Sanding the frame. How to properly sand the interior walls of a timber house Grinding machine for a log house

(or you can go to the first photo in the left menu). But, in addition to installing the bathhouse and erecting a roof over it, in 2011 we managed to carry out a number of events in the house itself. Having completed the arrangement process new apartment, we will devote the entire next year 2012 to “bringing to mind” the house and, if possible, the bathhouse. This article will talk about the features of sanding the walls of a log house (in this case, the wooden walls of a house).

When you communicate with construction companies at the stage of designing and manufacturing a log house, you somehow don’t even imagine the whole burden of problems in the further construction of a house or bathhouse that you will have to shoulder in the future. And this situation is, of course, true not only for log houses and bathhouses, but also for any suburban construction.

But when all these problems begin to arise, you begin to appreciate the beauty of human relationships, because in one company they will simply turn their backs on you as soon as you have paid the last payment, while in others they will readily help and answer questions even several years after completion construction of a log house. I am very pleased that the Rus Log Company belongs to the second category, in fact, That’s why I ordered a bathhouse from them this year, and for the same reason I’m writing these lines.

Having hit the bumps in building a house, and now a bathhouse, I understand that other developers will also face these problems. Therefore, let our experience and the advice that we received from the specialists of “Rus...” become available to other clients of this company, and simply to connoisseurs of log houses and bathhouses.

So, our story today is about sanding the walls of a house. Well, to be more precise, this year we sanded and painted interior walls in the house, as well as internal and external walls in the log bathhouse. We will tell you about sanding the bathhouse and painting it in separate articles (see links), there we will briefly dwell on the features relating specifically to the work on the bathhouse. We will also talk about painting the walls of the house in a separate article; this question also turned out to be not as simple as we previously thought.

Photo of the living room in 2011 after sanding the walls.

You can see what our walls look like after sanding in the previous photo. Of course, the house began to be perceived in a completely different way. My only main mistake is that I should have done the sanding before installing the floors and ceilings, but we will dwell on this in more detail a little later. Now let’s go together along the entire difficult path that led to such beauty.

Note from autumn 2013. It’s always interesting to look ahead a little to understand “what all this was started for.” In the next photo you can see how the living room looked after sanding and painting the walls. Well, and at the same time after a number of other events (from a fireplace and heated floors, to tiles and doors).

Photo of the same living room, but taken in the fall of 2013.

Initiative is punishable or “come on guys”

At first glance, you cannot say that sanding the walls of a log house is hard work that requires skill, strength and endurance. When two years ago I found out approximately how much polishing would cost me inside the house, then I said: what nonsense is this, I can handle it just fine myself. Just think - drive and drive grinder. I was also “motivated” by my good friend and senior comrade, let’s call him Yu.V., since I did not ask for his consent to this publication. At one time (being a teacher, having two higher educations, a candidate of sciences and an associate professor), he built in a couple of weeks country house for his father-in-law. In short, in addition to a refined mind and a rather sharp tongue, which many were afraid of, he also had golden hands.

Of course, at work we often discussed the construction of my and his dachas. And then one day he asked me what I actually did at the dacha with my own hands, because you need to put your soul and heart into a house. So, I say, my wife and I seemed to be developing the project in agony, I planned and installed the electrics myself, and that’s probably all. And he told me - well, can’t you sand the walls yourself, and really, I thought, why not. By the way, Yu.V. I was very unlucky with the builders; he also built a log house, but he ordered it through mutual friends, and they let him down.

Hard man's work - sanding the walls of a log house

No sooner said than done. I already knew at that moment that they were polishing log walls an angle grinder, in common parlance - Bulgarian. Entering a large hardware store, I asked to show me all the attachments for the grinder. Having chosen two, in my opinion, the most suitable, I asked them to pick up the disks for them. I also already knew that for grinding wheels with a grain size of 80 are used. I especially liked the German attachment with Velcro; it was, of course, a little expensive (about 1000 rubles), but, in my opinion, very convenient.

Arriving at the dacha, I dropped everything and rushed to try my acquisitions in action. I had the good sense to start from an “invisible” place. In the bathroom on the first floor, I chose the wall where the shower will be located. The very first attempt at polishing showed that it was far from so simple.. The grinder was simply torn out of my hands and thrown from side to side, from under the circle on the new skin sparks began to fly in all directions, because of this, scuffs arose, I was unable to make a smooth stripe, everything turned out to be some kind of waves.

But the most unpleasant surprise awaited me when I tried to sand the log at the horizontal joint between the crowns. My vaunted German nozzle with its upper (i.e., back to the skin) part left a thick black streak on a nearby log. Another thing that unpleasantly struck me was that the 80's discs wore out at a very incredible speed. The delivered package of discs melted before our eyes. I tried the second attachment, where the grinding disc was secured with a bolt. As it turned out later, this was already closer to the truth, but even here it was very difficult to polish the logs in the cuts and at the joints. I installed the German Velcro attachment again, but in my disappointment I forgot to attach the sanding disc itself. When I started running the grinder along the log, I immediately felt that something was wrong. And then it dawned on me that “it wasn’t the reel, …” and I myself ruined the nozzle for almost a thousand rubles. This was the last “dot the i” and I finally realized that everyone should mind their own business.

Later, watching the guys work and communicating with them, I realized some of my mistakes. Firstly, you need another (second) nozzle. Secondly, the new disk must first be slightly ground down on an auxiliary section of the log (usually in openings for interior doors, what will be covered in the future with casing boxes) - in this case, the largest grains fly off and the disk will not “cut” the log and spark. Thirdly, I realized that the grinder should be moved not by moving the hands, but by using the shoulders and forearms, then smoothness and parallelism of the movement will be achieved, and accordingly the log will be smooth and without “waves”. The last recommendation will be clear to volleyball and tennis players. In volleyball, when receiving the ball with both hands from below, you also need to “work” with your shoulders and torso, and not bend your elbows, otherwise the ball will fly in an unpredictable direction. Similarly, in tennis, when receiving the ball with a racket held with two hands, similar work of the whole body is also required, and not just the hands.

We got a little distracted. In short, even if I knew all this in theory, in practice all this would still turn out to be hard work. But you still had to scrape it out with a chisel upper layer wood in the corners. In short, then I clearly decided for myself that I needed to do something around the house or the bathhouse, but I needed to do what I was good at.

By the way, to be objective, I wasn’t the only one who had such a “crazy” thought. WITH light hand employees of "Rus" I met and maintain friendly relations with Maxim Marinin, our famous figure skater and simply a wonderful person (editor's note, more details about the bathhouse built by Maxim Marinin are told).

Since he and I are in approximately the same state, in the sense of being drawn into the construction process, we periodically exchange interesting and useful information on various aspects of construction. So, once Maxim wrote that he had purchased a good grinding machine (not an angle grinder, but a specialized grinder) and was planning to grind the frame of the bathhouse himself. He, like me, was alarmed by the cost of this work - at first glance it seems overpriced. I told him my story described above and recommended that he still leave it to the specialists and do something more familiar himself. But Maxim is as purposeful as I am, and he decided to try everything from his own experience. The result turned out to be similar, we both realized that “what is Caesar’s is what is Caesar’s”, and it is better to earn money in the way we are accustomed to – it will be more effective.

Tools and consumables for grinding

Before bringing the builders to the dacha, I took care of the purchase grinding discs. The question turned out to be quite non-trivial. But first, a few words about the process itself. The main plane of the chopped walls is cleaned with a grinder with an attachment on, onto which a grinding disc is bolted. But there are places where the grinder does not reach - these are the corners of cuts, walls near the ceiling or near the floor (if you, like me, already have the floor installed). There you have to work manually - with a chisel. In the photo below you can see two such corners of the cuts. The upper corner has already been cleaned with a chisel, but the lower corner has not, the circles where the disk was able to reach are clearly visible.

Working with a chisel in the corners of cuts. In the upper corner a layer of wood has been manually removed, in the lower corner not yet.

It is clear that grinders, attachments and chisels are the concern of builders, but I advise you to take care of grinding discs separately so that unpleasant incidents do not occur.

The grinding discs came out in bunches. The photo on the left shows the mark on the disc grain size (60) in blue.

The best option is if the builders take on the “procurement” of sanding discs; it is more difficult if you have to do this (for example, buy additional ones). The fact is that a very large number of these disks are required. Offhand, it took us about two and a half boxes for the house and the bathhouse. Each box contains 8 packs, each pack contains 25 discs. In total, there are 200 discs in the box, about 500-600 discs in total. As the builders told me, it takes from 1 to 3 discs per square meter of wall, so count it. By the way, you need to calculate the area, and therefore the volume of work, and therefore your costs, correctly. Masters use the so-called height coefficient. The fact is that your walls are uneven, but with rounded crowns. Therefore, several control measurements are taken, a tape measure is taken, and the tape goes around all the bends of the crowns. It turns out that with a ceiling height of, say, 2.5 meters, the actual height of the wall turns out to be about 3 meters. For me this was news, but for you now it is no longer news.

Let's get back to the disks. If you go to a construction hypermarket and try to buy so many discs there, you will realize that it is cheaper for you to cover the walls with gold leaf. Of course, I had to promptly purchase several dozen disks, especially those with an increased diameter (150 mm); to be honest, this is not a cheap matter.

So what to do? There is a way out: turn to a “domestic manufacturer”! The fact is that supermarkets sell mostly imported products, and the specialists of Rus Log Chataya recommended purchasing discs from the Luga Abrasive Plant - they are several times cheaper, and the quality is not much inferior to imported ones. It is clear that not everyone will be able to “hit the road” to Luga, look for this plant, etc. Here it would be optimal if the builders organize it. I am grateful to the leadership of “Rus...” that I had no problems with this. Moreover, usually large construction companies, like Rus Log, purchase these disks in bulk (by wholesale we mean several dozen boxes, i.e. thousands of disks), which costs them significantly less than if you came to the factory yourself. Unfortunately, or rather to my sincere amazement, the Luga plant has neither a representative office nor even a retail outlet in St. Petersburg, which is a pity.

And one more aspect regarding discs is their grain. For For final sanding, 80 or 60 grit discs are used.(see circled numbers in photo above). Of course, the result of using 80 sandpaper is more pleasant to the touch, but most likely you will have to sand it in the second layer, and go through it with a coarser sandpaper the first time. In the house we did 80, and in the bathhouse we did 60, but in one layer. In principle, it feels almost imperceptible, especially after painting. By the way, looking ahead, I will say that after the first layer of water-based varnish you will have to sand the walls again, this time simply by hand, without a grinder, because... It is the water-based varnish that lifts all the pile formed on the surface. But we will talk about this in more detail in a separate article.

In addition to 60 and 80, builders use sanding discs with grit 40– for sanding the ends of logs, of course, much less of this sandpaper will be needed. I repeat - what in ideal Builders should take on all these problems so that you don’t have to quit your job and run around St. Petersburg and the Leningrad region in search of certain grinding discs.

Sanding a house: first and unsuccessful attempts or the role of recommendations

So, by mid-summer I had a paradoxical situation: there seemed to be money for construction and there were builders for certain jobs, but I couldn’t start work. The fact is that at that moment I was kept busy by sanding the walls in the house. I could not install casings and internal trim on the windows (the specifics of our windows are described) without sanding the walls. For the same reason, I could not lay plumbing connections around the house, make heated floors, etc. But the most important thing is the fireplace. The fireplace is a “separate story”. It was designed for us according to the author's design based on the Swedish Keddy fireplace cassette. We decided to make the fireplace lining from soapstone chloride; it was ordered back in the winter and was finally ready by summer. The installation of the fireplace, as you understand, was also maintained by sanding. And the fireplace itself supported the insulation of the roof of the house (by the way, we didn’t have time to do the roof this year and postponed it to 2012).

I called Denis Migachev, general. director of “Rus” and asked if his “fighters” could polish my house, and at the same time the bathhouse. He replied that, unfortunately, all the brigades were busy and on the move, and that, at best, the nearest brigade would be free in 3-4 weeks. I didn’t want to wait so long, summer is passing. We called out among our friends and one distant friend of a friend said that he had people in mind who had experience sanding walls wooden houses. At that time, I did not yet know all the intricacies of grinding and considered that this would be labor-intensive, but in principle a simple matter, this team can handle it too.

This coming Friday I went and picked up two “specialists” from the previous site and brought them to my dacha. The guys turned out to be from Ukraine, I organized their entire life, we walked around the house and examined all the walls. Andrey, he was their eldest, said that discs would be needed to polish the logs adjacent to the floor and ceiling larger diameter(150mm) which I should have bought.

Half of Saturday I ran around the shops looking for these discs - all to no avail, Velcro - please, but there were simply no such clamping ones. Desperate, I again called my “magic wand” Denis Migachev. He immediately said that I needed to go to the Castorama store, and indeed, there I picked up all the available disks of the size I needed at a “zero price”; by the way, the price tag was “biting”, each disk cost 50-70 rubles. Denis also scolded me that I did not wait for his guys, since here he clearly guaranteed quality. I had to apologize and refer to what I thought was an unacceptable time delay.

Arriving home, I called my grinders and “reported” that their request had been fulfilled - the discs had been purchased. And this Andrey responded to me and said that, in fact, they had already moved out of the dacha, the work was not interesting to them and the conditions did not suit them. I was simply taken aback by what I heard and slowly sat down on a chair. Wait, I say, I am inclined to dialogue, if there are problems, voice them, if this is really the case, I am ready to increase the price of the work. He answered me that the house is old (even though the frame is only 3 years old), sanding is very difficult, you have to first go through it with coarse-grained sandpaper, and then again - 80-coat. I hung up and began to come to my senses. In my 45 years, no one has ever done this to me. Well, find the courage in yourself and tell the customer that you are not interested in this, but say it to his face, but like this, leaving someone else’s trusted home, running away like a rat from a sinking ship - this was incomprehensible to me. Having come to my senses, I called this Andrey again and calmly “put him in his place,” explaining that “grown boys” don’t act like that, and that if I find even the slightest problem at my dacha, then I will find him with a friend at throughout the Leningrad region. In fact, I wasn’t lying, if this became a matter of principle, then thanks to my wife’s connections, we would be able to “ruin the lives” of these guys, I just usually don’t want to waste time and get my hands dirty on such people. My principle is to draw conclusions, forget and move on. That's what we did. The next day we arrived at the dacha, found the keys to the gate and the house in the place indicated by the would-be builders, and checked that everything was in order and in place. We began to think about what to do next - time was ticking.

Second attempt - with guaranteed results

As you understand, my next call was again to Denis, I told him the story that had happened and asked him to reserve his builders for me, we had nowhere to go, so we were ready to wait. Denis promised to speed up the process and, indeed, three days later they removed a specialist named Adrian from the facility, called his cousin Ivan, an aspiring specialist, to help him, but Adrian promised to organize the learning process “as the play progresses” and guaranteed that everything would be on the highest level. It was assumed that a couple more guys would arrive in a week or two, but later we abandoned this, since the pace of the builders’ work, and most importantly the quality, satisfied me.

The main task that I set for the sanders was to quickly sand and paint the house, primarily those rooms where the fireplace will be located and the chimney will pass through (on the second floor). Secondly, I decided to polish the inside of the bathhouse as well, in order to “close the topic.” Looking ahead, I note that later we decided to polish the bathhouse outside as well, “to walk, just walk,” although, of course, additional justifications appeared for this step.

The work has begun. The guys started from the second floor so that dust would not settle on the work already done. I’ll say right away – there was, of course, “immense” amounts of dust. To clean walls from dust, it is convenient to use ordinary brooms and a vacuum cleaner. Without a vacuum cleaner, of course, it’s difficult, especially later – when you need to clean the corners and joints of the logs before painting. I still had a “technical” vacuum cleaner, which we bought when renovating the apartment, here it served its purpose again.

Grinding is mountains of garbage... ...or fertilizer, depending on how you look at it :)

Based on the results of the work of the first “Uh brigade”, I realized that it was necessary to protect the mechanisms plastic windows and roof membrane. Therefore, I bought several packages of film (there is thin, and there is thicker - the second is better) - it is usually used to cover furniture and floors during renovations. I asked the guys to first cover all the window openings with film and staple the entire roof on the second floor (now we only have tiles and a waterproof membrane from the roofing pie in the house), the rest internal roof we planned to do it after installing the fireplace, sanding and painting the walls.

And so the work began to boil. I’ll say right away that it was a long process; in total, the guys worked for me for almost a month and a half. But during this time, the inside of the house was sanded, the bathhouse was sanded on both sides, all this was painted with varnish three times, and inside the premises - after the first layer of varnish, the pile that appeared was also manually sanded.

Watching them work, I studied grinding technology out of interest. Let's focus on the most important points this process. Sanding walls from a gun carriage can be divided into three components: processing the upper and lower edges of the log, as well as processing the flat part of the log. For round logs, everything is somewhat more complicated; you have to smoothly go around all the roundness of the wood. The described stages are illustrated in the next three photos.

Processing the bottom edge of the log

Grinding the top edge of the carriage log

Wall plane processing

Particular problems were caused by sections of the walls under the ceiling and near the floor. Therefore, let me remind you once again of my recommendation: the frame should be sanded BEFORE installing windows, installing ceilings and floors. The main thing is that the log house is under a roof. The presence of logs is welcome, it is convenient to temporarily throw boards on them - this is what happened to me in the bathhouse.

By the way, let's talk about one more recommendation that emerged during the work. Of course it's better to polish new log house than the already established one. In addition to the mentioned windows and floors, the hardening process of the wood also comes into play here. Accordingly, the consumption of skins on such a log house will be slightly higher. True, belated grinding also revealed advantages; we will talk about this in more detail in a future section devoted to insulating a log house after shrinkage.

Let's return to the difficult areas to work with. The floors were a little easier. We plan to install heated floors on both floors, heated by a heat pump, so the floor level will still be raised by 5-8 cm. This allowed us not to “fight” for the lower edges of the walls. But I really had to suffer with the walls near the ceiling of the first floor. For now we are planning to do it on the first floor stretch ceiling(they hide the unevenness of the wall logs well), they will be only 2-3 cm away from the existing rough OSB ceiling, so sanding the upper parts of the walls was important. Several times my workers threw up their hands and said that they would not be able to sand this or that section of the wall. We understood that, of course, this could be done with a chisel, but this would be absolutely hard labor.

In life, I am an optimist and an engineer, so every time I reassured Adrian and every time we found a solution. These solutions were born “in pain,” therefore, given that they may be useful to you, we will present them briefly.

Grinding hard-to-reach places under the ceiling, in some places we had to modify the tool, show ingenuity, or simply work with a chisel

“Know-how” that emerged as a result of brainstorming:

• the guys cut off the rubber attachment that holds the sanding disc and the sanding disc itself. Thus, from a disk with a diameter of 125 mm we obtained a disk with a diameter of 70-80 mm, which made it possible to work in many hard to reach places Oh;
• somewhere I closed my eyes to the “waves” on the surface of the crowns, because I understood that this zone could only be polished with short vertical movements;
• without hesitation, I allowed the guys to “scratch” the rough ceiling, because there was no other way;
• where it was really tight, I had to work only with a chisel, but there were only two such places left, and they were small ones.

By the way, my experiments with the grinder came in handy. On one of these occasions, an emotional Adrian said in his heart that he couldn’t get there. And I look and think, why do you need to make movements from top to bottom, but what if you turn the grinder over and start working from bottom to top. Adrian tells me in response that it’s impossible, the grinder will simply fly out of your hands. Let's try, I said. Believe it or not, in front of the “amazed public” I managed to carefully clean up a previously inaccessible area. Damn, “skill doesn’t drink away,” I even thought.

Of course, one cannot fail to mention another rather labor-intensive stage of work - cleaning the surface of the logs in the corners of the cuts with chisels. The photo below shows this operation close-up from different angles. In the photo is Adrian himself. His brother, Ivan, out of natural modesty, tried to avoid the lens, but I did not insist.

Labor-intensive work of manually cleaning the corners of cuts where the sanding disc cannot reach.

The same work in the corners of the cuts, but close-up.

On the right side of the photo above you can clearly see that the crowns were not completely sanded - the guys then processed the edges for window and door openings separately. This was due to the fact that most of the windows were covered with film at that time.

The next photo shows a close-up of a wall made of round logs. Traces from the discs are clearly visible. This is what the wall looked like after being covered with rough sandpaper with 40 grit.

Sanded wall - close-up. Disc marks are visible. This wall was polished twice, first with 40 grit and then with 80 grit. The photo shows the result of rough sanding.

As a result of the work done to polish the house, the living room simply “played.” To be honest, my wife and I do not regret the money spent on sanding, because it essentially replaces the traditionally expensive final finishing of the walls. Once one of our friends, having visited our house, asked, what will you use to line the walls from the inside? My wife and I looked at him like “Lenin looked at the bourgeoisie” and said, what are you talking about, for the sake of these wooden walls, everything, in fact, was started!

As a result of sanding, the house began to look “like new”

In conclusion of this article, even if we look ahead a little, we will show how the same room began to look, but already with painted walls and installed fireplace . The top decorative grille is still missing on the fireplace, so the air duct pipes are visible.

Photo of the living room after painting the walls with varnish water based and installation of a fireplace with soap chloride lining.

Don’t be surprised that the fireplace podium is raised above the floor - this is intended, since insulation will be laid on the subfloor made of DSP boards, and then the heated floor pipes will be laid in the screed. According to our plans, the level tiles should just reach the level of the fireplace podium.

To take a closer look at the walls, here is a photo of the chimney against the background of the wall of the attic floor. Overall we were pleased with the quality of sanding and painting.

Photo of the second floor wall, on the left - fireplace chimney (finishing artificial stone)

Sanding – compulsory work after the construction of the log house. Its main purpose is to level wood material, remove all roughness, mold, rot spots and other defects from it. This work must also be carried out before painting, varnishing or treating the wall with any other finishing materials.

A sanded wall ensures good adhesion of paint to the surface, and the result will look much more aesthetically pleasing. How to polish logs?

Selection of tools for processing logs

Choosing a tool for grinding a log frame is not difficult, since dozens of different brands of grinding machines from domestic and foreign manufacturers are on sale today. To completely sand a log house, you need to purchase the following set of equipment:

• If we are talking about a log house, the most convenient solution would be a belt sander. It will allow you to quickly process flat surfaces, modern models additionally equipped with a bag in which dust and flying small sawdust are collected. It is important that the machine is not overly heavy, otherwise it will be awkward to work with.
• If you have to process a log house, you will have to work with semicircular surfaces. The most convenient tool for this will be an angle grinder - an angle grinder, which is more commonly called an angle grinder. In this case, special attachments are put on it for polishing the log house - these are discs coated with sandpaper placed in the form of petals.

Enough power - 850 W, no stronger tools required. The device must be light and ergonomic, otherwise after several hours of work your hands will become very tired.

• You will also need high-grade sandpaper, and it is better to purchase a large amount. Any equipment will not help complete the job; many areas will have to be processed only by hand. These are end joints and various hard-to-reach places that a grinding machine cannot reach.

What is the best way to polish a log frame? When choosing a power tool, it is better to pay attention to the product widely famous brands: this is DeWalt, Bosch, a fairly reliable tool is offered by the domestic company Interskol.

You should not skimp when choosing, as a cheap Chinese grinding machine can simply fail after an hour of hard work. A properly selected tool will allow you to quickly get the job done, and there will be no problems or unexpected breakdowns.

Technology for polishing a log frame using a grinder

A grinder for polishing a log frame is the most handy tool, which has fairly high productivity, but all the work will take many hours. It is important to remember that sanded logs must be painted or otherwise treated as quickly as possible, otherwise the wood will quickly darken and the likelihood of fungus will increase.

Sanding begins only after the wood is completely dry. It is practically useless to sand a wet log, since you will not get a smooth surface.

How to grind a log frame with a grinder? To work, you need to prepare attachments with grains of different sizes in advance: during initial processing, the logs are sanded with sandpaper with coarse grains (40), later you can move on to finer grinding, choosing sandpaper with finer grains.

The abrasive material wears out very quickly and becomes clogged with dust, so it will have to be replaced periodically. Some important rules that will help you cope with grinding more effectively:

• Before starting work, you should take care of personal protective equipment: when processing wood, dust and small sawdust will fly in all directions, so you will need safety glasses and a respirator mask. Hands must be protected by a sleeve, and work gloves will also be required.
• If there is a lot of work ahead, it is better to divide it into several parts. Otherwise, the logs of the log house will have time to darken even before the work is completed, after which they will need to be sanded again. It is better to treat one area and then immediately cover the wood with a protective compound.

This is especially important if the work is not carried out professionally, as it will take more time, and it is worth taking care of the timely protection of the material.

• The work is carried out in several stages: initially, you need to treat the roughest places with a nozzle with coarse sandpaper: the remaining bark is removed, all irregularities are removed. After this, you can proceed to grouting with sandpaper, and the final part of the work is done manually.

Particular attention should be paid to the grooves. To grind them, you can use a special flat attachment on an angle grinder, but such work requires special skills, and it is better for beginners to do it manually.

If the work is being done for the first time, the master must handle the grinder very carefully. High rotation speed requires precise movements, otherwise the sanding will be uneven. If you press too hard on the wood, a noticeable depression will immediately appear in it.

Further processing of the log house

When choosing what to polish a log house with, you must immediately prepare the material for further processing of the logs. It includes the mandatory application of a layer of antiseptic - a substance that prevents putrefactive processes. The antiseptic can be a priming and tinting agent, and the wood can also be treated with bleaches to give it a pleasant tone.

Wood must also be treated with fire retardants - substances that prevent fire. For a house made of wood this is most important factor security.

A carefully polished and processed log house will look very beautiful, and thanks to special treatment it will be reliably protected from various adverse influences. Skillful handling of tools and compliance with safety precautions will allow you to quickly complete the job without force majeure, and the result will be quite worthy.

Sanding a log frame is a monotonous, dusty job that requires constant attention and the ability to deftly handle power tools. Entrust this work to us. The guys in the team are specialists, they know how to properly polish a log frame and will be able to please you with the quality.
We are engaged in polishing log houses in the Smolensk, Moscow regions, Leningrad regions.

For complex work (sanding, painting, caulking) and large volumes of work, we travel to other areas of the Central region.

Sanding cost 1 square meter log walls from 250 rubles

It is worth sanding the log house correctly and efficiently 250 rubles per square meter of treated surface. This is the price of grinding a LOBE to a height of 2 meters from the surface of the ground or floor. To sand a wall higher than two meters you need to install scaffolding or work from a ladder. Accordingly, the work will cost a little more. The cost of grinding a log house above two meters from the floor 300 rubles square meter.

The cost of grinding work in cramped conditions (niches, rooms less than 2 square meters) is negotiated on the spot.

The cost of grinding a log frame is indicated for one pass. Usually this is enough.

If anything needs to be further processed, we can always agree on the price of polishing.

Sanding a log house correctly

With the right approach to grinding a log house, one pass means grinding the log house using an angle grinder with an 80-grit attachment. This is quite enough for logs on the street side. Of course, if you look closely, you can see very small horizontal ridges from the passage of the sander, but they are removed in the second pass. The second pass is carried out with an eccentric machine on which a disc with 80 grit is installed.

If we agree on grinding your log house indoors, then it makes sense to start right away with an angle grinder (grinder) with an 80 disc to remove all the unevenness and give the log one tone. And remove the nuances with an orbital with a 120 disk, for painting or varnishing.

We polish:

• houses, bathhouses chopped by hand
• timber log houses
• log houses made of rounded logs
• walls covered with clapboard, blockhouse, imitation timber
• floors and ceilings
• We work: Moscow, Smolensk, St. Petersburg

Why sand the log house?

At its core" grinding of a log house", this is preparation wooden surface for coating. And what better preparation, the better your log house will be painted. Look, the difference is clearly visible in the photo. After the second pass. Can you imagine the beauty after coloring?

Take a closer look at the logs or beams from which your house is built. You will see remnants of bark, resin, small scuffs and fluff. If you don't sand the frame, these nuances will lead to:

1. paint or varnish will not lie smoothly and beautifully on the wood
   • under a layer of paint there will not be a surface with the same density; in some places the paint will be absorbed more strongly, in others less. When the coating dries, the heterogeneity will become clearly visible, you will begin to tint
2. paint consumption will increase by about 20%
   • all the fluff and burrs on the log will also need to be painted on both sides, and there are quite a few of them
3. the service life of the protective and decorative coating will be reduced by 50%
   • Due to the difference in the thickness of the coating, the sun, wind and frost will very quickly, literally next year, make gaps in the paint, the uncovered tree will begin to darken

Here are three main reasons why sanding is necessary.

But besides these frightening factors), there is also an aesthetic side. During sanding, the texture of the wood appears, all construction dirt is removed and the annual rings become clearly visible. The tree opens up and the wood fibers can be seen. Tinting impregnation or colorless varnish, applied after sanding, will highlight and emphasize all the true beauty of the wooden structure.

As a specialist, it seems obvious to me that it is better to invest money and sand the frame from the beginning than to regret painting the frame with an expensive compound, and the next year, observing the peeling facade, still have to sand it and paint it again. Miser pays twice).

We calculate the grinding area of ​​the log house

Let’s say you need to polish the frame of a house 6 by 8, 3 meters high. Add the length of all sides 6+6+8+8=28 and multiply by the height of 3 m. The result is 84 square meters. Taking into account the average roundness of the logs, we apply a coefficient of 1.2, i.e. 84 x 1.2 = 102 sq.m

Multiply the result obtained by the cost of polishing the log house - 250 rubles. The amount won't scare you.

The process of polishing a log frame is quite labor-intensive, but it can be done at home. In order to perform high-quality grinding, you must have special equipment, as well as initial skills in working with it. Grinding a log house yourself will help you save money while getting a high-quality result. We will learn further about how to properly sand a log frame made from rounded logs.

Sanding logs is not a mandatory process at all. However, after its implementation, the wooden surface acquires a more attractive appearance, it becomes resistant to external irritants.

Most often, sanding a bathhouse is necessary to get rid of the top, dark layer of wood. In addition, grinding can partially or completely remove the fungus. Further, by covering the wood with a special protective agent, it is possible to extend its service life for several more years.

In order for the grinding process to go quickly and efficiently, it is necessary to select the right equipment. Most often, for these purposes, a grinder is used, on which a special attachment is installed or grinding machine.

When choosing a grinding machine, pay attention to compact, small and lightweight models with a minimum set of functions. The device should also have a function for smoothly switching operating modes. It is more convenient to perform grinding using two grinding machines, one of which has a fine abrasive and the other a coarse one. However, it is quite possible to get the job done with just one device.

Choose plastic nozzles for abrasive elements, since rubber ones are left on a wooden surface dark spots. Please note that prolonged use of the tool and constant replacement of attachments leads to excessive heating. Therefore, if you work with only one grinding machine, then pause its operation. The initial grinding of the bath is performed using abrasive grit 40-60. With this abrasive it is possible to process about five meters of logs.

Please note that to polish the frame they coniferous trees, you will need to purchase more abrasive. Since these types of wood are different high content resins in their composition, this leads to premature damage to abrasive attachments.

Secondary processing of bathhouse logs is carried out using abrasives with a grain size of 110 units.

Please note that grinding of rounded logs is carried out exclusively using an eccentric sander. And with the help of a grinder you can sand the timber. However, keep in mind that the power of the grinder is quite high, and pressing too hard will damage the wooden surface.

Before sanding the frame, it is necessary to carry out a series of preparatory work. The work is carried out before installing windows, since this type of work is distinguished by highlighting large quantity dust and dirt. If the wood has a high moisture content, then you need to wait until it dries. Since sanding wet wood will be of poor quality. It is preferable to carry out the work after the roof has been installed.

Before starting work, inspect the surface of the frame for defects. If there are places where the surface of the wood has peeled off, then it must be lubricated with glue and wait until it dries.

How to properly sand a log house: instructions

Start sanding the frame from the bottom, gradually moving to the top. The grinding process involves performing the following actions:

1. Grinding using a grinder with a coarse-grained nozzle.

2. Processing the groove areas using a grinder, the size of the disc should be 1-2 cm larger size the instrument itself. If you select a large attachment, the tool may jam and cause injury.

3. The corner sections of the log house are processed with a chisel. This process is performed either at the beginning of work or after completion of the first grinding.

4. To grind the ends, use only coarse abrasive. To reduce lint on the ends, use a soldering iron or hammer.

5. Before further finishing, inspect the wood for gray spots. If they are present on the surface, apply bleach to them. Don't forget to remove dust using a vacuum cleaner and a damp cloth.

6. To avoid leaving deep marks on the surface of the wood, do not use the grinder or grinder at too high speeds.

• apply a layer of primer, use a brush or spray gun;
• in order to emphasize the structure of the wood, bleach and paint the surface;
• Apply a layer of protective impregnation.

How to polish a log house with your own hands: internal sanding

When performing internal grinding of a log house, there are several options for performing this process. If previously the bathhouse could be sanded, then to update its top layer, it is enough to use a coarse abrasive.

If there are no plans to further cover the walls, then the sanding process must be high-quality and long-lasting. It is preferable to carry out initial sanding before installing finished floors and ceilings. The work process is as follows:

• removing the rough layer of wood bark, using a grinder or grinder for this;
• using a grinder, process the groove and corner areas;
• sand the wood using fine abrasive materials;
• To sand the joints of logs and the most inaccessible places, use hand tools; this process is labor-intensive and requires high labor costs.

After finishing sanding one wall, remove dust from its surface and apply protective composition antiseptic action. This process is repeated each time after sanding.

When applying antiseptic to the wall, make sure that there are no caulking on it. Use sealant to remove them. For execution finishing, follow these steps:

1. Apply a protective layer of antiseptic. With its help, it will be possible to prevent the development of mold and mildew on the walls.

2. After the antiseptic has dried, treat the walls with a glaze solution. This will improve the aesthetic appeal of the room.

3. Treat the end areas using an acrylic composition with moisture-resistant characteristics. After it has completely dried, apply another layer of solution.

4. In order to improve the fire resistance of wood, apply a fire retardant compound to it.

How to quickly polish a log house: abrasive blasting

Another fairly simple option for grinding is the use of abrasive blasting technology. To perform grinding, you will need a special apparatus that releases sand under pressure. It, in turn, cleans the wood from dirt and mold. This method of wood processing is non-contact. However, the wood, after processing, is particularly smooth and has excellent texture.

The process of performing such grinding is easy and quick, and the quality is impeccable. Using sandblasting, it is possible to create a certain natural texture on wood. Appearance wood, after processing, is distinguished by exclusivity and high cost.

Advantages of using the sandblasting method:

• sanding of wood of different structure and type;
• sanding wood with any contaminants;
• the ability to highlight the fabulous texture of wood;
• high speed;
• performing grinding in the most inaccessible places;
• the lifespan of the tree increases due to the fact that its top layer is compacted;
• ease of doing the job.

This grinding method is characterized by high speed. There are no scratches or chips on the surface of the wood, and there is excellent wood texture. In addition, it is possible to get rid of lint and additional elements, deteriorating the quality of wood. There is no need to sand the surface after sandblasting. This process is quite easy to perform even for a beginner. The only thing that is required is the availability of special equipment and sand for work.

Therefore, when answering the question of how to polish log logs, first of all pay attention to this processing method.

If you do not have the time and energy to perform grinding, we recommend entrusting this process to professionals. When answering the question of how much it costs to sand a log house, it is necessary to take into account many factors, such as the quality of the wood, the size of the log house, the complexity of the work, etc.

The average cost of sanding one square meter of a log house is about 450 rubles. This process is quite expensive, however, in this way you will save time and get high-quality results from professionals.

When choosing a tool for DIY wood processing, pay attention to sanding machines that have a dust collection bag. This way, the job will be easier and there will be no need for cleanup after it's done.

Belt sanders will not be able to process semicircular logs; special equipment will be required for these purposes. It is possible to use a grinder, but it must be equipped with an attachment with special petals that will help grind hard-to-reach places. Optimal value The power of the grinder is up to 1 kW. The use of more powerful equipment may lead to severe pain in your hands on the second day due to the heaviness of the instrument.

If you want to get perfect smooth surface, then sand the frame only after it has completely dried. Otherwise, there will be worn fragments on the wood.

There are four main methods of processing wood with a sander and abrasives:

• roughing method - involves peeling off the bark;
• average processing option - on at this stage small irregularities are removed from the tree;
• fine processing option involves final grinding;
• sanding wood before painting.

Please note that the abrasive wears out very quickly, and when doing the work yourself, you will have to change attachments very often. To clean the nozzle from resin and dust, use a brush and thinner in the form of white spirit. However, in this case, to achieve high performance work is more difficult to achieve.

The speed of work is determined by factors such as previous sanding experience, equipment power, quality of attachments, and the amount of resin in the wood. Average duration Grinding one linear meter takes about two minutes, with a log height of 300 mm.

Before you start sanding, wear a respirator, safety glasses and gloves. Since the work process produces dust, which should not get into the eyes or respiratory tract.

Immediately after polishing the log house, it is coated with special compounds. If there is mold or mildew on the logs, special bleaches are used to remove them. Next, you should protect the tree with antiseptic glazing compounds.

To apply the composition, use a brush, or even better, a sprayer. This will ensure that the surface is evenly covered. After applying paint or varnish to the surface of the wood, lint begins to rise; to remove it, sand the surface again.

External sanding of a log house helps restore the wood to its natural shade, which is lost under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. If you do not polish the log house before applying antiseptics to its surface, you will not be able to achieve optimal effectiveness of their effects.

Sanding a log house allows you to get rid of the top layer of mold and mildew that appears from excessive moisture. In addition, with the help of grinding it is possible to remove all unevenness and dirt from the walls. At the same time, they acquire a pleasant color, excellent texture and smooth surface. Sanding walls significantly increases the lifespan of wood. In addition, by performing sanding it is possible to restore wood that has previously lost its color.

Sanding a log house video:

Wooden buildings have undeniable advantages. Wood absorbs moisture or dries out, regulating the level of humidity in rooms. The tree breathes, which is why it happens natural ventilation, Wood retains heat and is an excellent sound insulator. But if you don’t take care of the log house and don’t help it, it may lose some useful features.

Why is it necessary to sand a log frame?

Experts insist on grinding. But not everyone listens to such recommendations, believing that the procedure is only needed to improve the appearance of the building. But in vain.

Grinding of the log house is carried out after completion of construction, or after the final shrinkage of the house. The procedure is labor-intensive and requires good physical fitness. It is immediately worth emphasizing the need to use protective equipment; dust and wood particles can damage the skin, eyes, and respiratory tract.

Be sure to wear personal protective equipment when sanding. These are wide glasses with tight-fitting sides, a respirator, headphones and gloves.

The purpose of sanding is to remove the top darkened layer of wood, remove irregularities, and smooth out imperfections. The appearance of the structure is noticeably improved, the natural golden color with a natural pattern is restored, technological traces of processing from crooked cuts and plane marks are removed. Logs or beams are given a beautiful geometric shape, round or otherwise.

The wood gets rid of harmful microflora; the treatment will eliminate mold and fungal formations in the future. The bast layer that has lost its quality is removed by 2-3 cm, the bark is removed, and places where bacteria can multiply and rot can form are cleaned.

Important! The main purpose of sanding is to prepare for the application of the final protective coating. Leveled walls take less paint and varnish materials, surface adhesion improves, wood absorbs impregnation better.

Treatment with fire retardants and antiseptics protects wood from negative effects environment, improves its properties. Sanded logs with protective coating– a guarantee of durability, strength, and high performance characteristics of the structure.

A rounded log sometimes has polished areas that appear due to violations of processing technologies; these places repel impregnation and quickly deteriorate, which can lead to contamination of neighboring logs with putrefactive formations. Careful sanding eliminates this problem.

What tools are best to equip yourself for polishing a log house?

Today it is not difficult to acquire the necessary tools for carrying out the procedure. You should arm yourself with:

• grinding machine;
• cutting machine;
• chisel.

Modern technology certainly makes the task easier. You need to learn how to use a grinder by adjusting the pressure. Excessive efforts can lead to defects; you cannot make mistakes so as not to spoil the appearance of the building. The corners and inter-crown depressions are ground with a grinder; the recesses are processed manually with a chisel. It is better to use a chisel 20cm wide.

Important! When choosing tools, you should pay attention to weight, so as not to put too much strain on your hands and power. Tools with low power will heat up, significantly reducing productivity. Quality tool release Makita, Bosh, DeWalt, and the domestic Interskol is also worthy of attention. The equipment is high quality and durable.

For a timber frame you need a belt sander; its use will ensure a smooth surface. Equipped with a special dust collection bag, the machine will make subsequent cleaning of the room easier. I'll round the surface of the logs with a belt machine, it's difficult, a grinder and special attachments will come in handy here. The right power cutting machine 600-900 W. Nozzles with different degrees of grain. Initially, use a coarse-grained nozzle (40), then take a nozzle 80-100. Disc 125mm, speed 10-12 thousand, preference should be given to a machine with a rear air intake and a long cord that provides freedom of action.

Important! For work, it is more convenient to use two machines, so as not to overheat and not change attachments; first work with the attachment with large grains, then with fine ones. Using plastic attachments; flexible plastic with an abrasive layer is more convenient, leaves no marks and lasts longer.

Grinding process technology

The grinding technological cycle consists of three stages:

1. draft;
2. main;
3. finishing

Rough work is stripping the surface, the main stage is to smooth out irregularities, finishing Treatment with special substances that support the health of wood is mandatory.

The grinding process requires time and skill. In 2-3 minutes you can process 30cm of timber. Forced use greatly slows down the process hand tools in places where the machine cannot reach. The processing speed largely depends on the complexity of the architecture and the resin content of the tree. Frequent replacement of nozzles is required; they become clogged; they should be cleaned with white spirit and a wire brush.

Larger surfaces are best divided into sections; each section should be sanded in three stages with final treatment with impregnating compounds. If you do not saturate the area immediately, it will quickly darken and the work will have to be done again.

Sanding rounded logs

An eccentric grinder will help make the surface smooth and even; working with an angle grinder requires certain skills, without which you can make grooves and depressions. The disc locking option in an eccentric machine will eliminate such misunderstandings. It is necessary to use discs with abrasive 30-60 for primary processing and 100-120 for finishing. The required power of the machine is 200-300 W.

Grinding of corners and inter-crown joints

The grooves and corners are polished with a cutting machine. You need to take a nozzle smaller than the disk size. The grooves are ground with a chisel. Some people advise starting with the corners, others think that they should end with them. There is no fundamental difference. Important immediately after final grinding treat the surface with protective compounds.

End grinding

To process the end of a log, you will need a grinder with 40 abrasive. There is no need for finishing sanding; it is impossible to achieve perfect smoothness. But enhanced treatment with primers and other compounds is required. The ends of logs are especially susceptible to getting wet.

Sanding inside the house is no different. If additional wall finishing is not planned, processing should be carried out with the greatest care.

Processing glued or profiled timber is easier, the surface is smooth, it is enough to remove the top layer that has changed color. Factory-made timber is usually treated with fire retardants and antiseptics. This treatment will last for a year or two. However, then you will have to work hard to return the timber to its original qualities.

Proper processing of timber after grinding

Proper wood processing increases the durability of the structure, eliminates wood damage, and reduces the costs of subsequent maintenance and repairs. It is better not to save on purchasing funds. High-quality compounds purchased from reputable stores guarantee reliable protection of wood from natural aggressions, rot, fungus and mold. When purchasing protective mixtures, you should pay attention to the warranty period.

Impregnation is applied manually, with a brush or spray. To improve aesthetic qualities, many use impregnations with coloring pigments. For correct processing required:

• antiseptics;
• flame retardants;
• glazing compounds.

Antiseptics block mold and rot, fire retardants increase resistance to fire, glazing compounds make the surface more beautiful.

Important! It is preferable to purchase Valtti Pohjuste antiseptic from Tikkurila, Neomid 440, Neomid Bio Color. Antiseptic Valtti Color favorably emphasizes the wood texture. The products are not cheap, but worth the money spent.

Consumption of the composition is approximately 1 liter per 1 m² of sanded surface. White spirit is used to wash hands and arms.

Grinding important stage in the construction of a log house. You can do it yourself, or you can invite specialists. The cost of work is 300-400 rubles per 1 m². Sanding a large house is a costly undertaking, there are no major difficulties in the work, the choice is yours.