Tips on how to prevent raspberry overgrowth. Methods for spring planting raspberry seedlings on the site

Raspberries. What gardener can afford to pass by this amazing crop. Its berries delight with taste and carry a lot of useful substances, and in winter, processed into jam, they help fight colds. However, if raspberries grow well in one area, then in another they often look “not so good.” What does this depend on? And this depends on many factors: on the location chosen for the crop, on the composition of the soil, on timely watering, but most importantly, on the planting method. It is how raspberries are planted that has the greatest impact on its development and productivity. And here, we can only recommend the trench method.

What it is?

The trench method of planting raspberries is planting seedlings of the crop in carefully prepared soil, but not in holes, as is usually customary, but in trenches. This method is troublesome, you need to prepare for it in advance, but the effort and time spent are worth the end result.

Sequence of work

In order to do everything correctly, it is necessary to first clear the area chosen for the raspberry tree, mark the plantings and dig trenches, the depth of which is from 40 to 45 cm, and the width can vary from 50 to 60 cm, while the row spacing should be left in the range from 120 to 150 – 160 cm, depending on biological features development of the variety selected for planting.

A nutrient cushion 10 cm thick is laid out at the bottom of the trench. It can be well-rotted manure mixed with a fertile layer of soil, plant residues, branches, fallen leaves with the addition of a certain amount of green matter - there’s a lot of riches here. But the main thing is that it is in this nutritional layer that the whole secret lies. Decaying organic matter will work for your garden bed for about 5 years, feeding and warming your plants. And raspberries are supposed to grow in one place for exactly this period of time, then they try to “escape” from the territory allotted to them due to the large number of root secretions that oppress them.

After the nutrient layer has been laid, about 10 cm of soil must be laid on top - this will allow rotting processes to begin if the trench is prepared in advance, and will protect the cut roots of the seedlings from contact with the decomposing layer.

Now you can start choosing planting material.

Planting material

When buying or selecting raspberry seedlings, you should not rush. Good rooting, development and, possibly, harvest, already this year, will be given only by those that have a well-developed root system, a stem thickness of about 1 cm (no more) and at least 3 buds at the base. In this case, the height of the selected planting material does not matter at all, since after planting the seedling is still cut to 15–20 cm.

Landing principle

Having selected healthy plants, they begin planting them. It is better if two people participate in this event - one holds the raspberry by the stem, the other covers it with earth.

The seedlings are placed at a distance of 40 cm from each other, the roots are carefully straightened, watered abundantly and covered with soil, while carefully compacting upper layer soil. After planting, you can try to pull out the planted plant; if it holds tightly, it means the planting was done correctly, if it comes out easily, you need to replant it.

An important point is the depth of embedding of the stem; it must be left at the same level, without deepening it at all, otherwise the seedling has a chance to die. But it’s also not worth shallowing and deepening - the root system, poorly covered with soil, will suffer from a lack of moisture.

If time has passed, but your raspberry has not produced root shoots, disturb its dormancy - just dig up the plant on one side, and a small tear in the roots will cause it to begin to reproduce.

If you don’t like feeding your garden with chemicals, collect ash throughout the year. This is an excellent, complete, and most importantly balanced fertilizer not only for raspberries, but also for strawberries.

If you notice that the tops of individual raspberry branches have begun to droop, cut them off immediately. This is a sign that there is a raspberry fly in the raspberry tree. You can fight it with spraying, or you can do it mechanically, destroying fallen leaves, mulching the soil under raspberry bushes, cutting out shoots affected by the pest.

Raspberries are among the most beneficial plants for human health. It is consumed fresh, ground with sugar, in the form of jam, in compotes, or dried. To regularly receive a rich harvest of berries from your plot, you need correct landing raspberries And the very next year after planting, the plant will thank you with beautiful and tasty berries.

Choice optimal time for planting raspberries depends on the region of your residence:

Southern regions

Autumn planting is preferred. Warm autumn allows seedlings to take root well and prepare for winter. In early spring The raspberries will begin to grow successfully and will produce their first harvest in the summer. The best month for planting is October.

But in the spring it is recommended to plant raspberries only in extreme cases, if you haven’t had time to do this since the fall. As a rule, spring in the south quickly turns into summer. Bushes planted at this time immediately throw out fruit buds without forming a root system. They require a lot of moisture, which is supplied by the roots. In such conditions, raspberries grow poorly and often dry out.

Middle lane

Bushes can be planted in autumn or spring. Much depends on the winter hardiness of the variety. Varieties that are not very frost-resistant are best planted in spring. If winter hardiness is normal, then autumn should be preferred.

Northern regions

In areas with cold climates, it is better to wait for spring warmth, since harsh winter may well destroy the seedlings. In addition, autumn planting is problematic due to the early onset of cold weather. Especially if there is little snow.

How to choose seedlings for planting?

Seedlings can be grown independently or purchased at the market (store). Usually one-year or two-year-old bushes with a root system are sold.

Attention should be paid to the following points:

The stem should not be too thick. The thicker it is, the more strength the root system will need to nourish the seedling. It is better to choose bushes with medium-thick or thin shoots.
If the trunk is too long, then developed roots are required, otherwise they will not be able to feed the shoot. It is recommended to choose bushes whose shoots do not exceed 50 cm in length.
The root system must be well developed. A plant with a single root is guaranteed not to take root. Roots that are too old or overdried become brown. It is also better to refrain from buying them.
There should be replacement buds on the root collar, from which new shoots will develop. If they are not there, do not buy a seedling.
You should not choose seedlings that have suspicious swellings (galls), cracks, or rotten areas.
If there are leaves on the shoots, this indicates that the plant was dug up during a period of active sap flow. During this period, raspberries cannot be dug up. She definitely won't get used to it. Seedlings are transplanted only after the leaves have fallen.

How to choose a place?

It is important to choose the right place to plant raspberries. It should be well lit by the sun and protected from cold winds. In particular, a fence will protect raspberries well from the wind. It is recommended to place the rows from south to north so that the plants are better illuminated by the sun during the day.

You should refrain from planting raspberries under trees. The bushes will stretch upward, and buds will form at the tips of the shoots. Such shoots may not ripen by winter, which will lead to crop loss. Raspberries do not like neighbors such as potatoes, tomatoes, and strawberries.

Raspberries like soil that is fertile, sandy or light loamy, with good drainage.

General rules for planting raspberries

The area chosen for planting raspberries should be prepared. In any case, it should be prepared in the fall. The soil is dug up using a shovel and cleared of weeds. For digging, you can add organic fertilizers (1-2 buckets), superphosphate (70 g) and potassium sulfate (50 g) per 1 square area.

Sand can be added to heavy or peaty soil. You can apply fertilizers not for digging, but directly into trenches or holes. In this case, 3 kg of humus or compost, 30 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium salt are consumed per hole.

Raspberries are planted in two ways: bush and row. It is necessary to strictly maintain the distance between bushes and rows, avoiding dense plantings.

Ordinary landing

The locations of the raspberry rows are marked and furrows or holes are dug.

Bushes are planted in prepared holes or furrows 40 cm deep. The width of the trenches is 50-60 cm. A distance of 0.5-1 m is maintained between adjacent bushes. All empty seats in a couple of years they will be filled with raspberry shoots. The distance between rows is 1.5-2 m. If several are planted different varieties raspberries, then the distance between these plantings is maintained at about 4 m.

Bush method

Raspberries are planted in dug holes. The distance between neighboring bushes should be about 1-1.5 m. The depth of the holes is 25-40 cm, and the diameter should allow the root system to be freely placed in the hole.

The planting depth should be such that the root collar of the bush is approximately at soil level. If you deepen the seedling too much, it will be difficult for young shoots to break through the layer of soil. In this case, they will expend the energy they need to grow. If planted too shallow, the roots will dry out in the summer and may freeze in the winter.

Plants planted in the ground are watered abundantly. When the soil near the bushes shrinks, add soil under the bushes. It is advisable to mulch the soil under the bushes.

Planting raspberries in various ways

There are several ways to plant raspberries, depending on the type of planting material.

By shoots

This is the most quick way get a raspberry harvest. The shoot already has a root system, which contributes to its rapid establishment. With the trench planting method, the shoots are spaced from each other at a distance of 50-100 cm.

Each seedling is placed in a hole or trench and then covered with earth. The replacement buds located on the roots should be covered with a 2-3 cm layer of soil. The planted bush is watered with a bucket of water, and after absorbing the moisture, sprinkled with soil and mulched.

Planted seedlings must be pruned, bringing them into line with the root system. In spring, 30-40 cm is left on the shoot, and the rest is cut off. In autumn, it is enough to leave 15-20 cm.

Cuttings

You can also plant raspberries from cuttings. This method allows you to propagate valuable raspberry varieties without purchasing them from nurseries. Propagation of raspberries by cuttings is considered an economically profitable and uncomplicated process. In autumn, raspberry cuttings 10-15 cm long are cut.

You should not use shoots that are too thick, as they do not take root well. The ideal thickness of the cuttings is 3-5 cm. In the fall, they need to be laid in the basement, sprinkled with earth. Or you can store them in damp sand.

In the spring, furrows 5-8 cm deep are prepared for planting. Cuttings are planted in them, placing them with a slight slope. The distance between the cuttings is maintained at about 20 cm. The furrows are watered and sprinkled with earth. In autumn, shoots with a developed root system are formed from the cuttings. These shoots are already planted in a permanent place.

Seeds

This method involves a long process of growing bushes, since first you will need to grow sprouts, and from them - seedlings ready for planting. Nevertheless, this method allows you to preserve and propagate any variety you like.

To begin the process of propagation by seeds, you need to stock up on ripe berries.

The juice is squeezed out of them using gauze, and then rubbed over a sheet of paper to separate the seeds. After drying, the seeds are easily separated from the paper. They are mixed with sand and sown in boxes or pots. The soil in the boxes should be light, mixed with peat or coconut fiber. The seeding depth is about 1 cm. The soil should be kept moist by placing the boxes in the shade. For the winter, the boxes are taken into the house and kept warm.

When the seeds begin to grow and 3-4 leaves form on them, the seedlings are transplanted into larger containers. If planting was carried out in the fall, after harvesting, then next fall you will receive seedlings ready for planting.

Raspberry trellis

To prevent raspberry bushes from breaking or bending, special supports are installed on the raspberry bush - trellises. Along the axis of each row of raspberries, wooden or metal posts are dug into the ground. They are placed at a distance of 2-4 m from each other.

At a height of 1 m, wire is tied to the posts. It will serve as a garter for raspberry shoots. If necessary, additionally tie 1-2 more rows of wire between the posts.

Care

Proper planting of raspberry bushes does not guarantee a high yield.

Behind the bushes requires timely and regular care. It is as follows:

Regular watering. Raspberries love moisture, so in summer they need to be literally filled with water.
Timely pruning. Every autumn you need to prune the shoots, cutting out two-year-old shoots that have already produced a harvest. Weak, unnecessary and diseased shoots are also removed. The recommended number of shoots per 1 raspberry bush is no more than 7 pieces.
In spring, the remaining young shoots are shortened by a quarter. The recommended shoot height after pruning is 1-1.2 m.
The shoots are tied to a trellis.
To reduce the number of weeds in the raspberry bush, you can mulch the soil under the bushes.

I love tender and aromatic raspberries in the form of jam. But growing and getting a harvest is a complex science. Thick planting and growing the crop in a low-light place became my main mistakes when growing. We had to correct the shortcomings every year. Now I know thoroughly how to plant raspberries: I make sure to maintain the distance between bushes and rows. I share with you the knowledge and experience I have acquired over 8 years.

Illumination of the place

To grow shrubs, choose a sunlit place. There should be no shadow nearby fruit trees and buildings. If you plant on the side of the house, where there is no sun for half a day, the yield of the berry crop will noticeably decrease.

No winds

The area for raspberries should be protected from strong gusts of wind and drafts. Fencing will help avoid damage to the bushes. At our dacha we plant along the perimeter of the plot, choosing the south or south-west side.

Crop rotation

Before planting, I take into account what plants were growing on the ground before planting the raspberries.

A member of the Rosaceae family is sensitive to the soil in which plants were grown, depleting it. These include potatoes, strawberries, wild strawberries, and tomatoes.
Gooseberries and currants create a favorable environment in the ground for placing raspberries there. They will also be wonderful “neighbors.” On my site they grow not quite nearby, but at a distance of 5–7 meters. Their proximity helps prevent raspberries from becoming infected with fungus. Harmful microorganisms do not cause the dangerous disease verticillosis in the crop.

Groundwater occurrence

Our site is located on a former swamp. At a high position groundwater raised the ground level, making high ridges. Another option is to choose a place where there is no stagnant water.

Soil acidity

Our soils are acidic, and to grow crops a pH of 5.5–6.5 is required. Therefore, to neutralize it, I took the following measures:

Before planting, the soil was limed with dolomite flour.
I added humus and rotted manure.
The addition of phosphate rock helped neutralize the acidity. Mineral fertilizer reacts slowly with acid and releases easily digestible phosphorus, which is necessary for the berry bush to fully develop.
Added imported forest land to the selected location.
She planted green manure - mustard, which saturated the soil with useful compounds.

Preparing the site for planting

I prefer to plant raspberries, like all plants, in the spring. In the fall, I dig up the chosen place and add humus and rotted manure. In the spring, a week before planting, you need to do similar steps.

When preparing the site, I estimate how many bushes will be planted. An approximate scheme for planting raspberries helps to calculate the amount of fertilizer and prepare warm and settled water.

Distance between bushes

For full development, I plant raspberries on the site at a certain distance from each other. If planted close, the root system of the plants will intertwine and oppress each other. From my own example, I was convinced that nutrients flowed from the roots to other parts of the plant in smaller quantities, the berries were small, and the yield suffered.

Bushes in dense plantings receive less sunlight, and raspberries do not develop well in the shade.

The ideal distance between bushes is 70-100 centimeters. The width of the strip for berry crops is about 1.5 meters.

Prepare for landing berry bush This video will help you gain knowledge in the spring:

Planting raspberries

Ordinary method

Before planting in the spring in April, I dig up the ridge. When cultivating the soil, I add superphosphate, humus and rotted manure. Our garden is located on a former peat bog, so I added one more to the soil. square meter 1 bucket of river sand. If the soil is clayey, it is necessary to add humus and rotted manure.

To plant raspberries, I choose a cloudy day or evening hours so that the adaptation of the shrub in the new place is faster.

I draw two rows in the ridge. It is convenient to then pick berries from different sides.
For each bush, according to the scheme, I dig holes 50 centimeters deep. I keep a distance of 80 centimeters.
At the bottom of each hole I pour 100 grams of wood ash and 1 liter of slurry.
I cut off excess shoots and dried parts of the plant from seedlings.
I place each bush in a hole, straighten the roots and cover it with soil. I don’t bury the seedling too deep.
I water with warm and settled water at the rate of 10 liters of water for each bush.

I make sure that the root collar is 4-5 centimeters above ground level! Otherwise, root rot may occur.

Trench method

I plant raspberries in rows. Another trench method involves digging a furrow rather than preparing holes.

2-3 trenches with a depth and width of about 50 centimeters are dug in the ridge.
Ash is poured onto the bottom and watered with organic matter.
Carefully place the bushes, adhering to the recommended distance between plants of 70-90 centimeters.
Water in the same way as with the ordinary planting method.

After planting, I sprinkle the soil around the entire perimeter of the raspberry tree with sawdust. The goal is to retain moisture and prevent weed growth. If there is no sawdust, then you can use mown grass and spruce as a mulching agent.

I subsequently divide the overgrown raspberries and get 2-3 bushes. The berry crop is propagated by growing replacement shoots, cuttings, and suckers.

Berry crop care

In the summer I feed the plantings organic fertilizers every 2-3 weeks. I apply the solution bird droppings or horse manure, as well as infused green fertilizer from nettles. I water the raspberry tree as the earthen ball dries out.

But the experience of many gardeners confirms that planting in open ground spring is preferable: during this period the survival rate is higher. Raspberry is a perennial, for high yield in subsequent years, it is important to choose the right place on the site, add required amount fertilizers into the soil and carry out preliminary preparation seedling for planting.

Spring planting dates

It is best to propagate raspberries by seedlings in the spring as early as possible - as soon as the snow melts and the ground warms up. Typically this period occurs at the end of March or beginning of April. Planting during this period is favorable for a number of reasons:

the raspberries are at rest, sap flow has not begun, and planting will be painless for the seedling;
in spring, in cool weather, when there is no hot sun, the survival rate of plants is one hundred percent;
The soil in the spring is still moist after the snow has melted, this also contributes to better rooting of raspberry seedlings.

If there is a possibility of return frosts, raspberry plantings whose buds have not yet awakened will not suffer. If the leaves begin to bloom and the shoots begin to grow, then if the weather forecast is unfavorable, it is better to cover the plantation with agrofibre.

Raspberries can be propagated by seedlings in late April - early May. In this case, in the absence of rain and warm weather, much attention will have to be paid to watering. Until the seedlings take root, do not let the soil dry out.

Choosing a location on the site

Raspberries love sunny, warm places. Light shading of plantings in the first half of the day is allowed. It does not like drafts, so it is recommended to plant it along a fence or wall of a house, but not on the north side. The predecessors of raspberries can be cucumbers, zucchini or legumes, but it is not advisable to plant them after tomatoes or potatoes.

Soils are preferably sandy or loamy. You can plant raspberries on sandy soils, but you will have to add them to the soil every year. a large number of organic matter and water more often. Raspberries are moisture-loving, but do not tolerate stagnant water. It is unacceptable to plant in areas where groundwater flows close, water collects after snow melts or stagnates for a long time after rain. After the snow melts, it is easy to decide on a suitable place - you should choose the driest and warmest one.

Raspberry roots are creeping and grow quickly. To limit their growth and prevent raspberries from spreading throughout the entire area, it is advisable to fence the plantation. To do this, sheets of iron or slate are dug vertically into the soil. The bottom layer of the fence should go to a depth of 50 cm, and the top layer should rise 10 cm above the surface.

It is often enough to fence the plantings on the south side, because most often the raspberry shoots spread towards the sun. In the spring, when the soil is moist and soft, it is easy to dig in the fence.

Planting methods and site preparation

Site preparation depends on the method of planting - trench or bush.

The trench method involves planting seedlings in one or several rows. In this case, the distance between raspberries in one row is made no more than 30 cm, and the distance between rows is about 1 meter. This will provide convenient access to the bushes for picking berries and caring for them. The length of the trench for planting can be any. It is correct that the trench is located from north to south. With this placement, all bushes will be evenly illuminated by the sun throughout the day.

Bush planting means placing four to six seedlings in one hole. It is enough to leave a distance of about 15 cm between them; you can plant them in a circle. After a few years, the bush will grow and have a spreading crown of 12-15 shoots. There should be a distance of at least 1.5 meters between the bushes, and be sure to provide easy access from all sides.

In order to plant raspberries in the spring without hassle, it is advisable to prepare the site in the fall.

If the area is overgrown with grass, then remove all the turf with a sharp shovel.
The earth is dug up using a shovel, and the roots of perennial weeds are selected.
Humus or compost is added and incorporated into the soil. If there is not enough organic matter, it can be added to the hole in the spring during planting.

The site is left in this form for the winter, and all other work will be carried out in the spring.

Raspberries can be grown using the container method. Each seedling requires a container of 10 liters. Correctly, if the depth of the container is 40 cm, and the width and length are about 50 cm. Drainage 10 cm thick is laid at the bottom, the rest of the volume should be occupied by nutritious soil. This method is convenient because the bushes can be placed in any suitable place, and put it in a cold basement for the winter. In regions with a harsh climate, this method is possible, which do not always tolerate frosty winters.

Preparing seedlings for planting

The seedling must have a well-developed root system with healthy roots. You should immediately discard those that have few roots, are rotten or dry. When transplanting, the shoot is shortened, leaving 30 cm. The remaining part should have from one to three buds. Seedlings with medium-thick stems take root better. Too thin shoots may dry out, and thick shoots may not develop buds.

When transporting, the root system should be wrapped in damp cotton cloth and can be placed in a plastic bag for a short time. You cannot keep it in the bag for a long time - the roots may begin to rot. If the seedling was dug up a long time ago, then before planting its roots should be dipped in a bucket of water for 5-6 hours. After this, they are placed in a container with a solution of any root growth stimulator for the time indicated on the package. You can protect the roots from drying out and improve their survival rate if you dip them in a clay mash. The clay is diluted with a small amount of water to the consistency of kefir and a little mullein is added.

In the spring, when the snow has completely melted and the soil has warmed up and dried out a little, you can begin planting.

With the ordinary planting method, a trench is dug, and when grown as a bush, a hole is dug. The depth of the pit should not be more than 35 cm. Its bottom is lightly compacted and spilled with water. On clay soils, a drainage layer of pieces of brick, crushed stone, stones or expanded clay is poured.

Prepare a fertile mixture. Mix for one bush:

1 cup wood ash;
1/3 bucket of rotted manure or ½ bucket of compost;
2 tablespoons of superphosphate.

There is no need to apply additional nitrogen fertilizers, otherwise the bush will grow foliage and the shoot will stop growing.

When planting a seedling, it is important to correctly position the root collar - at the same level with the soil surface. If it is buried, new shoots will not be able to form, and if planted high, the seedling may dry out.

Raspberries are a moisture-loving plant, so after planting it is necessary not only to water the seedlings abundantly, but also to mulch them. This will reduce water evaporation, and there will be no need for frequent watering and weeding. Not only straw, sawdust, or compost can be used as mulch, but also black polyethylene film. It is laid on the plantation, and in those places where the seedlings protrude, cross-shaped cuts are made. Polyethylene mulch reduces weed growth. Black agrofibre is suitable for the same purposes.

For raspberry bushes, a garter to a support is required. When growing in a row, for these purposes you can use a trellis or ordinary wire, which is stretched between two posts. They must be durable and at least 1.5 meters high. Install support pillars at the ends of the rows. If the rows are long, then several additional pillars are dug into the row with a distance of 3 meters between them. The wire is attached in two rows - the first at a level of 60 cm from the ground, the second - 1 m 20 cm. The shoots are tied to the wire with twine or secured with clamps.

With the bush growing method, several posts are installed in a circle, and the wire is pulled in the same way.

Results

Raspberries planted in spring usually take root one hundred percent. By following all the recommendations when planting, next year you can get good harvest. We must not forget that raspberries are perennial shrub, and the choice of place for growing must be approached responsibly, so that later you do not have to replant it.

Every gardener, having decided to grow raspberries, asks the question - how to plant the plant correctly? There are two main options - in autumn or spring, however, no matter which method is chosen, you need to carefully study many nuances so that the planting is successful and the young plant long time pleased you with stable harvests.

Benefits of autumn planting

Agricultural experts agree that autumn planting is the optimal solution when growing raspberries. What are the advantages of planting in the fall:

Landing dates

The timing of planting directly depends on the climatic conditions of the area and the characteristics of a particular variety, so it is best to focus on the plants themselves. Planting material must mature, as evidenced by the appearance of replacement buds on the root collar. It is the replacement buds that can be considered a universal guideline for determining the timing of autumn planting. In early varieties, replacement buds form in September, in late varieties - closer to mid-October.

Planting must be completed about a month before possible frosts, during which time the seedling should have time to take root well and take root.

Selecting a location:

Taking into account the fact that raspberries can be successfully cultivated in one place for up to 10 years in a row, the correct choice of sites determines the berry harvest for many years to come. Which place can be considered optimal?

raspberries love sunny meadows, protected from gusts of wind. A fence or wall of a house can serve as an excellent barrier from drafts, the main thing is to maintain a distance between them and the plant of at least 1 m;
Raspberry is a fairly moisture-loving plant, but does not like stagnant water, so both arid slopes and swampy lowlands are equally unsuitable for planting it. The groundwater level should not be higher than 1.5 m from the ground surface;
The soil for raspberries requires fertile, loose, well-drained soil;
The worst predecessors of raspberries are nightshades. You definitely shouldn’t plant raspberries after potatoes or tomatoes, but zucchini, beans, peas, and currants will serve as an excellent basis for subsequent planting of raspberries.

Selection of seedlings

Adult raspberry bushes form adventitious buds on their root system, from which young shoots develop. Part of the shoots is used as replacement shoots, and will serve as the new basis of the bush after the autumn removal of two-year-old shoots, and part can be used for propagation as planting material.

Criteria for selecting seedlings for autumn planting

a powerful, healthy stem without signs of disease or pest damage;
the height of the seedling is at least 40 cm, after planting it should be pruned to a height of 15-20 cm;
trunk diameter at the root is at least 1 cm;
Root length is at least 15 cm.

In addition to the described method, raspberry propagation can be carried out by dividing the bush or using root cuttings (the adventitious root is cut into several parts, dug in, and then several shoots with a single root system develop from each part)

Before planting, it is advisable to treat purchased seedlings with any root formation stimulator, for example, Kornevin.

Planting scheme

Planting raspberries in the fall is carried out in two main ways: in holes or in trenches.

for the pitting method, it is necessary to prepare holes in advance with a diameter of 40 cm and approximately the same depth, leaving a distance between holes of 1 m, and between rows of 1.5 - 2.0 m. In the future, in each hole a raspberry bush will develop, consisting of 8 -10 shoots, it is possible to plant not one, but two seedlings at once in each hole.
with the trench method, a long trench with a width of at least 50 cm is dug. The distance between neighboring seedlings is about 0.5 m, and between trenches 1.5 - 2.0 m. Planting in a trench allows you to reduce the number of waterings - water is retained between the sides of the trench and nourishes the roots for a long time. Also, with the trench method, it is quite simple to organize the garter of plants, just drive pipes through 2-3 meters and stretch the wire between them. What can be classified as a disadvantage is feeding the plants. The entire area of the trench has to be fertilized, unlike the pit method, where fertilizer is applied specifically to each bush.

The optimal placement of the rows is from north to south; this placement provides maximum illumination and heating from the sun's rays.

Feeding after planting

Raspberries love fertile, loose soil, so during planting, ½ bucket of humus, ¼ cup of superphosphate and ash are added to each hole. Pay special attention to phosphorus fertilizers, they stimulate root growth. An excellent fertilizer for raspberries is wood ash. It will not only strengthen the plant before winter, but will also have a positive effect on taste qualities next year's berries.

Nitrogen fertilizers, such as urea and saltpeter, are not used; they inhibit the development of the root system and will only interfere with the survival of the plant.

Many gardeners advise dipping raspberry roots into a solution of mullein and clay immediately before planting - this procedure will enrich the root environment with nutrients, have a positive effect on root formation, and protect the root system from pests.

Autumn planting: step-by-step instructions

Regardless of the planting scheme, in order to carry out this process correctly, a number of conditions must be met:

Mark the area, mark the locations of the holes (trenches), decide on their number;
Level the area for planting, remove weeds, debris and tops from previous crops;
Dig holes (trenches);
Place old branches, tops, grass, pieces of boards, and large wood chips on the bottom of the holes (trenches);
Pour rotted manure into the holes (trenches) in a layer of 5-7 cm. Manure in combination with rotting branches and tops will supply the plant with nutrients for a long time and warm the soil, stimulating the early appearance of berries;
Install pieces of slate and roofing felt along the side walls of the hole (trench). This procedure will not allow raspberries to grow beyond the designated area;
Thoroughly fill the prepared holes (trenches) with water;
Install the seedlings so that the root collar is just below the surface of the ground. Strong deepening will lead to a delay in the development of the plant, and placing the root collar above the surface of the earth will lead to its drying out and subsequent freezing of the plant;
Spread the roots over the surface of the fertile layer of the hole (trench). The root system must be placed evenly in all directions; lifting the roots upward is not allowed, otherwise the survival rate will sharply decrease;
Sprinkle the roots with soil, which must be compacted. Voids can lead to freezing of the root system;
Water the seedlings thoroughly. Water consumption for each plant is at least 5-10 liters;
Mulch the soil around the seedlings with humus, sawdust, straw, and peat. Mulch will prevent the soil from quickly drying out and overheating and will deter weeds;
Trim the seedlings, leaving shoots 15-20 cm high.

Differences in autumn planting of raspberries in the Krasnodar region, Moscow region, Siberia

The time of autumn planting directly depends on the climatic characteristics of a particular region, so it is impossible to indicate uniform dates and it is necessary to approach their determination individually.

in the Krasnodar Territory, autumn planting is carried out in early and mid-October. The seedlings will have time to take root before winter and will begin to bear fruit the following year;
For Siberia, spring planting is preferable, or autumn planting, but carried out at the very beginning of September. In general, autumn in Siberia can be quite cold and rainy, so plants do not have time to take root well and losses from freezing are large;
in the Moscow region and throughout Central Russia in general, autumn planting is carried out from mid-September to early October; there will be at least a month left before the first frost, just enough for the plant to take root and prepare for winter.

Frost-resistant and early varieties It is better to plant in spring. Autumn planting very risky for them, losses from freezing can be more than 50%

The high viability of raspberries allows you to get a good survival rate even without following certain agrotechnical practices, however, in order for the harvest to please you, it is simply necessary to prepare for planting raspberries. Right choice site, compliance with planting technology, correct pruning and fertilizing will allow you to lay a powerful foundation for your future healthy, abundantly fruiting raspberry tree.