How to make an ax out of wood. Making a taiga ax. How to plant an ax on an ax handle - important rules

How to make a good, reliable ax with your own hands at home?

By remaking an ordinary ax, you can give it special properties necessary for work. Such an ax will last much longer and better than a regular store. A hunter in the taiga cannot do without a reliable ax, which should be as versatile as possible. There are many axes on sale: from large and medium construction and carpentry to small axes suitable for various household needs. But the taiga ax must have special properties that can be given an ordinary ax by redoing it.


An ax with soft and slightly hardened steel should be preferred to an ax with a “dryish” steel. When chipping the blade, this drawback can be easily eliminated by steeper sharpening. The shape of the sharpening should be parabolic, but not razor and not straight (Fig. 1). An ax with such a sharpening does not jam in wood, it splits firewood well, it becomes less dull. With sufficient sharpness, such a blade is quite suitable for carpentry. Much in the understanding of rationality is given by the forms of old Russian axes, as well as the axes of the Carpathian lumberjacks, North America, in which the upper edge of the blade never forms an angle of more than 90 ° with the axis of the ax handle. All commercially available axes have a wide blade and a protruding upper edge (Fig. 2). The shaded part sharply reduces the efficiency of the ax, since at the moment of impact this part tends to unbend the ax handle, creating in it. unnecessary vibration, and thereby dampens the impact force. To eliminate this shortcoming, the shaded part is removed. The easiest way to do this is to drill a series of adjoining holes along the cut line, and remove the hardened part with an abrasive.
The straight blade of the ax must be changed to a convex one (Fig. 3), if the width of the hardening of the blade allows. A straight edge is designed only for carpentry, and when such a blade cuts, while simultaneously touching the entire edge and hitting the tree at a right angle, it has poor penetrating power. Each point of the convex edge enters the wood under acute angle(Fig. 3), a cutting effect occurs, as a result of which the penetrating power of such a blade increases dramatically. Despite the fact that the weight of the ax will decrease after processing, its efficiency will increase. The author proposes two variants of axes (see Fig. 4 and photo). One of them is lightweight, designed for running hunts, small trips, and also for commercial hunting with a saw. The total weight of such an ax is 800-1000 g, the length of the ax handle is 40-60 cm. Another is heavy, for commercial hunting and long-distance trips, during which significant work has to be done. Its weight is 1000-1400 g, the length of the ax handle is 55-65 cm. The choice of the length of the ax handle is determined by the quality of the wood, the height and strength of the hunter.
Of course, axes hand-crafted by blacksmiths are better both in terms of steel and in terms of angle and balance, but there is one very capricious detail - a wooden ax handle. This part must be made using special technology. Making an ax handle, a wedge and landing an ax is much longer and more difficult than forging an ax (even, probably, Damascus). Checking how well the ax handle and landing is made is much more difficult than checking the quality of the ax itself. In addition, the ax requires special daily care and certain conditions of detention. If all the points are not met, then the result is always the same: Either the ax flies off, or the ax handle breaks. Having properly prepared the ax, you can begin to manufacture the ax handle. It must be thin. The smaller its weight relative to the weight of the ax, the stronger the blow. The ax handle must be flexible: a hard ax handle “dries” the hand. In cross section, it has an ovoid, but flattened shape with a sharper anterior and rounded posterior edges. It is best to make an ax from the butt of ash, maple, elm. You can also use curly fine-layered birch. The most suitable butt thickness for harvesting ax handles is 35-40 cm. The raw butt should be split, then dried with sealed ends.



An ax handle with a longitudinal arrangement of layers (Fig. 5) is stronger. In front of the ax attachment, the center of gravity is found on the ax handle (Fig. 6). Usually this point (C) is located at the base of the lug. Then determine the middle line of the ax AB, passing through the middle of the butt and the top of the edge of the blade. This line is the tangent along which the ax will move when struck.

If you put the blade with point B perpendicular to the midline AB on the plane, then the end of the ax handle will have to touch the same plane at point C. The middle line of the ax handle (PR) is drawn, the point P is on this line and is 3.5-4 away from the plane CB see. The cutting of the ax handle is clear from fig. 5, where the shaded parts of the workpiece must be cut off. The distance from the lower edge of the eye (point K) to the point of maximum bending of the ax handle (point O) is 10-11 cm. At point O, the hand holds the ax during carpentry work. In this place, the circumference of the ax handle is 12-13 cm, and the thinnest place at the end of the ax handle is 9-10 cm. Finally, the thickness is adjusted according to the hand. The ax ends with a thickening in the form of a “fungus” that fixes the hand (it is clearly visible in the photo). Such an ax handle is indispensable in cold and rain, when gloves or mittens are on the hands. "Fungus" allows you to relax your hands at the time of work. The strength and accuracy of the blows of a "relaxed" ax cannot be compared with the blows of an ax that you have to hold tightly, being afraid to let go of it. On the blank for the "fungus", a thickening is provided in advance; it is processed last in order to exclude chips when the ax is mounted. Getting to the nozzle, you need to place the workpiece. When adjusting the ax handle, you should constantly check the landing angle by applying the ax to the plane (in Fig. 6 this is the NE line). In the ax handle, fitted to two-thirds of the depth of the eye, a cut is made under the wedge to the same depth (Fig. 6), after which seat finally adjusted. Before driving the wedge, it is useful to dry the ax handle with the mounted ax for two to three days.
Immediately after fitting (or after drying), the ax is removed from the handle, the fitted parts are liberally smeared with BF-2 glue, and the ax is finally mounted. Glue is also applied to a pre-prepared wedge made of hardwood (ash, maple, elm, apple, pear) and the wedge is hammered. To prevent the wedge from breaking when driving, it is made short. To completely dry the glue, the ax must be dried for a day on a battery or by the stove. Finally, the handle is processed by hand, skinned and impregnated with drying oil or linseed oil.

The finished ax remains sharpened. An ax will save a lot of effort and time if its blade is always sharply sharpened. It is useful for this to have plywood cut to the size of the breast pocket, glued on both sides with waterproof sandpaper - coarse and micron. Such plywood is enough for the whole season, if the ax does not require serious regrinding.

Hi all! This summer I went on a 5 week trek in the Alps with a few friends. The time spent left a lot of positive impressions. But during this journey, I discovered that I forgot one very important tool - an ax. After a long day in the mountains, it's nice to sit by the fire and drink beer. But in order to make a fire without an ax, we had to spend a lot of time looking for small branches that can be broken by hand.

Therefore, as soon as I arrived home, I had the idea to make a tourist hatchet, in which, like in a knife, a saw is hidden and there is a beer opener.

In this master class, I will tell you how you can make such an ax yourself.

Ax design

The design of this ax consists of three parts.

ax blade

The shape of the blade was borrowed from the tomahawk, an ax used by Native Americans and European colonists. But you can change its shape by adding some spikes or a mallet on the butt. The ax blade will be glued to the handle and fastened with rivets.

opener

At first, as an opener, I wanted to make a suitable hole in the blade. As a result of test drilling, it was found that conventional drill it's impossible to make a hole, so I changed the look of the opener. You can see both options in the image. The new type will be made in the form of a specially shaped hook.

Saw

I wanted the ax to come with a saw, and I thought it would be nice if it hid like a jackknife. From the handle and it can be expanded using the finger recess. The saw will hide between the two pads. The shape of the metal part of the handle will allow the saw to be fixed in both the open and folded positions.

Once the design was chosen, I tried it on a circular saw blade to get the dimensions right.

Materials and tools

This ax is made from a used saw blade and hardwood that I had. I had to purchase only a folding saw blade. It was already hardened, so it did not need heat treatment.

Materials:

• Old circular saw blade.
• Hardwood timber (approximately 50 x 40 x 300 mm).
• Epoxy resin.
• Large nails for use as rivets.
• Folding saw blade (I used 200mm).
• Bolt, nut and washer.

Tools:

• Angle grinder (don't forget your protective equipment!).
• Rasp.
• File.
• Sandpaper.
• Drill.

Let's make sparks!

I transferred the outlines of the ax and the metal part of the handle to circular saw and cut them out using an angle grinder with a fine cut-off wheel. Then with the help grinding wheel, angular grinder and files I completed the formation of the elements. The final shape of the metal part of the handle can be given later.

Handle making

You can glue the template to a wooden blank and cut out two overlays. I used my milling machine with CNC.

Drilling in hardened steel

I didn't have a carbide drill, so I wasn't sure how the hardened ax would work. I came across a video where it was told that a sharpened drill bit for concrete can be used to drill hardened metal. So I did, and it worked out pretty well.

Adding an opener

This is probably the most indispensable part of the ax! Whenever I go camping, my friends and I usually have a couple of beers around the campfire in the evening. Opening them with stones and tree branches is very inconvenient. So I thought this detail would come in handy. I transferred the outline of an ordinary opener to the blade of an ax and cut a recess into it. Works great :)

Handle drilling

Next, I drilled holes in the handle and checked if everything fits. The metal part of the handle should act as a spring that will fix the saw blade. If it is too elastic, it can be made thinner. First, I used the metal part of the handle as a template for making holes. Then I fastened the two linings with clamps and then drilled through hole. Thus, all the corresponding holes were in one line.

To connect the parts of the ax without gluing, I used bolts. This way you can check whether all the parts of the ax fit and whether the saw folds correctly.

Blade sharpening

After the contour of the descent of the blade was drawn out, I used an angle grinder with a grinding disc for rough processing. Then for more fine workmanship a file went into action and grinding machine(use water to cool the blade). The final sharpening was done using the grinding wheel of the sharpening machine.

I am not an expert in sharpening an ax blade, so you can do this in another way.

The ax will mainly be used to split the tree into smaller pieces, so I did a little test of its functionality.

Bonding and riveting

An ax is a tool necessary for any country farm. It is useful when chopping firewood, and when building a house, and when cutting game. Unfortunately, not all axes on the market are reliable and convenient. Some of them are even dangerous! Therefore, if you have a need for "clumsy" work, you can try to make quality tool with your own hands. We will now tell you how to make an ax.

Components of an ax: metal sheet, ax handle and wedge

An ax handle is a tool handle, the convenience of the work performed depends on its length and shape. Straight stick with a round section - not the most the best option. The hand, holding such a tool, experiences increased stress and quickly gets tired. Much more practical is a curved ax with a section in the form of an oval with straight sections. The tail section is desirable to expand and bend down. Then at strong blows reliable holding of the ax in the hands will be ensured.

Ax scheme: 1 - butt, 2.9 - wedges, 3 - blade, 4 - toe, 5 - chamfer, 6 - heel, 7 - beard, 8 - ax handle, 10 - sharpening

The process of making an ax looks like this:

1. Material preparation

Durable ax handles are obtained from oak, birch, maple, ash.

Wood for ax handles is traditionally harvested in autumn, before frost. Barked logs are laid in the attic, in a dry and dark place to dry. The blanks must lie in storage for less than a year. Some experts recommend even longer drying - 5-7 years.

However, if your ax handle is broken, but you urgently need to chop logs, then fresh wood can also be used. This is a temporary option, since after drying the wood will in any case decrease in volume and the handle will begin to “dangle” in the eye.

2. Cutting the template

A cardboard template is necessary for transferring the contours of the projected ax handle to the wood surface and manufacturing a tool with the desired dimensions. As a sample, you can use a ready-made ax with which it is convenient for you to work. The handle of the "standard" is circled with a pencil on a sheet of cardboard, cut out and a template is obtained.

3. Making a blank bar

From the dried chock, strictly along the fibers, a bar is squeezed out - a blank for the ax handle. The length of the bar should be approximately 100 mm longer than the intended size. finished product. The width of the blank in the front (which is mounted on the ax blade) should exceed the width of the metal eye by 2-3 mm.

A template is applied to the bar on both sides, its contours are transferred to the wood. In this case, the template is positioned so that an allowance of 10 mm remains from the front of the bar, and 90 mm at the end (in the tail section). The allowance in the shank serves to prevent splitting of the handle when fitting the metal sheet. It cuts off after final assembly.

4. Extrusion of an ax handle

In order to finally bring the ax handle to the right sizes, top and bottom of the bar make transverse cuts. Their depth should not reach the intended contours of the ax handle by 2 mm. Excess wood, along the cuts, is chipped off with a chisel. Finally, up to the contour lines, the material is cut with a rasp. A file (bastard or rasp) rounds bends, corners, transitions. The final polishing is carried out with sandpaper.

5. Impregnation with a waterproof composition

The best means for wood impregnation - drying oil and linseed oil. The hatchet is coated with any of these oils. After it dries, apply the next layer. This is done several times until the oil stops being absorbed.

The hatchet should not be slippery, so cover it with varnishes and oil paints Not recommended. You can mix a small amount of dye into the drying oil, for example, orange, red or yellow. An ax with a bright handle will be clearly visible in the grass and will not get lost.

For information on how to make a high-quality ax handle for an ax in field conditions, but in compliance with all the rules, see below:

Choice of metal sheet and ax head

It is almost impossible to make a metal sheet with an eyelet at home, so you will have to buy it ready-made. When buying, pay attention to:

• steel quality - ideally, the product is marked with the GOST badge, and not TU or OST;
• blade - should be smooth, without dents, cracks, bends;
• eye shape - in the form of a cone;
• butt ends - should be perpendicular to the blade.

At the end of the ax handle, two axial lines are drawn - longitudinal and perpendicular to it. A groove is cut along the contour of the longitudinal line to the depth of the eyelet - this cut will be necessary for wedging the ax handle. Then a butt is attached to the end and the contours of the eye are outlined, focusing on the center lines. With a knife, an ax or a planer, the landing part of the ax handle is cut off, giving it the shape of an eye. Moreover, this is done in such a way that the ax protrudes beyond the eye by about 1 cm.

With the help of hammer blows, an ax is planted on an ax handle. Do this carefully so that the wood does not crack. After the butt goes beyond the boundaries of the butt, they check the strength of the fit of the blade - it should sit tight, not slip off.

Attaching an ax to an ax handle: a - fitting, b - attachment, c - wedging; 1 - ax, 2 - ax handle, 3 - wedge

Wedging the ax - a guarantee of a firm fit

Wedging serves to enhance the reliability of fastening the metal part of the ax to the ax handle. The safety of working with this tool depends on this. Wedging is carried out by driving a wedge made of hardwood (oak, walnut, yew, etc.) into the end part of the ax handle. Accordingly, the volume of the landing part of the ax handle increases and “tightly” sits down in the eye.

For the manufacture of a wedge, a wooden, well-dried plank about 5-10 mm thick is used. The working part of the wedge is equal to the depth of cut. Using a rasp, the wedge is cut so that its sides are parallel to each other. Only the very end is machined with a double-sided chamfer. The thickness of the wedge near the chamfer should exceed the width of the cut by 1 mm, at the end of the working part - by 2 mm.

Scheme of the wedge used for wedging an ax handle

To drive a wedge, the ax is placed vertically on a hard surface (table, anvil, etc.). With a chisel, the groove of the cut is expanded, a wedge is installed and hammered into it. Before driving, you can lubricate the wedge with glue (without a rubber component) - to prevent it from being pushed out of the cut and a more secure fit.

Groove extensions for easier wedge driving

Wedging an ax with one wedge is a popular and reliable option

Wedging with one wedge is not the only possible variant. Some masters prefer to use more wedges, for example, two or five. In the latter case, the first wedge is driven into longitudinal groove at the end of the ax handle (as when wedging with one wedge), and then the remaining four are driven in perpendicular to the first. How to put an ax on an ax handle, and then wedging is shown in detail in the video plot:

Proper technology for sharpening an ax blade

A do-it-yourself ax blade will perform its function only if the sharpening angle and bevel width are maintained correctly.

The sharpening angle affects the convenience of the ax and the degree of its functionality. If you plan to cut wet, freshly cut wood, then the sharpening angle should be approximately 20 °. If dry trees, then 25-30 °.

The width of the bevel is also very important, but in ready-made blades, change it to the usual home master not under power. However, there is a way out: grind off the ax blade with a double “descent”. The first corner is turned at 15°, the second at 25° (average value).

Ax sharpening: a - sharpening angle, b - chamfer width (should exceed the thickness of the blade by 2.5-3 times)

The ax is sharpened on an electric grinder. At the same time, they make sure that the blade does not overheat much - this leads to a deterioration in hardness near the cutting edge. Therefore, taking on the sharpening process, you should put a container of water next to the grinder to cool the metal. It is advisable to immerse the blade in water after each pass along the circle.

It is necessary to reduce the runout of the grinding wheel to a minimum by regularly dressing with special cutters. When sharpening, hold the ax so that the blade is directed towards the rotation of the electric grinder. The butt is held at 45 °. The blade is sharpened by smoothly moving the ax along the circle. The sharpening angle is carefully sharpened, the chamfer is polished.

Sharpening an ax on an electric grinder allows you to quickly get a sharp blade

The final sharpening of the ax (grinding) is carried out using a whetstone, regularly wetted with water. Instead of a bar, you can use a piece of plywood glued with sandpaper. Remember that working with a sharp ax is a pleasure, while a blunt tool will make you put in more effort, leading to quick fatigue.

Quality hand tool is one of the important criteria for its evaluation when choosing. A practical, convenient and reliable tool significantly increases labor productivity, facilitates the process itself and eliminates the possibility of injury. This is especially true for such a tool as an ax.

Its use provides for the presence of an intense dynamic load, which is characterized by a particular injury risk. With inept handling of the tool, the ax often flies off the handle and injures the worker. To prevent this from happening, you must first learn how to plant an ax on an ax handle.

About varieties

Today there are about ten varieties of chopping tools. And before you put an ax on an ax handle, you need to determine what type it belongs to: carpentry, combat, tourist, or is it a woodcutter's tool. Although all axes consist of a handle and a metal part, each type of tool differs in its purpose and structural features. Special recommendations apply to each on how to properly plant an ax on an ax handle. The photo below, for example, presents the features of fastening the metal part to the handle in a carpenter's ax. In other types of weapons, it is somewhat different.

How are the axes attached?

There are several methods for attaching the handle to the metal part:

• Welding. Provides reliability and durability of the tool.
• Manufacture of an ax in the form of a solid tool. Characterized by rigidity and strong recoil.
• Gluing method in special chamber with epoxy materials. For ax handles, polymeric materials are used, which are very difficult to glue at home. Drying chambers are required for such work.
• Putting the metal part on the handle with further wedging. This connection method is considered the most ideal for doing at home.

To successfully complete the work, you need good qualifications, time and an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bhow to plant an ax on an ax handle. Samomus can cope with this if you have the skills and necessary tools. In case of failure, if the metal chopping part is not securely attached to the handle or the structure has loosened over time, the procedure of mounting and wedging should be repeated again.

How to plant an ax on an ax handle?

Despite the seeming simplicity of connecting with the help of pushing and wedging, this work is not easy to do. It has its own nuances that should be taken into account. To facilitate the process, professional carpenters recommend following a step-by-step instruction that contains the following steps:

• preparation for work;
• manufacturing of steel and wooden products for wedging;
• planting and wedging.

Start. Preparatory stage

Before starting work, you must:

1. Buy an axe. As a material for its manufacture, according to experienced carpenters, dried birch is ideal. This tree very popular, as it has all the necessary properties for this. When choosing a handle, you need to consider the thickness of the product and its shape.
2. It is recommended to check the handle for a comfortable grip. Ignoring this aspect will lead to the need to perform unnatural compensatory power movements during felling, and this, in turn, is fraught with rapid fatigue.
3. Fit the acquired ax to the eye of the ax. The job is to use a knife or other woodworking tool to trim the handle to desired shape(straight or conical). Tapered lugs are considered the best as they provide a very secure fit.
4. Make a cut at the top of the handle. this work performed at the end. A cut is a longitudinal groove, which is performed using You can make one (along the end) or several cuts (three side and one longitudinal). It depends on how the master decides to plant the ax. According to professionals, the most effective is a longitudinal cut with four side cuts. An important nuance at this stage, the width and depth of the cut are considered. The resulting groove must be hidden in the eye, otherwise, when wedging or during operation of the ax, its handle may split. The width must match the thickness of the wedges. But at the same time, they should not enter the cuts either too easily (the sawing procedure loses its meaning) or tight, since this can lead to splitting of the ax handle.
5. Before you put the ax on the handle, you need to align the axis of the blade and the axis of the handle in the same plane.

Wedge preparation

Reliable fastening of the chopping element with a handle is possible under the condition of high-quality wedging. To do this, the master will need wooden and metal wedges.

You can buy them at a hardware store or make your own. The shape and dimensions of the wedges must correspond to the type of cut and the material from which the ax handle is made. For a wooden wedge, dried birch wood is suitable. For metal product hard tin (shovel shovel) is suitable.

driving

Often, novice home craftsmen ask questions: how to properly plant an ax on an ax handle, how to hammer wooden and steel wedges?

Hammering is an easy process. This work should be started if the handle and wedges are already fully prepared.

The first to score the longitudinal is performed with light hammer blows. It is undesirable to knock hard, as this can flatten the tree, reducing the stability of the connection. After the wedge fills the cut with itself, the remains must be carefully cut using a hacksaw blade. The work is considered successful if, during the test, the ax mounted on the handle holds firmly and does not stagger.

wedging

According to the belief of beginners, wooden wedges should be from the same wood as the ax handle. But it's not.

• First of all, wood must be durable.
• The direction of the fibers must also be taken into account. It should be parallel to the narrowing of the wedge. This direction will prevent the latter from breaking when driven into the cut. A broken wedge does not perform high-quality expansion of the ax handle to the sides. Wedging is considered successful when the wedge has completely filled the entire space of the cut and it is impossible to remove it.
• In the manufacture of wedges, it is important that the dimensions of the transverse products correspond to the size of the eye.
• In some cases, the lug may have gaps. You can fix them with gauze or bandage soaked in the material protects the wood from getting wet and performs a reinforcing function. To perform reinforcement, it is necessary to wrap several layers of gauze around the upper part of the handle before inserting the ax. The resin is poured into the cuts and fills all the existing voids and cracks. After it hardens, the wedges are clogged. At the same time, wooden wedges are driven first, and after that, iron wedges. The distance between them should be at least 0.3 cm. The iron wedge at the end is bent with one edge so as to cover the wooden one.

Which side to put the ax on the handle?

Features of planting an ax depend on its shape. For standard products Soviet production is characterized by a conical shape of the chopping part. This enhances its wedging qualities and eliminates errors when mounted on the handle.

According to the rules, you need to put on an ax in such a way that the wedge and the end of the handle protrude 0.5 cm beyond the eye. This is possible if the ax is planted with its narrow part towards the wedge, and its wide part towards the ax handle. With this mounting, the worker can, if necessary, put the loose chopping part back into place by tapping the ax on something hard. After that, you need to re-drive the wedge, but deeper.

In carpentry, reverse ax landing is often used. It is necessary in those rare cases, if the ax is used not as the main tool, but as an auxiliary tool to hedge or cut something. The reverse method of the nozzle is mainly used for sledgehammers and splitters. They do not have wedges. The entire load goes to the extreme part of the handle, which holds the metal part of the ax.

In conclusion

Depending on what shape the metal chopping part is chosen, it is decided which side to put the ax on the ax handle. It is important that the tool is comfortable and ergonomic.

Following the step-by-step instructions, you can quickly prepare the ax for work yourself.

An ax is an indispensable tool in the household. Especially for those people who live in a private house or spend a lot of time in the country. You can make an ax yourself. If you follow all the rules of this work, then the tool will be reliable and will last a long time. Before you make an ax, you need to study the recommendations of professionals.

You can make an ax handle for almost any shape. It depends on what the tool will be used for. The manufacturing process includes several stages:

• choice best options blanks;
• ax making;
• nozzle and wedging;
• sharpening.

How to choose the stabbing part?

When choosing a stabbing part, first of all, you need to pay attention to the quality of the metal used for its manufacture. It is recommended to choose blanks with the GOST sign. With a large selection of different models, you can choose an ax empirically. If you flick the blade of one ax against the blade of another, then the higher quality metal will leave notches on the less reliable version.

You can check the tool by tapping it suspended. In this case, the quality of the metal is determined by the nature of the sounds.

• there should be no defects on the surface of the blade;
• the eyelet should be cone-shaped;
• blade and eye must be coaxial;
• the end of the butt should be perpendicular to the blade;
• butt should not be too thick.

Back to index

Features of the manufacture of an ax handle

The length of the ax handle should be selected based on considerations of convenience for further operation. This takes into account the growth and strength of the master. For a relatively light tool, you will need to make an ax handle 40-60 cm long, heavier models can be with an ax handle 55-65 cm.

The quality of wood plays an important role in the choice of workpiece. Perfect option- the root part of a birch or growths on its trunk. It is permissible to use oak, maple, ash, acacia and other deciduous tree species.

The ax handle should have a thickening at the end, which will prevent the tool from slipping out of the hands. On the workpiece, it is necessary to make markings along the contour of the future handle and grind the excess wood with an electric jigsaw. After the initial processing, the blade and handle are tried on to each other using a mallet. If the parts fit tightly together, then you can proceed to the finishing of the wood surface.

First, looping is performed. This requires a piece of glass. Next, you need to sand the surface with sandpaper.

If the ax is easily inserted into the eye of the blade, then it will have to be completely redone using another blank for this. Simply inserting a wedge to seal the joint will not work. Back to index

Attachment of the blade on the handle

This stage is very important. Safety depends on it homemade tool. This work is carried out in stages:

1. The upper edge of the ax is adjusted to fit the eye. All excess is cut off with a knife.
2. A mark should be made on the handle to which the blade will be mounted. To do this, the ax handle is laid horizontally on the table, and a blade is placed on it. In the middle of the distance from the edge of the ax handle to the mark, you need to put another one.
3. Clamp the handle in a vise in a vertical position. In this case, the wide part should be directed upwards. In a narrow one, you need to make a cut with a hacksaw to the upper mark. A wedge will be installed in it.
4. From wood, you need to make a wedge of the same length as the depth of the cut, and the same width as the eye. Its thickness can vary between 0.5-1 cm.
5. Set the blade upside down on the table. Install the ax into the eye and perform several taps, when the ax begins to enter it, you need to turn it over and tap with the lower end of the handle. This must be done until the blade is completely planted on the handle.
6. Next, a wedge is inserted into the cut. It must be driven in with a mallet almost to the end or at least to the middle. The part that remains sticking out needs to be cut with a hacksaw.
7. Next, the tool is lubricated with oil. You can use flaxseed, sunflower or motor. Excess should drain and the surface dry a little. After that, the hatchet is wiped.