Hi all. Nylon Drumsticks I bought it out of pure curiosity, what it is and what they are eaten with. Briefly: they correspond to size 5A, are slightly longer, but heavier than oak sticks; when playing, they bend and spring unpleasantly. Compared with wooden chopsticks the drums sound much quieter and muffled, but the cymbals sound even louder due to the greater weight of the nylon sticks. After each hit on the cymbal, decent dents remain on the sticks. Hardly suitable for anything other than training your hands on a drum pad
What are drumsticks made from? On sale there are both classic ones - wooden, and with nylon tips, and carbon, and hybrid, with replaceable shoulders and heads (Ahead). But somehow I haven’t come across nylon ones, so I became curious what kind of sticks they were and how they behave.
I ordered the cheapest option, which I found on Aliexpress, since I didn’t notice any visual difference with the more expensive ones. It took about a month for the package to reach me, without a tracking number, in a simple package, for which you don’t even need to sign for it at the post office. The packaging was simple, a bag and a couple of turns of bubble wrap.
This is what these sticks look like:
Comparison with Vic Firth 5A maple sticks. As you can see, the nylon sticks are slightly longer, although they are very similar in shoulder shape.
The head of the sticks is pointed, I would say, too pointed:
The handles of the sticks are corrugated, apparently so that they do not slip out of the hands. But for me it would be better if they were smooth; with such a surface you can rip the skin off your hands. If the wooden sticks are too smooth, I usually lightly sand them where the fine sander grips. sandpaper, and they no longer slide. They clearly overdid it with the corrugation.
Now about the sensations when playing with these sticks, and about the sound. The weight of the sticks is noticeably heavier than wooden ones, even oak ones of the same size 5A. The effect of “heaviness” when playing is also intensified, since the sticks are more elastic than wooden ones, they bend noticeably when swinging and spring back upon impact, even perhaps stronger than bamboo sticks, such as those in the review, and these are the most flexible sticks I’ve ever encountered.
The sound of hitting drums, compared to wooden sticks, is much quieter and muffled, apparently precisely because of their elasticity. But the sound of hitting the cymbals is even louder than that of wooden sticks, as I understand it, due to the greater weight of nylon ones. Therefore, when playing them, what strikes the eye, or rather, the ear, is the discrepancy between the volume of the drums and cymbals: the drums are too quiet, the cymbals are too loud. That is, you can’t play it quietly, like roots, or you need to additionally jam the cymbals. Maybe these sticks are indispensable in some exotic style, where the cymbals must be much louder than the drums, but I don’t know of one.
Here is a short video showing the difference in sound between wooden and nylon drumsticks. Unfortunately, it was done very spontaneously, without preparation, I did not think in advance what exactly to play so that the difference in the sound of the sticks would be most noticeable. Therefore, the demo video turned out shorter than planned, but I don’t have the opportunity to shoot a second take in the near future.
In the video, I didn’t knock powerfully, to put it mildly, since the installation is in a residential building, and I generally try not to play with sticks at home. With more dynamic playing, the drums would sound deeper and fuller, the snare would have less string crackle and more of a tom sound. But I think that the difference between the sound of wooden and nylon sticks can be understood, although in the recording the difference is less pronounced. The sound was recorded using a Zoom H4n recorder located on a tripod near the drummer's head.
As I said, I don't see any use for these sticks in drumming, primarily due to the discrepancy between the volume of the cymbals and the drums. You can get used to the elasticity of these sticks, but artificially forcing the feed in the drums and holding back when playing cymbals is too much. This is, of course, possible, but why?
The following photos show the dents that formed on the shoulders of the sticks after, one might say, ten seconds of playing while recording a video.
Even the most low-quality wooden sticks become covered with similar dents during much more dynamic playing. But with nylon ones, I just gently stroked the plates, and as a result, such dents. What would happen to them after an hour of playing in a heavy style, I’m afraid to even imagine; most likely they simply won’t last that hour. I don’t want to do such an experiment, because I’m thinking of trying to use these sticks to train my hands on a pad; they seem suitable for this.
To be honest, I’m a little sorry for the money spent on these sticks, since most likely I won’t find any use for them. I also regret that I didn’t buy sticks, for example, yellow or Green colour, that would be funny. It wouldn't change the essence, but they would be a little prettier.
Thank you for your attention.
I'm planning to buy +2 Add to favorites I liked the review +24 +36Structure of a drumstick
Komel– area of balance of the stick.
Body– the largest part of the stick, serving as a gripping point and the striking part for rimshot strikes
Shoulder- An area of the stick often used to strike a crash. Alternating blows with the tip of the stick and the shoulder on the hi-hat creates the basis of the rhythm. The length and thickness of the taper affects the flexibility, feel and sound of the stick. Sticks with a short, thick taper feel more rigid, provide greater durability, and produce a stronger sound than sticks with a long, narrow taper, which tend to be more fragile and flexible but sound more delicate.
Neck plays the role of transition of the stick from the shoulder to the tip and allows you to identify the point of the beginning of the tip and the end of the shoulder of the stick. Thus, it serves as a connecting link between the tip and the shoulder. The shape of the neck is determined by the shape of the shoulder and tip.
Tips there are drum sticks various shapes and sizes. The intensity, volume and duration of the sound produced depends on the size of the head. There are so many shapes of tips that sometimes accurately grouping sticks by type of tip is far from an easy task. In addition to variations in shape, tips can vary in length, size, processing, and material.
There are 8 main types of tips:
Pointed tip(pointed or triangle-tipped)
Style, area of application: jazz, funk, fusion, blues, groove, swing, etc.
It has a larger contact area with the plastic than a round one, which spares the plastic and, as it were, “dulls” errors in sound production. Creates a medium-filled sound with a wider focus. Produces a less bright and accentuated cymbal sound compared to a round tip. Recommended for beginner drummers.
Round tip(ball tip)
Style, area of application: Perfect for studio work, playing in a symphony orchestra, as well as for playing light jazz, both with a symmetrical and traditional grip of the sticks.
Focuses the sound (which is clearly audible when playing cymbals) and significantly reduces the change in sound when struck at different angles of the stick. Suitable for bright playing and clear sound production. The small round tip produces a highly focused sound and is especially gentle on cymbals. Sticks with a larger rounded part of such a tip produce a fuller sound. This tip does not tolerate errors in sound production and is suitable for use by drummers with a correctly placed blow.
Barrel tip(barrel tip)
Style, area of application: light rock, jazz, funk, fusion, blues, groove, etc.
It has a larger contact area with the plastic than a round one, which spares the plastic and, as it were, “dulls” errors in sound production. Creates a medium-filled sound with a wider focus. Produces a less bright and accentuated cymbal sound compared to a round tip. Recommended for beginner drummers.
Tip cylindrical (cylindrical tip)
Style, area of application: an excellent choice for drummers playing different styles - from rock and metal to jazz and pop music. Often used for such styles as: rock, rock’n’roll, hard rock smooth jazz, swing, ambient, easy listening, etc.
First of all, it is designed for powerful, rhythmic and loud playing. Due to the large area of contact with the plastic, they produce a dull, muffled, open, diffuse, not sharp sound. Also suitable for soft, quiet play. Produces a dull medium sound attack.
Olive tip(olive-shaped tip)
Style, area of application: trash metal, gothik metal, hard metal, rock, jazz, fusion, swing, etc. with a lot of down-beats on the cymbals.
Thanks to its rounded shape, it performs well when playing quickly in the speed metal style. This tip is recommended for teaching primary hand positioning. Excellent for alternating fast up-down and slow playing, using concentrated (directed) hits on both cymbals and drums for a soft, focused sound production. Thanks to the “convexity,” it allows you to control the sound and area of contact with the surface of the instruments in a very wide range, depending on the angle of inclination of the stick to the surface of the instrument. This tip produces a full low sound and spreads the energy over a wider area (compared to a round or triangle tip), thus increasing the life of heads. A good choice for those who play hard. When playing cymbals it gives a surround sound.
Oval tips(oval tip)
Style, scope: rock, metal, pops, marching music, etc.
Suitable for loud, heavily accented playing with a powerful sound attack. Recommended for marching drums and for performances on large stages and stadiums.
Drop tips(teardrop tip)
Style, area of application: swing, jazz, blues, fusion, etc. Often the choice of jazz drummers. Light and fast sticks with this tip are an ideal choice for playing in orchestras and jazz ensembles.
Produces a full, high-pitched sound that spreads energy over a narrower area; Produces a rich cymbal sound and a focused sound attack. Recommended for dull-sounding accents when played at slow to medium tempos. It has a good rebound and is designed for clear and sharp strikes. Perfect for soft, accentuated sound production, especially with symmetrical grip. Ideal for emphasizing the ride with up-down strokes, for example, when maintaining a swing rhythm with the head of a stick. Also recommended for performing heavy speed-metal and especially for training exercises.
Acorn shaped tips(acorn tip)
Style, area of application: rock, metal, pops, funk, swing, jungle, blues, etc.
Produces a fairly bright, powerful sound with low attack. Shows a good degree of clarity and articulation when hitting the ride. Good for sudden transitions from powerful loud playing to quiet rhythmic pulsation. Good when playing with traditional and symmetrical grips.
Stick selection:
The choice of sticks depends on what kind of music you will play. But the choice of material, size, shape and tip is mostly a matter of personal preference.
The stick should feel comfortable in your hand and be suitable for producing the sound you want to achieve. For example, 7A sticks may be good for a small venue concert, but completely unsuitable for a street drum band.
Choose sticks that are comfortable in your hands and suit your playing style. Feel the sticks. Hold them in your hands.
The size of the stick should match your hand, both in diameter and length (often the length of a suitable stick is determined by the distance from the inside of the elbow to the tip of the ring finger). If the sticks “sit” comfortably in the palm of your hand, then you will be able to extract exactly the sound you want from the drum.
Try a few different wand models to compare before you decide to buy a specific one. When you have already accumulated enough experience, you will probably choose for yourself a certain brand and the ideal model that best suits you.
Factors needed when choosing sticks:
Wood species. From the right choice The wood will affect the sound and durability of the sticks. The texture of the wood should not be clearly expressed, otherwise such sticks will quickly break.
Wood structure(dense, soft); The wear of the sticks depends on it.
Wood hardness- resistance of wood to change in shape (deformation) or destruction in surface layer under force influences. Hardwood gives a brighter tone, more attack and spread, which many people like.
Density- the ratio of the mass of wood (the amount of wood substance) to its volume. Density is the most important indicator of strength: the heavier the tree, the greater the density and strength it has.
No two trees are the same, hence the density of a tree varies from log to log and even within a log itself. This explains why some poles feel solid and powerful while others feel hollow, even though they are the same brand and model. The density of wood also depends on its moisture content.
Treatment. By finishing there are sticks:
Polished, without any covering. During the grinding process, significant irregularities are removed from the surface of the sticks with abrasive materials, usually sandpaper. At the same time, the natural roughness of the wood texture is preserved, which contributes to better adhesion between the hand and the stick, as well as the absorption of excess moisture. But at the same time, such sticks are more susceptible to destruction, unlike varnished ones.
Varnished. Transparent varnish coatings protect wood from moisture and dust, give the surface a beautiful, intense, even shine and contrast to the texture. Coating the sticks with varnish makes their surface more durable. Lacquered sticks look a little worse than polished ones.
Polished. Upper class finishing of sticks is polishing - leveling the layers of varnish previously applied to the surface and giving the wood a clearly visible texture. When polishing, the surface of the sticks becomes durable, mirror-smooth and shiny by applying the thinnest layers of polish - an alcohol solution of plant-based resin.
Some drummers don't like varnished or polished sticks because they can slip out of sweaty hands when playing.
Wood moisture content- percentage of moisture in wood.
As a rule, a freshly felled tree contains up to 50% - 60% moisture, then it dries out by itself by 12 - 16%, after which the moisture content of the wood is stabilized once and for all. That is why it is extremely important, before the wood is put into processing, to subject it to artificial drying to the optimal moisture level. Typically, wood for the production of sticks is dried within the range of 6 - 14% humidity. On average, the entire drying process takes two weeks. But the exact holding and drying time is not prescribed anywhere, and this is the secret of each manufacturer, who himself determines what degree of wood moisture he needs in order to process it on machines and obtain the desired quality of sticks.
At the exit from production, sticks require low humidity, since wood “breathes”, and the amount of moisture in it will constantly change depending on air humidity environment. Thus, the sticks will shrink and swell with changes in climate and humidity, but to what extent depends on how the wood was dried before they were produced. Poorly dried wood before processing will subsequently peel, warp, shrink, dry out, crack, bend and deform.
Stick length. Longer sticks have more leverage and the benefit of better reach to the reels, but are more difficult to control. If you want more power with the same diameter, choosing a longer pole is a good solution.
Diameter. A larger diameter has more mass, which develops greater sound projection and volume.
Stick weight. Weight affects the sound, force, and your ability to control the sticks. In general, heavy sticks sound thicker and louder. If the sticks are lighter, then they produce a “thin” and soft sound.
Heavier poles have more inertia, so their trajectories are more consistent and they are more forgiving of most mistakes, making them easier to control for beginners. In addition, playing with heavier sticks develops the drummer's endurance regardless of his natural abilities. So it's a good idea to have additionally heavier sticks in your arsenal to expand your sonic capabilities. You will notice that when you switch to lighter poles, they become more difficult to control.
Flatness- an important indicator that contributes to a uniform feeling of balance of the sticks. In the initial stages of stick production, the most important thing is to control the drying process of the blanks. But since wood is a living, “breathing” material that absorbs moisture, the shape and size of the sticks will always depend on external conditions. Therefore, two sticks will never be perfectly aligned.
Recoil absorption depends on the shape of the stick and the type of wood. The more a drumstick absorbs recoil, the less stress there is in the hand and joints, which means it's easier to play. The feeling of “balance” (center of gravity) and comfortable grip depends on the type of wood, its dryness, the shape of the stick and the structure of the drummer’s hand.
Marking
Traditional model numbering such as 3S, 2B, 5B, 5A, and 7A were the very first generally accepted drumstick numberings, with a number and letter designating the size of the stick and its purpose. The exact specifications of each model varied slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer, especially at the point of the wand's taper and tip.
Number figuratively denotes the diameter (more precisely the thickness) of a stick. Basically, a lower number means larger diameter, and a larger number means a smaller diameter. For example, a 7A stick is smaller in diameter than a 5A, which in turn is thinner than a 2B. The only exception is 3S, which is larger in diameter than 2B, despite the number.
Letter designations“S”, “B” and “A” used to indicate the scope of application of a particular model, but today they have almost completely lost their meaning.
« S" meant "Street". Initially, this model of sticks was intended for use outdoors: for playing in marching bands or drum bands, where high power of blows and loudness of performance are expected; Accordingly, the sticks of this group are the largest in size.
« B" - meant "Band". Initially intended for use in brass and symphony orchestras. Have larger size shoulder and head (for louder playing) than Model A. Typically used in heavy, noise music. They are easier to control and are recommended for beginning drummers. The Model 2B is especially recommended by drum teachers as the ideal starter stick.
« A" comes from the word "Orchestra". From the perspective of a legendary drummer and drum maker musical instruments William Ludwig, instead of the letter “O”, the letter “A” was used, which, in his opinion, looked better than “O” when printed. The "A" models were originally intended for big bands; bands playing dance music.
Typically, these sticks are thinner than "B" models, have thinner necks and smaller heads, which makes it possible to produce a quiet and soft sound. Typically, sticks of this model are used in light music, for example, jazz, blues, pops, etc.
"A" models are the most popular among drummers.
« N" stands for "Nylon" and is a relatively new designation. It is added at the end of the marking (for example, “5A N”) and indicates that the stick has a nylon tip.
Drumstick material
All indicators of the physical and mechanical properties of wood are determined at a humidity of 12%.
American Walnut (Hickory) - perfect tree for drumsticks. Durable, hard, absorbs impact well, effectively dampens vibrations transmitted to the hands from impacts. It has average weight, little subject to bending.
Density 815 kg/cub.m,
Janka hardness - 1820
Beech European(European Beech) has a straight grain wood structure and is flexible. The hardness and density of wood varies depending on where the trees grow. Beech wood is similar to oak in its basic mechanical properties. After drying, most of the wood's characteristics improve, and beech becomes stronger than oak in bending, surpassing it in rigidity and shear resistance by about a quarter and even more significantly in strength under impact loads.
Beech reacts quickly and strongly to changes in humidity, which is why it can be called “capricious” or “sensitive.”
Density from 660 to 700 kg/cub.m
Janka hardness - 1300
Maple- the lightest and most flexible tree with a soft structure. Although maple is not as hard and durable as American walnut or oak, it is an ideal choice if you prefer a light feel and quick response. Maple sticks are considered “obedient sticks” with excellent recoil absorption, are flexible and have good bounce, and are used primarily for quiet or fast playing to obtain a light “airy” sound - especially when playing cymbals.
Maple density 620 - 675 kg/cub.m
Janka hardness - 1450
Oak- a very durable tree, weighs more than maple and walnut, and has much greater strength. Oak sticks are the heaviest, densest, most durable and have a noticeable impact. Oak is not often used for making sticks. Very moisture resistant wood.
Density from 675 to 970 kg/cub.m
Janka hardness – 1360
Hornbeam It has a medium-density structure, good recoil absorption (average between walnut and maple), and fairly high wear resistance. The weight of the wood ranges from very light to medium heavy. The flexibility of hornbeam is somewhat worse than that of beech and oak. Sticks made from it are resistant to shock loads. Like beech, it is afraid of moisture.
Density - 750 kg/cub.m
Hardness on the Janka scale – 1860
Pao Rosa (Rosewood)- a very durable, hard, but quite fragile tree. It is preferred for its excellent tone and feel, but is not suitable for cymbal playing.
Density from 709 to 780 kg/cub.m
Hardness on the Janka scale – 2720
In addition to wood, sticks are made of polyurethane, carbon fiber (Carbon) or aluminum. All these sticks are characterized by increased durability.
don't wet your ear and that's it)
rather, it’s very unpleasant... Then you have to go to the procedures for another 2 weeks...
Drums!
I want to learn how to play them^^
and how the earth bears such people...
A&T Trade take a look. perhaps they are waiting for you there.
Crew
Gangster Hunters
Danzel Washington is filming, good movie
The situation is classic - car wash, handbrake, frost (-10)... Bang, surprise. The right rear one was torn off quite quickly, but there was a problem with the left one.. I skidded along the asphalt for 150-200 meters, it was useless. I tried to swing it tight, nothing helps, it stands as if dead! I re-read a bunch of information - methods of unlocking on the spot (excluding a tow truck and a wonderful transfer to a warm place) in general 4;
- Boiling water on the drum (from 200 g to 5 l)
- Remove the wheel - tap with a hammer
- Without removing the wheel, tap on the mounting bolts
- Hairdryer, fan heater
Considering that I was standing on the road, a hairdryer was out of the question, I didn’t want to use water and a sledgehammer... and special respect to AndCam from Surgut! vacuum cleaner hose! Those one end into the exhaust pipe, the other onto the drum! To be honest, I didn’t believe that it could help, BUT after 15 minutes of blowing exhaust gases onto Idling, without any fuss, everything unlocked perfectly!
The ABS sensor, which naturally caught fire, went out after 200 meters, then dried it out by braking, everything is fine!
I recommend to all! Fast, convenient, stress-free and clean hands!
Good luck on the roads!
If you have such suspicions, go immediately to the hospital, overnight. Doctors will be able to tell you more precisely!
kneecap (patella), navel (umbiliculus), collarbone (clavicula), lower jaw (mandibula), fossa canina
Exclusive items always evoke the admiration of others and the pride of the owner. If you are playing on drum kit, self-made drums sticks will become your unique highlight.
Instructions
- Go to any music store and look at the models of drumsticks they sell. Pay attention to the markings. The numerical designation indicates the thickness sticks, and the letter one - about its purpose. If you are a beginner drummer, ask the dealer for a stick marked 2B and note its diameter and weight. Models with this marking are intended for playing in brass and symphony orchestras. They are very convenient and popular among beginning drummers developing their technique and production.
- Buy from the construction market wooden block. In principle, American walnut, maple or oak will do, but it’s better to buy a block of maple. This wood is light and sticks These are ideal for fast and quiet playing. When you become a superstar or a professional drumstick maker, make sticks from exotic woods such as bubinga or rosewood.
- Remember the 2B model you were looking at in the music store and cut out sticks approximately the same length and thickness. To do this, make the bottom sticks thickened - it will be a counterweight to the end sticks with head. Opposite thin end sticks, which is used to strike the drum, is called a "shoulder". The length and shape of this section affect the sound. Cut the stick so that it gradually becomes thinner towards the head. Then its sound will be more refined.
- head sticks make it Pointed or triangle-tipped. This is the most popular option and guarantees mid-focused sound.
- Process the cut out sticks sanding paper to remove roughness and protect your hands from possible splinters.
- If you want to hold more confidently and firmly sticks, buy special anti-slip tapes and wrap them around the bases of the sticks.
- Always have several pairs of drumsticks with you. Companies that produce drumsticks also produce convenient containers for storing them. Put a few of these in your bag to keep your chopsticks within arm's reach at all times.
- If you're wondering how jazz drummers get that squeaky sound on their snare drum, you might want to invest in a pair of snare brushes. Brushes have retractable thin metal rods that are primarily used to provide a quiet background beat, thus making the sound completely different from hitting with sticks.
- When playing an acoustic concert, you can use ruts, which are made from hewn birch or bamboo chips. Compared to brushes, they sound more muffled. Although the roots come in different thicknesses, do not hit them too hard, otherwise pieces may break off and become unplayable.
- Try different innovations from time to time. For example, the manufacturer Zildjian produces rubber training pads.
- Wear earplugs when playing the drums. The source of the loud sound (i.e. the drums) is quite close to your ears. You want to listen to music and have conversations when you're 80, right? Many drummers notice hearing loss by the age of 50, and only then begin to use earplugs. Don't let this happen to you.
- Chances are that you will have to try a lot of sticks. If you don't know which ones you want, try several options. Ultimately you will settle on what is right for you.
- If you play metal, 5B sticks will suit you.
- You can also start with fairly thick sticks of 2A or larger format to train your wrist, and then switch to sticks easier. And, ultimately, stop playing with heavy sticks altogether.
- If you want to achieve an epic, orchestral sound, wrap the ends of the sticks with duct tape. This will give the cymbals a less harsh sound and will also help create a crescendo effect. The more ribbon you wrap around the sticks, the stronger the effect.
- you can use different kinds sticks for different styles games.
- Be careful, playing heavy music can cause blisters and calluses. Buy from your chosen manufacturer special tapes, which will reduce vibration - this will reduce the number of possible injuries.
- If you are going to play in a group or already play, ask the leader of the group for advice on which sticks you should choose.
- If you know exactly what sticks you want, buy the big pack at once, they will really pay for themselves.
- Don't limit yourself to playing with just wooden sticks. If your sticks break frequently, try graphite sticks, but they will sound different.
