Water pipes      06/15/2019

How to wash pf 115 paint from metal. How to remove paint? The most efficient ways. Removing paint in different ways

If you decide to paint the car with PF 115 paint, be patient and take a few tools. Remember that you should not apply the substance to the surface without carefully preparing it. In addition, when you open the can, you may find that the paint is too thick - then you will have to dilute it. The choice of solvent must be taken very carefully - the wrong thinner can not only bring no result, but also ruin the paint.

What is PF 115

PF 115 is an alkyd enamel intended for painting various surfaces. One of its advantages is that it can be bought in a regular store. building materials for ridiculous money. Many people use it for painting wooden products and plastered walls - so why not spruce up your car with pF 115? The composition of enamel PF 115 includes the following components:

  • Alkyd varnish;
  • Solvents;
  • Coloring pigments;
  • Pentaphthalic varnish - a thick solution of resin with vegetable oils, rosin and glycerin.

After the varnish is ready, it is mixed in equal proportions with a solvent - and the finished alkyd enamel PF 115 is obtained.

How PF 115 alkyd enamel differs from acrylic paints

Novice car enthusiasts believe that there is nothing wrong with tidying up the details of the "iron horse" using acrylic paint. Of course, such car enamels are very popular in Lately, and all thanks to the saturation of colors and high uniformity. In addition, acrylic paint does not need to be varnished, and if it thickens, then it is enough to dilute it cold water. The disadvantages of this enamel are its low covering ability (the paint must be applied in several layers) and high cost. It is much better to use PF 115 alkyd car enamel - it perfectly paints the surface in one layer and has a low price.


Universal enamel

In addition, PF 115 is highly elastic and long term services. In addition, such enamel reliably protects the surface of the car from corrosion, and even a novice driver knows that rust is the main enemy of the “iron horse”. By the way, if the first signs of corrosion appear on your car, take action immediately. If you do nothing, you risk throwing a huge amount of money on car repairs.

In addition, such alkyd enamel is resistant to temperature changes. Due to our climate, this feature of the substance is extremely relevant. Having painted the PF 115 car, you can be sure that it will not peel off at the first frost.

Due to the fact that PF 115 enamel withstands wet cleaning, you can safely wash your car with conventional chemicals. Of course, it is worth using sparing products - they not only clean the surface of the car with high quality, but also do not leave scratches. After visiting the car wash, the enamel will not peel off, and the vehicle will look just great.

How to paint a car with PF 115 enamel

Painting a car is a very responsible matter, so take it very seriously.

  • Preparation for work. First of all, clean the surface of the machine from dust. If you start applying enamel to a dirty car, it will look extremely unpresentable.
  • Sanding. After getting rid of road dust and rust, process the car sandpaper. For thorough sanding, fine-grained sandpaper is perfect for you - coarser paper can severely damage the surface of the car. If the coating does not become very smooth, use drying oil.

Stages of car painting
  • Primer. After making sure that there are no tubercles and scratches left on the surface of the car, feel free to proceed with the primer. Many motorists choose a primer in sprayers, and not in jars - this way the substance is better applied and more securely fixed. In most cases, one layer of soil is sufficient. Remember that the primer must dry well, so wait ten to fifteen minutes and apply alkyd enamel.
  • Dilution of paint. Remember that in no case should you use water that is diluted acrylic enamel. It is much more reasonable to use white spirit - this is the solvent used by the manufacturers of PF 115 themselves. Please note that this thinner should be stored in a tightly closed container away from sunlight. Remember that this substance is gasoline, so do not open and pour it near a source of heat or ignition.

How to work with white spirit solvent

Before diluting PF 115 with this substance, put on gloves. In addition, you must be in a well-ventilated area. Some novice car enthusiasts believe that it is possible to paint a car on the street, and then wonder why the enamel lies unevenly. The thing is that the natural level of moisture and weathering do not contribute to painting a car. It is much better to choose a special box for these purposes. Remember that the solvent has a negative effect on the human body.

  • If the concentration of white spirit vapor is higher than normal, then you will get a headache and irritation will appear in the eyes.
  • Do not allow paint thinner to enter the respiratory tract - it can cause pulmonary edema or bronchopneumonia.
  • If white spirit enters the stomach, it will corrode it. In addition, after the diluent has been washed out of the stomach, its vapors will remain in the nasal cavity for four to five days.

If you do everything right, then after twenty-four hours the PF 115 enamel will dry completely. Then your car will have a rich color and glossy shine.

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The better to dilute the paint pf 115

Surely, many have encountered a problem when the paint, after a long sludge, turns into a thick paste, as in the photo, which is simply impossible to work with. In this case, you need to add a solvent, but which one to choose? After all, there are a lot of them on the shelves of stores, and the instructions for use are replete with incomprehensible abbreviations and numbers.

In this article, we will try not only to answer the question of how to dilute pf 115 paint, but also to figure out why there are so many solvents and some turn the paint off, while others dissolve it. After all, it is one thing to simply remember what is diluted with what, and quite another to understand why this happens.

Solvent types

There is no universal solvent that would suit any paint. Here, as in medicine, the rule of dissolution of like with like applies. Each type of paint has a certain base and it is with it that the reagents must come into contact.

Conventionally, all solvents can be divided into three groups:

  1. Oil.
  2. Organic.
  3. Chemical.

Petroleum solvents include:

  • Petrol.
  • Solvent.
  • White Spirit.
  • Orthoxylol.

They are used most often for oil paints and varnishes.

Organic solvents:

  • Acetone.
  • Xylene.

They are used to dilute most types of paints and rarely conflict with the main paint component.

Chemical solvents most often have a digital marking indicating their fat content:

Important! The higher the number, the fatter the solvent and the longer the paint will dry.

Chemical solvents are used to dissolve nitro enamels and varnishes on the same basis. But let's move on to the main issue of our article, namely, how to dilute the paint.

Paints and their solvents

So, what are solvents for, and in what cases it is necessary to use them:

  1. If the paint has thickened and is difficult to apply with a brush or roller.
  2. When the paint has dried and turned into a monolith, then it must be filled with a solvent and left closed for several days.
  3. If the spray gun (see Choosing a spray gun for painting) does not pick up the paint and spits it out.
  4. When the coating needs to be given additional qualities, which will be discussed below.
  5. If the paint rolls off the surface and does not contact the substrate.
  6. Solvents are also used to degrease the surface before painting.

Serebryanka

How to dilute silver for painting?

Aluminum powder, or in the common people - silver, is sold in two forms:

  1. Powder to be dissolved.
  2. Ready mix.

The basis for this paint is drying oil, which is made from vegetable oil with the addition of additives. It is the additives that make this material durable and at the same time completely harmless when dried.

But even ready-to-use silverfish can be very thick, and white spirit or organic xylene is used to dilute it.

bituminous paints

How to dilute rubber paint, or rather bituminous enamel:

  • Rubber, like bitumen, is a product of petroleum refining, which means that any form of petroleum solvents is suitable for such paints.
  • If you try to add any chemical solvent to the mastic, you can observe the coagulation process when the paint begins to thicken and break up into components.

Important! More often bituminous paints are used for anti-corrosion protection and are applied in a thick form. It is necessary to dilute such paint only when it has turned into a monolith.

Acrylic

How to dilute water-based paint?

The answer to this question lies in the name itself - it acts as a solvent plain water. This is what makes acrylic paint so popular, it has no chemical ingredients, which means it is completely safe and environmentally friendly.

  • Another name for this paint is water dispersion. Some unscrupulous manufacturers often play with these names, giving out exactly the same composition for different brands of paint.
  • Therefore, the questions of how to dilute water-based paint and how to dilute water-dispersion paint have one answer - with water and only water.

Advice! Before diluting the water-based paint, make sure that there are no impurities in the water, as they can completely change the color of the dye. This is especially true of technical water, which often contains elements of rust.

Oil paints

How can you dilute the enamel paint on oil based? The main type of solvent for PF enamel is White spirit, but any other oil-based ones are also suitable.

It should be noted that modern paints PF have in their composition many additional additives that increase the service life of the coating and improve adhesion. In this regard, enamels are quite amenable to dilution with chemical solvents, but they must be mixed very carefully and in small quantities.

An interesting fact is that depending on how the PF enamel is diluted, its qualitative characteristics change significantly. To understand all the interaction processes, we present a small table.

Nitro paint

How to dilute nitro-based metallic paint?

All paints that have the word "nitro" or the abbreviation NC in the name are chemical, and, therefore, dissolve with identical solvents.

Enamel NC has several characteristic features that distinguish it from other types of paints:

  1. Dries quickly even at low temperatures.
  2. Creates a thin film on the surface.
  3. Depending on the fat content of the solvent, you can adjust the gloss and gloss of the paint.
  4. The price of nitro paints in cans is lower than on PF enamel.

In addition, nitro paints are available in several types:

  • Banks.
  • Aerosol cans.
  • permanent markers.

This variety is very convenient, since the quick drying of the paint does not allow you to keep the jar open for a long time.

Important! When painting with your own hands from a spray can, you must first shake it up for several minutes. Otherwise, you can release all the pressure from it, while the paint remains unused.

And you can learn more about the process of working with spray paint by watching the video in this article.

Facade paints

How to dilute facade paint?

It is very difficult to answer this question unambiguously, since facade paints are a generalized name, and they can consist of different components:

  • Acrylic.
  • Silicone.
  • Polymer.
  • Silicate, or liquid glass.

As a rule, each type of facade paint is accompanied by its own solvent, which interacts with the active substance and improves the final quality of the coating. Therefore, in order not to spoil the paint, you need to carefully read the instructions for use, which are on each bank.

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Repeatedly in preparation for painting the surface, it is found that the consistency of the coloring material does not correspond to the working condition. What should be done in this case? Is there a way out or is it better to buy a new can of paint? Most often, it is necessary to purchase a solvent for PF 115 paint and add it to the composition. But, you need to figure out how to choose the right one from all the abundance present in construction stores solvents for alkyd paints. This will be discussed in this article.

Do not flatter yourself and look for a universal solvent. There is no such thing. For each type of colorant there are corresponding solvents. How to figure it out? The main rule should be remembered: the bases of the coloring matter and the solvent must match.

Basically, solvents are divided into the following types:

  • Oil-based (gasoline, solvent, white spirit, orthoxirol). Most often they are used to dissolve oil-based paints and varnishes.

  • On organic components (acetone, xylene). The most common types of solvents, as they rarely violate the structure of the coloring matter.

  • with chemical additives. Solvents of this type are classified by marking: P-4, 646, 647, 650.

It should be taken into account that what more number in the marking, the higher the degree of fat content, which means that the paint will dry much longer.

Main characteristics

Solvents for paint PF 115 are necessary in order to dilute the coloring materials to the desired consistency for application to the surface. It should be such that when stained in any way, the result should be a uniform and optimal thickness layer. Another area of ​​application of solvents is its use when performing preparatory work to degrease the surface.

On the video: what is the difference between solvents and thinners.

Effect of solvents on paint formulations:

The opinion of consumers who believe that a solvent is needed only to dilute the paint and does not affect the quality of the painted surface is erroneous. This is wrong. Solvents significantly affect the forming film of the coloring pigment. For example, if the dilution was done incorrectly and the solvent is not suitable for the type of paint, then all this will show up when staining. You can get the following defects:

  • Poor paint flow.
  • The formation of whitish streaks and small bubbles on the surface of the film, which burst during the drying process and minicraters form.
  • Formation of a precipitate that cannot be diluted.

All of these defects cannot be corrected.

Advantages of solvents for alkyd paints

Most often, compounds such as white spirit and solvent are used to dilute alkyd paint.

What other composition can be used so that PF 115 paint can be diluted with an improvement in its properties? A special solvent for alkyd enamels is suitable.

The special composition for dissolving enamels PF-115, which is produced by Mendeleev, is quite complex. It meets all modern requirements:

  • It has a high degree of dissolving power.
  • The weathering speed is optimal.
  • Almost no negative effects on the human body.

When compared with other types of thinners, the benefits are obvious. These include:

  • High degree of economy. This positive factor caused by the addition of substances that affect the formation of low-viscosity solutions. It is this property that allows you to reduce consumption by a quarter.
  • Optimal drying time. This is achieved by adding ingredients that have different degrees of volatility. That is why the drying time of the applied layer is optimal in order to perform uniform coloring. In addition, it eliminates the appearance of uneven gloss, shagreen, loss of gloss, bubbles, and so on.
  • Positive effect on the flow of the coating material. The components that are part of the solvent reduce the degree of tension of the enamel layer. When the paint material is diluted with this substance, the enamel is easy to apply, it droops well into the surface, the layer is quite uniform.

Impact on consumer health

Before diluting alkyd paint solvent for enamel PF 115, let's figure out how it affects human health. The desire of firms that are engaged in the production of such compounds is to reduce the amount of harmful components. The maximum permissible concentration of vapors in the air during the performance of work determines the harmfulness of the substance. The lower it is, the more dangerous substance. For solvents of well-known companies, MPC is higher. They have a distinctive odor that dissipates fairly quickly.

The use of white spirit

Before diluting PF-115 enamels with white spirit, you need to think about safety measures.

It is necessary to protect the skin of the hands with gloves. The room must be well ventilated. Many believe that in order to avoid negative impact on the human body, work is best done on outdoors. But, in this case, the result will not always please. Under such conditions, the uniformity of the layer will be difficult to achieve. For a quality result, it is better to prepare a suitable room.

Consider the main factors of the negative impact of white spirit vapor on the human body:

  • An increased concentration of white spirit vapors in the room will cause headache and irritation of the eyeball.
  • Inhalation of vapors may cause pulmonary edema or bronchopneumonia.
  • An increased concentration of vapors can cause them to enter the stomach. Even if timely washing is done, the vapors will disappear only after 4 to 5 days.

Vapors of white spirit are very dangerous for human health. When working with it, observe all precautions.

So, the use of PF-115 paint, how it can be diluted, is up to consumers to decide. The main thing is to use the diluent correctly. By adding composition to the enamel PF 115 in accordance, we avoid all the troubles and exclude the possibility of any defects.

Difference in solvents (1 video)

VIDEO ON THE TOPIC:

Working for several years as the chief technologist of LLC PO Khimtek, I repeatedly had to communicate with consumers of paint and varnish products, advise them in case of problems with the application and, to be honest, deal with claims. Communicating with consumers, I noticed that not always the problems that arise with the consumer are caused by the quality of the applied LKM. If LMB does not meet the requirements of regulatory documentation, then everything is clear here - it must be immediately returned to the manufacturer. But very often the problems that consumers have when using paintwork , are caused by ignorance of their properties and features, the rules for preparing the surface for painting, preparing the material for painting, violation of painting conditions, etc. Moreover, these are not some high matters and secret knowledge from the field of chemistry and technology. paintwork but the most elementary things. And it looks all the more strange when this lack of knowledge, and sometimes even a clear disregard for them, comes from experienced production workers, specialists with paint and varnish education, experienced painters. On the other hand, the set of indicators described in GOST or TU in the quality certificate does not cover the entire range of properties of characteristics and features. LKM.

The most typical, frequently encountered problem that consumers face when using paints and varnishes can be expressed in one short phrase: "Material does not dry." The answer question immediately arises - “How does it not dry out?” The concept of “does not dry” in different people causes completely different associations - for example, the painted surface sticks after the drying time has elapsed - this is the same "does not dry." But why doesn't it dry? If the primer or enamel does not dry out within the time specified in the regulatory documentation, subject to the painting conditions - temperature regime, humidity, then the problem is really in the quality paintwork . But, for example, if this material is applied in winter time in an unheated room at a temperature of +5 ° C, then the problem is not in the quality of the material, but in non-compliance with the temperature regime. paintwork , which has a drying time of 24 hours at +20°C, will not be able to dry at a lower temperature in the same time. Also important point is the humidity at which the material dries. It must be taken into account that when high humidity(more than 85%) the material dries longer. In this case, for faster drying of paintwork materials, it is necessary to ensure the flow of warm, dry air into the room where the painting or drying of the painted product takes place - for example, use heat guns or heat exchangers. Or be patient.

Another variant of this problem is also possible, when the consumer assures thatpaintwork“does not dry” - you come to understand and see this picture: you touch the painted surface and do not feel the effect of sticking, surface layer coating completely dry. But the enamel is applied in a very thick layer and when pressed, the coating is crushed, it is soft. What happened? As a rule, when applying the material in a thick layer, upper layer dries in the allotted time, forming a continuous film, which prevents the release of solvent vapors from the thickness of the coating into the air working area. As a result, under the top layer of the cured coating remained uncured , and the coating itself, when pressed, sags and seems soft and “not dry”. What to do to avoid this problem? Either apply the material in a thinner layer, or, if it is necessary to obtain a thick coating, apply paintwork materials in several layers with obligatory interlayer drying. By the way, a similar problem may arise in the case of painting an uneven, inhomogeneous surface - in places of welding seams, junctions of planes, in the presence of grooves, depressions and dents - i.e. where the thickness of the paint layer also naturally changes upwards.

The next fairly common problem is cracking of the coating after drying. Example - one shipyard painted deck superstructures on a ship. The enamel dried, and some time later, the coating began to crack. When identifying the causes of this phenomenon, the following was found out: painting was carried out on metal surfaces, in hot weather at a temperature of more than +30 ° C, with undiluted enamel, using brushes and rollers. The thickness of the dried enamel layer in easily accessible for painting (and for sunlight) was 200-400 microns, and in hard-to-reach places - no more than 100 microns. Where direct sunlight fell on the thick-layer coating, cracking occurred, and in shady places that were difficult to reach for painting, the coating of the same enamel, but of a smaller thickness, remained intact. The reason is obvious - high temperature the top layer of enamel dried very quickly and “locked” the solvent, which is part of the paintwork, in the thickness of the coating. Since the painted surface was metallic, it heated up, the residual solvent boiled in the thickness of the coating, and under its pressure cracking of the upper layer occurred (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1 - Cracking of a thick coating.

Solventevaporated, the coating dried up, but its integrity was violated. Where there is no contact with sunbeams the drying mode was more gentle (thinner coating layer, lower temperature), and the integrity of the coating was not compromised. Conclusion - again, apply the material in a thinner layer (with dilution to the working viscosity with a solvent), and if necessary to obtain a thick coating, apply paintwork materials in several layers with obligatory interlayer drying.

Another one typical problem- consumer buys, For example, , conducts incoming control in the laboratory, paints the model of the product there - everything is in order, then launches the enamel into production, paints the pre-primed metal surface and gets a problem - after drying, the enamel peels off the surface with a “stocking”. With a step-by-step study of the painting process, the following is found out - in production, before applying enamel, the primed surface is wiped with a rag soaked in (so to speak, control degreasing and dedusting), and then immediately paint(when painting the model of the product, this stage was absent). But enamels based on polyvinylchloride chlorinated resin ( , , etc.) are not compatible with aliphatic hydrocarbons - . The enamel film dried up without contact with the primed substrate, so the coating began to lag behind the surface in the form of a film. The solution is simple - for degreasing the surface it is better to use , included in the applied paintwork material. In this case it would fit , , butyl acetate or mixed solvents - , or

A characteristic problem is the runoff of paintwork materials from a vertical or inclined surface during painting. In most cases, the cause is an incorrectly selected working viscosity of the material or an excessive thickness of the paint layer, when the paintwork material begins to flow from the surface under its own weight. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to correctly select the working viscosity of paintwork materials, depending on the method of application, the distance from the spray nozzle to the object being painted (for pneumatic and airless painting), the pressure under which the spray of the paintwork material is supplied. With the right combination of these parameters, the problem of runoff becomes completely solvable.

If we are already talking about the methods of applying paintwork materials, then it is useful to recall another problem that arises when applying the material in such a way as spraying, especially pneumatic spraying - this is “chalking”. The essence of the problem is that after application by pneumatic spraying and drying of paintwork materials, if you draw a “dusty” trace from the paint on the hand, and on the painted surface - a trace from the hand. When control coloring from the arbitration sample (and different ways- in bulk, with a brush, pneumatic spraying, with dilution to the working viscosity and without it, in layers of various thicknesses) there is no “chalking” effect. The reason for this phenomenon is still the same - the distance from the spray gun to the surface to be painted is incorrectly selected (Fig. 2).


Rice. 2 - Defect "overexposure" when painting from a long distance.

The painter painted from a long distance (in order to capture a large area of ​​the painted surface), the working viscosity during pneumatic spraying is in the range of 18 - 22 s; the paint, flying out of the nozzle in the form of drops, in the process of overcoming this distance loses a significant amount of solvent (which evaporates corny) and reaches the surface not as drops of liquid paintwork materials, but as almost dried clots that stick to the surface without spreading and without forming a continuous homogeneous coatings. Such a defect painters call "overexposure". It is these dried and fragile paint particles that give the appearance of “chalking”.

In general, problems with coatings can arise where they are not expected, for example, when preparing a material for painting. Example - customer purchased with a high solids content and, as is often the case in such cases, exhibiting the property of thixotropy (the ability to reduce viscosity and show fluidity when external shear forces are applied - for example, during mixing). Carries out an entrance control, and declares that liquid, does not meet the requirements of technical specifications in terms of "conditional viscosity". We check the arbitration sample - everything is in order, the viscosity is normal. We are interested in the consumer whether he mixed the primer before checking - the answer is “yes, with a mechanical hand mixer”. There is nothing to do but go. We arrive at the enterprise, they show us a drum with a primer, they show us the same “mechanical hand mixer”. It turns out that this is an ordinary low-speed screwdriver with a nozzle 30 - 35 cm long. And the height of the drum with products is at least half a meter, i.e. this mixer is immersed at best to the middle of the drum and certainly does not mix the products in the container throughout the entire volume. Since the primer is high in solids, a partial separation naturally occurred and the pigment phase with some of the binder went lower, and in the subsurface layer the viscosity (and solids) decreased. At the same time, there is no sediment at the bottom of the container. Fortunately, he brought with him a normal mechanical stirrer with a nozzle of the required length, and after proper mixing, the check showed full compliance with the value of the relative viscosity declared in the quality certificate. The problem is the lack of the ability to properly mix paintwork materials in a container. First, it is necessary to thoroughly mix the bottom layer with rotational rotation, especially in the case of the formation of pigment sediment on the bottom of the container, and then, without stopping rotation, mix the contents of the container throughout its entire volume with reciprocating movements (up and down) (Fig. 3).


Fig. 3 - Proper mixing of paintwork materials in a container.

Of course, mixing is preferably carried out with a high-speed manual mechanical mixer, for example, a drill with a whisk attachment.

I will add that after mixing in containers, especially after long-term storage, it must be filtered.

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