Modern suburban or country houses rarely build one-story, mostly two-story, three-story or one-story with attic floor buildings. In this case, there is always a need to somehow make high-quality movement between floors possible. good decision there will be the manufacture of wooden stairs that could provide a comfortable entry and carrying of heavy furniture or equipment. Let's just say that this is not an easy task. And if it is possible to order at least a project or even finished items stairs from the manufacturer, it is better to do so. Well, if you are confident in your abilities, have carpentry skills and free time, you can try to make a staircase yourself. Within the framework of this article, we will briefly talk about what design stairs are, how to perform the calculation and how to make a staircase.
- Elements of wooden stairs
- Calculation of a wooden staircase
- Ladder length
- Stringer length
Construction of a wooden staircase
It is necessary to choose the design of the stairs based on the space that can be used, the convenience of location, configuration and lifting, as well as for aesthetic reasons.
Conditionally everything wooden stairs can be divided into screw and marching.
Spiral stairs are used quite rarely. Mostly in extremely tight spaces. The second reason may be the desire of the owner - for aesthetic reasons. It is worth noting that the spiral staircases are not very functional. For example, it is extremely difficult to bring heavy furniture along it. In other words, it can serve only for the descent - the ascent of one person. For its manufacture, complex calculations will be required, since it will rely on one pillar - a support. The slightest mistake in the calculation of strength can lead to sad consequences.
Marching stairs- the most common. They consist of their marches, they are also called "flight of stairs", i.e. directly the steps and platforms that separate the marches. Marches can be either one or several. And there may be no platforms at all if the stairs are single-flight.
Marching stairs may have different design You can see them in detail in the diagram below.
There are straight marching stairs. At the same time, they can be single-march and two-march, separated by a platform for ease of movement. Such stairs can be located against the wall or not lean against the wall at all. characteristic feature straight stairs is that they take up a lot of space.
Most often, to save space and ease of use between floors inside the house, they make two-flight turning stairs. The rotation can be right angle (90°) or any other angle up to 180°.
The march can have a curved design with a convenient angle for entering the stairs. In this case, all steps can also be rotary.
Also, two-flight and three-flight stairs may not have platforms, but only rotary steps.
In order to choose the right staircase design for a particular situation, it is necessary to measure the free space that can be used under the stairs, make small calculations and draw a drawing. The drawing should show how the staircase is located, whether its elements interfere and how comfortable it will be.
Elements of wooden stairs
The above photo shows the elements that make up the stairs, and their names are indicated.
Kosour is a load-bearing beam that supports steps and risers from below. It bears all the loads.
bowstring also performs a support-bearing function. At the same time, there are recesses in it, into which the steps are inserted with the butt. This design used on one side if the ladder is adjacent to the wall, and on both sides - if the march is sandwiched between two walls. The bowstring is less preferable than the kosour due to the fact that it is not able to withstand heavy loads. Therefore, even if the stairs adjoin the wall, they still try to complete it on the stringers.
steps for stairs - wooden beams, consist of a tread (horizontal) and a riser (vertical). We step on the surface of the tread with our feet. And the riser is a vertical beam under the step, which encloses the tread space and performs a supporting function. It is possible to make stairs without a riser, in which case the step space will be free, the leg will not rest, but the structure will be less durable and reliable.
Steps can be rectangular, radius for a beautiful entry to the stairs, swivel at a certain angle to replace the dividing platform and running - the first step of a non-standard shape.
railing for stairs - wooden balusters and handrails. Their shape and size may vary. Basically, railings are made to order, in the form that the customer wishes.
If the staircase is more than one-flight, its design includes support post or pillars at the turning points of the stairs.
Before proceeding with the manufacture of stairs, it is imperative to make calculations and complete a drawing. Wooden drawings for stairs are made both independently and with the help of special architectural programs. In the latter, you can also perform calculations. A good solution would be to contact companies specializing in wooden stairs. So you can be sure of the quality and accuracy of the calculations.
Calculation of a wooden staircase
Number of steps and riser height
To determine the height of the stairs, we measure the distance from the base of the finished floor of the first floor to the finished floor of the second floor. If the finishing floor is not yet equipped, then its dimensions must be laid on the basis of "by eye". Because the wooden staircase becomes only on the final floor. In this case, we assume that the height from floor to ceiling is 250 cm, the thickness interfloor overlap together with the floor - 35 cm. Total 285 cm.
We make a calculation, starting from the height of the riser. The fact is that most often this size is standard and ranges from 15.2 to 19.7 cm. It is believed that this height is the most optimal for ease of use. Smaller - will knock down the step. Large - too heavy to climb and difficult to descend. From this interval we take the average value (you can take any) - 17 cm.
Number of steps = ladder height / riser height;
Since the number of steps cannot be uneven, we round up - 17 pieces.
In doing so, we have two options. We can make the first winder step small, and the rest with a riser of 17 cm. Or we can recalculate and get a more accurate, but uneven result.
To do this, we divide the height of the stairs by the number of steps: 285/17 \u003d 16.76 cm.
So we can complete 17 identical steps with riser height 16.7 cm.
It is believed that the minimum tread width for convenience should be 22 cm, and the maximum 37 - 40 cm. If less, it will be difficult to descend, if more, the step will go astray.
For a more accurate calculation, there is a dependence:
- 2a + b = 64 cm;
- a + b = 47 cm;
a is the height of the riser;
b is the width of the tread.
Let's try the second formula: 47 cm - 16.7 cm = 30.3 cm. This width is quite acceptable, we can round it up to 30 cm.
For the sake of interest, we calculate according to the second formula: 2a + 16.7 = 64; a = 23.65 cm. This width is too small, so we will use the data obtained from the previous formula.
The width of the march of the wooden stairs
In principle, the width of the march is not strictly regulated in any way, but the number of marches will depend on the place that can be used for the stairs.
It is believed that the minimum comfortable width of the march is 80 cm. If the stairs are narrower, there will be difficulties with the passage of full people or with the passage of furniture. Options from 100 to 140 cm will be successful.
In order for the whole structure of the stairs to look organic, you can use the following hint: the width of the march should be a multiple of the width of the tread. In our case, these are 60 cm, 90 cm, 120 cm and 160 cm.
Ladder length
To calculate the length of the stairs, we need only two values that we have already calculated, this is the width of the tread and the number of steps.
Stair length = tread width * number of steps(without the last one - this will be the floor of the second floor);
30 * 16 = 480 cm.
4 meters and 80 cm- a rather large length, which "eats" a lot of space.
Therefore, if it is not possible to equip such a staircase in one flight and straight, you will have to change the design and make it two-flight with a turn of 180 °. In this case, you can make a dividing platform, or you can make turning steps. It is most convenient to make such calculations in special programs, where the location of the elements of the stairs will also be clearly visible.
Clearance height above steps
An important parameter. The beginning of the flight of stairs almost always falls under the ceiling, thus reducing the free space above the head of the person walking up the stairs.
Even at the stage of creating a drawing, it is necessary to calculate the height from the highest step, located under the ceiling, to the ceiling. The minimum allowable value that can provide a comfortable entry to the stairs, even the most tall people, is 195 - 200 cm.
Stringer length
Calculated using the Pythagorean theorem.
Ladder length2 + ladder height2 = kosour length2;
4802+2852= stringer length2;
230400 + 81225 = stringer length2;
Stringer length = 558,23 cm. We take with a margin of 560 or 580 cm.
How to make a wooden staircase
by the most simple solution will order from the company a project and ready-made elements of the stairs, with all the necessary cutouts. All elements will be numbered. After the unassembled stairs are delivered to the construction site, wooden stairs are assembled according to the attached drawing and diagram. So you do not have to buy a special tool for trimming and dusting around the house.
We buy material for a wooden staircase
If you decide to do self-assembly wooden stairs, start by buying building materials.
For bowstrings or stringers, a beam of 50 * 250 mm is required. Minimum Width it can be 150 mm if the design of the stairs allows.
For risers, we purchase beams with a minimum thickness of 25 mm, you can take thicker ones.
For beam treads, it is better to take from 30 to 40 mm. And you can the same as for the risers.
We order handrails and balusters from the manufacturer or buy ready-made ones, since in order to make them yourself and beautifully, you need to have considerable experience, knowledge and skills.
Install stringers or bowstrings
We cut the beam, which we bought for the stringers, from above and below so that we get the required length of the stairs. Then from below we cut off another thickness of one tread, i.e. 5 cm
Important! The fact is that when we did the calculation of the number of treads, we did not take into account the thickness of the steps. It is really not important for the whole structure, except for the first step - its height does not increase by the thickness of the tread.
We cut off the excess. It is better to use a jigsaw or a saw. But for lack of it, you can use a hand saw.
Then we attach the kosour to the place where the ladder will stand. Its upper edge should rest against the ceiling, and the lower one should rest firmly against the floor of the first floor. We check the horizontalness of the cuts for the steps.
Important! We need two such stringers, but depending on the loads that the staircase must withstand, there may be more stringers. In this case, we cut out all the others, using the first one as a template.
Thoroughly sand all surfaces. If necessary, we mill the outer edges, making roundings (for beauty).
At the bottom and at the top of the stringers must be connected to each other by a beam. To do this, cut them a quarter from the bottom and top. We fix to a thick beam with anchor bolts. If it is possible to fix the stringers to the walls, then we also use anchors.
If we use one bowstring, then it must be cut to the required length. Then cut out holes inside with a cutter - recesses for steps. The bowstring is fixed to the wall with anchors.
Important! Checking correct location bowstrings and kosour on the other hand, they should be located on the same level so that the steps do not have a slope.
Install steps and risers
After the stringers are tightly fixed, we begin to put the risers.
To do this, we cut the beam into required amount risers of a certain length. We level them relative to each other and sand them.
Fasten to the kosour with self-tapping screws front side. Then we putty them or hide them under decorative elements. You can also use special glue.
When all the risers are installed, proceed to the steps - treads.
To do this, we also saw the beam into the number of steps minus one. Then we skin their surface and mill the protruding outer edge with an angle.
Then we put them on top of the risers and fix them with self-tapping screws or screws.
Important! If we use the bowstring on one side, then we insert the step into the groove cut out in the bowstring, having previously glued the edge of the step and the hole in the bowstring.
We install the balusters on the steps and fix them with studs 100 mm long and 8 mm thick.
From above we install and fix the railing with self-tapping screws.
At this point, the work is completed, only the painting of the wooden stairs remains. For better preservation of wood, while preserving its natural beauty, you can use special transparent varnish coatings.
In this article, we examined the manufacture of a single-flight straight wooden staircase with our own hands. If the project involves a staircase of a different design, then the installation will be different. For example, for a two-flight staircase, the platform and the supporting column are first installed and fixed, and then the stringers, risers and steps are already installed. Some steps in this case may not be straight, but rotary and rounded.
Any interfloor staircase in the house is a compromise between safety, convenience and space saving. Even in a fairly spacious room, this is not easy, and finding a place for a ladder in a bath is much more difficult. The premises, as a rule, are small, and because of this, one has to solve a problem with a lot of unknowns. Because the staircase in the bath requires a balanced approach.
- 1 Entrance staircase to the bath
- 1.1 Foundations for entrance stairs to the bath
- 2 Stairs in the bathhouse to the second floor
- 3 Types of wooden stairs
- 4 A little about steps, sizes and terms
- 5 How to calculate the stairs to the bath
- 6 How to make yourself a ladder in the bath
Usually several steps are needed here and there are no strict restrictions due to lack of space. Therefore, we can do as GOST advises:
Since baths are most often built of wood, stairs are usually made of the same material. You need to choose breeds that are resistant to climatic influences. Larch is best suited, pine will behave well. Be sure to treat all components with antifungal and protective impregnations (for example, Senezh).
Foundations for the entrance stairs to the bath
The foundation for the stairs is usually made of pile or columnar. The fastest and cheapest to manufacture is a pile of bored piles. Even faster, but more expensive installed only screw piles but their cost is higher. All work on the arrangement of the underground part of the porch is carried out after the foundation of the building has been established.
If the soils are heaving (clay or loam), the piles should be buried below the freezing level of the soil. In the lower part, it is desirable to make an extension (TISE piles), then there will be a guarantee that the porch will not be pushed out during the winter heaving.
Entrance stairs to the bath pile foundation deep
The entrance staircase, if necessary, can be made shallow. Then they use not piles, but columns. Their depth is at least 40 cm below the fertile layer. But then, during heaving, the ladder will rise. So that at the same time she does not block the doors, a high threshold will be needed.
If you don’t want to make a threshold, you can make the upper platform attached to the wall of the house. To do this, during construction, beams are laid on which the upper platform will be assembled.
Entrance wooden staircase shallow (to enlarge the image, click on the picture with the left mouse button)
In this case, a transverse support for a kosour or bowstring is nailed to the beams built into the wall. The same beam is also made on the "bull-calves" - shallow pillars. In this case, it turns out that the stairs can be warped, but the upper platform will remain in place.
Stairs in the bath to the second floor
If the second floor in the bath has a seasonal use - no one will live there in winter, it makes sense to take the lift out of the room - to the veranda or to the extension. So, firstly, you will save space in the bathhouse itself, and secondly, you will not be venting through the hatch to the second floor of the room.
Planning an "L"-shaped staircase
If the second floor will be used in cold weather, you will have to enter the design. In doing so, you will have to consider many factors:
- It is necessary to arrange the stairs so that it not only fits well on the first floor, but also on the second, having risen, you do not rest against the sloping ceiling with your head: often in the baths, not a full-fledged second floor is built on, but they make an attic with the help of a sloping roof or kick it out, as they say 1.5 floors, and then comes the roof.
- It is advisable to make an exit on the second floor near one of the walls: this is how it is “eaten up” less area. It is very inconvenient to have a hole in the middle of the room: it is problematic to organize the space normally.
- Choose the parameters of the stairs so that it is both convenient and safe.
The stairs in the bathhouse to the second floor can be with straight and curved marches. Curved stairs on their own, without experience, to calculate and build - will not work: it's too difficult. Because basically everything is done in a straight line.
When choosing a model with straight flights, it is not necessary that the span be one (these are single-flight stairs) - along the wall. You can design it in the form of the letter "G" or "P". In this case, straight sections are connected by platforms or winder - turning - steps.
Different types of stairs to the second floor (to enlarge the image, click on the picture with the left mouse button)
Please note that marches can be closed and open. In closed marches there are risers - details that cover the gap between two steps. A turn in the stairs can be made with a rectangular platform (in the figure, the leftmost option) or with winder (triangular) steps (two options in the figure).
This is a staircase with a closed flight - with risers
In one place it is better not to make many winder steps, as in the figure in the center - you will have to climb “along the wall”, that is, where the steps are wider. The most optimal number of them is three to four. But not always such an option can be entered into the existing conditions, and then you have to compromise.
U-shaped stairs to the second floor are usually poorly built into small visits: when designing, shafts are specially left under them or a place is provided. Much easier in this regard with the placement of "L"-shaped.
L-shaped stairs are easier to fit into small rooms in the bath. The marches here are open - there are no risers
The staircase in the bathhouse to the 2nd floor in the form of the letter “G” can, as in the photo above, go along two walls, or it can adjoin only one of them.
A little about steps, sizes and terms
We have already talked about what winder steps are - these are triangular or trapezoidal-shaped rotary steps. But these are not all terms. To calculate the stairs for the bath stairs yourself, you need to know some rules, terms and tolerances. With the height and width of the steps: this is understandable. But there is such a thing as a lifting step. This is, in fact, the height of the step, but always taking into account the thickness of the material. Since the materials can be different, the lifting step can vary significantly.
The following step sizes are considered the best: a width of about 30 cm, a lifting step of 15-16 cm. But these are average figures. For people of average height with medium long legs. And these parameters, as you know, are different for everyone. If you are planning for yourself, you can calculate based on how it will be more convenient for you and your family members.
The width of the step is determined by the length of the foot. It is more convenient when the entire foot rests on the step, and not just part of it.
It will be more convenient to go up and down if the entire foot rests on the step
But this, unfortunately, is not always possible. If the decrease is insignificant and you will not have to use the stairs very often, as in a bath, for example, then they also go to reduce the width of the step. If the bathhouse is residential, or used as a guest house, you can find a way out by making the duck step ladder. It is distinguished by steps of unequal width: on one side there is a cutout. In this case, you have to start the descent or ascent from a certain foot. Look at the photo of such a ladder and everything will become clear.
You can make a goose step staircase to the bathhouse. It has curly steps. You have to climb it with a certain foot in order to get to the wide part
Climbing up and down these steps you are forced to change your gait. Which is why the name came about. But at the same time, it allows you to make a very, very steep climb, and without much threat from safety.
When calculating, they do not use the height of the room, but the distance from the floor of the first floor to the floor of the second. To do this, add the thickness of the ceiling to the height of the ceiling and finishing materials floor of the second floor. This value is also needed in the calculation.
The number of steps is simple: the distance found from floor to floor is divided by the recommended lifting step - 15-16 cm. The resulting figure is rounded up (see for yourself up or down). For example, the distance from floor to floor is 280 cm. Divide by 15 cm, we get 18.6, round it up, we get that there should be 19 steps in our staircase.
Now let's determine what the lifting step will be in this case: we divide 280 cm into 19 steps. It will turn out 147 cm. Not enough. If there are no children or elderly people in the family, you can consider installing 18 steps. In this case, the lift height will be 155 cm. This value fits into the recommendations. So for a person of average height it will be more convenient.
Another point that requires verification: the size of the opening under the stairs on the second floor. In order not to hit the head on the opening during the descent, it is necessary that the distance from the step located below to the clearance be 200 cm (minimum 190 cm).
In order not to hit your head when descending, check the distance from the step to the edge of the cutout. By the way, this is an example of a single-flight staircase. But there is a very steep angle of ascent, apparently, neither small children nor the elderly go to the bath
If the height is less than 190 cm, there are two ways out: increase the size of the passage through the floors (make it longer). If this is not possible, increase the ascent step, making the stairs steeper. But more than 210 mm it can not be done. as a solution - slightly increase the clearance and at the same time slightly increase the rise.
The finished step parameters must be checked according to the convenience formula. If you add up the lifting step multiplied by 2 and the step width, then the result should be in the range from 600 to 650 mm. So, if the lifting step is 155 mm, and the step width is 300 mm, we get 155 mm * 2 + 300 mm = 610 mm. We fit into the norm. If not, an adjustment is needed.
The minimum width of the stairs to the bath is 80 cm, the optimal one is 100 cm. Plan somewhere in this area.
Don't forget that everything wooden surfaces in the bath, it is desirable to treat with protective impregnations. How and what, read here.
How to make a ladder in the bath yourself
In addition to the parameters of the steps, you also need to decide how to build the staircase itself. Wooden stairs are made on bowstrings or stringers. A bowstring is a board between which steps are attached. They have smooth edges, and the steps are fixed precisely between them, with the help of corners, bars. They also cut out special grooves.
Ways of fastening the steps to the bowstrings of the stairs (to enlarge the image, click on the picture with the left mouse button)
Kosour differs in that it has a sawtooth profile. The steps are laid on the molded ledge.
How to make a kosour for the stairs to the bath (to enlarge the image, click on the picture with the left mouse button)
It is easier to make a ladder with bowstrings: it requires a much lower level of carpentry skill. This is especially true for mortise steps or when they are mounted on corners. Here the skills required are generally minimal.
How to build a staircase to the bath on a string (to enlarge the image, click on the picture with the left mouse button)
How to build a staircase to a bathhouse on a bowstring: it all starts with the installation of a bowstring and supporting pillars, if any. support post- usually a square beam of at least 150 * 150 cm. Boards with a thickness of at least 4-5 cm go to the bowstrings and steps. They are needed good quality without knots and cracks. Bowstrings are attached to the wall with long nails or wood screws.
Then steps are installed on the corners or support bars. If there finished project, it should have a complete layout for the dimensions of each step. If there is no project, in difficult places you can first make patterns from cardboard, then outlining them on wood and sawing them out accurately. This will definitely be needed with winder steps (swivel). All others must be standard sizes.
If you still want to make a ladder on stringers, watch the video. It's all very well said.
Many are interested in how to make a staircase to the second floor on their own. There is nothing complicated in making wooden stairs with your own hands. It is quite difficult to make a flight of stairs from metal or concrete, it is much easier and more pleasant to work with wood. The staircase should be beautiful, strong, safe and durable, so you need to try and do everything right.
Then you need to find out how much the material costs. If possible, you can order ready-made elements for stairs from the manufacturer - steps, balusters, risers. It will cost more, but you can skip the manufacturing process and immediately proceed with the installation. If you decide to make all the elements yourself, then you need to purchase the following materials:
- timber for steps 4-4.5 cm thick;
- boards (dimensions depending on the calculations);
- beams for tread and risers from 3 to 4 cm;
- timber for stringers 5X2.5cm;
- stainless steel screws;
- handrails, balusters and railings (it is better to purchase ready-made ones, without a professional tool it is difficult to make them yourself).
You need to prepare the following tools:
- simple pencil;
- meter;
- square;
- hammer;
- hacksaw.
Manufacturing process
According to pre-prepared templates, you need to cut out all the elements. Everything must be made highest level so that the quality is not questioned. First, make the side bases. To do this, measure the angle of contact with the floor and carefully draw a line horizontally. From this line they push further and measure the width and height of each step to the very top. They do the same with another kosour. At the bottom, the stringers are fixed using a support beam, and on the ceiling they are inserted into pre-cut gaps. Periodically check the evenness and horizontality of the structure. If you make an inaccuracy, in the future it will create additional inconvenience, and the quality of the stairs will suffer.
Next, the risers are cut out and nailed to the already established basis. The risers should be level, without distortions and cracks. The stairs can be made without risers, so it looks lighter and weightless, but not everyone likes this option. Now it's the turn of the steps. It must be remembered that the treads should have rounded edges. Steps are often made from one solid board or from two narrower ones. Treads are fixed with nails and screws.
According to safety rules, if there are children in the house, the operation of the stairs without railings is not allowed. Therefore, the railing is not only decorative, but also safe. At the same time, if there are small children in the house, there should be two balusters on each step.
If it is not possible to purchase ready-made balusters and railings, they can be made independently from the bars. To make homemade balusters stand firmly, grooves can be cut in the steps. After installing the balusters, a handrail from a bar is fixed on top. Railings do not have to be wooden. The combination of a wooden flight of stairs with forged or metal railings looks original. Sometimes they even order railings from tempered glass, although this is hardly a practical solution. You can make stairs without railings, but it's quite dangerous.
The staircase in the bath is a compromise between convenience, aesthetics and safety requirements.
Usually wood is used
Design features
At the input and internal model General characteristics. According to the material, wood is a priority, since more often baths are made from it. Solid beams, glued or rounded timber are used. From the breeds choose those that tolerate changes in the microclimate and are resistant to decay: birch, oak or larch. conifers short-lived and emit resin.
As for the varieties of structures, mid-flight stairs, both straight and rotary, are mainly used here.
Space is saved by leaving open steps.
Ladder options:
- entrance upstairs from the street (for the summer period);
- from an annex;
- indoors (used all year round).
Types of stairs in the bath
It is important to ensure that the steps do not clutter up the space, and the rise ensures safety.
Entrance to the bath
Let's take a look at each type of structure. To equip the porch, the foundation is first built after the building has undergone basic shrinkage. Several types of piles are driven in:
- For deep laying. They are installed below the level of soil freezing to maintain the position of the porch during the period of seasonal fluctuations. There are bored and screw.
- For shallow placement. Columns (steers) are used, which are deepened below the fertile layer by 40–50 cm. To avoid deformation of the structure, the site is attached to the building with the help of beams and crossbars.
The porch to the bathhouse should be equipped after the basic shrinkage of the building
If the access to the second floor is planned from the outside, the same requirements apply for it. The parameters fit into the GOST standards: treads - within 25-30 cm, and risers - 15-20 cm.
The steps are attached to bowstrings or stacked on stringers. Consider a fence. It is desirable to mount the beams holding the platform into the wall.
Rise to the second floor
To equip the stairs in the bathhouse, you will need a thorough study of the available area and the selection of use cases.
Traditional mid-flight structures are placed aside, closer to the corners, building an L-shaped or U-shaped staircase. Thanks to this configuration, it is possible to reduce the affected area.
Mounting process:
- Support beams are installed at the beginning of the ascent to the second floor and on the turning part.
- Steps to the wall and supports are attached to stringers or straight bowstrings. In the first case, it is recommended to cut out the ridges, and in the second, notches for treads.
- Installation depends on the selected design model. Additionally, they make closed risers.
- Wooden handrails are attached to the outer part of the march. Use of other materials is not recommended due to heat.
Installation of stairs in the bath
If there is a catastrophic lack of space for construction, a compact goose step design is used.
Here it is possible to increase the slope while maintaining safety and convenience due to the treads alternating in width. Such models are often used for utility rooms, attics and mansards.
You need to think about the location of the stairs even at the construction stage. Changing the finished interior is much more difficult to implement, and the price of this service is much higher than the usual installation of a flight of stairs.
The staircase in the bath connects not only the steam room with the dressing room, but can serve as an exit to the porch or to the attic. If the house and the bath are located very close, then it is quite possible to tie them together. The stairs leading from the bathhouse to the second and first floors will allow you and your guests to quickly move from one room to another.
There are many options to save space. Spiral staircase in the bath will not take up much space, and at the same time will give interior decoration beauty and some uniqueness. 
Order a ladder for a bath
Stairs for outdoor and internal baths can become a real decoration. "Ladder Pro" is ready to decorate your stairs with any additional elements. Figured design of pillars, balusters and bowstrings will make your staircase one of the most beautiful places in the house. Pine, which is the main raw material for manufacturing, is perfectly processed, which makes it possible to realize the most daring fantasies of the client.
You can buy a ladder to the bathhouse made of wood, metal, concrete or glass using the contacts that you can find on official page"Ladder Pro". Here you are offered a large selection of ready-made flights of stairs, you can also order an individual project.
In addition to the stairs to the bathhouse on the 2nd floor, you can buy all the accessories from us - bowstrings, steps, balusters, forged and carved railings. A large selection of styles will give you a wide range of choices. Here you will find everything: modern glass products that make the room brighter, classic wooden stairs, which are in constant demand by the buyer. Turning to us, you will get the best that is on the market of Moscow and Moscow region! "Ladder Pro" - climb higher with us!
