Planting, care and pruning of fruit trees. Preservation of garden plants purchased in winter and early spring

If readers remember, the winter of 1978-1979, like the current one, was very cold. However, those gardeners who were in no hurry to destroy the frozen fruit trees, have retained more than half of the apple, pear, plum, cherry, cherry plum, sweet cherry, first of all, of course, zoned varieties.

And now the situation seems to have repeated itself: the abnormally warm, dry, protracted autumn of 2005 led to the fact that gardens in most of the Leningrad Region entered the stage of winter dormancy with a great delay. It is known that the last organ of a fruit tree that is actively functioning until the very frost is the root system. Already in November, when the air temperature drops to -5°C ... -10°C, the roots continue to extract nutrients from the still unfrozen soil, which are stored in all parts of the tree and help to survive significant frosts. This is what happens in our area, if autumn is rainy and cool, winter begins with snow in November with slight cold, and the harvest was not too plentiful.

This season, everything was different: 1. It was warm almost until mid-November. 2. Traditional autumn rains fell in places and rather meagerly. Therefore, in those gardens where the owners did not take care of pre-winter watering, fruit trees could not get enough nutrition in the fall. 3. Relatively warm December and early January did not allow the formation of stable high snow cover, which in harsh winters 1978-1979, 1985-1986, 2002-2003 kept at least the lower part of the trunk and the root system from freezing. 4. Clear, frosty, windy February and March promise sunburn on the south side of the trunk and frost holes on the north and east.

To this should be added good harvests, especially of apples, in the southern and western regions of the region. It is clear that the tree big harvest It also gives away a significant part of the substances it needs, and can replenish them only with timely and attentive care.

All the factors listed above have been summed up this winter and, most likely, will significantly affect the condition of our fruit trees.

So, what should the gardener do to reduce the negative effects of these factors.

First: do not rush to remove frozen trees. The extent of damage is best determined in May, possibly June, after sap flow has begun. At the same time, the less the variety is frost-resistant, its location on the site is less favorable, and the tree is taller, the more damaged the wood.

Second: estimate general state trees - according to the degree of darkening of the wood on the cut, the location and number of awakened buds, the nature of the foliage. If the core of the main branches (skeletal, semi-skeletal) is dark brown, the bark exfoliates, the awakening of the buds, even on seemingly intact branches, is significantly lower than the usual characteristic for a tree of this variety, then it has suffered greatly and, most likely, not only this winter.

Freezing (dying off) of fruit twigs of one-two-year-old shoots, partial damage to the bark as a result of frost cracks and sunburn is unpleasant, but does not yet lead to a quick death of the tree.

Third: perform rejuvenating pruning in adult affected trees, restorative pruning, preferably forming crown pruning, in young trees.

This work should be carried out only when the dead, partially alive and well restored zones are fully visible.

It can be assumed that in many gardens where there was sufficient snow cover or snow retention was carried out (bundding, organization of shelters, mulching trunk circles etc.), young 3-10-year-old trees will be found with a crown that has died above the snow level. At the same time, shoots and stems covered during the frost period will remain viable and give a sufficient number of young shoots during the growing season.

They must be protected from mechanical damage(for example, by wind) - tie up, shorten to increase strength, remove weak, poorly located, overlapping branches. Subsequently, from these surviving shoots, it will be possible to form a low-stem or bush tree form. This applies to both pome and stone fruit crops.

The slightly brown color of the wood indicates a slight damage to the tissues. However, it must be remembered that in this case the mechanical strength of such branches has deteriorated, and pruning of these parts of the tree (skeletal, semi-skeletal branches, branches of the second order) should be carried out to a greater extent than in a tree of the same variety and age, but which has avoided damage.

Heavily damaged own-rooted cherry and plum trees are quite easily restored by root offspring (shoots). Apple trees, pears - only shoots going above the grafting site.

All affected trees need enhanced feeding, primarily nitrogen fertilizers, and watering during the dry period.

The final decision on the removal of a dead tree is best taken no earlier than the second half of July. Then the gardener can make sure that the dormant buds, even at the bottom of the stem, have not woken up and recovery is impossible. In this case, do not despair, but plant new zoned varieties from the nurseries of the North-West region.

Anatoly Kofman, gardener

Immediately after tree planting the trunk circle is loosened. This helps retain moisture in the soil and prevents weeds from growing. For support in inclement weather plants tied to supports. At the same time, they regularly check that the garter material does not crash into the bark, and also prevent friction against the support, since damage to the bark can lead to the death of the plant. To protect against tissue drying out in spring, in dry windy weather stems are wrapped with a damp cloth or moss. In case of a pronounced imbalance between the volume of the root system and the aerial part of the plant, post-plant pruning. Usually the shoots are shortened by a quarter.

Fresh leaves of young plants are a delicacy for leaf-eating caterpillars and green aphids. Pest collection is carried out manually. If this fails, biological or chemicals protection.

top dressing

In the 1st year of growth The root system of a plant develops within landing pit using the fertilizer applied during planting. Fertilizers are not applied during this period, however, if the top dressing was not fully applied and the seedlings do not grow intensively, 10 kg of rotted manure, 120 g of superphosphate, 40 g of potassium chloride, 60 g of ammonium nitrate are added to the trunk circle.

For the 2nd year(if the plants gave insufficient growth in the 1st year), the same amount of fertilizer should be applied to the near-stem circle, which should be expanded in diameter by 50 cm. Since young trees in spring feel the need for nitrogen fertilizers, you can increase the dose of ammonium nitrate to 80-90 g, and also add urea.

If soils are poor, fertilizers can be applied in parts, superficially, and then sealed with a rake, watered and mulched with peat or compost.

Watering

Fertilizer is recommended to be combined with watering, which must be carried out throughout planting year. Otherwise, the top of the aerial part of the seedling will gradually die off until normal moisture and nutrient medium are restored in the root layer.

Average for fruit crops on loamy and clay soils, 3 waterings are enough: immediately after planting, in the 2nd half of May and in July - at least 3-4 buckets under a tree. During a hot dry summer or belated spring planting you need at least 4-5 waterings: 2 spring and 2-3 summer. On light sandy soils, at least 5-6 waterings are required.

Suspend watering in August and early September, allowing young growths of plants to lignify well and prepare for future frosts. In late September - October, abundant watering (double rate) promotes root growth even under snow. Podzimnye watering strengthen the winter hardiness of the seedling.

Mulching

Mulching contributes to the accumulation and preservation of moisture in the soil - covering tree trunks with humus, compost, straw manure, peat, mulching paper, plastic wrap, chopped straw and weeds . It is not recommended to use sawdust for mulching, especially softwood.

Mulch is laid out a layer of 3-5 cm around the entire near-trunk circle, except for a small area around the trunk in a radius of about 10-15 cm. This work must be carried out immediately after the first loosening. Late mulching, especially with dry peat, when the ground has already dried up, does not give a positive result, and in dry years it can even reduce the yield. During the summer, as the soil is compacted, the soil under the mulch is loosened by moving the mulch material to the side. After loosening, it is again distributed along the trunk circle. In autumn, the mulch is embedded in the soil for fertilizer.

Autumn digging

Proper tillage not only improves the nutritional conditions of plants, but also contributes to the accumulation and further preservation of moisture in the soil, which increases the overall immunity of trees. Basic tillage with fertilizer application produced in late autumn, when fruit trees finish growing and leaf fall ends. The soil is dug up with shovels with the turnover of the layer, without crushing the soil clods. When digging the soil in the trunk circles, care must be taken: the shovel should not be too deep to avoid damaging the roots. In this case, the shovel should be facing the stem with an edge. Near the young trunk, it is desirable to use rippers or cultivators to a depth of no more than 6-7 cm, further from the trunk, you can work deeper, by 14-15 cm.

At digging with seam turnover they turn out onto the day surface and pests wintering in the upper soil layers die. In addition, the lumpy surface of the soil retains moisture better. Please note that before digging the soil, you need to remove weeds and burn fallen leaves.

Spring tillage

In the spring, loosening is carried out without turning the layer and leveling the soil surface. First loosening trunk circles in order to maintain a supply of moisture, they carry out how the snow melts and the soil dries out a little. In the future, during the spring, summer, autumn, the tree trunks are loosened at least 3-4 times, while carefully removing weeds.

The need for loosening is determined by the degree of compaction, clogging of the soil, crusting after rains. The size of the near-stem circles depends on the age and development of the plants. They should be slightly larger than the width of the crown. In the first two years after planting at an apple tree, cherry, pear, sea buckthorn, it is enough to process a circle 1-1.5 m wide.

pruning

For the 2nd year of growth carry out cutting. This makes it possible to bring the rapidly developing aerial part of the plant into line with the root system and lay the foundations for crown formation. Usually, fruit trees on vigorous rootstocks are formed according to a sparse-tiered scheme, in which the tree has 5-7 skeletal branches of the 1st tier and 4-5 of the 2nd. To do this, in the 2nd year, the side branches are cut by a third with a shoot length of 70 cm and by half with a shoot 100 cm long. If the intended future skeletal branches are the same in development, then the lower shoots are cut weaker than the upper ones. To obtain the 2nd tier of the crown, the central conductor is also shortened, leaving it 45-50 cm long. Please note that proper care behind the soil should ensure the growth of shoots in one season by 60-70 cm for pome crops and 80-100 cm for stone fruits.

First wintering

To avoid damage to plants by snow, branches of future crowns at the end of autumn are pulled together soft material . This operation is carried out together on frost-free days in order to avoid breakdowns. In addition, in late February - early March, when there is no stable temperature, sunburn damage to plants is possible. Whitewashing used as a means of protection is not always effective for young trees. Best result gives tying the bole with special fabrics which simultaneously protects it from rodents. Please note that it is recommended to release the tree from the fabric strapping on cloudy, preferably rainy days, in the late afternoon.

hope dies last

In the spring, novice gardeners often make the mistake of removing plants that do not show signs of life for a long time. Sometimes they uproot roses, honeysuckle, astilba, budley, tree hydrangeas, holly mahonia, phloxes, chrysanthemums and even grapes.

Out of annoyance, they simply tear bushes from the ground, and then they lament when they see living buds below.

It is usually believed that the plants are frozen, although more often the cause of death is that they propped up. In any case, the task is one - to help them recover.

Most plants are very hardy. They have many dormant buds that are not developed and are not visible at first glance. Over time, with proper care, they awaken, and the plants quickly recover due to the powerful root system, which is much less damaged in the ground.

To help plants, you need to perform following rules. Remove all obviously dead, black and dry branches. The vine should not be cut too short. Sometimes the buds wake up very late, but then the grapes quickly gain strength.

Water regularly, but moderately, avoiding moisture stagnation. Feed with nitrogen fertilizers. The dose is small - an incomplete tablespoon in a bucket of water. Spray with growth stimulants: epin, zircon or Mival-agro. It is useful to use humic preparations. In hot weather, all spraying should be done only in the evening. Feed, without fail, after preliminary watering with water and only with aqueous solutions.

In addition to the aerial part, the root system also suffers in winter. We do not see damage to the roots, but they need to be remembered . Keep the soil clean weeding. It is convenient to do this with a Fokin flat cutter with simultaneous loosening. The presence of air in the soil is very important for weakened roots. In order for the roots to come to life and “earn”, you need water the plant with Kornevin, Heterauxin. These preparations cause the growth of small suction roots that revitalize the affected plants. Remember that you must strictly adhere to the dose indicated in the instructions. An overdose can cause the opposite effect.

If you are sad to see an empty space where your frozen plants have not yet come to their senses, then plant seedlings of annual flowers nearby . It is useful to plant plants with phytoncidal properties: calendula, marigold or nasturtium. Perhaps in the middle of summer you will notice signs of life in frozen plants. In this case, one-year-olds can be removed or transplanted.

The main thing is not to lose hope. Remember that plants are very tenacious creatures, so take your time to "bury" them. Give them a chance to fight for their lives and help them a little.

Sometimes on the stems of roses, the bark cracked and partially peeled off. Such wounds can be treated with growth stimulants or treated with sorrel juice, as is done on apple trees damaged by rodents. The wound is rubbed with green sorrel leaves or a cloth bandage moistened with juice from the rubbed leaves is applied.

After pruning, affected roses and other shrubs need protect from the drying rays of the sun. To do this, cover them with a box, flower pot or a bucket. Such a shelter can be stored for 3-4 weeks - it is more humid under it, which is useful for weakened plants. Check their condition: with the appearance of sprouts, remove the shelter so that they do not stretch out without light (open them only in the evening or in cloudy weather).

Plants that have young shoots growing need support with food. No need to get carried away with manure and nitrogen. It's better to give complex fertilizers with micronutrients. In early August, transfer plants to a phosphorus-potassium diet.

Irises that look bad after winter must be dug up and inspected. Cut all darkened and soft places on the rhizome to a healthy part and treat with Maxim. Sprinkle the wound with crushed coal and cover with moss, then sprinkle with earth. Moss-sphagnum has bactericidal properties and prevents the spread of infections on the affected rhizome.

M.P. Zaitsev, Moscow

Every garden owner wants to harvest a rich harvest every year. This is quite expected: spending a lot of time and effort on caring for bushes and trees, no one wants to be left without tasty and healthy fruits in the fall. However, in order to get good harvest With every plant in the garden, you have to take garden care very seriously. And it’s worth starting from the very beginning of spring. It is also advisable to do and process also ordinary, and not just apple trees in the garden.

The beginning of spring in the country

Of course, in March, even young and strong trees are more like dead wood: there are no buds or leaves on them. The trees have not yet awakened after the winter, and only after a month and a half (depending on the region, weather and plant variety) will the first swollen buds appear on the branches. But experts recommend starting to care for the garden in March.

Some gardeners thin out the crown already in March, removing dried and dead branches. However, not everyone can determine which branches have dried up and which simply have not departed from hibernation. Therefore, it is better not to rush, so as not to destroy strong young branches. But in March, it's time to process the trunk itself and the skeletal branches (the main and thickest ones, on which the entire crown rests) with a twenty percent solution of lime. This will protect the tree from mice and other small pests.

some types of small pests

Pay attention to whether melt water accumulates around your trees? If the roots are in a hollow, then small drainage channels should be built to divert water to the side. Otherwise, stagnant water may well lead to rotting of the roots or even the trunk of a tree.

Also inspect the trees for dried fruits and berries that have endured all winter. They should be collected and sent to the compost heap.

From autumn to spring, various bacteria often develop in these fruits, which can cause serious damage to the entire garden.

If the birds did not eat them in a hungry winter, you should get rid of them yourself.

The work takes very little time, and after that, for a while, you can forget about the need to care for the garden.

Getting rid of extra branches

After waiting until the buds swell, so that you can easily distinguish dry branches from healthy ones, you can proceed to further work. Dry branches should be removed immediately.

To remove thin ones, use pruners, but old ones are best removed with a hacksaw. Breaking branches by hand is highly discouraged. Indeed, in this case, not only there is a risk of serious injury, but also damage to young branches that can bring a crop, if not this year, then next.

At the same time, shoots that grow parallel to the trunk can be removed. They rarely bear fruit, but they cause a lot of problems. Collecting a few fruits from their tops is quite difficult. And in strong winds, high branches often break and damage the entire crown of the tree. They also shade the rest of the shoots going away from the trunk, which is why their fruitfulness is sharply reduced.

Feeding the garden before summer

If the garden was laid out several years ago, then the soil has probably already lost some of the minerals and needs to be replenished. And here you will come to the aid of various natural and chemical fertilizers. It is necessary to choose the right ones that are really important for your garden in the spring.

Young trees that are not yet fruiting or fruiting very sparingly do not need to be fertilized. Unless you can add a small amount of humus (at the same time, make sure that the humus has reached the “condition” and will not burn the root system and trunk).

garden of young trees

Mature trees (from 5 years old) should be fertilized primarily with nitrogen fertilizers. They stimulate the growth of the crown, as well as the formation a large number large leaves, and in fact they are necessary for speed dial nutrients and a rich harvest. It is best to apply fertilizer during the first autumn loosening, around April.

Read the instructions very carefully. It is not uncommon for gardeners, guided by the principle "the more the better", in the fall to receive fruits with dangerous high level nitrogen content. Such fruits are quite easy to poison. Important potash and phosphate fertilizers are best applied in autumn.

Of course, do not forget about organic fertilizers: they are the most complex complex of all substances necessary for successful growth and a rich crop of plants. Humus, as well as slurry, bird and cow droppings can act as organic fertilizers.

rotted cow dung

With droppings (especially chicken!) You should be very, very careful: a huge concentration of saltpeter can kill a tree. Therefore, before being introduced into the soil, the litter is diluted warm water, a part of cow droppings accounts for 5-6 parts of water, and bird droppings - at least 10-12 parts of water.

Fruit garden in spring

Garden care in the spring is not only about caring for fruit trees and other plants on the site. It is also necessary to pay attention to the lawn, soil, buildings and structures.

Spring inspection of the garden: what to look for

Even if there is still snow outside the window, already in the first weeks of March it is worth starting to take care of the garden and prepare for the new season. Many works need to be done before the start of active sap flow and the awakening of the kidneys.

Inspection of the orchard

Every gardener should know where pests and plant diseases winter. Many of them descend from the trees in autumn and easily endure the cold under fallen leaves. These include weevils, bark beetles and some types of caterpillars. Raspberry beetles and moths go to hibernate in the soil to a depth of 6-8 cm. Therefore, it is advisable to dig up the ground when it has already thawed enough, but not to wait for warming.

Last year's leaves remaining on the trees indicate the presence of spider mites in the garden. Codling moth and aphids hibernate on the surface of the bark and in its cracks; their eggs can be seen on the trunk and branches. Inspect the garden for ants, these insects can cause a lot of inconvenience and destroy the crop.

In last year's fallen leaves, pathogens of diseases such as scab, black rot, spotting and many others also tolerate cold well. On the bark of trees and lawn grass, fungus and lichens can often be seen.

Problems on the site after winter

With the advent of spring, problems can arise not only with plants, but also with the site itself. Most often they are associated with the rapid melting of snow and stagnant water.

spring flood: flooded area and soil washout;
poor soil drainage: water has nowhere to go;
waterlogging of the soil due to uplift ground water;
spring frosts.

These are just the main and most common problems that can be faced with the arrival of spring. Each of them requires surgical intervention. Garden care in March and April is the most crucial period, which determines what the next season will be like.

Typical spring problems in the garden and how to fix them

After inspecting the trees, you must immediately begin to care for them. Prepare the tools and tools for processing in advance.

Bark cracks and frost holes after winter, frozen branches

Carry out sanitary and restorative pruning: remove dead, frozen and affected branches during the winter, treat cracks in the bark. When the snow on the site begins to melt, you need to remove the ice crust in the stem circle.

Sunburns of the bark

It is necessary to whitewash tree trunks and thick branches to protect them from bright spring sun. Do not delay with the removal winter shelter from ornamental crops, as they can rot and die.

Hollow in a tree

If a hollow is found, the cavity should be cleaned, disinfected and sealed cement mortar to prevent breakage.

Large amount of snow

When the snow begins to melt quickly, there is a possibility of floods. In such cases, it is recommended to take measures to retain melt water: trample snow around the perimeter of the site, creating artificial barriers to streams (while there is still snow, do not forget to prepare melt water for watering seedlings).

swampy terrain

If your garden has water every spring, or the soil is washed out due to uneven terrain, you should organize the drainage of the site: clean and repair drainage ditches and drainage well, dig out new ones if necessary.

spring frosts

Equipment should be prepared to create artificial fog, or special smoke bombs should be used to protect a flowering garden from spring return frosts. You can also use the most cheap way- burn weeds and spruce forest, which was used to shelter perennials for the winter.

These are just the basic measures to protect the garden in the spring, which will help make it easier to care for it in the future.

Disease and pest control, prevention measures

Plants wake up quite quickly after winter, which is why it is necessary to have time to protect them from insects and diseases. Before bud break and the first leaves appear, many pests and pathogens are still sleeping. Some of them hibernate in the soil, others - right on the plants.

plant protection

It is worth remembering that the leaves remaining on the branches are a breeding ground for diseases, such branches must be cut and burned. The bark of trees is carefully cleaned of fungi and lichens, and treated lime mortar or special paste. It will also help to burn out the eggs of insects located on and under the bark.

Further care behind the garden in the spring is to spray the plants with insecticides. These drugs are able to fight diseases such as: black cancer, scab, moniliosis, and pests: codling moth, caterpillar, spider mite, soil insects. It is necessary to carry out such spraying before flowering, so as not to damage the buds.

Already blooming garden processed only to increase the protective functions of plants. There are preparations with which they treat the soil with insects sleeping in it. All further sprayings are preventive, since aggressive preparations can harm the color, leaves and fruits.

Ants in the garden

Ants in the garden can destroy all berry crops, especially raspberries and strawberries. You can fight them folk remedies, so as not to disturb the ecological balance, or more aggressive, but fast-acting chemical solutions.

Lawn protection from diseases

Lawn grass exposed to diseases as often as trees and shrubs. With the advent of spring, you may encounter lawn rotting and grass being replaced by various weeds and moss. Such problems are solvable, but in the future it is necessary to apply preventive measures so that the diseases do not return, and the green lawn always has a healthy and well-groomed appearance.

Having found mold and rotted spots on the lawn, you must carefully cut them out. It is advisable to burn the turf so that the disease does not spread to cultivated plants. After that, the earth is treated with a 3% solution of iodine and left for a day. Before proceeding, carefully inspect the sod section for mold or mildew. If it remains or has grown, it is necessary to cut a larger piece of lawn cover.

The resulting pit should be sprinkled with a mixture of sand and black soil, and then sow fresh grass. The soil may settle a little and it will need to be added again in a couple of days, but not tamped, which is why the seeds are left almost on the surface, deepening them by only 0.5 cm.

Fertilizing horticultural crops in spring

After winter, the plants in the garden are exhausted and need good nutrition. It is recommended to monitor the condition of the soil and select fertilizers individually for each crop and tree, based on its age, variety and condition.

soil top dressing

organic fertilizers such as: manure, compost, bird droppings or green manure infusion is introduced into the near-stem circle of trees and dug up along with the ground. Mineral additives (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and trace elements) are used in the same way.

foliar top dressing

Foliar top dressing of the garden is carried out by spraying the crowns of trees with nutrients. Apples, pears and stone fruits are treated with a solution of urea of different dosages.

Pruning fruit crops and shrubs

Garden maintenance is correct pruning trees in spring. Each culture has its own characteristics of development, so the approach should be individual. First of all, restoration pruning of the garden is carried out in the spring.

The apple tree is the main fruit crop in any country house, so every gardener should be able to care for both young and adult trees.
The fast growing plum also needs spring pruning, it is necessary to restore trees and thin out thick branches. The health of the trees and their fruiting depend on the correctness of the procedure.
Apricot needs special care and individual formation of branches, since access to a large amount of light is necessary for the ripening of fruits.

Outcome

Garden care in the spring includes not only pruning, fertilizing and controlling pathogens, but also measures to protect the soil from leaching and waterlogging, while retaining moisture for plant development. It is necessary to conduct a thorough inspection and cleaning of the site, process the plants and prune. All efforts will eventually be rewarded with a bountiful and healthy harvest.