DIY wooden sheath. taiga is my home. How to make a knife sheath from different materials DIY wooden knife cases

Every outdoor enthusiast should have a camping knife with him, which will definitely come in handy in nature. Many people wrap it in newspaper, paper, a towel or other fabric, from which it easily jumps out, cutting through the bag. To prevent this, you can make your own knife sheath using a material such as leather or wood. This product is made quite simply and suits every taste, and the manufacturing process can be seen in the video presented in the article.

Making a leather sheath with your own hands

To make a knife case, will be required following materials:

tool for fastening buttons, accessories for sewing;
one large and one small half ring;
paper;
strong thread;
a strip of plastic having a thickness of 2 mm;
glue for gluing natural leather, which remains elastic after drying.

Required tools:

marker or simple pencil;
compass, clothespins;
button clamping tool;
sandpaper, scissors;
awl;
a tool for piercing holes in the skin;
metal ruler;
knife or cutter.

Making a leather sheath

To make a leather sheath with your own hands, you must first make a template by placing the knife on a sheet of paper and tracing it with a pencil. On the blade side you need to leave seam allowance 8 – 10 mm, after which the sheet is folded and the template is cut out. What looks like a handle on it will actually be a loop for attaching the case to your belt. A half-ring will subsequently be installed on it so that it can then be hung on a knot, hook, etc., so the width of the handle must be adjusted to the width of the half-ring.

The template is applied to the skin, taking into account the length of the fastening, which should be 3.5 cm wider than the belt. The template is transferred to the skin with inside. In those corners where the transition of the sheath base to the belt mount occurs, it is necessary to make round holes. This is required to ensure that the leather does not tear at the corners during use. The pattern is cut out, with a straight cut best done with a cutter using a metal ruler.

Secure the half ring. To do this, the fastening strip must be bent so that the belt fits into it, leaving two centimeters for fastening the ring and one and a half centimeters for fastening to the base. The half ring is placed inside the loop. Using bauble buttons, the half rings are fastened, clamping them with a special tool.

After this, holes are made under the ring using a hole-piercing device and clamped with buttons. The mount is also secured at the base with buttons. If there is an extra piece of skin left, it must be cut off. In order for the sheath to be rigid, it is necessary to insert a strip of plastic, which is cut to the shape of the blade.

In addition, this case has another small half-ring for attaching the bottom of the sheath to the thigh. To do this, you will need a leather strip 2–4 cm long and the width of a half ring. To attach the half ring, a slot is made at the bottom of the sheath. To prevent the skin from tearing, holes are cut along the width of the strip and connected to the slot. The strip with a half ring is connected using a button and secured in the sheath using a button.

It is necessary to glue a piece of leather to the area remaining between the rounded edge of the sheath and the edge of the plastic. Cut out the appropriate blank. It should not be aligned in width, but left more. It is necessary to take into account the fact that the leather strip should not reach the upper base of the case, since the buttons may hold only two layers of skin together.

Glue the leather strip to the skin. After this, the workpiece is bent along a straight edge and glued, while the glue is applied along the curved edge of the base and the glued seal. The structure is fastened with clothespins and dried. Once the sheath is dry, a button is inserted into the “ears” and the excess skin is cut off.

Sew the curved edge of the cover. In order for the seam to be even, you need to draw a line with a compass from the edge of the sheath at a distance of 5 - 7 mm. Then mark the holes for the stitch, which should be at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Knock out holes for the thread and sew the edges of the sheath using an awl.

A retainer for the knife handle is made using a 2.5 cm wide leather strip and buttons. This strip is secured with buttons to the front part of the mount, a piece is cut off according to the thickness of the handle, securing it at the edges with buttons. An uneven cut of skin is processed sandpaper.

How to make a scabbard out of wood with your own hands?

Some outdoor enthusiasts are sure that wooden sheaths are much more comfortable than leather sheaths. They are especially popular in the Urals and Siberia. Thanks to such a simple and reliable design it becomes possible to quickly remove the knife and insert it back without unfastening anything. Such a cover cannot be pierced in a hurry.

To make a wooden sheath, you will need two small planks, the horizontal size of which should be equal to twice the thickness of its handle, and the vertical size should correspond to the length of the knife. The planks are carefully processed so that they fit tightly together. A knife is placed on each of them and its outline is traced. On the side of the handle on the end part, the sampling depth is marked for it.

The finished sample takes the form of a funnel, which should narrow evenly from the mouth of the sheath to the tip of the blade. Between the blade and the scabbard there is a small gap of 3 - 4 mm. Proceed to the final stage. The outside of the scabbard should be planed, leaving a wall thickness of 5 mm. A side is left near the mouth, on which the suspension loops are subsequently secured. To make the wooden sheath more durable, the area under the sides is wrapped with several layers of nylon thread, which are then impregnated with a special resin.

Several holes are made at the bottom of the scabbard, through which the same thread is pulled for reinforcement. Glue the prepared parts of the sheath together. As soon as the glue has dried, the surface is sanded in the most convenient way and impregnated with drying oil.

Thus, making a leather sheath for a knife is not a very complicated process. Thanks to this device, the knife will not be able to fly out of the improvised case, cutting the package or bag. Thanks to the right technology manufacturing produces an original product.

A knife is an indispensable attribute for every hunter, fisherman, tourist and mushroom picker. Therefore, many are interested in how to make a sheath for a knife - the tool must be securely fixed to reduce the risk of losing it, but at the same time, removal should take only a few moments. Experienced craftsmen can make sheaths from birch bark, leather, plastic, wood and other materials. Let's tell you in more detail how to make a knife sheath with your own hands.

Leather is one of the most popular materials in the manufacture of classic sheaths. It is the easiest to work with, so even beginners usually have no problems making leather sheaths with their own hands. You can easily adjust the sheath to a specific instrument, ensuring a secure fit.

Before you start work, you need to make sure that you have the following tools and materials at hand:

A4 sheet of paper;
high-quality, well-made leather;
strong threads or thin cord;
glue for genuine leather that retains elasticity after drying;
stationery cutter and scissors;
scotch;
sewing awl (with hook);
ruler;
pencil;
medium grit sandpaper.

Now, let's get to work:

Place the knife blade on the paper and trace with a pencil - with a margin of 2-3 millimeters on each side (adjusted for the thickness of the knife).
Re-attach the knife to the paper and now trace the entire knife, not just the blade.
Cut out both “blanks” and glue with tape - check whether the knife fits into the paper sheath. If yes, move on to the next point. If not, do the previous steps again, making the necessary amendments.
Separate the “blanks” and attach them to the skin, then trace and cut out.
Place the short form in hot water(not boiling!) and hold for 5-7 minutes - the skin will become soft and elastic. Press it against the knife blade and part of the handle, then secure it with a cord or clothespins. It needs to dry into a suitable shape - this usually takes several hours or even overnight.
Make holes in the finished workpiece using an awl.
Attach the workpiece to the second one and use a pencil to mark points through the holes - make holes here too.
Fold the protruding part of the long piece in half, under the belt, and sew to form a loop. You can make it wide or narrow - to your taste.
Carefully sew the two pieces together.
Sand the outside seam to remove any rough edges or burrs.

The simplest leather sheath is ready! You can rightfully be proud of them, and also of the fact that you are able to make a knife sheath with your own hands.

You will need the following tools and materials:

two boards of a suitable size for the knife;
high-quality glue (Moment will do);
jigsaw;
small chisel;
clothespins;
thin leather or suede.

Having stocked up with everything you need, start working:

Place the knife on the boards and circle with an indentation of approximately 5-7 mm on each side.
Saw off the excess and process the outer part.
Place the blade on the inside of the boards and circle with an indentation of 1-1.5 mm on each side.
Using a chisel, remove wood to a depth of 2/3 of the thickness of the knife.
Cut out pieces of leather or suede to suit your shape and glue them into the recesses on the sheath.
Apply Moment glue around the perimeter of both parts of the sheath. Let the glue set for 5-7 minutes, then press tightly but carefully so that the wood does not crack, press them together and secure with clothespins or a cord for a day.

The wooden knife sheath is ready! If desired, you can sheathe the outside with leather - as described in the paragraph on making leather sheaths - so that you can wear them on your belt. In addition, you can apply a pattern to the wooden sheath - with carving or a regular marker, oil paints. The only thing that can limit you here is your own imagination.

How to make a sheath out of plastic

Making a knife sheath from plastic with your own hands is relatively not difficult - easier than wooden ones. But for this you need to have certain tools. To work you need:

drill;
saw;
plastic pipe;
riveter with rivets;
sandpaper;
belt fasteners (you can just use a narrow strip of leather);
construction hairdryer

Not everyone has this set. household. But if you have everything you need at hand, you can start making a knife sheath.

Saw off a piece plastic pipe– the length should be 1-2 centimeters longer than the blade of the knife and the part of the handle that you plan to “sink” into the sheath.
Cut the pipe lengthwise.
Heat the workpiece thoroughly with a hair dryer set at 400 degrees. Remember to use protective gloves to avoid serious burns.
When the plastic warms up and becomes soft and pliable, insert a knife into it, exactly as far as it will go when carrying it, and crimp the pipe, giving it a suitable shape.
Allow the plastic to cool and harden.
Cut off the excess - length and width. Use a pencil to mark the places where the rivets will be inserted - the optimal distance is 1-2 centimeters.
Carefully drill through the marked areas with a thin drill bit. If you want to get a belt loop, fold a piece of leather in half and also make a couple of holes in it to attach to the sheath with rivets.
Insert tacks into the holes and use a riveter to secure them in place.
All that remains is to paint the scabbard suitable color. Of course, black looks the most elegant and strict. But bright colors - red, orange, blue - are more noticeable. If you suddenly lose your knife and sheath in thick grass, it will be much easier to find them.

That's all. Now you know the whole procedure and, if you wish, you can easily make exactly the sheath you need.

Mutant 03-01-2007 18:20

I would like to recall an undeservedly forgotten, in my opinion, version of the scabbard - made of wood. For centuries, such sheaths protected blades from damage (and, accordingly, people too).
In the 70-80s of the last century, they were still often found - along with homemade hunting knives (and in those years good knife almost always was not factory-made). Why now everyone only makes leather sheaths is a mystery to me...

Compared to simple leather sheaths, wooden sheaths have an advantage - you cannot accidentally cut through the mouth of the sheath even with a very sharp knife. And to pierce them in an unsuccessful fall, when the handle of the knife rests on the stomach, and the blade... say, on the leg, is unrealistic. Well, in case of strong lateral loads or impacts (accidentally stepped on a knife lying on the ground), the rigid structure protects the blade much better than leather.
The knife is fixed (and very reliable - tested) without any additional fasteners or other elements - due to the design itself. In my opinion, this is important - unbuttoning and fastening them with frozen fingers is still a pleasure...
The knife can be easily inserted and removed into the wooden sheath with either a bare hand or a gloved hand. Moreover, it is not at all necessary to hold the sheath with your second hand. Usually this is done without looking - you fumble with the blade for the wide mouth, push it a little - the knife is in its sheath. For more reliable fixation, a sufficiently large and index fingers grab the edge at the mouth of the sheath, and use your palm to “send” the knife. Since the sample has the shape of a funnel, smoothly tapering from the mouth of the sheath to the tip of the blade, the handle is very tightly wedged in the sheath (remember the fastening of drills on a Morse taper). Any development is compensated by deeper (1-2 mm) recessing - a cone.
And to pull out a knife, it’s usually enough to grab the handle close to the mouth and squeeze your fingers a little harder - the knife literally jumps out of the sheath.
Plus, decent straight grain wood isn't very hard to find either, for me it's easier than, say, Kydex. In addition, modern plastics may not match the knife itself simply in style. I’m not even talking about the beauty of the tree - it all depends on the craftsman.

Another convenience is that the sheath suspension can be made removable. In addition to ease of replacement (you can make several different hangers for one sheath), it makes it possible to remove and put on the knife without unfastening the belt.

In general, in order to appreciate all the advantages (and disadvantages) of wooden sheaths, you need to acquire them...

So, preparing the sheath according to the “classical” Ural-Siberian technology.
Two boards are selected (or one, thicker one is split, sawn lengthwise) the length of a knife, and a thickness of one and a half to two times the thickness of a handle. The length of the blanks depends on the center of gravity of the knife, more precisely, on the center of gravity of the knife in the sheath. The suspension attachment points on the sheath must be above the center of gravity of the entire structure, otherwise the knife will tend to turn with the handle down.
Another criterion is how deeply the handle is supposed to be recessed into the sheath. You can focus on the middle of the handle - and it’s convenient to take it out, the knife is immediately grasped as it should, and will not fall out under its own weight.
The scabbard halves are processed until they fit tightly together. Then a knife is placed on these adjacent sides of the sheath halves and traced along the contour. If the handle is symmetrical in cross-section, you can turn the handle 180* and circle it again. The overall outline is needed only so that the knife can be inserted into the sheath both forward and backward, without hesitation - whichever is more convenient.

In the first photo - the usual position of the knife in the sheath, in the second - the blade is rotated 180*

But if the handle is not symmetrical in cross-section, you don’t have to do this - to deploy the sheath with a removable suspension, a few seconds are enough.
At the end on the handle side, the depth of the cut under the handle is marked (with a minus allowance for final adjustment.

The wood is selected according to the contour. The sample looks like a funnel, smoothly tapering from the mouth of the sheath to the tip of the blade.
Schematically it looks like this:

Mutant 03-01-2007 18:38

There is a gap of 2-4 mm between the blade and the sheath (more is possible). This is necessary in order to insert a knife with a frozen blade, stained with resin, etc., in winter, and clean it in more suitable conditions.

The selection can be done, whatever is more convenient for you, you can even use the same knife for which this sheath is made. At the same time, check how convenient it is to work with wood with this knife - what if you have to wooden spoon cut out? :-)

Mutant 03-01-2007 18:52

At home, I use a small knife and a pair of semicircular chisels.

In fact, there are now many attachments for drills, burrs and other files.

The final stage of processing the mouth of the sheath.

Mutant 03-01-2007 18:55

If you still weren’t able to accurately fit the mouth to the handle, that’s also not a big deal. In this case, a strip of fabric impregnated with epoxy can be glued to the mouth from the inside. Wrapping the knife plastic film- the epoxy does not stick to it, and we press the fabric to the mouth of the sheath. The gaps are minimal, neither snow nor sand will get in.

After this, the sheath is pre-planed from the outside. The wall thickness is left somewhere on the order of 2-5 mm.

Mutant 03-01-2007 18:58

Near the mouth of the scabbard we leave a border of approximately 5x5 mm on the outside. It is needed to attach the suspension loops. (If you plan to cover the scabbard with leather and attach the pendant to it, then the side is not necessary.) Under it, when gluing, we wrap the scabbard in several layers with nylon threads or thin rope, and impregnate it with epoxy for strength. The fact is that when inserting a knife with a jam, the handle tries to push the halves of the sheath apart, and the contour glue seam may not be enough.
From the side of the tip (the part of the sheath opposite the mouth) we drill 3-5 holes and “stitch” the sheath along them with the same threads - also for strength. You can put small rivets or use wire. You can try flaring the tubes - to hang the knife down with the handle, the reliability of the fastening actually allows this.
Ventilation hole in the tip you can do it, you can not. On the one hand, if there is a hole, the water that gets in flows out on its own, improving the ventilation of the blade. On the other hand, if there is no hole, and the sheath is well glued, when it falls into water, an air bag will form in the sheath, which can keep a not very heavy knife afloat.
The sheath is ready for gluing.

Mutant 03-01-2007 19:01

And if manufactured in field conditions, in the absence of glue, it is enough to wrap the halves of the sheath with rope or thread, attach a loop under the belt - and the sheath can already be used for its intended purpose.
After the glue has dried, the scabbard is finally processed, sanded and impregnated with drying oil or flaxseed.

Rumoko 03-01-2007 19:09

Thanks, very interesting!

Mutant 03-01-2007 19:09

A suspension or belt loop is sewn from leather. The design of the suspension was taken from an old article in the magazine "Hunting and Hunting" - http://basurman.boxmail.biz/cgi-bin/guide.pl?action=article&id_razdel=69423&id_article=113843
Yes, the loops into which the sheath is inserted need to be sewn tighter so as not to accidentally lose the knife along with the sheath. Otherwise they will get wet, weaken, and only one suspension will remain on the belt...
Decoration - to the best of your ability and desire.

Mutant 03-01-2007 19:14

You can make the design even more reliable by covering the sheath with leather. For example, like this:

In this case, they continue to hold the knife normally even if the wood cracks. And you can do without glue at all.
These scabbards are over 50 years old; the wood, apparently, is ordinary birch, not impregnated with anything. Actually, on this knife I appreciated the convenience and reliability of the wooden sheath.

PPa 03-01-2007 20:06

One can only add that not only the suspension, but also the manufacturing technology of the sheath itself (even stitching) is based on an article from the O&O of the seventies. Then in 78-79 the editors raised the topic of a hunting knife. Then, like many, I fell ill with Altai, how many craftsmen were tortured
But in my experience, the most reliable durable sheath is made of two materials, soft and hard, i.e. The example of the second, given by the author, is preferable. The frame is cracked, but the sheath is alive. Moreover, it happens the other way around, the hard material is on top. For narrow working knives in the South. In America, for example, you often find scabbards made of leather, most of which are coated with metal on the outside, the scabbard is safe, and without a blade it bends normally without breaking.

Mutant 03-01-2007 20:23

I won’t deny it; of course, I read the article. And he shook his head.

And the very first sheath, made before that, towards the end of the 70s, without sizing, rough and clumsy, wrapped in electrical tape, alas, has not survived.

This same technology, in my opinion, is so simple and successful that I see no point in making purely cosmetic changes, such as oval holes instead of round ones.
Although you can try...
Instead of flashing the tip, use wire, make a step inside...

Alex_2006 03-01-2007 21:30

Mutant: Well, my friend, you give...
Only a wooden sheath gives a 100 percent guarantee that you will not stab yourself to death.
And leather... given the total shortage of thick leather, this is very problematic. Still needed wooden insert with all that it implies... Of course there is plastic, you know, a certain dissonance of style... For me, wood rolls forever! So, I am completely like-minded with you!

bayan 03-01-2007 23:56

Before gluing, I advise you to immediately cut one of the scabbard halves along the outer contour, so that later you don’t accidentally cut it to nothing.

Goblin 04-01-2007 03:15

Perhaps reasonable.

V.Vegera 04-01-2007 15:36

The Swedish-Norwegians also did not shy away from wooden ones.

Mutant 07-01-2007 20:55

quote: Originally posted by V.Vegera:
Well, not only Siberians did such things
The Swedish-Norwegians also did not shy away from wooden ones.

Or did I just not get it?

McS 07-01-2007 22:39

And I make it easier :-)
Realistically, excluding gluing time, it’s an hour’s work. I’ll do the next ones, I’ll take pictures of everything if I’m not too lazy :-)

Mutant 08-01-2007 21:08

And I make it easier :-)
I cut out everything inside with a chisel, without worrying about the exact fit. Well, then, wrap the knife in cellophane, cold weld it on top, and leave it between the halves of the future sheath in a vice for 20 minutes :-). It is molded exactly according to the knife, you can’t cut it out, you can’t adjust it. And on top, at the mouth, I glue a strip of leather in a circle.
Realistically, excluding gluing time, it’s an hour’s work. I’ll do the next ones, I’ll take pictures of everything if I’m not too lazy :-)

I thought about the skin at the mouth, but never got around to trying it. And now I don’t want to - I can adjust the mouth quite accurately, the main thing is not to rush. But it’s an interesting option, maybe someone will like it.

Regarding the molding: you still need to adjust it so that the handle has a margin for the depth of fit into the sheath. There's a cone anyway...
Otherwise you’ll want to climb through the windfall and splash around in the river, but the knife won’t wedge any tighter. Ordinary, right?

McS 08-01-2007 23:39

It's stuck so much that I can't get it out :-))))))))))))

Mutant 09-01-2007 14:46

quote: Originally posted by McS:
It's stuck so much that I can't get it out :-))))))))))))

Actually yes. And about 20 years of operation - no wear is noticeable. But with a reserve it’s somehow calmer.
What if it shows up in 25 years?

V.Vegera 09-01-2007 18:20

Yeah, only wood was replaced with plastic - Mores, Frosts, Erics...
On the original ones - leather and metal, rarely wooden with a leather mouth.
Or did I just not get it?

I haven’t seen it for a long time, the old people indulged in this, and the new generation chooses Pepsi, damn it. (((I’ll show you.

PPa 09-01-2007 18:46

Mutant 09-01-2007 20:42

Puka.

Yeah, that's it.
And the thing is clearly deserved, not new...

McS 09-01-2007 21:31

And it was done in an interesting way :-)

cobbvd 09-01-2007 22:48

And I made a scabbard from bamboo. Sorry, no photos...

SavaiNN 10-01-2007 13:14

I made wooden ones...but not from two halves, but from a whole log. I don’t know what kind of wood it was, the core was soft and porous, it was easy to pick out, the place where the handle is fixed was covered with leather for better fixation.

Val13 18-01-2007 19:34

I finished finishing the knife - it lay there for more than a year (there was nothing to cut the saw with) and the question immediately arose about the sheath. I also decided to build wooden ones. The process itself was captured on a mobile phone (always at hand). Wood - thuja, impregnated with Pinotex (I also impregnated the skin with it, I liked it). Knife length 255, blade 125, thickness 4. Forged steel ШХ15, strip immediately hardened to 60, silumin, walnut, stainless steel tubes, pinotex

Goblin 19-01-2007 11:34

Hmmm... The knife is creepy... (no offense intended)

Mutant 19-01-2007 13:45

quote: Originally posted by Goblin:
Hmmm... The knife is creepy... (no offense intended)

Yes, the knife is unique, let’s say so.
By the way, only a wooden or plastic sheath can tolerate a saw on the butt.

Val13 19-01-2007 17:40

That’s why I settled on a wooden sheath. I don’t like plastic, besides, this knife will most likely have to work even in winter in the north, and plastic doesn’t like the cold. By the way, if anyone noticed, in the 3rd picture there is a very successful device for roughly removing wood. I came across it by chance - I was looking for something to clean up a tree without risking my hands. Instrumentally, this is the most common rapid cutter for metal with standard(!) sharpening. Due to its semicircular shape, it takes smoothly, without sharp holes, and the standard sharpening for metal, as it turns out, has a self-breaking effect on wood - the cutter does not dig in and does not rip the workpiece out of your hands. The gain in time, especially on large workpieces, is dozens of times (in a day we managed to peel off a workpiece, but a month had been spent on the same one before that). Just under no circumstances sharpen the cutter more than sharp corner! The consequences of this are the saddest

grga 23-01-2007 01:38

It’s still risky for your hands. I can’t say what the problem is, whether it’s the hardness of specific rocks or the direction of the fibers, but there were sad cases with the original sharpening (for metal). Not from anyone’s words. Even the cutter was similar.
Val, what kind of products are you gnawing on, not for carvers?

Val13 23-01-2007 13:45

To avoid the digging effect, the rake angle should be 0 or slightly negative. Perhaps that cutter has already been sharpened. And I’ve been working with wood for 40 years, and for the last 10 I’ve been a cabinet maker, and when I had to cut a front mullion for an oak staircase, and the freaks (!) glued the package together for me from knotty wood, and even across it (it was easier for them that way), here’s this cutter for me strong and useful. I put it on the grinder and... I managed to finish the stripping in a day

grga 24-01-2007 02:30

Everything goes forward and only the problems in the carpentry do not change. I looked at the pillar, crying

Mutant 24-01-2007 11:34

That’s why I settled on a wooden sheath. I don’t like plastic, besides, this knife will most likely have to work even in winter in the north, and plastic doesn’t like the cold. By the way, if anyone noticed, in the 3rd picture there is a very successful device for roughly removing wood. I came across it by chance - I was looking for something to clean up a tree without risking my hands. Instrumentally, this is the most common rapid cutter for metal with standard(!) sharpening. Due to its semicircular shape, it takes smoothly, without sharp holes, and the standard sharpening for metal, as it turns out, has a self-breaking effect on wood - the cutter does not dig in and does not rip the workpiece out of your hands. The gain in time, especially on large workpieces, is dozens of times (in a day we managed to peel off a workpiece, but a month had been spent on the same one before that). Just under no circumstances sharpen the cutter to a sharper angle! The consequences of this are the saddest

I remember the name - backed cutters. The back surface of the tooth is radiated, and such a cutter requires sharpening only along the front surface of the tooth.

And the machine park was appreciated.
But how is it with TB?

Val13 24-01-2007 13:58

While I was an amateur, I constantly flew in with my hands. And in just 10 years, not a single new hole (pah-pah) has been added. Maybe because I make the adaptations for the instrument myself and always know in advance exactly what to expect from it and what to fear?

SanDude 25-01-2007 13:25

Which scabbard is generally better, wooden or leather? I understand that everyone has their own taste, but still, who has had both types of sheaths will share their feelings?

McS 25-01-2007 15:04

Combined :-)

Varnas 25-01-2007 17:30

I've made sheaths out of wood before, but I did the last two like this. I take a sheet of Teflon ~ 1 mm thick, cut out a piece and wrap it around the blade. If the knife is 30 mm wide, then I usually cut a piece 75-80 mm wide. I treat the outer surface with coarse sandpaper and make deep marks with the tip of a knife. The most difficult part of the work is the back of the blade, since Teflon of such thickness is elastic and hard. And it doesn’t soften due to temperature. To make the bend radius smaller, I additionally compress the bend with pliers. When I form the sheath itself on the blade, I tighten the Teflon itself with narrow strips of adhesive tape. I tighten it with force so that the knife does not fall out. After this I wrap the jeans soaked in epoxy (I dilute the epoxy with alcohol) 1-2 layers, the mouth of the sheath 3-4. There is no need to specially degrease it - the epoxy sticks to Teflon anyway.
Esplotation - on my nose it’s been like this for about 3-4 months - the pulling effort does not change. I made it for my brother to use as a dagger, we’ll see. Another plus of the sheath is that it is difficult to get the knife dirty so that it cannot be pulled out; when I made the second sheath, I was surprised that the knife was very difficult to pull out - after all, when it was wrapped in cloth, it was pulled out much easier. It turns out some of the epoxy leaked out and stuck to the blade.
The disadvantage of current is that Teflon is difficult to obtain. I don’t work at the institute now - where can I cheat?

Mutant 27-01-2007 16:08

quote: Originally posted by aziat:
Scandinavians.

Not that!
Here, it seems, only the blade is in wood, and the handle, as usual, is in leather.
That is, one of the main advantages - fixation on the handle, the blade is free - is lost.
Just imagine: a knife in a sheath lies on the ground, you step on it (by accident, of course, but that doesn’t happen in field life), and what happens?
In combined sheaths (blade in wood, handle in leather), as well as in simple leather sheaths, the entire load is concentrated on the area of the blade near the bolster, right? That is, a groan is quite possible... and a lot of emotional statements.
With a wooden scabbard, the scabbard itself must first say damage, only then can damage to the blade occur.
For example, a sheath with a wall thickness of 3-4 mm can easily withstand my weight - more than 90.

quote: Originally posted by McS:
Combined :-)
Seriously, but not like in the photo above (by the way, where from???), but made of wooden planks, covered with leather. IMHO, of course, but I can argue with reason :-)

I think I agree.
And Ppa said well about this.
Although it would also be interesting to argue...

McS 28-01-2007 01:07

You'll bet :-)
I also made it from fabric in resin. Lightweight, comfortable. You cover it with leather on top - the height of perfection :-)
An ordinary plastic bag wrapped with tape can easily replace Teflon. To be sure, you can lubricate the top with a thin layer of any oil.
But, if you are used to a rigid separator, then you can look for sheet fluoroplastic in the markets. It can be different, from 0.1mm. It may well replace Teflon, and perhaps it will be even better

Mutant 12-02-2007 10:46

This is a very useful topic. I found an article about a wooden scabbard and wanted to take one. The photos were very helpful.
I'll finish it soon.

I hope you won't be disappointed.
The wood used was pine?

Comrade Sukhov 12-02-2007 12:54

The mouth itself still needs to be improved. It didn’t turn out quite straight, but the handle holds very well.

PPa 12-02-2007 20:54

No statements Knife into the garden. The assumption is fictitious, he deliberately trampled on a small Finn from Fiskars placed on the stone floor, no consequences

Mutant 13-02-2007 22:34

quote: Originally posted by Ppa:
“Just imagine: a knife in a sheath lies on the ground, you step on it (by accident, of course, but that doesn’t happen in field life), and what happens?
In combined sheaths (blade in wood, handle in leather), as well as in simple leather sheaths, the entire load is concentrated on the area of the blade near the bolster, right? That is, a groan is quite possible... and a lot of emotional statements."
No statements Knife into the garden. The assumption is fictitious, he deliberately trampled on a small Finn from Fiskars placed on the stone floor, no consequences

I’m probably behind the times, I don’t understand something...
Fictional... Oh, damn it!
I don’t remember verbatim, of course, but the intonation is usually calm person trying by the light of a fire to build something like a knife from a piece of debris, wire and scrap wood - remember...

Previously, I had to go to different companies. The situation is not uncommon - at a rest stop someone needs a knife, obviously no one has it at hand. Or in a parking lot - there are knives, but they are in use, they need more, they don’t matter. Not giving yours is not always possible. Once you get distracted, you find your favorite knife just lying on the ground (well, it fell, what’s wrong), or stuck in the ground (it’s easy to stumble). Far-fetched? If someone really steps on you and there is a crash, it will be too late to lecture about the culture of handling knives... It’s my own fault, I didn’t pay attention.

A knife to the garden... In the 80s, it was somehow impossible to choose Fiskars or not Fiskars.
They did it the best they could, and from what they had.
And if the blade has a maximum thickness of 2.3 mm, the slopes from the butt are up to 0.2 mm, and the steel is a bit dry (it holds an edge well, edits well, you have to put up with other limitations). I’m used to it myself, and I’m not embarrassed to cut bones with it, but I really wouldn’t want to test whether it can withstand it or not by stepping on it. I’ve somehow gotten used to it, over nearly 20 years... I keep wanting to send it “retirement” (on the shelf), but no, no, and I’m tempted to compare it with the new ones, the cut is too good...
What is the merit of the sheath that the knife was not lost and is still alive - I won’t say, but it is there, that’s for sure.
Do you have better knives? We can only rejoice.
And such situations are excluded? I’m even more glad, one might say I’m envious.

And on the ground the deflection may be greater than on a hard floor. Once, in a similar situation (it happened during the morning preparations), a kitchen appliance was broken, which in general should not have broken. And considering that the second of the three kitchenettes was simply forgotten in the parking lot two days before...

And then everything went wrong... And a year later the Union collapsed.

Mutant 13-02-2007 22:56

quote: Originally posted by Comrade Sukhov:
Looks like pine. There were some pieces of furniture lying around the house.
Already near the mouth, I wrapped it with threads with epoxy, stitched it from the bottom and a little on the sides with nylon threads and glue.
The mouth itself still needs to be improved. It didn’t turn out quite straight, but the handle holds very well.

The only thing that confuses me is that pine is not the best the best option both for the knife handle and sheath. IMHO.
And the mouth - you can try to widen it, make a uniform gap of 1-1.5 mm, and use fabric with epoxy all around. We press with the handle of a knife wrapped in polyethylene - the epoxy will not stick to it.

HAY 13-02-2007 23:15

question? How to glue wooden decorative scabbards. They seem to be seamless.

Val13 13-02-2007 23:24

There is a seam on them, but due to the fact that they are made from one piece of wood, and then carefully cut with a thin saw and then carefully adjusted, the seam is not visible. By the way, if you put a piece of copy paper between the handle of the knife and the sheath when adjusting, then the handle itself will draw places on the sheath that need to be improved.

Isragever 13-02-2007 23:31

quote: Originally posted by cobbvd:
And I made a scabbard from bamboo. Sorry, no photos...

Can you tell us more about the sheath manufacturing technology? Thank you

HAY 13-02-2007 23:32

I also noticed that if they have a bad seam (or I’m wrong, maybe they do it on purpose) they insert silver. the wire and the tip of the sheath are also in metal

It should be enough for a season or two, depending on the use, and then either the material will come across, or you will be disappointed and find a better option...

Comrade Sukhov 14-02-2007 23:11

the wood jams the knife very strongly. Maybe it just seems so out of habit.

MagnuM 14-02-2007 23:23

I've been wanting to do something like this for a long time. There are dry, smooth oak planks, is it worth taking them or looking for something else?

Val13 14-02-2007 23:46

Oak, IMHO, is fragile for this purpose, and there may also be microcracks, especially if it is from Western Ukraine. And you can make it from Caucasian or Crimean. It’s hard to say offhand, although there is a simple test - try to squeeze the corner of one of the boards a little with pliers or in a vice. If it holds the load, go to work, but if it strives to scatter along the fibers into dust, then only to the stove

MagnuM 15-02-2007 12:04

quote: Originally posted by Val13:
Oak, IMHO, is fragile for this purpose, and there may also be microcracks, especially if it is from Western Ukraine. And you can make it from Caucasian or Crimean. It’s hard to say offhand, although there is a simple test - try to squeeze the corner of one of the boards a little with pliers or in a vice. If it holds the load, go to work, but if it strives to scatter along the fibers into dust, then only to the stove

In general, oak is the most common one from the Ryazan region. Should I make it out of it, or just a ftop?

Val13 15-02-2007 12:34

You need to try it by squeezing it, by slightly bending it in your hands - to see if any cracks appear, or if there is a characteristic crackling sound. But in general oak is from middle zone Russia is much better than the West

MagnuM 15-02-2007 12:46

quote: Originally posted by Val13:
You need to try it by squeezing it, by slightly bending it in your hands - to see if any cracks appear, or if there is a characteristic crackling sound. But in general, oak from central Russia is much better than Western oak

Thanks for the answer. I can hardly influence it with my hands ( faster than your hands they will start to crackle), but I’ll try it with a vice.

Mutant 15-02-2007 10:10

quote: Originally posted by Comrade Sukhov:
I'll try drying oil. It definitely won't make things worse.
Question for the experts on such sheaths: what is the best thing to do at the mouth?
cloth on epoxy or a strip of leather?
the wood jams the knife very strongly. Maybe it just seems so out of habit.

I didn’t do the mouth with the skin, so I can’t say anything about it.
As for the density of fixation, it is adjustable. You simply release the knife into the sheath under its own weight - it hardly locks in place, and easily falls out when turning the sheath over. This is often used at work when you need to free your hands.
If you push with force, the knife no longer falls out when you turn the sheath over, but it still comes out relatively easily. It is enough to grab it close to the sheath so that the thumb and forefinger rest against the mouth and squeeze your fingers - the knife should be easy to reach. It really “jumps out” for me.
Well, if you have to wade through a windfall, shake on a horse or flounder in deep snow, the main thing here is not to lose the knife. You grab the collar of the sheath with your fingers and try to push the knife deeper with your palm. Here the fixation is complete, you have to reach it with both hands, resting your thumbs against each other.

Comrade Sukhov 15-02-2007 10:41

Do you carry a knife on your belt?
I regretted that the fungus was small. With good fixation, it would have been more convenient to get it out.

Mutant 15-02-2007 12:15

quote: Originally posted by Comrade Sukhov:
Do you have a mouth with epoxy fabric?
Do you carry a knife on your belt?
I regretted that the fungus was small. With good fixation, it would have been more convenient to get it out.

The mouth with epoxy is the second and third photos, the other sheath is wood only.

I usually wear it on my belt, or on the shoulder strap of a backpack.
As an improvement suggestion, in a fairly wide pendant you can make a slot “under a button”, as the Finns and Norwegians like. You know, Peter, now I’m just thinking about a collapsible version, a similar tip suggests itself. But how to secure it so that you can take it off and put it on?

If you are the proud owner of a permit to carry a knife, a sheath is a must have. If you don't have them, you can make them yourself.

How to make a sheath for a hunting knife?

Usually Hunter knives They are made of Damascus steel, so the sheath must be reliable and strong.

First you need to make a sketch on paper. To do this, place the knife on paper and outline its contours with a pencil.

Then you bend the sheet along the back side of the drawing and cut out the layout along the contour. This is what the final product will look like.

Now take a piece of leather and attach the knife blank to it, the sheath will exactly fit it in size. On the skin you draw the same product, only with a margin of one centimeter on each side. What type of leather can I use? In this example, a chrome-tanned saddle cloth three millimeters thick was used.

Don't forget that you must also cut out the pendant two and a half centimeters wide and the insert one centimeter wide.

The suspension must be made seamless. Any accessible tool make holes in it as shown in the picture below.

Cut off the excess and thread the straps through the holes.

In a piece of a knife pattern, the sheath must be equipped with a hanger. To do this, mark and punch three holes.

The width of the straps should be slightly larger than the size of the holes by approximately two millimeters.

Thread the hangers through the holes.

This way you were able to make a suspension without seams.

To continue working on the knife craft, sand the sheath where the leather bends. After this processing, you can easily fold the workpiece in the center.

Now the product needs to be glued.

You can use any type of glue that sticks to the skin.

You can fasten the edges with clothespins. Wait a while for the glue to set. To continue making knife products, the sheath must be completely dry.

After complete drying, cut off any uneven edges using a knife.

Using grinding machine, straighten uneven ends.

Now you need to make a mixture with which you will saturate the product. To do this, you need to take two measures of vodka and one measure of PVA glue. Stir them together so that the vodka and glue are completely mixed together.

Using a brush, apply the mixture to the craft in several layers.

This impregnation dries within fifteen minutes.

While the craft is still wet, mark the seam lines. This can be done using a fork.

You also mark the pitch of the seams with it.

Using a one-millimeter drill bit and a drill, drill holes for the seams from the front side. In this case, the drill must be kept exclusively in a vertical position.

Now cut a groove, connecting all the holes. In this case, this was done using a special Chinese tool.

Now you can paint the knife craft. The scabbard can, for example, be covered with stain.

Apply stain several times to make the color darker.

Once the sheath is dry, sand it with sandpaper, increasing the size. First use size one hundred and eighty, then two hundred and forty and then three hundred and twenty. At the end, polish with six hundredth.

Sew the product through the holes using waxed thread in two needles, the type of seam is saddle.

Now you need to soak the knife sheath with shoe wax.

All is ready!

Sheath for camping knife

When you go out into nature or on a longer vacation, for example, to the sea, you always take with you such a necessary and irreplaceable item as a knife. To prevent it from tearing the material or the walls of the bag, its blade is wrapped with a rag or newspaper. However, you can do it easier - make a sheath for it, and then you won’t have such a problem. Below we will describe and show how to make a sheath.

What materials will you need?

Cotton fabric that must first be impregnated with resin.
A piece of good quality hard leather.
Durable needle and thread made of nylon.
Stationery clothespins.
Awl.
Pliers.
Drill.
Thin drill.
Calipers.
Well sharpened knife.
Well sharpened cutter.
A piece of strong wire.
Shoe polish for polishing crafts.

How to do it?

First you need to make a solid tab using cotton fabric. Cover the tip of the knife with paraffin and form a tab on it.

Now cut out a piece of leather of a suitable size and thoroughly moisten it. Then you put the tab on the knife and place it in the center of the cut piece of leather.

You wrap this piece around the knife and secure the ends with clothespins along the seam. Wait until the skin is completely dry.

After complete drying, remove the clothespins.

Now you can start stitching the product. To do this, use an awl to make two holes where the bend begins. You insert the thread into the holes from both sides, resulting in one stitch.

Insert the thread into the same holes in reverse order to create a second stitch.

Use an awl to mark the places where the remaining holes will be located. Make sure they are spaced evenly.

Using a drill and a thin drill bit, drill holes.

Continue stitching the product. If the needle is difficult to come out, use pliers to help remove it.

Cut the ends of the threads and melt them over the fire. The hardest part is over.

Use a knife to cut off excess skin, leaving a little for reserve.

Using abrasive sandpaper, process the cut line.

Now you are making a pendant for the sheath. Take a piece of leather and cut out a U-shaped figure from it. Use a knife to cut small holes in the upper part of the workpiece.

Thread the ponytails through the holes at the top.

Now pull the knife out of the craft, and instead of it, insert a wooden stick of the same size. Now mark the places where the mounting holes will be.

Using cutters, make holes according to the marks.

Thread the ends of the suspension into the holes as in the photo below.

Almost everything is ready, just a few steps left.

Adjust the size of the sheath. To do this, wet the knife well and insert it into the craft. Using wire, tie tightly.

Wait until the skin is completely dry and remove the wire.

Now all that remains is to cover the craft with shoe polish. In this case, the knife must be inserted into the sheath, and its handle must be wrapped in a bag.

Third option

In order to make a case of this type, you will need the following materials and tools:

Soft leather of the required size.
Sheet of cardboard.
A simple pencil.
Scissors.
Cutter.
Scotch tape.
Food film.
Kitchen towel.
Hot water in a saucepan.
Clamps.
A strong needle.
Waxed thread.

How to do it?

First, draw a template.

To do this, place the knife on the cardboard and trace its contours using a pencil. There is no need to trace end to end; indent the contours by five millimeters. This will be useful to us if the skin is thick. Now draw the other half as a mirror image of the first. Finish the edge of one drawn half; it will be equal to the length of the handle. This is necessary so that later you can form a loop for closing the sheath.

Now cut out the template along the drawn contours.

Use the back of the blade to determine the exact line for bending the workpiece.

Fold the layout, glue it with tape and try on the knife. This is necessary so that you can adjust the dimensions. Don't forget that cardboard is much thinner than the thinnest type of leather. Make sure that the knife fits easily into the workpiece.

Unfold the craft and transfer its contours to a piece of leather on the side where the suede is located. You can use a pencil for this purpose. Using a cutter, cut out the shape we need.

Wrap the knife with cling film.

Heat water in a saucepan and lower part of the skin into it as shown in the picture. This will give the skin softness.

Dry a piece of wet leather using a towel, then wrap it around the blade and secure the ends with clothespins. Wait for the craft to dry. While the skin is drying, periodically checking that it is the desired shape. If anything happens, adjust the product with your fingers, stretching where necessary.

Once everything is completely dry, remove the clothespins.

Cut off excess or protruding pieces of skin using a cutter. Then you use it to cut out a thin recess where the seam will go.

Mark the places where the stitch holes will be. There should be a distance of no more than five millimeters between the points. Make indentations at each point using an awl or other sharp object.

Sew the other end of the strap to the opposite side of the sheath using a needle and waxed thread. Then sew the outer seam.

All is ready!

Video lessons

A good knife is necessary for every hunter, fisherman and tourist. It is very important that the sharp blade is reliably protected in the field. Every self-respecting hunter has several protective covers, and many hunters prefer to make a knife sheath with their own hands from leather. The ability to work with leather is always useful for a real man, so today in the article we decided to tell you how to make a sheath out of leather with your own hands so that it is comfortable, practical and beautiful.

How to sew a leather sheath with your own hands?

Making a knife case from leather with your own hands is not at all difficult, the main thing is to understand the basic principles of operation. When performing all manipulations, show due diligence and accuracy so that the result pleases you.

Let's divide the whole process into several stages:

Preparatory, which includes preparing materials and tools, as well as making a template.
Making a pattern from leather.
Skin formation.
Preparing for firmware.
Fixing the sheath mount.
Product firmware.

Let's look at each stage in more detail.

Tools and materials for making sheaths

If you have old boots, then their tops can be used to sew a leather sheath with your own hands.

Important! The piece of material must be thick enough and durable.

In addition to leather, you will need the following materials and tools for work:

A piece of thick felt, soaked epoxy resin, or a strip of plastic the size of the blade (2 mm thick) for making an insert.
Two half rings: one large, one small (for attaching the sheath to the belt).
Thin cardboard or thick paper for the pattern.
Scissors.
Scotch.
A sharp knife (scalpel) for cutting out a pattern.
An awl with a hook at the end or a thick leather needle.
Strong thread.
Metal ruler.
A tool for piercing holes in the skin (you can also use improvised means).
Stationery clips (clothespins).
A simple pencil or marker.
Sandpaper for processing cuts.

How to make a template?

To make a template, prepare a piece of thin cardboard (thick paper).

Step-by-step instruction:

Fold a piece of paper in half.
Place a knife on the paper.
Trace the outline of the knife, leaving a distance of 8-10 cm wide on the blade side (seam allowance).
Cut the template so that you only duplicate the outline of the blade. There should be one outline of the handle. IN real life this contour will play the role of a loop for fastening with a half ring.

Important! The width of the template handle should match the prepared half ring.

Try the template on the knife and make sure everything is done correctly. The knife should fit freely into the template without falling out.
If you are happy with everything, then fold the template in half and cut off all excess. The fastening points must be level.
Tape the template around the edges. Place the knife inside the template, move it around to make sure that the blade does not get stuck anywhere and nothing interferes with its movement.

Leather blank

Now it’s time to make a pattern from leather so that you end up with a sheath for a good quality knife:

Draw the pattern along the contour with wrong side. If you are not limited by the length of a piece of leather, then make a pattern with a margin to cut off everything unnecessary in the future.

Important! Leave “ears” along the edges of the sheath, which will later serve as a place for the buttons. The prepared area for the buttons should be such that there is still 1-2 mm of skin left around the bauble button.

On internal corners(where the base of the sheath meets the belt mount) make 2 holes. This is necessary so that during use the leather does not tear at the corners.

Important! To make holes, use a special or improvised tool in the form of a hollow tube of the required diameter.

Cut out the pattern with a sharp knife. It is better to make a straight cut with a cutter using a metal ruler. Before cutting out the pattern, secure it well in the holder.

Important! You can cut the pattern with a special rotary leather knife, razor or surgical scalpel. Sharp and precise actions will eliminate unevenness and stretching of the workpiece and make the cut perfectly even.

Skin formation

In order for the case to take the shape of a knife, it is necessary to add volume to the workpiece. Use the same knife as a form, proceeding as follows:

Take soft cling film and wrap it in several layers around the blade and handle of the knife. The cutter will become a little thicker, but the shape should be maintained.
Heat water in a low bowl, put into it that part of the workpiece, which, in fact, is a sheath. The part of the leather blank with the future fastener does not need to be wetted. After a few minutes, the skin, lowered into water, will begin to bubble. This air penetrates the pores of the skin.
After 20 minutes, remove the workpiece from the water using oven mitts and place it on a kitchen towel.
Blot excess water with a towel, place a knife wrapped in cling film into the wet workpiece.
Secure the edges of the workpiece with paper clips (clothespins) as close to each other as possible.
Using your hands, press the wet leather against the blade and handle to form a sheath in the shape of the knife.

Important! While the workpiece is drying, check several times to see how well the shape is maintained. If necessary, correct the shape by wetting the skin and pressing with your fingers those places where the material does not lie according to your plan.

Leave the workpiece in the clamps overnight.
After the cover is completely dry, remove the clips.

Preparing for firmware

Before sewing a leather sheath, it is necessary to carry out a finishing trim and prepare a groove for the seam. If you have a special rotary knife, this will make the task easier. If there is no such tool, then use the tool you used to cut the leather:

Carefully cut off two layers of the edges of the workpiece. A lot of effort will be required, since you need to cut off two layers of dried and hardened skin. Sand the uneven cut of the leather with sandpaper.
Carefully make a groove on the cover. It is best to use a special tool for this purpose, for example, a semicircular leather chisel with a guide. A homemade chisel made from a needle from a medical syringe will also work.
Mark the groove with a special marking wheel or pencil line. Using a wheel or awl, manually mark the stitching. Choose the stitch pitch yourself - it is best to stick to a stitch length of 0.5 cm.
Place the knife sheath on wooden surface(board), punch holes with an awl. Use a hammer if necessary.
After making holes on the top of the cover, lift up the top edge and make holes on the bottom. The holes must match.

Important! Do not punch both aligned edges of the cover at once so that the holes are not too large.

Make sure all stitch holes are in a straight line.

Fixing the scabbard mount

The sheath can be attached to the belt in several ways:

Belt loop. It's best to sew the belt loop before you start sewing the edges of the cover. Fold the loop strip to the required size (so that the knife does not cause inconvenience when carrying). Make 4-6 exactly matching holes in the top of the valve and on the cover body itself. Take a strong thread and sew a loop.
Half ring. Bend the fastening strip so that the belt fits and there is 1.5-2 cm left for fastening the ring and 1.5 cm for fastening to the base. Place a half ring inside the loop. To attach it, use buttons-baubles and a special tool for clamping them. To secure the mount at the base, buttons are suitable.

Knife sheath seam

Prepare a needle and very strong, strong thread. To sew a decorative stitch on a cover, use the single needle method as follows:

Pull the thread from the bottom into one hole and stitch to the end of the seam.
Work in the opposite direction, making exactly the same stitches. You should get a durable and beautiful finishing stitch.
Fasten the end of the thread firmly. To do this, pass it through the middle of the thread itself, tighten it and secure it between the layers of skin. Cut the thread close to the skin, making sure that the knot does not unravel.
Insert the knife into the sheath and admire the result.
Treat the finished sheath with shoe wax or shoe polish to protect the leather from drying out and give it shine.

Important! You can sew the edges of the sheath using an awl with a hook.

To ready product If you are pleased with the end result, listen to the following tips.

To give the sheath rigidity, you can insert a strip of plastic cut to the shape of the blade inside. To fold the plastic in half, heat the fold line. Plastic seal can be glued to the leather before you sew the knife sheath with thread.

The leather sheath can also be supplemented with an insert made of cotton fabric impregnated with wax. You can also use thick felt to make the liner:

Cut a piece of felt large enough to form the liner and soak it with epoxy glue. To do this: place the liner in a plastic bag and wait for the epoxy to begin to harden.
Protect the blade with masking tape and electrical tape.
Wrap the blade in the prepared felt bag and press lightly. You can press the ends of the liner together with clothespins.
After the resin has hardened, remove the blade from the liner and remove the films from it.
To give the liner the required shape, use a file.
Don't forget to drill a small hole at the toe of the blade to drain any accidentally trapped water.
Place the knife with the finished liner in the center of the wet workpiece and secure the structure with clamps on the side of the future seam.
After the leather has dried, sew the finished leather blank.