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With a large abundance of commercially available lighting devices, in some cases it can be very problematic to find the right one for a particular building. At the same time, attractive desktop or Wall lights it is possible to make it even from elements that were not originally created for this purpose at all. For example, from metal-plastic pipes.
Once, when installing a water supply system, I had the opportunity to work with metal-plastic pipes. Their flexibility and the ability to change geometry while maintaining strength parameters surprised me and gave me the idea to make lamps out of them. Prices for these pipes are low (30-40 rubles per meter), and most people have entire coils of them lying idle in their stash, left over after the last repair.
Rice. 1. One of possible options fastening nick from metal-plastic pipe to the shelf.
Absolutely every “man in the house” can make a lamp from a metal-plastic pipe - there will be no need for special qualifications or separate tools. Photo 1 shows a lamp whose base I turned on a lathe from an oak log. However, it is possible to use other wood for the base, giving the workpiece absolutely any shape you like. If there is no massive workpiece of the required cross-section, it can be glued together from different bars or pieces of boards.
First, a hole must be drilled in the future foundation, definitely exactly equal to the outer diameter of the pipe. Next, turning the workpiece over, the hole must be countersunk for flaring the pipe. Having prepared the base, it is worth starting to create a housing for the electric cartridge. The easiest way to make it is on a lathe from a piece of wood of the required size. Having turned the outside of the cartridge body, you need to drill two holes in it: on one side for the pipe, and on the other side for the electric cartridge.
Before assembling the lamp, I made small longitudinal cuts at the end of the pipe - 4-5 pieces. 2-3 mm long, trying to distribute them evenly around the circumference of the end edge. With this end I inserted the pipe into the hole in the base and flared it. I put the electric cartridge housing on the other end of the pipe. First, of course, you need to insert an electrical wire of the required length inside the pipe and other parts of the lamp. After that, all that remained was to attach the assembled lamp with screws to the shelf, screw in the lamp and plug it into the outlet.
Rice. 2. Wall Light.
However, we can offer many others simple ways mounting of such lamps. For example, it took me less than an hour to make wall option lamp (photo 2). To make something like this wall element fasteners I used wooden block 25-30 cm long and 40x60 mm cross-section. I drilled two in the block longitudinal holes: one is blind - according to the diameter of the pipe used, and the other is through for the electrical wire. You can do without drilling by selecting on the back side of the block longitudinal grooves appropriate sizes. Having at my disposal a small lathe, this part is not difficult to make chiseled. The remaining details of this lamp are exactly the same as in the previous version. The assembled lamp is attached to the wall with two pairs of screws - one pair secures the upper end of the bar, and the other the lower.
Often, when soldering small circuits or individual elements, there are not enough hands to simultaneously hold a wire or a circuit element, solder, a soldering iron, sometimes a flashlight or a magnifying glass, and the circuit also tends to run away somewhere when soldering. In such situations, the “Third Hand” comes to the rescue. Many people make such devices on their own to suit their needs.
I decided to make a similar device, not going much beyond the scope of its application. Or rather, making it universal and with an aesthetic appearance.
Video recording step-by-step assembly and a device test for familiarization.
Materials and tools
1. 2 crocodiles with insulation;
2. Parts from an old compass;
3. The bottom is from an aluminum can;
4. Base for stability made of plastic, wood or metal;
5. 3 flexible legs “Goosenecks”, 20cm each;
6. Heat shrinks 3mm and 5mm;
7. Electrical tape;
8. Hot melt adhesive;
9. Superglue.
From the tools:
1. Pliers;
2. Thermal gun;
3. Lighter;
4. Scissors.
Making a third hand
We will need 3 flexible gooseneck legs, 20cm each. I took them from a USB flashlight and USB fan purchased at a fixed price for 60 rubles. The USB flashlight has a flexible leg of 39 cm, it can be cut in half by cutting it with pliers or wire cutters to get 2 x 19 cm.
The USB fan has a 23 cm leg, so we’ll leave it that way.
Now you need to choose a suitable base for the stability of the structure. I have a plastic case from a quartz table clock lying around, I will use it.
It's better to take something heavier, depending on your needs. I won’t attach large boards from tablets and heavy objects there, so a plastic one will do.
We make 3 holes in the base for flexible legs.
Since hot melt adhesive does not adhere well to metal, we will use electrical tape. We wrap the ends of the flexible legs, which will be fixed to the base, with electrical tape. This will then allow the flexible legs to be firmly fixed at the base.
We take 2 crocodile clips and put 3 mm heat shrink on the teeth, as shown in the photo. This is so that the metal teeth do not damage the elements on the boards, the winding of the wires and do not leave marks on objects that will be fixed by crocodiles.
Use super glue to glue the crocodile to the end of the flexible leg. We don’t skimp on the glue) After the glue has dried, we put on 5 mm heat shrink (it will give a good fixation to the crocodile with a flexible leg) as shown in the photo. And we repeat the same with the second leg and the crocodile.
From an old compass we take out such a thing with a fixing bolt and nut.
Glue the fixing bolt super glue inside the flexible leg (it just fits there). Don't skimp on the glue) This will be a universal leg that can be customized and used to suit your needs. In my case, there will be an additional clamp for the wiring or light bulb and a clamp (where the lead is inserted) for the solder wire.
We insert the resulting flexible legs onto the base into the prepared holes and glue them with super glue. After the super glue has dried, fix it generously with hot glue.
You can make 4 legs using hot glue, for better stability and to prevent slipping on the table surface.
I was thinking about how to fill the empty space on the base and decided to make a place for small things necessary for soldering or for push pins, paper clips, or something else.
The bottom of an aluminum can worked very well. It is necessary to trim the edges, round the corners and fix them with hot glue to the base.
Can be used for a load (using the example of a hefty nut)), if I still need to hook large boards or heavy objects)
That's it. Everything is ready.
In the “Third Hand” case, it didn’t show itself badly. It copes with the task. The pattern holds well and does not slip. In the photo the light bulb is weak (there was no other one), you can hook it up more powerfully. The adjustment is convenient, hot melt glue holds the base of the legs well.
Many people cling to lenses and fans. He refused this. Sometimes it takes up a lot of space on the table when not in use.
This design And appearance allows you to leave the device on the desktop and use it for other purposes. Using a universal flexible leg, you can change the design and add the necessary elements (the same fan, a magnifying glass, a flashlight, another crocodile, a diagram drawing) depending on the purpose of use.
By the way, the remaining fan can also be used. In a couple of minutes, turning it into a tabletop battery-powered one.
As planned, it can be used not only for soldering.
For example, attach notes with important matters for the day or a card so as not to forget.
Even holds the phone confidently. I didn’t plan for this purpose) Nice addition)
I have no doubt that in the process of using it I will find more than one application for this device.
