If you decide to equip your own workshop, workbench or work table, you may definitely need homemade vice. This is a relatively simple task, and the completed workbench or workshop will serve you well long time. You should study in more detail the question of how to make a bench vice with your own hands and what nuances accompany this process.
Double screw joiner
If you are looking for a carpenter's bench vise that is truly powerful, then this is your best bet. two-screw modification of the specified device. M20 towbar bolts provide a force of several tons, which is an excellent option for such a vice. The assembly procedure for such a device is as follows:
- We prepare everything necessary tools;
- We make the appropriate slots and holes;
- Insert bolts and turns;
- We check the vice for strength and performance.
Step by step and detailed instructions instructions for assembling and making your own vices for the workshop and workbench are available on specialized resources and forums in the form of photographs and recommendations.
Very convenient for ready-made desktops make a mini Moxon vice. To begin with you will need following materials and tools:
After the workpiece has been cut, it is necessary to sand the edges using sandpaper. We round the edges of the wheels with a drill and the same sandpaper. To make screws, you need to purchase a long threaded rod and cut metal blanks into two parts.
After this, you need to insert the nuts into the holes. Glue the skin onto the clips and remove all excess. Surface protection is provided by tung oil. It, unlike other wood impregnation agents, polymerizes inside and outside the tree with rapid penetration into the lower layers. After the oil has dried, all that remains is to connect all the resulting parts together - and the vice will be ready for use.
They are also easy to make yourself. First you need to cut the plywood to size. Weld two nuts to the flat panel for the threaded guide and attach them under the table with screws, as this will add stability to the structure in question. It is very important to align everything correctly, otherwise it will not work.
After this, you need to use a chisel to make a recess for the nut. On the outer lock, drill a hole 3 cm deep. Therefore, the thickness of the plywood should be 3 cm.
It is a copy of a regular vice, only made of wood. Of the metal parts, only a screw 45 cm long and 8 cm thick should be used here. Massive pine plywood, well dried, is suitable.
The vise jaws are made from separate blocks, which are subsequently glued together. To give them their final shape, sand their edges with sandpaper. In this case, for one block it is worth choosing a thicker tree. This compensates for the space between the moving and fixed parts. The handle should fit through the head into the hole freely, then add the knob and anvil. When finished, remove the mounting screws, coat the vise elements with two coats of oil-based polyurethane and leave to dry overnight. Bolt the vise to the workbench.
Oak vice
The design of this structure is based on ancient drawings, the body is made of oak sleepers. The jaws can be cut by hand or with a saw. Grooves are punched down on both sides of the base. The brackets add strength to the rear jaw and secure it well to the base.
The top of the tee is on top of the clamping bolt. You will also need a large bolt and a square head that fits into the housing groove at the base of the vise. A steel strip should be added to each side of the base at the bottom to protect the side brackets from wear.
Make a homemade vice, as we see, it turns out, is not so difficult. There are many sites and articles on the Internet that talk in detail about the manufacture of devices for various workbenches and desktops. Making oak vices is very interesting, since solid pine plywood is ideal for them. A steel strip is a good addition as it prevents wear and tear on the brackets and vice in general. Happy work and making homemade workbenches!
A vice is one of the most important tools in any workshop. It allows you to expand the range of work and increase efficiency: thanks to them, the master’s hands are free, and the processing of parts is carried out on high level, and without outside help. Few people know that high-quality vices can be made with their own hands. You just need to show some ingenuity, skills and attentiveness. Next, about the intricacies of the process of creating a tool.
Vices are widely used in construction work as an element holding tool for various parts. The product in question is presented in the form of a base (body) with two clamping tubes, which allow you to firmly hold the part during milling, planing or drilling.
The vice is considered one of the main metalworking tools, because the quality of the parts will depend on the strength of fastening of the parts. final processing. In addition, such a product frees both hands, thus allowing you to carry out certain processes as accurately as possible.
Depending on the operational features, vices are divided into two categories: carpentry and metalworking. The latter, in turn, are divided into rotary and static. Static bench vices come in chair and parallel vices. The former do not have elements for permanent fastening and are easier to install/dismantle. The second ones differ more overall dimensions and are attached to work surface thoroughly.
Bench vices are designed primarily for working with fairly soft materials: plastic, wood, etc. They have high clamping jaws, which are either fixed statically or rotated on the base.
Machine tools are designed to work with hard materials, for example, metal. Their clamping jaws are less high for greater convenience and efficiency.
Making an instrument at home
To make a vice with your own hands, you need to prepare a certain set of materials and tools:
- Metal plates;
- Pins;
- Boards;
- Metal rod with a diameter of about 2 mm;
- Fasteners.
The minimum tools you will need are an electric drill, a sledgehammer, a file and a hacksaw. The easiest way to make a bench vise with your own hands is therefore presented below. step-by-step instruction to create just such a tool:
Advice. Vises made at home can be more effective and convenient due to the fact that it is quite possible to adapt them to carry out any specific operations.
If you plan to make a vice with your own hands, you should take into account some nuances that will determine the strength and service life of the tool:
- Material. Steel is most often used to create the product. It is advisable to choose a quality one, since the reliability and durability of the product, as well as its ability to firmly hold the part during processing, largely depend on this.
- Product size. If you plan to work primarily with small parts, it is better to give preference to a compact model: it will be more convenient and easier to work with.
- Thread pitch. Important point, which many often miss. The thread must be clear and small if spot work is planned.
- Sponges. It is important to pay attention to the size and shape of this element. The first indicator depends on the type of products that will be processed, the second - on the materials of the workpieces. If you plan to work only (mostly) with soft materials, it is better to make the jaws flat.
Advice. Since you're making your own vise, you can go beyond the standard model to make the best tool for your needs. Remember that with the help of an additional option you can make the vice more efficient in operation. For example, the presence in a product rotary mechanism Allows you to work with small parts.
That's all the subtleties that you should know about creating such a tool as a vice with your own hands. As you can see, this process is quite simple, and the result of the work will please even experienced craftsman. Good luck!
How to make a vice with your own hands: video
To secure parts during processing, special clamps are needed. It’s not difficult to make a vice with your own hands in different sizes; you will need drawings with dimensions, as well as technological sequence performance of work.
U home handyman in the arsenal there are usually many of the most different instruments. However, it is difficult to overestimate the role of the vice. They are used to install parts different sizes, so one workshop may have fixing devices various types and design. In metalworking they are mainly used hardware, and are widely used for wood processing wooden devices. Some craftsmen equip their work tables with homemade bench vices. It happens that you need a special fastening tool.
Vise elements
Clamping fixture must have several basic elements:
- the sponge is motionless;
- movable sponge;
- screw mechanism;
- transverse corner;
- movable jaw bracket;
- slider;
- main support (longitudinal angle).
Diagram of a homemade vice
The design of the clamp may be different. Sometimes even ordinary pliers are used as starting materials.
The most simple designs
It is customary to determine the following types of vices based on the characteristics of the device:
- massive stationary. These are usually placed on one of the corners of the workbench. In forges it is customary to install separate support installed on a strong foundation;
- swivel can be used from several sides. If necessary, the location of the jaws is oriented in different directions;
- machine ones are intended for use on drilling machines. Can be placed similar products on milling tables, planing or slotting equipment, as well as on welding lines;
- wedge ones differ in that the design has a unique appearance. Such clamps make it possible to develop fairly large pressing forces on the parts being fastened;
- Moxon's parallel designs. Their peculiarity is the use of not one, but several screw clamps. Long parts in different parts are fixed at different points;
- vertical ones are used for processing products that have a large height. The support of such a vice can be located at the bottom, and the processing area is located at the top.
Vice design development
Drawing of a homemade vice
If you want to make your own design yourself, you need to prepare drawings (sketches). You can take rolled angles, channels, and I-beams as a basis. IN industrial devices use cast iron. Small ones can be made from channel bars.
Do-it-yourselfers use different types wood or rolled metal.
Metal elements are used in wood products:
- screw. Use studs with standard threads. If a jack is available, then the product being developed will use a rectangular thread;
- screw. It is selected to match the existing clamping screw;
- fasteners are used to provide rigidity.
According to the design of the device, it can be:
- stationary vices, placed constantly in one place;
- portable (easily removable) vice. They can be quickly removed and stored in vehicle to carry out work at the repair site.
Step-by-step technologies for making wooden vices at home
Workbench design
At home, a workbench vice is made in the following sequence.
 | Wide parallel vise made of wood. The width of the jaws is 600 mm. |
 | The end part is lined with steel plates 4 mm thick. |
 | Blanks are cut from birch boards. The choice of birch is explained by the fact that this wood is characterized by high strength and hardness. |
 | The surface of the boards must be brought to perfection. Grinding tools are used. Finishing carried out with skins with grain 120...180 units. |
 | A board is glued to the end, which will serve as a stationary sponge. |
 | Additionally, the board is secured with M5 screws and washers with a diameter of 20 mm. |
 | Guide bushings for the rods will be made from birch bars 100x150x50 mm. |
 | Holes with a diameter of 20 mm are drilled into them. The rods themselves will be made from Ø 20 tubes. |
 | Lead screw M24 and guide rods. The length of the screw is 450 mm. |
 | Pre-assembly of guide units. |
 | To ensure that the movement is carried out strictly in a straight line, you need a long nut. But you can look for something like this for a long time. It's easier to do it differently. 1 – take a strip 180 mm long (width 33 mm, thickness 5 mm); 2 – screw two nuts onto the screw; 3 – set the distance between the nuts to 140 mm; 4 – weld two nuts to the strip. You will get a long support that will reliably move the moving part of the vice. |
 | During installation, the screw and guides are located under the table. In the photo you can see how the design of such a vice is assembled. |
 | The movable jaw rests on a metal support. |
 | In order for movement along the screw to occur, the washer must be welded. It will not allow the moving part to move along the screw surface. |
 | The handwheel is turned from a piece of wood. |
 | After turning, a fairly comfortable handle is obtained. |
 | A nut is pressed inside the flywheel. |
 | To fix the nut, it is filled with epoxy resin. |
 | To fix large parts, dowels with a diameter of 20 mm are machined. They can be installed on sponges as well as on a table. |
 | A Ø 16 mm hole is drilled in the handwheel. A wooden rod is inserted into it. This makes it more convenient to rotate and fix the parts. |
 | Finished design of a wooden vice. Several rows of holes for dowels are visible on the table. By rearranging the counter stops, you can fix workpieces of quite large width. |
Making a wooden benchtop vice
Another design is used in carpentry production. This type of fastener is installed on the table. They can be further strengthened using clamps.
 | Solid oak is used. It must be dried in a special mode, which includes more than just drying. The modes alternate with humidification. This will prevent the appearance of cracks. IN this design the upper part of the jaws is small in width (only 60 mm). |
 | The block is placed on the table and then marked. |
 | The block is planed. |
 | Individual parts are cut out. The best type of fastening is considered to be a dovetail. |
 | The fixed part is turned separately. |
 | On lathe The working screw is turned out. |
 | A rectangular thread is cut. |
 | A hole is drilled at the end into which the rod is inserted. It helps the screw rotate. |
 | A support plate is cut from a 6 mm thick strip. |
 | Holes large diameter drill, securing the part in the four-jaw chuck of the lathe. |
 | Finished plate with a hole Ø 20 mm. |
 | Making additional cuts. |
 | Ready product used for fixing workpieces when making small sculptures from soft wood. |
Simple wooden vice
 | Apple wood bars are used. |
 | The base is a board 30 mm thick, 100 mm wide and 200 mm long. |
 | Additionally, three more elements were sawn. They will serve as sponges and intermediate support. Their dimensions: width 100 mm; thickness 30 mm; height 40 mm. |
 | An eye bolt with M10 thread is used as a screw. |
 | Additionally, you will need M8x70 bolts with nuts. |
 | Holes for M8 bolts are drilled on two bars. |
 | Additionally, two bars are drilled for M10 threads. |
 | The nut is pressed in. Additionally, a plate is used to fix the screw. |
 | All that remains is to assemble the elements on the support board. |
 | M8 bolts are used to install bars. |
 | The fixed jaw can be installed in several positions. Therefore, parts of different widths can be fixed in a vice. |
 | The vice is ready. They can be used to work with wooden blanks. |
Making metal vices
Small Machine Vise
 | For manufacturing you need: a plate 8 mm thick. Its width is 80 mm and its length is 120 mm; 2 solid squares 20x20 mm; 2 isosceles corners with a shelf 20 mm; profile pipe 20X20x1.5 mm. |
 | The parts used are tried on the plate. |
 | The angles will serve as guides for the pusher in the vise. |
 | The length of the corners is 60 mm. The pipe has a length of 45 mm. |
 | An M10 nut must be installed inside the profile pipe. You will need to saw through the window; a nut will be installed in this window; the nut must be welded in place. |
 | To make wine, a Ø 10 mm rod was used, with an M10 thread cut into it. |
 | Having secured the profile pipe in a vice, make a cut for the nut. |
 | The nut is tried on in place. |
 | You need to file two corners of the nut, then it will fit into the formed groove. |
 | The nut is installed in place. It needs to be boiled. A hole is pre-drilled with reverse side, the back side of the nut will be welded through it. |
 | Welding is done from above. |
 | Then the reverse side is also boiled. |
 | The surface of all parts is sanded. |
 | A Ø 10 mm hole is drilled in a plate 50x30x6 mm. |
 | A notch is cut into the squares. It will fix the parts secured in a vice. |
 | The prepared parts are laid out on the workbench. The device will be assembled. |
 | The fixed jaw is welded. Having installed the profile pipe as the determining direction, the corners are welded. The stroke of the movable jaw will be 30 mm. |
 | A plate 20 mm wide needs to be welded on top. It will limit vertical movement. You will need to attach the profile pipe to the movable jaw. |
 | Part of the welding work has been completed. The movement of moving elements is checked. |
 | A nut is welded to the screw. It will not allow it to move along the axis. The plate is located at the back. It also must be rigidly fixed to the supporting surface of the vice. |
 | The parts are adjusted according to location. |
 | By welding the plate, a small vice is obtained. |
 | You can carry out a trial use by securing the vice on the table. |
 | The parts are secured securely. |
If you go into a store and look at the cost of a bench vise with a jaw width of 120mm or more, it becomes kind of sad...
After looking at the metal that I have in stock at the dacha, I decided to spend the day on self-production bench vice.
The material I looked for for making a vice:
Iron sheet for the base of a vice, 4mm thick
- profile square pipe 50mm with wall thickness 4mm
- corner 60mm with wall thickness 5mm
- corner 75mm with wall thickness 8mm
- strip 10mm thick
- threaded rod 20mm
- long nut 20mm
The plate for the base of the vice was 200x160mm in size.
I decided to cut the same one and drill evenly holes with a diameter of 8mm in one of the plates spot welding I fastened these two plates together.
Cleaned up the welding areas:
I drew a central line in the center of the plate and along the edges of it I also drew a pair of lines 20mm wide - the thickness of the pin.
I installed the long nut into which the stud will be screwed onto a spacer - a piece of 10mm thick strip to which I welded this nut.
I installed the nut on the spacer in the center of the drawn line and screwed the pin into it and aligned it in the center.
After that, I welded the pad with the nut to the base plate and cleaned it.
A 60mm corner with a wall thickness of 5mm and a length of 200mm will be used as sidewalls.
I installed them to see what it would look like:
Here general form parts for bench vice:
Made with a grinder in a 50x50mm profile pipe longitudinal groove slightly wider than a welded stand with a nut.
At the edge of this pipe I left an unsawed part equal to the width of the future jaws.
The corners surrounding the profile pipe were tacked to the base sheet.
Between these corners I placed a plate 50mm wide and 10mm thick. In order for the profile pipe to move normally, I made a spacer between this plate on top and the profile pipe itself.
As a spacer I used a couple of hacksaw blades for metal.
After that, I welded the plate along its entire length. The result was a kind of box:
Since the gap between the plate and the corners turned out to be quite large, after welding the plate on top, I cut off the tacks and welded the same plate from the inside.
Since the profile pipe has semicircular edges, the welding seam from the inside does not interfere with the movement of the profile pipe.
After that, the resulting box was cleaned:
As a base for the jaws of the vice, I used a thicker corner of 75mm and a wall thickness of 8mm. The width of future sponges will be 150mm.
Having installed the corners at the future fastening points, I cut them slightly at a bevel.
A piece of strip 10mm thick will be used as the sponges themselves.
The sponges will have a size of: 150x50x10mm.
Having attached these future jaws to my corners, I secured them with dog-shaped pliers and drilled 4.2mm holes through them.
Then I cut 5mm threads in the corners, and drilled holes in the jaws with a 5.1mm drill and made a countersink for countersunk.
I screwed bolts into the cut threads and screwed two nuts on the back side, which I then scalded by welding. The result was some kind of elongated 5mm thread.
I made holes for attaching the jaws to the corners in the center of the jaws - 25mm from the vertical line and 30mm from the edges.
At the end of the profile pipe, where in the future the knob will be attached to the stud, I initially planned to weld a square pad.
Then I decided to weld a piece of corner along the edges of the pipe, in which I would then cut a thread and not weld this area, but fasten it with screws.
This will allow me to disassemble the vice later if necessary.
Having placed the corner with the future jaws on this part, I made bevels of the corner relative to the protruding welded corners.
In the future, to strengthen the sponges with inside The corners will be welded with braces and the whole thing will be welded with a 4mm thick plate.
To strengthen the upper part of the vice, where there is room for the anvil, I put another plate 8mm thick (like the corner of the jaws) and a width equal to the total width of the box.
Thus, if in the future you have to use the anvil for its intended purpose, then the entire load will be placed on the vertical ribs of the side corners.
Having welded the reinforcing braces, I covered the corners of the jaws with a 4mm thick plate and cleaned everything with a grinder and then with a 40-grit emery wheel.
Yes, for welding...
I cooked with the Forsazh-161 apparatus
Electrode - MR-3S 3mm
Welding current is about 110A.
When scalding the corners with a 4mm plate, I used the same electrodes, only at a current of about 80A.
I cut the slot in the profile pipe in place so that this cut does not interfere with the movement of the pipe relative to the welded area with the nut.
So that nothing sticks.
It is very difficult to hold a metal workpiece with your hands and process it at the same time; in this case, we recommend making machine vice with your own hands. If you need to rigidly fix a part at an angle, you won’t envy the master at all. For such work, a vice is simply necessary. But most manufacturers do not include accessories, which automatically increases the cost of the equipment. Factory milling vices are relatively inexpensive and, nevertheless, some craftsmen manage to make homemade analogues with their own hands.
Corrugations on jaws reduce the supporting surface area and increase the holding force therefore, it is advisable to have them on a bench vice. But on drilling machines, the force is applied differently, so you can do without corrugations. But if you really want, you can make longitudinal corrugations (along the long side) and a couple of transverse ones to hold round parts. The corrugations are made using an angle grinder and a guide pressed with clamps to the jaws. Good jaws for drilling vices can be made from a coarse file. Pieces of file can be glued to the vice on epoxy resin with the addition of metal dust (aluminum powder). An important addition to the drill vise jaws is a step
Do-it-yourself machine vice video
Making a rotary vice with your own hands
To make a rotary vice with your own hands, you need skills in metalworking, welding and appropriate equipment. Homemade device made by hand from stainless steel.
- A clamp is made that will hold a homemade vice on the workbench.
- We cut out two steel plates with our own hands, in which we drill 3 holes for the guides. We weld the carriage and assemble the structure: insert a threaded pin into the middle hole, and smooth pins along the edges - guides for the pressure jaw. We attach a handle to the free end of the screw pin for ease of control.
- We screw the fixed jaw onto the bolts with our own hands, recess the bolt heads into the tangent surface, and place the nuts on the outside. To make a holder for the pressure jaw, we use welding. The holder is a corner with three triangular stiffeners. The horizontal part of the holder is bolted to the carriage. We also fix the sponge itself with bolts. This will allow you to change the jaws in the future, for example, you can make additional ones from a corner for fixing pipes.
- We make a hinge with our own hands to change the position of the workpiece. To do this again you will have to use welding machine. The position is secured using a threaded pin and a pair of nuts.
