How to feed strawberries in the fall for a good harvest. Fertilizers for seedlings: when and what to apply

The flora is rich and diverse. Some crops love shade and moisture, others grow only in sunny places and dry soils. What do irises like? How easy is it to grow them in your garden? How to care for irises in the country? More on all this below.

The nuances of caring for and growing irises in the open ground

This plant cannot be called capricious. But for healthy growth and beautiful flowering it still needs several conditions. In addition, it is worth considering that they are different for bearded, beardless and bulbous species.

Boarding time

In the spring, from March to May, as soon as the ground warms up, the already acquired winter crops are planted in open ground. planting material, regardless of its type. That is, both rhizomatous and bulbous varieties. If planted correctly, the iris will bloom in early summer.

Important! A crop grown from a bulb in the spring is highly likely to bloom only the next year.

June - July are the best months for breeding. Irises are rooted with shoots in a greenhouse, but can also be grown in open ground, creating a small greenhouse over the sprout. However, the most good way division is still rhizomatous. The plant must have time to take root in order to withstand the winter cold.

At the end of August it is time to plant bulbous iris species. They will delight you with their flowering in early spring.

In the fall, a month before the onset of cold weather, all transplants in open ground should be completed. At the same time, you can sow iris seeds in pots for propagation at home.

Place for planting in open ground

Contrary to misconception, iris for the most part does not like shady places and excess moisture. Grown with a lack of light, on wet soils, it loses its decorative effect and blooms for a short period. This does not apply to marsh varieties. But they also cannot tolerate stagnant water in the ground. When planting a plant in the garden, it is recommended to choose a place protected from strong winds. Otherwise, it will have to be further strengthened with supports.

Planting irises

Soil composition requirements

The culture retains abundant flowering and healthy growth in fertile, loamy soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. Large doses of nitrogen in the soil cause various diseases of irises. Acidic soils will not allow the crop to bloom.

You can deoxidize the soil by adding chalk, ash, and lime. In soil with a high percentage of peat, it is recommended to add organic matter before planting. In clay - sand or compost.

Important! Adding fresh manure as a top dressing causes rot on iris tubers.

Watering

Feeding requirements

• before flowering (during the period of bud setting);
• after flowering has completed (to prepare for winter).

Additional requirements

Shelter - some varieties of rhizomatous irises need it for the winter. Digging - bulbs after flowering (May, June) are recommended to be removed from the soil before autumn planting.

Iris bulbs

How to care for irises outdoors in July and August

During these summer months, almost all varieties of irises finish flowering. Time to propagate, replant and begin preparing for the winter dormancy period.

Reproduction

What should you do with irises in July? By mid-summer, the crop already has a well-developed root system and sprouts appear on it. It is during this period that it is easier to propagate them by dividing the bush:

Additional Information. Flowering is the optimal time for breeding. Therefore, in markets you can find planting material with flower stalks.

Transfer

What to do with irises in August? The last month of summer is favorable for transplantation.

The soil should be prepared in advance. About a week before the event, it is necessary to dig up the soil to the depth of a spade, add fertilizer so as not to burn the roots of the plant.

Important! The best time The third week after the end of the flowering period is considered to change the planting location.

Fertilizer application

When preparing the crop for winter, you need to take care of feeding. Phosphorus-potassium compounds are applied in July or August after the irises bloom, according to the instructions on the packages. Phosphorus will strengthen the roots of the plant, and potassium will allow the formation of healthy buds of future flower stalks.

Important! Fertilizers are applied at the root level on moist soil using the leaf-by-leaf method.

Planting bulbs

In order for the planting material to adapt to the soil before the cold weather, it is recommended to plant it in the third ten days of August or early September. The process takes very little time:

• in a small space they loosen the ground and make a depression;
• lightly press the bulbs into the soil and level it;
• mulch the planting with compost;
• cover from penetration excess moisture non-hygroscopic material.

Important! To prevent the bulbs from rotting, you should not water them when planting. Abundant growth during this period of summer is enough for rooting.

Give beautiful view A flower bed of irises can be formed compactly, with small figures.

How to feed irises

IN spring period to help the plant quickly form green shoots, it is recommended to fertilize the soil with complex mixtures. A developed root system is important for healthy growth. Phosphorus promotes this process. And for building beautiful and large green leaves Nitrogen is required, which comes from the soil through the roots. It is better to apply nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizers at the very beginning of the growing season. It is allowed to feed the plant even in the snow at the end of March and the first days of April.

When flowering time comes, potassium is needed. It is this that will help the plant bloom magnificently and for a long time. If there is a lack of one of the elements in fertilizing, the costs of its implementation will not be successful. Therefore, the use of two or three-component formulations is recommended. Watering with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers will improve the quality and size of flowers.

How to feed irises after flowering in July? Having given its strength to the formation of peduncles and ground parts, the plant is weakened. Therefore, subject to various diseases. Another source of potassium is wood ash. It can be used to sprinkle the soil around the crop, reducing the acidity of the soil and preventing fungal infections.

Feeding irises with potassium fertilizers with the addition of phosphorus is repeated 3-4 weeks after flowering, when next year's buds begin to form and new roots grow.

Additional Information: into the lineups autumn feeding It is recommended to add 3–5% sulfur powder to prevent bacteriosis.

For plants in their first year of life, the fertilizer rate indicated in the instructions is halved.

Timing and sequence of transplantation

To preserve the decorative appearance of the variety, it is recommended to change the planting location every 3–5 years. The crop can be replanted throughout the growing season. When to dig up irises for replanting? The best time is July or early August. If you plan to fertilize the soil, this should be done in advance. But in order not to burn the young roots, you can feed the flowers after rooting. Transplantation and subsequent care of irises requires consistency:

• the plant is removed from the soil;
• the flower stalks are cut off, leaving a couple of centimeters from the root;
• the leaves are shortened to a height of 8–10 cm, giving the shape of a pitched roof;
• cut the roots by 1/3, remove the dry ones;
• the rhizome is divided into parts, each of which has a growing point or a tuft of leaves;
• if rot has been removed from the rhizome, then it is treated with a weak solution of manganese;
• sprinkle the cut areas wood ash or crushed activated carbon and air-dried for 2-3 days;
• make a hole in the soil, add 200 g of sand, compost, ash and mix;
• an elevation is formed, the main root is placed on it, and the young thread roots are straightened lower, in the direction of growth;
• sprinkle with earth, lightly tamp, leaving a depression around the perimeter for watering;
• if the planting is not a single planting, maintain a distance between divisions of 30 to 70 cm, depending on the size of the roots.

Important! The back of the rhizome should be visible above the ground after planting.

Before the onset of cold weather, the crop will have time to take root and, under cover, will successfully withstand winter frosts. There is no need to remove it from the ground.

How to store irises before planting in autumn

When it comes time to dig up your irises, you need to think about storing them until future planting. Bulbous varieties of plants are taken out of the ground after flowering after 20 days. You should not wait until the leaves begin to turn yellow. The bulbs are dug up and cleared of soil. If necessary, wash with a disinfectant composition. The roots are trimmed to 1–2 cm and dried in a warm, ventilated area. Then placed in a cool place before planting.

Thanks to the exquisite and unusual shape, diverse color palette, this plant has taken a strong position in landscape design. In addition, caring for irises in the garden and on personal plots does not require much effort. And the result of following the basic rules of cultivation will be their abundant, lush and bright flowering.

Whatever roses you grow in your flower garden or at home, in any case it will be useful to know how to transplant roses correctly.

Features of transplanting an adult rose to replace a dead bush

When one of the rose bushes unexpectedly dies in the rose garden, another, also mature bush, is planted in its place.

When growing these beautiful flowers sooner or later the need for replanting arises - you need to move it into a pot immediately after purchase bigger size with fresh nutritious soil, and garden roses have to be replanted for various reasons:

• It is not always possible to initially correctly plan the design of the site, or construction suddenly begins, and there is no other choice but to move the flowerbed with roses to another place;
• when planting seedlings, neighboring plants were not taken into account, as a result of which the roses began to get sick and die;
• due to the sandy loam, excessively loose soil, the roots of the roses were buried, or in heavy clay soil they were squeezed to the surface;
• the main ones on the site were not taken into account;
• the soil under the mature bushes in the old rose garden has become depleted;
• The rose bushes have grown too much and have lost their decorative value.

The latter option is possible if you do not properly care for your own rooted roses, if you do not prune the roots of the bush in time and allow the stems to grow in different directions. It is not at all necessary to dig up the entire bush; it is enough to simply cut off and replant part of the bush, this way you will rejuvenate the old bush and get more out of it. abundant flowering. In addition, you will not have to worry about how to root the rose before planting it in a new place - it will already have a developed root system.

Video about correct transplant roses

In other cases, if landscape design The plot was thought out in advance, and a place suitable for all parameters was chosen for planting roses; there will no longer be a need to replant established rose bushes.

When one of the rose bushes unexpectedly dies in the rose garden, another, also mature bush, is planted in its place. In this case, you need to carefully approach the choice of plant - the rose must have the appropriate size of the bush, the color of its flowers must be harmoniously combined with the surroundings. It is better to use the same variety, since planting, for example, a strong-growing variety among weakly growing ones will negatively affect the rest of the plants.

A new bush can be replanted in April or October, having first dug up the old plant and completely replaced the soil with a new one to a depth of up to half a meter, within a radius of about 30 cm. For greater convenience, all necessary work It is recommended to prune neighboring rose bushes before replanting. And in order for an adult rose bush to take root better in a new place, all developing buds should be removed from it after replanting in the first year.

Transplanting roses

What to consider when transplanting roses

The best time to transplant roses is in early spring, before the buds open, or in October, three weeks before persistent frost. In spring, roses should be replanted in the late afternoon or in cloudy weather.

Overgrown before transplantation spray roses cut to 20 cm, climbing varieties- half, and standard ones - by a third. You should also remove weak and broken branches and tear off the leaves from the plant.

When digging up a rose intended for replanting, it is important to know whether it is a self-rooted bush or a grafted one. In the first case, the root system is located superficially in the ground, in the second case, the taproot goes deep into the soil. Taking these features into account, try to remove the rose bush from the ground as carefully as possible, along with the earthen lump. Don’t worry too much that some of the roots will still be lost - everything will be restored in a couple of weeks. Roots that are too long need to be trimmed.

A dug up rose can be moved to a new location by tying the root system in fabric

A dug up rose can be moved to a new location by tying the root system in fabric so that the lump of earth does not fall apart and the roots are not damaged. Plant the plant directly with the fabric - it will soon rot in the ground.

Pit preparation

Ready landing hole begin about three weeks before the intended transplant. The dimensions of the new planting hole should be no less than the hole from which the rose bush was dug. The average diameter of the hole is approximately 60 cm, depth - 45 cm. Loosen the bottom of the hole and fill it with soil mixed with compost, and fill it with regular soil on top so as not to burn the roots of the roses. Before planting the rose, water the hole well.

Planting a rose

The grafted rose is placed in the planting hole so that the root collar is about five centimeters below ground level. For a rooted rose, the lump of earth with roots should be level with the surface of the earth. Cover the installed plant with garden soil, lightly tamp it down and water it generously.

Video about correct landing roses

Fertilizers for roses

Around the transplanted rose bush, at a distance of 15 cm from the shoots, add those intended for roses. mineral fertilizers(at autumn transplant nitrogen fertilizers are excluded), loosen the soil again to a depth of no more than 10 cm and water. Mulch the surface of the soil around the rose with well-rotted manure. For the winter, do not forget to hill up the bushes and remove all immature shoots.

In the next three years after the transplant, try not to move freshly planted roses to a new place - let the plants come to their senses.

Very often we have to remember the wonderful words “We are responsible for those we have tamed.” Now that many city residents have been able to become summer residents, and numerous garden centers offer planting material from the most different countries, there is clearly a lack of knowledge about how to properly care for young seedlings and how to help plants adapt to unusual conditions so that a thin twig will bring you more joy rather than disappointment. Our tips will also help you care for plants that are weakened after winter, heat or illness.

Not many people know that the key to the successful growth of your plants is right choice the seedling is still in the garden center or nursery, and then transported to the planting site. It is very sad to watch how enthusiastic summer residents dashingly carry, as they say “with the breeze,” young seedlings with bare roots, and often with leaves, on the roof of their car. And then they are indignant that they were sold or given “low-quality” planting material. Before transporting, be sure to try to dip the roots in a clay mash, or wrap them in damp burlap, any fabric and polyethylene, and immediately before planting, soak the roots in water for several hours. Before planting, it is recommended to use pruning shears to remove damaged and renew cuts at the ends of the roots. If you do not have time to plant the seedlings before the leaves emerge, be sure to remove them to reduce water evaporation (transpiration) until the plant takes root. It is much safer to purchase a plant with a lump of earth or grown in a container. But they also need to be transported carefully, protected from wind and scorching rays. If a large plant is being replanted, dug out of the soil with a lump, especially in warm weather, it is recommended to cut off part of the crown (from 1/3 to half) and remove some of the leaves to balance transpiration and the suction surface of the disturbed root system. The main thing now is that the plant takes root, and that the branches and leaves will grow back later.

If you have correctly prepared a planting hole of the required size and planted a young seedling in it (for trees it is important not to bury the root collar, but for shrubs and those grafted into the root collar this can even be useful), be sure to make a watering hole with raised sides. Often you have to observe when the plant is in the center of the tubercle, and the irrigation water spreads uselessly to the sides, without wetting the roots, as in the fairy tale “it flowed down the mustache, but didn’t get into the mouth.”

For vertical plants(trees, columnar conifers) in order to avoid swaying by the wind and disturbing the growing root system, be sure to install guy wires made of stakes and belts driven into the ground. Just do not tie the tree with a “noose”, which, as the trunk grows, will cut into the bark and block the movement of water and nutrients, and do not forget to place a piece of burlap under the bundle so that the bark does not rub when swayed by the wind.

Watering young seedlings, especially in the first year, should be regular and abundant, soaking the entire root layer to a depth of at least 10-15 cm. Depending on the size of the plant, approximately 10-15 liters are consumed per bush, and 20-30 liters per tree. However, there is no need to create a swamp either; the roots must breathe between waterings. In the evening and early in the morning, it is useful to sprinkle the crowns of freshly transplanted plants (except for areas with salt water), and in hot weather, organize shading screens from scrap materials (fabric, boards, cardboard, etc.).

Mulching the tree trunk circle with crushed bark, compost or other suitable materials helps maintain optimal humidity and protects young roots from sudden temperature changes and overheating.

Freshly transplanted plants are not fertilized until active growth and the appearance of growth. If fertilizers and soil loosening agents were applied during planting, begin fertilizing with half the dose recommended for adult plants. You can also carry out foliar feeding by spraying the crown with a solution 10 times less concentrated than for root feeding.

If your plant has suffered from frost, heat, disease, or pests, try not to give up, but carry out a set of measures as soon as possible to save it. Remembering how we care for sick people and infants, it is logical that we first need to understand the cause feeling unwell your pet (diagnosis), eliminate the cause, and then help the plant get stronger and begin to actively thrive again. If the plant has suffered so much that some of the branches have died, it is necessary to remove them as a source of infection to the living tissue or slightly lower. Plants flooded or damaged by excess fertilizer are transplanted into new light soil (including sand, peat, leaf soil, mature compost), after first cleaning the roots from damaged and dead parts. For root rot, the lump can be shed with solutions of Previkur, Strobi or potassium permanganate. Plants affected by diseases and pests (there are now many descriptions and photos on the Internet that will help establish a diagnosis) are cleaned, pruned and treated with appropriate pesticides, strictly observing the dosage and frequency of treatments. It is equally important to create for the plant the conditions that it prefers in nature. Those. For light-loving plants, give light, breathable, well-drained soil and moderate watering; for shade-loving plants, diffuse soft light under the tree crowns and sufficient moisture, etc. You should not continue to treat hostas in the scorching sun, and the geranium will languish in the shade with any care. Fertilizing begins only when the plant begins to grow and very carefully, gradually increasing the concentration of the solution to normal.

To activate root formation and better survival of plants, the earthen ball is spilled with special solutions stimulant drugs. The drug Radifarm, produced by the Italian company Valagro, has proven itself well - a rooting stimulant with a wide range of applications. It contains substances that not only stimulate, but also support the formation and development of the root system. Geteoauxin (kornevin) is used to treat the root system of shrubs and trees before planting and watering after planting (2-3 times).

It is also useful to spray the needles or leaves with the stimulants Zircon or Epin. Zircon is a growth regulator, root former, flowering and disease resistance inducer, obtained from plant materials. The use of Zircon increases the growth and development of plants, stimulates root formation, as well as protecting plants from frost, drought, excess moisture, and lack of light. Zircon accelerates the onset of flowering of ornamental crops, reduces the degree of damage by many diseases, for example, late blight, downy mildew, bacteriosis, fusarium, gray mold, powdery mildew and etc.

Epin is a natural bioregulator, stimulator of plant growth and development. In floriculture, epin is used as a stimulator of fruit and root formation, to rejuvenate weakened plants, and increase resistance to plant diseases and pests.

Victoria Roy
landscape designer
especially for the Internet portal
garden center "Your Garden"

Hello!

Agree, flowers in the house are a joy for the soul, a kind of little oasis, looking at which we give rest to both our nerves and our eyes tired of the computer and TV.

Moreover, most flowers do not require our constant attention; most often they only have to be watered, and all other “operations” must be carried out from time to time - fertilizing, spraying, replanting.

And today we will master the most important operation, we will learn how to correctly replant indoor flowers that have long taken root in our home, and flowers purchased in a store.

So, based on our requests, we chose a flower and, satisfied with the purchase, brought it home. Now it is imperative to follow all the rules for transplantation, otherwise after a while you will have to hold a funeral ceremony to remove the dried “body”. Or, at best, the flower will hurt for a long time, get used to it, but will never become as beautiful as it was at first.

Transplanting purchased flowers has its own nuances, during which housewives often make the same mistakes. If you are planning to transplant an already established pet, then points 3-5 will be useful to you.

• 1 5 main mistakes when transplanting purchased flowers
  • 1.1 1. First mistake - after purchase, the plant is immediately placed next to other house flowers
  • 1.2 2. The second and most important mistake is that a flower bought in a store is left to grow in the same pot in which it was sold.
  • 1.3 3. Third mistake - incorrectly selected soil
  • 1.4 4. Fourth mistake - flower transplantation is carried out according to a sparing scheme
  • 1.5 5. Fifth mistake – early feeding plants

5 main mistakes when transplanting purchased flowers

1. First mistake - after purchase, the plant is immediately placed next to other house flowers

You shouldn’t do this, because if your “newbie” is infested with pests, it will also harm its neighbors. Therefore, after purchasing, we send the plant to “quarantine”, during which time it will at the same time be able to “get used” to the house. Usually “flower quarantine” lasts 1-2 weeks, during which the flower acclimatizes, and we do not disturb it, do not fertilize it or replant it.

During this time, we observe the plant and if pests and pathogens do not appear on it, then we safely place it in our collection. If they do appear, then we “identify” the pest and neutralize it by treating it with special preparations.

2. The second and most important mistake is that a flower bought in a store is left to grow in the same pot in which it was sold.

The fact is that transporting natural soil in open containers (which are flower pots) across the border is prohibited. Therefore, manufacturers replace the nutrient soil with an inert mixture during transportation.

The inert mixture is a combination coconut flakes, perlite (a natural form of volcanic glass) and long-acting concentrated fertilizers. Plants can live and develop in such a mixture only for a limited period of time. And if you don’t rid the plant’s root system of it, they will die.

Alternatively, plants in stores may be kept in peat, which is also detrimental to them at home.

Several times during transplantation, right in the main pot of soil, on the roots of the flowers, I discovered special bags or small pots. If they are not removed, the plant will simply stop growing and developing. Therefore, replanting flowers in pots is vital.

3. Third mistake - incorrectly selected soil

There are now primers on sale for different types plants. But, based on my experience, I will say that they are still not ideal for replanting your green pets. And almost always, the composition of the soil has to be adjusted.

Soils can be:

Too dense, then we add additives to it that will loosen it, allowing the roots of the plant to breathe. You can add coarse sand (river, lake), or perlite, which we talked about above, in this case performing the functions of sand. Or long-fiber peat (in which imported plants grow in stores).

If the soil, on the contrary, is too peaty, it is necessary to compact it by adding a more dense and nutritious type of turf soil.

4. Mistake four – transplanting flowers is carried out according to a gentle scheme

That is, the flower is transplanted into home potty along with some of the soil from the purchased pot in which it grew. This technique is not suitable for purchased flowers.

In transplanting imported plants the most important role technology plays a role, with it, first of all, we must cleanse the root system of the plant from the “substrate” in which it was located from the moment it left the foreign greenhouse until the moment it arrived at your home.

Remove the plant from the transport pot and place its roots in a container with warm water from the tap to soak them. While the flower is soaking, we place drainage at the bottom of the pot and add nutritious soil.

When the main part of the substrate “falls off” from the roots of the plants, carefully remove it, holding it by the base of the trunk, and transfer it under running water. Under running water, completely wash away the remaining substrate from the roots. After this, it is recommended to spray the root system with a preparation like Kornevin, but to be honest, I have never done this.

Carefully lower the plant onto the prepared soil and completely sprinkle the roots on top. Then water generously with warm, settled water.

When transplanting indoor indoor flowers, we use the same technology.

The only exception is that we do not wash off the soil from the roots, but only shake it off a little and lower the plant, along with the remnants of the “native” soil, into the prepared pot, fill the root system with the prepared soil and water it with settled water. That's it, our flower is absolutely happy, but it is still weak, so we protect the transplanted flower from cooling, drafts and waterlogging.

5. Fifth mistake – early feeding of plants

After such a “cruel” transplant, many housewives want to help their pet recover and settle into new conditions, for which they begin to add various supplements. But under no circumstances should this be done. You can start feeding the transplanted plant no earlier than a month and a half later, and only after it shows the first signs of normal rooting - new leaves, sprouts, and shoots appear.

This rule also applies to indoor flowers.

The transplant method I described may seem too traumatic. But don’t be afraid, in fact it turns out to be much more humane for the plant, since the pet will not suffer in a substrate unusual for its habitat.

I applied this method of transplantation to all plants purchased in the store, and they all tolerated it safely, continuing to grow and delight with their beauty. The only “missing” plant I had was myrtle, but it disappeared due to improper care behind him, the intricacies of which at that time I did not know, but this is a completely different story.

I hope that my experience in replanting green pets will be useful to you, and if I missed anything in the article, I will be glad to receive your tips.

And finally, I would like to say that green helpers not only bring us spiritual pleasure, they help us improve our body health by purifying the air. Some of them absorb carbon dioxide, others absorb dust, and still others are capable of killing bacteria. A little hint on what to choose from this useful variety.

Absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen:

Sansiviera, which is popularly called “pike tail”, chlorophytum, coffee tree.

Plants that can absorb dust.

Conifers have these properties: spruce, pine, juniper, cypress. In the house, of course, they can only be in the form of a small coniferous tree - bonsai. I have never come across coniferous bonsai in flower shops, and even searching for them on the Internet has not yet yielded results. Although I would buy such a bonsai with great pleasure.

Fight harmful bacteria:

Chlorophytum, asparagus, monstera, myrtle and eucalyptus.

They help relieve tension and fatigue, soothe and improve sleep, so it makes sense to place them in the bedroom:

Rosemary, lemon balm, and the well-known geranium.

Deal with toxins:

Ivy, ficus, philodendron, dracaena and aloe.

Azalea or rhododendron have a rare gift.

They say that this plant can relieve not only fatigue, but also hangover. To do this, it is enough to spend half an hour in the same room with this “green doctor”. We didn’t check the advice because we don’t drink that much – sir

All of the above advantages sound very convincing, so that you want to buy a green beauty for your home, especially since now you know how to properly replant both indoor flowers and flowers bought in a store.

How to fertilize correctly garden trees when transplanting— today we will dwell on this issue, since a misunderstanding about this process can lead to the death of the tree.
Plants are most easily transplanted in the fall during the period of natural deep dormancy. Therefore, it is highly advisable to transplant ornamental and fruit crops after the complete end of their growing season. In principle, you can plant fruit trees also in winter and spring, but the outside air temperature must necessarily exceed zero degrees.

For successful transplantation and survival of seedlings, the following sequence of actions is important - first cold snap, then leaf fall, as a result of which the plants enter the dormant stage, and only after this period the seedlings are transplanted. Don't get confused! During this period, transplantation gives, according to observations, the highest percentage of survival.

Planting a garden does not mean that you will always have a stable harvest. As each tree grows, it needs more and more different nutritional components. It’s a paradox, but the less fertilizer you apply, the better it is absorbed by the tree itself. And the more fertilizers there are, the higher the likelihood of root death or other diseases. It is especially important to feed the tree when replanting it even a short distance from the main place in the garden, not to mention changing the soil. In this case, it loses about eighty percent of its roots.

When the roots begin to come into direct contact with undecomposed organic matter, nitrogen or potassium, that is when they can become dead and the tree can die. Therefore, do not rush to fertilize immediately, but simply loosen the soil more often, water it and monitor the water temperature during the watering process. But when new roots grow, then water the tree trunk circles with weak solutions complex fertilizers or put well-rotted manure and dig up the soil shallowly along with it. Such prepared manure, humus, and compost can be mixed and added to the hole when backfilling it after transplanting the seedlings.

Organic fertilizers play a physical role in the life of a plant. They improve its structure and at the same time nourish the plants. In addition, this type of fertilizer perfectly mulches the soil around the tree. Such mulch should always be preserved under raspberries. And so that the soil does not dry out and always “keeps” the desired and comfortable temperature for raspberries, the mulch is covered with straw or white sponbond on top. Nitrogen should be added to trunk circle only if necessary and only when you are sure that the trees have completely taken root.