Currently, there are several types: a machine for sharpening knives, a machine for a hairdressing machine, and others. This article talks about how to make a machine for sharpening knives at home: detailed drawings with dimensions, photos and videos (2-3 videos) are presented.

Often, when sharpening knives at home, household members use abrasive whetstones. However, in order to use them in practice, you need the necessary skills and experience working with them. After all, if the knife is sharpened at the wrong angle, the blade remains dull.

Layout of the block to the blade.

Before actually manufacturing the machine, you need to listen to the advice of sharpeners.

When sharpening a knife, the master performs the following actions:

Defines the angle between the working area of ​​the blade and the block. Moreover, for each model the angles are different;

The knife is located at an angle of 90 degrees to the direction of the block. The grooves that are formed when the razor blade of the knife rubs against the block should be at 90 degrees to the knife line. The angle in such a situation is equal to half the sharpening;

Typically the angle is 25 degrees;

The mechanic begins processing from the beginning of the foot blade;

When adjusting the sharpening angle, the master paints over part of the foot blade with any marker. As a result, the mechanic directly controls the work area.

As a rule, after sharpening the working blade has non-uniform deformations. Therefore, when processing independently, the “point of reference” should not be the sharp part of the knife.

Choosing whetstones for sharpening a knife

The main indicator of a block is its grain size.

The whetstone is the main component that makes the blade thin and sharp. As a result, before choosing a design, you need to select the necessary blocks.

When sharpening knives on their own, household members use these types of whetstones

which have a high grain size. Using such bars, the shape of the leg blade is corrected.

having medium grain size. With the help of such bars, the mechanic removes the grooves that are formed during the initial processing of the knife

whetstone, which is covered with GOM paste. In such a situation, the mechanic polishes the blade.

When processing knives for the kitchen, you can use two types - with medium and high grain. And also in this case it is necessary to use a touchstone.

Base

When making a sharpening machine at home, you can use various parts. In particular, you can use laminated box plywood 12 mm thick, which was previously used to create radio equipment housings.

When constructing a machine at home, a household member performs the following actions:

Selects a base for such an installation, which must weigh at least 5 kg. Otherwise, it will be impossible to sharpen chopping devices and tools on the machine. Therefore, in the manufacture of such equipment, the tenant uses various steel angles measuring 20x20 mm;

Next, 2 parts are cut out of plywood with a jigsaw, which have a trapezoidal shape, the base is 170 by 60 mm, and the height is 230 mm. When cutting, the mechanic makes an allowance of 0.7 mm for sharpening the ends: they end up straight and fit according to the markings;

Installs 3 parts between the inclined walls on the sides - an inclined surface made of plywood with dimensions of 230 x 150 mm.

In such a situation, the trapezoidal sides are located laterally on a rectangular surface.

The result is a base - a wedge. In such a situation, a protrusion of an inclined surface measuring 40 mm is formed in the front part;

Then, along the side wall ends, the mechanic marks 2 lines with a thicknesser. At the same time, it retreats by half the thickness of the plywood;

Drills the ends of the inclined surface and connects the base parts for a while;

At the back of the structure, the mechanic connects the side walls using a 60x60 mm block, which is attached to the end with two screws on both sides; - makes a 10 mm gap in the block.

In such a situation, it retreats 50 mm from the center - 25 mm from the edge. To maintain a vertical position, first drill with a thin drill from 2 edges, and then expand;

Then, at the top and bottom, two threaded fittings are screwed into the slot, and in the fittings - a 10 mm pin, the length of which is 250 mm.

If the threads do not match the studs, the lower fitting is adjusted.

Tool support device

When making a handhold device, the following steps are performed:

Removes the flat inclined part from the base, modifies it and installs a fixation device on it, as well as the clamp of the device used;

Measures 40 mm from the edge in front and, using a garden hacksaw, uses this mark to cut out a groove, the depth of which is 2 mm;

Using a shoemaker's knife, chip off the top 2 veneer layers from the end of the board. The result is a sample into which the mechanic inserts a 2 mm steel plate at the same level as the general surface;

The tool rest consists of 2 steel strips measuring 170x60 mm and 150x40 mm. The machine operator connects them along the large end, which has equal edge indentations, and makes 3 through slots of 6 mm.

Using bolts, tighten the planks along the cracks made. In such a situation, the machine operator leaves the bolt heads on the side of the large top plate;

Then he removes metal defects of the weld in the form of beads and grinds the plate until it becomes flat surface;

Applies a small striker plate to the edge recess, moves the slots with a drill and secures the support with bolts.

Fixation device

Second important detail The tool rest is considered to be a clamping bar. It can be made from 2 parts.

L-shaped plank measuring 150x180 mm, the width of the shelves is 50 mm (top);

A rectangle-shaped strike plate measuring 50x100 mm (bottom).

When making a clamping bar, the machine operator performs the following actions:

Sets the bottom bar to far edge top;

Makes 2 holes in the center and retreats 25 mm from the edges of the part, connects the parts through the holes with two 8 mm bolts;

Screws in 8 mm bolts on 2 sides. In such a situation, the head of the nearest bolt is located near the top bar;

Welds the bolt heads to the plates and grinds them in advance until roundness is formed;

Yes, the inclined board retreats 40 mm from the edge and draws a line with a thicknesser;

Makes one 8 mm 25 mm gap at the bottom and top edges;

Using markings, he connects the edges of the slots and uses a jigsaw to make a cut with an allowance. Use a file to expand the groove to a width of 8.5 mm;

It fastens the planks using a groove that is in the board; the top bolt is tightened with a nut and thus firmly fastens the plank.

Then tightens connection 2 with nut;

When pressing the bottom bar (in the niche of the base), screw a wing nut onto the second bolt.

Sharpening angle control

When adjusting the sharpening angle, the mechanic performs the following actions:

On the pin, which is located in the block of the machine base, throws big puck and tightens the nut.

The rod does not rotate in the foot; the block for adjusting the sharpening angle is made from a small carbolite block, the dimensions of which are 20x40x80 mm.

15 mm from the block edge, drill a 20 mm end on both sides, widen the gap to 9 mm, then make a thread inside;

He steps back 50 mm from the axis of the new slot and drills another one in the flat part of the workpiece - 90 degrees to the previous one. Such a slot has a diameter of 14 mm. In such a situation, the mechanic strongly flares the hole using a round rasp;

Screws the block onto the pin - sets the desired height of the eye without using fixing screws;

Secures the block on both sides with M10 hex nuts.

Using replaceable blocks and making a carriage

When making a sharpening carriage, the machine operator performs the following actions:

Welds 30 cm M10 threaded rods with a smooth rod whose thickness is 10 mm;

Uses 2 solid bars 50x80 mm and the thickness is 20 mm. In all blocks, in the center and on top, 20 mm is retreated from the edge, and then a gap is made 10 mm wide;

Screws a wing nut onto the rod, then a large washer and 2 bars, then a nut and washer;

Clamps rectangular sharpening stones between the stones or makes several replaceable sharpening stones.

As a timber base, the machine operator uses a rectangular tube from a profile or a piece of cornice, the width of which is 50 mm;

He sands the flat machine part and cleans it of grease, and glues strips of sandpaper with a grain size of up to 1200 grit using Super Moment glue.

The sandpaper should have a fabric base, and on 1 of the blocks you need to glue a strip of suede to apply polish to the blades.

Simple homemade machine

The most common type of machine design is considered to be 2 pairs of wooden slats, which are fastened together with screws. The machine operator installs a block between such parts.

The main reason for the popularity of usemanual homemade machine for sharpening various knives is its stability. During operation, the machine structure does not move in any way on the workbench.

When fixing the block, the mechanic uses support strips that are located between the wooden elements.

However, such a homemade machine has the following disadvantages:

The master positions the blade to the stone manually. When working for a long time, it is difficult to keep track of the sharpening angle;

When making such an installation, it is necessary to use a fixing unit. The machine structure must be stable, so it must be firmly mounted on the workbench;

During the work, the ties loosen and the location of the block changes.

Another advantage of such a scheme is ease of manufacture. This machine design is most often used when sharpening knives for jointers and for the kitchen.

Wood slats can be of different thicknesses. When making a simple sharpening machine yourself, you can use various available components.

When first studying all the nuances of manufacturing, you need to watch thematic videos that describe in detail how to make a machine at home.

Electric grinders, or, as people say, emery stones, are collected in a great variety from everything that falls to hand; they are often made from motors from washing machines.

I also decided to make myself a homemade machine for sharpening drills, knives, etc. I have a Chinese sharpener, but its quality 😥 well, you understand...

Making such a machine turned out to be one of the easiest things to do :)

Because:

• I had an extra engine with 1370 rpm and 370 watts.
• I didn’t order an attachment for placing a grindstone on the shaft from a turner, such attachments are sold on our market - just know the diameter of the motor shaft and you can purchase the attachment for only 250 rubles + 200 rubles. for the whetstone.

Making a sharpening machine with your own hands step 1

I installed an electrical box on the engine, placed a capacitor in it to start the engine, a toggle switch - a switch and a power supply for the lamp.

I used a toggle switch from a Soviet tube TV - it turns out to be a reliable thing; first I installed a modern, beautiful Chinese toggle switch - when using it, the machine “stuttered” (worked with some jerks), and replacing the toggle switch with another of the same brand did not help until I installed a Soviet toggle switch.

Out of curiosity, I later installed these Chinese toggle switches on another engine, which also began to “stutter”, it’s a shame, I paid 100 rubles for 2 toggle switches. - I just threw money away...

Well, with the capacitor - everything is standard, I won’t describe 101 times how to connect a three-phase motor to 220V - it’s easy to find on Google, or in our article on.

Backlight for sharpening machine step 2

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For illumination I used an unnecessary LED table lamp from IKEA, bought for home, but was not useful anywhere, the lamp is powered from the mains through an adapter, which I ripped out and hid its board in a box on the motor.

Tool rest for lathe step 3

To attach the tool rest, I used a furniture corner sharpened at the desired angle, then I attached a piece of 32x32 corner to it, in which I sawed a groove and installed a tool rest on it from a piece of 4 mm steel. The tool rest is fastened with a countersunk screw; thanks to the groove in the corner under the tool rest, the tool rest can be moved closer or further from the grindstone. The corner is also attached to the casing with a screw, which allows you to adjust the angle of the tool rest relative to the whetstone.

From a furniture hanger I made a corner for attaching protective glass; for this I used a piece of plexiglass 6 mm thick.

The sharpening stone I used was 200x20 mm gray - I like these ones better for their hardness, the white ones crumble a lot. I know about marking stones, but I don't do it professional processing steel, so that it takes a long time to select a stone according to parameters.

When installing the stone, I placed two cardboard washers, as required, so that when tightening the nuts, the whetstone would not burst.

About the safety of a homemade sharpening machine

We read the theory - we know...

The casing of my emery machine is not closed on one side - for safety reasons this is not possible, the casing should cover the stone as much as possible, but I decided for myself that sometimes it is convenient for me to sharpen something on the side of the stone, although this is not recommended. And in general, I usually finish my machines gradually, I think in the future, when I want, I will still make a cover for the casing so that it covers the sharpening stone on all sides.

But my machine also has safety advantages:

• the protective glass on Chinese machines is much thinner than I used;
• The machine speed is 1380 rpm, although the whetstone is designed for 3000 rpm. per minute This means my stone will have a very small chance of breaking.

What did I get

• I received an excellent homemade machine for sharpening drills, knives and other tools, the machine has enough power even for sharpening axes - tested;
• The machine speed is low, the sandpaper sharpens better at 3000 revolutions, but mine works quietly and persistently, I would say :)

Recommendation for choosing a motor for a homemade grinding machine

The engine is taken depending on your needs, if you are going to use it to sharpen only awls, small knives, etc., then an engine from washing machine from the USSR. Such engines usually have 1380 rpm. per minute and 180-250 watts of power. Now there are motors from modern automatic washing machines, but they are more difficult to connect - you need a special board, but you can regulate the speed on them.

For more confident work, it is better to take a 400W engine and 1380-3000 rpm. Such a sharpener will be a good help in the workshop.

But if you want to work with large parts, sharpen crowbars, for example :), then you need to use a motor of about 750 W or more and 3000 rpm.

Photo of self-made emery:

Often, ordinary abrasive stones are used to sharpen knives at home. But their use requires special practice, since if the angle for sharpening is incorrect, the result will be disastrous. The blade will not have proper sharpness, which will require additional processing.

Rules for sharpening knives

Layout of the bar relative to the blade

Before you start making homemade device To sharpen knives, you need to familiarize yourself with the recommendations of specialists. At the first stage, it is necessary to determine the angle between the working part of the blade and the block. This can be done individually for each model.

The knife should be positioned strictly perpendicular to the direction of the block. The angle in this case can be equal to half the sharpening. This is due to the fact that during processing, grooves are formed on the surface of the blade. They appear due to exposure to abrasive components. With minimal tool grit, they will be negligible. But there will also be a small degree of impact on the knife.

In addition to this factor, when sharpening a knife with your own hands, you should consider:

• the average sharpening angle is 20-25 degrees;
• processing is performed from the beginning of the blade;
• To control the sharpening angle, you can paint over part of the blade with a marker. In this way, the actual area of ​​influence can be controlled.

It should be remembered that the deformation along the entire length of the working blade will be non-uniform. Therefore, when sharpening with your own hands, the “point of reference” should be the bluntest part of the knife.

The grooves formed due to the impact of the bar must be strictly perpendicular to the line of the knife. This is the main condition for proper sharpening.

Selecting whetstones for sharpening knives

Knife sharpening stones

The main component of a homemade sharpening machine will be a block. This is an abrasive material that, when applied to the blade, thins it, increasing its sharpness. Therefore, before choosing a design, you should choose the right bars.

The main indicator of the bar is the grain size, but the dimensions should also be taken into account. Ideally, the length of the tool should be no less than the length of the knife. This will ensure uniform processing and reduce the likelihood of defects.

To sharpen knives with your own hands, you will need the following types of whetstones:

• high grain size. With their help, primary processing occurs, the shape of the blade is corrected;
• medium grit. They are designed to remove grooves formed during the first operation;
• whetstone or leather belt rubbed with GOM paste. This stage is called polishing or finishing the blade.

The main task of drawing up a design diagram is correct location bars. Therefore, we will consider several options for fixing them relative to the knife blade.

To sharpen ordinary kitchen knives, two types of whetstones will be sufficient - with high and medium grit. In addition to them you will need a touchstone.

A simple version of the machine

Simple knife sharpening machine

The simplest version of the machine design consists of two pairs wooden slats, connected to each other using adjustable screws. A block is attached between these components.

The main condition for the manufacture of this structure is stability. While working, it should not change its location on the desktop. For better fixation of the beam, it is recommended to provide support strips located between the wooden components.

Despite the ease of making it yourself, this machine has a number of disadvantages:

• the blade is manually adjusted relative to the stone. During long-term work, it is not always possible to control the sharpening angle;
• an additional fixation unit will be required. Since the structure must be stable, it must be firmly fixed on the desktop;
• During operation, the ties may loosen, thereby changing the location of the bar.

The main advantage of this scheme is its ease of manufacture. The design is suitable for sharpening kitchen knives at home. Touchstone will be required as additional components.

The thickness of the wooden slats may vary. In fact, to make such a structure yourself, you can use any available materials.

Manual sharpening machine with whetstone adjustment

Sharpening machine with the ability to adjust the position of the whetstone

To achieve the best result, it is recommended to take drawings of factory tool models as a basis. Their difference from the instructions described above lies in the rigid fixation of the knife, but this will require great effort to manufacture.

The design consists of a support table on which the knife blade is mounted. A screw stand is installed in a vertical position. A bar with a slot is attached to it. The whetstone is mounted on a guide rod. The sharpening angle is changed by moving the slotted bar along the screw post.

Features of operating a machine of this type:

• The sharpening angle is set with high precision. Its change depends on the thread pitch of the rack;
• Instead of a block, you can use sandpaper. For this purpose, a base is made of plexiglass. A hole is made along it for installation on the guide rod. Sandpaper is glued to the surface of the plexiglass;
• It is best to make the supporting base wide. This will make it possible to secure it with clamps on any tabletop.

The main problem with using this design is the long adjustment of the sharpening angle. This may affect the speed of work completion if several types of knives are processed. Each of them requires a long setup of the machine.

To increase the quality, you can use water or oil. They are applied to the abrasive surface, thereby reducing the impact of chipped stone particles on the blade.

Sharpening machine with adjustable knife position

An alternative knife sharpening machine

An alternative option for manufacturing the machine is to change the position of the knife relative to the stone. In general, the design is in many ways similar to that described above, but much simpler to manufacture.

A movable fastening block for a pin with a stone is installed on the base. Two clamps are mounted on the same plane. One of them will be persistent, and the second will be adjustable. By changing the distances between the clamps you can adjust the sharpening angle.

The main disadvantage of this design is the wear of the bar in one place. To solve this problem, it is recommended to make a long pin to adjust the position of the edge relative to the blade.

In addition to the schemes described above, there are a lot of sharpening machines that you can make yourself. When choosing the optimal model, you should proceed from the actual availability of available materials. It is also recommended to analyze factory machines. Often they are the basis for the manufacture of a unique design.

To get acquainted with the manufacturing features, it is recommended to watch thematic video material, which describes in detail a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands:

DIY knife sharpener drawings. Lansky knife sharpener drawing. How to make a Lansky knife sharpener. I needed a sharpener to sharpen knives. Mainly out of curiosity, what kind of animal it is and what to eat it with. I can sharpen any knife with my hands, but the convenience and necessity of what kind of device in the household should be clarified. After searching the Internet, I found several suitable designs. The simplest and most famous of all was the LANSKY knife sharpener. Anyone can sharpen a knife using such a device without any special knowledge or skills. It is enough to understand the principle, but it is elementary and any knife will be razor sharp.

As it turns out, the Lansky sharpener is quite expensive. 1400 rubles minimum for a basic set of a clamp, three stones and a jar of oil. The photo is presented below.

Damn greed: They ask for a lot of money for a sharpener, and there are three pieces of iron bent on the knees, two screws, and several stones. The hucksters are real.  Additional sharpening stones can be purchased separately, but not yet.

It seems like you need a sharpener, but you really don’t want to pay money for it. Therefore, you need to do it yourself. I carefully examined the design of the Lansky sharpener and came to the conclusion that there are no problems making such a piece of iron at home from scrap materials.

The principle of operation of the sharpener is very simple and can be seen in the picture. By progressive movements of the sharpening stone we form a smooth cutting edge on the blade of a knife fixed in the jaws of a special clamp. Consistently changing sharpening stones with coarse grain to fine and very fine, we bring the knife to razor sharpness. Movement of the stone

By rearranging the guide from the sharpening stone in the holes in the terminals, you can obtain several strict sharpening angles on the cutting edge. But since the cutting edge of the knife can be fixed at different distances from the clamp jaws, the sharpening angles float. And they are, in fact, close to necessary. This, in turn, affects the cut of the knife, but only slightly so that the user does not notice the difference, so you can close your eyes to the floating angle.

After rummaging through the Internet, I found drawings of clamping jaws. I redrew it into a form more convenient to read and converted all the dimensions into millimeters, since the Lansky sharpener is made in the USA, and there, as you know, they use the inch, not the metric, system. It's quite simple.

I drew in detail my own design of a clamp for a whetstone on the computer. And I detailed the details. This design has a number of advantages. Sharpening stones can be of different lengths; a stone can work alternately on four sides, and not on one like Lansky’s branded stones, which affects the sharpening time. The greasy side of the whetstone can be quickly replaced with a clean one, but the Lansky stones will have to be cleaned.

I bought a pin with an M6 thread in a store, this pleasure cost 20 rubles for a meter rod, I sawed off a 160 mm long pin with a hacksaw and processed the ends with a file, removing the burrs.

I made a guide from an electrode for manual electric welding, asked it at the welding shop, and they gave me several pieces without any problems. You can also buy electrodes on the construction market, they are sold individually, they cost mere pennies, they cost 3-5 rubles per piece. The brand of electrode is not important, the main thing is a straight, elastic, smooth and thin cylinder. I hammered on the flux and lightly cleaned it with sandpaper, removing burrs and flux residues. I bent it into an L shape using pliers and sawed off the excess with a hacksaw, according to the drawing.

Taking advantage of his official position, he ran to the machine shop, rummaged through a box with scraps of metal, fortunately there were a lot of scraps, and found suitable pieces of iron, made of some kind of raw carbon steel, type steel 3. I sawed it to size with a hacksaw for metal, processed the burrs with a file, and Marked the centers of the holes. Using a drill press, I drilled holes in the clamps and then cut the threads with a hand tap, not forgetting to add a drop of machine oil to the hole to reduce friction. I cut out the steps on the clamps with a hacksaw and adjusted them with a file, after which I sanded the surfaces of the clamps with sandpaper.

I washed the glands in soapy water, thereby getting rid of any remaining oil and chips on the threads, dried them and heated them over a flame. gas stove, buried in liquid machine oil. For this event I used a “fishing rod” made from an electrode for manual welding and a piece of steel wire found in wire supplies. The "bait" was clamps. Each part was blued separately. I cleaned the threads of any remaining oil using a long bolt and thoroughly washed the finished parts in a soapy solution.

I twisted the clamps and the hairpin together, according to the drawing, not forgetting to drop a drop of nail polish (he stole the bottle from my wife) into the connection of the left clamp and the hairpin. To prevent the pin from unwinding spontaneously and to eliminate backlash. After the varnish had dried, I inserted the stone between the clamps, carefully tightened the nut and aligned the guide pin with the bottom plane of the stone.

At a nearby construction site I found a piece of a regular metal corner with a shelf width of 90 mm and a thickness of 6 mm. However, such iron can be purchased on the construction market or found at the nearest construction site. If you ask politely, they will cut the blanks to size for a small fee or “liquid” currency. This kind of stuff is also available in bulk at construction waste dumps; at scrap metal collection points you can ask for a small amount of money, that is, finding suitable blanks is not a problem.

I redrawn the original dimensions of the Lansky sharpener for a corner 90x90x6 mm. Since I already had an M6 tap at my disposal, I replaced the thread in original clamp Lansky on M6 thread for his sharpener. The uniformity of fastener sizes reduces the cost of production of the structure. In addition, there were small stocks of M6 screws for an internal hexagon of a suitable size.

And I drew the entire assembled structure and drew a detailed 3D model of the sharpener on the computer. This is what happened

Having filed the corners with a grinder, I processed the cuts with a file to remove burrs and cleaned the surfaces of paint. wire brush and sandpaper. I leveled the planes from unevenness with a file and placed sandpaper on a piece of chipboard to create an ideal plane. I marked and drilled holes in the horizontal shelves according to the drawing. Using a grinder and a file, I ground down the bevels on the jaws so as not to interfere with the movement of the whetstone. I carefully sanded the scratches with sandpaper. I removed the radii at the corners with a file. I found a long bolt and wing nut M10 in the fastener supplies.

I marked and drilled holes in the vertical shelves. From the outside of the corner using a drill large diameter I removed large chamfers and bored out the holes with needle files to an elongated groove.

I screwed holes in the jaws and cut an M10 thread for the stand. The stand will be a large bolt with a nut. The entire system will be secured to this bolt. bench vise. A tightened nut on the stand will protect the structure from rotation and play.

I put everything together, secured the knife, that’s it, you can use it.

After several days of operation, I made minor adjustments to the design of the terminals. I drilled a couple of holes in the side planes and cut an M6 thread. I inserted spare screws into these holes. Knives come in different thicknesses, and the sharpener guide catches the screws. Selecting short screws from the supply of fasteners, I screwed them into place in the terminals. The reserve does not stretch the pocket and is always at hand.

By chance I got hold of a wing nut with an M6 thread. This nut makes it easier and faster to tighten sharpening stones on a stud.

For complete set I will buy whetstones of various grain sizes. They are not expensive, from 20 to 50 rubles apiece, and are sold at any construction market or depot. Again, you can use Lansky's signature stones.

All that remains is to find a suitable box to store the sharpener. Gift tin and plastic boxes of sweets or cookies, which are widely available in confectionery stores, are suitable for this role. Finding the right one is not difficult. Gobble up some goodies for finishing the creation of the sharpener, and put the jar to work. To prevent the sharpener from hitting the walls in the jar and the stones from deteriorating, it is useful to glue pieces to the walls and bottom thick fabric or thin foam rubber. Or cut grooves in a piece of plywood and pack all the iron and stones into them.

The sharpener is on my desk, and I spent minimal money, mostly on whetstones. You can say that I only paid for the touchstones and the M6 ​​threaded rod.

I don’t see any point in paying our huckster sellers. The sharpening takes several hours, half a day at most, and only because the paint takes a long time to dry.

In online stores, which is much cheaper than in regular stores, a Lansky sharpener costs at least 1,400 rubles. And here it’s practically a useful device.

Of course, the Lansky sharpener has a number of disadvantages, such as a limited number of sharpening angles, which are slightly compensated by the position of the cutting blade relative to the clamp, and the high cost of the branded product. These shortcomings can be relatively easily eliminated at home if you have basic plumbing tools, ingenuity and a little free time.

During the production of the clamp, when the terminals were almost ready, I was given a real Lansky sharpener. So, there was no need for a homemade device. Thanks KonstP. Terrible revenge, for this unconscious element, came in the form of delicious dark beer.

In the process of producing terminals, I came up with a simpler and more functional design for a knife clamp, but more on that in the next chapter of the Notes.

The finishing of the surfaces of the terminals is far from perfect, since there was no task to clean up the mess. The product can be painted, fortunately there is paint in a can.

Devices for sharpening knives with your own hands: types and drawings

Every housewife sooner or later begins to get dull knives with which she cuts bread, vegetables or cuts meat. Using a dull knife is not only inconvenient, but also unsafe. It can fall off the product being cut at any time and cause injury. Therefore, the tool should be periodically sharpened using a special device for sharpening knives.

A wide range of such sharpening devices are offered in stores. But for one reason or another, they do not always suit the consumer. In this case, you can make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands, having previously studied the types of sharpening stones, the features of the tool and the proposed drawings.

Sharpening knives - necessary conditions

For efficient and long-term operation of a knife, the most important factor when sharpening it is angle between blade edges. During the sharpening process, it is necessary to restore the previously specified angle, which will fully comply with technological standards and quickly, freely and efficiently cut the material.

Each blade has its own optimal angle:

• for a razor and scalpel, the sharpening angle should be 10–15 degrees;
• knives for cutting bread, fruits and vegetables are sharpened at an angle of 15–20 degrees;
• multifunctional knives for various products are processed at an angle of 20–25 degrees;
• hunting and camping knives - at an angle of 25–30 degrees;
• knives for cutting hard materials - 30–40 degrees.

Without a special device, it is difficult to sharpen the blade at the desired angle. While holding the knife with your hands, it is quite difficult to ensure required tilt angle cutting tool. To facilitate this process, there are special devices that you can make with your own hands. Their designs are quite simple, and the manufacturing itself does not take much time.

DIY knife sharpeners

There are many types of knife sharpeners, from which you can choose the one that best suits your needs.

All devices consist of two parts:

• a block of abrasive material;
• stop for attaching the knife.

You can use ready-made special stones as a bar or make it yourself.

Sharpening stones - types and manufacture

There are several types of stones on sale:

Water tools. When working with them, water is used, which saves the surface of the stone.

Oil The structure and shape of the stone resembles that of water, but its surface is the most oily.

Natural instruments are made from natural stones, which undergo industrial processing.

Artificial stones are made from non-natural components.

Rubber tools can also be found on sale, but working with them is not very convenient.

To make your own abrasive bar, you can use small rectangular glass plates with a thickness of 4–5 millimeters. Sandpaper of different grits should be glued to the surface of the plates using double-sided tape. The cost of such bars will be quite small, and the sandpaper can be replaced at any time.

However, when using a glass bar, you should be very careful carefully tighten the nuts. otherwise the glass may crack. In addition, no water is used when using it, so the abrasive wears out quickly. For the same reason, when sharpening knives, you should avoid rapid movements, which can lead to overheating of the material, and, therefore, to the loss of the properties of the blade.

Device for sharpening from wooden blocks

It is enough to simply make a sharpening tool from two wooden and two abrasive bars, which should be the same size.

For greater stability of the sharpening device to its lower surface, it is recommended attach a piece of rubber .

Do-it-yourself sharpener from mounting corners

The basis for this device is a Lansky sharpener, drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet.

• metal plates measuring 4x11 centimeters;
• standard aluminum corners;
• metal rods about 15 centimeters long;
• set of nuts and bolts;
• a sharpening machine with a vice or a file;
• needle file

Instead of a sharpening machine, you can use a file, since this tool is only needed for grinding off sharp corners and cleaning the metal cutting areas.

Stages of making a sharpener:

1. According to the drawing, markings are made for future holes in the plates.
2. The holes are drilled and threaded.
3. With the help of a file, everything is rounded sharp corners and edges. This will allow you to comfortably use the made knife.
4. Holes are made in the corner in accordance with the drawing.
5. The hole for the spoke support is expanded using a needle file.
6. The holes for the studs are threaded.
7. The rods are inserted into the outer holes and secured with nuts of the appropriate diameter (M6).
8. An M8 bolt is screwed into the wider hole, the length of which should be about 14 centimeters. A wing nut must first be screwed onto it, on top of which two ordinary nuts are screwed. The bolt in the structure will be used as a support post.
9. Bolts are attached to the remaining holes, with which the knife will be clamped.
10. Nuts are screwed onto the ends of the rods, a corner is threaded, which is fixed with the help of nuts. By lowering or raising the rods, you can adjust the sharpening angle.
11. A thin metal rod in the shape of the letter L, a rod with an M6 thread, two holders and a wing nut are used to assemble a device that will hold the sharpening stone. The end holder must be with through hole under the knitting needle.

This knife sharpening device has a fairly wide range of pressing angle degrees and is most convenient to use.

Massive sharpener with stand

With your own hands, you can imitate a knife sharpening device from Apex, the drawings of which are easy to find on the Internet. Such a knife is presented in the form of a stand, on which a platform is installed at an angle, and on the side there is a support for the end of the nozzle in the form of a rod. This is a very convenient device with which you can sharpen any cutting tools very efficiently.

Required materials and tools:

The sharpening angle on such a device adjustable using bar and thumb. which fixes the part at the desired height.

Each of the described devices has its own advantages and disadvantages. When choosing the appropriate option, you need to proceed from your needs and skills in such work that you will need to do with your own hands.

A device for sharpening knives is a necessary tool in the household

IN household There are always cutting, sawing and planing tools. During the work, the sharpness is lost, and the blades have to be restored. You can give knives and planes to a workshop, but this costs money and takes up extra time. Therefore, home craftsmen prefer to sharpen the tool with their own hands.

Important! Only blades with a certain degree of hardening can be sharpened. If the cutting part has a hardness above 55 HRC, it cannot be sharpened with improvised tools.

You can buy a device for sharpening knives or other household utensils at the store. Save time, but spend a considerable amount - good sharpening are expensive.


By the way, there are different opinions about what the knife sharpening device is called. Emery, whetstone, whetstone, sharpener, musat...

These definitions may refer to the same thing, or various products? We will talk about this and how to make such a device yourself in the article.

Since the advent of cutting objects (weapons, knives, axes), man has been looking for a way to restore the sharpness of the edge. In the Bronze and Copper Ages it was simple.

Homemade knife sharpener made by yourself. The knife cuts paper like a razor! A simple design can be made at home.

Soft metals were adjusted to any stone. With the advent of steel blades, special rocks, usually of volcanic origin, were used for sharpening.

Some of them are still used today: the American "Arkansas" and the Japanese "water stone". These are expensive devices, so most craftsmen use artificial sandpaper.

A simple whetstone can sharpen both the knife and the cutting edge of the plane. However, the quality will leave much to be desired.

The golden rule of sharpening: Each blade has its own edge angle, and it should not change along its entire length.

This principle lies in the design of all sharpening devices. By following this rule, you can make such a device yourself.

Do-it-yourself knife sharpening device - drawings, varieties

In order for the blade edge to be processed evenly, several conditions are necessary:

1. Fixation of the blade is both reliable and without excessive load. Metal should not be damaged in a vice
2. Setting a specific angle for the bar. When moving along the edge of the knife, the angle should not change
3. Possibility to set different sharpening angles. You can process a variety of tools, and some types of knives have a stepped structure.

Device for linear sharpening with a whetstone

For production you will need:

• Plywood or laminated chipboard
• Steel stud with thread along the entire length, diameter 6-8 mm
• A block of textolite or ebonite. Can be replaced with hard wood - beech, oak
• Aluminum plate 3-5 mm thick
• Fasteners - bolts, nuts (preferably wing nuts)
• Neodymium magnet from an old computer HDD.

We assemble a frame from plywood, resting on legs at an angle of 15°-20°. We screw a 30-40 cm long pin into the part below. For strength, you can secure the thread with glue or sealant.


We fix an aluminum plate in the middle of the working surface. First we make a groove in it, along the diameter of the fixing bolt. Why aluminum? To avoid damaging the steel blade of the knife.

We make a lever to secure the emery. It is assembled from the remaining part of the hairpin. We cut out the bar holders from two textolite bars. On one side the stop is secured with a nut.


It is more convenient to make a spring-loaded block on the side of the handle - for quickly changing the sandpaper.

We use homemade bars as the main element - we glue sandpaper with different grain sizes onto an aluminum plate. Such devices are easily fixed in the lever.


A special feature of the design is a hinge with two degrees of freedom. It is assembled from two identical PCB bars. One is screwed onto a vertical pin, and serves both as a horizontal rotary axis and as an adjuster for the height of the lever support (this is how the sharpening angle is set).

The second block, with a horizontal hole for the lever, is screwed to the first. This ensures free movement of the lever vertically.


The knife can be clamped using a plate, or mounted on a neodymium magnet. When removing the first layer with coarse sandpaper, the blade should be firmly fixed.

For finishing, you can install the blade on a magnet and sharpen it with little effort. The magnet horseshoe should be recessed flush with the table top and glued with epoxy glue.


The homemade knife sharpening device is ready. We set the required angle of attack and sharpen the edge with smooth movements along the blade.

The same principle is used in a device for sharpening knives on an electric sharpener.

Electric emery not only speeds up work, but also allows you to obtain a high-quality concave blade edge profile. This is the so-called dolovaya sharpening. It will not be possible to obtain such a shape on a linear block, so these two devices do not replace, but complement each other.

Important! If, when working with a manual sharpening device, you completely control the intensity of the process, then the high speed of rotation of the emery wheel can damage the knife.

Due to friction, the metal on the tip heats up, and hardening occurs. The steel loses its hardness and wears off with ragged edges. Another problem is that a “released” knife quickly loses its sharpness. Therefore, you should work with an electric sharpener carefully. Apply the blade for a short time and take breaks to cool down.

Do-it-yourself knife sharpener - video with explanations and manufacturing example

In this mode it is difficult to maintain a constant angle, so fixing the knife is mandatory.


The design is quite simple - along the axis of rotation of the emery there is a guide along which the carriage with the knife moves. The angle is maintained mechanically, and the force is determined by the operator.

The device is easy to make with your own hands - and it is not necessary to perform precise work on processing metal parts. The guide is literally made from the base material.


On the workbench, next to the sharpener, guides are attached, with the help of which you can change the distance from the knife stop to the rotating circle. This distance determines the sharpening angle. The vertical rod must have free movement up and down with a strong position fixation.


The knife is held horizontally, pressing against the stop. The force of contact with the emery is adjusted directly during sharpening. Processing occurs symmetrically, you simply change the side of the knife and sharpen at the same angle.


This method is only suitable for processing classic knives. Kitchen, hunting, tourist. The cutting planes of other tools require a different approach.

Design for sharpening knives, say a jointer:


A specialized sandpaper with an end working surface is used. The guide for the carriage is located at the bottom, away from the axis of rotation.

It is in this part of the disk that the abrasive works most effectively. The guide with the cutting element is moved manually, the pressure is provided by the knife’s own weight.

Drawings of all structural elements are presented in the illustration.

This machine was used almost 100 years ago, and the technology has not changed since then. Simplicity of execution allows you to repeat the device in a home workshop. Any materials - metal, plastic, wood.


Instead of using the cutting elements of a jointer, you can sharpen the knives of an ice ax for winter fishing. Only the angle is shallower. The scissor attachment works in the same way. Design (as well as emery wheel) is significantly smaller in size.

You can also use an electric sander and a locking carriage to sharpen chisels and plane knives. However, these tools are compact and can be handled by a mechanical tool.

There are two equivalent methods - along the edge and across. The quality of processing is approximately the same, so it is impossible to give preference to a specific device.
The factory product involves transverse editing of the blade.


By analogy, we make a carriage from thick plywood. We use any rollers as guides, preferably more than two. By moving the machine along the sandpaper, you can give the tip of the chisel an ideal shape.


If you don't need serious sharpening, a simpler device will do just fine for minor adjustments. Attach a block with the required angle of inclination to the chisels. Place sandpaper and a piece of glass nearby. Apply to glass soap solution.


The effectiveness of the device will pleasantly surprise you.

And for transverse sharpening, you can make an equally simple device. The guide is also a support. The blade is mounted vertically on the moving part. The only drawback is that the angle is fixed and is determined during manufacture.


True, unlike a knife, deviation from the ideal is not so critical.

The same device is suitable for sharpening plane knives. Just because of the width of the blade, the process is quite labor-intensive. Therefore, you can use an electric sander with an end working surface.

The emphasis is made of a wooden block. All you need to do is change the angle. The clamp is provided by the operator, and semicircular sharpening can be performed - carpenters will appreciate this option.


Of course, the same device is convenient for tidying up the edge of a chisel. Given the high performance, you will restore the tool even after serious nicks.

Homemade device for sharpening knives and tools from a sharpening machine

When you again manually rub a knife on an old whetstone, remember this article and create a homemade sharpening installation for your home workshop.

Homemade machine for sharpening knives with your own hands: diagram, instructions, manufacturing features

Every man in the house will benefit from a convenient machine for sharpening knives with his own hands. After all, the owner is often judged by how sharp this kitchen tool is.

There are many techniques for sharpening knife blades. For example, for a process carried out at home, only a turning block or ready-made devices with an angular gap shape.

To adjust expensive hunters' knives, European manufacturers produce devices in the form of solid bars, the basis of which is a high-strength alloy.

This article will describe how to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.

Why do knives get dull?

What is the reason why a knife becomes dull when cutting? This can be explained by the fact that the cutting edge is negatively affected by abrasive particles that are present in the material being cut. For example, they are present on vegetables and paper. In simple terms, the blade is subject to gradual wear.

The next reason is the inability to hold the blade in the desired position all the time. Any trembling of the hand causes the knife to tilt, which entails a lateral load.

Sharpening technique

The sharpening technique consists of unified, but at the same time quite labor-intensive methods. The main task is to eliminate damage to the blade. It should be noted that for many, such a procedure as sharpening knives provides a good mood and peace of mind.

The main rule in this process is to maintain a precisely specified constant angle. No force required here. The main thing is that the block and blade meet at a certain angle. This is the basic rule of the sharpening technique.

What needs to be done to maintain a constant angle?

In order for the angle to have a constant indicator, there are two ways. The first is to acquire the sharpening skill. The angle indicator can be controlled using a regular marker. They should paint over the connections and, after several sharpening cycles, see how well the paint is preserved. If it is worn unevenly, then the blade is not processed well.

If the knife you are sharpening is decorative, then you should seal the blade with tape so that only the cutting edge remains open. Even if you misdirect your hand, there will be no scratches on the blade.

An important point is that the direction of the blade along the block is perpendicular to the edge at the points of contact. This is actually quite difficult to do. It is acceptable for the angle between the edge and the blade to be less than 90 degrees. But when directed along the cutting edge, this indicator is not suitable.

The abrasive particles of the stone can leave grooves on the blade that will never be sharpened, but will play a positive role when cutting. If the grooves are oriented along the cutting edge, then they will be of no use during cutting. The worst thing is that the cutting edge may break off altogether.

It is important that the bar is long. It should be one and a half or two lengths of the blade. It is allowed for the diamond block to be somewhat shorter, as it grinds faster and better. Its width does not play a significant role. If it is wider, then it is more convenient to work on it and there is less chance of the blade moving beyond the limits of the device. It might damage him lateral surface or a blade.

Making a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands

Homemade knife sharpening devices come in different designs. All that is required from the manufacturer is availability the required material and tool skills.

The operating principle of such a device as manual machine To sharpen knives with your own hands, you need to hold the knife blade in a vertical position and drive it along a block fixed at the desired angle. This is much easier than placing the sharpening stone horizontally and holding the knife at the desired angle.

In order to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, you need a piece of laminate, a wooden strip, sandpaper and a pair of bots with wings. Chipboard or plywood can serve as a replacement for laminate.

To make a knife holder, you need to cut off some of the material. To prevent the block from touching the holder when sharpening, you should sand its edge at an angle using sandpaper.

It is necessary to mark and cut off the top of the vertical post, which will serve as a support for the block. The angle chosen is half that at which the knife will be sharpened. For kitchen knives, it is recommended to take an angle of 10-15 degrees.

A machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, the drawings of which are prepared in advance, requires the correct calculation of the length of the base of the racks. Please note that the height indicator will be affected by the subsequent installation of the transverse support. After this, all parts are trimmed and the edges are cleaned.

Holes are marked and drilled in the base and plate for pressing the bolts that secure the blade. When marking, the distance of the holes from the edge of the base is maintained. This is necessary for the versatility of the device, since all knives have their own width. The pressure plate is secured with bolts.

Vertical posts are secured with screws. It is also taken into account that the load on the bottom is small. In this case, it is better to resort to using thermal glue. The horizontal crossbar is attached in exactly this way. The sharpening device is almost ready. All that remains is to make the block.

To make it, a strip of the required length is cut. Sandpaper is glued to one edge with the right size abrasive To optimize the result, you can resort to making several bars with different grain sizes. The range P600 - P2000 is considered the best. To protect your hands from cuts, you need to screw the handle on the top side of the rail.

The result is a homemade machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, characterized by high functionality and practicality. When working, the device rests against the edge of the table, which is quite comfortable when using it.

There are also other types of machine for sharpening knives with your own hands. In this case, its basis is threaded rod M8. Two large washers and nuts are used, which serve to hold a bar 200 mm long.

Heat shrink tubing covers the threads. A pair of paper clips serve to secure the guide stand at the desired height. This ensures smooth adjustment of the sharpening angle. The base is made of timber, the thickness of which is 40 mm. It is supported by hand.

How to sharpen jointing knives with your own hands

Every owner who has a plane or jointer has probably encountered the problem of sharpening their knives. It is expensive to purchase new ones periodically. Knives can be easily sharpened with your own hands. In this case, specialized machines or sharpening stones are used. If the jointer is used constantly, then it would be better to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself machine for sharpening a jointer knife

To sharpen a jointer knife, special sharpening equipment is used. The machine for sharpening knives with your own hands has a compact size. It can be installed in a garage or on a personal plot.

Many people are interested in how to make a knife sharpening machine with their own hands. To make a device you need to find certain parts. Perhaps similar spare parts are lying around in your barn or garage. They can also be purchased via the Internet.

Sharpening machine jointing knives with your own hands consists of:

The first thing you should do is find the faceplate. This is the most important component of future equipment. She is the one responsible for the sharpening process. The jointer knives are narrow, and the faceplate guarantees complete and safe sharpening. You will have to buy this part new, but the rest can be used even as old ones.

It is better to purchase faceplates of German or American production. The average cost of a part is 25,000 rubles.

The next step is to find a motor whose power should be 1-1.5 kW. There is no need to buy it. Anyone will do, even old ones washing machine. But everyone probably has a table, a casing and a vacuum cleaner.

Main stages of device manufacturing

When the table is selected, the engine is fixed directly under it. A faceplate is attached to the moving part. The engine must initially be equipped with a button that turns the unit on and off. It should be conveniently located.

For reliable protection the faceplate is covered with a square-shaped casing with one corner cut out. It is this area that needs to be sharpened.

A hole of the same diameter as the vacuum cleaner hose is made on the lower surface of the table in the sharpening area. The presence of a vacuum cleaner is not essential, but it is advisable to install it. It removes unnecessary dirt from blade processing.

What do you need to know?

Mounting the engine under the base of the faceplate is not a requirement. You can make sure that the parts are connected using a belt. In this case, the design will be more complex.

A do-it-yourself jointer knife sharpening machine is also suitable for saws and axes.

Ice screw sharpening

The sharp knives of the ice drill enable the fisherman to quickly make holes in the ice of reservoirs. However, over time, any cutting tools become dull and require sharpening.

For fishermen, a high-quality ice auger is a great source of pride. Often, true competitions on the speed of drilling ice holes are held on reservoirs. And victory does not always smile on young and strong fishermen who are armed with imported equipment. There are times when experienced fishermen, equipped with simple tools Soviet made. The reason for the high hole drilling speed lies in the good sharpening of the knives and the correct settings of the device. Beginner fishermen, having bought new Swedish devices, do not even have time to blink an eye before their knives become dull. Tiny grains of sand and pebbles in the ice contribute to the formation of chips and gouges on the blade.

Sharpening of devices is carried out in a variety of ways. Many of our ancestors did not even know what a professional was. grinding machine. In most cases, sharpening was carried out using hand-made devices.

Homemade ice drill machine: what will you need to make it?

To make a device such as a machine for sharpening ice drill knives with your own hands, you will need two strips of steel, the thickness of which is 4 mm, the width is 60 mm, and the length is 200 mm. A spring from a car is often used as a strip. But it is very difficult to bend.

Progress

First you need to make the device case. The steel strips are bent in such a way that the chamfers of the knives pressed to the ends of the arc are not only parallel, but also in the same plane.

After making an arc from the same steel strip, a pressure plate is bent, which serves as a clamp for the knives being sharpened

Holes for M12 or M14 bolts are drilled in the body and pressure plate. Having tightened the body and the pressure plate using a bolt and nut, we clamp the knives between them and check the strength of their adherence to the surface of the end of the emery circle.

If the knives are not located at the required angle (the chamfers do not fit exactly to the circle), then the device is modified by bending the body arc to the appropriate level. If the knives are positioned correctly, then the structure is disassembled, and stiffeners are welded to the body arc on both sides.

Sharpening knives is best done on an emery stone that rotates horizontally. In this case, when wetting the knives with water, the latter remains on the blade and stone longer, ensuring their safety. Dip knives in water frequently. This will help prevent the steel from overheating.

Disadvantage of the device

The disadvantages of the device include the impossibility of sharpening knives with different cutting chamfer angles. But each ice drill manufacturer offers its own models. In this case, a universal device is suitable.

Making a universal device for sharpening an ice drill

The universal design allows you to sharpen knives at any cutting edge angle. By smoothly changing the angle between the arms of the unit, on which the knives are fastened with screws, you can fix the desired position of the knives in relation to the plane of the grindstone.

To make this device, you need to find a door hinge with minimal play, as well as an M8 or M10 screw with its own nut. Holes are drilled in the canopy arms. Their diameter is 6-7 mm (for attaching knives to them with screws).

A fixing plate with a slot for a fastening screw is made from a steel strip, the thickness of which is 3 mm. The plate and screw are welded to the canopy arms.

It happens that knives are sharpened, the location of the holes does not correspond to the holes in the canopy. In this case, additional holes are drilled in the arms for non-standard knives. In this case, the device has greater versatility.

How are planer knives sharpened?

Tools such as planers and surface thicknessers can often be seen in country houses. Through them, raw lumber is brought to the desired state. The knives of these devices, like any other, become dull. If you use them often, then the best solution would be to sharpen the knives for planer with your own hands. To make sharpening equipment at home, you will need various materials: metal, aluminum or wood.

A knife holder can be made from a wooden block. Made through circular saw cuts at 45 degrees, you can sharpen the knives with a belt sander or a large whetstone. If the latter is not available, then sandpaper is attached to a smooth surface made of metal, wood, chipboard or glass.

Knife holders can be made from scrap materials. The optimal solution would be to use metal corners that have an angle of 90 degrees. When placing two knives on the sides, the sharpening angle of each will be 45 degrees. Using screws, you can secure the knives with a second corner.

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Regardless of what guarantee the knife manufacturer gives that they will not require sharpening during use, sooner or later this question will still arise before the user. It doesn’t matter whether this applies to kitchen utensils or camping accessories, because... A sharp knife is the key to success in fishing and hunting, while traveling and when cooking. Devices for sharpening knives - types and rules of use, as well as how to make them yourself - this is the topic of today’s review by the site’s editors.

The simplest device for sharpening a cutting tool is a block, and the device for its use is a clamp for the angle of the surface being sharpened

Knives can be classified according to the following indicators:

Whetstones and whetstones

A whetstone (sharpening stone) is an abrasive tool used to sharpen cutting edges household appliances and kitchen utensils, carpentry and plumbing tools.

The industry produces four types of stones for sharpening knives:

• natural– novaculite and Japanese water stone, which are expensive and difficult to use;
• diamond– the most popular type of product, it is distinguished by its diversity both in geometric dimensions and grain size. They are characterized by wear resistance and efficiency of use, as well as low cost;
• ceramic – modern type sharpening tool, characterized by a combination of the positive qualities of natural and diamond analogues;
• artificial– well-known types of electrocorundum or carbide are low in cost, but during use they crumble and are not suitable for finishing cutting edges.

Hand tools

• Must for sharpening knives.

Almost everyone knows what musat is, but many don’t even suspect that this is the name of this product. The reason for this is that musat, as a rule, comes with sets of knives offered for sale through trade organizations.

Musat is a rod made from various materials, equipped with a handle and characterized by the roughness of the working surface.

The roughness of the drawing is the size of the notch applied to the rod, and it is this that determines the degree of roughness of the cutting surface of the knife after processing. The musat is equipped with a rod that has a certain degree of magnetization, which ensures that metal particles formed during use reach food and kitchen utensils. Musats are classified according to:

• rod shape– round and oval, flat and tetrahedral;
• materials used– ceramics and metal, diamond and mixed designs.

Each type has certain advantages and disadvantages that determine the possibilities of using the device and its purpose.

• Manual machines.

Household manual sharpening machines for sharpening knives vary in their design, but in any of them a whetstone or whetstone acts as the main element. The impact of the abrasive tool on the cutting surface is carried out using the efforts exerted by the user. The main task performed by a manual machine is to create and maintain an optimal sharpening angle of cutting edges for the entire period of work, which is achieved by rigidly fixing the knife in a given plane. The industry produces various models of such equipment, differing in size and methods of fastening abrasives and processed knives, as well as the materials used and cost.

Manual knife sharpeners can be used not only as home equipment, they are also successfully used by professionals. The only difference between models for household and professional use is their cost, which depends on the type of abrasive materials that guarantee the quality and speed of sharpening.

Professional and household knife sharpeners equipped with an electric drive

The presence of an electric drive greatly simplifies the process of using knife sharpening devices, this applies to both models for home use and professional use.

Distinctive features of models for various types of use are:

• the value of electrical power - for a professional tool it is greater, and for household models it is less;
• period of use – determines the ability of the machine to operate without stopping (PV-on);
• overall dimensions and method of fastening (installation) on the working surface of a table or other piece of furniture;
• type and sizes of abrasive available for use on a specific model;
• functionality – the ability to sharpen knives of various types (kitchen, cutting mechanisms and devices, scissors, etc.).

Household electric sharpeners do not take up much space and are very functional, because... their design, as a rule, provides various fixed sharpening angles for different types knives and other cutting tools (scissors, screwdrivers, etc.). The ability to quickly and efficiently sharpen the cutting edges of knives is very important for enterprises Catering, where the speed and quality of cooking depends on sharpening. Professional knife sharpening machines are functional devices equipped with high-quality abrasive tools that allow not only rough sharpening, but also fine-tuning the cutting edges of knives for various purposes.

Professional models, in addition, as a rule, have several operating modes that allow sharpening with different efficiency, necessary for knives made of different metals or ceramics.

How to properly sharpen a knife at home

Everyone knows that a knife must be sharp, and for this it needs to be sharpened, but how to do it correctly is often not known to every user. It should be noted right away that in order to carry out the work correctly it is necessary:

• Know the sharpening angles for each type of knives and other cutting tools.
• Be able to work on a variety of equipment or using available tools.

Sharpening angle of knives for various purposes

For knives used for various purposes, the sharpening angles of the cutting edges are different, which is determined by their purpose and nature of use.

This value is for:

• table knives - 55–60˚, because ready meals they are quite soft and cut easily; moreover, with a smaller sharpening angle, there is a possibility of damaging the dishes while eating;
• hunting and folding models – 40−45˚, which is explained by their versatility;
• kitchen knives – 30−35˚;
• used for professional cutting of vegetables - 35˚;
• used for professional cutting and deboning of meat – 25−30˚;
• used for professional fish cutting - 25˚.

Some types of knives are sharpened with different sharpening angles, such as those intended for slicing bread (the angle is 15˚), but this is a narrowly targeted use in which sharpening must be done quite often, because with a decrease in this indicator, the durability of the cutting edges decreases.

How to sharpen a knife at home with a whetstone

In order to properly sharpen a knife using a whetstone, you must follow several rules for performing the work:

• it is necessary to select the optimal sharpening angle corresponding to the purpose of the knife;
• the blade must be positioned in relation to the plane of the block strictly within the specified sharpening angle parameters for the entire period of work;
• Sharp and jerky movements should not be allowed, they should be smooth and sliding;
• When performing work, the block should be moistened generously with water diluted with soap or detergent.

How to sharpen using musat

The process of sharpening a knife using musat is shown in the following figure.

The work is carried out as follows:

• The musat is installed on a flat surface strictly in a vertical plane;
• the upper part of the device is combined with the sharpened edge of the knife near its handle, after which the knife moves along the rod of the grinder in an arcuate movement directed from top to bottom;
• the movements are repeated several times on both edges of the knife.

I would like to note that experienced users can perform this operation in weight, without rigidly fixing the rod of the device used.

How to properly sharpen a knife on an electric sharpener

When using models equipped with an electric drive, the basic requirements for performing the work to ensure proper sharpening are the same as in the case of using a whetstone or whetstone.

But, besides this, there are additional requirements that can be formulated as follows:

• It is not the abrasive that should be moistened with water, but the surface of the knife being processed, which is explained by the fact that water is not retained on a rapidly rotating wheel;
• the blade must not be allowed to overheat, which can lead to its damage, which occurs when the edges being processed are strongly pressed against the abrasive surface;
• to rigidly fix the sharpening angle, additional devices can be used that are mounted rigidly to the body of the sharpening machine or are in the user’s hands;
• When working on industrial sharpening machines, it is necessary to use personal protective equipment, such as gloves and safety glasses.

In the case of using small devices intended for home use, the main requirement for sharpening is the time required to complete the operation; all the rest (fixing the sharpening angle, protection, etc.) are performed by the machine itself, according to its design.

Typical mistakes when doing DIY work

When sharpening knives on their own, many users make typical mistakes, which can be formulated as follows:

• Creating an incorrect sharpening angle prevents the knife from being used for its intended purpose or reduces its functionality.
• Excessive pressure when working on electric models or incorrect direction and nature of movements when using a whetstone or sharpening stone contribute to damage to the surface of the knife and destruction of its edge.
• Sharpening the cutting surface without first cleaning it from dirt and foreign substances leads to the abrasive becoming washed out and damaged.
• Using only one grinding stone when sharpening cutting edges. This device is intended only for finishing or straightening knife blades; it is not intended for basic sharpening.
• Failure to complete the sharpening operation again leads to rapid dulling of the cutting edges.
• Using an abrasive (whet stone or whetstone) of only one grit size.

Making a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands

Although nowadays you can easily buy necessary equipment and equipment designed for sharpening knives and other cutting tools, however, handicraft citizens continue to make knives with their own hands in their free time. When making a knife sharpener with your own hands, you need to decide on its type (manual or electric) and the type of abrasive materials used (block, wheel, sanding belt), as well as the available materials that will be used to make the body of the assembled device and its frame. Consider the option of a manual sharpener using an abrasive stone and plywood as a structure frame. Appearance The assembled device is shown in the following figure.

Every housewife dreams of sharp knives. It is difficult to do without such cutting tools in the kitchen. Not everyone succeeds correct sharpening: I seem to have tried, but the knife still doesn’t cut well or quickly becomes dull. Often the cause of this is improper sharpening. You can get out of this situation if you use a knife sharpening machine.

Modification of sharpeners

Sold in stores a large number of all kinds of devices and machines, ranging from the simplest to automatic machines. However, many of them either do not bring sharpening to the final goal, or are too expensive. All machines can be divided into three categories:

• superhard;
• hard;
• soft.

To sharpen the tool, you need to manually move it along the abrasive, achieving desired effect. Many people use this method, but not everyone succeeds. The reason is that for proper sharpening, the sharpening angle must be strictly observed. It depends on the hardness and volume of the material being cut.

For the tools below The following angles in degrees must be maintained:

• razors - 8-12;
• blades for cutting fillets - 10-15;
• kitchen knives - 15-20;
• hunting tools - 20-25;
• heavy knives (for example, machetes) - 30-50.

The next thing you need to pay attention to when sharpening knives is the grain size of the abrasive material. To sharpen very dull knives, abrasives with coarser grains are used. This will help remove excess metal faster. When leveling the surface, use medium emery stones, and for grinding you need very fine grain. Usually On sanding wheels and bars the abrasive size is indicated in numbers:

• 300-350 - very large, used for pruning;
• 400-500 - average, allows for basic sharpening;
• 600-700 - shallow, you can level the blade on it;
• 1000-1200 - very fine, with its help it is possible to polish the tool.

To sharpen a knife by hand, place a block or an emery wheel on a table or workbench and secure it. Cutting tool hold the abrasive with the blade facing away from you, place it on desired angle. At first they use a protractor. Subsequently, when certain experience appears, it will be possible to do without it.

They begin to sharpen the blade, strictly ensuring that the angle is maintained. This kind of work requires attention and experience, so it may not work out right away. It will be much more convenient to do it if you make your own device for sharpening knives. A self-assembled product will cost much less.

Use of machines

The most simple device, which can be made at home, is a wooden corner. A block will be placed in it. The base is made in the form of a box, the size of which is selected according to the abrasive. The second side of the corner has the same shape and is mounted in a vertical position. To make the device more stable, the base is connected to a wide board.

A block is inserted vertically into the device. In this position the angle is 0°. To create the desired slope, the lower edge of the abrasive begins to be moved away from the vertical, the angle is measured with a protractor. To prevent the block from “moving”, a stop is placed at the bottom (you can simply screw in a screw). To sharpen, the blade is moved along the sandpaper strictly in a vertical plane. For fine processing and grinding, the bars are changed. Since the stone is ground unevenly, they constantly need to be leveled using harder stones. Using sandpaper eliminates such hassle.

To do this, you need to take sandpaper with coarse, medium and fine grain, as well as a leather belt. A block of wood is cut to the size of the abrasive and processed with sandpaper. One blank is made from a leather belt. Each face of the bar is numbered, and numbers are placed near the top and bottom edges. A tape with a large grain is glued to the plane numbered 1, 2 - with a medium grain, 3 - with a fine grain, 4 - leather from a belt.

The tapes are attached indented from the edge. Thanks to this, the numbers will be visible, and the block will fit into the grooves of the box. They begin to sharpen the blade from 1 or 2 and then move on to the next edges. As the sandpaper wears out, it is cut off with a knife and a new one is glued on. Compared to bars, paper is much cheaper.

This device can be modified. The vertical stand is attached to the base through a hinge so that it can tilt back, increasing the sharpening angle. On the side where the stand tilts, a stop is placed, for example, two plates fastened together through longitudinal slots with a wing bolt or nut. In this case, the lower edge of the bar will be motionless.

Convenient designs

Although the designs described above have a number of advantages, they have one significant drawback - you need to constantly monitor the vertical of the blade, and this is tedious. Much easier to work with electric machine for processing kitchen tools.

Emery, as the device for sharpening knives is called, makes the task much easier. The blade is brought to the circle so that it is directed against its rotation. But even in this case, it is necessary to monitor the sharpening angle.

To make it easier to work, you can make wooden stand. It consists of two parts: the base and the corner itself. The support helps raise the knife to the desired height; another workpiece with an inclined platform is placed on it; it is this that will give the necessary tilt to the blade. You can make several such corners, they will be designed for different ways sharpening. To fix the guide, you can use nails without heads. They are driven into the base, leaving 10-15 mm, covered with paint, and a corner is placed on top. The painted areas are drilled with a drill of the same diameter as the nails.

The device works well when there is no casing covering the emery stone, but it is not entirely safe. In the case of using protection, you can use another sharpening stand. On the side of the electric sharpener, a wooden block with a vertical slot for the knife is installed. The height is selected so that the angle of the blade being sharpened corresponds to the required condition. The knife is inserted into the cutout and slides along it.

This electric sharpener has a significant drawback - it is difficult to set the sharpening angle. To get rid of it, the design should be complicated. To do this, a three-arm holder with the ability to adjust the angle is installed. It is attached directly to the sandpaper, but can also be used as a stand-alone device. To make such a device, you need skills and special machines, and this is not suitable for everyone.

Another disadvantage is that when using an electric knife sharpening machine, the stone is ground down. It will have to be constantly adjusted during operation to make the blade sharp. In addition, with this method, the sandpaper is used irrationally; it has to be changed, throwing away a significant part of the abrasive.

Homemade devices

Some owners use a manual knife sharpening machine with an adjustable sharpening angle. The essence of such a device comes down to the fact that one of the elements (knife or abrasive) is in a stationary state, while the other is made to reciprocate. Two groups of such machines can be distinguished:

• with fixed abrasive;
• with fixed blade.

The first group includes a trolley machine. The abrasive is installed on a flat surface. Treated stone or thick glass can be used as such a surface. To make the holder, a board 2-3 cm thick is cut out, its length should be approximately 1.5 times the abrasive material, the width does not play a decisive role. For best view and a flat surface is treated with a plane and sandpaper. Along the long edges, stops are nailed and glued to provide strength.

Then you should make the wedges. To do this, take the treated board again and cut out a rectangle. Its thickness should be equal to the height of the abrasive material, the length should approximately correspond to the width of the holder. To calculate the width of the device, you need to subtract the length of the abrasive and the width of the two stops from the length of the holder.

When assembled, you get the following picture: an abrasive and a wedge should fit on the holder between two stops. After this, the rectangle is cut diagonally, but not from corner to corner, but with a slight indentation, so that triangles with cut off vertices are obtained.

When the wedge and abrasive are placed in the holder, they begin to lightly hit the bases of the triangles with a hammer. These parts must slide over each other, their overall width increases, and the abrasive is clamped. To prevent the holder from moving on the glass, its bottom is covered with thin rubber.

The dolly will allow the knife to move while maintaining a constant angle. The wheels can be anything, you can use bearings, the main thing is that they are smooth. A guide with a blade holder is attached to the trolley. Here too There are two ways to adjust the sharpening angle:

• changing the height of the abrasive;
• turning the guide with the blade (in this case the cart must have 4 wheels).

In the second option, you can use a rotating mechanism.

Other models

Machine tools in which the tool being processed is stationary have become very popular. A kitchen or other knife is mounted on an inclined platform. Reliable fastening is obtained by using a magnet; all kinds of clamps (spring or threaded) are also widely used.

A rod is attached to the platform on the opposite side of the knife. It is allowed to use a steel rod with a diameter of 8 mm. The inclination of the platform is selected so that it approximately corresponds to the desired angle of the tool being sharpened. A clamp is attached to the rod, which can be moved if necessary, thereby more accurately setting the angle. A guide moves freely in it - the same metal rod as the rod. For better sliding, a plastic or nylon bushing is inserted into the clamp.

At the other end of the guide (near the tool being sharpened) there are two brackets that are tightened with a nut or wing. A block is inserted into them and secured with a wing or nut.

The machine operates as follows: a blade is placed in the clamps on the inclined platform, the block is tightened with brackets on the guide, and the desired angle is set using the clamp. The angle is measured with a protractor mounted on the blade. The bar begins to make forward movements, processing the entire surface. During grinding, the abrasive is moved in only one direction - from the heel to the blade.

Another machine uses a trapezoid. The long sides are made of steel bars connected to each other wooden blocks. One rod is attached through a bearing to rotating mechanism, the other is a guide along which the block moves freely. The knife stand is installed under the carriage on a flat surface. If the first rod of the trapezoid gets in the way when sharpening the tool, the stand can be raised higher.

Thin paper, such as newspaper, will help determine the quality of sharpening. You need to try to cut strips out of it with quick and smooth movements. If this succeeds, then the blade is sharpened correctly.