Watch YouTube video. How to put winter tires on a bicycle

How to make studded tires for a bicycle with your own hands

If you want to ride a bicycle safely in winter (and not only), then you need to take care of good wheel grip on snow, mud, sand, and ice. You can buy studded tires, or you can make studded tires for your bicycle with your own hands.

In this article, let's look at a more accessible and cheaper option on how to do this.

How to stud tires on a bicycle

Option #1: Tire modification (large tread)

You will need:

• deep tread tire
• Small flat screws (packaging), in this case short wood screws work well

1. Purchase from hardware store packaging of self-tapping screws.

2. Take a drill and a 2-3 mm drill bit. Drill holes in the places where you are going to install the spikes.

3. Try to screw in the self-tapping screw at a perpendicular angle (90 degrees) to the tire; it should not stick out to the side.

• Drill the hole and screw in the screw immediately. When you first screw in the holes and then screw in the screws, finding the holes will take you a lot of time.

4. After these works, glue with reinforced electrical tape inner surface tires (can be in 2 layers). You can also use special anti-puncture tire tapes, which are sold at a bike shop, instead of tape. They will help protect the camera from damage from screw heads.

5. Place the tire on the rim of the bike. Be careful during installation - you may injure your hands.

Option No. 2: Tire modification (small tread)

You will need:

• fine tread bicycle tires
• Packing of short bolts and a set of nuts corresponding to the thread. The bolts should be short, not massive, the nuts should not be more than 1 cm in height.

1. Dismantle the bike wheels and remove the tires from the wheels.

2. Determine the places in the tire where you can install the bolts (they must be screwed between the rubber tread studs, always in the center and preferably along the edges, but not close to the rim).

3. Mark the selected holes with a marker. Drill holes smaller than the thickness of the bolts (they will have to be screwed into the tire, but this way the bolts will not fall through).

4. Using the thread on the outside, screw the bolts into the tire, then screw the nuts onto the bolts from the outside of the tire. Then the nuts and the ends of the bolts will act as tenons.

5. As in the first option, put anti-puncture tape inside the tire or glue it with reinforced electrical tape in a couple of layers.

6. Install the tires and mount the wheels on the bike.

DIY studded tires for a bicycle

Option #3: Use pieces of chain as spikes

You will need:

• Bicycle or other small chain.
• Wire, small bolts and nuts, other metal clamps.

1. This method is simpler, but it is only suitable for bikes with disc brakes.

2. Buy necessary elements.

3. Remove the wheels from the bike, determine the girth size of the rim + tire using a flexible meter.

4. Cut off the chain to the measured length.

5. Secure the cut chains around the rim and tire. This can be done with wire, bolts and nuts, and other metal clamps.

6. Mount the wheels. If suddenly the wheels do not fit into place, remove plastic protection.

• The work of studding tires on a bicycle with your own hands takes a lot of time.
• Do not inflate the wheel chamber very much; a slightly lowered wheel has a larger area of ​​traction with the road surface.
• For stable driving on ice, winding a chain around the wheels is best suited (option No. 3). The wheel should not be wide.
• An old bicycle chain is enough to wrap one thin 28-diameter wheel. During work, use a chain squeezer.
• Even if you put a chain only on the front, and a tire with increased tread on the rear, the resulting bike design will be stable on snow, ice, and sand.
• Do not try to ride on studded tires on rocks - studs will not save you from such a road.
• To properly place a chain on a wheel, first deflate it, and then inflate it once you secure the chain. Increased pressure in the chamber will hold the chain very well.
• Anti-puncture tape can be made from a used tire with a low (slick) tread (bald), cut a strip of the required width from a used tire and put it inside the used one. If this design turns out to be bulky, you can cut a strip from the old tube and place it on rubber glue inside the tire you are using. This tape protects the camera better from punctures than reinforced tape.

Warnings

• You must understand that riding a bicycle on slippery roads (snow, ice, mud), even on a bicycle with such modification of wheels, is fraught with falls and injuries. Therefore, if the road is very slippery and it is difficult to drive along it without falling off your bike, then it is better to use another means of transportation.
• The self-tapping screws have quite sharp edges that can pierce the camera if installed incorrectly or carelessly.
• Studding of rubber is applicable for mountain bikes; it is not advisable to use narrow tires for this purpose.
• Do not overinflate the tires as this may cause you to fall off the bike.
• If you have chosen the 3rd option for studding the wheels, you must understand that if the tube is punctured, you will have to remove pieces of the chain and put it back on after repair.
• Options 1 and 2 are not suitable for tubeless tires; if you drill the tire, you will break its seal.

We hope the article helped with the option of studding tires for a bicycle. Share what you did in the comments. Also watch a useful video on this topic.

velo-tur.net

Making winter tires (mountain bike)

“Ready your sleigh in summer” says a good Russian proverb, but what can a cyclist prepare for winter? Winter tires! Still very useful thing in snow skiing, so if you are not going to close the season, then it is advisable to get such a kit. But if the issue of price stops you, then there is an option, and a very good one - to make winter tires yourself, especially since it is not so difficult.

To do this you will need:

1. Two regular bicycle tires, preferably with a large and not worn out tread pattern;

2. 200 (100 for each wheel) 6x3/8 or 1/4 steel screws (with caps and nuts). The length depends on the tread height of your (future winter) tires;

3. Thick tape, a piece of rubber hose, basically anything that can be inserted with inside tires to protect against puncture by their own future studs;

5. Key or socket for tightening screws

6. Dremel or something similar for sanding screws.

Armed? Then go to battle!

1. First of all, inspect the tires. All attention should be paid to the tread pattern, consider how you will position the screws (it is advisable to place them both in the center and on the sides). I chose this scheme:

2. Drill the designated areas with a drill (thin drill)

3. Screw the screws into the resulting holes; if you can’t do it by hand, use a screwdriver

4. Repeat the previous step again, again and again... Until you get the complete picture, for example like in the photo

5. The screws will probably go right through, be sure to check the inside

This is why we need a Dremel, sand the ends of the screws until they become smooth and will not come out of the rubber

6. Place a thick tape, a piece of rubber hose or other protection on the inside from a possible puncture (even if polished) by a screw, feel free to place it on the rim and quickly go outside to check your creation! Good luck riding, don't leave your bikes alone on the balcony!

www.cyclepedia.ru

In this video I will tell you in detail how to stud an old tire with self-tapping screws. Ready for winter rides))

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Winter came and I had to do something with the bike so as not to fall on the ice. I could buy ready-made studded bicycle tires - it would cost me 4-5 thousand rubles. Not only because of the thirst to save money, but also from the eternal desire to do something with my own hands, I decided to make winter bicycle tires myself.

Purchased: 2 budget tires for 250 rubles each. each; 400 pcs. 13 mm. self-tapping screws (about 100 rubles).

Tires were chosen with large “teeth” so that self-tapping screws could fit comfortably into them. The tire had a total of 80+140+80 teeth. I didn’t want to screw in 300 self-tapping screws, so I inserted one screw into the side rows. As a result, about 190-200 screws were inserted into each tire. This made the tires about 200 grams heavier.

So, the tires have been purchased, and the screws too. We need to get to work. First you need to make guide holes in the tires. Without them, the screws will often go crooked and come out in the wrong place. It is very important that the screws “peek out” from the center of the “tooth” - this will extend the life of the tire. To do this, I took a drill and started drilling holes. It was, to put it mildly, difficult, so I came up with new way: I clamped the nail with pliers, heated it over the fire and used it to make holes in the tires. It was no longer difficult, but it still took a lot of time. And then a brilliant idea came to my mind - making holes with an awl! I didn’t have an awl at home, so I had to buy it. Making holes with an awl is the best option.

The holes are ready, it's time to screw in the screws. I bought 13 mm self-tapping screws with a press washer. It is very important to buy with a press washer, because... only they have a fairly wide “hat”. I screwed the screws into the tire with a regular screwdriver. I didn't turn the tire inside out. The main thing is that the screws are screwed in evenly. There is no need to plant them with glue. The self-tapping screw needs to be screwed in so that at the exit it slightly bends the rubber under itself with the thread.

Here's what I got:

The last photo shows that on the side rows the screws are inserted one after another. In the center, too, sometimes there are empty teeth, the order there is: 1-2-1-1-2-1-1-2-1, etc.

The screws are screwed in, let's move on. Now they need to be sharpened. I didn't have a sharpener, so I asked a friend to sharpen the tenons. The self-tapping screws were very strong and the sharpener was more likely to wear off than they were. But, anyway, we managed to sharpen them. One tire had slightly longer studs; I put it on the front wheel, because it carries less load and the quality of handling depends on it. The side row of screws can be ground less (the main thing is that they are not sharp), because they will only work when turning. A tire with machined screws looks like this:

The screws are screwed in and ground, but that's not all. To prevent the screw heads from damaging the camera, you need to make a lining. To do this, I brutally cut two cells - one old and one, dare I say it, new. Now you can assemble the wheel. When placing the camera, be careful not to scratch it on the spikes.

Yesterday I tested my homemade winter bike tires, riding about 25 km on snow and about 35 km on asphalt. When driving on asphalt, a rather loud noise is created, but this cannot be called a big drawback. When driving on snow and ice, the tires showed their best performance - while friends on regular tires constantly fell on the ice, I drove absolutely without bothering, as if on asphalt. If you compare studded tires with regular ones, albeit with an evil tread, In emergency braking, the difference is simply monstrous. Heaven and earth! With studded tires, when braking sharply at high speed on ice, it does not skid at all; the studs leave a deep mark on the ice.

There is only one drawback - it is difficult to maintain a high driving speed and a little more difficult to drive in general. This is felt when driving on asphalt, but driving on ice/snow is a real pleasure.

When winter came and it became impossible to drive on summer tires, I was faced with a problem - I needed studded tires. Having considered the options for factory tires from Nokian and their prices, I firmly decided to stud the tires myself. Having scoured the Internet, I came across one detailed description of wheel studding, but that option did not inspire me at all, since the labor intensity did not quite correspond to the result obtained. Later I read on some forum a mention of the possibility of studding using self-tapping screws. Having decided to work on this idea, I rushed to the shops. So, in the end we purchased:

• 2 KENDA KINETICS tires - 460 rubles pcs;
• 3 tubes rubber glue- 30 rubles pcs;
• 220 self-tapping screws - ~50rub;

To install the screws, I chose rows of treads running on the sides of the central part of the tire. To begin with, I had to drill holes in the appropriate places with a drill with a diameter of 2 mm. (I would like to warn you that there is no need to drill large holes!) In total, there are more than 108 holes in the tire. Next, you need to degrease the inside of the tire; for this I used smelly acetone. (Remember, all work with such nasty stuff as acetone must be done in a ventilated area and preferably with gloves and goggles. Those who are most concerned about their health can wear a rubber apron). Now we take glue and coat the screws with it and screw them into the inside of the tire. Believe me, it is not difficult, the self-tapping screws, lubricated with glue, are easily screwed into the intended holes. After all the self-tapping screws are screwed in, you need to wait time for the glue to “set.” At this time, we take the camera and cut strips 5 centimeters wide from it. We wash them of talc, dry them and degrease them. By this time, the glue on the screws should already have dried (30 minutes is enough) and we will proceed to the second part of production winter tires. We coat the inside of the tire and the cut strip from the unnecessary tube with glue. Let it sit for a couple of minutes and glue the rubber strip inside the tire, right on top of the screw heads. I advise you to glue in small sections of 10-20 cm, this makes it easier to deal with quick-drying glue. It is necessary to ensure that the rubber strip fits tightly to the tire in all places. After this, you can leave the tire to dry for 20 hours.

The mighty heads of the self-tapping screws appear under the rubber strip.

Here you are holding your first homemade tire in your hands, but something clearly confuses you... Oh, yes! The sharp screws sticking out a centimeter remind you of wheels from racing motorcycles for ice tracks! This can be fixed. Find the most powerful nippers and bite off the excess. You need to bite off so that about 3-5 mm remains on the outside. It won’t work out exactly anyway, you don’t have to try. To be honest, the most painful procedure in the manufacture of these tires is precisely the shortening of the protruding screws. Moreover, this is proportional to the hardness of the metal of the screws. The total time to make one tire is approximately 8 hours, but it is worth it, so be patient and strong.

Some tips for using these tires.

• 1. Always inflate the tubes in such tires to the maximum, otherwise, when hitting a hard object, the tire will “pierce” the screw head to the rim, and this will result in two holes in the tube at once. So far I have been experimenting with pressure, punching the chamber three times, and each punch produces two holes.
• 2. Remember - the tires you made are not a complete analogue of the WXC 300 :), so don’t forget and drive carefully.
• 3. Do not leave the tires wet for a long time, the screws will begin to rust.
• 4. In any case, show off your custom tires to people you know and not so well.

Now my observations and feelings:

When riding a bicycle through mud and snow, you often have to overcome places where it is difficult even to walk. It is for crossing impassable off-road terrain that you need studded tires on a bicycle.

By the number of studs, bicycle tires should be selected depending on where you will ride most often. If in the city, where the roads are more or less cleared, then a minimum of studs on a bicycle tire, arranged in two rows, is sufficient. The choice is simple: the more dirt and ice there is on the road, the more spikes there should be.

It is important to know that after changing summer tires to studded tires, the total weight of the bike increases. This is not surprising, because the spikes are made of metal and there are many of them, although they are small.

Steel spikes

Studded bicycle tires are primarily distinguished by the presence of steel hooks. From 100 to 400 studs are installed on one tire. They are assembled from two parts: a glass with a flange and a carbide pin. Glasses are stamped from mild steel or aluminum. They are needed to secure the pin in soft rubber. The pins are made of an alloy of iron with tungsten carbide (WC) and an admixture of niobium and titanium carbides (NbC, TiC). This alloy is known as “win.” To completely wear out the pobedit studs, you will need to drive at least 4 winters on cleared roads.

For installation in cups with a seat, the pins are wedge-shaped. They can have a flat top for muddy rides or a pointed top for good traction on ice.

Over time, the flat and pointed pins will develop the same rounded shape. When driving on asphalt roads, there is practically no difference in wear rates between the two types of studs. A big difference in the rate of wear between different studs is observed when traveling on the ground. Sharp spikes wear out faster when driving on the ground, due to greater penetration into the ground. But they hold up better on ice and packed snow.

Low temperature compound

Real winter bicycle tires are not made of rubber at all, since it hardens in the cold to the elasticity of plastic. And the tire must have good grip on frozen ground or compacted snow and ice. Winter tires are made from a compound - a material that retains elasticity and elasticity during sub-zero temperatures. They are marked "W" or "Winter". Like all soft rubber tires, they tend to self-clean.

On products, the presence of the compound is indicated by the “Winter” marking. The Nokian company, which changed its name to Suomityre, adopted the marking “Winter rubber 58A”, where 58 is an indicator of the hardness of the compound. The manufacturer uses a base compound labeled “SBC”.

Double-row and multi-row

Studded tires are divided into two types: double-row and multi-row. The number of rows of studs on a tire determines the style of cycling.

On two-row roads you need to drive through ice at a lower speed. Especially if the rows of spikes on them are spaced far apart. These tires are designed for fast driving on the road surface in winter. Their side studs work best when cornering. And before leaving on the ice, you need to dismount and reduce the pressure in the chambers so that the spikes installed far from each other can bite into the ice layer.

Double-row tires with studs set close to the center line are universal for driving on asphalt roads and ice. But you can’t move on the road as quickly as on a two-row with widely spaced spikes. There are reviews that say that during sharp braking, apparently on asphalt, the pins break out of them along with the cups.

Double-row tires are cheaper than multi-row tires and are a little lighter, because they have less iron installed. Of course, you need to ride on ice on these bike tires more carefully than on multi-row studs. Without making sharp turns and without sudden braking.

Four-row winter tire Schwalbe Ice Spiker HS 333. Produced in one size - 26x2.10 inches. It has 304 spikes and weighs 1 kg. Price – 118 dollars

Double-row tire Schwalbe Snow Stud HS 264 with widely spaced studs. Available in one size – 26×1.90 inches. It has 102 spikes and weighs 980 grams. Price – $78

Two-row Suomityres (Nokian) Stud A10 with widely spaced spikes. Available in four sizes: 26×1 1/2×2 – 62 studs, 26×1.5 – 100 studs, 28×1.5 – 76 studs, 28×1 5/8×1.5 – 74 studs

Tire for city and touring bicycles Suomityres Hakkapeliitta W106 with narrow installed spikes. Produced in diameters of 26 and 28 inches, sizes 26×1.9, 28×700×45С, 700×35С. There are 106 spikes installed on it, as indicated by the markings. Relatively inexpensive - $50

Schwalbe Winter double-row city tire with narrowly spaced studs. Available in four sizes: 26x1.75, 700x30C, 700x35C, 700x40C. Depending on the size, it has from 100 to 120 spines. Weighs about 1 kg. Price – $59

Folding, tubeless tires

Nowadays, the technology of manufacturing folding tires is used, in which the cord is not wound with metal wire, but is woven from Kevlar thread.

There are two “cool” studded tires on sale and the only ones that are folding in their structure. They can be installed on the rim without a tube using special glue.

Four-row folding spike Suomityres WXC300. Has a size of 26×2.2. The lightest tire in its class - weighs 750 grams. It has 304 studs installed

Five-row tire Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro HS 379. Available in several versions: 26×2.10 – 361 studs, 26×2.35 – 361 studs, 29×2.10 – 402 studs. Depending on the size, it weighs only 695, 850, 890 grams. The highest price is $168

Tread design

If you carefully compare the tread patterns of many tires, you will notice a pattern. The fact is that there are two types of protectors:

1. positive – the total area of ​​the lugs is equal to or greater than the area of ​​the grooves;
2. negative - the lugs are high and occupy a smaller area compared to the total area of ​​the furrows.

Tires designed for driving on road surfaces have positive tread. In addition, it forms an even treadmill along the longitudinal axis. For example: the Continental Nordic Spike cross-country tire, with a tread pattern characteristic of mountain bikes, has an additional chain of lugs along the treadmill axis.

Cross studded tire Continental Nordic Spike. Has a size of 28×1.6. Supplied in two or four rows with 120 or 240 spikes. Weighs 850 or 900 grams. Cost – $75

Urban four-row stud Schwalbe Marathon Winter HS 396. Available in sizes: 20×1.60, 24×1.75, 26×1.75, 26×2.00, 700×35C, 700×40C, 28×2.00. Depending on the size, it weighs from 900 to 1300 grams. Price – 87 dollars

To navigate rough terrain with deep snow or mud, tires must have negative tread to prevent them from becoming clogged with mud and able to dig down to solid ground.

Nokian Extreme off-road tire. Available in two sizes: 26×2.1 and 29×2.1. It contains 294 spikes in six rows

Continental Spike Claw off-road tire. Manufactured in dimensions 26×2.1. May have two or four rows with 120 or 240 spikes. Can weigh 840 or 900 grams. Price – 70 dollars

Universal studded tire Innova 26 IA. Has a size of 26×2.10, equipped with 268 studs in four rows

The Innova 26 IA bicycle tire is universal because its tread has a negative structure, but its angled lugs form a straight tread.

Tire width

It is more profitable to install a narrower tire for driving in deep snow. It will quickly cut through the layer of snow to a dense base. When driving through snow, a wide tire will hang up in the snow, not having time to rest against the base, the wheel will begin to slide on the sides.

Narrow tires allow you to move through higher layers of snow. In reality, on snow cover above 10-15 cm it is impossible to ride a bicycle with any tires. A person gets tired very quickly when long work with increased load. And turning in deep snow will be another impossible task.

The widest possible tire is needed for driving on snow crust, trampled paths and winter roads, as well as for overcoming deep mud.

Homemade spike

You can stud any tire, but one made of soft rubber is much preferable - it will hold homemade hooks more tightly. Anyone can make studded tires at home, but it will be much heavier and more unreliable than a factory product.

1. It is necessary to buy self-tapping screws for metal: hardened ones with a flat, low head.
2. Self-tapping screws must be screwed into the lugs. It is convenient to screw in the self-tapping screw immediately after the hole is made.
3. It is better to drill holes with a small drill with a diameter of 2 mm, at high speeds of the drill. In a cut hole, the rubber does not experience overstress when stretched by a self-tapping screw, as in a hole pierced with an awl.
4. The ends of all self-tapping screws sticking out must be cut to a height of 4 mm above the rubber surface.
5. It is important to make a gasket to protect the camera from rubbing. It can be cut out from an old chamber, spread along the inner radius. Or you can cover the heads of the screws with protective Kevlar or insulating Mylar adhesive tape.

Do not forget that any studded tire, even a homemade one, needs to be broken in so that the studs take their working position in the rubber. You just need to drive a distance of 40-50 km on a hard road surface, with reduced pressure in the chamber. After this, you can storm winter roads and mud swamps.

You can find many people who like to not only eat ice cream in winter, but also ride a bike, regardless of weather conditions. And some people try to reduce travel time in this way - after all, it’s easier to quickly get there on your two-wheeled vehicle than to splash around in the slush for a long time, getting your feet wet. If you are a fan of autumn and winter, then you have probably wondered how to make studded tires for a bicycle with your own hands. It's no secret that factory studded tires cost incredible amounts of money, and this applies even to Chinese-made tires. What can we say about branded models?

On the roads there are holes, ledges, and stones, which are much more difficult to notice in puddles and slush, under ice and snow. This means that in the autumn-winter period it is much easier to damage the tire. And if it is an expensive one that will have to be replaced again, the burden on your budget may become excessive. There is a way out - make bicycle spikes with your own hands. It's much easier than it sounds and is unlikely to take more than a couple of hours. At the same time, the cost necessary details- minimal. So, let's stud your bike.

Items you will need

• Bicycle tire.

The tire itself, which we will stud. You can buy an inexpensive one, or you can take even a worn one that you were planning to throw away. It is quite suitable for practicing and understanding how to make cleats for a bicycle, and it is likely that it will last a long time, and if necessary, you can easily make another one. But if you are choosing a new tire, it is better to give preference to the one with a deeper tread. It is advisable that in those places where you will add spikes there is a thicker layer of rubber.

• Self-tapping screws with a wide head.

Self-tapping screws 4.2×13 mm are best suited. The fact is that part of the screw will go into the rubber, and another part will be erased while driving. Therefore, shorter screws may not last long, but if there is no other option, then you can take shorter ones. A wide head is needed for good fixation of the screw on the inside of the tire. In terms of quantity, you need as many screws as the number of studs you want to add to your bike.

• Super glue.

Any one you have on hand will do. Universal superglue will be sufficient. But if you choose glue specifically to make a studded tire for a bicycle, then you can use superglue for rubber.

• An awl or drill with a thin drill bit.

Of course, it will be much easier for you with a drill, but if you don’t have a drill, an ordinary awl will do.

• Phillips screwdriver suitable for self-tapping screws.
• Old bicycle tube.

Place all items next to you, take care good lighting, since you have to find small holes in the tire, and get to work!

Instructions for creating studded tires

Next, we present detailed instructions how to make a studded one. Of course, first of all, the tire must be disassembled. After that, examine it and select the places where the spikes will be located. As mentioned above, it is better to choose places where the rubber is thicker, because the screws will hold it more firmly and there will be no tears. You can also make spikes on the side of the tire so that they point toward the ground at an angle. With them it will be more convenient for you to ride your bike, since the side studs will make it easier to take turns on icy roads.

It is best to make four rows of studs: two rows at the bottom of the tire and two rows on the sides.

Now let's get down to the process. Take a drill or awl and do through hole in the tread where the first spike will be located. There is a little trick here that will greatly simplify the work.

Important! Pierce from the outside, not the inside. This way you will see exactly where the spike will come out and will not hit a thin section of rubber.

Then squeeze a drop of superglue onto the hole from the inside of the tire. Take a self-tapping screw and use a screwdriver to screw it into the hole until it stops. There is no need to overtighten so as not to create additional stress on the rubber. At the same time, the head of the screw must fit tightly enough to the tire for the superglue to fix it in place.

Important! Insert each screw immediately after the puncture. If you do all the punctures first and then start inserting screws, you will have a very difficult time finding the holes, especially if your tire is black on the inside.

Now you have a rather monotonous job of adding all the spikes. But it won't take too long. And when your tire turns out to be studded around the entire circumference, acquiring a rather futuristic look, you can rejoice at the results of your work: your own studded tires for a bicycle are ready!

There is only one final, but important detail left: you need to make a gasket so that the heads of the screws do not rub the inner tube of your bicycle. The easiest way to make such a gasket is from an old camera. But you can get creative and use scraps of leather or other material. If you don't have anything like this on hand, just cut the old inner tube lengthwise and wrap it around your bike's inner tube. You can lubricate it from the inside with superglue for better fixation. Put your new studded tires on top and go ahead and try them out!

Be prepared for the fact that at first a variety of debris, dry leaves and other objects that have fallen under will cling to the spikes. But over time, the screws will become a little dull and this problem will disappear. Good luck on the roads!