Today, polystyrene foam, or plastic tiles for pasting the ceiling is perhaps the most common material. It is inexpensive, easy to glue, easy to maintain, and modern manufacturers offer such wide choose tile performance, that you can easily transform your room with it into what your fantasy tells you.
Everyone who decides to repair the ceiling with tiles wants to approach this work not only individually, but also responsibly. You will need to learn a few features of choosing the right tile, rules preparatory work and other interesting information.
First of all, let's look at what types of tiles exist in order to accurately choose the one that suits you best.
Choosing a ceiling tile: types and their features
Expanded polystyrene tiles for the ceiling come in several varieties, and each differs both in appearance and in the method of production:
- The pressed tile is made by stamping from polystyrene blocks; the minimum thickness of the plate is 6 mm, the maximum is 8 mm;
- Extruded blocks, which are produced from a strip of polystyrene by pressing, have a smooth glossy surface, imitate natural materials- marble, stone, wood;
- Injection tiles are produced by sintering raw materials, have the correct shape, deep pattern; plate thickness from 9 to 14 mm.
In order to properly glue tiles to, pay special attention when buying to the physical, and especially the geometric parameters of the product.
For example, you opted for a square-shaped tile. All corners of the element must be absolutely right, that is, equal to 90 degrees. Any deviation, even the slightest, in the process of work will lead to the formation of uneven seams, and this will entail additional material costs and an unaesthetic appearance of the ceiling. Rounding or bending the corners of the tiles is not allowed in any case.
It is also very important to take into account the material from which the ceiling tiles are made. Make sure that the edges of the polystyrene tile do not crumble, and the grains are the same in size. Fine-grained tiles are considered to be of the highest quality.
The Styrofoam plate, if it is of high quality, will not break under its own weight when you hold it on weight around the corner. The pattern must be clear and uniform throughout the package. Any flaws, dents and deformations are strictly prohibited.
Adhesive for ceiling tiles: the right choice is the key to success
Have you ever thought about how important it is to choose the right one for a particular job? Many people mistakenly believe that “glue is also glue in Africa”, and whatever you take, it will grab it well anyway. True, then you have to redo the repair again, spending even more money and time on it.
Manufacturers of construction and repair materials It is not in vain that for many years adhesive substances have been distributed according to a narrow specialization. It can be considered a marketing ploy that there are a huge variety of types of glue for the same ceiling tile on store shelves. But the fact is obvious: with glue for pressed tiles, you are unlikely to attach injection tiles to the ceiling with high quality. What features should be considered in order to choose the right option?
- Firstly, the adhesive should give your ceiling covering many years of service without the need to modify it from time to time. individual elements.
- Secondly, the adhesive must have high bonding properties to ensure ease of use. Working with a ceiling is much more difficult than with a floor and even a wall, so it is important to attach each tile to the surface as quickly as possible.
- Thirdly, it is very important to consider the consumption of glue. The more adhesive the substance has, the less you will use it, significantly saving on materials.
- Fourthly, the glue should equally fit on the surface in both small and large layers. This is due to the fact that in many houses the floors are uneven, which creates differences between the tiles of about 2 cm. In such cases, more glue may be needed so that the tiles do not fall off. You can pre-level the ceiling, but this is a time-consuming and expensive procedure.
First you need to determine how many tiles will be needed for the entire ceiling area. The calculation is quite simple: you need the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling and the exact size of each plate. The standard size of a ceiling tile is 50 x 50 cm.
It may turn out that the dimensions of the ceiling and the side of the tile are not a multiple. This will lead to gaps at the edges. It is for this case that experts recommend buying 10-15% more tiles than with preliminary calculation. This will also insure you against culling or cropping errors.
For your information: you can save a lot on glue if you choose a liquid rubber based product - its consumption is much lower. In order for the fixation to be strong, let the glue applied to the tile dry a little.
How to glue ceiling tiles correctly: we describe the workflow step by step
Gluing ceiling tiles with your own hands is not a difficult task, and therefore many do this work themselves. For beginners, our tips will definitely come in handy.
- First of all, you need to mark the center of the area to be trimmed. Pull two threads from the corners located diagonally. The place where the threads intersect will be the very center.
- You can start from , taking its location as the center. You will need to cut off the corners of the plates at the junction at the wire. At the end of the work, you will close this gap with a figured glass attached to the chandelier rod.
- The fastest and in a simple way you can call the gluing of tiles from the wall row by row. If you have chosen this option, then consider one nuance: you need to lay the first row against the wall opposite front door or window. Thus, the gaps closed by partial fragments will not be noticeable. Carefully cut off the edges of the tile before gluing it. Thus, you will get a ceiling tile without seams with a perfectly flat surface.
- Do not forget to observe the symmetry of the pattern at the junctions of the elements. Any deviation can disrupt the entire finish.
There are several options for placing tiles on the ceiling relative to the walls in the room. The most commonly used parallel and diagonal arrangement. Tiles can be plain, colored and combined. For the combined option, there are the following arrangement methods:
- snake;
- Alternating diagonals;
- Intersecting diagonals;
- In the center of the ceiling;
- Along the perimeter of the ceiling;
- In a checkerboard pattern.
After all the work is finished, install around the perimeter of the ceiling. If you chose plastic skirting boards, use the same glue as for tiles, if wooden ones, it would be more correct to fix them with nails or self-tapping screws.
Ceiling tiles without seams: what are its advantages?
Seamless ceiling tiles - practically perfect option if you want your ceiling to look noble. In fact, this is a styrofoam tile familiar to us, but its edges are designed so that the joints are almost invisible. This material is very fond of interior designers, because it allows you to transform any room without much time.
- Seamless ceiling tiles are made from expanded polystyrene by hot stamping. This method compacts the sheets to a thickness of about 5 mm.
- The usual size of models of seamless ceiling tiles is 50 X 50 cm, while there are usually 8 such tiles in a package. This allows you to clad a ceiling with an area of 2 square meters without much effort or measurement.
- Tiles can have both a smooth and wavy outline. The form is designed in such a way that docking is as easy as possible, and the transition is perfectly observed.
- The design of seamless tiles is very diverse: imitation plaster moldings, natural texture of stone or wood, wood carving.
The advantages of seamless ceiling tiles are obvious:
- Low cost;
- fire resistance;
- moisture resistance;
- Ease of maintenance;
- Possibility of painting in any color.
In addition, with the help of seamless tiles it is easy to hide the irregularities of the ceiling, and you do not have to deal with leveling.
Tip: when buying a seamless ceiling tile, immediately purchase a special ceiling plinth. It will be needed in order to hide the joints of the wall and ceiling, where the tile cutting line is located.
Preparing the ceiling surface for the installation of seamless tiles
To install a seamless tile, you do not need special skills - it is practically no different from gluing a simple tile. But you will need to perform some preparatory operations. Their quality will determine how effective your ceiling will look later.
- First of all, carefully remove the ceiling from previous finishing materials: remove the old wallpaper with a spatula, clean off the paint with metal brush, blur the whitewash to concrete.
- Be sure to remove the chandelier from the ceiling or dismantle the lamps, insulate the wires from the lighting fixtures.
- Coat the ceiling with a primer in several layers. Modern adhesives allow you to mount the tiles directly on concrete, but the primer enhances adhesion, so it will not be superfluous.
Please note: because seamless tile for the ceiling it hides small surface defects well, so leveling with putty is required only in case of overflows of more than 5 mm and large depressions.
After the preparatory measures are completed, proceed directly to gluing the tiles. This process has several features that you should pay attention to:
- It is advisable, after opening the package with tiles, to leave it to lie down in the room where you plan to mount it;
- To make it easier for yourself, mark the ceiling as described in the third part of the article;
- Be sure to remove the glue that has come out of the gaps immediately so that after it dries, the tile is not damaged.
It is undesirable to glue the tiles on the ceiling, whitewashed in several layers. Such a layer, weighted with glue, will surely collapse over time. It is also not suitable for tiling a ceiling treated with frozen lime. The fact is that such a solution will crumble like dust, and the glue will not have a setting zone.
Be sure to clean the ceiling before work: sweep it from debris and cobwebs and wipe it with a wet cloth.
Video on how to glue ceiling tiles
We hope that our article has shown you all the simplicity and ease of installation of ceiling tiles. Surely these tips will help you in the process, and if you have any questions, ask them in the comments, and we will be happy to answer them. Please leave tips, suggestions, share your experience in gluing ceiling tiles with our readers. Comfort to your home!
Ceiling tiles today are one of the simplest and most available ways ceiling finishes.
Modern ceiling tiles are made from polystyrene and given a rectangular or square shape.
Polystyrene is easy to install, moisture resistant and environmentally friendly material.
Some models have a film dyed to match the texture of the fabric on the front, natural stone, natural wood.
In such products, the surface, as a rule, is embossed.
Ordinary standard ceiling tiles have smooth surface without relief.
Bevels can be made along the edges of the tiles, or there may not be bevels.
It all depends on the model.
If the surface is covered with a film, then it can be washed.
Since she is not afraid of moisture.
If you have chosen a tile that does not have a film, then a vacuum cleaner or a dry cloth is used to clean it.
Today, several varieties of polystyrene foam ceiling tiles are produced.
Each of the types differs in the way it is made and in appearance:
- Pressed tiles, which are made from blocks of polystyrene by stamping. Thickness - 6-8 mm.
- Extruded blocks, which are produced by pressing from a strip of polystyrene. Such blocks have a smooth glossy surface and can imitate natural wood, stone, marble.
- Injection tiles, during the production of which raw materials are sintered. Such products are characterized by a deep pattern and correct form. Thickness - 9-14 mm.
In order for the material to be quickly and efficiently glued to the ceiling, when buying, you should definitely pay attention to its physical and geometric parameters.
If the plate has a square shape, then all its angles should be equal to 90 degrees.
If you notice a deviation, then you have a marriage.
Without perfectly even corners, it will not work to mount tiled elements on the ceiling with an even seam.
You will have to use putty for the seams, which will ultimately entail additional financial costs, and appearance the ceiling will be unaesthetic.
Kneading or rounding the corners of the tiles is prohibited!
You should also pay attention to the quality of the material from which it is made.
The grains of the material should be of the same size, and the material should not crumble at the edges.
Fine-grained tiles are considered the highest quality.
The ceiling plate made of high-quality expanded polystyrene does not break under its own weight.
If the product is taken around the corner and held on weight, then nothing should happen.
If it breaks, it means that it is made of poor quality material.
Each tile should have a clear and uniform pattern.
Deformations, dents, cuts and other defects are unacceptable!
Material Quantity Calculation
Especially if the room is rectangular or square.
Or the tiles are planned to be laid diagonally.
The calculation rules are very simple.
Naturally, all calculations are done on paper.
Ceiling tiles are traditionally laid from the middle to the edge.
Moreover, the wall rows should be of the same width.
On paper, the position of the products is determined with an accuracy of one centimeter.
And only then the markup is transferred to the ceiling.
In order to understand for sure how to correctly calculate, it is better to analyze an example.
The dimensions of the room are 4.7 by 3.8 meters.
The ceiling area is 17.86 meters.
Knowing that the size of one plate is 50x50 cm, we determine the number of whole products.
If the gaps remaining at the edges after laying whole ceiling tiles are no more than 25 cm wide, then one whole tile will go to both sides.
If the width of the gaps on the sides is more than 25 cm, then you will have to use one tile per gap.
In total, we need 80 products.
Such a calculation assumes that there is no violation of the overall pattern on the ceiling.
That is, we mount the plate on the ceiling from wall to wall.
If the pattern is broken, for example, furniture will be installed under one wall up to the ceiling, then the number of tiled elements will decrease.
Helpful advice: if you are not a ceiling tile professional, it is better to purchase a few more products.
They are inexpensive, but you will not have problems if something suddenly goes wrong and you ruin some of the material.
The choice of glue for work
It is very important for ceiling tiles to choose the right adhesive.
For some reason, most people believe that the stove can be mounted on any glue.
This is mistake!
You can take any glue, but not the fact that you will stick everything on it.
Companies that make repairs and Construction Materials, have long developed a narrow specialization for adhesives.
Including special glue for ceiling tiles.
But the adhesive intended for pressed tiles is not suitable for the injection plate.
So how to pick good glue?
The answer is in some respects:
- The glue should attach the tile elements to the base so that you do not have to modify individual elements later.
- The adhesive must have high bonding properties in order to mount the ceiling plate comfortably. After all, working on the ceiling is much more difficult than doing the same on the wall or on the floor. Therefore, the adhesive composition must be such that the product is attached to the base as quickly as possible.
- Very important point is the consumption of glue. And the connection here is direct: the higher the adhesive level of the adhesive, the less it will be required during installation.
- Glue on the surface should lay down qualitatively, both in small layers and in large ones. Indeed, very often (especially in apartment buildings) there is a height difference between the ceiling tiles. And such a difference can be very large. As a result, it may be necessary to apply a larger layer of adhesive in order for the tile to hold firmly. Of course, the ceiling is pre-leveled, but this is not always possible.
By the way, you can save a lot on glue for ceiling tiles if you purchase a liquid-rubber adhesive.
The consumption of such glue is minimal.
And in order for the plate to be firmly fixed, glue should be applied to it and allowed to dry a little.
Preparing the surface of the ceiling
The preparation of the ceiling for gluing should be taken with great responsibility!
After all, the quality and speed of installation, as well as the appearance, depend on how well the ceiling is prepared.
The old coating must be scraped off the ceiling.
If there was wallpaper - they should be removed.
If the ceiling has been whitewashed, the lime layer should be washed off.
If the ceiling has been painted before and the paint is holding firmly (does not peel off, does not crack), then it is not cleaned off.
If it does not hold well, then it should be removed with a spatula.
After everything is cleaned from the ceiling, a layer of deep penetration primer should be applied.
The primer must dry completely.
Day to further work can not start.
Then, if there are noticeable irregularities or deep potholes on the surface of the ceiling, they should be plastered.
With small defects, this can be omitted.
Ceiling tiles will hide all small defects under them.
You should know that the ceiling should be free of black spots.
This is especially important if your tiles are thin.
It is translucent and all spots on the ceiling will be visible.
That's why better surface plaster the ceiling.
After the putty has dried, a deep penetration primer is applied again.
The ceiling surface is ready.
After 24 hours, you can mount the tiles.
Glue ceiling tiles
First of all, you should take care of the tool.
You will need:
- roulette;
- level;
- pencil;
- paint cord;
- construction knife.
Now you can start installation:
- Before you directly start gluing the plates to the ceiling, you need to mark it. Since laying starts from the center, you should first find it. Two threads are pulled from the corners. The place where they intersect is the center of the ceiling.
- If there is a chandelier in the center of the ceiling, then its corners are cut off at the junction of the ceiling tile elements. Anyway, there is a figured glass on the chandelier, which is designed to cover all this.
- The simplest and fast way gluing tiles is laying row by row from the wall. If you choose this option, then the first row must be pasted against the wall opposite the window or door. Then the gaps that may occur during installation will not be so noticeable.
- We apply glue to several plates at once, which are to be glued in the center, for example. Now the glue should dry a little. How much it should be kept - the manufacturer indicates on the package.
- Now we take one tile and apply it to one of the corners exactly in the center of the ceiling.
- After the first product is aligned and glued, we glue three more tiles of the central square.
- We gradually apply glue to the remaining tile elements and glue them to the base of the ceiling, next to the already finished slabs.
- Very rarely does it happen that the tiles on the ceiling fit perfectly. Sometimes you have to cut it. The ceiling slab is cut with a construction knife with a sharp blade. The side of the product with the cut is located against the wall so that it can be covered with a ceiling plinth.
- We install the ceiling plinth.
The main thing during installation is not to rush.
And let the glue dry after application.
Then the plates will seize instantly.
If this is not done, then there will be problems with gluing.
And you will have to hold the product on the ceiling for a fairly decent period of time so that it does not peel off.
The installation process itself is very simple and does not require special professionalism.
Video on how to properly glue the ceiling tiles:
Personal advice - get ceiling tiles without seams.
It's much easier to put on and looks great!
In contact with
A beautifully designed ceiling is sure to catch every eye. The general perception of the room as a whole depends on its type. Ceiling tiles are one of the most popular materials for interior decoration, which is able to transform any room, making it unique and interesting. The types of material, the rules for choosing it, and how to properly glue ceiling tiles are described in detail in this article.
Today, manufacturers produce several options for ceiling tiles. According to the manufacturing technology, there are:
- extruded;
- injection;
- stamped.
The surface of ceiling tiles can be laminated, seamless or mirrored. Laminated products are covered with a special film, which gives the tiles increased moisture resistance. It is available in wide color scheme And long time does not lose its rich color. A special layer is applied on the front side, thanks to which it is possible to achieve a visual expansion of the space.
Seamless tiles on the ceiling have smooth edges, thanks to which the joints are invisible. On the back side of the products there is a marking in the form of triangular arrows. They must be directed in the same direction. This must be taken into account before gluing the ceiling tiles.
Extruded tiles are obtained from a painted or film-coated polystyrene strip created by pressing. As a result, a smooth or embossed product without graininess is formed, 2.5-3 mm thick. This is the most reliable, durable and expensive tile. Thanks to the water and dust-repellent coating, the product washes well and is easily restored at the slightest deformation. Having a dense structure, the tile is easy to cut, which creates smooth edges.
Very often, tiles are produced with a surface painted like wood, stone or marble. It can contain different patterns and be of different colors. The material is ideal for bathrooms.
Important! The extruded type of tile cannot be painted.
A distinctive feature of extruded tiles is their appearance. Its edges are slightly bent on the back side down, which allows it to be used for an uneven ceiling, where it will be possible to hide its imperfections. However, with prolonged exposure sunlight tiles turn yellow. The price of a ceiling tile averages 220-270 rubles. for packing.
Budget options for ceiling tiles
Injection tiles, obtained as a result of sintering raw materials of polystyrene composition. After such processing, high temperature a product with a clearly defined pattern and a regular geometric shape is obtained, the thickness of which is 9-14 mm. Using this material, you can make a ceiling without seams. This type of ceiling tile is an environmentally friendly, durable, non-combustible material that has good sound and thermal insulation characteristics, not afraid of moisture.
It is released only white color. The finished surface can be painted. The price of a package is on average 80-150 rubles.
When the main question is, how much does a ceiling tile cost, the most budget option is a pressed product with a thickness of 6-8 mm, the price of which does not exceed 60 rubles. for packing. The tile is made of polystyrene foam blocks by stamping. The material has a loose, porous surface that quickly absorbs dirt that is difficult to remove. Washing such tiles is strongly not recommended. It's better to color it water-based paint. Due to the fact that the product is too brittle and fragile and it is difficult to achieve a smooth edge during cutting, it is recommended to purchase tiles with some margin.
Advantages and disadvantages of ceiling tiles
Styrofoam ceiling boards are suitable for almost all surfaces, including plaster, wood, brick, concrete and even plaster. With help this material you can create a beautiful and aesthetic ceiling lining, which is able to hide all the flaws in the surface. Depending on the chosen type of product and the option of gluing tiles to the ceiling, you can visually increase the size of the room, reduce the curvature of the walls.
The material has high heat and sound insulation properties, which is especially important for apartments in multi-storey buildings. Gluing ceiling tiles is not a time-consuming process and does not require special skills. In case of deformation of one or more products, they can be easily replaced with new ones without repairing the entire ceiling.
Ceiling tiles are easy to care for without using special means. The surface is cleaned with a dry cloth or vacuum cleaner. For a laminated coating, it is possible to carry out wet cleaning using conventional detergents, which will not lead to deformation of the products.
Among the disadvantages of ceiling tiles, it can be distinguished that the material burns out over time under the influence of direct sun rays. Certain types of products may lose their shape when exposed to moisture. Also, when using this facing material should not be placed close to it. lighting which can lead to deformation of the product.
Determination of the amount of material depending on the area of the ceiling
In order to find out required amount tiles should calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling. If the room resembles the shape of a rectangle, then it is enough to multiply its width and length, the values \u200b\u200bof which are previously measured with a tape measure. If the room has a complex non-standard shape, then it is necessary to measure the length of all sides and depict them on the plan. Next, the drawing should be divided into even rectangles or squares. By determining the area of \u200b\u200beach section, and adding the obtained values, it will be possible to calculate the total area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling.
Next, you should calculate the area of \u200b\u200bone product, which is produced mainly standard size 50 × 50 cm. So, the area of \u200b\u200bone product will be equal to 0.25 m². Now the resulting ceiling area must be divided by the area of one tile and get their total number. However, today manufacturers have begun to produce other sizes of ceiling tiles, such as 40x40, 60x60, 40x70, 30x70 and 30x60 cm.
However, it should be remembered that when gluing products, errors are possible that will lead to deformation, damage or breakage of the tile. It is also worth considering the dimensions of the gaps that form on the ceiling after gluing whole tiles. If half a tile is needed to fill them, then the whole product will fill two gaps. And if the size of the space takes up more than half, then a whole tile is consumed. Therefore, the material should be purchased with some margin of about 10% of the total.
How to glue tiles on the ceiling: product placement options
There are many options for placing ceiling tiles. Photos of beautifully designed ceilings using this material clearly demonstrate this. Here you can create different geometric figures, combine products using tiles of different colors. However, each option requires precise markup.
Installation of tiles is carried out mainly from the middle of the ceiling. To determine it, you need to draw two diagonal lines. Further, for easy installation of tiles, perpendicular straight lines should be drawn to each side that pass through the center. Such marking is mandatory and universal, regardless of the method of laying the tiles.
Helpful advice! Laying ceiling tiles small room it is better to carry out from the corner, which will allow you to create a continuous surface without increasing material consumption.
The main options for laying the product on the ceiling:
- classical;
- diagonal;
- chess order;
- snake.
The classic laying of tiles is carried out in rows parallel to the walls, starting from the center. This is ideal for seamless ceiling tiles, which create a complete cladding surface. Also, products can be glued in rows with a shift of half a tile. This will give lightness and airiness to the room.
The second option involves gluing products along diagonal lines, with the help of which control will be carried out. proper styling tiles. The result is a smooth and beautiful ceiling coating.
For laying tiles in a checkerboard pattern, products of two colors are used, with the help of which the necessary checkerboard effect is created by the alternation method. Start laying tiles from the center of the ceiling, placing the edges of the products parallel to the walls. This option allows you to hide the flaws of the ceiling surface.
For the latter option, you will need tiles in two contrasting shades. The stacking of products starts from the center, where a graphic display of a snake twisted in a spiral is created.
Related article:
Varieties of expanded polystyrene ceiling tiles, their advantages and disadvantages, installation features and useful tips for gluing.
How to glue ceiling tiles?
Before gluing the tiles to the ceiling, it is necessary to prepare the surface for finishing. It must be completely free of old finish. In the presence of depressions, dents, cracks, significant irregularities, defects should be eliminated with putty. After the material has completely dried, it is necessary to prime the surface in order to improve the adhesion of the ceiling and future tiles.
Helpful advice! Before sticking ceiling tiles, leave them for two to three days in a warm and dry place to evaporate from it. excess moisture. Otherwise, products on the ceiling may shrink, which will cause cracks to form.
To complete the work, you will need a clerical knife, a ruler, a pencil, a stepladder and glue. After the preparatory work, the ceiling is marked with the definition of its center point. All windows and doors in the room should be closed to eliminate the possibility of a draft. Next is the direct installation of products.
Important! Before installing tiles at the location of the chandelier, it is necessary to de-energize the room.
Before gluing the tiles to the ceiling, you should apply a special adhesive. Depending on the selected material, it can be distributed around the perimeter of the product and in the center, or in a thin layer over its entire surface. Special attention should be given to the middle and corners of the product. The first tile is attached to the middle of the ceiling and pressed tightly against it. If a chandelier is located here, then a hole for the wires must first be made in the product. All subsequent tiles are laid according to the selected option.
All ceiling tiles should be in close contact with each other, leaving no visible gaps. In the case of an uneven ceiling between products, the formation of cracks is inevitable. In this case, they can be sealed with white acrylic sealant. It is squeezed out into the formed cracks, filling them, and thereby strengthening the tiles on the ceiling. Excess adhesive must be removed immediately.
Helpful advice! If the tile is very soft, press it with wooden beam so as not to damage the surface of the product with your fingers.
When it is necessary to cut the tiles at the edge of the ceiling, you should first try on. The product should be cut in such a way as to create a minimum gap between the wall and the tile, which will subsequently be hidden behind the baseboard.
After complete drying of the cladding, you can paint it with water-based paint based on latex or acrylic. For uniform application of the layer, use a roller with a foam surface. At least two coats must be applied. It is recommended to prime the surface before painting.
How to glue ceiling tiles diagonally and rhombus
When laying foam ceiling tiles diagonally, you can get an unusual facing coating that will not only add originality to the interior, but also skillfully allow you to hide the slight curvature of the walls.
Before sticking the tiles on the ceiling, a universal marking of the surface is performed. The first tile is glued in the center so that its corners are located at 45 degrees. relative to the walls of the room and crossed the diagonals of the ceiling. Further, the next tile is closely glued to each of the four sides. Then, all subsequent products are carefully joined until the ceiling is completely filled.
The extreme rows are laid last, when the main central part of the surface is pasted over.
Before you glue the ceiling tiles with a rhombus, you should familiarize yourself with the features of this finishing technology. First of all, the center of the ceiling is determined and its marking is performed. The first tile should be glued so that one of its corners touches the center, and two adjacent sides coincide with the diagonal lines. The second tile is located symmetrically on the other side of the center. The third and fourth fit into places between the first two, thereby forming an even rhombus. From it, the rest of the tiles are laid, moving to the edges of the ceiling. Here you should carefully join the products to prevent visible seams.
This method is ideal for an expanded polystyrene ceiling with a pronounced pattern, which gives free rein to the embodiment of design fantasy. However, it should be borne in mind that in order to create a perfect pattern on the ceiling, material consumption increases significantly.
What to glue the ceiling tiles on?
When the important question arises of how to glue ceiling tiles, it is worth considering all the available compositions, evaluating them distinctive features. Here it is necessary to take into account heat resistance, stickiness, setting and drying time.
Adhesive for water based is a durable, reliable and environmentally friendly material. It contains natural ingredients such as bone glue and cellulose. However, this is what contributes to the growth of bacteria under the product. Therefore, the surface of the ceiling before laying tiles using this composition must be treated with a special antibacterial agent. The disadvantage of glue is that it dries for a long time and has little adhesion compared to synthetic compounds.
Solvent based ceiling tile adhesive is made from volatile liquids where various polymers dissolve. It dries quickly, which makes it difficult to install products.
The hot melt adhesive contains exclusively thermoplastic polymers, which makes it best material based on polyurethane. It has high adhesion. However, before use, it must be heated to a certain temperature, which creates difficulties for a beginner who is laying tiles for the first time.
Glue "liquid nails", the instruction of which suggests its use for polystyrene foam ceiling tiles, is the best option for uneven surfaces. The composition creates a strong and reliable connection. The disadvantage of the composition is its high price and the need to purchase a special tool.
When the question arises of how to glue the tiles in order to ensure the maximum service life of the facing surface, the adhesive compound should be preferred. It is made on the basis of epoxy or polyester resins. It is very easy to use and creates maximum adhesion. However, it is worth considering that the glue sets quickly, so it is recommended to cook it in small portions. The main disadvantage of this composition is the high cost.
Ceiling tile care
In order for the ceiling to always have an attractive appearance, it is enough not only to decorate it beautifully, but also to maintain the coating in good condition. Ceiling tiles do not require special care. It is enough just to regularly clean it from the accumulated dust. This will extend the life of the material and maintain the original appearance of the ceiling for a long period.
To keep the tiles looking well-groomed, it is necessary to dry-clean them once a month with a fluffy brush or vacuum cleaner. Wet cleaning for laminated surfaces should be performed at least once every two months. Here you can use the usual detergents, which do not contain caustic components that can damage the surface of products.
Helpful advice! Small dirt can be easily removed from the tile with a regular eraser or alcohol.
If traces of sudden flooding by neighbors appear on the ceiling, they should be eliminated immediately. Otherwise, after the tiles have dried, rust spots will remain on the surface that cannot be removed.
Tiles with a pronounced textured pattern should be cleaned with a soft sponge dipped in washing solution. After wet cleaning, it is necessary to wipe the tiles dry using paper towels, as the remaining wet stains will spoil the appearance of the ceiling.
Gluing tiles to the ceiling is an easy enough task that even a beginner can easily handle. The main task is a thorough cleaning of the surface, the correct marking of the ceiling, the choice of high-quality glue and finishing material. Further, having studied the question of how to properly glue tiles on the ceiling, you can create a unique surface that will harmoniously fit into overall design premises.
How to glue ceiling tiles with your own hands. Video instruction
One of important details quality repair- beautiful and smooth ceiling. Some are limited to whitewashing, others acquire stretch options. One of the popular ways is to glue the ceiling tiles. How to carry out the installation so that the material holds firmly and decorates the room? Compilation useful tips presented in this article.
Material characteristic
Ceiling tiles are finishing material from foam. Usually sold in squares, but there are also rectangular designs. The most common size is 0.5 × 0.5 m. The front side can be smooth and embossed, laminated or without any coating. Tile decor can imitate wood, fabric, ceramics, stucco and other structures.
There are three types of finishing material:
- injection is obtained by sintering and casting polystyrene foam in special forms;
- extruded is pressed from an extruded strip, usually film-coated or painted;
- pressed is made by pressing.
There is a so-called seamless tile. Its advantage is that at the end of the work, the joints are completely invisible. Usually they have a figured edge: when glued, the wavy joints on the ceiling become invisible. Installation of such a coating is carried out with an accuracy of a millimeter and only on a flat surface.
Ceiling tiles are a quick and inexpensive way to decorate a room. When the ceiling is designed in this way, it is called "pasted" or "glue".
Advantages and disadvantages
Why Choose Styrofoam Ceiling Tiles? Material advantages:
- It is environmentally friendly.
- One of the main advantages is accessibility. Expanded polystyrene tiles are inexpensive and are a common material.
- A wide range of reliefs allows you to choose an option for any interior.
- Suitable for finishing most base surfaces: concrete, brick, wood, plaster and gypsum.
- It has soundproof properties.
- Helps keep the room warm.
- Easily and quickly installed by hand.
- Allows you to easily correct the result after a while (for example, re-glue a detached part).
- Aesthetic look.
- Helps to hide minor ceiling defects (potholes, cracks).
- The material is not combustible, so it can be glued near heating systems.
- It is easy to care for such material: it can be cleaned, wiped with a damp cloth. If the coating is not laminated, then it is cleaned with a soft nozzle of a vacuum cleaner or a dry cloth.
The material also has a number of disadvantages:
- It melts at temperatures above +80 degrees, so the lamps should not be located closer than 30 cm.
- Turns yellow over time from sunlight.
- Some coatings do not tolerate moisture well.
- On uneven ceiling it is difficult to achieve uniformity due to the abundance of joints.
- Poorly passes air, which makes the room more stuffy.
- Fragility: thin sheets easy to deform and damage until they are fixed on the ceiling.
What to glue
To keep the finishing material for a long time, you need to choose a good adhesive for ceiling tiles. The final result and durability of the coating largely depends on the choice.
What to glue polystyrene squares on:
- "Moment"- one of the frequently used compounds. Its advantage is that it dries very quickly, which justifies its name. It is enough to press the tile to the ceiling for a few seconds. Of the minuses, it is worth noting the high cost and high consumption.
- - universal glue on the basis of polymers. It is used for gluing tiles, ceiling plinth and other materials: linoleum, parquet, etc. After drying, it remains transparent, which ensures the preservation of the aesthetic appearance of the coating. It grabs longer than the “Moment”, so you have to hold the tile longer, which is not always convenient.
- "Eco-naset"- glue similar to "Titan". Plus - when working, you can adjust the position of the tile. The minus, like that of Titan, is a relatively long polymerization.
How to properly install
What items will be needed for a successful installation:
- stepladder (or high stable table);
- glue gun;
- stationery knife;
- ruler (roulette);
- pencil;
- putty knife;
- brushes;
- twine;
- rags for wiping;
- protective gloves and mask;
- glue and tiles.
Preparation:
- First, make sure that each of the tiles is free of dirt.
- Sheets with bent edges and other defects are not used. For this reason, you should buy material with a small margin. A defect can be detected when unpacking the pack, but even during the installation process, the material is easily damaged by careless handling. It is recommended to purchase a ceiling finish 10% more than necessary.
- Before starting repairs, it is better to take out all the furniture from the room. If this is not possible, then large plastic bags will come to the rescue, with which it is worth covering objects.
- Close the vents, windows and doors - ceiling tiles must be glued strictly when room temperature and without drafts.
- Be sure to turn off the power supply in the room.
- Make a draft drawing on a piece of paper to better navigate the number of tiles needed and its location on the ceiling.
Ground preparation is one of milestones. The surface must be clean and as even as possible. It is recommended to clean the ceiling from old finishes - plaster, whitewash, etc. A spatula will help clean the ceiling. Then, if necessary, re-plaster or putty and cover with a primer. Tiles will hide minor defects, but it is better to eliminate noticeable irregularities.
Advice! Washing off whitewash and primer to concrete is a difficult and long process, and also very dirty. When using glue with good adhesion, it is allowed to wash off only whitewash.
The main ways to install the ceiling plate:
- parallel to the walls - the most convenient;
- diagonally looks very nice, but it will take more material and time to finish the edge of the ceiling (it will lie in triangles or incomplete squares).
How to glue ceiling tiles correctly:
- The first stage is the marking of the ceiling. Squares are glued from the center to the edges. How to quickly determine the middle of the ceiling? Stretch two strings diagonally from the corners. The point of their intersection is the center. She needs to be noted. Further through the point, two perpendicular lines are drawn, which will divide the ceiling into 4 parts. Along these lines, tiles will be attached. To be sure, you can mark the entire ceiling, drawing the place of each detail of the coating.
- The glue is applied to the sheets in a thin layer or dotted with a special gun. The lighter the weight of the material, the less glue is needed to attach it. Pay special attention to the edges and middle.
- The first tile is pressed to the center of the ceiling, guided by the markup. Arrange the first four squares. Their corners should touch at one point, the central one.
- Next, you need to stick other panels, focusing on the layout and position of the previous parts. All joints must be tight, without gaps.
- Remember to remove excess glue with a damp sponge or cloth.
- Tiles placed against the wall are cut to size with a sharp knife, such as a shoe or wallpaper knife, along an iron ruler or square. Cut out first desired part and only then glue is applied.
What to do if the ceiling is uneven? In this case, gaps form between the tiles. The easiest way to wipe the seams is with white acrylic sealant. After grouting, the excess is removed with a damp sponge.
Advice! If the tile covers the fixture for the chandelier, then make a suitable hole in advance, insert the wires into it and stick the tile. Remember to turn off the electricity before this operation.
Finishing the ceiling is completed by gluing the ceiling plinth. The adhesive for this material is the same as for tiles. One condition: the composition must be transparent after drying. Otherwise, in case of accidental contact with front side it will ruin the look.
A few rules for fixing skirting boards:
- Start on the opposite wall from the door.
- The eaves in the corners are cut at an angle of 45 degrees.
- Glue is applied on both sides: one is in contact with the ceiling, the other is in contact with the wall.
- Gaps and joints in the corners are perfectly masked if they are covered with sealant.
In order for the repair to succeed, you need to take into account many points that not everyone can immediately remember. What you should know about ceiling tiles:
- After purchase and transport, allow the panels to rest at room temperature to avoid deformation during operation.
- Soft tiles at the time of gluing will be properly held with a wooden block. When pressed with fingers, the material is deformed.
- Sometimes tile sizes don't match. This is imperceptible to the naked eye, but appears during the installation process. To avoid inconsistencies in the pattern, attach a square that is not smeared with glue to the glued tile. If the size matches, then the installation continues. If it does not match, you will either have to leave a gap, which will later need to be rubbed with sealant, or (preferably) take another sheet.
- Don't press the styrofoam too hard. This will not speed up the setting of the adhesive, but may leave dents.
Pasting the ceiling is a critical part of the repair. Successful completion of finishing is possible only if right choice adhesive, accurate calculations and accuracy during installation.
In this article, we will tell and show in detail how to properly glue ceiling tiles, what types of them are available for sale and show photos of real work.
Ceiling tile advantage
Of the variety of materials for finishing the ceiling, polystyrene foam ceiling tiles occupies a leading position. It was brought to the favorites by cheapness and ease of operation.
But there are other nuances. Finishing the ceiling with foam tiles:
- Increases the thermal insulation of the room;
- Reduces noise level;
- Changes the appearance of the room;
Behind simple phrases about warming, in fact, there is a deep subtext. Warm air rises and heats the floor slab. The thickness of the tiles varies from 8 to 14 mm. Its thermal conductivity is at least 25 times worse than that of concrete. Consequently, with properly carried out work, 25 cm of concrete is added to the thermal insulation of the room in the most vulnerable place.
Sound insulation is limited only by impact noise, but nevertheless, the sound absorption of expanded polystyrene is 7 times better than that of concrete.
The appearance of the room is highly dependent on the surface of the ceiling. The reason for this lies in the specifics of human vision. The sector above eye level, he surveys 17% more than the one below. Therefore, the ceiling immediately "strikes" at the entrance to the room.
And all this pleasure can be obtained at a price of 50 r / m 2.
Types of styrofoam ceiling tiles
Despite the fact that it is made from polystyrene foam, the raw material itself can be prepared different ways, and the process of making tiles is also different. This variability allows us to divide the ceiling tiles into three main groups:
- stamped;
- Injection;
- extruded.
They differ in appearance only upon close examination. If you carefully stick the ceiling tiles, and then hold correct handling then no one will notice the difference.
- The stamped tile is made of coarse-grained polyfoam, by a pressing method. It is the cheapest, its thickness is 6-8 mm. Extrusion occurs without heating, which leads to increased brittleness.
However, she can quickly tidy up the ceiling in the garage or in the country. It's cheap and looks much better.
- Injection tiles are made by pressing, but in this case polystyrene foam is used of a higher quality. The initial raw material is fine-grained, it has a higher density. Pressing takes place with little heat. It informs finished products special smoothness, and graininess is noticeable only at a break. The edges are even, without rounding and burrs. Thickness 9-14 mm.
Injection tiles can be painted. And on the "Lux" varieties, a polymer protective film is applied.
From this kind foam tiles, create a "seamless coating".
- Extruded tiles are made from polystyrene. That is, this raw material did not even foam. Accordingly, the production process is carried out by the melt extrusion method. The resulting product has a thickness of 2.5-3.5 mm. This tile is the most durable and smooth. When broken, it deforms, with the appearance of a fold line. Color variations are possible.
Heat and sound insulation of such products is an order of magnitude lower. In fact, it should be called polystyrene tiles, not foam.
The lion's share of square-shaped foam tiles, size 0.5 x 0.5 or 0.3 x 0.3 m. Much less often you can find rectangular or hexagonal specimens. There are also tiles with curly edges.
The texture and pattern on each element can be absolutely any. But there are curious models with a 3D effect. By manipulating the depth, size, shape and color of the pattern, manufacturers are trying to give the finished coating a special three-dimensional perception of the entire surface. With the skillful use of lighting and the correct orientation of each element, you can give ceiling covering futuristic design.
Which glue is better
The ceiling tile has one flaw - it is afraid of solvents, which include acetone and toluene. Therefore, only water-based adhesives are suitable for working with it. It can be PVA or Bustilat.
You can do this work better with the help of silicone or acrylic sealant.
The ideal option is glue " Liquid Nail” or “Moment Mounting”. They are available in a convenient tube that allows you to dose the required amount of glue. But their main advantage is the high adhesive properties of the adhesive composition. When working with such compositions, it is enough to attach the element with the applied glue to the ceiling and press it for 5-10 seconds.
Ceiling preparation
The only condition is the dedusting of the surface. This can be achieved in two ways.
- Complete cleaning. This radical way, but the quality of fixation is incommensurably better.
Depending on what was the coating on the ceiling, the preparation is carried out according to different scenarios. Whitewash, carefully sprayed warm water from a spray bottle, wait 10-15 minutes, and then remove it with a wide spatula. With a scrupulous approach, the whitewash will fall off in layers. After that, the surface is sprayed again with water and the remnants of whitewash are washed off with a brush.
If there were wallpapers on the ceiling, then they are also treated with warm water from a spray bottle, but the water consumption will be greater. Wallpaper needs to be soaked. After waiting 10 minutes, the paper material is carefully removed.
After drying, the clean surface must be primed.
- Regardless of how the ceiling is decorated, a deep penetration primer is applied to its surface. This is for the lazy ones. Reliability adhesive bond will be somewhat worse, the process is much cleaner.
TIP: in order not to dilute the dirt, spread the "Covering film" in the room. Fix it with masking tape to the wall, at a height of 50 cm. Thus, a kind of trough will be formed, where all the garbage will collect.
Tile preparation
Extruded tiles do not require any preparation. But with injection and stamped proceed as follows.
Regardless, work will take place in the summer or in the winter, but expanded polystyrene has the ability to be saturated with air moisture, while slightly changing its geometric dimensions. The changes are very small, but after gluing, small gaps may appear at the junctions of the mosaic elements.
Therefore, the tile must be kept at room temperature for 2-3 days. During this period, the working material will acquire the humidity of the room where it will be located.
Gluing and marking options
There are three options in total:
- Straight;
- Diagonal;
- Art.
At the same time, if you organize sticking with a run, then this gives a special zest.
Each of these methods, in order to create the integrity of the composition, requires special planning.
- Straight. IN this option placement of elements, work starts from the most visible wall. That is, if there is a closet along one of the walls, but in this place the pasting should end. Because this is where the cut tiles will most likely be located. Therefore, it should start from the opposite wall.
This option has some limitations. In particular, if the walls in the room have differences in linear dimensions by more than 4-5 cm, then the direct pasting method can only be performed with tiles with a small, kaleidoscopic pattern. With the obligatory formation of a "seamless coating".
The reason for this is that the long, straight lines on the ceiling will dramatically accentuate the curvature of the walls. This will be especially pronounced in places adjacent to a curved vertical plane.
If the run-up in the linear dimensions of the walls is less than 4-5 cm, then this flaw can be hidden with a wide ceiling plinth.
- diagonal way. In this case, the fixation of the elements starts from the geometric center of the room. But depending on whether the room is square or rectangular, the markup is carried out in different ways.
In a square room, alternately stretch the paint cord in two diagonals, and mark two lines. At the point of their intersection, 4 corners of four tiles should be connected. In the future, gluing will be carried out from orientations to the marked lines.
If the room is rectangular, then through this center, it is required to draw two more diagonal lines, but in such a way that the ends of the diagonals fall on the corners of a virtual square, with a side length equal to the length of the short wall of the room. Only with this marking, square tiles can be correctly laid in a rectangular room.
- The artistic method does not offer any specific markup. It is created depending on the intended pattern.
In this case, the tiles can be glued in a spiral, or elements of different colors and shades can be combined in a mosaic pattern.
TIP: very often, the geometric center of the room does not match the wiring outlet for the central chandelier. This defect is corrected in the following way. In the ceiling slab, a groove is made with a depth of 2-3 mm, to the center of the room. The wiring is laid in it and fixed there with reinforced tape.
How to glue tiles
For work you will need:
- Ladder;
- Liquid nails and gun;
- Construction knife;
- Roulette and pencil;
- Masking tape.
The work can be done alone, but in order not to go down for each tile, fasten a large bag to the top of the stepladder, where you place everything you need.
Glue is applied to the tile in small dots, the size of a ruble coin. One in the center + 4 in the corners. Putting the smeared tile in place, move it a little, and then press firmly for 10-15 seconds.
At the exit point of the wires for the chandelier, you should not pre-cut a hole. Glue the whole tile, but slightly break the corners to bring the wires out. Subsequently, there will be a clamping cap of the lamp, or a socket. And this will hide the uneven edges of the hole.
The tile near the wall is cut with a construction knife, having previously determined the place of the cut. To keep the edge clean, hold the knife under acute angle and place the tile on a flat surface.
The time for complete drying of the glue is indicated on the package. Usually it is 24 hours.
After, you can glue the ceiling plinth with the same glue. Please note that the plinth is glued only to the wall. They press him to the ceiling.
Coloring
For stamped ceiling tiles, this procedure is essential. The fact is that the porous surface of such tiles very easily accumulates dust. Six months later, even in very clean rooms, upon closer inspection, dust deposits can be seen. They manifest themselves as dark patches in the patterns of each element. It is almost impossible to remove contaminants from polystyrene foam. Especially when you consider that this is a rather fragile material.
You can prevent such a scenario of events by applying silicone varnish to the surface of the tile. It is a water-soluble composition that, after drying, forms an elastic and water-repellent coating.
After this treatment, the surface can be subjected to wet cleaning.
