers, if you do not install them yourself, also tell them to install the windows according to the rules. Only in this case, the expectations from plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden house will be fully justified.

I strongly advise you to remove the window sashes from the frame before installing it in the opening. This will not take much time, but it will save a lot of effort: without them, it will become much easier and it will be easier to direct it to the right place.

The algorithm for installing a double-glazed window in the opening of a wooden house:

• inserting the structure into the pigtail, insert wood chips 2 centimeters thick under the lower frame;
• using the water level, determine the quality of the installation;
• achieve the desired indicator by laying additional chips;
• align the frame vertically with the same pieces of wood;
• having determined the most optimal position, fix the frame on the pigtail with self-tapping screws, inserting them into the holes on the mounting plates.

When screwing in each self-tapping screw, do not hit the crest of the log against which the pigtail rests. To avoid loosening the self-tapping screw, screw it in slightly at an angle.

After fixing the frame, foam it along the contour only after hanging the sashes - they will prevent it from deflecting under the pressure of the hardening mounting foam. If the sashes are not installed before this, then later there will be problems with the movement of the vents, even in a perfectly installed frame.

At the end of the frame alignment horizontally and vertically, a gap of 2 cm thick should remain on each side of the entire structure - for foam filling. The height of the distance between the top panel of the pigtail and the first log is not less than 5 and not more than 15 cm - the gap will prevent wood pressure on the windows after shrinkage of the log house.

Before pouring the foam, a control check of the correct installation of the entire structure is necessary. They are guided by the “behavior” of the open sash: it should not go further on its own than it was opened, or try to return back, obeying its own weight, and not you.

Here is such a short educational program turned out on the topic of installing a plastic double-glazed window in a wooden house. I hope that my advice will help you in your noble and exciting work.

Self installation

I wanted to put plastic windows in my country wooden house. Everything that will be described below is a verbal summary of my experience in self-assembly double-glazed windows in a house from a bar.

Why did I decide to do my own window installation?

There are several reasons:

• for installation, you will have to pay up to 50% of the cost of the window itself (you can buy a third one for the saved money for 2 installed on your own);
• almost all companies that provide window installation services in wooden houses do not give any guarantees for their work;
• no need to pay for a service that any owner is able to provide to himself for 2 hours of work.

In order for the installation result to please for many years, you need to follow the step-by-step algorithm of actions recommended below.

Removing old windows

Regardless of who will install brand new double-glazed windows in a wooden building - you or invited workers - installation of new structures is permissible only on a rigid foundation. I was lucky: in our house, window frames were changed a couple of years ago, so the wood turned out to be flawless. That is, I did not find any wormholes, rot, cracks, dents and chips on it. Therefore, when ordering double-glazed windows, I indicated the dimensions of the new windows, taking into account that the boxes will remain. If, in your case, the condition of the frames turns out to be not very good, but thrift will not allow you to throw them away, then the dismantled can be put into a mini-greenhouse as a basis.

Not sure how good and bad the boxes under your windows are? All the same, do not allow yourself or your employees to break them out “with meat”. You can always use firewood. The same applies to glasses: there is no certainty that they will not crack during dismantling, so take them out first - there will also be a use for them. I was lucky again: the frames were still strong, so the structures were taken out without removing the glass.

How to prepare a place

Go around the entire perimeter of the frame with a dry brush or a clean rag to sweep away everything left after dismantling.

Window sill installation

First on permanent place determine plastic window sill , which is "imputed" to serve as the basis for the rest of the structure. Hence the “legs grow” of the requirement to install it perfectly evenly and horizontally. To determine how correctly it is installed in a vertical and horizontal position, the usual building level will help. To adjust its location, taking into account the level readings, use chopped strips of plastic or slivers (the latter only if they have been treated with an antiseptic). For the stability of the window sill, make a notch on each side of the box, going deep into the wood by 8 millimeters.

Fix the window sill with self-tapping screws, screwing it to the bottom of the window frame. Fasteners are placed with a two-centimeter indent from the outer end of the window sill and with a mandatory substrate for each washer. It will not allow the self-tapping screw to break through the canvas, if you overdo it when tightening the fasteners. Do not worry that the fasteners will spoil the overall impression - they simply will not be visible.

How to prepare a double glazing

Recommend before you start installation work put the pen. But the film can be removed later - so there is less chance of leaving unattractive stripes on the plastic surface. You need to tear off the adhesive strip only at the place where the handle is installed. When placing the lever on the sash, hold it with the long part parallel to the window sill.

After installing the window, this position of the handle will correspond to the mode of opening the entire sash towards itself. When moving the handle end down, the sash will be locked, up - only the narrow upper part of the window can completely move away from the frame panel.

Having fixed the handle on the panel with a pair of bolts, you need to turn it end down. On the side racks, mark out the holes for the fasteners with which the window will be held within the frame.

Window installation

We put the assembled structure in the opening, making sure that from both vertical edges the intermediate distance from the frame to the sides of the double-glazed window is the same (about a centimeter). At the same time, remember that the horizontal direction is set by the window sill previously fixed in the correct position. If it is inconvenient to use the level due to the presence of decor on the outside of the wall, then use a plumb line.

While the person helping you will hold the frame, you must wedge a centimeter-wide spacer bar between the box and the window frame. Their presence is necessary for the stability of the fixed structure at the moment of connection of the double-glazed window with the frame with self-tapping screws. If you are too lazy or forget about the bars, you can provoke the window to go to the side in the process of fixing. As a result, then the sash will be difficult to open and close.

After wedging the bars and placing the double-glazed window strictly according to the level indicators, fix the inserted structure in the box with self-tapping screws, not forgetting to screw them on each of the four sides.

When introducing a self-tapping screw, you need to ensure that its location takes place in the free space between the window and the box itself.

Then, during periods when the house “walks” under the influence of climatic influences and seasonal shifts, the windows in it will not warp.

Installing a window in a wooden house using a self-expanding tape in the video:

How to install double-glazed windows in a wooden building?

First, take care of maintaining the patency of the drain holes - install adjusting plates between them, which will prevent condensation from accumulating from the window. Then insert the double-glazed window into the opening of the box so that there is free space around the entire perimeter between the two structures. It is necessary to maintain the integrity of the glass in the frame when the box will lead in the spring or winter after the house.

In the case of a tight fit of the double-glazed window to the box (minimum gap of 5 mm), file a claim with the manufacturer of the structure. A decent contractor in response should offer an appropriate solution to the problem.

After inserting the double-glazed window into the box and aligning the first on four sides with respect to the last, fix its location with plastic glazing beads with profile spikes. These "spiky" strips are very easy to install: it is enough to advance them with small taps into the openings. When the spikes of the glazing bead reach the grooves, you will hear a characteristic click.

Having achieved a fixed and correct placement of the double-glazed window in the box, fill the voids between these two structures with mounting foam, processing the cracks from the inside and outside.

Remove any hardened excess with a pruning knife.

After making sure that the work has been carried out correctly: the grooves are closed, the wings move only under the pressure of your hands, you can proceed with the installation of additional fittings, platbands and drainage systems.

Safe Installation Rules

All the difficulties with installing windows in wooden houses have one root: the instability of wooden structures throughout the entire operational period. Without taking into account this factor in the process of installing plastic structures, even window or door, it is quite possible to find yourself in a situation where the new “carpentry” fails without even a year of work.

How are wooden houses different from others? Wood loses a lot of moisture in the first years after the construction of the log house. A year, as some say, is not enough for the final drying process. In the best case, the walls of the house will take the final size in the sixth year after their construction. But in some regions, the process of "walking" houses never ends.

On average, the height of the wall can decrease by 4-5 cm. And what will happen to the double-glazed window, which was installed in the box in such a way that there were only 2-2.5 cm between the sides of these structures? Do the owners of wooden houses need to forget about the dreams of plastic windows? Of course not. You just need to follow a number of technical recommendations.

First: do not neglect the casing. It is also called a pigtail. Thanks to it, any windows gain independence from the impact, within reasonable limits, of the bearing walls of the building. Whether they shrink or acquire some curvature, this will not affect the integrity and functionality of the window.

Are common specifications casing:

• protect the logs from moving away from the vertical in the area of ​​the window opening;
• does not resist vertical shrinkage of the wall;
• takes over all the loads;
• contributes to the strength of the wall in the zone of the window opening.

What is a siege? The most common option is to make square vertical grooves with a side of 5 cm at the ends of the logs and then seal them with bars of the same size. But such processing of the walls around the opening is only suitable for preparing a place for wooden windows. To prepare an opening for plastic double-glazed windows at the ends of the logs, you need to make a comb, and then install a window carriage with a groove on it. The presence of a ridge and a groove will ensure that the logs slide without harming the window frame.

What is a window carriage? This vertical bars with parameters 15x10 cm, with notches at the edges. The depth of the cuts is 5x5 cm, they are made for inserting jumpers crowned with spikes at the ends in the form of boards 15x5 cm.

The assembled casing is 7-8 centimeters below the window opening. Such a gap is left due to the possible shrinkage of the wall. When the pigtail is assembled in the opening, it is then covered with rolled tow, and gun carriages are stuffed on top. After such a procedure, neither squeaks from shrinkage, nor drafts from under the window are terrible.

Then you need to make a lower jumper and also fill the gun carriages on the comb with tow. Insert the upper jumper into the hole from above, and then lower it into the groove. Then reinforce the structure with self-tapping screws, making sure that they do not touch the ridge - this is important for maintaining the relative freedom of the resulting structure. After all the gaps found between the pigtail and the walls must be filled with tow.

Metal-plastic double-glazed windows can also be inserted into such a design, without fear that they will jam when the house shrinks. When installing, do not forget that noise, heat, and vapor barrier also need to be taken care of.

The gap between the log house and the casing made must be filled with thin planks with wound tow fibers.

When the house begins to shrink noticeably, knock out the planks to replace them with new ones. To facilitate this process, I strongly recommend attaching the upper casing only to the casing. It will take - carefully remove it, change the filling, fix it in place.

When I taught seminars, I often encountered bewilderment about the need for a window fitter to understand the technology of building wooden buildings. And what is strange about this? Without this, the installer will not be able to install the window in such a way that it will serve for years without any complaints. In other cases, you can not do without casing.

If you are hired to install plastic double-glazed windows in wooden house, find out the presence of casing. If it is not there, and instead of a pigtail there will be a box of an old window, tell the owner that he has two ways. Either he agrees to modernize the window opening for casing and windows smaller than planned, or the person will receive windows in old frames without casing, but without your guarantee for a quality result. Since even old wooden houses are always “walking” and resisting this, or rather, this factor should always be taken into account when installing windows. And do not forget to indicate in the contract that you disclaim any responsibility for the future life of the windows.

We put plastic double-glazed windows in a private house

Remember: all wooden structures shrink. And this fact must always be taken into account when installing plastic double-glazed windows in a log house.

The strongest shrinkage processes of wood occur in the first two years after the completion of the construction of the log house. Each meter of masonry shrinks by 1.5 cm. And this is a very large value to ignore when equipping a wooden house with plastic windows.

Why do they do a squabble?

The durability of the operation of the plastic window and the level of comfort during use depend on how professionally the casing is carried out. It provides the window with a safe position during the period when the house is once again slightly deformed due to fluctuations under the influence of changes in humidity or temperature.

What is a siege? This is a box made of thick boards. It is inserted into the window opening, fixed according to a certain technology, and only then they are engaged in the installation of PVC double-glazed windows. The box itself is held inside the opening with the help of side grooves.

In the process, one cannot rely on the technical qualities of mounting foam, other fixing methods.

Between the structure and the upper lintel of the window opening, a gap must be left, the value of which should be greater than the expected shrinkage of the wooden wall.

How to make a pigtail:

• tab wooden beams into specially made grooves (then screws will be screwed into the bars);
• sawing spikes on the edges of logs in the window opening and forming grooves in the sides of the box (experts call this technique “into a deck”);
• spikes are made in the sides of the structure, the ends of the logs of the window opening are equipped with grooves.

The nuances of preparing a window opening

Do not be intimidated by the work of installing plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden building. If you follow the correct algorithm, you can insert with your own hands modern window in a log house of any age.

First of all, determine the distance to the window from the floor. Most convenient option if the window sill is slightly higher than the horizontal plane of your desk. If there is none nearby, then be guided by a distance of 80-90 cm.

The lower, upper boundary of the window opening is determined using the water level. The top line should run 13 +1.5 cm above the upper border of the double-glazed window, the difference on the sides should be 12-14 +1.5 cm. Leave one and a half centimeters of allowance for sealing cracks with building foam.

Having decided on the size of the opening, take measurements for the future window. Observe the utmost accuracy both when installing the casing and when taking parameters for the design of the double-glazed window itself. Quality measurement is one of the most important nuances, affecting the quality of all subsequent work on the installation of a double-glazed window in a window opening.

After bringing the opening to the desired condition, start studding the ends of the logs facing the window. The draft window is trimmed with jute from the sides and bottom. Do the casing only from well-dried wood, sawn into bars. Make connections with self-tapping screws, and cover the convergence points with sealant at the joints. Fill the gaps in the pigtail with tow.

See the video for casing and pigtail when installing PVC windows in a wooden house:

Installation nuances

Ready metal-plastic construction placed after ideally pulling out in the foreground or deepening into the wall. The main product is fixed with self-tapping screws, screwing them into specially prepared grooves.

It is permissible to install a house in an ordinary wooden, but not from a bar, plastic window any configuration, if you know how to properly fit, take measurements and select the appropriate fittings.

When picking up tools and other material, do not take self-tapping screws longer than 12 cm. Such “stings” will definitely go behind the pigtail and dig into the main building, which is unacceptable given the mobility of a wooden house.

For waterproofing the external joint, you can use an acrylic sealant without additional components in the composition, a sealing tape that self-expands after being placed in place, or a conventional vapor-permeable one. Such protection will extend the life of the mounting foam and prevent the formation of drafts.

A vapor barrier tape is placed along the inner seam, fixing it with a special glue. And only then they process the seam with mounting foam.

An integral attribute in the construction of a house are windows, which can be made of wood, metal structures and various kinds of polymers. Despite the fact that the process of installing windows in a log house seems simple, it can bring a lot of grief if you do not take into account certain patterns when working with wood products.

An integral attribute in the construction of a house are windows, which can be made of wood, metal structures and various kinds of polymers. Despite the fact that the process seems simple, it can bring a lot of grief if you do not take into account certain patterns when working with wood products. The principle here is the same and it does not matter what the house is made of, from a log or a bar. In both cases, a casing bar is placed in the window opening.

Mark the window opening with a plumb line. In this case, a simple building level not enough. For sawing a window opening, it is better to use a chain saw, which is now a large selection in specialty stores. Cut an opening to size with a saw so that the hole captures at least half of the upper and lower logs in the log house.

Using a chain or circular saw, or even better a milling cutter, select a groove 50mm wide and 50mm deep at the end of the wall. With a chisel and a chisel, manually clean the ends of the groove and nail the bar 50mm. It is important to take into account the humidity of the log house. Whether it is a fresh log house or already stood-shut down. In the presence of a log house made of fresh wood, the length of the bar should be 5 cm less than the length of the groove. In case the log house has shrunken by 2 cm.

Take wide board, 50mm wide and nail to the bar. The width of the board should correspond to the thickness of the log in the log house. Nail the boards to the top and bottom logs to form the window opening. It is better to use special nails for this, which are then drowned and the holes can be processed with putty.

For the accuracy of determining the angles, use a square when installing the window frame. Set the window to mounting foam. Using a sheathing board, close the window from the outside around the perimeter. From the inside, close the layout. Sheathe the window opening with a board. Nail the board only to the lower log so that it does not create obstacles when the log house shrinks.

Mount the window on self-tapping screws and mounting foam. Mounting foam is best chosen in relation to weather conditions. It must be remembered that ultraviolet rays have a destructive effect on the mounting foam. Be sure to impregnate all wooden components with an antiseptic, which is sold in a wide range in construction stores. Adhering to this technology and order, you will independently cope with this seemingly difficult task.

in a wooden house

Currently, more and more PVC windows are installed in wooden buildings- It does not make sense to install ordinary wooden windows in log buildings, which have extremely low thermal insulation properties. Specialists who deal with the problems of applying new construction technologies agree in one opinion - the use of modern heat-saving structures will be much more practical.

Plastic windows consist of several key elements:
plastic frame from PVC profile;
sealed double-glazed window with two sealing contours between the sashes and the frame;
fittings, thanks to which the inhabitants of the house have the ability to close and open the window.

It is extremely important that the installation of all these components takes place in compliance with the technological process - the installation of plastic windows in wooden houses has a number of features that are not taken into account by all specialized companies. At the same time, improper installation will have an extremely negative impact on the duration of the operation of the structure, therefore it is worth considering step by step how this process should be carried out.

In the first year after the construction of the house, due to the shrinkage of the tree, the log house settles quite noticeably, sometimes losing up to ten percent of the height, because PVC windows cannot be installed directly into the openings. A drying log will put pressure on the profile, which can not only make it difficult to open it, but also damage the frame - and the owner of the house will need urgent window repairs.

To prevent such an unpleasant incident, the window is installed in a “casing” or “pit” - that is, it is assembled from a bar special frame compensating for shrinkage of house walls. The frame ensures unhindered vertical movement of window blocks and enhances the strength of the entire building. Casing boxes are attached to the walls not rigidly, but through sliding bars. Therefore, it is necessary to pre-arrange vertical grooves in window openings.

Unfortunately, only a small number of organizations pay attention to this item during work, which means the inevitable repair of windows in the near future - unless the owner himself monitors the installation of the “pigtail”.

In addition, false covers should be used to give the windows a traditional look. They are a thin decorative profile glued on both sides of the glass.

Wooden windows in a wooden house: installation rules

Most people cannot imagine wooden country houses without wooden windows. They warm the room and the soul, do not disturb the favorable microclimate in the house, and harmonize with nature. But the most important thing (if the windows are installed in accordance with all the rules) is the “tree-tree” principle: when the house shrinks, the structures of walls and windows behave the same way. The main thing to remember is that the installation of windows in a wooden house is significantly different from the installation of windows in houses built using any other technology.

Theory
When installing windows in a wooden house, the main features should be taken into account natural material- drying out of wood and shrinkage of house structures. In houses made of rounded or chopped logs, solid planed or profiled timber in the first 3–5 years, shrinkage can reach from 6 to 15% of the height of the building. In houses made of glued laminated timber, shrinkage is much less - only up to 2%, but this will inevitably affect the integrity of windows and doors if they are installed in the usual way. If the window structures were deformed, the sashes became tight (or completely stopped) to come off and close, the double-glazed window cracked, intervention gaps formed in the walls, which means that the windows were installed in violation of the technology. To prevent this from happening, several rules should be observed.

Rule #1
In chopped houses, houses made of logs, planed or profiled timber, it is better to install window (and door) carriages after the house has given the main shrinkage, that is, after 1–1.5 years. It is not recommended to install windows and doors immediately after assembling the log house, since in this case it is impossible to calculate the shrinkage of wall structures. The amount of shrinkage depends on the moisture content of the wood: the higher it is, the greater the shrinkage of the house.

In houses made of glued laminated timber, windows and doors can be installed immediately after the assembly of wall structures and roofing. In such houses, the percentage of shrinkage is easier to calculate.

Rule #2
It is possible to install windows and doors in any wooden houses only using sliding joints (the so-called casing boards or casing and sliding bars). Fastening window blocks and casing to logs or timber is unacceptable! Rigid fastening during shrinkage will certainly lead to deformation of the window (door) and wall structures of the house. In fact, window structures should move separately from the walls. To do this, cuts 50x50 mm in size are made in the window opening at the ends of the logs (or timber), the so-called slip bar is inserted. A casing board (or box) is attached to this bar on tow or a tape seal (for example, from jute), and a window block is already attached to it. In this case, the screws with which the window block is attached must be screwed into the sliding bar (but not through). This technology will allow the walls to settle freely, without putting pressure on the window structures and without deforming them. Doors are installed in the same way.

Rule #3
From above, above the boxes of windows (doors), a margin for shrinkage is needed - gaps of about 6-7 cm in size. They are also filled with insulation (for example, tow). By the way, incorrectly calculated gaps very often cause windows and doors that do not close, and logs or timber hanging over the boxes lead to the formation of cracks in the walls between the crowns.

Rule #4
Platbands (both on the inside and on the outside) should be fastened with nails to the casing board, and not to the wall of the house. And finally, different companies provide a guarantee for the installation of windows for a period of one to five years. Be careful: according to the requirements of GOST, the guarantee must be at least three years.

1. If the grooves for the slide bar were not made at the factory, then, before making a cut, guide bars are installed. With the help of special equipment, grooves are cut exactly in the center.

2. A sliding bar is driven into the groove. At the same time, it is necessary to leave gaps for shrinkage of the walls above and below.

3. Before installing the casing boards, a heater is laid between the end of the log and the casing board (in this case, tape insulation made of jute).

4. Casing boards are fixed with nails into the slip block. Important: the nail must enter strictly into the sliding bar, without entering the end of the log!

5. The upper casing board is installed and fastened so that a gap of about 6-7 cm remains between the upper casing board and the log, so that when the walls shrink, the upper log does not press on the casing salary.

6. A window block is installed in the casing.

7. The space between the casing and the vapor barrier film around the entire perimeter of the window is filled with mounting foam. The distance between the upper casing board and the log is filled with insulation and covered with a casing.

8. Platbands are attached strictly to the casing salary. It is impossible to drive nails into log walls, this will interfere with the natural shrinkage of the walls, which will lead to deformation of the architraves. When the house shrinks, the casing must move along with the casing and the window structure, regardless of the walls of the house.

9. Install metal ebbs.

10. After installing the tides, the lower element of the casing is fixed.

11. The window is ready.

Do-it-yourself window repair and painting

There are no trifles in repairs, because every detail eventually adds up to a common whole, on which depends how the apartment will look after the repair is completed. An important stage is the repair of windows and painting windows with your own hands. Let's take a closer look at the window painting process. This type of work requires tangible financial and labor costs, but the result, with due diligence, will please the eye!

When repairing windows yourself, you must follow certain steps. There are five steps in total:
removal from window surfaces old paint;
surface grinding window profiles;
putty windows;
priming window surfaces for subsequent painting;
window painting.

Compliance with all these steps will allow you to get an excellent result. You should not skip any of these stages, since each of them is important in its own way and, to one degree or another, affects the final result. To appreciate the importance of each of the stages and understand the subtleties, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with them in more detail.

Stage 1. Removing old paint from window surfaces
When repairing windows on your own This stage is the most significant and time-consuming. It can take a long time to remove the old paintwork, but it must be done. Moreover, it should be done carefully, and not anyhow. To do this, you may need a set of the most different instruments from abrasive paper to sophisticated electrical equipment. The method of removing old paint depends on its type, there are three options in total: mechanical method, chemical method and thermal removal.

The mechanical method involves the use of so-called "cleaning" attachments for orbital and straight grinders, as well as angle grinders (angle grinders). This method is the most economical and fastest of all. The only negative is the fine dust that appears during the work. But if the tool is equipped with dust extraction systems and dust collectors, this problem won't be as sharp.

The chemical method is reduced to the use of special compounds based on strong acids or trinitrochloromethane.
The thermal method is perfect for living quarters. Building hair dryers are used to remove the paintwork. This method is quite expensive.

Stage 2. Grinding the surfaces of window profiles
After completion of the first stage, there may be residual defects on the window surfaces. As a rule, these are small pieces of old paint that could not be removed. On wooden structures"pile" of wood fibers may also appear. And of course, that these defects must be removed, this can be done using final grinding. Thanks to grinding, the surfaces of window profiles become smooth, which has a positive effect on the service life of the paintwork.

Stage 3. Puttying windows
On this stage Self-repair of windows is carried out by puttying surfaces. This process allows you to get an almost even surface to be finished, to hide visible defects. Before starting work, it is necessary to remove dirt and putty an already clean surface. After the putty has completely dried, wipe off the excess with a fine-grained mesh or abrasive paper.

Stage 4. Priming of window surfaces
The penultimate stage of do-it-yourself window repair is the priming of surfaces. This is done so that the new paintwork fits well on the surface of the window. Please note that before starting the primer, it is necessary to degrease and clean the surfaces.

Stage 5. Painting the window
The final stage of window repair is the application of a new paintwork. The paint should be distributed evenly, painting can be done with, or using a spray gun. When performing self-repair of windows, do not forget that the paint should be applied in 2-3 layers. Before applying the next layer, you must wait until the previous layer dries well.

As you can see, do-it-yourself window repair has a number of features, requires certain skills and a large number time, so we recommend enlisting the help of professionals. Processed

Installing windows in a wooden house is significantly different from installing windows in brick and stone houses. For example, the openings of buildings made of logs and timber, as a rule, have a quarter, but not from the inside, but from the outside.

Shrinkage

But the most important difference between houses made of wood (does not apply to frame-panel houses) is the ability to shrink as a result of drying of the wall material (logs, timber). And this moment is decisive in the installation of plastic windows in a wooden house, because if you install a window, as usual, in a bare opening, it will inevitably be crushed and deformed by the shrinkage process.

There is an opinion that the first two are the most active period of wood drying. But it's not. After the construction of the house, the shrinkage of the walls continues for decades. But that is not all. The tree not only gives off moisture, but also absorbs. Therefore, rigid fastening when installing windows in a wooden house is impossible in principle!

• Shrinkage in a log house - about 10 - 15 mm per log D = 250-300 mm
• Shrinkage in a house made of timber - about 7 - 10 mm per one timber with a section of 150x150 mm
• Glued laminated timber - unknown.

There are other ways to calculate the shrinkage height of log cabins as a percentage: about 10-15% of the original height. But in fact, the shrinkage of houses made of timber and logs depends on many factors:

• from the material (log, rounded log, timber, glued timber);
• from the time of harvesting the material (winter harvesting or summer harvesting);
• from time of day(morning, evening) Yes-Yes!!! Don't be surprised - explored this too!
• from where the forest grew (marsh, field);on the degree of resinousness and density of the tree;
• on the dimensions of the material - both its length and thickness;
• from the moisture content of the material;
• on the size of the building;on construction technology (nagel, type of felling, etc.);
• from the material of interventional insulation;from the type of wood;
• from the time of year when construction is underway.

The strongest shrinkage occurs in log cabins from ordinary logs, then rounded logs, profiled timber, timber, glued timber go down.
Even if the house is more than a dozen years old, it is still necessary when installing windows in a wooden house to take into account the vertical movements of the walls as a result of an increase or decrease in humidity and air temperature in different times of the year.

Wooden house - Live

A wooden house is a constantly moving structure, compared to buildings made of stone and concrete. Therefore, the installation of windows in a wooden house is not carried out in the opening itself, but in a special wooden box acting as a link between the window and the wall. They call this box differently: casing, salary, deck, pigtail, linden.

As can be seen from the photo, the casing is an ordinary window frame made of four, sometimes three (sides and top) thick boards, installed inside the opening.

The meaning of this design lies in the fact that it is independent of the vertical movements of the wall and moves freely in the opening, since it is not attached to the logs (timber) with nails, self-tapping screws, or other fasteners, but is held with the help of grooves in the side posts, mounted on spikes at the ends of the logs. Even foam is not used to seal the gaps around the pigtails - only tow, jute (lnovatin) and other soft insulation.

Shrinkage clearance

Please note: a large gap is specially left above the pigtail, the size of which is designed for the maximum possible shrinkage of logs (beams). During the first years after the construction of the house, this compensation gap will gradually decrease to a minimum, but the upper log (beam) of the opening, with the correct calculation, will not press down or deform the pigtail. Thus, the shrinkage of the house will not affect the size and shape of the pigtail in any way, and, accordingly, will not damage the plastic window inside it.

Shrink gap size

If you decide to install windows in an old wooden house, which has long gone through the shrinkage process, then, disassembling window blocks, you will surely notice: they are made according to the same principle as the casing design described here, i.e. not nailed to the beams of the opening, but fixed in it using a simple "groove-thorn" system on the sides.

This suggests that the technology for installing windows and doors in a wooden house in a pigtail was invented a very long time ago, and is used with success to this day. We will not invent anything new and will go the same way.

There are several ways to install a pigtail (for more details, follow the link):

• t-shaped pigtail - a groove is made at the ends of the opening logs, a t-shaped profile is laid into it;
• p-shaped - the spike is cut out at the ends of the opening logs, and the groove is made in the side posts of the casing).

We make both options, as they determine the maximum strength and stability of the opening, because the pigtail not only protects the window from shrinkage of the walls, but also ensures the stability of the wall at the place where the opening is cut.

Briefly, the sequence of our actions will be as follows:we cut an opening in the wall, the dimensions of which slightly exceed the dimensions of the inserted plastic window;

We form a groove for a T-shaped pigtail;

We form a spike for a p-shaped pigtail;

We make pigtail parts;

We install the pigtail in the finished opening;

We install a window in a wooden house in a pigtail, aligning it flush along the front edge, (we fasten it with self-tapping screws of such a length that they do not pierce the pigtail through and enter the logs (beam);

We blow out the gap between the frame of the plastic window and the window with foam, not forgetting about the waterproofing device (outside) and vapor barrier (inside - suitable for a draft window for sheathing, for finishing it is not required, since the window rests on a quarter) foam seam;

we install external platbands (we fasten to the casing);

we carry out the interior decoration of the window (window sill, slopes - it is not required when finishing the pigtail, since it is the slopes and the window sill).

We use foam only inside the pigtails. We insulate the gaps around it with traditional flax fiber or jute linen.

For the next 5 years (if the house is freshly built), we will have to periodically remove the trim and gradually reduce the amount of insulation invested there. If this is not done, then the upper parts may bend.

Even after complete shrinkage of the house, the gaps around the casing should never be sealed with foam.

Preparing the opening for installing a window in a wooden house

Before sawing, we mark the window opening with the help of a level, because the plastic window will be installed strictly according to the level in all planes, therefore the pigtail should also be installed in the opening as accurately as possible in the initial level.

The lower crown in the opening must be sawn through, so that a flat horizontal platform is obtained.

The dimensions of the opening are determined based on the dimensions of the plastic window, the thickness of the casing bars and the size of the required gaps.

All calculations are performed visually. Here is an example of a scheme for calculating the dimensions of an opening for a draft T-shaped pigtail:

Accordingly, we take a bar with a section of 100x150 mm and cut out a T-shaped profile.

Here is a scheme for calculating the details of a finishing p-type pigtail:

For a p-shaped pigtail, we cut out a p-shaped profile from a solid bar.

The size of the shrinkage gap (H shrink) is not easy to determine, since the amount of shrinkage at home, as mentioned above, depends on many factors. If we, for example, calculate roughly, taking everything to the maximum, then for the window standard height 1400mm (plus the thickness of the casing bars, plus mounting clearances ~ 245mm) with 15% shrinkage, the top clearance will be 24.5cm - a huge hole, which will most likely end up being unnecessarily large in the end.

To simplify the task and avoid mistakes, you should not rack your brains over GOSTs that regulate the shrinkage values ​​​​of building materials of various tree species, comparing this with local climatic conditions, etc.
You can do it easier, namely:

If you are building new house, then start installing windows in it no earlier than a year after the construction of the log house in order to wait out the period of the most active shrinkage. Then, during the manufacture and installation of the pigtail, the size of the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) can be safely made 60-50 mm for a log house, 50-40 mm for a log house and 40 mm for a house made of glued beams;

If your house has stood for more than five years, then the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) can be made minimal - 40 millimeters, only to compensate for possible seasonal changes in the geometric dimensions of the opening;

So, we calculated the size of the opening, marked it out and cut it out. Now you need to cut a spike at the ends of the logs (beams) on the sides of the opening. The spike is also marked with a level in the center of the log (beam).

We make the size of the spike 60 mm - width and 40 mm height.

We sew the side and lower part of the opening with linen or jute using a stapler.

Making pigtails

First, you need to decide on the width of the pigtail bars: it should either be equal to the thickness of the wall, or be slightly larger, so that later, when installing the outer trim, they (platbands) fit tightly on the pigtail, and not on the wall. There is another option in a log house - a patch around the opening along the width of the groove.

Secondly, for the manufacture of pigtails, it is necessary to take well-dried material, otherwise the assembled structure itself will deform soon when it dries.

First we cut out the lower part (window sill), making it 10 cm longer than the width of the opening. At the ends of the window sill, we cut a groove for a spike 65 mm wide and 40 mm deep.

Also, at the ends of both window sills, we make small recesses of 20 mm each for joining the crossbars with the side posts - the so-called locks.

We make side racks with a height exceeding the height of the plastic window frame by 70 mm. On the reverse sides of the racks, using a circular saw, we cut a groove for a spike 60 mm wide and 40 mm deep. We immediately make a lock for the upper part in the side racks.

Lastly, we make the upper part of the pigtail. Based on the dimensions obtained between the two installed side parts.

Installing a pigtail

We start installing the pigtail in the opening from the bottom crossbar (window sill). Then, an apex is inserted into the opening, under which we alternately substitute the side racks, putting them in grooves on the spikes.

We fasten the pigtail elements together with self-tapping screws and, if desired (not necessary), coat the joints with sealant. We caulk the gaps around the casing with ordinary tow, but without much fanaticism, so that the details do not arch out.

We plug the upper shrinkage gap with soft insulation such as Rocwool or holofiber. This operation is best done after installing windows and external trim. Read more in the article ""

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Now you can start installing the window.

Installing a window in a wooden house

We install a wooden or plastic window by aligning it with the front edge of the pigtail. Bring the window inward by a third of the thickness of the wall, as is done in a panel or brick house, there is no need here due to the lower coefficient of thermal conductivity of wood (smaller freezing depth).

Especially with the small thickness of the walls of a wooden house, deepening the window into the opening, we will be forced to cut the already narrow window sill. And the ledge that is formed as a result from the outside of the opening will have to be additionally closed and sealed. And as measurements taken by a thermal imager show, the main conductor of cold is the profile itself. For more details in the photo report made from photographs from the thermal imager, see here.

Black box for trim

If you calculated the dimensions of the opening and the pigtails as described above, then the mounting gaps around the window frame when installed in a wooden house should be 15 mm on the sides, 15 mm on top and 15 mm on the bottom (we do not make the lower gap more, because the stand profile makes it possible later, put a plastic window sill under the frame, the thickness of which is 30 mm).

It is more convenient to fasten the frame to the pigtail with the help of self-tapping screws the size of such calculations so that they enter the body of the pigtail, but do not penetrate the wall. We drill holes in the frame with a drill with a diameter of 5-6 mm. Using self-tapping screws with a length exceeding the thickness of the pigtail is dangerous because they will pass through the pigtail and screw into the logs (bar), which is unacceptable.

Provided that all the preparatory work has been done using the level, the window frame should stand exactly on the pigtail, i.e. the front edge of the pigtail should be parallel to the plane of the window, without noticeable distortions.

Window waterproofing from the outside

Before foaming the gap between the window and the pigtail, it is necessary to decide with what material we will waterproof the installation seam from the street side. As you know, the two main enemies of foam are sunlight and water. If we can simply close the mounting seam from the sun with platbands or flashings, then the situation with waterproofing is more complicated, because it must meet two basic conditions: do not let water in and at the same time not prevent moisture vapor from escaping from the inside to the outside. Well, and, of course, waterproofing must be resistant to prolonged weathering.

All these conditions are met by such materials as PSUL, waterproofing vapor-permeable tape and special sealant "STIZ-A".
Sealant "STIZ-A" - one-component vapor-permeable acrylic sealant white color for sealing the outer layer - it is characterized by good adhesion to the main building materials: plastic, concrete, polymer concrete, foam concrete, plaster, brick and wood including.

It is also resistant to UV irradiation, precipitation, thermal deformation and can be applied even at negative temperature up to -20 degrees. The only disadvantage of this material is that it is difficult to find it in small containers, and it makes sense to buy a whole bucket when you install a lot of windows. If you choose as outdoor waterproofing"STIZ-A", then the procedure will be as follows: first we foam the window, then, after complete drying, cut off the foam sticking out from the outside and after that, using a spatula, apply sealant to the cut.

Vapor-permeable waterproofing tape (self-adhesive butyl rubber tape consisting of a vapor-diffusion membrane with an adhesive layer of sealant on one or both sides) is sold in rolls of different widths. In our case, a tape with a width of 70 mm is suitable. When using this tape as waterproofing, orient it correctly when gluing.

You can determine this by blowing into it from one side and the other (do not forget to remove the paper first). Since there is a membrane inside the tape, the passage of air is only possible in one direction. The side from which it is impossible to "blow through" the tape is the outer (street).

The sequence of actions (first the tape, then the foam or first the foam, then the tape) does not matter much, but it must be taken into account that the foam, expanding when it dries, not only pulls the tape with a bubble (it will interfere later when installing the trim), but in general it can tear it away from a window or window frame.

Therefore, if you stick the tape in the first place, then immediately screw the trim or hard flashings on top of it, and only then foam it. Or foam first, wait for the foam to dry, cut off the excess and stick the tape on the same day so as not to expose the foam cut to prolonged weathering.

PSUL - pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape (similar to foam rubber), impregnated with a special composition, due to which it is waterproof and vapor-permeable. Supplied in a compressed state, rolled into rollers.

If you opt for PSUL tape, then buy the one that expands more than 30 mm. PSUL will have to be glued not to the outer side of the frame profile, but to the end near the front edge. This should be done after fixing the frame in the opening, but before foaming. Of course, it is more convenient to glue the frame with PSUL-ohm even before installation, when it lies on the floor, but then the installation will have to be done at an accelerated pace, because after a few minutes the tape will expand and interfere with work.

The assembly seam should be foamed only after the PSUL has fully expanded and blocked the assembly gap. But here the same problem is quite possible as with the waterproofing tape: the foam expanding when it dries can squeeze the PSUL out. This can be avoided by pressing the PSUL from the street side with platbands or flashings.

Internal window vapor barrier

WITH inside the foam should also not be left open to prevent moisture from entering it from the room air. For the device of internal vapor barrier, you can use a vapor barrier tape, which has already been described in the main section of this site, or use acrylic sealant SAZILAST-11 ("STIZ-B").

The vapor barrier tape is glued to the end of the frame with a thin adhesive strip before foaming. Immediately after foaming, the protective paper is removed from the wide adhesive strip, and the tape is glued to the pigtail. While the foam under the tape has not hardened, it is advisable to immediately install the window sill and screw the starting profile to the edges of the frame, otherwise the tape "inflated" with foam will interfere with this later.

Sazilast is applied to the hardened foam, more precisely, to its cut. In this case, it is no longer necessary to rush to install window sills and the starting profile, as when using a tape. Nothing will stop you from doing it later, when it's convenient.

Interior decoration

The interior decoration of a window in a wooden house (window sills, slopes) is not much different from the decoration in a panel or brick house. It’s even a little simpler here: you don’t need to drill holes for installing slopes - we fix everything with self-tapping screws into a tree (into a pigtail).

It is also not required to additionally insulate the slopes from the inside with foam or other material. To be safe, it is enough to foam before installing the slopes inner surface casing in a narrow strip next to the assembly seam. This will be enough, because the tree does not freeze through as deeply as concrete or brick.

Okosyachka as - window sill and slopes

This method of installing a window in a wooden house allows you to save on slopes and window sills, gain time and achieve a greater, in my opinion, aesthetic effect, but this will require a good woodworking machine to evenly cut the so-called reverse quarter on the casing elements, into which install a plastic window.

What is a reverse quarter can be easily understood from the figure. This is the recess in which the window frame will be installed from the street side. Quarter depth - 20 mm. The width is made exactly corresponding to the thickness of the frame, for example: for a 5-chamber VEKA, the profile thickness is 70 mm, therefore the width of the back quarter should be 70 mm.

It is important to accurately calculate the dimensions of the pigtail and window, carefully assemble the pigtail and install the pigtail into the opening exactly according to the level - the inner clearance should have the shape of a regular rectangle, and all faces of the outer edge should be located in the same plane without skew. In order not to be mistaken in size, it is better to first make and install a pigtail, and only then accurately measure and order a plastic window in place.

Let's assume that the pigtail is already installed in the opening. The size of the plastic window is made in such a way that it turns out to be slightly larger than the "clearance" of the casing, or rather: 10 mm more in width and the same in height. From the inside, such a window will not enter the pigtail, but it will easily enter the opposite quarter from the street side. In this case, the edges of the frame will “hide” behind a quarter of 5 mm on each side (no longer possible - the hinges of the sashes will interfere), and an assembly gap will remain around the frame, which will later be filled with foam.

The frame is attached to the pigtail with self-tapping screws, as already described above. To provide beautiful tight docking frames and casings from the side of the room, a D-shaped door seal can be used. It is glued before installing the frame with the adhesive side on the edge of the quarter. Accordingly, the dimensions of the quarter must be adjusted for the seal.

But, as practice shows, quality workmanship pigtails, the need for such an addition disappears. The window is placed directly in the quarter and the meringue of the gaps is pressed tightly against the pigtail.

When attaching the frame, we firmly press it to the quarter, compressing the seal, and screw in the screws, fixing the window in this position. The installed window foams from the street. Then, after the foam has dried, its excess is cut off, the seam is sealed with a waterproofing tape or smeared with STIZ-A sealant, and platbands are installed.

Of course, since we refuse the interior decoration of the casing with any additional elements, then they must ennoble it, i.e. give it a look that matches interior design premises.

First of all, you need to give the lower crossbar the shape of a window sill in order to inner edge it protruded slightly from the wall and was slightly wider than the opening.

Second - we make the "dawn" of the inner surfaces of the racks and the top, i.e. we abandon the primitive rectangular (in cross section) shape of these elements and cut out a large chamfer, simulating the turn of the slopes.

Next, we process the inner surface of the casing elements. There are many options: texture, color - the choice is yours. You can simply sand the surface and varnish it. It is possible to cover the wood with a stain of the desired color so that the surface of the casing is in harmony with the color of the window and / or the color of the walls.

There is also, in my opinion, an interesting, but more costly option - to brush the surface, i.e. process antique.

Artificial aging of antique wood is now very popular in various design styles. The essence of brushing technology is to remove soft fibers from the surface of wood with a metal brush (along the fibers), while the surface turns from smooth to embossed. After giving the relief texture, the wood is cleaned of pile and fibers, then the final gloss is given.

You can immediately cover the tree with varnish, but the "aged" wood will look much more effective after being treated with a stain of the color you need. However, there is an even more spectacular way of coloring - patting - creating a contrast between dark wood pores and a lighter surface.

This is achieved with the help of paint of the desired color: the entire front surface of the casing is covered with it, and then the top layer is removed with a cloth until the paint has had time to dry. Final stage artificial aging- varnishing. It is applied in two or three layers. Then you can rub the surface soft cloth to add gloss.

Do-it-yourself window installation will save up to 50% of the money that would be spent on installation by a third-party company. But it is very important to do everything right, otherwise the savings will be doubtful. For wooden houses, there are some features that you should be aware of.

Possible problems with incorrect installation of windows

It is advisable to adequately assess your strengths in advance, because some mistakes can become very expensive:

• • lack of casing - a house made of timber during shrinkage “walks” and begins to put pressure on window frames;

• • the use of mounting foam in the shrinkage gap between the top in the casing and the wall of the house - the hardened foam is very hard and will transfer pressure from the upper bars to the window frame, nullifying the functions of the casing;

• • incorrect calculation of the dimensions of the plastic window frame - not taking into account the mounting gap, you will have to expand the window opening;

• • too large a gap between the frame and the wall - with a simple foaming of such a gap, the slopes will always be cold, it is better to insert an additional expansion profile;
  • lack of external protection of the mounting gap - when foaming the distance between the frame and the casing, it is better to close the gap from the outside with PSUL tape, which provides foam protection from ultraviolet radiation, but allows moisture to evaporate;

• • lack of waterproofing from the outside and vapor barrier from the inside - the foam is destroyed when exposed to the atmosphere, which leads to a deterioration in the insulating properties;

• • placing the window in the "cold zone" - is the cause of the freezing of the slopes and the formation of condensate from the inside

If there is the slightest possibility of making one of these mistakes due to inexperience, it is better not to save and order the installation of windows. For an experienced builder, do-it-yourself installation should not be a problem.

Pitfalls that plastic window manufacturers do not talk about

The tightness and high sound insulation of plastic double-glazed windows is presented as an undoubted advantage. But, unfortunately, not everything is so rosy. After all, the humidity in residential premises is constantly increasing, and thanks to leaky wooden frames, a constant flow of fresh air is ensured. Of course, too large gaps can make the house very cold, so euro-windows have long become a very popular product.

How to solve the problem with high humidity? One option is to make forced ventilation. But in the absence of ventilation holes, this can be problematic - you will have to redo a lot.

It was for such cases that window frames were invented. supply valves- special profiles that are installed on plastic windows. What is especially pleasing is the ease of installation. It is enough to replace part of the standard seal with a special one and fasten the valve to the window sash with several self-tapping screws. Unfortunately, the system will not work without an exhaust vent.
Another unpleasant surprise for owners of wooden houses is that companies that install plastic windows often do not guarantee their work, citing the unpredictability of wood behavior. So even with all the installation rules, you can find that after a few years the windows stopped opening. And you won't be able to sharpen the plastic with a file.

Manufacture of casing (pigtails)

The first thing that begins with the installation of windows - with the installation of casing. But is it always needed and how to do it right?

When you can do without pigtails

A new wooden house made of logs or timber will shrink in any case. And no one canceled the seasonal heaving of the soil. In this case, casing is required - it will protect the window from distortions, torsion or bends.

It is important to use only dry and durable material for casing boards - edged board 50 mm thick and edged timber 150x100 mm or 50x50 mm. The width should be equal to the thickness of the wall.

But in frame house you don’t have to make a pigtail - the frame itself is already formed for window and door openings and provides the necessary rigidity. In a log house that has stood for more than 10 years, some builders also do not mount the casing, arguing that it has already undergone shrinkage and is not deformed. But for peace of mind in your home, it is better to do it, this process is not so complicated.

How to do a squash properly

The last option is the most time-consuming, but also the most reliable. If there are doubts about your own carpentry skills, it is better to make a casing in a mortgage bar. For this:

• • In the window opening, in the middle of the timber, two vertical furrows 5x5 cm in size are selected. This can be done both with a chainsaw and with a hand circular saw, chisel and axe. The second option is preferable if the hand is not stuffed for precise work with a chainsaw.

• • On top of the mortgage bar is laid edged board and fixed with self-tapping screws flush - two at the top and bottom. To do this, a small recess with a diameter slightly larger than the head of the self-tapping screw is pre-drilled.
  • If the “thorn-monolith” casing option is chosen, then the previously sawn T-shaped element is simply driven into the groove and also screwed on with self-tapping screws.
  • Vertical elements should not reach the upper edge of the opening by 8 cm - so that the top laid on them with a thickness of 5 cm is at a distance of at least 3 cm from the wall beam. This will be the shrink gap.
  • The tip should enter the grooves with little effort, and not move freely in a horizontal plane. It is also fixed with self-tapping screws screwed in at an angle.
  • The insulation is laid in the shrinkage gap and closed on the inside with a vapor barrier, and on the outside with a windproof membrane. In no case should the insulation be covered on both sides with vapor-tight films - the accumulated condensate will cause mold to form on the wood adjacent to the insulation.

And this is how the casing is done “in the deck”:

When the pigtail is ready, you can proceed directly to the installation of double-glazed windows.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows

The installation of double-glazed windows is not very complicated, but it requires precise adherence to the technology. Otherwise, the window will almost certainly condense, and the frame will warp.

Checking the delivered double-glazed window

In no case should you neglect this moment! First, the dimensions of the window opening and the double-glazed window are checked. So, if the opening is 184 cm, then the window frame should be 180 cm - the gap between the side posts and the wall cannot exceed 2 cm on each side. The height of the window opening, for example, is 120 cm, then the frame itself should be 116 cm, and at the bottom there is also a stand profile (clover) of 3 cm. Thus, the gap on top will turn out to be 1 cm. it needs to be left a place at the window calculation. It is needed so that the window sill can be installed from the inside, and the ebb can be screwed on the outside.

If mosquito nets are planned on the windows, it is also necessary to check the presence of fasteners. Handles are often “lost” as windows are transported without them. But pins - special fasteners, you need to select yourself.

Their length should be such that, when fully screwed in, they reach only to the middle of the casing. And that's with clearance. If the dowel is screwed into the wall of a wooden house, the window will begin to deform, regardless of the presence of a pigtail.

Often they do not pay attention to small elements - decorative overlays, fittings and drainage holes. They also need to be counted. But the window sill and the ebb must be ordered - forgetting to clarify their need, you can find that the windows arrived without them. For installation, you will also need special linings for the glass itself - their presence can only be seen by disassembling the double-glazed window.

They may not be included in the kit, so it is better to order them in advance. Wedges are convenient because thanks to them different sizes you can set the frame evenly by simply placing a wedge of the desired thickness under the corners and racks.

Dismantling and preparation of double-glazed windows

The finished double-glazed window is brought assembled. But to install it, you have to disassemble everything to the frame. For this:

• • when closed, the upper pins holding the swinging sash are removed with a special key;
  • the window handle is inserted, the sash opens and is removed from the lower mounts;
  • glazing beads are knocked out from the inside of the window and double-glazed windows are removed - you can use a hammer and a regular knife;
  • you need to remember or designate the right and left glazing beads;
  • removed from the outside protective film- under the influence of the sun, after a few months it will no longer come off;
  • external elements are mounted - mosquito net holders and decorative plugs for drainage holes;
  • holes for pins are drilled - first at a distance of no more than 20 cm from the corners of the frame, and then no more than 60-70 cm from each other;

As soon as preliminary preparation completed, you can proceed directly to the installation.

Installation of the frame and assembly of plastic windows

First, the frame is simply inserted into the window opening and temporarily fixed in it. For example, temporary jibs nailed on the outside. But it is much easier to do everything with an assistant - he just holds the frame until it is leveled and screwed to the casing. Frame installation also requires the correct sequence:

1. 1. The bottom edge is leveled - laser level more convenient in this regard. Wedges of different thicknesses are placed under each rack so as to achieve a perfectly even position. Even minimal distortion will create problems during operation.
   2. Side braces are inserted to ensure the same distance from the walls. If the width of the window frame is too small and literally "falls out" of the opening, you can use a special expansion profile. This is much better than foaming the resulting huge gap.

1. 1. The frame is also aligned vertically. Do not forget that you need to install it in a "warm" zone - for wooden walls without external insulation, this is clearly in the middle.
   2. Once the frame is level, you can begin to mount it, starting with the side racks. First, holes are drilled in the tree through those already made in the frame, and then the dowels are baited. First, the upper and lower, with a mandatory check of the vertical, and then between them.
   3. As soon as the frame is fixed, the ebb is attached outside. Of course, this can be done as a last resort, but on the second floor it is not so easy to approach from the outside. The tide is inserted into a special groove under the frame, screwed on with two self-tapping screws along the edges, and under it the gap is filled with mounting foam.

1. 1. Decorative trims are put on the fasteners of the sash. The lower ones are put on the frame, the upper ones - on the sash. First, the sash is installed on the frame, and only then the handle is attached in the open state.

1. 1. Double-glazed windows are placed on special gaskets. Without them, the window may simply burst due to the emphasis on the metal parts in the corners of the frame.

1. 1. The mounting seam around the perimeter is foamed.
   2. The window sill is installed. To do this, a finished window sill is placed on the window sill, wedges are placed under it for leveling. The window sill is removed, its end and delivery profile are smeared with sealant, and the free space between the wedges is foamed. Again, the window sill is placed, pressed tightly against the profile and left until the foam hardens.

1. In some cases, they do the opposite - first install the window sill, align it in level and screw it with dowels to the casing. And then a double-glazed window is placed on top of it. In this case, it is no longer necessary to align the frame horizontally. The only inconvenience is that the material of the window sill must withstand the action of the external environment. Of course, you can fix the ebb outside on top of the window sill and foam everything under it, thus protecting the wooden element.

Once the mounting foam has hardened, you can start finishing the windows.

Slopes for a plastic window in a wooden house

The easiest option that even girls can handle is to cover them with plastic panels. For this you will need:

• L-shaped or starting profile - it is screwed to the wall close to the window frame;
• decorative plastic corner- it closes the end of the panel from the side of the room and is also screwed with self-tapping screws;
• herself plastic lining for slopes.

And you don't even need to froth anything. But in order to provide the necessary protection of the mounting seam and good insulation, it is necessary to lay a heater between the wall and the slope and cover it with a vapor barrier. From the outside, the seam is closed with a windproof film - waterproofing with good vapor permeability.

And in order for the windows to please with warmth and comfort, it is very important to protect the mounting foam from exposure to ultraviolet radiation, as well as from being taken away by birds. You do not need to restrain your soul's impulses if you want to start doing something with my own hands. And everything will definitely work out!