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Natalia Kuznetsova January 28, 2014 | 4497
In many ways, the growth, development and decorativeness of this herbaceous perennial depend on its formation.
We slow down growth
A chrysanthemum bush begins to form from a cutting. First stage - pinching or cutting when the top of the rooted cutting is removed. The difference between them is only in the size of the detachable top. When pinching, only the top itself is removed; when pruning, a part of the young stem that has grown from the axillary bud of the cutting is cut off.
These techniques delay the growth of the shoot for some time, thereby contributing to a better development of the roots. And most importantly, they lead to the removal of the so-called spring bud and stimulate the formation of side shoots. If the cutting is left without pinching, it will quickly stop its growth in height, and a flower bud will form on it. As a rule, in most varieties, this bud is capable of producing only an inferior, deformed inflorescence, which is why it is often called a "blind bud". The peculiarity is that the growth of the central shoot inhibits and deforms the development of lateral shoots.
After the first pinching or pruning and regrowth of side shoots, the following can be carried out. The more of them, the more branched the bush becomes and the more inflorescences grow on it.
To obtain huge cut flowers, after the first pinching, only one shoot must be left. In addition, it should break all escapes that develop from the leaf axils. Although many foreign farms that grow cut chrysanthemums form a bush with several stems.
Increasing the number of flowers
The number of pinches affects not only the height of the plant, but also the size of the inflorescences, although different varieties respond differently to this procedure. But, nevertheless, if you take tall varieties, pinching can reduce the height of the plant by 15-25 cm. But flower growers want to get not just a well-formed ornamental bush, but also a plant that will please flowering at the end of July-August.
Between pinching and budding, as a rule, 30-40 days pass. Because in the conditions middle lane you need to pinch the plant no later than the end of May. It is quite enough to make one pinch when the shoot will have at least 6-8 leaves. Having pinched the top, 4-6 leaves are left, from the axils of which, after a few days, shoots begin to develop. With such a simplified formation, the bush has 5-6 main, strong shoots, on each of which several side shoots are formed. And on the shoot there are several inflorescences that open alternately. Such bushes are quite dense, well leafy, bloom up to 2-2.5 months. Since during this time the axillary buds of all the leaves left on the handle also awaken, this contributes to the low branching of the bush. It looks like a beautiful oval.
A large number of side shoots, stepchildren, buds, and then inflorescences require a large influx of nutrients. Already after the first pinching or pruning, the young plant is watered with a weak solution of organic or nitrogen-containing mineral fertilizer.
It is important to remember that these techniques disrupt the natural rhythm of plant development. Therefore, they should not coincide with transshipment, let alone transplantation.
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Remember!
1. Chrysanthemums are relatively drought-resistant.
2. Chrysanthemums are photophilous (the bushes will be less lush in the shade).
3. Chrysanthemums are cold-resistant, they need shelter for the winter.
4. Chrysanthemums need proper pinching.
Landing
Chrysanthemums are planted and transplanted both in spring and autumn. In the spring - when the threat of night frosts has passed. In autumn, no later than 2-3 weeks before the onset of stable frosts. Half a bucket of humus or compost, or biohumus is brought into each landing hole.
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When planting, seedlings do not deepen. After planting, be sure to water. The minimum landing pattern is 30×30. Otherwise, the bushes will not be lush and will be too tall. During the summer season, until the moment of flowering, we do not forget about top dressing, we water every two weeks with complex fertilizer.
Formation of chrysanthemums (pinching)
Large-flowered chrysanthemums are grown in one or three stems with one flower on each of them.
For large-flowered chrysanthemums, it is very important to pinch in time. As soon as the young chrysanthemum releases the 8th leaf, pinch the crown. Then the plant will release several new shoots. Of these, 2-3 of the strongest are left, and the rest are removed. By the way, the removed extra cuttings of chrysanthemums can be rooted by cuttings.
Large-flowered chrysanthemums stepson, removing periodically appearing side shoots otherwise the flowers will be small.
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Pinching and pinching chrysanthemums
In order to grow larger, well developedflowers and inflorescences need to be pinched (pruned) and pinched. Let's consider these operations separately.
Pinching (cutting)
You have planted a rooted cutting of a large-flowered chrysanthemum. Sunny weather and proper care (watering and fertilizing) for the plant will give its results - the chrysanthemum will begin to grow rapidly upwards. Once the plant reaches20-25 cm long (7-10 sheets)it is necessary to do pruning or pinching - removing the upper part of the stem. The difference between pinching and trimming is only in the size of the top that is separated. When pinching, only the tip of the shoot is removed, and when pruning, the detachable part of the shoot used for rooting is at least 7-10 cm. Remember that pinching is done in the central and northern regions of Ukraine, not pruning.
When pruning, cut off the upper part of the plant by 7-10 cm (3-4 leaves) if the plant has reached a height of 20 cm. If you need to pinch, then simply remove the top of the chrysanthemum growth. As a rule, pinch once:
1) plants of early varieties;
2) undersized varieties of chrysanthemums.
Large-flowered we also recommend pinching once.If you do not pinch this group, then the primary bud will give an inferior flower. Pinching (pruning) helps to retard plant growth, better development of the root system, the formation of side shoots and the removal of spring buds. Plucked cuttings of chrysanthemums can be rooted, and later planted in the garden.
Pasynkovanie.
After pinching the plant, the rapid growth of lateral shoots begins. Therefore, in order to properly form a bush, it is also necessary to pinch - the removal of side shoots and buds, the so-called. stepson. They consume nutrients, greatly delay the development of the main stem and bud. Usually stepchildren are removed as soon as they grow to such a size that they can be grabbed with fingers. At the same time, please note that two or three stepchildren must be left in reserve in the upper part in case the main bud is damaged by pests and therefore underdeveloped. Large-flowered chrysanthemums periodically stepchild, removing unwanted shoots, and thus only one full-fledged flower is formed on each trunk.
Most modern bush hybrids do not need thinning buds, but the general rule is: fewer buds- even bigger flowers. If you want to get a lush inflorescence large diameter, it is necessary to remove all side shoots and buds, leaving one main one.
Also see our other articles on agricultural technology of chrysanthemums on the site http: // site /
Luxurious inflorescences on autumn flower beds attract the eye and amaze with a variety of shades. Indoor chrysanthemum in a pot differs from relatives in open ground compact form of a spherical bush 20–40 cm high. Breeders have bred several hybrids and varieties adapted to the lack of lighting and other indoor conditions.
"Home" chrysanthemums are not demanding for care, they grow well, bloom profusely and reproduce easily. In everyday life, it is customary to say "flowers", although the Asteraceae family has an inflorescence-basket. When buying, you should pay attention to the fact that there is a healthy chrysanthemum in a pot, care at home will then be much easier. A well developed indoor plant will continue to bloom on a windowsill. At favorable conditions buds can bloom almost without interruption for 2 years.
It should be noted that after self-propagation by cuttings or root offspring, new plants do not turn out to be as compact and dense as those purchased in a store.
Outdoor chrysanthemums are sold in plastic containers. Such flowers are planted in open ground, or left in containers, used for container gardening, patio decoration, and the entrance to the house. After flowering, the stems are cut, containers with roots are sent to the basement or loggia for the winter. If a street chrysanthemum is kept indoors, its leaves will turn yellow and dry. These plants need fresh air and a certain lighting regime - the night is longer than the day.
Varieties of chrysanthemums for growing in pots
Thanks to the efforts of breeders, geneticists and agrochemists, plants have been bred that can bloom profusely and for a long time in a room. In total, about 40 hybrid varieties of chrysanthemums have been created for indoor cultivation. Inflorescences may be smaller or the same size as in outdoor plants. Often varieties are grouped by origin from one natural species.
Chrysanthemum Indian
In nature, this is relatively low herbaceous plant. The leaves are toothed, green-gray. The inflorescence is a basket resembling a chamomile with yellow petals and the same core. It is the ancestor of small-flowered hybrids for growing on the windowsill and balcony.
The Indian chrysanthemum was crossed with species having white and pink inflorescences. Breeders using chemicals, affecting growth, received compact forms 20–25 cm high. Today there is a large number of A variety of shapes and varieties that feel good in the room are in high demand. The flower is liked and appreciated for the richness of color and long flowering, which is especially attractive in the cold period of time.
Popular varieties of chrysanthemums in indoor floriculture:
- "Golden Gloria" - dense bushes with a large number of large yellow inflorescences.
- "Old Gold" - plants with petals of an unusual reddish-bronze color.
- "Morifolium" - a variety with large simple, semi-double and double inflorescences 5 cm in diameter.
Chrysanthemum Chinese or mulberry
A group of varieties and hybrids, for the creation of which several species were used. Plants for indoor floriculture have compact shape, thin, highly branched stems 20–25 cm high. The leaves are saturated green, 7 cm long and 4–5 cm wide. Dotted glands are visible on the upper side of the leaf blade. Inflorescences of Chinese chrysanthemums - simple, semi-double and double, of various sizes and colors.
Chrysanthemum care at home
Buying a plant flower shop or receive as a gift. In any case, it is necessary to create conditions in the new room so that the buds do not fall off. Planting and caring for a chrysanthemum in a room is different from open ground and a greenhouse.
Lighting, temperature control
Light affects flowering and bud opening. The amount of light that is provided by placing the pot on a plastic or plastic windowsill is suitable. wooden windows facing west and east. Hitting the rays at noon can cause leaf burns, in this situation it is recommended to shade the plant. A young bush blooms with a day length of 6-8 hours in October or November (depending on the region).
The temperature comfortable for room chrysanthemum is 18–23 ° С. The variety, more demanding on the conditions of detention, reacts to the heat by dropping buds and leaves. It is advisable to spray the plant with water more often in summer to reduce the temperature. You can leave it in front of an open window, the chrysanthemum is not afraid of drafts.
Watering and feeding
The soil in the pot should always be moist. Chrysanthemum indoor prefers frequent irrigation, but not excessive. Stagnation of water in a pot can lead to root rot, the spread of fungal and bacterial diseases.
- The substrate must not be allowed to dry out.
- In autumn and winter, water once a week in the morning.
- Watering in spring and summer is carried out 2 times a week in the evening.
- In the heat, spray water near indoor plants to lower the air temperature.
- Used for irrigation and spraying settled water. If it is hard, then a white coating accumulates on the surface of the soil.
- Avoid getting drops on the flowers.
Abundantly flowering chrysanthemums require more frequent fertilization. Spend liquid top dressing once a week until the end of flowering. It is advisable to use complex fertilizers with added micronutrients. Actively growing shoots need nitrogen; during budding and flowering, more potassium and phosphorus are required. Feed the plant in a pot about 12 hours after watering.
Pruning and shaping the bush
The purchased plant retains its original shape for a long time. If in the future the growth of shoots is not regulated, then several long stems appear, which reduces the decorative effect.
- Perform pinching of rapidly growing shoots. Small-flowered chrysanthemums will require 2 or 3 treatments.
- Large-flowered hybrids can be formed in the form of a tree, for which the main shoot is shortened and the lower branches are cut off.
- Pinching out inflorescences that are starting to fade helps to increase the number of new buds.
Pruning is needed in case of delayed flowering. Selective pinching of the tops of the flower stalks will ensure the flow of nutrients to the remaining buds.
Plant transplant
Young and old plants need to update the substrate. Transfer to a deeper and wider pot once a year - in spring or early summer. The substrate is prepared from garden soil, peat and humus (1:1:1). You can use ready-made soil for indoor flowers.
For chrysanthemums, such indicators as loose structure, lightness, moisture capacity and nutritional value of the soil (mechanical composition and fertility) are important.
After transplantation, young offspring are covered with a plastic cup, adult plants - plastic bag. Provide at first diffused lighting, do not forget about watering.
Features of care after flowering
After the end of flowering, weak and diseased shoots are removed. Some growers recommend trimming the stems, leaving short sections above the surface of the substrate. After that, the soil is watered and the pot is removed in a cool, dry place until spring.
You can do without radical pruning at the root, leave the chrysanthemum in its original form on the windowsill in the room. The third option: to stimulate the growth of shoots and form a compact bush, pruning is done, but the pot is not removed. A strong chrysanthemum in the same season will start new shoots and bloom.
Reproduction of chrysanthemums at home
Adult chrysanthemums "acquire" root offspring (kids). From these additional shoots, young plants can be grown. Root offspring are carefully separated from the mother bush, planted in small containers. It is necessary to keep the depth of the plant at the same level. To do this, increase the height of the drainage layer or place the roots higher. Cover the seedlings with a plastic cup. In the autumn of the same year, young plants will bloom.
Rooting stem cuttings:
- Cut off young shoots from an adult plant.
- Fill a transparent plastic cookie or cake container with well-washed sand.
- Planted cuttings, cover with a lid from the container.
- After the formation of roots and the appearance of new leaves, young plants are transplanted into a pot.
Chrysanthemums are difficult to grow from seed. hybrid varieties are often sterile. Usually, during seed propagation of chrysanthemums, varietal characteristics are not preserved.
The main problems when growing a plant
Why do leaves turn yellow?
Chrysanthemum leaves change color due to improper care and diseases. Yellowing may be due to lack of light, water, hot air from the radiator. The appearance of grayish-yellow or brown spots with a yellow border is a sign of a fungal infection. If yellowing is associated with bad care, then it is easier to correct this deficiency than to treat plant diseases.
Chrysanthemum does not bloom - why?
Typical reasons for the absence of buds and flowers are a lack or excess of lighting. Chrysanthemum is a short day plant. If there is artificial lighting in the room in the morning and in the evening, then the biorhythms go astray. Another reason is associated with the rapid growth of stems and leaves, which happens with an excess of top dressing and no pruning.
Diseases and pests of room chrysanthemum
The plant is prone to rust powdery mildew, gray and black rot. These fungal infections are treated with houseplant fungicides. Chrysanthemum aphids, black sciarid midges, soil mites, springtails harm. The leaves are treated with a solution of Actellik, Fitoverm or Bazudin. For spraying, flowers are taken out to the balcony. window sills, window frames wash with a solution of soda and soap.
After the death of the pests, they change upper layer soil in a pot to a depth of 2 cm. It is recommended that you carefully consider the choice of substrate. Usually, pathogens and plant pests are contained in the soil brought from the garden.
It is very important to isolate the affected plant from the rest of the green pets in the room, to carry out pest and disease control in a timely manner. Then the chrysanthemums will remain healthy, will delight in flowering for a long time.
