If you constantly deal with sharpening hard workpieces, the surface of the drill will very quickly become unusable. It will become dull, become very hot and eventually lose its former strength. All this is a consequence of “letting go” of the metal. That is why such a tool needs periodic sharpening using special devices.
How to make homemade devices for drill sharpening, what templates exist for this and what you need to prepare for work, you will learn from our article.
Features of sharpening drills
Drills are inexpensive devices, especially if we talk about those that are widely used for household needs. However, if possible, then after they become dull, it is better to sharpen the tools than to buy new ones.
There are factory-made devices designed for sharpening, but buying them will cost you a lot, and this will not make up for the savings from not purchasing new tools. That is why many craftsmen collect machines for sharpening with your own hands.
It is worth noting that dulling applies to metal drills, since wood tools are practically not susceptible to this, except when used at high speeds with resinous workpieces. Also cannot be sharpened pobedit tips for stone or concrete.
But many people sharpen metal drills using all the additional devices with their own hands, but the accuracy of such work is far from always ideal, so it is advisable to use at least a minimum of mechanics.
How to properly make a tool for sharpening drills with your own hands: training video
To make such a device yourself, you will need a control tool (template). No matter how the drill is sharpened, the accuracy is checked with a special template.
Simple ferrous metal drills have an edge angle of 115 to 120 degrees. If the metal is different, then the sharpening angles will also be different:
You can prepare immediately several templates depending on the listed values and, in accordance with them, sharpen with your own hands. The same drill can be used for different types of workpieces; you just need to change the angles of the top of the workbench.
A simple but very convenient pulling device is bushings different sizes , which are attached to the base. You can make them yourself, based on special drawings. Remember that the tool should not be loose in the sleeve, and the quality of drilling may deteriorate even if the error is only one degree.
You can make a large clip based on aluminum or copper tubes, depending on the standard parameters of the drills, or take a block from soft material and make a lot of holes in it. It is very important to place a convenient support in the sharpener, thanks to which you can move the sharpening device at the desired angle and hold the stop.
The listed sharpening devices have been manufactured for many decades in a row and are still in demand. To assemble the sharpening machine With your own hands, you can take an oak block instead of a corner.
The simplest sharpening machine can be assembled by simply installing a workbench or table opposite the side of the emery. Even such a simple device ensures high quality and accuracy of work.
Features of sharpening on a simple device
You can find it on the Internet ready-made drawings devices for sharpening drills, or sketch them yourself, but for this you need to understand the principle of working with a drill.
During work Absolutely forbidden allow the drill to move around its axis. If it turns at least a millimeter, it will be damaged, and you will have to grind off a small distance to re-process it.
After finishing the work, the drill should cool down, also take measurements using templates. The edges must be perfectly symmetrical down to tenths of a millimeter. This is especially important if the drill has a minimum diameter.
Sharpening may be accompanied by the following errors:
How to use improvised means with your own hands assemble a twist drill sharpening machine on metal?
For the basis of the device, you can take any sharpening machine that is capable of working properly, there is no axis runout, and it maintains speed under load.
The task looks like this:
- the tool rest must stand strictly horizontally on the same axis with the rotation of the emery;
- the design must be safe, reliable and durable;
- it should be possible to sharpen both manually and semi-automatically;
- the shape of the tool rest should facilitate the free lowering of the drill shank on desired angle.
No specific parts are required to make this device; almost everyone has everything they need home handyman. Workpieces are processed Bulgarian, welding or sharpener.
For semi-automatic mode, a swing stop is assumed, so you need to make a loop connection. Choose exactly for no backlash bolt, bracket and tube holes.
The platform must move along the vertical axis so that you can change the sharpening angle of the drill. This axis can be fixed, and the tool rest should swing, while resting on the horizontal axis, which, when sharpening, provides the necessary articulation.
Support plate made of metal 4 mm thick, and the main parts of the structure should have a thickness of 3 mm, respectively. This ensures its high strength. The tool rest is rigidly connected to the emery body. Attach it to protective casing This is not possible, so screw the bracket using the metal “cheek”.
Then we screw the guide plate itself for drills with a thickness of 5 mm to the support plate. In it, to fix the drill during processing, sawing triangular groove.
The design has a rotation angle of 90 degrees, which allows for point different methods . Starting from the Leontiev method and ending with pressing at a certain angle and creating acute angle edges due to the curvature of the sandpaper.
During processing, the drill will not only stand firmly in the groove, it can also be fed along the groove to the abrasive, and the sharpening angle will not deviate. Due to the partial excess of the plane of the support plate above the axis of movement of the disk, it is possible to achieve the desired shape sharpening the back edge.
Before performing work, the drill should press against the plate and align the cutting edge parallel to it. The adjustment is now complete and you can bring the tool to the sandpaper. Sharpening must be done slowly and carefully, carefully monitoring the angle.
Thanks to this homemade tool, it is possible to achieve high sharpening accuracy and practically no template is needed. True, it will take time to install the machine and adjust the angle, but then you quickly and easily sharpen drills in the right quantity.
But if you need to sharpen a drill equipped with a carbide attachment, you can attach a swinging plate to a fixed angle. To do this, place several washers under the axle nut.
Using an emery wheel in a homemade sharpening tool
For universal sharpening work, white wheels based on electrocorundum are mainly used. They are used for sharpening shovels, axes, knives and metal workpieces.
For the purpose of processing carbide drills or high-speed metals, you need to take abrasive green wheels based on silicon carbide marked 64C. But for household needs, a wheel grit of 25N is sufficient.
Sharpening drills requires a finer fraction in the area from 8H to 16H. Remember that silicon carbide-based abrasives get very hot during operation, so the drill cannot be kept in contact with such abrasive for a long time. Let the metal cool down after 2-3 approaches and cool it in soda water.
Edge quality depends on direction abrasive rotation. Its working surface must run over the cut (go from top to bottom).
Peripheral emery surface when processing it must be smooth. It can be adjusted with a CBN-based nozzle. If the disk has a small diameter, it is permissible to use pliers in which the CBN cutter will be held.
So, we looked at how at home you can assemble and use devices of varying complexity for sharpening drills and more. Choose suitable option you can depending on your household needs.
If we talk about those drills that are used by craftsmen at home, their cost in stores is low. But even in this case, you should not use them as consumables for single use. After all, updating a drill to the best working condition will not be great work, if the master has skill or special devices.
There are factory-made machines that are designed for sharpening, but this is a separate expense item, so most often craftsmen create such devices with their own hands.
Most of the problems are caused by drills for metal, and wooden blanks do not quickly reduce the sharpness of the cutting edges.
To make a machine for restoring the sharpness of cutting elements, the necessary control means (template) are used to check the tool.
Typically, tools for ferrous metal, carbide bronze, steel or cast iron - with an edge angle of 115-125 degrees. The length of another material, these parameters are different.
for soft bronze, red copper – 125, for brass alloys – 135;
for aluminum and soft aluminum alloys, granite, ceramics and wood – 135 degrees;
for magnesium and its alloys – 85 degrees;
for plastic, textolite and silumin - from 90 to 100 degrees.
Masters, if necessary, make templates in accordance with the above data. By the way, theoretically, a single drill can be suitable for all these metals and other materials, if you sharpen different working surfaces each time.
An elementary handicraft device that is often used, bushings attached to the base. There are many drawings on the Internet for self-made. It is necessary to take into account that the tool must be well clamped, the accuracy depends on 1 degree.
If desired, you can make a large-sized clip using aluminum or copper tubes relative to the typical characteristics of drills or drill many holes in a soft metal workpiece. It is necessary that the sharpener has a comfortable hand rest to move the device and hold the stop.
This primitive sharpening machine is easy to install on a workbench or table.
A practical example of working with a drawing
The essence of the problem: there are drills, they need to be sharpened.
We will use one of the sharpening methods, close to the factory ones. Too lazy to catch with your hands. Better than the monkey method - set it and you're done. It took approximately 1 hour to manufacture the device according to the finished drawing.
A little welding work according to the template. A corner was made. We put the washer on, it’s just pressed on.
Let's try the first sharpenings, if everything is assembled correctly, we will refine and refine it, make a quick adaptation.
After sharpening the drill, we carry out a test. Two casting chips are visible, which means that sharpening was carried out correctly.
The only drawback is that one chip is longer than the other, which means they missed the length of the edges. It is necessary to make a stop that will regulate the length and ensure symmetry of the edges. To do this, we will make a thrust washer that will be aligned and machined. Or we’ll cut it to make it possible to process shorter drills. 
When working with hard workpieces, the working surface of the drill wears out quickly. A dull drill becomes very hot and loses strength. This occurs due to the “releasing” of the metal. The tool must be sharpened periodically. However, this applies not only to drills.
Drills are inexpensive devices. In any case, those models that are used in household. However, it is wasteful to buy a new tip every time it becomes dull.
There are factory-made sharpening devices, but this violates the concept of economical use of home tools.
Wood drills practically do not become dull, except that the tool can be “driven” at high speeds into a resinous workpiece. Pobedit tips for concrete and stone cannot be sharpened. All that remains is to sharpen the drill for metal. Many experienced locksmiths carry out this procedure with their own hands, without any equipment.
However, the accuracy of the work leaves much to be desired, and not every home craftsman has such a professionally developed eye. In any case, minimal mechanization is necessary.
IMPORTANT! Sharpen tips using a file, needle file, or even sandpaper- meaningless. To do this, you need an electric sandpaper (sharpener).
How to make a homemade device for sharpening drills?
First of all, it is necessary to acquire a means of control. No matter how you sharpen the drill, you need a template to check the accuracy of the work.
Conventional drills for working with ferrous metals have an edge angle of 115-120 degrees. If you have to work with different materials- read the table of angles:
Workpiece sharpening angle Steel, cast iron, carbide bronze 115-120 Brass alloys, soft bronze 125-135 Red copper 125 Aluminum and soft alloys based on it 135 Ceramics, granite 135 Wood of any species 135 Magnesium and alloys based on it 85 Silumin 90- 100 Plastic, textolite 90-100
Knowing these values, you can prepare several templates and, in accordance with them, sharpen yourself. In this case, you can use the same drill for different workpieces, you just need to change the angle of the top of the working area.
The simplest, but very effective sharpening device is bushings of different diameters, mounted on some kind of base.
Schematic drawing of the device in the illustration:
IMPORTANT! The tool should not dangle in the sleeve; an error of only one degree will reduce the quality of drilling.
It is best to make a whole clip of copper or aluminum tubes, under standard sizes drills Or drill a sufficient number of holes in a bar of soft material. The main thing is to install a convenient handpiece on your sharpener, which will allow you to right angle move the sharpening device, and serve as a reliable stop.
Our grandfathers used this method. Only an oak block was used as a material for the manufacture of a sharpening machine - an angle.
In principle, it was enough to place a table or workbench opposite the side surface of the emery - and sharpening machine ready. At the same time, the quality and accuracy of processing was at high level.
There are different drawings of sharpening devices.
You can use a ready-made one, or develop it yourself. The main thing is to understand the principle of working with a drill.
IMPORTANT! When working on a sharpener, do not allow the drill to rotate around its axis.
If the tool turns even a millimeter, it will be damaged and you will have to grind off some distance for reprocessing.
After finishing sharpening, let the drill cool and take measurements using a template. Both edges must be symmetrical to within tenths of a millimeter. This is especially important for small drills diameter
The diagram shows typical mistakes in self-sharpening:
The design of a sharpening machine for twist drills for metal, made from scrap materials
The basis is a household sharpening machine with a proud inscription “made in Germany”, which has all the signs of a product from the Middle Kingdom. However, it works properly, there is no axle runout, and it maintains speed under load.
The technical specifications are as follows:
- the tool rest must be strictly on the same horizontal line (or above it) with the axis of rotation of the emery;
- the design is durable and reliable, ensuring work safety;
- there should be a possibility manual sharpening, and semi-automatic - using a device;
- The shape of the tool rest allows you to freely lower the drill shank to the required angle.
No scarce parts are required to manufacture the device. All the materials were actually lying underfoot in the barn. The processing of the workpieces was carried out with a grinder, the same modernized sharpener, and welding.
Since the emphasis was supposed to be made swinging (for semi-automatic mode), a loop connection was made. The holes of the tube, bracket and bolt are precisely selected to ensure there are no backlashes. The resulting device has two degrees of freedom.
The platform can be rotated along the vertical axis - changing the sharpening angle of the drill. This axis is fixed. The tool rest can also swing based on a horizontal axis, ensuring proper articulation during sharpening. This degree of freedom is not fixed.
For the base plate, metal with a thickness of 4 mm was chosen, the remaining structural elements were 3 mm thick. The strength is more than sufficient. The tool rest is rigidly connected to the emery body. Of course, attaching it to the protective casing is unacceptable, so we screw the bracket using an additional metal “cheek”.
The actual guide plate for drills is screwed to the tool rest (more precisely, to the support plate). The plate is 5 mm thick and has a triangular groove cut into it for fixing the drill during processing.
The rotation angle of the structure is 90 degrees. This will ensure sharpening in any way, from the Leontiev method - to pressing at one angle with the development of an acute angle of the edge due to the curvature of the sandpaper.
The drill bit being processed is not only firmly held in the groove - it can be freely fed to the abrasive along the groove, without the slightest deviation of the sharpening angle.
Due to some excess of the plane of the support plate above the axis of rotation of the disk, optimal shape sharpening the back of the working edge.
Before starting work, press the drill against the plate and align the cutting edge parallel to the plate. This completes the adjustment and you can move the tool to the sandpaper. Sharpening a drill requires certain skills; do everything slowly, carefully pay attention to the sharpening angle.
The accuracy of the work is the highest; a template is actually not required. It takes some time to install the device and adjust the angle, but you can quickly sharpen a couple of dozen drills without spending any effort.
If you need to sharpen a drill with a carbide attachment, the swinging plate can be fixed at a fixed angle. To do this, you just need to place a couple of washers under the axle nut.
A few words about the emery wheel
Typically, for universal tasks, a white corundum wheel is used in a home sharpener. It sharpens knives, axes and shovels very well. It can be used to quickly process metal workpieces.
When sharpening carbide drills (and high-speed metal also requires a harder disc), green is used abrasive wheel made of silicon carbide. Such circles are marked 64C.
The grit size for household work is usually 25H.
When sharpening drills, a finer fraction is required; it is better to work in the range 8H - 16H. It must be remembered that silicon carbide sandpapers become very hot during operation. Therefore, you cannot keep the drill in contact with the abrasive for a long time. After 2-3 approaches, let the metal cool. It is best to cool it with water and soda.
IMPORTANT! The direction of rotation of the abrasive determines the quality of the edge. Working surface the disk should run over the cut, that is, move from top to bottom.
The peripheral surface of the emery, as the main processing surface, must be perfectly flat. You can straighten it with a CBN nozzle. Not for disks large diameter It is quite possible to get by with pliers that hold the CBN cutter.
Metal drills are hardened during production, but gradually they still become dull. Of course, you shouldn't throw them away right away. You can sharpen a metal drill yourself using special equipment.
Types of sharpening devices
To properly sharpen a drill, you need to use special devices. They are divided into two categories:
- industrial equipment. Has high power. Using it, it is possible to sharpen drills with a radius of one centimeter. These devices are installed in large enterprises. Sharpening is performed semi-automatically/automatically;
- household equipment. Intended for use at home. In addition, it is used in small enterprises. This equipment is mobile, compact, and has standard power.
When purchasing a machine, you need to take into account the noise level, design features device. Best buy ordinary machine, because it is easy to find suitable spare parts for it.
You only need to purchase sharpening devices in special places, because they come with a technical passport for the machine. In addition, the buyer receives a warranty card.
The use of sharpening machines at home
For home the best option are considered household machines. With them it is possible to sharpen different types drilling tools. It is worth considering that for certain types of drills you will need to buy special circles.
In order to carry out sharpening yourself, you need to choose a machine that is equipped with a universal chuck. It makes it possible to clamp parts of different sizes.
The buyer is often provided with the sharpening device:
- CBN circles;
- keys;
- collets;
- replacement parts;
- lighting fixture for the workplace.
The most common devices for sharpening drills are Drill Doctor, GS. These machines are intended for sharpening drilling tools with a radius of 0.2-3.4 cm. Such equipment is unable to sharpen extremely thin objects. To do this you will need to buy a special machine.
All equipment intended for sharpening tools at home:
- can work from the electrical network;
- highly productive;
- easy to use;
- functional;
- provides precise sharpening;
- is inexpensive;
- compact;
- weighs little;
- conveniently controlled. It is possible to change the intensity of sharpening and its speed.
How to make your own sharpening machine
First of all, you need to purchase a control device. It is required to check how accurately the work is done.
For drills intended for processing different metals, you need to make different edge angles. Below is a list of machined parts and corresponding edge angles:
- steel, cast iron, bronze – 115;
- brass, copper – 125;
- aluminum, ceramic, granite, wood – 135;
- magnesium – 85;
- silumin, plastic, textolite – 90.
Having familiarized yourself with this list, it is possible to make several templates and, accordingly, carry out sharpening with your own hands. The same drilling tool can be used for different parts. You just need to change the angle of the vertex of the workspace.
A simple but very effective device for sharpening a drill is a base on which bushings of various sizes are fixed. Remember that the object should not shake in the sleeve. The slightest deviation will lead to a significant decrease in the quality of drilling processing.
It is advisable to have a tube holder made of aluminum/copper. You can also make the required number of holes in a block of soft material. Mount a convenient tool rest on the grinding wheel, which allows you to move the homemade device for sharpening drills, which serves as a stop element, at the required angle.
Currently, there are various drawings of sharpening devices. You can use an existing one or create your own. Do not forget that when sharpening a tool, you must not allow the drill to rotate around its own axis.
Once sharpening is complete, allow the tool to cool. Measure the accuracy of your work using a template. The edges should be symmetrical. This is especially important for small radius tools.
Using an electric drill
Some people prefer to use an electric drill, which is equipped with special attachments, as the basis for a sharpening device. Of course, the number of attachments is limited. Consequently, sharpening by hand is difficult. The set with attachments includes a stone and a leash.
If you want, you can make the nozzle yourself. This element of the sharpening device must be equipped with a fastener to secure the tool.
Features of sharpening
If you decide to sharpen the tool yourself using sharpening devices, carry out the procedure according to the following algorithm:
- Finish the rear. Press the tool firmly and make sure that the sharpening angle does not change. At the end of processing, the end of the tool will look like a cone.
- Now sharpen the cutting surface.
- At the final stage, the rear part is refined. Make sure that the jumper size does not exceed four tenths of a millimeter. Of course, for big tool this figure should be slightly higher.
If something doesn't work out for you, don't be upset. It is advisable to practice on drills that most likely will not be useful. The main thing is to learn the correct pressure and maintain the angle. Remember that the holes are drilled into the sides of the tool, not the tip. Therefore, the edges must be sharpened without fail.
Do not forget that when processing drills appear tiny particles. Due to heating, they fly in different directions. In view of this, safety rules must be observed. Use special glasses and gloves. In addition, make sure that the tool is securely fastened, otherwise it will fly out of your hands.
If you want to use a device for sharpening drills with your own hands, be sure to prepare work area. Make sure there is adequate lighting. In addition, do not forget to wear special gloves and safety glasses.
- First of all, calculate the desired sharpening angle.
- Your sharpening stand should be such that the grinding wheel is on the right side.
- Perform alignment. For this big and index fingers grab the work area and hold the tail edge with your other hand.
- The drilling tool must be rotated so that the cutting surface is parallel.
- Don't forget to remove nicks and other imperfections.
- All movements must be done in some order. Eg, left hand it is necessary to move to the bottom from the left side, and the right - clockwise.
Conclusion
Acquire industrial equipment for sharpening drills is not very rational, since it is expensive. For home needs, an ordinary household machine or a sharpening device made by you is optimal.
To avoid mistakes when sharpening a metal drill yourself, you need to use special device. It can be a household/industrial machine tool, electric drill with a special nozzle. The attachment fits directly onto the drill for sharpening drill bits. If you have not attempted sharpening before drilling tool, watch the instructional video below.
Be sure to follow safety precautions. Ignoring simple rules, failure to wear protective clothing could land you in a hospital bed. Sparks caught in the eye are no joke. There is a high probability of losing your vision completely. Agree, it is better to simply wear special gloves and safety glasses than to expose yourself to the risk of serious injury.
The quality and accuracy of drilling depends on the sharpness of the working tool. In addition, unlike a table knife, the drill must be sharpened correctly. Experienced mechanics can straighten the cutting edge on a regular sharpening machine, simply holding the drill in your hands (at least according to them). But this method requires skill and many years of experience. Even if you have a steady hand and an excellent eye, without understanding the process, you will simply ruin the instrument.
A few basic rules for sharpening (using the example of twist drills for metal):
For a better perception of the material, let’s remember the structure of the drill.
- Do not press the tip against the sandpaper for more than 2-3 seconds at a time. The metal heats up and the so-called “tempering” occurs, that is, deprivation of hardening. Accordingly, the necessary hardness of the metal is lost. The first sign is the presence of temperature discoloration on the edge.
- For drill diameter up to 4 mm: each time the emery surface touches the drill, the drill is held in one position: rotation around its axis is unacceptable. For larger diameters, the sharpening geometry is slightly different.
- On twist drills, only the back surface of the cutting part is sharpened.
- The cutting edge should be directed towards the rotation of the sharpener (for mechanical sharpening).
- The main angle (2φ in the illustration) depends on the type of material being processed.
Which drills should I sharpen and how often?
Feather and other special wood drills cannot be repaired at home, and they do not become dull so quickly. Pobedite tips for concrete cannot be sharpened in principle. The most popular instrument remains - twist drills on metal. Of course, they are also used for processing wood (plastic, rubber and even stone), but this is not relevant to the topic.
Twist drill. The cutting edge has small size, therefore, during operation, it quickly heats up due to friction (there is no dissipation area). The main reason for dullness is overheating. At correct use wear does not occur as intensely. Characteristic signs of a blunt drill:
- A creaking sound is heard during operation.
- Instead of curled shavings, sawdust comes out of the hole.
- Instant heating of the tool without moving deeper.
Important: Do not use a dull drill; wear from overheating will only progress.
So, it's time to sharpen the tool. You don't want to ruin the drill and want to mechanize the process.
Mini sharpening machines are at your service:
All devices are divided into two types: attachments or stops for universal tool, And independent devices narrow specialization. Let's look at the most popular of them, from simple to complex:
This is just the device for those who have a steady hand and a diamond eye. In fact, it only allows you to hold the drill in a given position without fear of injuring your fingers. The control of the angle is visual, according to the position of the "wings" relative to any landmark. There are few advantages: instant readiness for work, compactness and price. The disadvantages are obvious: manual control of the process does not add accuracy.
In fact, this element is not a special device for drills. It simply allows you to fix the tool at a certain angle. The accuracy will be higher than in the previous version. Most stops allow you to set the angle of inclination, and even have a marking scale. And yet you have to rely on firmness of hands.
There are also more advanced stands: with interchangeable elements and adjustment of not only the angle, but also the height. Devices are mounted not on the body of the emery, but on the workbench: which makes them more versatile.
In fact, such a stop can be adapted to any electric sharpener. An additional bonus - with the help of such a stand you can sharpen knives, cutters, screwdrivers, chisels, etc.
Semi-professional guides for all types of drills
This is a fairly advanced tool that allows you to control sharpening characteristics with micron precision. All linear parameters are securely fixed, the values are set according to the markings. The drill is mounted in the groove, accidental displacement or rotation around its axis is excluded.
For sharpening, the possibility of both linear movement and movement of the edge along the arc path is provided (for conical sharpening of large diameter drills). Linear movement (along the axis) can be controlled by a master, or a limit stop can be installed.
From the point of view of processing quality, the device has practically no shortcomings. But for correct sharpening the operator must know the drill parameters. That is, there is no automation: therefore the tool belongs to the professional category.
As a development of the line - a guide with its own sharpening unit. There is no need to install a stop on the workbench and change discs. In fact - you have a semi-automatic table machine for sharpening.
Important note: All listed devices are designed to work with standard electric sharpeners. Therefore, before starting to process drills, it is advisable to install a special emery disc.
They are specialized power tools for performing a single task: sharpening twist drills.
Even a person who is far from technology can use the machine (although why does he need sharp drills?). The operator only needs to determine the diameter of the drill and immerse it in the appropriate hole. It is convenient to work, errors are practically excluded. However, all drills are sharpened with the same comb. The price to pay for ease of use is the lack of flexibility in settings. For home use – the best choice: especially if there is an additional attachment for sharpening knives and scissors.
There are versions for masters. The drill is installed taking into account the sharpening parameters, the process can be controlled by the operator.
The sharpening angle, the method of edge processing (linear or conical), and the depth of metal removal are selected. The drill is not located in a common holder, but in an individual cartridge.
Industrial sharpening equipment for a metalworking shop
During intensive use of drilling machines, a separate post is required to restore the functionality of the tool. Professional stands for sharpening drills of any diameter save time and effort, but the cost of such equipment is too high for home use.
The information obtained will help you choose a sharpening device without extra financial costs. In addition, there are replaceable attachments for hand-held power tools (for example, a drill). But this is a topic for another article.
